ITALIAN - Adobes7d9.scene7.com/is/content/SAQ/eCatalog/Cellier/... · ADVERTISING SALES Sabrina...

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100% ITALIAN

Chefs Davide Bazzali, Emma Cardarelli and Fabrizia Rollo

FEBRUARY 25 AND MARCH 1030 WINES TO DISCOVER

THE LARGEST SELECTION OF PRODUCTS

EXCLUSIVE PROMOTIONS AND OFFERS

CELLIER PRESALES

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March 2016 3

Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice.

DIRECTOR – EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING – SAQSandrine Bourlet

MANAGER – MULTICANAL CONTENT MARKETING – SAQSophie Drouin

PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau

CONTRIBUTORS – SAQÉric Bertoldi, Dominique Brousseau, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Maxime Desjardins, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Stéphane Leroux, Martin De Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Julie Perreault, Alain Smith

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All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West, 20th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-657-2320 [email protected] NEW ARRIVALS, published six times a year, is produced and published by TVA Accès Inc. (www.tvaacces.ca), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing; Purchasing and Merchandising; Communications; Quality Management; Sales and Legal Services. SAQ headquarters is located at 905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark of the Société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to change without notice. Legal Deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9.

IN STORES

FEBRUARY 25 AND MARCH 10 30 wines to discover.

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INNOVATION, ITALIAN-STYLEReinventing the art of good food and wine.

SOUTHERN ITALYIts regions have wind in their sails.

VENETIAAmarones and Proseccos: two jewels of Italy.

ORIGINE QUÉBECMaple wine from Domaine Labranche.

NEW ARRIVALSDetails about our specially selected new releases.

ON THE COVER Montreal-based Italian chefs Davide Bazzali, Emma Cardarelli and Fabrizia Rollo revisit the cooking skills of their forebears.

UPCOMING EVENTS• MONDIAL DES CIDRES SAQ – MONTREAL – FEBRUARY 25 TO 27• SALON DES VINS DE SHAWINIGAN – MARCH 10• WEST ISLAND WINE SHOW – MARCH 17

INNOVATION, ITALIAN-STYLEThe heritage is ancient, the traditions are still strong, yet Italian winemaking is in a state of flux. New methods are gaining a foothold in the shade of Italy’s medieval castles as well as in its ultra-modern chais.

Built with local materials in an ultra-modern style, the Antinori chai in Bargino, Chianti, epitomizes

the way in which this influential wine-producing family, vintners for seven centuries, builds on its

historic traditions for the future.

March 20164

s Italy an innovator? When asked this question, several Italian experts briefly hesitate. The industry that supports the world’s largest wine producer is on the “mature” side, they acknowledge, before going on to discuss a trend

here, an advanced technology there, a new approach or a new appellation. At the end of the day, they seem surprised at the realization of just how quickly things are evolving in the country’s vineyards and chais, and in its research centres.

It’s almost as if they have forgotten the giant steps taken by Italy’s wine industry over the past few decades: the rise of the Supertuscans and the general improvement in quality of Chiantis, Brunellos and the like; the creative and awe-inspiring development of regions like Campania or Umbria; the revival of traditional varietals and adoption of international ones. And then there’s the amazing success of Venetian wines (see page 20), thanks in particular to the growing popularity of Proseccos and Pinot Grigios. Even when Italians are reviving old wine stocks, they are no longer producing, drinking or selling the wines of their grandparents.

So why does the old image of the industry persist, even among Italians? “It’s still an agricultural society that tends to distrust anything that draws people out of their comfort zone. In addition, the industry is fragmented and includes many small- and medium-sized companies that lack a recognizable brand or a strong competitive drive,” explains Elisabetta Tosi, a wine columnist based in Verona and a communications-technology consultant for the wine industry. Then, in the same breath, she adds that a number of industry players – large companies, in particular – are adapting to the advances in grape-growing, marketing and communications.

ON EVERY LEVELItalian innovation takes many forms. In Sicily, for example, Mount Etna wines (see page 19), and indigenous varietals like Frappato and Grillo, are attracting attention for their original and thoughtfully implemented styles. There’s also the rise to prominence in the industry of women such as Elvira and Enrica Scavino in Piedmont, the three Antinori sisters in Tuscany – who will eventually take over the estates made famous by their father – and Elisabetta Foradori and Arianna Occhipinti in the field of organic and natural wines.

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March 2016 5

Technological innovation, says Elisabetta Tosi, includes the use of smart sensors to measure in real time the temperature, humidity and grape maturity in each parcel of a vineyard. It also includes the implementation by the large co-operatives – like CAVIT in Trentino and Cantina di Soave in Venetia – of quality-control systems for their thousands of members.

Universities and research centres are working to adapt traditional grape varieties and to create new ones. Producers are also doing research. San Felice winery, for example, boasts a 1.6-hectare vitiarium that grows no fewer than 270 varietals for experimental purposes.

Meanwhile, researchers working for the Edmund Mach Foundation in northern Italy are using the revolutionary approach known as metabolomics to simultaneously analyze thousands of little-known chemical components to better understand phenomena such as the development of aromas or the effects of sulphites and

oxygen on the wine-aging process. Incidentally, metabolomics can be used to identify the “DNA” of a specific terroir or the origin of the oak used in the barrel in which a wine was matured.

IMAGE AND QUALITYChianti celebrates its 300th birthday this year with, among other events, a Giro d’Italia (Tour of Italy) race through its Sangiovese and Colorino vineyards. But even Chianti has embraced innovation, as its new Gran Selezione classification (see page 26) seems to indicate. Jeremy Parzen, the well-known American expert on Italian wines, describes the new top-tier Chianti category as a very creative solution in the drive to boost the region’s wine quality and image. “It’s a brilliant way to avoid the thorny issue of cru designation while giving consumers a new hierarchy in understanding the wines. It’s a great model that I imagine will be embraced by other appellations.”

Allegra and Albiera Antinori, two of the three daughters of the famous Tuscan winemaking family, on the family property in Bargino.

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INNOVATION, ITALIAN-STYLE (CONTINUED)

ITALY 2020

MARCHESI ANTINORI, PIAN DELLE VIGNE 2013, ROSSO DI MONTALCINO$29.55 12704355, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 300 (6 BOTTLES)

Created in 2012, in addition to the estate’s Brunellos, this cuvée provides a more accessible Sangiovese, and helps keep the best fruit for the more age-worthy wines.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

AROMASRASPBERRY, CRANBERRY, CINNAMON, WET EARTH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE

ACIDITY – MODERATE

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 20166

Parzen also notes that, in the wake of the huge popularity of Prosecco (see page 22), producers throughout Italy are rushing to make high-end, classic-method sparkling wines. After the Franciacorta and Trentino Alto Adige appellations appeared, the trend spread like wildfire – from Prosecco to Friuli (Ribollas) to Sicily (Nerellos and Grillos), not to mention the many new entries from Campania. “From Piedmont to Puglia, it seems that producers from all walks of life now have a classic-method wine...

If it continues like this, Italy will easily emerge as not just an alternative to Champagne but also as its competitor,” says Parzen.

Elisabetta Tosi is more cautious; she wonders if the current excitement over sparkling wines will fizzle out and they will go the way of the Italian Novellos. Trendy 15 or 20 years ago, these young wines are now largely ignored.

Whether in the realm of wine, clothing or design, Italians have always had a flair for fashion – with all its ups and downs.

From the left: Chiara Boschis, Maria-Theresa Mascarello, Barbara Sandrone and Enrica Scavino, four up-and-coming winemakers. Photographed in Piedmont, where the Scavino family estate produces its fabulous Barolos.PH

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ITALY 2023

PAOLO SCAVINO 2011, BAROLO$47.00 12533525, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 162

Created in 1921, this family estate is headed by Enrico Savino and his daughters Elisa (winemaking) and Enrica (marketing). A modern and elegant wine that showcases the intense character of Nebbiolo.GRAPE: NEBBIOLO

AROMASCHERRY, ORANGE, TOBACCO, LICORICE, INCENSE

BODY – FULL

PALATE – STRUCTURED

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 2016 7

IN STORES FEBRUARY 25 AND MARCH 10

Emma Cardarelli grew up in Montreal West, studied at the ITHQ, lives in Mile End and is the chef and co-owner of the Nora Gray restaurant in Griffintown. This quintessential Montrealer is intent on updating the classic Italian culinary traditions. (Nora Gray Restaurant, 1391 St-Jacques St. W., Montreal)

EMMA CARDARELLI ITALIAN FARE IN A COOL SETTINGAs a child, Emma Cardarelli used to dine out with her parents at Bocca d’Oro. At the time, the Saint-Mathieu Street restaurant was one of the hallmarks of formal, sophisticated dining in Montreal. “Elegantly tailored patrons and white linen tablecloths set the atmosphere,” remembers Cardarelli, formerly a chef at Liverpool House and today chef and co-owner of Nora Gray restaurant, where “the same high standards of cuisine as at Bocca d’Oro are maintained,” she says, “but within completely informal surroundings.”

That can mean using sweet and sour ingredients on the plate, as they often do in Sicily and southern Italy, where stuffing, for example, may consist of grapes, pine nuts, capers and lemon zest. In Cardarelli’s hands, the Italian quartet of sweet, savoury, sour and acidic is achieved with French techniques. “We appreciate

influences, but we don’t compromise when it comes to eating local or organic food. Here, the operative word isn’t ‘Italian,’ it’s ‘authentic.’”

Ryan Gray, the 31-year-old co-owner and sommelier of Nora Gray, maintains an elaborate wine list. He selects wines with the same dedication that rules in the kitchen. “The winemakers we feature are our age,” he says. “They often practise biodynamics, making natural wines or those that approximate this goal. Our customers are not big fans of Amarone, Barolo or Barbaresco; they’re drawn to different styles of wine. We respect seasonality, and we update our winter and summer wine lists once every few weeks. And when we all – chefs, winemakers and sommeliers – sit down together, we’re all at the same place philosophically: We want only the best.”

Italian wines are all the rage. Italian restaurants are highly regarded. Italian cuisine, simple and tasty, is everyone’s favourite. These successes originate in Italy’s age-old traditions of freshness and authenticity. But tradition, however strong or ingrained it is, doesn’t preclude innovation – as amply demonstrated in chais, vineyards and kitchens. At Nora Gray, Brïz, Il Bazzali and Il Matto, four chefs play fast and loose with Italian tradition while still respecting their roots. The results are tasty and trendy – proof that Quebec really does embrace Italian-style innovation.

FOUR CHEFS WHO DARE

March 20168

FABRIZIA ROLLO A FRESH “BRÏZ” IN MONTREALFabrizia Rollo was raised in Fabreville, Quebec, by Italian parents. Her mother and father hailed from Puglia and Latium, respectively. Papa Rollo did the cooking at home and became his daughter’s inspiration. After graduating from the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ) at 18, Fabrizia moved to Rome. “I wanted to learn the basics, which are important if you intend to be an innovator. Simplicity on the plate is an Italian ideal. It requires perfect mastery of techniques and zero compromise when it comes to the freshness and quality of the ingredients.”

Brïz – Fabrizia’s nickname, coined by Mathieu Cloutier of the restaurant Kitchen Galerie where she made her culinary mark after a stint on the TV program Les Chefs! – is now the inspiration of her partners at their

year-old restaurant – also called Brïz – on Saint-Denis Street. Everything here is handmade, starting with the cavatelli, rolled every Monday by Brïz’s grandmother, Nonna Rosa, who at 81 still rolls three kilograms of pasta per hour.

When it comes to food, this dyed-in-the-wool Italian readily embraces other cultures. “I’m under 30. I live in North America, in a multi-ethnic and multicultural city. That’s reflected in my glass and on my plate. I make koftas, a typically North African dish, and serve it with peperonata. I sprinkle zaatar on my focaccia!” Brïz admits that sometimes Nonna Rosa rolls her eyes. “So I prepare for her some egg tagliatelle with olive oil, basil, tomatoes and clams. If you give an Italian that sort of thing, you can be sure all will be forgiven!”

The 29-year-old chef spent her childhood summers in southern Puglia. “That’s why I like wines that evoke sun and sea. Call it a sentimental pleasure. I have a soft spot for Negroamaro and Primitivo wines. They have so much personality.” (Brïz Restaurant, 6950 St-Denis St., Montreal)

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DAVIDE BAZZALI A TENOR IN THE KITCHENIt was no accident when French and Italian chefs Benoit Leclere and Davide Bazzali teamed up to open a restaurant in Montreal’s Little Italy. Having grown up in Parma, Europe’s de facto food-industry capital, Bazzali adores the cuisine of his native land. But he has no qualms about acknowledging its limitations. “Italian cooking is essentially artisanal and therefore imperfect by nature. The French, on the other hand, are true technicians when it comes to cooking.” According to Bazzali, France and Italy need each other. In perfect harmony of course, which is exactly what you get at Il Bazzali on Beaubien Street in Montreal.

The BYOB venue is tiny, consisting of 25 seats, an open kitchen and a shop. Leclere and Bazzali

share cooking duties, and Bazzali, a trained tenor, will belt out an aria during dinner.

The 37-year-old Italian likes the idea that his guests can act as their own sommeliers. “They arrive with several bottles and decide at the table which wine will pair best with the dishes they’ve chosen. They end up being more traditional with wines than with food,” he notes. “They often bring Italian wines, perhaps because we’re an Italian restaurant, although our dishes occasionally include ingredients like coriander or guacamole, which would be a heresy in Italy! And that’s what makes Montreal so appealing to me. People here are open to different foods. I can cook Italian without the traditional constraints, and the food still tastes good.”


Davide Bazzali appreciates Montrealers’ relaxed attitude to world cuisines. “Here, it’s not at all uncommon to eat a gastronomic meal in a casual setting. In many cultures, that alone would be considered innovative.” (Il Bazzali, 285 E Beaubien St, Montreal)

March 201610

Rocco Cortina, owner of Quebec City’s two Il Matto restaurants, is a classically trained chef and a staunch admirer of the world’s great chefs. Early on, he actually learned how to serve food from a trolley. When it comes to cooking styles, Cortina stands with one foot firmly in the traditionalist camp and the other in the innovative camp. Although he serves it in a contemporary setting, his menu is largely based on the cooking of his mother, Assunta. She is the kind of person, he says, who never fails to “box the cooks’ ears” if recipe rules are ignored or shortcuts are taken. Rocco’s biggest concession to North American cooking, besides the presence of American bottles on the wine list, is probably serving pasta and meat on the same plate.

Cortina has created a warm and comfortable place, to the delight of his regular customers. “This is my home. And everyone should feel comfortable in my house,” he says,

resting his elbows on the counter at the Myrand Street restaurant, which opened its doors eight years ago. The second Matto, on Saint-Pierre Street, opened in 2011.

Il Matto is the nickname of Rocco’s father, Nicola, owner of the renowned Michelangelo restaurant in Sainte-Foy. Although “matto” means “mad” people flock to the restaurant all the same. “When people talk to me about Matto, it’s the food they’re talking about. ‘I can’t get enough of your pappardelle,’ they exclaim. I literally can’t take a single item off the menu!” Clearly, comfort food is always trendy.

Simplicity and quality reign at Il Matto. “Every chef I interview wants to stick a sprig of rosemary in the pasta or adorn the plate with a balsamic reduction. And each time, I say no. Balsamic is for salads!”

Rocco Cortina favours robust wines for pairing with his cuisine. His wine list features mostly Italian labels – from Venetia, Tuscany, Sicily and Puglia – and some from California, Napa in particular. (Il Matto, 850 Myrand Avenue, Quebec City)

ROCCO CORTINA STRIKING THE RIGHT BALANCE

March 2016 11

VENETIAN FLAVOURSIf there’s one game meat that Venetians particularly enjoy, it’s rabbit. They, like others in the Mediterranean region, often have it in a stew. When well-marinated in red wine, the meat tenderizes and absorbs all the flavours of the aromatic herbs before it is slowly cooked in its marinade. The result: a stew with plenty of taste and a thick, succulent sauce. For this dish, a fleshy wine is in order, and why not play the local card with Alanera? Dense and rich, with notes of cocoa and black fruits, the wine will hold its own against the stew’s strong flavour. Its supple tannins are well-coated with ripe fruit, giving roundess to the cuvée and making it a perfect accompaniment for this tender meat cooked in a sauce.

– Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

EASY GOURMET Rabbit Stew

MARCH 10

ITALY 2018

ZENATO, ALANERA 2013, VERONESE$20.25 12766821, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


The name of this wine, Alanera, translates as “black wing” in English, a reference to the Italian word for raven, corvino, which in turn makes it a tribute to the main local grape, Corvina Veronese.GRAPE: CORVINA

AROMASBLACK CHERRY, COCOA, JAM, PASTRY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 201612

COMFORTING MILANHere’s a pairing that reunites the best Italian traditions: cooking and the celebrated osso bucco of Milan, and vineyards and the renowed Lacryma Christi appellation on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. A sensual wine with fine aromatic richness is the way to go with these flavourful veal (or pork, as in our recipe) shanks, a meal that needs a medium-bodied and concentrated wine. On the palate, Mastroberardino releases notes of spice to accompany the well-spiced braised dish. And the veal stock in which the meat is cooked enhances the flavours, making the pairing even better. With this dish, featuring a tomato-based sauce and the freshness of the gremolata, the wine’s assertive acidity coats the palate nicely to create a harmonious whole. Strength and elegance work together beautifully.

– K.Y. B.


EASY GOURMET Osso Bucco FEBRUARY 25

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

ITALY MASTROBERARDINO, LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO 2014, VESUVIO$23.05 00972869, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


The appellation’s name comes from the legend that God cried when he saw that Lucifer had stolen a part of heaven. These “tears of Christ” made it possible for vines to grow on the Vesuvio.GRAPE: PIEDIROSSO

AROMASSTRAWBERRY JAM, CEDAR, COCOA, BLACKCURRANT, DRIED HERBS

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 2016 13


STEP 1In a Dutch oven over medium heat, brown the veal in the oil for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the celery, carrot, onion, fennel seeds, garlic and salt, and continue cooking for 15 minutes, stirring constantly.

STEP 2Deglaze the pan with the red wine and the Amaro. Let reduce by a quarter.

ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCEWITH AMARO

INGREDIENTS

500 g (1.1 lb) veal, diced or ground

60 mL (1/4 cup) olive oil

125 mL (1/2 cup) finely chopped celery

125 mL (1/2 cup) finely chopped carrot

125 mL (1/2 cup) finely chopped onion

15 mL (1 tbsp) fennel seeds, crushed

2 cloves garlic, sliced

125 mL (1/2 cup) red wine

125 mL (1/2 cup) Amaro liqueur

250 mL (1 cup) veal stock

Zest of 1 orange

5 mL (1 tsp) hot pepper, crushed

125 mL (1/2 cup) black olives, chopped

796 mL (28 oz) canned tomatoes

10 mL (2 tsp) salt

500 g (1.1 lb) spaghetti

45 mL (3 tbsp) butter

Grated Parmesan

Fresh parsley, chopped (optional)

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

6 SERVINGSPreparation: 30 minutes Cooking: 2 hours

STEP 3 Add the veal stock, orange zest, hot pepper, olives and canned tomatoes. Break the tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Simmer for 1 hour and 30 minutes, partially covered, stirring occasionally.

STEP 4Fifteen minutes before the sauce is ready, prepare the spaghetti according to the manufacturer’s directions. Drain, add the sauce and the butter and mix well. Serve with the grated Parmesan and, if desired, the chopped parsley as garnish.


March 201614

RUSTIC CLASSICIn Italy, it’s hard to ignore spaghetti, the national dish par excellence. Tomato is of course a key ingredient, so it’s only natural to reach for a red wine with a fruity and refreshing profile and good acidity. Teroldego, an indigenous grape from the Trentino-Alto Adige region, is an excellent fit. This Foradori, however, offers concentrated aromas of red and black fruits as well as more ample tannins. All the better because the pasta is accompanied by a tomato sauce with nicely seared cubed or ground veal that gives it a meaty character and a roasted touch, flavours that combine perfectly with the wine’s woody mouthfeel. And the herbs bring out the delicate taste of the veal and play up the spicy notes that distinguish this northern Italian cuvée.

– K.Y. B.

Spaghetti with meatballs may sound Italian but it’s rare in Italy. In our recipe of this classic North-American dish, the sauce approximates the flavours in a Bolognese meat stew. Our sauce also includes red wine and Amaro, a typically Italian bittersweet liqueur.

FEBRUARY 25

ITALY 2020

FORADORI, TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO 2013, VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI$31.50 12825835, 750 ML, 12% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 288 (6 BT)

This delicious wine is yet another testimony of Elisabetta Foradori’s love for Teroldego, the red native grape from the high altitude vineyards of Trentino-Alto Adige, in northern Italy.GRAPE: TEROLDEGO

AROMASCHERRY, BLUEBERRY, FLORAL NOTES, BLACK OLIVE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 2016 15


THE SOUTH IS HOT!For wine lovers hungering for diversity and originality, southern Italy is the region to watch closely – and to relish.

ooking for a wine that’s warm on the palate and bursting with ripe fruit? The South of Italy is for you. Have an affinity for fresh, mineral and vibrant wines? Then the South of Italy is also for you.

Now more than ever, the bottom of the Italian “boot” is proving that its terroirs and grapes are truly distinctive. Over and above the deals (still to be found), the region has become trendy. From Campania to Sicily, while passing through Puglia, a slew of producers are crafting wines with loads of character and personality. Certain estates have been doing this for some time, of course. Mastroberardino Winery’s Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, made from the Piedirosso grape, is a good example of the structured and unique wines from the Campania region, situated near Naples. In Sicily, producers such as Arianna Occhipinti and her uncle Giusto, of COS winery, are bringing to the fore grapes like Frappato, with its Pinot Noir-like finesse. Other estates with a more modern spirit – Planeta and Donnafugata, to name just two – emphasize the exuberant Nero d’Avola grape or blend local and international varietals. There are all kinds of discoveries to be made, including the distinctive Etna wines and Puglia’s Primitivos and Negroamaros, which offer great value. Above all, expect numerous surprises, such as Marco De Bartoli’s Grillo Vignaverde. With its 11.5-percent alcohol and freshness to spare, this wine has what it takes to steal the north’s Chablis and Muscadet lovers – even if it is from the south.

Italian Terroirs and Grapes

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Piero Mastroberardino is one of Campania’s leading wine producers. Like his father, Antonio, a passionate advocate of indigenous varietals, Piero is a proud supporter of the shift to quality in the wines of southern Italy.

March 201616

Naples’ historic centre is a vibrant neighbourhood, dotted with bars and cafés and traversed by Via Spaccanapoli, a long, narrow street that changes names as it proceeds. In a stretch called Via San Biago dei Librai, a waitress strikes a pose outside Caffè Elena. Along other sections, wood-oven aromas waft from a host of trattorias. This is hardly a surprise since it was right here that the queen of pizzas, the margherita, was created.

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THE SOUTH IS HOT! (CONTINUED)

A TASTE OF SICILYFor food and wine lovers, Sicily holds some delightful surprises. Eggplant, black olives and tomatoes are at the heart of the island’s culinary heritage and feature prominently in numerous recipes. When it comes to wine, Nerello Mascalese, a red grape growing on the slopes of Mount Etna, produces complex wines like the Terre Nere with rich, sunny flavours that work perfectly with this type of dish. If the veal’s tenderness and the eggplant’s sweetness answer to the suppleness of the wine, it is the olives that unveil this cuvée’s aromatic strength and underscore its intense floral and black-fruit notes. The tomatoes bring freshness to the dish and blends into the grape’s natural acidity. A happy marriage of Mediterranean flavours.

- Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

EASY GOURMETVeal Cutlets With Eggplant and Olives

March 201618

• A rich heritage Although the de Grazia brothers recently planted a few hectares of vines, they depend primarily on the old and very old vines planted by previous growers at 700 and 900 metres in rocky volcanic soil covered by black pumice and ash. Most are between 50 and 100 years old, but in one parcel the vines are almost 140 years old, having survived phylloxera!

• An extreme terroir “When I first tasted Etna wine, even though it was rough and tough, I saw something in it,” de Grazia recently explained to the Wall Street Journal. “As soon as people come here and see this land, they get what this wine is about. You see the veins of magma. You understand why a tiny plot higher up the slopes is different from the vines next to my house.”

AT A GLANCETerre Nere’s organically cultivated estate covers more than 30 hectares of land on the north slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily.

Marco de Grazia, who first came to prominence exporting wines from dozens of Italian estates, started Terre Nere with his brother Sebastian in 2002.

The vineyards grow only local grapes like the red Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, and the white Carricante.

The altitude, soils and grape varietals particular to the Etna terroir contribute to the unique personality of the Tenuta delle Terre Nere wines, among the best in the appellation.

ITALY TENUTA DELLA TERRE NERE, TERRE NERE 2014, ETNA$25.10 12711176, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 300 GRAPES: NERELLO MASCALESE, NERELLO CAPPUCCIO

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• Energy and elegance Just like the terroir, the estate wines are full of character. White and red alike, the cuvées are nervous and structured, with a fruity freshness and ample minerality and complexity, all worked with considerable finesse. A character quite distinct from the warm roundness typical of other Sicilian wines.

• Constant recognition The unique qualities of Terre Nere wines are continually acknowledged in international industry publications. The cuvées are regularly crowned tre bicchieri by Gambero Rosso, and in its last round of tasting notes, The Wine Advocate awarded every single wine from the estate more than 90 points!

FEBRUARY 25

BEHIND THE WINE TERRE NERE | SICILY

AROMASBLACK CHERRY, RASPBERRY, CHERRY PIT, BAKING SPICE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PRIDE AND PERFORMANCEItaly’s leading wine-producing region has conquered the planet thanks not only to its terroir but also to crafting palate-pleasing wines.

Venetia

March 201620

n the world of wine, no other region in Italy embodies terroir, cuisine, history, innovation and business acumen as well as – or more in one fell swoop than – Venetia. While the region evokes romantic images of canals in Venice and balconies

in Verona, its reality is much more modern and commercial. If Venetia has become the main wine-producing region

in the country by volume, it won that crown by satisfying the international markets’ desire for low prices. Worldwide, the region’s large producers deliver simple and affordable Pinot Gris and Proseccos.

Venetian wine-growing, however, has a more complex identity. Stretching from the banks of Lac de Garde in the Alps to the Austrian border, a slew of terroirs yield distinctive wines. And with 40 appellations, the region has a vast selection of unique and personality-driven wines to discover.

The Classico zones of the large appellations such as Soave, Valpolicella and Bardolino, located on the finest hillsides rather than overly fertile plains, best express the terroir. Veritable gems can also be found in lesser-known regions, like Lugana, Colli Berici, Colli Euganei and Breganze.

VENETIAN DELIGHTSYou can’t discuss wine without also discussing cuisine – this is Italy, after all! Even for young Venetians, cocktails mean Prosecco accompanied by savoury munchies. When it comes to white wine, a Soave with character like those from Pieropan and Prà, is a delight with simple and succulent regional dishes like risi e bisi (risotto with peas). As for reds, flavourful game meats – including horse in the Verona region – pair perfectly with local wines, which are invigorating thanks to their acidity and tannic structure.

At the end of a meal, dolci like tiramisu, doughnuts and zaleti – those small, delicate cookies – can be served with a little sweet wine produced by the technique of passerillage. Recioto della Valpolicella, Recioto di Soave, Recioto di Gambellara and Torcolato are all produced using this technique – and Venetia has become a veritable specialist.

Located along the shores of Lake Garda in San Lorenzo, Hotel Bellevue is surrounded by olive, cypress and magnolia trees. The coast is dotted with small villages, each more charming than the next. For those thinking of taking a wine vacation, the region of Verona is rife with vineyards where visitors can sample Veneto wines, because everyone knows everything tastes better right from the source.

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ITALY 2020

BAROLLO MARCO E NICOLA, BAROLLO FRANK! 2012, VENET0$22.95 12717851, 750 ML, 13.5 % ABV


Check your spelling! This totally Venetian wine is not to be confused with the Barolos of Piemonte. It shows a different side of Cabernet Franc, which has been planted in Venetia for well over a century.GRAPE: CABERNET FRANC

AROMASPLUM, BLUEBERRY, TOBACCO, FLORAL NOTES, BALSAMIC NOTES, BAKING SPICE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 2016 21


The most renowned Venetian specialty is also the most sparkling, and it shocked the wine world at the start of 2014: Global sales of Prosecco surpassed those of Champagne. The sparkling wine has continued gaining in popularity ever since, thanks in large part to its affordability.

Hats off to the region’s winemakers, who triumphed with a distinctive wine that sets itself apart by grape varietal as well as by style and production methods. Prosecco is produced with at least 85-percent Glera and rounded out with 15-percent other local grapes.

Its effervescence is also lighter than that of Champagne and other wines produced using the traditional method. For Prosecco, the atmospheric pressure is two to four bars, rather than six bars for Champagne and the

like. It is also mainly produced according to the cuve close method (also known as the charmat or closed tank method), meaning the second fermentation is done in large stainless steel tanks, rather than in bottles, making the wine more affordable.

SWEET, SALTYThe result: fruit-focused wines that are light and easy to drink. Prosecco is also more often than not a bit sweet, with an extra-dry or dry classification (from 12 to 32 grams of residual sugar per litre, compared to sparkling wines classified as brut, which contain 0 to 12 grams). It’s a sweetness that certainly has something to do with Prosecco’s popularity.

That said, the best Proseccos are demi-sec or almost dry wines, with simple but clear aromas

PRIDE AND PERFORMANCE (CONTINUED)

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PLANET PROSECCO

March 201622

of apple, peach and white flowers. Venetian aperitifs par excellence, they are also the basis of the famous Bellini cocktail (one part peach purée, two parts Prosecco, served in a flute), created at Harry’s Bar in Venice.

With a natural synergy, Prosecco is made to measure for Venetian cuisine, often bringing together sweet and salty flavours, like sarde in saor (sardines with onions, vinegar and raisins). Try serving it with an appetizer of melon and prosciutto, or cheese and apple slices, or an arugula salad with pears and Parmesan. And of course, Prosecco is a choice companion to fish and seafood, marinated or simply pan-fried with a bit of olive oil and lemon juice.

ON THE HUNTFans of Processo can also take solace in the efforts Venetians have made to protect the product and improve its quality. To wit,

Prosecco recently became a DOC with a protected geographical designation of origin, the only zone where the name Prosecco can be used. The production zone, the largest in Italy, covers more than 14,000 hectares, in four provinces of the neighbouring Frioul region and five provinces in Venetia. Historically, the heart of production remains north of Venice on the slopes between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene (names included in the appellation of the most sought-after wines). Winemakers now want to gain recognition for the best crus – like Cartizze, the most renowned terroir in the Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOCG. These excellent apellations also produce more and more top-quality cuvées, always starting with the Glera grape, but using the traditional production method. Venetians sure know how to adapt…

ITALY SANTA MARGHERITA, VALDOBBIADENE, PROSECCO SUPERIORE$19.95 12509154, 750 ML, 11.5% ABV


Proseccos differ from traditional method sparkling wines because their second fermentation is done in closed tanks, rather than in bottle, which means they don’t show the brioche notes from lees aging.GRAPE: GLERA

MARCH 10

AROMASAPPLE, PEACH PIT, ALMOND

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 2016 23


RISOTTO RULES

EASY GOURMET Red-Wine Risotto

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

In northeastern Italy, there’s a risotto on every dinner table. This popular dish has a creamy texture that can easily be “personalized” by adding regional aromas and flavours. In Verona, risotto is often laced with the colour and aromas of Amarone. Redolent of dark fruit and licorice, this rich and full-bodied wine also pairs well with the dish. Roasted figs enhance the pairing, echoing the wine’s preserved-fruit flavours, while the pancetta delivers grilled and smoky notes that are also present in the cuvée. A bold and satisfying combination.

PRIDE AND PERFORMANCE (CONTINUED)

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ITALY 2022

SALVALAI 2011, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO$32.75 11034345, 750 ML, 15% ABV


Amarone, the legendary wine of Venetia, is perfect for those who love big, rich reds with lots of character, a style reinforced by the partial drying of the grapes before vinification.GRAPES: CORVINA, RONDINELLA, MOLINARA

MARCH 10

AROMASCANDIED CHERRY, PLUM, COCOA, ANIMAL NOTES, CEDAR, BAKING SPICE

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

March 201624


Amarone and Parmesan are one of the most classic pairings in the Italian repertoire. Try it yourself: Savour a piece of Parmesan with a drop of excellent-quality balsamic vinegar – or honey on occasion – then take a sip of Amarone della Valpolicella. They go so well together you’ll want to do it again, just to be sure!

Considered one of the greatest Italian red wines along with Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino, Amarone is yet more proof of Venetian adaptability.

In the past, the best-known Venetian wine was Recioto della Valpolicella. A dessert wine, sweet and smooth, Recioto was produced from grapes that were left to dry for several months in order to concentrate the sugars and flavours. But once upon a time, one barrel of Recioto was overlooked and the fermentation continued, leaving a wine that was at once dry and full-bodied, with a distinct bitterness. Thus, the name Amarone (amaro means bitter in Italian). So while it was initially considered a mistake, it quickly became popular – and has been deliberately produced this way since the mid-twentieth century.

Amarone is still produced by the grape-drying method of passerillage (appassimento in Italian), which concentrates the sugars and flavours, and mellows the tannins. The wine easily surpasses

EMPEROR AMARONEthe 15-percent alcohol content and can stand a long aging process.

PAIRING AND SERVINGAs you can imagine, the perfect food-Amarone pairing is quite opposite to a food-Prosecco pairing. Think game meats, duck and braised meats. Play with flavours like sour cherry, cherry, dried cranberry, chocolate, anise and sweet spices. Add Port, mushrooms, or even a dried-fruit reduction. At the end of a meal, there’s nothing like aged Parmesan drizzled with a bit of aged balsamic vinegar.

It’s best to decant Amarone to help it express itself more fully, to serve it at around 17°C to 18°C, and to sip it slowly. Its flavours will continue to develop throughout the tasting process. In short, it’s a meditation wine, or vino di meditazione, as Italians say. Venetians will tell you that sometimes it’s worth taking things slowly.

March 2016 25

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WINE REGION CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE | TUSCANY

• Promise and quality Few Italian regions have known such a dramatic transition for the sake of quality as Chianti, where beyond the iconic straw-wrapped bottles, we’ve witnessed the emergence of full-bodied wines that often have considerable promise and good aging potential.

• Gran Selezione In 2011, the Consorzio del Vino Chianti Classico – the production regulator in Chianti’s most important and most renowned sub-appellations – initiated the creation of a new level of quality. Its laws adopted since 2014, the Gran Selezione category now is reserved for cuvées that meet especially strict criteria.

• Serious wines only To earn the appellation, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines must be produced from a winery’s own vineyards – buying grapes is out of the question. They must also have a 30-month maturation period, partly in bottles, and meet the minimum requirements for acidity, alcohol level and concentration. They must also address the organoleptic criteria of dryness, persistence and balance.

• The best is yet to come Because of their long aging, the first cuvées produced specifically in concert with the appellation are just beginning to come on the market. Bruce Sanderson, senior editor and tasting director with Wine Spectator, sees this new appellation as a “guarantee of authenticity” and of quality, noting that the region’s most prestigious estates take their work very seriously. The time has come to discover what these wines are made of – and how many years they can be cellared.

MARCH 10

ITALY 2025

IL MOLINO DI GRACE, IL MARGONE GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, CHIANTI CLASSICO$41.50 12724971, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


When American businessman Frank Grace bought this property in 1995, it was a way to bring his passions for art and wine into a new project. His first wines were released in 1999.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

AROMASCHERRY, LICORICE, TEA, LEATHER, GRAPHITE, FOREST FLOOR

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

V 91 WS 90

Born from passion and pride.

It’s the savoir faire of producers, their craft and their land.

It’s heart and soul, it’s the sun, wind, snow.

It’s our wine, our meads, our ciders, our maple

products and our berry liqueurs.

It’s who we are, our diversity, our dreams.

Born from our hunger to explore, to encourage

and share this place our home, Quebec.

W I N E C I D E R M A P L E B E R R I E S M E A D

AVA I L A B L E AT

A GATHERING OFGOOD TASTE

158295-MAPAQ-ANG.pdf 1 2015-12-11 14:07

Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.

AT A GLANCE

SUGAR – MEDIUM

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR – OFF DRY

LOUIS DESGROSEILLIERS DOMAINE LABRANCHE

AROMASMAPLE WATER, SPONGE TOFFEE, BEESWAX, CITRUS ZEST, FLORAL NOTES, HAZELNUT

QUEBEC DOMAINE LABRANCHE, MAPLE WINE$18.95 12204924, 500 ML, 12.5% ABV

MAPLE-AND-DIJON-MUSTARD-GRILLED SALMON

Regarding the Quebec culinary landscape, Louis DesGroseilliers recognizes the privileged position Domaine Labranche is in. “My father, Marcel, is an entrepreneur who has taught us the importance of developing products that put quality before everything else. If we’re a success, it’s because of our parents and their efforts,” says one of Quebec’s youngest winemakers.

Discover the world of Origine Québec products at the SAQ at www.saq.com/originequebec-en

• What is maple wine? It’s wine crafted 100-percent from maple. “There is absolutely no mixing among our three main raw-food commodities – maple sap, apples and grapes,” specifies Louis DesGroseilliers. “Maple syrup is mixed with maple water, a blend to which yeasts are added to bring about fermentation, just like we’d do for a cider or mead.” This maple liquid, to which no sugar or alcohol is added, becomes maple wine, sparkling maple wine or maple liquor.

• Drinking maple DesGroseilliers admits he loves maple products. “But maple wine isn’t a sweet product,” he insists. “You expect a fruity aroma and an aromatic profile reminiscent of maple, but it’s actually a semi-dry wine – wine enthusiasts are quite surprised when they drink it for the first time.”

• Pride abroad Domaine Labranche has become a proud ambassador of Quebec products on the international scene. “We have great exposure in several New York restaurants. Furthermore, the Chinese and the Japanese are fond of our maple wines and our fire ciders. That said, they have to shell out two to three times our local price to indulge – so it’s a steal for Quebecers! One of our greatest challenges over the next two or three years will be to double our production without altering the quality of the product,” DesGroseilliers says.

• Perfect pairing The sparkling maple wine is excellent as an aperitif, and the maple liquor is a choice digestif. At labranche.ca, Chef Laurent Godbout suggests pairings for the estate’s various products. “With the maple wine,” says DesGroseilliers, “he suggests French onion soup with pancetta and Gruyère, or mussel casserole with maple wine and blue cheese, which are all the rage.”

In 2009, the four DesGroseilliers brothers joined their parents in managing the family estate in Saint-Isidore-de-Laprairie. Domaine Labranche comprises a cabane à sucre, a cidery and a vineyard.

At 23 years old in 2013, family winemaker Louis was the first to sell maple wines to the SAQ.

To date, 70 percent of production is dedicated to maple liquor and 25 percent to ice and fire ciders. White and red wines make up the remaining 5 percent.

FEBRUARY 25

V 91

ITALY CASTELLANI, ESSENZA 2014, PUGLIA$15.90 10675571, 750 ML, 13% ABV


Although Sangiovese is present almost everywhere in Italy, blending it with Primitivo is a distinctive signature of the Puglia region – the “heel” of the Italian “boot”.GRAPES: PRIMITIVO, SANGIOVESE

ITALY CANTINE LUNGAROTTI, L’U 2012, UMBRIA$18.80 12717463, 750 ML, 13% ABV


Founded in the early 1960s by Giorgio Lungarotti, this major producer has played a key part in bringing more attention to the wines of Umbria, often left in the shadow of their Tuscan neighbours.GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, MERLOT

AROMASPLUM, CINNAMON, COFFEE, VANILLA

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASCANDIED FRUIT, RASPBERRY, CHOCOLATE, PASTRY, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – DISCREET

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PAPPARDELLE WITH BRAISED BEEF

LAMB BURGER’S WITH BLUE CHEESE

ITALY SERGIO MOTTURA, POGGIO DELLA COSTA (BIO) 2014, CIVITELLA D’AGLIANO$22.30 10782309, 750 ML, 14% ABV


The famous Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso presents this estate as “the greatest interpreter of Grechetto in the world,” a grape with a tasty profile that happens to be Sergio Mottura’s favourite.GRAPE: GRECHETTO

ITALY ALOIS LAGEDER, GAUN 2014, ALTO ADIGE$25.40 00742114, 750 ML, 13 % ABV


Alois Lageder, the fifth generation at the helm of the family estate, is representative of Alto Adige. This cuvée, made according to biodynamic principles, is magnificently complex, thanks to aging on lees.GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

ITALY MARCO DE BARTOLI, VIGNAVERDE 2014, TERRE SICILIANE$26.90 12755152, 750 ML, 11.5% ABV


Marco de Bartoli, one of the forces behind the Sicilian wine revival, has made this Grillo in a very lively style. You’ll be delighted by this highly refreshing, delicious cuvée.GRAPE: GRILLO

AROMASCITRUS PEEL, CORIANDER, LIME, PINEAPPLE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASLEMON, LIME, MELLIFEROUS FLOWERS, MANGO, CHALK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASAPPLE, PEAR, GREEN OLIVE, MARZIPAN, LINDEN, SALINE NOTES

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – DELICATE

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

SCALLOP CEVICHE SHRIMP AND MANGO SKEWERS SCALLOPS WITH FENNEL SALAD

ONLINE PRESALE FROM FEBRUARY 18

March 2016 29

FEBRUARY 25

ITALY ZACCAGNINI, TRALCETTO 2013, MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO$21.45 12755136, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Don’t confuse it with a certain village in Tuscany. Here, Montepulciano is the grape variety used in the main appellation of the Abruzzi region of central Italy east of the Appenine Mountains.GRAPE: MONTEPULCIANO

ITALY 2023

TUA RITA, PALAZZETTO 2013, TOSCANA$19.70 11896148, 750 ML, 14% ABV


This mythical producer brings us a friendly priced cuvée that doesn’t compromise on quality. Flavourful and nicely structured, it can certainly be laid down for a few years in the cellar.GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

ITALY PALA SILENZI ROSSO 2014, ISOLA DEI NURAGHI$19.40 12725359, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Created in 1950, this family estate was named Emerging Wine Business of 2014 by Italian wine guide Gambero Rosso. It is a source of pride and inspiration for the Sardinian winemaking community.GRAPES: CARIGNAN, CANNONAU (GRENACHE)

AROMASPLUM, STRAWBERRY, CANDY, HERBAL NOTES, PASTRY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASCHERRY, TOBACCO, BLACKCURRANT, FOREST FLOOR, SPICES

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASBLACKBERRY, LAVENDER, BLACK CHERRY, VIOLETS, APPLE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

DUCK RILLETTESPIZZA WITH TOMATOES AND OLIVESSPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE

P. 13ITALY MASTROBERARDINO, LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO 2014, VESUVIO$23.05 00972869, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


The appellation’s name comes from the legend that God cried when he saw that Lucifer had stolen a part of heaven. These “tears of Christ” made it possible for vines to grow on the Vesuvio.GRAPE: PIEDIROSSO

AROMASSTRAWBERRY JAM, CEDAR, COCOA, BLACKCURRANT, DRIED HERBS

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

OSSO BUCCO

ITALY 2021

BORGO SCOPETO E CAPARZO, BORGONERO 2011, TOSCANA$21.75 12722019, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Borgo Scopeto, a well-established winery near Siena in the Chianti Classico appellation, successfully plays with international varieties to complement Sangiovese in this lovely bottling.GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SYRAH

AROMASLICORICE, DATES, TOBACCO, RIPE BLACK FRUIT, VANILLA

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BEEF BRAISED WITH RED WINE AND TOMATOES

WS 91


March 201630

SOURCES CITED:

V : Vinous, A. Galloni, S. Tanzer (out of 100) WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100)

ICON LEGEND

hold until the year indicated

WHITE WINE RED WINE

drink now drink now through the year indicated

The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule.

Favourite Cellier Value Picks WINE PROFILE CHART

Presence and intensity of acidity, body, wood and other elements at the time of tasting.

FEBRUARY 25

P. 19ITALY TENUTA DELLA TERRE NERE, TERRE NERE 2014, ETNA$25.10 12711176, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Magnificently located on the north face of Mount Etna, this remarkable estate is also ecologically minded. For instance, it installed solar panels that provide almost all of its energy needs. GRAPES: NERELLO MASCALESE, NERELLO CAPPUCCIO

ITALY G. MASCARELLO, TOETTO 2007, LANGHE$25.00 12717578, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


A leader in the Barolo appellation, the estate also makes this tiny bottling of Freisa. A great and delicious opportunity to discover a rare grape and go off the beaten path. GRAPE: FREISA

AROMASBLACK CHERRY, RASPBERRY, CHERRY PIT, BAKING SPICE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASSTRAWBERRY COMPOTE, COFFEE, BISCOTTI, COCOA, BALSAMIC NOTES, ROASTED NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 6ITALY 2020

MARCHESI ANTINORI, PIAN DELLE VIGNE 2013, ROSSO DI MONTALCINO$29.55 12704355, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Created in 2012, in addition to the estate’s Brunellos, this cuvée provides a more accessible Sangiovese, and helps keep the best fruit for the more age-worthy wines.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

AROMASRASPBERRY, CRANBERRY, CINNAMON, WET EARTH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 15ITALY 2020

FORADORI, TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO 2013, VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI$31.50 12825835, 750 ML, 12% ABV


This delicious wine is yet another testimony of Elisabetta Foradori’s love for Teroldego, the red native grape from the high altitude vineyards of Trentino-Alto Adige, in northern Italy.GRAPE: TEROLDEGO

P. 7ITALY 2023

PAOLO SCAVINO 2011, BAROLO$47.00 12533525, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Created in 1921, this family estate is headed by Enrico Savino and his daughters Elisa (winemaking) and Enrica (marketing). A modern and elegant wine that showcases the intense character of Nebbiolo.GRAPE: NEBBIOLO

AROMASCHERRY, BLUEBERRY, FLORAL NOTES, BLACK OLIVE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASCHERRY, ORANGE, TOBACCO, LICORICE, INCENSE

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

VEAL CUTLETS WITH EGGPLANT AND OLIVES

MEAT LASAGNA CHICKEN BREASTS STUFFED WITH DRIED TOMATOES

GRILLED VEAL CHOPS, ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCE WITH AMARO LAMB TENDERLOIN WITH HERBS


March 2016 31

Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.

MARCH 10

ITALY PIEROPAN, CALVARINO 2013, SOAVE CLASSICO$26.60 00741058, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Inspired by the difficult soil conditions of the vineyard – and the steep road to it – the name Calvarino means “a little ordeal.” Quite the contrast with the joy of finding it in your glass!GRAPES: GARGANEGA, TREBBIANO

AROMASAPPLE, PEAR, LINDEN, HONEYDEW MELON, ALMOND, MINERAL NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

GOAT CHEESE AND CHERRY TOMATOES

ONLINE PRESALE FROM MARCH 3

P. 23ITALY SANTA MARGHERITA, VALDOBBIADENE, PROSECCO SUPERIORE$19.95 12509154, 750 ML, 11.5% ABV


Proseccos differ from traditional method sparkling wines because their second fermentation is done in closed tanks, rather than in bottle, which means they don’t show the brioche notes from lees aging.GRAPE: GLERA

AROMASAPPLE, PEACH PIT, ALMOND

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

COD FRITTERS

ITALY MONTE DEL FRÁ, CÀ DEL MAGRO 2012, BIANCO DI CUSTOZA SUPERIORE$20.00 12717560, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This cuvée comes from a seven-hectare vineyard planted over 40 years ago. Lively and fruit-forward, it gets roundness and aromatic complexity from its aging on fine lees.GRAPES: GARGANEGA, TREBBIANO, TOCAI FRIULANO, CORTESE, CHARDONNAY

AROMASYELLOW APPLE, TROPICAL FRUIT, WHITE FLOWERS

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

SUSHI

P. 12ITALY 2018

ZENATO, ALANERA 2013, VERONESE$20.25 12766821, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


The name of this wine, Alanera, translates as “black wing” in English, a reference to the Italian word for raven, corvino, which in turn makes it a tribute to the main local grape, Corvina Veronese.GRAPE: CORVINA

AROMASBLACK CHERRY, COCOA, JAM, PASTRY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RABBIT STEW

ITALY GIUSEPPE CAMPAGNOLA, MONTE FOSCARINO LE BINE 2014, SOAVE CLASSICO$17.75 12717586, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This round and expressively fruity wine is made from a single vineyard at the heart of the Soave appellation, where grapes are hand-picked by the fifth generation of the Campagnola family.GRAPES: GARGANEGA, TREBBIANO

AROMASAPPLE, LIME, HONEY, HERBS

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

SALMON TROUT IN WHITE BUTTER SAUCE

WS 91

March 201632

MARCH 10 ONLINE PRESALE FROM MARCH 3

ITALY ALBINO PIONA 2012, BARDOLINO$22.15 12717480, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Building on the success of his Campo Massimo and his Custoza appellation whites, Albino Piono is back with a Bardolino that earned the highest marks from Slow Wine magazine.GRAPES: CORVINA, RONDINELLA

AROMASSTRAWBERRY, LACTIC NOTES, DRIED HERBS, PINEAPPLE

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHICKEN SCHNITZEL

P. 21ITALY 2020

BAROLLO MARCO E NICOLA, BAROLLO FRANK! 2012, VENETO$22.95 12717851, 750 ML, 13.5 % ABV


Check your spelling! This totally Venetian wine is not to be confused with the Barolos of Piemonte. It shows a different side of Cabernet Franc, which has been planted in Venetia for well over a century.GRAPE: CABERNET FRANC

AROMASPLUM, BLUEBERRY, TOBACCO, FLORAL NOTES, BALSAMIC NOTES, BAKING SPICE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BEEF BROCHETTES

ITALY 2020

CANONICA A CERRETO RISERVA 2009, CHIANTI CLASSICO$24.30 12724145, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Once managed by the monks of the Siena Cathedral, this estate located at the heart of the Chianti hills has kept the winemaking tradition alive – and offers some nice guest rooms too!GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT

AROMASLICORICE, CHOCOLATE, DATES, BAKED FRUIT, CEDAR, OAK

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BEEF WELLINGTON

ITALY 2019

CASTELLO BANFI, BANFI RISERVA 2012, CHIANTI CLASSICO$25.00 11366091, 750 ML, 13% ABV


Now run by the founders’ grandchildren, Castello Banfi has always remained in the family, despite becoming a major player in Tuscany’s wine world – and one of the best rated.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

AROMASCHERRY, TOBACCO, HERBS, LICORICE, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

PORK TENDERLOIN STUFFED WITH GRUYÈRE AND MUSHROOMS

ITALY 2019

TENUTA SANT’ANTONIO, TÉLOS IL ROSSO 2013, VALPOLICCELLA SUPERIORE$25.40 12755179, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Born as a collaborative project between four brothers who started as wine consultants and are now accomplished winery owners, this is a different and surprising wine that is worth discovering.GRAPES : CORVINA, RONDINELLA, CROATINA, OSELETA

AROMASCHERRY, SPICE, CIGAR BOX, AMARO, OREGANO

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

VEAL CHOPS WITH HERBS

March 2016 33

MARCH 10

ITALY 2019

PRÀ, RIPASSO 2013, VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE$30.00 12717826, 750 ML, 15.5% ABV


Artisan craftsmanship and organic viticulture are the foundations of this Ripasso, a typical Venetian style that allows for more intense structure and aromatic expression. A charming wine.GRAPES: CORVINA, CORVINONE, RONDINELLA, OSELETA

ITALY 2021

FOLONARI, TENUTA DI NOZZOLE RISERVA 2012, CHIANTI CLASSICO$27.10 11881878, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Owners of several estates in Tuscany, the Folonari family bought this one, at the heart of the Chianti Classico appellation, in 1971. A highly successful cuvée.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

AROMASRASPBERRY, CANDIED BLACK CHERRY, PASTRY, CINNAMON

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY

AROMASCHERRY, TOBACCO, INCENSE, CINNAMON, ANISE, OAK

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 24ITALY 2022

SALVALAI 2011, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO$32.75 11034345, 750 ML, 15% ABV


Amarone, the legendary wine of Venetia, is perfect for those who love big, rich reds with lots of character, a style reinforced by the partial drying of the grapes before vinification.GRAPES: CORVINA, RONDINELLA, MOLINARA

AROMASCANDIED CHERRY, PLUM, COCOA, ANIMAL NOTES, CEDAR, BAKING SPICE

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

ITALY 2025

CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA, LAMOLE GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, CHIANTI CLASSICO$37.00 12724196, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Made in a modern yet elegant style, this red wine was created by a small co-op that is clearly reaching for the top, as demonstrated by its Gran Selezione status, the highest tier in the Chianti appellation. GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

P. 26ITALY 2025

IL MOLINO DI GRACE, IL MARGONE GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, CHIANTI CLASSICO$41.50 12724971, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


When American businessman Frank Grace bought this property in 1995, it was a way to bring his passions for art and wine into a new project. His first wines were released in 1999.GRAPE: SANGIOVESE

AROMASBLACK CHERRY, PLUM, KIRSCH, COCOA, CEDAR, LICORICE

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASCHERRY, LICORICE, TEA, LEATHER, GRAPHITE, FOREST FLOOR

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AGED CHEDDAR, BLUE CHEESES BEEF STRIPLOIN WITH PARMESANVENISON TENDERLOIN, RED-WINE RISOTTO BRAISED BEEF CHEEKS LEG OF LAMB

ONLINE PRESALE FROM MARCH 3

WS 90 V 91 WS 90

March 201634

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