AdventureMagazine

AFrICA’S OnLY Adventure & OverLAnd e-ZIne

Tech - Gear - News - reviews

AdventureMagazine

AFrICA’S OnLY Adventure & OverLAnd e-ZIne

Tech - Gear - News - reviews

Adventure Magazine

3

For more information and sales visit www.hexdiagnostics.co.za or call +27 21 880 1433

Adventure Magazine

4

Crew & Contributors Editor-In-ChiefStephen de VriesCopywright EditorKirsten SheldonContributors Wilddog Adventure RidingPhotography & DesignKirsten SheldonStephen de VriesStitchedkitten Photographywww.stitchedkitten.co.zaWeb Hosting Redhammerwww.redhammer.co.zaContact082 5888383022 461 2526Advertising Enquiriesinfo@adventuremagazine.co.za

AdventureMagazine

Adventure Magazine

5

ContentsGS911CreditsGearPhoto of the MonthCederberg Adventure Bike ChallengeFeature - Pan South AfricanMotogear.co.zaFeature - Optimus PrimeRide Report - Lesotho a photo storyTrailersonline.co.zaTech - Chain MaintenanceFarkling your Transalp 700Tulie’s Adventures

Adventure Magazine

6

Contents

Adventure Magazine

7

Gear

Shift XC JacketFull Ce ArmourRemovable SleevesHydration Pack Ready

www.shiftracing.co.za

Shift Stealth GlovesShort cuff-style leather and textile glove. Direct inject knuckle guards. Lightweight, flexible materials with vent panels for added airflow. Leather palm with reinforced padding. Ad-ditional palm heel reinforcement. Pre-curved Lycra finger sidewalls. Hook and loop wrist closure.

Adventure Magazine

8

Click me to feature your product here.

Uvex Carbon EnduroAnti allergic, removable and washable COOL MAX inner lining Removable cheek paddingWindcuffCan be used with or without visorCovers for visor mechanics includedQuick-release visor lockHelmet bagRecommended for spectacle wearers

www.motogear.co.za

PodMx Knee BracesThermo Plastic Fully Customized for fit Improved comfort and airflow Self tracking patella guard The Best in Knee protection

www.podmx.co.za

Adventure Magazine

9

Photo of the MonthSubmitted by Mark Hardy, KZN, South Africa.

Submit you pictures to info@adventuremagazine.co.za

Adventure Magazine

10

Adventure Magazine

11

Honda South Africa recently introduced their mid package tourer. Call it something for the people who want something they can do distance on, but can’t really afford a Goldwing or find themselves too in-timidated by the Pan European ST1300.

Pan South AfricanHonda Deauville NT700

Adventure Magazine

12

Pan South African

Adventure Magazine

13

The Honda NT700, or Deauville as it’s called, is actually a very nice little package. 20 litres of fuel, 700 (680cc) V-twin engine and built in panniers? What more could the traveller on a budget ask for? Swinging your leg over the NT you immediately notice the facia – okay, who does not? Fuel gauge, speedo, tacho and tem-perature gauge, all analogue. Strange that they didn’t opt for the digital speedo/analogue tacho option as found on the brother Transalp. After all, they do share engines? That’s about all they share. The NT features a shaft drive. Yes, chain maintenance is a thing of the past. 120/17 front and a narrow 150/17 rear pro-vides rather good grip for a porky 237kg’er. I must say I was shocked to find out the actual weight. The NT carries its weight high up but I never felt out of control, with it changing direction very quickly and easily. So now we have a prefect tour-ing bike for the masses. Height adjustable front screen, built in panniers come standard. They are so narrow you hardly notice that they are there. Tucked in from the bars, if you can fit the

bars through, the back end will follow. Anyways, that’s what I believed and I didn’t get into trouble. Of course then there, is the Honda HISS security sys-tem that will protect you from potential thieves. Just don’t lose or damage your keys, it will be costly. Cruising seems to be what this little mid-sizer is about. Country lanes, 120km/h for hours… fuel consumption is around the 5l/100km so a tank should give you in the region of 350-400km. The standard ABS brakes work wonderfully. If it’s one thing that stands out, it’s the brakes. The 47kw engine is not the most powerful, but who’s racing when you are out and about on your way to your next destination? I would have hoped for a 6 speed transmis-sion as an overdrive option to keep the Rpm’s lower on the freeway though. 120kph is around 5000rpm, with the lim-iter being reached at just over 8000Rpm.The 47kw gets you moving on the freeway and you should be able to attain prosecutable speeds with this mid-sizer. You never really seem to feel how fast you are going. But it

Adventure Magazine

14

Adventure Magazine

15

really eats up the road. The standard exhaust system is extremely quiet. If it was not for the slight vibration through the bars at low speed, I would have thought that the engine was off.

There aren’t many road tourers in this segment. If you need something to replace your old-er Honda CX500 or Silverwing, go have a look at the Deauville. It’s a nice little package with good value for money.

Adventure Magazine

16

Adventure Magazine

17

Adventure Magazine

18

Adventure Magazine

19

OPTiMuS PRiMe

Adventure Magazine

20

OPTiMuS PRiMe

Adventure Magazine

21

The GS Adventure has been around now for a while. Back in the day, when there were adventurers riding around on R80 Kalaha-ri’s, little did they know that in a short span of time, BMW would break out with a master piece known to most travellers as the GS1200 Adventure.

Adventure Magazine

22

The 1200 boxer twin’s low stress engine makes it ideal for long distance touring, the way the motorcycles ergonomic just inspires the rider to go for miles is great. It’s a machine you ride for the whole day and feel like you could ride for an-other, straight away.

The ESA function that was in-troduced in 2008 is still with us and what an awesome system it is. Just doddle with the left thumb button and ‘voila’, you can choose the perfect damp-ing and pre-load settings for your trip. It’s perfect to com-pensate for a fully loaded bike. The settings need to be ad-justed while standing still and in neutral, although the rider can choose between the “com-fort, normal and sport damping levels while moving. The sys-tem works really well and it will only be a short while before the other manufacturers catch on. The grip heaters work re-ally well, with nothing more needed than the 1st stage if you are riding with thin gloves. The huge 33l tank will take you forever if you abide by local traffic regulations.

Adventure Magazine

23

Adventure Magazine

24

Why would you want to be in a hurry anyhow?

The rev limit has been raised and up to 8000rpm, making the boxer spread its legs slightly more. With around 105hp on tap, there is always enough power available. The transmis-sion, like most BMW’s, is super smooth with the clutch feather light, sometimes feeling that more than one finger is an overkill. Make no mistake; the GS Adventure is big and heavy, but also immensely capable. It’s not a dirt bike and it does not pretend to be one. There is no posing here; this bike is meant for some serious distance in some of the worst terrain avail-able. It’s not uncommon to read about guys travelling from Lon-

don to Cape Town on a couple of GS Adventures.

There is also a nearly end-less optional extra’s list: ABS; heated grips; tire pressure monitors; traction control and some other little things like headlights and so on.

There is a big range of open class adventure bikes avail-able. The BMW is in a class of its own and although that does not mean it’s the best bike available, it does everything well. Well, everything we could throw at it, at least.

Go test ride one, it might just change your opinion on long distance riding.

Adventure Magazine

25`

Lesotho a photo story.Ever since my 1st small trip through Lesotho in Dec 2006 I was capti-vated by this Mountain Kingdom.It’s hard to believe that a place like this exists within South Africa. It’s like something out of Lord Of The Rings, mystical and ancient. Unde-veloped.

So, after 2 years of looking forward, a year of planning and a week of preparation I was on my way to a 2nd and all together more intimate visit. All journeys have to start somewhere and mine would already start in Cape Town.I don’t believe in rushing to my destination and rather make the whole trip the destination.

Adventure Magazine

26

Day 1Cape Town to Baviaanskloof (636km)

It’s 2 am and I’m tired of rolling around in bed in anticipation of the trip, I might just as well get started.By 3h30 the bike is packed, I’m geared up, geyser switched off and rubbish taken out. With the push of a button my companion for the next 8 days barks into life. Riding down a surprisingly busy Buiten-gracht Street and on to a dark N1 my thumper seems eager to eat some road.

I make my 1st stop on the Du Toits Kloof Pass to admire and take a picture of the lights of Paarl. Foolishly I half handily balance my camera on top of my backpack on top of a roadside con-crete table and while I poseit falls to the ground with a thud. Luckily it’s still in tact and I got the picture.

A quick stop by the roadside garage in Worcester for some fuel and I’m off again. Now I can go almost 400km before I run out!

At Touws River I stop to rest and get something to eat. I’m dressed warm because experience taught me it get’s very cold on the other side of the mountain coming from Cape Town. Riding so early in the morning normally I’m frozen by the time I hit Touws River. For breakfast two meat pies from the

Adventure Magazine

2724 hour kiosk will have to do.

Just outside of Touws River the sight of a nasty accident, a mini-bus taxi lost control and rolled off the road sending it’s 20 odd passengers flying into the bushes, reminds me how fragile our bodies really are. I don’t want to stop, I don’t think anyone survived. I will be extra careful on the trip.

About 20 km down the N1 from Touws River I hook a right and after crossing the Trans Karoo train tracks I’m on my 1st gravel of the trip.

The road winds through farmland and beautiful rocky outcrops. A stunning little road, smooth sur-face. Here and there I cross cattle grids and small dry riverbeds, no bridges, and even stops once to open a gate. This road basically runs parallel with the N1 just 10 or

so km’s South. I can’t believe how much more rewarding the ride and scenery is.

Just after passing through the Rooinek Pass I decide to take a little detour to see a place called Rouxpos.

Stumbling upon a small hidden settlement I stop to ask accom-modation information for a future stay-over. A gentleman called Mziwoxolo Mfekrto bought some land there and built a couple of self catering wooden houses on the slope of the scenic mountain that dominates his land.

I was a bit short on time and as I indicated I had to get going his wife waved me back. Mr Mziwox-olo explained

it is African custom to give a guest a gift upon his departure and with that Mrs Mfekrto gave me a bottle

Adventure Magazine

28

of their best wine. Goodness, my surprise was only outlived by my gratitude. Nice to meet such pleas-ant people.

The Seweweekspoort Pass deliv-ered all it promised and before long I was in Calitzdorp. It’s midday and while refuelling I ask the petrol attendant where the best restaurant in town is. As he points up the street he explains I must go where the orange bikes are parked. KTM’s mark the spot I had lunch.

The original plan was to meet up with a friend living in George. He couldn’t join me for the whole trip but I still invited him to ride with through to Knysna and camp for the night in the Prince Alfred Pass, ride the next day to Uniondale where our paths would part again.

After numerous failed attempts to make contact over the last week leaving unanswered messages I realized we won’t be meeting up… Time to re-think my route. I’ve been in the Prince Alfred Pass before, even camped thereonce on my way to The Hell. I have not been in the Baviaan-

Adventure Magazine

29skloof before though.

As I wait for my lunch to come I undress layers of warm sweaty clothes because by now it’s really bloody hellish hot! Studying the map I plot a new route. The only problem is that I have no idea where I would get accommodation for the night if I head towards the Baviaanskloof.

After lunch I head for the infor-mation centre and there a most friendly kind lady called Erina sorts me out with information to a variety of accommodation near and in Baviaanskloof for the night. As a sign of my gratitude I leave the bottle of wine.

Braving the midday heat I make for Oudtshoorn and once there nearly bring a stop to my precious trip by running a red light. I have an old habit of looking around and daydreaming on the bike and not always paying attention to where I’m going. I realise what’s happening only when I see cars heading towards me from the side and come to a screeching halt! Very embarrassing. Luckily I live to screech another day.

South of Oudtshoorn I cross

country on a small gravel road that rises and dips as it curves along a river passing places like Daskop and Buffelsdrif. Once again the heat get the better of me and I make a stop under some treesnearby a farmhouse.

While resting some kids rock up on their bicycles. They probably saw me stop and came tohave a closer look. I break the silence and soon after they bubble with questions about me and the bike. Pleasant bunch. I can’t help to wonder how they pass their time in this desolate place but they

Adventure Magazine

30

assure me that the river and rockyoutcrops make for excellent playgrounds. They remind me of myself and my friends on the farm during the good old days.

I pass Uniondale without stopping for petrol. Just a couple of km’s down the N9 another small dirt road will take me to the Baviaan-skloof. This road has a good sur-face and at speed playfully offers up a couple of long gentle bumps to lift the bike off the surface. I am in good spirit but have to stop again because the sun is cooking me alive. Where the road cross a dry riverbed I find shelter under some bushes. This time there isnot a soul around and I take off nearly all my clothes…

Maintenance to the final drive chain keeps me busy till I have to get going again. The Bavi-aanskloof officially starts with the Nuwekloof Pass and while navigating what must be the last 15km’s of the day stomach crampssets in. There is only one solution. Hastily I search for a sheltered inlet into the gorge side, stop, out comes the toilet paper I always carry and within minutes Vesuvius is peaceful once more.

Without further incident I find my accommodation for the night. The Makadaat Grotte is my choice.Unfortunately the actual Cave units (rooms built into caves) are unavailable but the Aartappelka-mer (Potato Room, used to store potatoes years ago) on the farm-yard looks just as promising.After unloading my trusty steed I potter around the farm and eventu-ally retire to my Aartappelkamer for the night.

For an extra R50 the farmers wife struck me a dinner deal. Her family made an early Christmas gathering

this year and once they sit down for their meal she will dish for me a plate of what is on offer. I’m so tired that by the time the food ar-rive I’m fast asleep. A full spread of cold meat, salads and pudding it was worth waiting for though.Dankie Tannie.

Adventure Magazine

31

Adventure Magazine

32

Day 2Baviaanskloof to Barkly East (696km)

Waking to the early morning sounds of birds, sheep and a cock-erel I realise I’m finally on the trip I’ve so looked forward to. The sun is not visible yet but once your eyes gets used to the low light a crisp fresh world unveils.

Breakfast consists of what was left from last night.

As I sit down to eat a very friendly and somewhat intrusive cat makes it’s appearance. I love cats, so much so that there is no love left for dogs. I will share my food but since I need the nutrition my guest will have to do with the fatty scraps.

Through the open door the sight of the farmer, Oom Basie, taking

a early morning stroll summons me. I’d like to ask a few questions, meet the man who works this land and running out I leave the plate of food on the table.

Oom Basie explains to me that this valley and the neighbouring ones were once used intensively to grow vegetable seeds.

Adventure Magazine

33

The stuff that you’d buy in packets from the nursery if you wanted to plant vegetables. The area is perfect because each farm is separated from the next by the mountains and bees doesn’t travel through thus preventing cross-pollination.

Sadly an unfavourable economic climate, lack of modernization and in-ternational competitors brought everything to a suffocating stop. Today he makes more money providing accommodation for the tourists that travel through. As we stand admiring the massive tree that dominates this part of the farmyard I realise that the cat is still in the room along with my nutrition for the day… Damn it! Obviously he took all the meat. Kindly he left the pudding.

Backtracking for 20km’s I am reminded of the beauty of the Nuwekloof Pass/Gorge. Once up on the plato again a wide landscape unfolds in front of me. My goodness, we really live in a stunning world.

Adventure Magazine

34

In Willowmore I fill up with petrol and add some oil to the engine. KLR’s infamously use oil in large quantities and I have learned to check the level frequently. Down the street someone has done some landscape gardening by filling the trunk of an old car with soil and planting cacti inside.

From Willowmore there runs a small dirt road via the Swanepoel-spoort Pass to Klipplaat. I travel on gravel.

The road is a little beauty. Turns and winds, dips and rises. River and rock formations, wildlife and old farm buildings add to the in-terest. I’m the only vehicle on the road and thus enjoy clear air and have it all to myself.

Not far from Willowmore and still before the Swanepoelspoort Pass I stop near a farm workers house to take some pictures of road signs. Low water bridge crossings, one vehicle at a time and 90ْ turns are surely only found on gravel roads…

The backpack I carry my valu-ables in has torn open from all the wear and tear, trying to fix it I will have to resort to using safety pins but where to find some? The local grocery shop doesn’t have any but I do buy some Chappies and Nik-kerballs. The family running the shop out of the back of their house has recently taken it back from some bad Nigerian tenants. Re-minding me of my own little farm grocery shop I used to run whileliving with my family everything is neatly lined up in rows all the

labels facing to the front. Omo, Boxer, Lux,Lucky Star Pilchards, Sugar, Malt… Ahh, such distinctive smell.

Towards Jansenville the road is being upgraded to tar. Stopping to take a leak I notice more closely how the vegetationhas changed. Here the

Adventure Magazine

35

landscape is dominated by dangerous looking cacti. I’m glad I don’t have to farm this land. Finally I find some safety pins in Pearston. From here I’m treated again to a stunner of a little road going past Swaershoek and up the Swaershoek Pass. With a predictable and smooth surface I can ride

at speed as well as look at the landscape.

The day heats up quickly and once more I find myself looking for shelter.

Adventure Magazine

36

I underestimated the distance of my route and by the time I roll into Cradock I realize I’m running late.This though doesn’t deter me from taking another detour to see Lake Arthur and ride more exiting dirt but from here I don’t stop to take pictures anymore.

Riding through the edge of a thunderstorm I try to make speed but by the time I hit Dordrecht the sun is already hanging low. Passing through Rossouw and Clifford I’m on small twisty road. The landscape has changed dramatically now and I’m starting to see bigger and bigger mountains with those typical sandstone face.Once near Barkly East I open throttle on tarred road but soon real-ize something is wrong with the bike. She won’t pull above 5000rpm, that’s 120km/h. I’m too tired to be worried but do feel disappointed.Is this the start of the end of the trip?

As the last breath of dusk dissipates I arrive safely in Barkley East. From here I have to find my way to the farm of Wallace Hardy where I’ll be staying for the night. He is one of my dad’s clients and co-incidentally my dad is actually also in the area and has decided to join us. Getting confused by the dark I can’t find the farm but John comes to my rescue. John is a good old biking friend from our school days in Bloemfontein, joining me on the trip, he was the only one of three friends I invited to take up on my invitation to do a Lesotho tour. Wal-lace’s farm is our meeting point and wisely he arrived earlier.

The night is spent with sweet wine and vibrant discussion on every-thing from farm stuff to biking. Its also good to see my dad again. Wal-lace, having been a bachelor till recently, whipped up a delicious roast chicken dinner.

Being an old farmhouse, with 3 single beds standing along the one wall, the room John and I share is as big as my whole Cape Town flat! Good night John, good to have a friend to share the adventure…

Adventure Magazine

37

Day 3Barkley East to Matatiele (320km) From our bedroom window

we can see our bikes stand-ing in the garden under a willow tree. All green.Yes, we both have KLR’s.

This trip was one of the things that motivated us to buy similar adventure tour-ing bikes. John does also has a ZX14 and a Fireblade for stunt riding at home.

John had his own little ad-venture yesterday as he rode from Bloemfontein to meet up with me.

Adventure Magazine

38

Fiddling with his GPS he went off the road and smashed into a rock bending the crash bar.

Nothing serious but as it now rubs against the fairing he is adamant on bending it back before we head off.

I also still have to sort out my bike. She still runs but because the engine stutters at higher refs.I’m worried the problem might worsen and leave me stranded in the middle of Lesotho.

John is the 1st to realize the prob-lem lies with the air intake. Inves-tigating we find a totally clogged filter!

I recently learnt that one has to treat a sponge filter with a special oil but being new to the procedure I overdone it and because of the more than 800km’s of gravel road I’ve done so far the whole thing became just one big dust magnet.

Wallace, being a professional quad racer, came to the rescue with cleaner and new filter oil. Sorted!Using tools from the farm, a ham-mer and block of wood, John also manage to bend back the crash bar. He recently fitted GPS but there seems to be a problem with the electrical connections. Long last the bikes are sorted.

Adventure Magazine

39

At Rhodes we decide to go see the location of the Tiffendale Ski Resort. This takes up a lot of time but the ride is definitely worth it.

From here we are starting to be challenged by steep climbs and descents one after the other. Noth-ing we can’t handle but the road surface is covered in millions of small ball bearing like stones that makes sudden deceleration impos-sible. Inevitably I am caught out by a sharp turn with a camber to the wrong side and end up skid-ding off the road, planting the KLR between some boulders. I come off lightly with only my confidence dented.

Right on top of the Naude’s Nek Pass we came upon a 5 Star hotel. The luxury is unreal, the buildingbeautifully built. They have to run of a generator but the whole sys-

tem is self sustainable, given you put in some diesel of course.

Time is not on our side and we make speed on bigger roads to-wards Matatiele. We thought we’d ride all the way to Molumong in Lesotho today but given the sun is already setting again I can only laugh at my optimism.We will have to make an unsched-uled stop and stay over in Mata-tiele. Just outside of Matatiele, as we stop to take a picture of a

Adventure Magazine

40

rainbow and use John’s GPS to find the contact details of local B&B’s. Technology really make our world small, within two phone calls I arranged beds for the night.

While hanging around by the roadside I noticed a bike ap-proaching. With no shame I flag the rider down and to our delight we cross paths with a fellow adventurer. Bosman Spaarwater from Gauteng on his Dakar on his way to Cape Town!

Bosman’s Dakkie appears to be groaning under the weight of all his luggage. He explains that he’s got his full diving suit on board as he wants to test the waters once in Cape Town.

Adventure Magazine

41

The internet shop, video shop and fast food restaurant combo, Fer-nando’s, made delicious pizzas for dinner.

Having full stomachs we retired to our accommodation for the night. Right in the centre of town the Resthaven B&B provided hot showers and comfortable beds. The owner also has a job with a local security company.

As he knows Lesotho very well I use the opportunity to enquire about our route for the next day.

Adventure Magazine

42

Day 4Matatiele to Molumong (339km)

For breakfast we have what was left of the Fernando’s pizza from last night. Having stocked up with food & drinkat the local Shoprite we head for the Qacha’s Nek Border Post.

Some quick paperwork and for a minimal fee we are finally in the Mountain Kingdom!

Check out the aids awareness note.

Adventure Magazine

43

All along the road, which is still tarred, people stand seemingly with no other task than to look at everything that comes past. I can’t help wondering if they really have nothing better to do. This is a weird place.Nobody seems to be in a hurry to do anything. Here they still plough with oxen.

Riding along John uses every opportunity to entertain the on-lookers with a splendid display of wheelies.He recently started training to be a stunt riding artist and just can’t get enough. I am worried though thatthis sort of risk taking could turn

nasty. Following him I don’t con-centrate on the map in front of me.He has GPS. Eventually we realize we’re on the wrong road. While popping a wheelie he missed a turn.Backtracking, we decide to play it safe and top up with fuel at the petrol station we passed just aftercrossing the border. This mistake ended up costing an hour of the day but at least the bikes are filled to the brim.

Riding now on dirt the B45 road winds along the Tsoelike river with villages dotting the slopes. This road is a big artery into this part of Lesotho and big vehicles, like a truck with a Caterpillar on

Adventure Magazine

44

the back, still use it. All be it at a very slow pace.

Reaching Seshlabathebe or some place nearby we find some petrol pumps but quickly realize these haven’tpumped fuel of any sort in a long time.

From here we start to slowly climb up towards the bigger mountains crossing the streams that flow from their flanks.

Adventure Magazine

45

By early afternoon we are in what must be the most beautiful part of Lesotho, crossing the Matebeng Pass we are in exceptionally good spirit. Thunderstorms rolling in doesn’t even dampen the spirit!

Adventure Magazine

46

Approaching Sehong Hong we are challenged for the 1st time with some serious steep and rocky road.At one of the streams John flags me down. We just passed a taxi loaded to the roof and he would like to see it navigate the rough terrain through the stream and up the embankment. The taxi don’t seem to be in a hurry and just cruise at a donkey’s pace but it was worth the wait. Calmly as if an everyday event it scales the em-bankment with front wheels lifting off the ground, smoke bellowing from the rear!

Farther down the road one can see attempts of upgrading the road. Big earth moving has scarred the side of the mountain. This must be where the truck is heading… would be fun to see it navigate that stream! At this point we pass a 4x4 with what must be some tourists. A elderly man with pre-sumably his wife. They are goingin the opposite direction. We don’t stop to chat but as he passes me he shouts from an open window: “good luck!”He must recon we will have trou-ble riding where he just drove…

Adventure Magazine

47

A couple of k’s on all is revealed. A steep climb on a narrow road with rock, dongas and a near sheer drop to the bottom of the valley.

As we crest the top of this climb John loses momentum and topple over. Funny how quick the specta-tors gather. Nobody hurt and no damage done we hand out some of those Chappies and Nikkerballs I bought in Klipplaat and plough on.By now we are on top of the

mountains and here the road evens out. Some fast riding to make up time but eventually we are on smaller roads again.

This place is just so picturesque. I noticed a beautiful scene and want to turn around to take a picture but for no reason end up toppling over as well. John recons we’re tired and don’t concentrate well enough anymore.That may just as well be the case

Adventure Magazine

48

The sun sitting low again John is getting worried we won’t make our destination before nightfall.

How far still? I have been in Molumong before and will recognize the road but it still evades us. Just one more hill but by the time we get to the top another steep valley unveils.

As the sun leaves the day and night fall we finally reach the Backpack-er’s Lodge in Molumong.To my surprise and great delight an old acquaintance, Tom, is also here. Tom used to be the care taker but has since moved on and is working at the University in Maseru. He explains that it is a pure co-incidence that we see each other again because he is also just staying for the night passing through. Worn-out and desperately tired I brave a cold shower and after playing around with our cameras we settle in for a deep sleep.

Adventure Magazine

49

Day 5Molumong to Hilton, PMB (231km)

Molumong is a small village not too far from Mokhotlong. The Backpackers Lodge used to be a trading post belonging to some Scottish guy but that was a long time ago. A travel magazine would refer to the accommodationas rustic, that basically just mean single beds, water from a stream, no electricity and everything that comes with a lack of such privi-lege. There is though some atmo-sphere of calm and timelessness here. The people are friendlyand kind as well. You can buy what amounts to a fully stuffed bankie for only R10!Today we ride down Sani Pass

and all the way to Hilton near Pietermaritzburg where we will be staying with my aunt. Having had a exhausting ride the day before John is the last to get out of bed but in good time the wheels are rolling again.

From Molumong it is just a couple of km’s to Mokhotlong where we should be able to find petrol. After filling up at the Qacha’s Nek Border Post yesterday we haven’t had another opportunity. With an 400km (easy ride) range on the KLR we could try to make for Himeville just under the Sani Pass but decide to visit the town anyway.

Although I’ve been in Mokhotlong before I had no luck finding a ga-rage with petrol but as we explore deeper into the town we do find a legitimate station. It is run by a Chinese guy. Funny how they’ve infiltrated even this, what must beto them, a desolate and alienating place. They also sell cooking gas. All along little stalls selling food, clothes and other merchandise hug the road, donkeys strolling past.

Adventure Magazine

50

We don’t have a long way to go today and take things easy stop-ping at what must be a landmark waterfall to take some pictures. With three shepherds approach-ing us we use the opportunity to sample some local portraits.

After having climbed to the very top of the mountains passing nearby Thabana–Ntlenyana, the highest point in Southern Africa, we descend through long open valleys reaching Sani Pass Border Post in no time.

The usual picture taking at the Sani sign precedes our descend. I am surprised by how washed-away the pass has become in the last 2 years. Warily we negotiate steep downhill on lose rock. The pass separates the Lesothoborder post from the South Afri-can one.

I’ve always hated riding in some-one else’s dust and whilst John and I keep a good riding distance one can’t plan for other vehicles. As my luck would have it a police van has caught up with us, having already passed John, throwingup a moerse amount of dust! Not wanting to be enveloped I speed up and end up being chased at over 120km/h for the last 15km’s of dirt.

Making a stop to regroup at the intersection with our 1st tarmac on SA soil I am met by a very moody John. Coming down Sani he smashed into another rock, again bending the crash bar right close to the fairing. Nothing serious I’m thinking but he’s not a happy bunny… Climbing off he neglects to put the bike in gear and as it rolls forward and off the side stand I grab it just in time…

Adventure Magazine

51

While I warm a canister tire-fix against my body we engage in some motivational talk.

I’ve always had satisfactory results from tire-fix but firmly believe in warming it up first. In fact, they say one must fix the tube properly once in the nearest town but my old DR500S have been running on such fix on both tires for years.

Tire-fixed we have an uneventful ride on tar all the way reaching my aunt’s in Hilton by midday. The idea was to have a sort of a chill out rest day in the middle of the trip. After unloading the bikes and having lunch with my aunt and her husband (Oom Tony and Tannie Annalé) we set about trying to bend the crash bar back.

“ With this I also notice the front wheel is flat…Now John is REALLY not a happy bunny!”

Adventure Magazine

52

I felt that, since the metal isn’t ac-tually touching the fairing plastics having only bent 1cm inwards,it’s unnecessary to make an issue of it and rather not scratch where it’s not itching. John felt the bikedidn’t look like that and he won’t have it any other way…

With the exception of being invited to a 3hour Christmas dinner the rest of the day until midnight wasspent stripping the bike, bending, fitting, bending, fitting, bending, now it doesn’t fit the bolts, bend-ing,

it still doesn’t fit, more bending and so on…

We have much to thank them, while Oom Tony helped with the bike providing tools and all, Tan-nie Annale washed all our dirty clothes. Being a keen photogra-pher she also burned to disc our images and video captured so far thus allowing us to free up space on the memory cards for the 2nd part of the trip.

Day 6Hilton, PMB to Katse (370km)Fast riding right back on the same tarred road to Sani we fill up at Himeville for in case Mokhotlong doesn’t have fuel. Now we have to get back up Sani Pass.

With all the lose rock, climb-ing the steep turns won’t be easy but our fear is short lived for we manage to ride all the way to the top without falling.

Being Christmas day I didn’t expect to see any other bikes on the pass but to my delight we find husband and wife Lettie and Otto right in the middle. They are also on their way into Lesotho but only for the day.

Adventure Magazine

53

Adventure Magazine

54

By the time we leave Mokhot-long, our tanks filled to the brim, it’s already midday. We make fast progress on tar heading towards Mapholaneng on the A1. The land-scape is incredible, with the road turning, rising, dipping and rising again. Steep inclines but at a good pace. Making a stop at some little supplies station we are reminded of the dangers of these roads.

Just before we get to Mapholaneng the alternative road to Katse forks off to the left. With proper signs indicating the way to Katse I feel confident that it shouldn’t be too difficult to get through this way.The map though warns with “4x4 only” signs and from The Wes’s ride report

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=11097.40)I realise we should be aware.

This whole area feels like it must be in the middle of the mountain range, the plateau so to speak.The valleys are wider and the peaks further apart.

By 2pm we reach our 1st fork in the road that doesn’t give away the direction to Katse. Luckily there issomeone living on the hillside so

we stop to ask for directions. Ever since we 1st entered Lesotho pass-ing most villages the dogs would chase after John. This gentleman’s dog didn’t make an exception ei-ther but luckily, sensing no threat, calmed quickly and settled down in the afternoon sun.

This is the last village to be reached by vehicle from this side of Lesotho and from here it is clear that thetrack we are on is not being used by vehicles anymore.

Adventure Magazine

55

Riding along the road, which best be called a track from here on, it offers up one after the other steep climb.Imagine the steepest street in Bo-Kaap, narrow it down to 2-spoor, now cover it in rocks anything from the size of a tennis ball to a soccer ball, add some sections of bare bedrock with steps 20-30cm high and lastly throw in deep eroded dongas with a near verti-cal drop inches away. That’s what we’re riding now. 1st gear all the time.

Judging by the distance on the

map, now that we know where we are, we realize we should have put aside more time to cover this section of the journey. I feel a bit stressed because we will probably ride right until dusk before reach-ing Katse but won’t mind making camp if we run even later than that, but John is being consumed by his fears. Taking the lead he is starting to ride faster and faster. He doesn’t like the idea ofputting up tent in the unknown, he recons the Basotho will do us harm. Having been in Lesotho once before, on my own, I under-stand his anxiety but at the same

Adventure Magazine

56

time know it’s unfound.

The idea is to make sure you just ask the local chief if you may put up tent and offer a small fee as sign of gratitude. Moreneng means ‘place of the chief’, or at least that is what Otto said. By asking anyone: moreneng? We should be pointed in the right direction…

For John logic now lies in keeping his eye on the GPS in front of him and hurrying along trying to close the gap between two points. As we climb right on to another plateau, up up up, the road disappears for amoment and we just trek across flat lawn like grass. Almost fun. Finding the faint track again we get to another fork in the road…

Now I’m a bit lost. According to my map we should hook a right but I can’t be sure that the fork we’re standing at is the one marked on my map. Time to ask the locals I’m thinking but there is no one around. Ok, lets look at the GPS. No roads show up on the screen but if one looks at the di-rection of where we are and where we want to be we should be going left. I don’t trust this GPS. The correct roads here sometimesgo in the incorrect direction just to

cross a obstacle like a valley.

John makes the call, we’re going left. About a kilometre further, having already blundered down some steep section of the track, my eye catch some boys standing in the distance. I decide to stop but John is already so far in front that I can’t call him back. Calling the boys closer I ask about the road to Seshote. They can’t really speak English but understood me well enough to point out that we should have taken the other road. Oh bloody hell! We’re already short on time and now John is speeding in the wrong direction!

Do I try to chase after him and risk crashing? For as long as he sees my headlight behind him he will keep on speeding ahead. Or do I just stop here and wait till he real-ize I’m not coming and decide to turn around and come to look for me? I think the answer is obvious.

While waiting I use the time to chat to the boys and they even go along with me taking some pictures. They have about 7 dogs presumably helping them to take care of the sheep by fending off predators. Surely the dogs are mostly companions in this lonely

Adventure Magazine

57

landscape. What must it be like to hang around the mountain slopes guarding the sheep day after day after day for the years these boys are old? Imagine, sitting there with just the wind blowing across the grass in a timeless eternity. What do they know about our modern world?

Hearing his thumper in the dis-tance I am relieved John has turned around but by the time he stops nextto me he is boiling with anger. “Why are you not coming? We are going to be late! Do you realize how farI was when I had to turn back?” Suddenly the peace is broken. Reluctantly John follows me back to theright road.

(In retrospect, having looked it up on Google Earth, I now know that John’s road would have taken us toKatse never the less but it is much longer and a bit more difficult.)

Scaling yet another steep section of lose rock I feel my confidence slipping away and sure as hell lose controlof the bike. Jumping left and right I see in slow motion the front wheel rolling over the edge. In a desperatemove to gain control I keel over with a crack.

John, having anticipated I will have difficulty after he went up here first, comes running back to help pick

Adventure Magazine

58

the bike up. We have to drag her away from the edge first though.

There is an village on the slope and before long a couple of spec-tators have gathered. One lady even kindly help to roll away some of the biggest rocks to give me a clean start. This little inci-dent has brought back some cama-raderie and as we leave behind yet another obstacle we ride side by side.

Progress is painfully slow. We can’t make any speed because the rocks are just pulverising the bikes.At one point my eye catch the reflection of something flying off John’s bike. Stopping to see what it is I realize a big chunk of his skid plate broke off. My skid plate is still whole but has torn out at one of the mounting points.

Adventure Magazine

59

Back on two wheels again we ride along, now in the dark. It’s a bit scary because every settlement wepass I can hear dogs chasing after us but I can’t see them. One barking right next to me on the embankment give me such a fright I yank my leg up hitting it numb against the tank. These things are more like Hyenas!

Finally we come to the A8, a tarred road that will take us to Katse. I’m a bit disappointed that we’re riding this in the dark be-cause we can only see as far as our headlights shine and as we snake along mountain passes I am dying with curiosity as to what the land-scape looks like. Not having made any arrangements for accommoda-tion at Katse we waste more time trying to find a place to rest our weary bodies but at long last John leads me into the Katse Lodge.

First things first, we need to eat! After a delicious dinner meal with Christmas special malva pudding at the lodge restaurant we take the cheapest option for accommoda-tion and book ourselves into some room in a building with a commu-nal bathroom. A quick shower and off to bed. Thank goodness, we made it!

Adventure Magazine

60

Day 7Katse to Motsoanakaba (172km)

Last night’s ride seemed like a dream. It took us to this place under the veil of the blackest night. 1st thing as my feet hit the floor beside my bed I rush to the window to have a look at what the view is like. Wow! I could never have imagined.

The dam comes right up to the lodge as one would think it should but this is no ordinary dam, it’s Katse!The water lies in a valley that snakes it’s way through the moun-tains.

Today we will attempt riding all the way to Semonkong on a road that I’m not sure actually still ex-ists but we will try never the less. Having learnt our lesson yesterday we decide to get moving early not even wasting time on having breakfast. We do stop though to get a good look at the dam and obviously take some pictures.(The panoramas are courtesy of John.)

Adventure Magazine

61

With only the nuts we received as a gift for Christmas and 2l of wa-ter between us we set off for the last full day of riding Lesotho. The road from Katse to Thaba-Tseka is in good condition and we make fast progress.

In Thaba-Tseka we look for petrol but the station is all out, not even Paraffin! Riding this last section of the route that I planned more than a year ago will depend on if we can find petrol. We have enough to make it to Maseru but that will have to be on the straight road. Quietly I argue with myself. John had a tough day yesterday and I can sense he would rather get back home to his girlfriend today still that blunder into another difficult day of riding. On the other hand, we have so far been successful in riding the exact route we plannedand it would be a shame to give away the opportunity of a lifetime just because we are a little tired. We haven’t made an chance yet

to roll out our tents and camp. Semonkong would be the place we will do so.

The route I want to take will go off the main road from Mant-sonyane via Auray and Seng to Semonkong. Montsonyane being the last village that might have petrol. I decide that, given we find fuel in Mantsonyane, it will be a sign we can safely ride the route I planned.

Riding on mountain ridges the road offers up dangerous potholes and rock sticking out of the oth-erwise smooth surface. The land-scape is all inspiring.

Stopping for more pictures it almost seem like the Swiss Alps here. Apart from the Basotho shepherds of course. Them you only find here in the Mountain Kingdom.

Adventure Magazine

62

A quick search through the village and we actually find a petrol sta-tion with petrol! Our trusty steeds filled to the brim I am happy for the sign I’ve been waiting for. Let’s ride!

John doesn’t share my enthusiasm. As we rode his mind also worked overtime but he decided to pray to God and ask for a sign. According to John, God haven’t sent a sign yet. I recon it be best we actually chat to the locals and find out about the possibility of travelling from here

toSemonkong. As we stand argu-ing about the matter a lady called Thato introduces herself. Seeing these two helpless white blokes she offers to help as a translator. Thato lives in Maseru where she

Adventure Magazine

63

studies, English amongst other subjects, at some school and is only on a visit to Mantsonyane to see her mother.

I guess you could say we chanced upon Thato. She doesn’t know the area that well but after asking around on our behalf she breaks the news. “There is no road, only mountains…”

Damn it! I don’t want to give up now. I still want just a little more adventure. I am worried John will take this as the sign from God but luckily he doesn’t become any more stubborn than he already is. I insist on having more opinions. While John wait with the bikes Thato and I wander off into the village to look for a local 4x4owner that occasionally travels past Auray to deliver supplies. We don’t manage to find him but do speak to a couple of other villagers and now popular consensus is that we can travel the road.

Thato is concerned for our wellbe-ing and stress the fact that the road will be difficult but accepts that she won’t be able to stop us from attempting to ride it. She does

though point us to the local Police Post to getyet more opinions. Taking her address I promise to mail some of the images I took of us.

Leaving the petrol station and Thato behind John follows me to a small building that is the Po-lice Post right on the edge of the village. Brushing past a prisoner, feet chained together standing in the doorway, we enter a gloomy room barely bigger than a small bedroom. Inspector Makhetha sits behind his desk. Horse saddleshanging from the wall, paperwork stacked into the corners. The tele-vision and DSTV decoder stand-ing on the far side seems out of place. He doesn’t get up and just points to the little wooden bench instructing us to takea seat.

Adventure Magazine

64

The long and the short is that the Inspector is also a newcomer to this area and have to resort to asking the men with chained feet about the route we propose. They speak in a language we can’t un-derstand but the gestures are clear. A lot of pointing in the air, left and right and some forks in the road. Great!

John only want to know one thing: “what is the quality of the road?”To which the Inspector responds: “I just asked these men and they say it is very drivable.”

Sweet, let’s take the plunge. I managed to persuade John and keep on nursing the mood by be-ing very friendly. It’s just gone midday.

The road to Auray is in good con-dition and we make two stops for pictures and one to take a leak.John has relaxed and the spirit is high. Passing Auray we have to ask for directions as the road makes a fork but have no problem in communication.

Adventure Magazine

65

From here on the climbs and de-scents become steeper and steeper. Negotiating a steep downhill I foolishly follow John closely and almost end up crashing into him when he slips into a donga and falls right in front of me.

Now the mood is all screwed up again and, like yesterday, John speeds ahead. Refusing to stop even for a rest or drink of water. We haven’t had anything to eat to-day and I’m starting to feel weary.

Continuing to take time for video and pictures I end up falling so far behind a racing John that I don’t see himfor the next hour. Only his tracks in the mud surrounding the stream crossings reveal his direc-tion. I think he is back to trying to close the distance between the points on his GPS.

The road has now deteriorated to a track much worse than yes-terday. At this stage all is still predominantly downhill but I fear when the time come for climbing upwards again. Chances are that we are not even on the right way anymore!

I finally catch up with John finding him at the bottom of an insanely steep and rocky descent. He lost control, fell over and scraped to a standstill. Now I’m pretty startled too.

The hand gestures of those pris-oners flash in front of me. All that pointing in the air must have meant: “steep roads waiting for you silly bikers.” My dear Thato, we should have listened to you.

Deflating my tires to get more grip, I manage to make the descent without incident but having gone down where I don’t think we will get up again we have inevitably gambled away the option of turn-ing back in the hope op the road becoming better.

Adventure Magazine

66

Adventure Magazine

67

Reaching a temporary flat sec-tion we ride past fields with mielies and through some boggy marshland. A horse standing in the middle of nowhere makes for another obstacle as it is chained to the ground but the chain is solong it races left and right being frightened by the bikes. Having made it so far I’m pleased but when I look further ahead my heart races not from exitement but from fear. Short lived is our relief when yet another rocky decent blocks progress. This is insane! Engine switched off I use the clutch as a rear brake and thus keep both feet on the ground. Easy does it. These rocks will smashmetal and flesh alike. Rushing ahead again stubbornness makes John blunder down the wrong footpath and turning the bike around against this slope takes both our strengths as well as that of two willing Basotho boys. John is not in a good place right now. Fear and anger has taken over… At this stage John really urge me to stop taking pictures and making videos because, as he explained, we are in a situation of life and death and we should be concen-trating on getting out of the mess

I got us into in the first place. I, on the other hand, only saw more photo opportunities and dramatic footage for my documentary…

I’m a very persistent photographer but John has strong methods of persuasion. Fearing to lose all the footage I partially obey orders only sneaking out the camera when he can’t see it. Sooner than I’d hope I am caught out though and now things turn a bit nasty…

I realize that further headstrong-ness on my side will only ag-gravate him, turning the day into a real crisis, so from here I will be very obedient and helpful. As instructed I take the lead and head towards the last descentbefore the river. The usual after-noon thunderstorms threatening from the North.

As we ride we can see across the gorge to the other side where tow-ers the mountain we will have to get up.The track is clearly visible but what concerns me is the sheer steepness of it! Unlike the usual mountain pass that winds left and right up the slope this one has long sections that just shoot straight up. Like the roads we’ve

Adventure Magazine

68

been on the last two days erosion has done it’s work leaving deep dongas and lots of lose rockI’m thinking, please John, lets make camp near the river and call it a day. We haven’t had anything to eat thewhole day and our water is used up. Tomorrow we can attack this section with new strength…

Cresting the last descent I see what must be a mirage.

Adventure Magazine

69

I see two 4x4’s with white people. What the f**k! I must be dreaming. The bike stays at the top while I run towards the cars, large raindrops starting to saturate the earth.

Praat julle Afrikaans? I can’t ex-press my relief in English. Dankie tog!

Two families from Pretoria, hardy 4x4 enthusiasts, decided to take on this road but only from the other side going towards the North. Hello, what does the road look like? How long to Semonkong? We need to get out of this place because I’m responsible for get-ting us down here.

The response is as feared. It took

them the whole day to get this far having left Semonkong this morning. Just the last two kilo-metres took them two hours! The road is covered in lose rock and so steep they partially lost control of the vehicles during descent. The wives and children had to get out and look on while the menstruggled to get the cars down safely. Bursting into tears when things got too tense.

All is ok now and for me the sound of a familiar language brings a feeling of relief and ease.

Adventure Magazine

70

They recon wehave no chance at getting up the mountain, in fact, they are push-ing ahead because they themselves won’t get back up there. I shake my head in disbelief, what are we doing blundering down where we can’t get back up?

I am sceptical if they will make it the way John and I came but they seem pretty confident. The decision was easy. We will stick together and make camp at the 1st village back on top of the Moun-tain. This meant though we willhave to ride back up where we struggled so much to come down.

Leading the way the 4x4s make their way up the ridge with John just behind them. I take a mo-ment to reflect on the coincidence that just happened but regret the fact that we’re not going further towards the river. I wouldhave liked to make camp there for the night…

The 4x4s make it look so easy. They just slowly crawl up the track, stopping to roll some boul-ders, inching their way up.For myself and John it’s a differ-ent matter. The worst sections of the track is narrow and right next

to a sheer drop to the stream be-low. If one lose control of the bike it can easily jump over the side.

The problem facing us is that the track is too steep and the surface too lose to allow riding up it slow-ly. The bikes just get stuck, wheel spinning around in the rocks. You have to have momentum but once on the roll the bike jumps soviolently over the surface it makes for a hairy experience.

The Dogs I ride with in Cape Town would advise me to “stand up and open up” and although this technique works exceptionally well when we fool around in the dunes the Lesotho rocks make for a different story all together.Here a aggressive attitude might send you over a cliff or disembow-el the bike on a rock. Easy does it. Little throttle, little momentum and just keep it steady to ensure traction.

John opted for walking beside the bike, push-riding it up, while I hold on to the other side ensur-ing she stays upright. It works but takes a lot of energy. At one stage we almost go over the side anyway! John’s temper is about as jumpy

Adventure Magazine

71

as the beast we’re trying to wrestle up the track. Once through the worst section John gets back in the saddle and I give him a last push for momentum as he rides further up. Limping back to my bike, completely exhausted from theexercise, I’m thinking John will park his bike at the top and come down to help me but a while later I faintly hear him shout from the top.

Bloody hell, what is the matter now? Back up I go… My body is protesting, I’m totally exhausted, I’m crawling with no shame…Once in sight of John he explains that some Basotho has gathered round his bike and in fear of them stealing his stuff he can’t come to help me…

I will have to ride my bike up with no help. Sure I deserve punish-ment but hell?

Having had nothing to eat and

only 1L of water to drink my body doesn’t want to cooperate any-more. 3 Chappies for energywill have to do. With the beast between my legs I take a deep breath and launch forward. Dodg-ing the biggest rocks I hang on for dear life, front wheel bouncing, aaaaaaah. I bloody made it!

Ok, now only one more section, that place where John fell and slid to the bottom, and we’re on top. Here at least some Basotho boys helps to push me when I run out of momentum.

I wish I could say it’s my skill that helped me ride but to be honest I think I was just very lucky not to crash badly.

We are on top! The family’s have already started to set up camp. John has calmed down and doesn’t seem to be too worn-out.I on the other hand am totally f***ed, finish en klaar!

Adventure Magazine

72

Day 8Motsoanakaba to Nooitgedacht, Jagersfontein (428km)

Waking next to John in his tent we share I’m reminded of yes-terday’s ordeal. I take comfort though in the fact that, if all goes well, by tonight I will sleep in a familiar bed on the family farm. Breaking up camp we are closely watched by the local children. Clearly this is a sight they are unfamiliar with. I should admit to enjoy being a curiosity.

Motsoanakaba Primary School, what a remote place to build a school. Come to think of it, all the villages in the area obviously have children that need educating. Last night it rained a bit and as we make our way back to Mantso-nyane we encounter one after the other

muddy pool of Lesotho clay. I think it is fare to say we have had our share of adventure and would now like to get back to the com-fort zone we know. I am not the cocky rider anymore that came down this road yesterday.Sliding around in the mud I’m anxious for John’s mood and rightfully so because after only a couple of k’s his temper flares again. “Dis jou f***en skuld dat ons hier is en nie al by die huis nie!” Guilty as charged.

Speeding ahead once more I lose sight of John. The whole idea was to not ride alone for in case one of

Adventure Magazine

73

us get in trouble. Navigating the slippery 2-spoor I end up skid-ding sideways but luckily no harm done.

I finally catch up with John at Mantsonyane. From here we are back on main roads and as John instruct, we head back to the home country on the shortest route, I obey.

Filling up with cheap petrol just before crossing the border at Mas-eru Bridge I decide to shake hands and part as we are now in tamed land again. I want to thank you John. We had a tough time and my stubbornness, even

call it selfishness, was responsable for putting you in a situation that made you feel out of comfort and control.

Doing this trip and the roads we did was only possible if I could

Adventure Magazine

74

find someone to ride with me. Going by myself would just have been too risky. You were the only one to take up on my invitasion. Thanks.

My destination is farther South than John’s and with this I revert back to original plans by travelling on gravel.Reddersburg makes for another chance to get the camera out.

With the old girl turning 20K I realise we will have to celebrate her 21st before I get back to Cape Town, probably somewhere on the N1 crossing the Karoo.

Now I’m almost there, the family farm a mere ½ hour’s ride away. I will stay there for a week until my final return to Cape Town.

I would like to leave the end of my story for the video to tell. Don’t

you also feel such a lonesome sad-ness once a big exiting journey/holiday has ended? Now all that is left are the memories.

Adventure Magazine

75

Adventure Magazine

76

Adventure Magazine

77

Chain Maintenance http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php

Let’s face it, without your chain, you ain’t going anywhere. So why, then, do we ignore our chains for so long? Chains have gotten so good over the past 10 years that it is easy to forget about them. But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Which in motorcycling, an ounce of prevention can also be worth a pound of skin. There are really two main types of chains: O-Ring chains and Non-O-Ring chains. O-Ring chains have, as you would guess, small O-Rings built into them. The O-Rings are used to keep grease and lube inside your chain (between all the mov-ing parts). Non-O-Ring chains do not. Back in the day when O-Ring chains came out, many people

believed the O-Rings created high levels of drag. However, that is not the case. A well-maintained O-Ring (X-ring, Y-ring etc) chain provides less drag, requires less maintenance, and lasts a heck of a lot longer.

It is important to remember that the purpose of an O-Ring chain is to keep the lubrication inside. So based on that, there is little you can do to keep your chain in top condition, right? Sorry, but O-Ring chains require attention just like everything else on your bike. A true sign of a squid is a dry, squeaking, rusty chain.

A chain that is ignored will even-tually fail, typically by breaking. A broken chain will many times ball-up around the countershaft and front sprocket. When this hap-pens, your chain will rip and tear its way through your soft alumin-ium motor and will always result in engine damage (either from the chain flailing around or from the motor coming to an immediate stop). Sometimes a chain will get caught in the rear wheel, resulting in an immediate rear wheel skid. Rarely, somebody will get lucky

Adventure Magazine

78

and the chain will fly off the bike without making contact with any-thing while the rider coasts to a stop (this is rare). In either case, you will be stranded. More than likely, you will have some damage, be it be minor or major.

So now that we’ve established chain maintenance is probably a good idea, where should we start? Like all things mechanical, let’s start with lubrication. You should lube your chain every 500km’s of riding. There are many types of lube available; everything from basic wax, foaming wax, conven-tional lube to foaming conventional lube. Different lubes will provide different levels of fling and protec-tion. Typically, the more fling, the better protection and the less fling, the less protection. The hard part is deciding what level of fling/protec-tion you want to deal with. The less fling, the more frequently you’ll have to lube.

When your chain is without lube, it will build up a lot of heat and result in the chain stretching. Without lube, your O-Ring will also be exposed to the harmful ozone and ultraviolet rays, causing them to dry out, crack, and even fall off.

It is important (with O-Ring chains) to always lube your chain immediately after riding, while the chain is warm. Remember how we talked about how O-Ring chains keep the lube inside the chain? Well, lubing your chain while still hot will cause the lube to be drawn into the chain as it cools. Also, re-member that chain lube’s primary job is to lube between the chain and the sprockets.

Also, you need to lube your chain in two locations. Spray the major-ity of the lube on the inside of the chain. This helps prevent fling and will force lube into the chain when you are riding. You also need to spray lube directly onto the O-Rings. The best way to do this is at the rear sprocket, spin-ning the wheel as you go. Avoid the temptation to prop the bike up on the track stand or center stand, start the bike, put it in first gear while the rear wheel is in the air, and spray as the motor moves the rear wheel. The number of fin-gers claimed by this exercise is astonishing and a quick search on

Adventure Magazine

79

the internet will reveal images of people who have lost their fingers doing this (not just dummies, but experienced motorcycle mechan-ics). It is much better and safer to do it the hard way, with the motor off and the bike in neutral.

If you do this regularly, your chain will keep a high level of lubrica-tion but will also draw a lot of dirt and you’ll end up with a really dirty-looking chain. Dirt, as I’m sure you can imagine, is very bad for a chain. A good idea is, every 5000km’s or whenever you change your oil, to clean your chain. The easiest way to clean your chain is with a rag, a toothbrush, and kerosene.

Don’t use harsh solvents, like gasoline, because they can ruin the O-Rings. Spray or wipe your chain with kerosene. The best part about using kerosene is that it will clean your chain incredibly fast, saving you lots of time. I usually use an old rag and soak it with kerosene and wipe it over the chain until the chain is clean. Incidentally, kero-sene can be found at any depart-ment store, usually in the camping section. It’s traditionally used to run camp-stoves, lanterns and stoves. After about 20 minutes you

will have an immaculately clean chain and an amazingly filthy rag. CAUTION: Be sure you get “ker-osene” - not camp fuel or white gas. Camp fuel and white gas comes in the same can as kerosene but it is extremely volatile and will ignite astonishingly easy. Be double and triple sure that the can says “Kerosene”. Don’t trust the store clerk either, if it doesn’t say kerosene it is most likely white fuel and that is very dangerous.It’s also a really great idea to remove the countershaft sprocket cover and clean all the excess lube build-up that is around the front sprocket. If you let this stuff build up it can cause problems that you probably do not want to ever deal with.

Your chain also needs to be ad-justed properly. Of course, your owner’s manual will have exact requirements for your bike, but the rule of thumb is about 2.5 to 3 inches of slack. But what does that mean and why is that impor-tant? Slack is how much the chain

Adventure Magazine

80

will move up and down freely at a point halfway between the two sprockets.

You need slack because as your swing arm moves up to compress for a bump, the chain gets tighter. When a chain is too tight, it will bind on the sprockets, causing quicker wear of both chain and sprockets. A tight chain will also, over time, ruin your countershaft and your countershaft seal (the seal around the shaft that carries the front sprocket) and may even bend the countershaft. Also, a tight chain is more likely to de-velop tight spots. Tight spots are portions of the chain that stretch at different rates and cause bind-ing between links. So, why not just run the chain really loose? Well, too loose and the chain runs the risk of flying off the sprock-ets. Bad news! Also, too loose

causes a lot of slop in the drive-line. Example: twist the throttle, short delay, then lurching as the chain snaps tight, then loose until you are under heavy accelera-tion. Chain adjustments are very important, even though it may not be something you need to do very often.

If your chain requires adjust-ment, your owner’s manual will have the information you need to tighten/loosen it as there are many different types of adjust-ment. You will probably need to start by loosening the axle to allow the wheel to move. Then you can turn the adjuster screws, ¼ turn at a time, until you reach the proper adjustment. I like to turn the left one, and then turn the right one the same distance to maintain wheel alignment. When you achieve proper slack, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is still correct. If the wheel is crooked in the swing arm, your chain and sprockets will wear rapidly and you can even get into strange handling characteristics. There are two ways to measure alignment. You can grab a flexible tape measure (like what tailors use) and mea-sure from the centre of your axle

Adventure Magazine

81

to the centre of the swing arm pivot. Or you can string your bike up. Stringing requires you to get a really long piece of string and wrap it around the front tire. Then pull the lengths of string back toward the rear wheel. You can then use your calibrated eyeball to compare the strings with the alignment of the wheels. If your wheel is out of alignment, it will be pretty obvious. I have had a lot of success using the tape measure method. I think it’s quicker and more accurate.

After you are confident with your alignment, tighten everything up and check the slack again. Most bikes will to tighten chain slack when everything is snugged back down. So I have to set the chain really loose so when I torque everything down the chain is set properly.

But how do you know when your chain needs to be replaced? If you go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain, you’ll be heading in the right direction. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not

stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all.

While we are on the subject of chains, a very popular upgrade is to lower the gearing to make the bike quicker off the line at the cost of top speed. The quickest and easiest way to lower gearing is to buy a front sprocket with one less tooth. Simply replacing the front doesn’t require a new chain and will cost about R150 to do. How-ever, the disadvantages of doing this are pretty significant. First, if you are not replacing your chain at the same time, it will lengthen your wheelbase; that’s not such a big deal. But the biggest problem with dropping a tooth in front is you put a lot more torque on your countershaft. Possibly resulting in a ruined seal or worse, a bent countershaft .I know of more than a couple of bikes out there that bent countershafts within 80km’s

Adventure Magazine

82

of dropping to a smaller front sprocket - so this is likely more of an issue with high-torque motors. So the likelihood of this happen-ing depends on how dramatic the change is and the characteristics of the motor, but it’s good to be aware of this before making any decisions. We strongly feel that the best way to lower gearing is to add teeth to the rear sprocket. Depending on how dramatic of a change you want, you will prob-ably need a new chain. Usually, you increase four teeth in the rear to equal dropping one tooth in the front (but that varies greatly depending on what your stock gearing is). By changing rear sprockets, you have more control. You can go up by any number of teeth to get the result you want. I have typically only gone up one or two teeth in the rear to get the results I wanted. Plus, you are shortening your wheelbase. This is cool if you want to ride a track or a canyon. Another common upgrade you hear about is a 520 conversion. A 520 is a smaller, lighter chain. The advantage of this upgrade is you will have less rotating mass, less inertia, and therefore an internal dyno like a Dynojet will report a horsepower increase. It’s the same

reason a lot of people put lighter wheels on their bikes. However, you will need to go with alumini-um sprockets, because they don’t make 520 steel sprockets, and you will use up chains and sprockets about 30% faster. Plus, because they are a lot lighter, high horse-power engines can snap a cheap or worn 520 chain easily. Another disadvantage is that a 520 chain and sprockets can be as much as 50% more money than a conven-tional setup. The true advantage of a 520 conversion is the sponsored racer who gets a new chain before every race. Even the most profi-cient street rider gets very little benefit from this and will never notice any difference. But then there are replacement is-sues. Every new bike today comes with a link-less chain. Meaning there is no master link. Every link is riveted. While master link chains are still available, the best idea is to purchase a chain rivet tool (about R250) so that you can replace your chain with another linkless chain. I would not want to have a master link come apart on a 120hp engine at high speed. Yikes!

A common misconception with chain replacement is to change

Adventure Magazine

83

you chain and sprockets at the same time. This is only true if you use aluminium sprockets. If you use steel or factory sprockets, the rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. That is, of course, if you replace your chains before they are so bad they damage the steel sprockets. Unless you wish to change your gearing when your chain wears out, simply replace the chain. A good chain costs about R1000, and a rear sprocket can run around R500 or more. Even if the second chain wears out a little bit faster than the first

chain, you’ll still end up saving a bundle of money without compro-mising safety.

So, there you have it. The moral of the story is: lube often. A well-lubricated chain is quieter and has a lot less drag allowing the motor to spin the rear wheel without having to force its way past a worn or tight chain. And if you are lubing your chain every 1000km’s, you will be very aware of its condition for when it will need an adjustment or a replace-ment.

Adventure Magazine

84

The Great All RounderXL700V

Adventure Magazine

85

The Transalp came arrived on our shores in the form of a 600cc many, many moons ago. It was then replaced with a 650cc model that was available up until late 2007. The newer model Transalp, with the Deau-ville based engine, is a real gem. The fuel injected 680cc engine purrs along at freeway speeds and sometimes, should the right hand develop urges of its own, a whole lot faster!

Buying one straight off the showroom floor, there are little ideas flowing through the heads of buyers. To most, it’s merely a road bike or commuter. To some, it’s the samurai sword to their next adventure… just a couple of dreams away!Farkling (a term used for fitting extras onto your new motor-cycle) a Transalp seems pretty straight forward and indeed it is. But choosing the right com-ponents for the job at hand is crucial.

The screen is probably one of the most important comfort features - riding with too low a screen creates turbulence around the helmet, having the neck and head weave from side

to side. This is annoying and can create rider fatigue really quickly. The solution: an MRA screen with an extender. The extender is adjustable to a point where it should be able to set your custom wind de-flection to have you riding at a comfortable speed. Riding off-road has its dangers to you and you new found motorcycle. There is going to come a time where you are bound to drop it. Maybe not hard and not fast, but as soon and you get those first scratches on you new boney, it’s always a heart sore mat-ter. There are a couple of crash bars available for the Transalp such as the Givi, Kappa and SW-Motec stables. They pro-vide decent crash and engine protection, but let’s face it, they won’t protect the bike fully. Also there is a lack of handlebar and lever protec-tion on new bikes these days. Handguards such as Barkbust-ers could save your levers in the long run.Aftermarket pegs are definitely needed. The stock pegs are rubberised and do an appall-ing job at keeping the rider in the standing position. There

Adventure Magazine

86

Adventure Magazine

87

are aftermarket pegs available from Hepco & Becker as well as FASTWAY, just to name but a few.

Having your engine breathe and get rid of the restrictive gasses often helps for fuel economy, but then mostly you will have a gain in exhaust noise. Some prefer this, they say loud pipes save lives, but there’s also the issue of noise pollution in some places that you would normally consider riding. Remember this when opting for a loud exhaust sys-tem. Most of them have inserts available that lower the decibel readings and make it quite easy to ride in some areas stealthily.

On the pannier side, you need to decide what works best. Some of the Kappa panniers are thinner and longer than the Hepco & Becker ones. But usually the aluminium panniers look the part… I guess its func-tion over form? The alumini-um boxes are usually stronger and less prone to breaking… and did you know that they provide some crash resistance? Whether you decide to farkle

or not to farkle, the Transalp will fulfil most of the duty that you want it to and now that you know about the accesso-ries available, it makes sense to give the bike a decent look over when looking to buy your next steed.

Adventure Magazine

88

Adventure Magazine

89