The Painted City: stroll by the Adige River in Verona 78 sainsburysmagazine.co.uk With high-speed trains whisking you between Verona and Florence in just 90 minutes, a two-city mini break has never been easier. On a whirlwind long weekend, I experienced the flavour and charm of both and even got off the tourist trail. VERONA Hit the streets Verona, the city of star-crossed lovers, is a little jewel. Built along the banks of the Adige River, it is filled with charming squares and marbled streets. It’s great place to explore on foot, as a city-centre ban on buses and cars means there’s no traffic to dodge. As you walk, be sure to look up. The layers of ‘The Painted City’ (a term coined in the 16th century for all its painted façades) from Roman times through to modern day are on display everywhere, and the frescoes on the Casa Mazzanti in the Piazza della Erbe are as vibrant as they were in the 1500s. Perfect ingredients Italy is the only place where you can talk to someone for half an hour about where to get the best mozzarella. Italians don’t leave their ingredients to chance – they are discussed and considered at length. In greengrocers tucked away down narrow little side streets, fruits and vegetables of every description are lovingly displayed, along with stern signs not to touch. Once inside, the conversation about the ingredients and what they’re being used for begins, and eventually the perfect specimen is selected. Allow them to choose you some fruit for your ramble. A sunny lunch on the terrace of the Osterio Mondodoro restaurant (osteriamondodoroverona.it) on the Via Mondo d’Oro provides perfect sustenance. With a menu emphasising lighter dishes, you won’t go away feeling weighed down. My starter of quinoa, peas and white asparagus was so fresh it felt like a bite out of a spring garden, and the main course of lake char with polenta was seasoned perfectly to enhance the delicate flavour of the fish. The region’s crisp, refreshing Soave white wine was the perfect complement. There are several vineyards surrounding Verona and they are well worth a visit. I was fascinated by the Allegrini vineyard (allegrini.it), with its Villa Della Torre. It’s littered with strange pagan and Christian symbols – like something from a Dan Brown novel, only better. A wine tasting there was an excellent introduction to Valpolicella wines, including the intense Amarone. Where to stay We stayed at the Palazzo Victoria (palazzovictoria.com) on Via Adua, a boutique hotel beside Porta Borsari. Like Verona itself, the hotel is an eclectic mix of styles and eras that all somehow work – from the graffitied wall in reception to the overstuffed white leather chairs designed by Gaetano Pesce and the fragments of medieval frescoes in my suite. If, after a long day, you don’t feel like venturing out, the hotel’s Victoria Club bar is a vibrant and friendly local hangout and the Borsari 36 restaurant is one of Verona’s finest. FLORENCE Hidden gems What is there to say about one of the world’s greatest cities? Of course, you must go to see the statue of David, the cathedral and the Ponte Vecchio, but also take time to see beyond all that. Our three-hour guided walking tour with brilliant private guide Marina Menegoi – your hotel concierge can arrange this – took in the key sites, but also tiny churches, hidden courtyards, and deserted streets. Well off the tourist trail, we visited the Oltrarno district, home to artisan workshops and quirky coffee shops. A highlight was the apothecary of Santa Maria Novella (smnovella.it), originally established in the 13th century by Dominican monks for their herbal remedies. This wonderland of perfumes and potions (all cruelty-free) combines technology and old-fashioned service – you don’t VERONA & FLORENCE Kathi Hall enjoys fresh, local dishes and wanders off the beaten track The apothecary of Santa Maria Novella – a ‘wonderland of perfumes and potions’ ‘Eclectic style’ at Palazzo Victoria Asparagus ‘lovingly displayed’ Chefs in action at Borsari 36 sainsburysmagazine.co.uk 79
Transcript
The Painted City: stroll by the Adige River
in Verona
78 sainsburysmagazine.co.uk
060_Italy special R2.indd 14 02/03/2016 12:45
With high-speed trains whisking you between Verona and Florence in just 90 minutes, a two-city mini break has never been
easier. On a whirlwind long weekend, I experienced the flavour and charm of both and even got off the tourist trail.
VERONAHit the streetsVerona, the city of star-crossed lovers, is a little jewel. Built along the banks of the Adige River, it is filled with charming squares and marbled streets. It’s great place to explore on foot, as a city-centre ban on buses and cars means there’s no traffic to dodge.
As you walk, be sure to look up. The layers of ‘The Painted City’ (a term coined in the 16th century for all its painted façades) from Roman times through to modern day are on display everywhere, and the frescoes on the Casa Mazzanti in the Piazza della Erbe are as vibrant as they were in the 1500s.
Perfect ingredientsItaly is the only place where you can talk to someone for half an hour about where to get the best mozzarella. Italians don’t leave their ingredients to chance – they are discussed and considered at length. In greengrocers tucked away down narrow little side streets, fruits and vegetables of every description are lovingly displayed, along with stern signs not to touch. Once inside, the conversation about the ingredients and what they’re being used for begins, and eventually the perfect specimen is selected. Allow them to choose you some fruit for your ramble.
A sunny lunch on the terrace of the Osterio Mondodoro restaurant (osteriamondodoroverona.it) on the Via Mondo d’Oro provides perfect sustenance. With a menu emphasising lighter dishes, you won’t go away feeling weighed down. My starter of quinoa, peas and white asparagus was so fresh it felt like a bite out of a spring garden, and the main course of lake char with
polenta was seasoned perfectly to enhance the delicate flavour of the fish. The region’s crisp, refreshing Soave white wine was the perfect complement.
There are several vineyards surrounding Verona and they are well worth a visit. I was fascinated by the Allegrini vineyard (allegrini.it), with its Villa Della Torre. It’s littered with strange pagan and Christian symbols – like something from a Dan Brown novel, only better. A wine tasting there was an excellent introduction to Valpolicella wines, including the intense Amarone.
Where to stayWe stayed at the Palazzo Victoria (palazzovictoria.com) on Via Adua, a boutique hotel beside Porta Borsari. Like Verona itself, the hotel is an eclectic mix of styles and eras that all somehow work – from the graffitied wall in reception to the overstuffed white leather chairs designed by Gaetano Pesce and the fragments of medieval frescoes in my suite. If, after a long day, you don’t feel like venturing out, the
hotel’s Victoria Club bar is a vibrant and friendly local hangout and the Borsari36 restaurant is one of Verona’s finest.
FLORENCEHidden gemsWhat is there to say about one of the world’s greatest cities? Of course, you must go to see the statue of David, the cathedral and the Ponte Vecchio, but also take time to see beyond all that. Our three-hour guided walking tour with brilliant private guide Marina Menegoi – your hotel concierge can arrange this – took in the key sites, but also tiny churches, hidden courtyards, and deserted streets. Well off the tourist trail, we visited the Oltrarno district, home to artisan workshops and quirky coffee shops. A highlight was the apothecary of Santa Maria Novella (smnovella.it), originally established in the 13th century by Dominican monks for their herbal remedies. This wonderland of perfumes and potions (all cruelty-free) combines technology and old-fashioned service – you don’t
VERONA & FLORENCE
Kathi Hall enjoys fresh, local dishes and wanders
o� the beaten track
The apothecary of Santa Maria Novella – a ‘wonderland of perfumes and potions’
‘Eclectic style’ at Palazzo Victoria
Asparagus ‘lovingly displayed’
Chefs in action at Borsari 36
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Hands-on time 15 mins Total time 1 hr 10 mins
1 tbsp olive oil2 x 400g packs Sicilian-inspired pork sausages 500g cherry tomatoes3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 tsp fennel seeds¼ tsp dried chilli flakes, crushed 2 sprigs rosemary, leaves finely chopped1 x 300g mini portobello mushrooms1 red onion, cut into 8 wedges 300ml white wine
For the polenta750ml hot chicken stock150g dry polenta40g Parmesan cheese, finely grated3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C, fan 180°C, gas 6. Toss the oil and sausages together in a large roasting tin, then roast for 10 minutes.
2 Add the tomatoes, garlic, fennel seeds, chilli flakes, rosemary, mushrooms and red onion to the sausages, pour in the wine; mix. Roast for 40 minutes; turn the sausages over and cook for a further 15 minutes, until they are sticky and the tomatoes have created a sauce.
3 Meanwhile, to make the polenta, put the hot stock in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Slowly add the polenta, stirring constantly, and cook for 2 minutes until thickened and smooth. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and season to taste.
4 Ladle the polenta into bowls and serve with the sausages, tomatoes and mushrooms, and pour the pan juices over the top. Sprinkle with the flat-leaf parsley and serve.
■ 844cals; 51g fat (19g sat fat); 43g protein; 5g fibre; 38g carbs; 9g total sugars; 2.7g salt
Creamy polenta with roasted Italian sausagesServes 4
handle the goods, the counter staff do that for you, but you can place ordersvia freestanding tablets. There’s even a little tea room with the most delectable cakes and pastries.
Passionate cookingA true Florentine legend is Fabio Picchi, owner of Cibreo (edizioniteatrodelsalecibreofirenze.it) on the corner of the Sant’Ambrogio food market. A great bear of a man, Picchi looks like Neptune himself with a snowy white mane and beard. He champions Tuscan food ‘before pasta’ and cooks the freshest
ingredients on the day, so there are no printed menus. Your host talks you through the dishes, telling you where all the ingredients have come from. It really is storytelling at its
finest. The 10 taster dishes before the meal included chicken liver pâté, tripe (Florentines are mad for it), artichoke hearts, baby carrots and broad beans with cured cheese. This was followed by chicken and ricotta meatballs in a tomato sauce, then rabbit stew. My companion opted for raw scampi that were so fresh, the chef wouldn’t dream of insulting them by putting them to the flame.
‘Your host talks you through the dishes – it’s storytelling at its finest’
Stay in style: stunning views from the Il Salviatino hotel; and the luxury bathroom, above
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Hands-on time 30 minsTotal time 1 hr 30 minsGet ahead The recipe can be made a couple of days ahead and stored, covered, in the fridge. It also freezes well, for up to 1 month.
1 x 460g pack skinless chicken thigh fillets, trimmed and roughly chopped100g white bread, roughly torn1 x 28g pack flat-leaf parsley, tough stalks removed1 garlic clove, peeled125g ricotta1 large egg, lightly beatenzest of 1 lemon40g Parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus extra to serve
For the sauce3 tbsp olive oil1 small onion, finely chopped2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoesa large handful of fresh basil, roughly torn1 tbsp honey
1 Put the chicken in a food processor and pulse until it is coarsely minced. Tip into a large bowl. Put the bread, parsley and
garlic in the food processor and process until you have fine breadcrumbs. Tip these into the bowl with the chicken and add the ricotta, egg, lemon zest and Parmesan. Season and mix everything together until well incorporated. (This is usually easiest to do with your hands.)
2 Roll the mixture into about 36 walnut-sized meatballs and put on a tray. Cover and chill while you prepare the sauce.
3 For the sauce, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large, deep heavy-based saucepan and fry the onion until tender. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and then half fill the cans with water. Pour this into the pan and add the basil and honey. Season, then simmer for 15-20 minutes. Blend the sauce until smooth using a stick blender or food processor.
4 Heat the remaining olive oil in a frying pan and cook the meatballs, turning frequently, for 4-5 minutes until golden all over. Drop the meatballs into the bubbling sauce and cook for a further 15-20 minutes. Serve with linguini, extra Parmesan and a few basil leaves.
■ 380cals; 19g fat (6g sat fat); 29g protein; 3g fibre; 22g carbs; 11g total sugars; 0.8g salt
FOR THE MEATBALLSMondelli Chianti Riserva, £8Riserva means that this wine has been aged for a minimum of two years. Savoury soft with a whiff of cinnamon spice, it’s wonderful with tomato-based meat dishes.
FOR THE SAUSAGESTaste the Difference Soave Classico, £8This is superior Soave from Classico vineyards. Soave means smooth in Italian and there’s a soft nuttiness that is surprisingly good with polenta or rice dishes.
Chicken and ricotta meatballs in tomato sauceServes 6
Verona is surrounded by the famous vineyards of Valpolicella and Soave. The hills of Soave Classico make some of Italy’s best whites, while Valpolicella’s reds range from thirst-quenching, cherry-fruited bottles (perfect for pizza) to complex Amarone. Chianti rules the roost in Florence and its bittersweet cherry acidity from the Sangiovese grape flatters tomato dishes. The most intense, complex Chiantis come from the Classico zone between Florence and Siena, but for lighter dishes, opt for freshly fruited and cheaper basic Chianti.
AND TO DRINK
GETTING THERE British Airways offers return flights daily from London Gatwick to Verona, from £84, and return flights twice daily to Florence, from £116. High-speed trains run between Verona and Florence eight times a day, from €14 one way. Rooms at Palazzo Victoria, Verona (palazzovictoria.com), start at €264 per night. Rooms at Il Salviatino, Florence (salviatino.com), start at €362 per night.
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Where to stayThey practically needed a court order to get me out of Il Salviatino (salviatino.com), a five-star 15th-century restored villa in the foothills of Fiesole with views over Florence. Relaxed and luxurious, it’s just a 15-minute shuttle ride to the city and the perfect Tuscan base. I could have stayed at the villa all day; strolling through the gardens, enjoying the spa and library and then sipping an apertif on the terrace. Perfect!
