Israel & the Palestinian Territories · 2018-05-24 · SEA Dead Sea Sea of Galilee Ha ifa JERUSALEM...

Israel & the Palestinian

Territories

Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Dan Savery Raz, Jenny Walker

p195

p231& Golan

p156Sea of Galilee

Lower Galilee &

West Bank

Jerusalem p112

p46The Dead Sea

p297

Jaffa (Yafo)Tel Aviv-

p261

Upper Galilee

The GazaStripp292

North CoastHaifa & the

(Jordan)Petra

The Negev p315

p341

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Israel & the Palestinian Territories . . . 4Israel & the Palestinian Territories Map . . . . . . . . . .6Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Top 20 . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . .21Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Shabbat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Crossing Borders . . . . . . 36Travel with Children . . . . 40Regions at a Glance . . . . 42

JERUSALEM . . . . . . . 46Around Jerusalem . . . . 109Abu Ghosh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Latrun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Neot Kedumim . . . . . . . . . 110Soreq Cave . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park . . . . . . . . . . .111

TEL AVIV- JAFFA (YAFO) . . . . . .112Around Tel Aviv . . . . . . . .151Gush Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Herzliya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Holon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152

Netanya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Ramla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

HAIFA & THE NORTH COAST . . . . 156Haifa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Daliyat Al Karmel . . . . . . . 176Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Ein Hod & Ayn Hawd . . . . 177Atlit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Zichron Ya’akov . . . . . . . . . 180Mey Kedem . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Caesarea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Akko (Acre) . . . . . . . . . . . . 185

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Contents

Kibbutz Lohamei HaGeta’ot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Nahariya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

LOWER GALILEE & SEA OF GALILEE . . . 195Nazareth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Kafr Kana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Tzipori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Mt Tabor Area . . . . . . . . . .205Jezreel & Beit She’an Valleys . . . . . . . . . .209Tiberias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Sea of Galilee . . . . . . . . 219Northwestern Shore . . . . 219Eastern Shore . . . . . . . . . . 228Southwestern Shore . . . .230

UPPER GALILEE & GOLAN . . . . . . . . . . . 231Upper Galilee . . . . . . . . 233Tsfat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Mt Meron Area . . . . . . . . . 242Rosh Pina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Hula Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Galilee Panhandle . . . . . . 247Golan Heights . . . . . . . . 252Katzrin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Southern Golan . . . . . . . . 254Central Golan . . . . . . . . . . 255Northern Golan . . . . . . . . . 258

WEST BANK . . . . . . . 261Bethlehem . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Ramallah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Taybeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278Jericho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Hebron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Nablus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Jenin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290

THE GAZA STRIP . . .292

THE DEAD SEA . . . . 297Ein Gedi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300Northwestern Coast . . . .306Masada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Ein Bokek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311Sodom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Neot HaKikar . . . . . . . . . . 313

THE NEGEV . . . . . . . 315Be’er Sheva . . . . . . . . . . . .317Negev Highlands . . . . . . . .319Mitzpe Ramon . . . . . . . . . 323The Arava . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Eilat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332

PETRA . . . . . . . . . . . 341The Ancient City . . . . . . . . 343Wadi Musa . . . . . . . . . . . .346Siq Al Barid (Little Petra) . . . . . . . . . . . 353

Israel & the Palestinian Territories Today . . . . . . 356

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358

People of Israel & the Palestinian Territories . . . . . . . . . . . 374

Regional Food . . . . . . . . 380

Daily Life . . . . . . . . . . . . 385

Government & Politics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388

Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392

Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396

Environment . . . . . . . . . 402

Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . 408

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 411

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 421

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 429

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 446

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESAl Haram Ash Sharif/ Temple Mount 3D illustration . . . . . . . 56

Religious Sites . . . . . 223

Petra Walking Tour 3D illustration . . . . . . 350

Itineraries

EGYPT

JORDAN

SYRIA

LEBANON

SAUDIARABIA

Mt Carmel

MEDITERRANEANSEA

DeadSea

Sea ofGalilee

Haifa

JERUSALEM

Masada

Nazareth

Dead Sea

JaffaTel Aviv

Caesarea

Akko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

Beit She’an

EGYPT

JORDAN

SYRIA

LEBANON

SAUDIARABIA

Mt Carmel

MEDITERRANEANSEA

DeadSea

Sea ofGalilee

Haifa

JERUSALEM

Masada

Nazareth

Dead Sea

Tel Aviv

Caesarea

Akko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

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Best of Israel

A whirlwind introduction to Israel’s most important historical, religious and natural sights.

Spend your first four days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days wan-dering the alleys of the Old City, exploring the Western Wall and the adjacent Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif, and following the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Break out your swimsuit and hiking shoes for a full-day excursion down to the Dead Sea and up the storied stronghold of Masada. Next, head to the Mediter-ranean coast for three days around Tel Aviv, dividing your time between strolling, cycling, lounging on the beach, fine dining and watching the world go by. Next, head up the coast for a peek at Roman-era Caesarea before pushing on to Haifa. Check out the views from atop Mt Carmel and the Baha’i Gardens before a day trip to the walled city of Akko and the grottoes of Rosh HaNikra. After a day in Nazareth, concluded with a tongue-tingling ‘fusion’ dinner, head to Tiberias for a day exploring the storied shores of the Sea of Galilee. On the drive back to Jerusalem, stop at the Roman ruins in Beit She’an.

2 WEEKS

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Explore the best Israel has to offer from the Lebanese border to the Red Sea.After four or five days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days exploring

the Old City and a half-day visit to the Israel Museum, take a trip down to the wondrous caves at Beit Guvrin–Maresha National Park, stopping at a winery on the way. Next, stir it up in Tel Aviv for a few days, strolling along the beachfront promenade to historic Jaffa, biking along the Yarkon River and working on your Mediterranean tan. On your way north to Haifa, stop at the Roman ruins of Caesarea and the quaint old town of Zichron Ya’akov, famed for its vintage winery. After touring Haifa’s sublime Baha’i Gardens, visit Mt Carmel and the Druze village of Daliyat Al Karmel. The next day, continue north to Akko, with its enchanting mixture of Crusader ruins and Ottoman relics. Next, go as far north as politics permit, to the subterranean grottoes of Rosh HaNikra, before heading inland for a couple of days in Nazareth, exploring Christian sites and dining on traditional Arab delicacies and East-West fusion dishes. Based in Tiberias for a couple of days, relax around the Sea of Galilee, combining ancient synagogues and Christian sites with quiet beaches and, perhaps, white-water rafting on the Jordan River. Loop east to the Golan Heights, visiting the hilltop ruins of Gamla, the Golan Archaeological Museum in Katzrin and towering Nimrod For-tress. Circle west via the lush vegetation of Banias Nature Reserve to the wetlands of the Hula Valley, beloved by migrating birds; the quaint, cobbled streets of Rosh Pina; and Tsfat, suffused with the spirituality of the Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism). Finally, head south through the Jordan Valley, strolling the colonnaded Roman thoroughfares of Beit She’an. After a starlit night on the shores of the Dead Sea, rise early to catch the sunrise from high atop Masada. Continue south into the Negev Desert for a day or two around Mitzpe Ramon, including a hike into Makhtesh Ramon. The last stop, for a spot of sea, sun and snorkelling, is Eilat.

4 WEEKS

#÷

SAUDIARABIA

JORDAN

EGYPT

LEBANON

SYRIA

M E D I T E R R A N E A NS E A

G U L F O FS U E Z

SuezCanal

Mt Carmel

Tel AvivJaffa

JERUSALEMMasada

Dead Sea

Mitzpe RamonMakhtesh Ramon

Eilat

CaesareaZichron Ya'akov

HaifaAkko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

Katzrin

BaniasNature Reserve

Nimrod Fortress

Tsfat

NazarethBeit She’anDaliyat

AlKarmel

Gamla

Rosh Pina

Beit Guvrin-MareshaNational Park#÷

SAUDIARABIA

JORDAN

EGYPT

LEBANON

SYRIA


G U L F O FS U E Z

SuezCanal

Mt Carmel

Tel AvivJaffa

JERUSALEMMasada

Dead Sea


Eilat


HaifaAkko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

Katzrin


Nimrod Fortress

Tsfat


AlKarmel

Gamla

Rosh Pina


SAUDIARABIA

JORDAN

EGYPT

LEBANON

SYRIA


G U L F O FS U E Z

SuezCanal

Mt Carmel

Tel AvivJaffa

JERUSALEMMasada

Dead Sea


Eilat


HaifaAkko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

Katzrin


Nimrod Fortress

Tsfat


AlKarmel

Gamla

Rosh Pina


SAUDIARABIA

JORDAN

EGYPT

LEBANON

SYRIA


G U L F O FS U E Z

SuezCanal

Mt Carmel

Tel AvivJaffa

JERUSALEMMasada

Dead Sea


Eilat


HaifaAkko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

Katzrin


Nimrod Fortress

Tsfat


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Gamla

Rosh Pina


SAUDIARABIA

JORDAN

EGYPT

LEBANON

SYRIA


G U L F O FS U E Z

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Mt Carmel

Tel AvivJaffa

JERUSALEMMasada

Dead Sea


Eilat


HaifaAkko

Rosh HaNikra

Tiberias

Katzrin


Nimrod Fortress

Tsfat


AlKarmel

Gamla

Rosh Pina

Beit Guvrin–MareshaNational Park

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Israeli Odyssey

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Above: Spices, Mahane Yehuda Market (p81), JerusalemLeft: Tomb of Yasser Arafat (p275), Ramallah

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PLAN YO

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This route takes you to the major Palestin-ian cities and sights.

Start off at the Yasser Arafat Museum in Ramallah before jumping on a sherut up to Taybeh to check out the West Bank’s oldest brewery for an hour or two. Spend your first evening either bar-hopping in Ramallah or hanging out with the locals in the cafes close to Manara Sq. The next day jump on a bus to Nablus for a day of shopping in its enchanting market, scrubbing up at an ancient hammam and visiting the Samaritans atop Mt Gerizim. Up early the next day, grab a service to Jenin and check out the Freedom Theatre and then either head back to Ramallah or spend a day staying with farmers near the northern village of Burqi’in. Take a service to Jericho for a full day of sight-seeing (perhaps two, if you want to see everything). End your trip with a couple of nights Bethlehem, with its winding lanes and ancient churches, and a day trip to the troubled city of Hebron, profoundly sacred to both Jews and Muslims.

1 WEEK

Welcome to the West Bank

From simple hummus to Arab- and French-inspired gourmet meals, this tour of gastronomic hot spots takes in the Holy Land’s most delicious dishes.

Start in Jerusalem, where contenders for the ‘best hummus’ title can be found in the Old City, and the foodie scene around the Mahane Yehuda produce market is worth exploring. For the country’s best gooey- hot, cheesy-sweet kunafeh pastry, head north to the West Bank city of Nab-lus and then sample extra-virgin olive oil in Jenin. Make a beeline for Nazareth, where the buzzword is fusion. Continue your culinary pilgrimage on the shores of the Sea of Galilee with a lunch of St Peter’s fish and then head to the Golan Heights for perfectly aged steak – paired, of course, with Golan-grown red wines. Looping west, stop in Jish for Galilee-style Arab cuisine or drop by the all-vegetarian settlement of Amirim for meat-free treats. Finally, head to the Mediterranean coast, sampling seafood and hummus in Akko, creative Arab cuisine in Haifa, and modern Israeli cuisine in Tel Aviv, where glamorous restaurants run by celebrity chefs vie for attention with tradi-tional eateries serving hummus, falafel and the local fast-food favourite, sabich.

10 DAYS

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Nablus

Jenin

Tel Aviv

Akko

Haifa

Nazareth

Amirim

JishGolan

Heights

LEBANON

JORDAN

Sea ofGalilee

DeadSea

Nablus

Jenin

Jericho

Ramallah

JERUSALEM

Hebron

JORDAN

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Aileen Gerloff, Anna Thanou, Bill Davis, Caroline Guibet Lafaye, Dominik Armellini, Eran Globus, Frederik de Smedt, Isabela Vera, Jannik Zijlstra, Jeroen van der Zeeuw, Kirsty Westra, Nikolaj Albrecht, Petra Bischofberger, Sophie Millner, Thorsten Nieberg, Vibhor Garg

AUTHOR THANKSDaniel RobinsonSpecial thanks to (from south to north): Chini Da-Silva, Gili Bat-Sara, Eran Hejams, Jody Siro-ta and Michael Chen (Eilat); Yair Sela (Samar); Alex Cicelsky, Doria Pinkas and Maya Galimidi (Lotan); Anat Sha’ul (Ne’ot Smadar); David and Ofra Faiman (Sde Boker); Gil Shkedi (Ne’ot HaKikar); David Lew (Masada); Lee, Meitar and Shani (Ein Gedi Field School); Sliman (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Eldad Hazan (Ein Feshkha/Einot Tzukim); Nisim Bados (Beit She’an); Nati and Ofer (Banias); Rachel Eshkol (Tzipori); Ido Itai and Amir Aviram (Gamla); Gregory and Hanoch (Yehudiya); Alon Malichi (Katzrin); Omer Feldman and Ya’akov Leiter (Tsfat); Ron Tsvi, Amihai and Tehila (Rosh Pina); HaKupa’it Vera (Tel Hatzor); Mordechai Kohelet Israel (Dalton); Tony (Jish); Inbar Rubin (Agamon HaHuleh); Anat Nissim (Galil Nature Museum);

Shadi (Tel Dan); Talal (Mt Hermon); and, most especially, my wife Rachel and my sons Yair and Sasson for their support, understanding and patience.

Orlando CrowcroftI would like to thank my friends Nigel Wilson and Mary Pelletier in Ramallah, MC in Jerusa-lem and Heidi Levine in Tel Aviv. A big shout out to all the staff at Area D Hostel, Ayman at the Cinema Guesthouse in Jenin, Canaan Khoury and family in Taybeh and all those who made me feel welcome during my stay in the Pales-tinian Territories. I’d also like to thank my editor Lauren Keith and fellow authors Anita Isalska, Daniel Robinson and Dan Savery Raz. And my wife, Helen, for everything.

Anita IsalskaCountless chance encounters and conver-sations enriched my research; thank you to everyone who knowingly or unknowingly guided my travels. I’m especially grateful for the suggestions and insights from Noga Tarnopolsky, Riman Barakat, Linda Gradstein, the Educational Bookshop & Cafe crew, and for Slavica and Einav, who pointed me to some excellent tips. Deep thanks to Anna Heijblok, whose stories of her Jerusalem will stay with me. And, as ever, heartfelt gratitude to Normal Matt for cheerleading from the wings.

Behind the Scenes


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BEHIN

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Dan Savery RazThanks to destination editor Lauren Keith for kicking this project off and making it run so smoothly. Also thank you to Maoz Inon (travel entrepreneur and peace warrior), Yoram Hai (for vegan tips) and Bea Hemming (for recommending Bicicletta). Biggest thanks goes to my wife, Shiri, for looking after the kids while I tapped away on my laptop, and my two girls, Hila and Maya, for always making me smile.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘ Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Dead Sea, vvvita/ Shutterstock ©.

lllustrations pp56–7 by Javier Martinez Zarracina, pp350–1 by Michael Weldon.

THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Israel & the Palestinian Territories guide-book was researched and written by Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Anita Isalska, Dan Savery Raz and Jenny Walker. The previous edition was written by Daniel Robinson, Orlando Crowcroft, Virginia Maxwell and Jenny

Walker. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Lauren KeithProduct Editors Carolyn Boicos, Elizabeth Jones, Anne Mason, Saralinda TurnerSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Katherine Marsh Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Helen Koehne, Lou

McGregor, Rosie Nicholson, Charlotte Orr, Christopher Pitts Assisting Cartographers Gabe Lindquist, Alison Lyall Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Nicholas Colicchia, Gwen Cotter, Helen Elfer, Sandie Kestell, Virginia Moreno, Ilana Myers, Lauren O’Connell, Martine Power, Alison Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan, Jacqui Saunders

437

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1948 Arab–Israeli War 366-7

AAbu Ghosh 109accommodation 411-12, see

also individual locationslanguage 429, 431

Acre, see Akko activities 23-7, 32-3, see also

individual activitiesAfrican Hebrew Israelites of

Jerusalem 376Agamon HaHula 247air travel 421, 422Akhziv 193-4Akhzivland 193-4Akko (Acre) 14, 185-91,

188, 14Al Aqsa Mosque 59Al Beidha (Petra) 354Al Haram Ash Sharif 9, 53-9,

56-7, 56-7Alexander Stream National

Park 154Alma Beach 126amusement & water parks

Latrun 110Meymadion Water Park 125Tel Aviv 125Tiberias 216

Ancient City (Petra) 343-6Ani’am Artists’ Village 255animals 402, 403, see also

individual speciesApollonia National Park

151-2aquariums 332Arabic 431-2Arafat, Yasser 370-1

museum 275tomb 275, 30

Arava, the 328-32Arbel National Park 219-20Arch of Titus 360archaeological digs 32, 111archaeological sites, see

also fortresses & palaces, historic sites, ruins

Ancient Bathhouse 200Ancient City (Petra) 343-6Ancient Katzrin Park 252Beit She’an 15, 209-11,

15, 206 Bethsaida 226Caesarea 13, 182-5, 184Capernaum 15, 221,

226, 15City of David 75-6Crusader City 184Herodian Quarter

Museum 67-8Jerusalem Archaeological

Park & Davidson Centre 66-7

Kursi National Park 228Magdala 220Masada 307-8Mey Kedem Tunnel 182Old Jaffa Visitors Centre

128 Petra 343-6, 350-1Qumran National Park

306-7Tel Be’er Sheva 317-18Tel Hatzor 247Tell Balata Archaelogical

Park 287Western Wall Tunnels 66

architecture 17, 69, 126area codes 417Ari’s Mikveh 237Armageddon 180 Armenian ceramics 70art galleries, see also

museumsBeit HaGefen Cultural

Center 163Beit Ha’ir 117

Canaan Gallery 238Chelouche Gallery 120Dar Zahran Heritage

Building 275Ein Hod Gallery 178Fig Tree Courtyard 238General Safed Exhibition

238Helena Rubenstein

Pavilion 116Ilana Goor Museum 129Kabbalah Art 238Museum on the Seam 79Museum Without Walls 163Negev Artists’ House 317Safed Candles Gallery 235Sheva Chaya

Glassblowing Gallery 238

Studio Magal 178Tel Aviv Museum of

Art 116Tzfat Gallery of Mystical

Art 238arts 396-401, see also

individual artsAshkenazim 374-5Atlit 179-80ATMs 415Avdat 320Ayn Hawd 177-9

BBaha’i faith 164Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 189 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12,

159, 161, 12, 168Banias Nature Reserve 258Banksy 272, 399Bar’am National Park 242bargaining 415Basilica of the Annunciation

196, 22bathhouses & hammams

Akko 189Nablus 289Wadi Musa (Petra) 347

Bauhaus architecture 17, 126

beaches 21Alma Beach 126Aqueduct Beach 185Argaman Beach 189Atlit 179Bat Galim Beach 166Beit Yanai 179Bograshov Beach

125Coral Beach Nature

Reserve 332 Dado Beach 166Dekel Beach 333Dolphin Reef Eilat

332-3Dor 179Ein Bokek Beach 20, 311Frishman Beach 125Gordon Beach 10, 124,

134-5Herzliya Beach 151Hilton Beach 125Metzitzim Beach

124-5Mikhmoret Beach 154Netanya Beach 153North Beach 332Tel Aviv 10, 123-6, 10Village Beach 333Zamir Beach 166

Bedouin people 377beer 20, 382Be’er Sheva 317-19, 318Beit Alpha Synagogue

211Beit Guvrin-Maresha

National Park 111Beit Keshet Forest 208Beit She’an 15, 209-11,

15, 206Beit She’an Valley 209-13Beit She’arim 177Belvoir 211Ben-Gurion 321Bet Gabriel 230


438

IND

EX B-D

Bethlehem 16, 266-74, 268, 5, 16

accommodation 272-3checkpoints 264drinking & nightlife

273, 274food 273sights 267-72travel to/from 274

Bethsaida 226bicycle travel, see cyclingBio-Ramon 324-5birdwatching 32, 404

Agamon HaHula 247Gamla Nature Reserve

255Hula Nature Reserve

246-7International Birding &

Research Center in Eilat 333-4

Black Hebrews 376boat travel 422Bograshov Beach 125books 357

government & politics 390

health 428history 363literature 396-7religion 394

border crossings 36-9, 419British Mandate 50, 113,

363-6budget 19, 412, 414burial sites, see tombs &

burial sites bus travel 422-3business hours 19

CCaesarea 13, 182-5,

184, 13Caesarea National Park

183-4, 168calendars 24camel riding 335Capernaum 15, 221, 226, 15car travel 423-4

safety 410Shabbat 423

Cardo Maximus 67Carmelite Monastery of St

Elijah 177Caro Synagogue 235

cathedrals, see churches, chapels & cathedrals

cavesBell Caves 111Cave of the 40 Holy

Monks 200 Cave of Machpelah 283Dodim Cave 302Elijah’s Cave 165-6Flour Cave 313Mt Sodom 313Rosh HaNikra Grottoes

193, 168Sidonian Caves 111Soreq Cave 111

cell phones 18, 417cemeteries, see also tombs

& burial sitesAncient Jewish

Cemetery 237Commonwealth War

Cemetery 317Kinneret Cemetery 230

Centre International Marie de Nazareth 198-9

ceramics 70, 238Chagall Windows 90chapels, see churches,

chapels & cathedralscheckpoints 264cheese 381children, travel with 40-1

Jerusalem 93Tel Aviv 125

Christian sites 22, see also individual sites

Christianity 359-61, 393-4Christians 377-8churches, chapels &

cathedrals, see also monasteries

Basilica of Jesus the Adolescent 200

Basilica of the Annunciation 196, 22

Basilica of the Transfiguration 208

Benedictine Abbey (Abu Ghosh) 109

Cana Catholic Wedding Church 204

Cana Greek Orthodox Wedding Church & Monastery 204

Chapel of the Ascension 77

Christ Anglican Church 200

Christ Church 65Church & Monastery of

the Apostles 215

Church & Monastery of the Dormition 71-2

Church of All Nations 78Church of Mary

Magdalene 78Church of St John the

Baptist 90Church of St Peter of

Gallicantu 74-5Church of the Ascension

77Church of the Holy

Sepulchre 11, 60-2, 64, 224, 61, 11, 85

Church of the Holy Trinity 81

Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves & Fishes 220, 225

Church of the Nativity 224, 267-9, 224-5

Church of the Pater Noster 77

Church of the Primacy of St Peter 220-1

Church of the Visitation 90

Franciscan Monastery & Church 208

Greek Catholic Church 200

Greek Orthodox Church of St George 290

Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation 200

Immanuel Church 120-1Jacob’s Well 287Lutheran Christmas

Church 269-70Lutheran Church of the

Redeemer 65Milk Grotto Chapel 269Monastery of the Twelve

Apostles 226Mount of the Beatitudes

221Our Lady of the Ark of

the Covenant 109Russian Church of the

Ascension 77St Andrew’s Church 82-3St Anne’s Church 68-9St Catherine’s Church

269St George’s Cathedral 79St James’ Cathedral 70-1St Joseph’s Church 197-8St Mark’s Chapel 71St Peter’s Church 214St Peter’s Monastery 128Synagogue-Church 200

cinema 357, 400, 401Circassian people 208-9,

377Citadel 59-60City of David 75-6climate 18, 23-7, see also

individual regionsconsulates 413-14Coral Beach Nature

Reserve 332costs 19, 412, 414courses

cooking 347Judaism 239language 91, 131, 166

co-working spaces 133credit cards 415Crusades, the 361-2culture 385-7currency 18customs regulations 412cycling 20, 32-3, 405, 422

Beit Keshet Forest 208Kinneret Trail 218Mt Sodom 313Neot HaKikar 314Sea of Galilee 218Sirrin Heights 208Yardenit 218

DDado Lookout 251dairies 236Daliyat Al Karmel

176-7Damascus Gate 68dance 397dangers, see safetyDarwish, Mahmoud 372Davidka Monument 237Dead Sea 9, 44, 297-314,

404-5, 298, 9, 304-5accommodation 297climate 297festivals & events 302food 299-300geography 299highlights 298hiking 297history 299safety 310travel seasons 297travel to/from 300

Dead Sea Scrolls 87, 306, 307

diarrhoea 427 disabilities, travellers

with 418Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

439IN

DEX D

-H diving & snorkelling 33

Caesarea 185Coral Beach Nature

Reserve 332Eilat 332-3

Dome of the Ascension 77Dome of the Rock 9, 58,

223, 8-9, 84-5, 222Domus Galilaeae 226driving, see car traveldriving licences 423 Druze people 378

Eeconomy 387Egypt border crossings 39Eilat 332-40, 334, 336-7Ein Bokek 311-12Ein Feshkha 306Ein Gedi 300-6Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

301-2, 305Ein Harod 212Ein Hod 177-9Ein Kerem 90Ein Zivan 256electricity 413Elijah’s Cave 165-6embassies 413-14emergencies 19

language 430, 432En Avdat National Park

321-2, 22environmental issues

403-6escape rooms 145Ethiopian Jews 376etiquette 414events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

FFatah 373, 389, 391festivals & events 20,

23-7, 382-3, see also individual locations

films 357, 400, 401First Station 102food 20, 380-4, see also

individual locationscheese 381falafel 381festivals & celebrations

382-3halal 381hummus 380internet resources 384kosher 381

language 430, 432price ranges 414Shabbat 381-2shakshuka 139

fortresses & palaces, see also archaeological sites, ruins

Belvoir Crusader Fortress 211

Herodium 271-2Hisham’s Palace 280 Nimrod Fortress 258Palace of the Lady

Tunshuq 69Freedom Theatre 290Frishman Beach 125

GGalilee, Lower 43, 195-230,

197accommodation 195climate 195food 195highlights 197internet resources 215travel seasons 195

Galilee, Upper 43, 231-51, 232

accommodation 231climate 231food 231highlights 232travel seasons 231

Gamla Nature Reserve 255Gan-Garoo Australian Park

211-12gardens, see parks &

gardensGay Pride Parade 25gay travellers 104, 143, 414Gaza Strip 43, 292-6Golan Heights 43, 232,

252-60, 232Gordon Beach 10, 124,

134-5Gospel Trail 200government 388-91Greek Orthodox Church of

the Annunciation 200Griffon vultures 255Gush Dan 151

HHaas Promenade 83Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature

Reserve 329Haifa 42, 157-76, 158, 160-1

accommodation 167-70activities 166

courses 166drinking & nightlife 172-3entertainment 173-4festivals & events 167food 170-2history 158-9medical services 174shopping 174sights 159-66tourist offices 174tours 166-7travel to/from 174-5travel within 175-6

halal food 381HaMakhtesh HaGadol 326HaMakhtesh HaKatan 326Hamas 373, 389, 391Hamas–Israel War 356-7Hamat Gader 228-9Hamat Tveriya National

Park 216HaMeiri Dairy 236hammams, see bathhouses

& hammams Hanukkah 27Har Hazikaron 88-9headcoverings, Jewish 393health 426-8heat exhaustion 427-8Hebrew 130, 429-31Hebron 282-6, 285Hecht Museum 166Herodium 271-2Herzliya 151-2hiking 21, 32, 33

Coexistence Trail 243Dead Sea 301Eilat 338Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

301En Avdat National Park

321-2, 22Golan 253Gospel Trail 200Israel National Trail 208Jesus Trail 201, 208Kfar Tavor 208Masada 308-9Mitzpe Ramon 325Mt Sodom 313Mt Tabor 208Negev 325Sanhedrin Trail 216Sea of Galilee 226Siege Ramp Trail 309Snake Path 309Tel Dan Nature Reserve

249Timna Park 329

Wadi Arugot 302Wadi Bokek 311Wadi David 302Yehudiya Nature Reserve

254Hilton Beach 125Hisham’s Palace 280historic sites, see also

archaeological sitesAkko’s city walls 186-7ancient Galilee boat 220Atlit Detention Camp 179Beit Oliphant 176Cardo Maximus 67Independence Hall

117, 120Inn of the Good

Samaritan 281Knights’ Halls 187Mauristan 64-5Old Railway Station

(Jaffa) 130Pool of Al Anazia 154-5Ramparts Walk 60Russian Compound 81Turkish Railway Station

317White Tower 155

history 358-731948 Arab–Israeli War

366-7Battle of Ein Jalut 213books 363British Mandate 50, 113,

363-6Christianity, emergence

of 361Crusades, the 361-2Hamas–Israel War 356-7Hellenistic period

359-60Holocaust & WWII 89,

179, 192, 365-6Islam, emergence of

361-3Oslo Accords 370-1Ottoman Empire 363-6Palestine Liberation

Organisation (PLO) 368-70

Palestine, partitioning of 366

Roman Empire 359-61WWI 364Zionism 363-6

hitching 424holidays 416-17Holocaust 89, 179, 192,

365-6Holon 152-3

440

IND

EX H-M

horse riding 227, 256-7, 325-6

hot springsHamat Gader 228-9Tiberias 216

Hula Valley 246-7Human Condition, The 313hummus 380

Iice skating 251, 335immigration 39Incense Route 320insect bites & stings 428insurance 414-15

health 426internet access 415internet resources 19

environmental issues 405

food & drink 384health 426

Islam 361-3, 394-5Islamic Jihad 389Israel Festival 25Israel Museum 17, 86-7, 17Israel National Trail 208Israeli people 385-6Israeli settlements 286itineraries 28-31

JJacob’s Well 287Jaffa (Yafo) 42, 113, 127-31,

137, 141-2, 144, 147, 128Jaffa Gate 59Jenin 290-1Jericho 12, 223, 279-82,

12, 284Jerusalem 42, 46-109

48-9, 72-3Abu Tor 97-8accommodation 46, 92-8Armenian Quarter 70-1Baka 97-8children, travel with 93Christian Quarter 60-5climate 46courses 91Downtown 79-82, 94-6,

99-100, 103, 106, 80-1

drinking & nightlife 102-4

East Jerusalem 78-9, 94, 99, 105-6

Ein Kerem 90entertainment 104-5festivals & events 91-2food 46, 98-102German Colony 83, 97-8,

102, 104Givat Ram 83-8, 102Har Hazikaron 88-9highlights 48history 47, 50-1itineraries 51Jaffa Gate 59-60Jewish Quarter 65-8Kidron Valley 75-7King David St 82-3Mahane Yehuda 100-1,

103-4, 106Mamilla 96-7, 101-2medical services 106-7Mount of Olives 77-8, 223Mt Zion 71-5, 224Muslim Quarter 68-70Old City 53, 92-4, 98-9,

102-3, 105, 52-3Rechavia 97Rehavia 83safety 78shopping 105-6sights 51-90Talbiyeh 83, 104Talpiot 83tourist offices 107tours 91travel seasons 46travel to/from 107travel within 108-9walking tours 61, 62-3,

61, 63Yemin Moshe 96-7, 101-2

Jerusalem Syndrome 64Jesus of Nazareth 201,

360-1, 393-4Jesus Trail 201, 208Jewish dress 88, 393Jewish peoples 369, 374-6Jezreel Valley 209-13Jezreel Valley Railway 210Jish 243-5Jisr Az Zarka 182Jordan border crossings

37-9, 419Jordan River 248Judaica 398Judaism 362, 386, 392-3

KKabbalah 362Kadosh Dairy 236

Kafr Kana 204-5Katzrin 252-4kayaking 248keffiyeh 371Kfar Kama 208-9Kfar Tavor 208kibbutzim 330

Ein Harod 212Kibbutz Ketura 330Kibbutz Lohamei

HaGeta’ot 191-2Kibbutz Lotan 329Kibbutz Neot Semadar

329-30Kidron Valley 75-7Kinneret Trail 218Kirkuk-Haifa Pipeline 210Kiryat Shmona 250Knesset 87-8Knights’ Halls 187Korazim National Park 226Kornmehl Farm 322kosher food 381Kursi National Park 228

Llanguages 18, 429-32

Arabic 431-2courses 91, 131, 166 Hebrew 130, 429-31

Last Supper, Room of the 71

Latrun 110Law of Return 375legal matters 415Leishmaniasis 426-7LGBTIQ travellers 104,

143, 414Lights in Jerusalem 25Lions’ Gate 69literature 396-7, see also

booksLittle Petra 353-4Lot’s Wife 313Lower Galilee, see Galilee,

LowerLuna Park 125

MMagdala 220Mahane Yehuda Market 81,

30, 84Majdal Shams 259-60Majrase Nature Reserve

228Makhtesh Ramon 16,

324, 16makhteshim 326Mamluk architecture 69

Mamshit 320maps 415Mar Saba Monastery 271,

284-5markets

Bethlehem souq 269Carmel Market 117Jaffa Flea Market 129Levinski Spice Market

121Mahane Yehuda Market

81, 30, 84Nahalat Binyamin Crafts

Market 147Old Port Farmers’ Market

147Sarona Market 124Souq Al Abiad 189Souq Al Qattanin 70

Masada 12, 307-11, 12Masada National Park

307-8Mauristan 64-5Mea She’arim 86medical services 426, 427Megiddo 180Meir, Golda 388Merom Golan 256-7Metula 250-1Metzitzim Beach 124-5Mey Kedem 182Meymadion Water Park 125Midburn 25Middle East Respiratory

Syndrome 427Mikhmoret Beach 154military service 385-6minefields 410Mini Israel 110missiles 409Mitzpe Ramon 323-8, 324Mizrahim 375-6mobile phones 18, 417monasteries, see also

churches, chapels & cathedrals

Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 177

Church & Monastery of the Apostles 215

Church & Monastery of the Dormition 71-2

Ethiopian Monastery 64Franciscan Monastery &

Church 208Latrun Monastery 110Mar Saba Monastery 271,

284-5Monastery of the

Cross 88Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

441IN

DEX M

-N

Monastery of the Qurantul 280

Monastery of the Twelve Apostles 226

St George’s Monastery 281

St Peter’s Monastery 128Stella Maris Carmelite

Monastery 165money 18, 19, 413, 415-16Montefiore Windmill 82Montfort Castle 192-3Moshav Amirim 242-3mosques

Al Amari Mosque 216Al Aqsa Mosque 59Al Bahr Mosque 215Al Jazzar Mosque 187Hassan Bek Mosque 129Ibrahimi Mosque 283,

284Mosque of Omar 269Nabi Musa 281Red Mosque 239White Mosque 200

motorcycle travel 423-4safety 410

Mount of Olives 77-8, 223Mount of Temptation 280Mount of the Beatitudes

221Mt Bental 257Mt Gilboa 212-13Mt Hermon 260Mt Meron 242Mt Sodom 313Mt Tabor 205, 208Mt Zion 71-5, 224Muhammad, Prophet 55,

58, 361, 394-5museums, see also art

galleriesBe’er Avraham 318Beit Hatfutsot 126-7Beit Lohamei HaGeta’ot

192Ben-Gurion Museum 116Ben-Gurion’s Desert

Home 321Bethlehem Museum 269Bialik Museum 117Bible Lands Museum 87Bloomfield Science

Museum 93Burnt House 67Caesarea Maritima

Museum 184Centre International

Marie de Nazareth 198-9

Circassian Heritage Center 209

Citadel 59-60Clandestine Immigration

& Naval Museum 165Design Museum Holon

152Eilat Museum 333Eretz Israel Museum 127EthnoCenter 325First Aliya Museum 181Galil Nature Center 249Galilee Experience 215Golan Archaeological

Museum 252Haganah Museum 120Haifa City Museum 163Haifa Museum of Art

163-4HaMeiri Museum 236Hammam Al Pasha

187, 169Hecht Museum 166Herodian Quarter

Museum 67-8Herzl Museum 89Holocaust History

Museum 89IDF History Museum

130-1Israel Children’s Museum

152-3Israel Museum 17,

86-7, 17Israeli Air Force Museum

318Israeli Museum 127Jabotinsky Institute 117Janco-Dada Museum

178Kesem Hagolan 253LA Mayer Museum for

Islamic Art 83MadaTech 164-5Mahmoud Darwish

Museum 275Maine Friendship House

120Mané-Katz Museum 162Masada Museum 308Memorial Museum of

Hungarian Speaking Jewry 239

Museum of Art, Ein Harod 212

Museum of Bedouin Culture 319

Museum of Holocaust Art 89

Museum of Italian Jewish Art 81-2

Museum of Palestinian Heritage 270

Museum of the History of Jerusalem 59

Nachum Gutman Museum of Art 121

National Maritime Museum 165

Negev Museum of Art & Museum of Islamic & Near Eastern Cultures 317

NILI Museum 181Nisco Museum 178Open Museum of

Photography 250Palestinian Heritage

Museum 79Palmach Museum 127Ramla Museum 155Rockefeller Museum 79Rubin Museum 117Russian Museum 280Samaritan Museum 288Tikotin Museum of

Japanese Art 162Treasures in the Wall

Museum 187Underground Prisoners

Museum 187, 189Upper Galilee Museum

of Prehistory 248Weizmann Institute of

Science 153Yad Layeled Children’s

Memorial Museum 192Yad Vashem 88-9Yasser Arafat Museum

275Yigal Alon Centre 220Yitzhak Rabin Centre 127

music 397-8Muslim peoples 376-7

NNablus 17, 286-90, 288, 17Nahal Iyyun Nature

Reserve 251Nahariya 192Nahla’ot 83Naot Farm 322national parks, see also

nature reservesAkhziv National Park 193Alexander Stream

National Park 154Apollonia National Park

151-2Arbel National Park

219-20Bar’am National Park 242

Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park 111

Beit She’an National Park 209-10, 206

Beit She’arim National Park 177

Caesarea National Park 183-4, 168

En Avdat National Park 321-2, 22

Hamat Tveriya National Park 216

Korazim National Park 226

Kursi National Park 228Masada National Park

307-8Megiddo National Park

180Qumran National Park

306-7Tel Arad National Park

319Tzipori National Park

205, 207nature reserves, see also

national parksBanias Nature Reserve

258Ein Feshkha Nature

Reserve 306Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

301-2, 305Gamla Nature Reserve

255Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature

Reserve 329HaYarden Park Nature

Reserve 226Hula Nature Reserve

246-7Majrase Nature Reserve

228Makhtesh Ramon Nature

Reserve 16, 324, 16Nahal Iyyun Nature

Reserve 251Tel Dan Nature Reserve

248-9Yehudiya Nature Reserve

254-5Nazareth 14, 196-204,

198-9, 15, 206Nazareth Village 201Negev 44, 315-40, 316, 22


Negev Highlands 319-23Nelson Mandela Sq 275

442

IND

EX N-T

Neot HaKikar 313-14Neot Kedumim 110-11Netanya 153-4Netanyahu, Benjamin 372nightlife 22Nimrod 258-9Nimrod Fortress 258north coast 42, 156-94, 157


OOdem 257-8Old Port (Tel Aviv) 124opening hours 19Oslo Accords 370-1 Ottolenghi, Yotam 101Our Lady of the Ark of the

Covenant 109

Ppalaces, see fortresses &

palacesPalestine Liberation

Organisation (PLO) 389Palestinian Authority 390Palestinian Heritage

Museum 79Palestinian people 387parks & gardens

Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 189

Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, 159, 161, 12, 168

Bio-Ramon 324-5Botanical Garden of

Eilat 334Citadel Park 237Ein Gedi Botanical

Garden 302-3Gan Ha’Em 163Gan Meir Park 117Garden of Gethsemane

78Garden Tomb 79HaPisgah Gardens 128-9Independence Park 125Japanese garden 211Park HaYarkon 126Ramat HaNadiv Gardens

181Shepherds’ Field 270

Solomon’s Pools 270Timna Park 329

Passover 24passports 418

Israeli stamps 38Petra 44, 341-54, 342,

344-5, 350-1accommodation 341climate 341food 341highlights 342itineraries 353travel seasons 341

Petra by Night 347planning, see also

individual regionsbasics 18-19border crossings 36-9,

419budgeting 19, 412, 414calendar of events 23-7children, travel with 40-1internet resources 19itineraries 28-31regions 42-4repeat visitors 20Shabbat 34-5travel seasons 18, 23-7

plants 402politics 356-7, 367-73,

388-91Pool of Al Anazia 154-5Pool of Bethesda 68population 356, 385-7postal services 416protests 409-10public holidays 416-17Purim 23

QQalandia 264Qasr Al Yahud 280, 223Qumran National Park

306-7Quneitra Viewpoint 256

Rrabies 427Rabin Square 115-16Rabin, Yitzhak 127, 370-1Rachel’s Tomb 270rafting 248Ramadan 383Ramallah 10, 274-8,

276, 10Ramat Dalton 245Ramla 154-5, 155Red Sea Jazz Festival 26

refugee camps 270, 372religion 392-5, see also

individual religionsreligious services 90Ribat Bayram Jawish 69Rivlin, Reuven 389rocket attacks 409Room of the Last Supper

71Rosh HaNikra Grottoes

193, 168Rosh HaShanah 26Rosh Pina 245-6ruins, see also

archaeological sites, fortresses & palaces, historic sites

Al Beidha (Petra) 354 Crusader castle (Atlit)

179-80Hisham’s Palace 280Little Petra Siq 353-4Samaritan Ruins 287-8Sebastia 288-9Street of Facades 343Tel Al Sultan 279-80

SSabbath, see ShabbatSafari Ramat Gan 125Safed, see Tsfatsafety 408-10, 412-13

hitching 424road 424sinkholes 303

Samaritans 378-9Sanhedrin Trail 216Sarona 124Schindler, Oskar 73-4scuba diving, see diving Sde Boker 321-3Sea of Galilee 15, 43, 195,

218, 219-30, 197, 206-7cycling 218highlights 197walking 226water level 221

security 408-10 senior travellers 413separation wall 271Sephardim 374settlements, Israeli 286Shabbat 34-5, 90, 416

driving 423food 381-2Jerusalem 96Tel Aviv 146Tsfat 236, 241

shakshuka 139

Sharon, Ariel 371sherut travel 424Shivta 320Shrine of Abu Ibrahim 176Shrine of the Báb 161-2,

168Sidonian Caves 111Sidreh – Lakiya Negev

Weaving 319sinkholes 303Siq 343Siq Al Barid 353-4Sirrin Heights 208skiing 260snake bites 428snorkelling, see diving &

snorkelling Sodom 312-13Soreq Cave 111souqs, see marketsspas 303springs, see hot springsStations of the Cross 62-3Stella Maris Carmelite

Monastery 165street art 399Suzanne Dellal Centre 121synagogues 21

Abuhav Synagogue 235-6

Ades Synagogue 82Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue

224, 235Beit Alpha Synagogue

211Capernaum 221Caro Synagogue 235Eliahu Hanavi 67Emtza’i (Middle)

Synagogue 67Hurva Synagogue 68Istanbuli Synagogue 67Sephardic Ari Synagogue

236Umm Al Kanatir

Synagogue 255Yokhanan Ben Zahai 67

TTabgha 219, 220, 224taxes 417taxis 424-5Taybeh 278-9Tel Al Sultan 279-80Tel Arad National Park 319Tel Aviv 17, 42, 112-51, 114,

122-3, 17, 134-5accommodation 112,

132-7activities 131

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

443IN

DEX T-Z

City Centre 115-17, 133, 137-9, 143, 146

climate 112courses 131drinking & nightlife

142-4entertainment 144-6festivals & events 132Florentin 121, 123, 141food 112, 137-42highlights 114history 113, 115internet access 148internet resources 148itineraries 116Jaffa (Yafo) 113, 127-31,

137, 141-2, 144, 147, 128

medical services 148Neve Tzedek 121, 141,

146-7, 135Park HaYarkon 126-7, 137Ramat Aviv 126-7safety 148shopping 146-8sights 115-31South City Centre 117,

120-1, 136-7, 139-41, 143-4, 146, 118-19

Tel Aviv Beach & Port 123-6, 137

tourist offices 148tours 126, 131-2travel seasons 112travel to/from 148-9travel within 149-50

Tel Aviv Museum of Art 116, 134

Tel Dan Nature Reserve 248-9

Tel Dan Stele 249Tel Hai 250Tel Hatzor 247telephone services 18, 417Tell Balata Archaelogical

Park 287Templars’ Tunnel 187Temple Mount/Al Haram

Ash Sharif 9, 53-9, 56-7, 56-7

templesFirst Temple 47, 59, 65,

358-9Great Temple (Petra)

344Qasr Al Bint (Petra) 345Second Temple 47, 54-5,

65, 359-60theatre 398-400theft 410

Tiberias 213-19, 214time 417tipping 415Tisch Zoological Gardens

93tombs & burial sites, see

also cemeteriesBen-Gurion Graves 321Garden Tomb 79Grave of Oskar Schindler

73-4Jehoshaphat 76King David’s Tomb 71Monastery (Petra) 346Rachel’s Tomb 270Royal Tombs (Petra) 343Tomb of Rabbi Akiva

215-16Tomb of Rabbi Meir Ba’al

HaNess 215Tomb of Rabbi Yohanan

ben Zakkai 215Tomb of the Lady

Tunshuq 69Tomb of the Patriarchs

224, 283Tomb of the Prophets

77-8Tomb of the Rambam

215Tomb of the Rashbi 242Tomb of the Virgin

Mary 78Tomb of Turkan Khatun

69Tomb of Yasser Arafat

275, 30Tomb of Zechariah 76-7Tombs of the Kabbalists

237Treasury 343

tourist information 418tours 425Tower of David 59-60train travel 20, 425traveller’s diarrhoea 427travel to/from Israel & the

Palestinian Territories 421-2

travel within Israel & the Palestinian Territories 422-5

Tree of Zacchaeus 280trekking, see hikingTsfat 13, 233-41, 234, 13

accommodation 239-40courses 239festivals & events 239food 240-1history 233medical services 241

sights 233-9tourist offices 241tours 239travel to/from 241

Tzipori 205, 207

UUnderwater Observatory

Marine Park 332University of Haifa 166 Upper Galilee, see Galilee,

Upper

VValley of Jehoshaphat 76-7vegetarian & vegan

travellers 20, 142, 381Via Dolorosa 62-3, 223, 63,

222-3vineyards, see wineries visas 418-19visual arts 399, 400volunteering 419

WWadi Arugot 302Wadi David 302Wadi Musa 346-53, 348Wailing Wall, see Western

Wall walking, see hikingwalking tours

Church of the Holy Sepulchre 61, 61

Petra 350-1 Via Dolorosa 62-3, 63

Walled Off Hotel 272water 403-4, 428water parks, see

amusement & water parks

weather 18, 23-7, see also individual regions

websites, see internet resources

Weizmann Institute of Science 153

West Bank 43, 261-91, 262accommodation 261climate 261, 265food 261highlights 262history 263-5safety 263tours 265travel seasons 261travel to/from 265travel within 266

Western Wall 10, 65-6, 223, 10, 84, 222

Western Wall Tunnels 66wetlands 404-5wildflowers 402wildlife 402, 403windsurfing 33wineries 21, 244

Adir Winery 245Bahat Winery 256Boker Valley Vineyards

Farm 323Carmel Winery 180-1Carmey Avdat Winery

323Dalton Winery 245Golan Heights Winery

252Nachmani Winery 213Odem Mountain Winery

257Pelter Winery 256Sde Boker Winery 323Tabor Winery 208Taybeh Winery 278-9Tishbi Winery 181

womenin Israel 386in Palestinian Territories

387women travellers 420work 420WWI 364WWII 365-6, see also

Holocaust

YYa’ar HaAyalim 257Yad Vashem 88-9Yafo, see Jaffa Yamit 2000 125Yardenit 218Yardenit Baptismal Site 230Yasser Arafat Museum 275Yehudiya Nature Reserve

254-5Yitzhak Rabin Centre 127

ZZichron Ya’akov 180-2Zion Gate 68Zionism 365, 367zoos

Gan-Garoo Australian Park 211-12

Haifa 163Hamat Gader 229Tisch Zoological Gardens

93Ya’ar HaAyalim 257

444

NO

TES

445N

OTES

446

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Jenny WalkerPetra Despite having travelled to more than 120 countries from Mexico to Mongolia and Latvia to Lesotho, Jenny Walker’s main interest is in the Middle East, where she has been Associate Dean (PD) of Caledonian College of Engineering in Muscat for the past eight years. A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers and the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, Jenny has written extensively on the Middle East for Lonely Planet for more than a decade.


Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541539th edition – Jul 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 056 7© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSDaniel RobinsonLower Galilee & Sea of Galilee, Upper Galilee & Golan, The Dead Sea, The Negev Brought up near San Francisco and Chicago, Daniel spent part of his childhood in Jerusalem, a bit of his youth at Kibbutz Lotan and many years in Tel Aviv, where he worked on a PhD in late Ottoman history, covered suicide bombings for the Associ-ated Press, and helped lead the local Critical Mass campaign for bike paths. A Lonely Planet author since 1989, he holds a BA in Near Eastern Studies from Princeton

and an MA in Jewish History from Tel Aviv University. His favourite activities in Israel include cycling Tel Aviv’s historic avenues, hiking the wadis of Ein Gedi, and birdwatching in the Hula and Arava Valleys.

Orlando CrowcroftWest Bank, The Gaza Strip Orlando Crowcroft is a senior editor at Newsweek, author and former foreign correspondent who first visited the Palestinian Territo-ries in 2012 to cover a football tournament and has reported from Israel, the West Bank and Gaza regularly ever since. He was based in Tel Aviv as a stringer for the Guardian in 2014 when he began writing for Lonely Planet. In 2017 he published his first book, Rock in a Hard Place: Music and Mayhem in the Middle East. His

passions include sampling local fire-water and road trips (ideally not at the same time) and he has never met a dive bar he didn’t like.

Anita IsalskaJerusalem, Haifa & the North Coast Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copy-writer whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an inhouse editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host

of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Dan Savery RazTel Aviv Dan Savery Raz is a journalist and editor from Essex, England. Since 2008, Dan has lived in Tel Aviv with his wife and has coauthored various editions of Israel & the Palestinian Territories. He has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books including Best in Travel, Happy, Street Food, Global Beer Tour and Great Escapes, and written for BBC.com, BBC History Magazine, HaAretz, Time Out, EasyJet Traveller and The Jerusalem Report. Back in the UK, Dan was

Deputy Editor for Flybe magazine and Senior Staff Writer for A Place in the Sun in association with Channel 4. For more, see: www.danscribe.com.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


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