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BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008 Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic www.inotex.cz PANEL SESSION 1: ENZYMATIC CATALYSIS & BIOFUNCTIONALIZATION OF TEXTILES BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008 BioTEX TEG - 3 BIO-BASED MATERIALS – BIOTECHNOLOGY Biopolymers and biomass - new base for TAA - surface modification and coating Biocomposites - fibre reinforcements and bio resins - fully biodegradable new materials Smart surfaces and matrices - immobilization of biomaterials - biomedical properties ENVI FRIENDLY PROCESSINGS - Waste water bio-treatment / engeneering - Textile wastes as a fermentation nutrient - recycling of blends - biodegradation of natural - recycling of synthetics - Reverse bio-degradation of new (PHA) biopolymer (fibres – surface layers) New fibres based on biofermentation - shift from refined oil to renewable natural (local) sources - complex utilization of natural fibrous plants - Energy – water saving flexible techniques (CP) Enzymes - cleaner production alternative of harsh chemistry - Selective processing tools - energy, water savings - high yield and flexibility of technology - conjunction of processing steps – time shortening - processability of tailored blends and constructions - complex utilization of natural fibre sources - Emerging BAT - novel enzymes - function and optimization - biocatalytic process design - extremozymes - New functionalized textiles - enzyme initiated grafting of functional additives - synthetic fibre modification - hybridisation - Biocatalysts for future processes of bio-based fibres
Transcript
Page 1: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Jan MarekINOTEX Czech Republic

www.inotex.cz

PANEL SESSION 1:ENZYMATIC CATALYSIS

&BIOFUNCTIONALIZATION OF TEXTILES

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

BioTEXTEG - 3

BIO-BASED MATERIALS – BIOTECHNOLOGY

Biopolymers and biomass- new base for TAA - surface modification and coatingBiocomposites- fibre reinforcements and bio resins - fully biodegradable new materialsSmart surfaces and matrices- immobilization of biomaterials- biomedical properties ENVI FRIENDLY PROCESSINGS

- Waste water bio-treatment / engeneering- Textile wastes as a fermentation nutrient

- recycling of blends - biodegradation of natural- recycling of synthetics

- Reverse bio-degradation of new (PHA) biopolymer (fibres – surface layers)

New fibres based on biofermentation- shift from refined oil to renewable natural(local) sources

- complex utilization of natural fibrous plants

- Energy – water saving flexible techniques (CP)

Enzymes - cleaner production alternative of harsh chemistry- Selective processing tools

- energy, water savings- high yield and flexibility of technology - conjunction of processing steps – time shortening- processability of tailored blends and constructions- complex utilization of natural fibre sources

- Emerging BAT- novel enzymes - function and optimization- biocatalytic process design- extremozymes

- New functionalized textiles- enzyme initiated grafting of functional additives- synthetic fibre modification - hybridisation

- Biocatalysts for future processes of bio-based fibres

Page 2: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

BioTEXWhat industry is asking for:

• Processing time reduction and flexibilityConjuction of processes

Single step x single bath proceduresCutting down of processing timeMultipurpose use of existing devices

• Less energy consuming processesLow temperature proceduresHeat recovery as sufficient source for processing temperatures

• Cleaner production- environment friendly BAT- less chemicals

reduction of water consumption and waste water polution- eco friendly and safe products (ECO-LABELS, REACH)

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

COTTON PRETREATMENT = removal of non-cellulosic impurities

natural : waxes, pectin, natural coloured components, soil

artificial : sizes, oils and lubricants

BioTEXINDUSTRIAL USE OF BIOSCOURING

AIM:• uniform and high absorptivity (hydrophilicity)• accesibility of cotton fibre

preparation for next technological stepsbleaching – dying – finishing

end user´s comfort physiological, well-being

Page 3: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

BioTEXEnzymatic „BIO-SCOURING“ of cotton• Conventional - chemical

- saponification of natural impurities – high alcali (caustic soda)- boiling temperature (+ time or + steam shock)- high dose of chemicals: surfactant, sequestrants …- risk of cellulose damage (DP, tensile strength)

• Enzymatic „BIO-SCOURING“Selective degradation of impurities

pectolytic enzymes- protection of substrate

minimum weight loss- low temperature (50-60°C)- less chemicals

scouring without caustic soda by pH 7,5-8,5lower waste water polutionless chemicals for bleaching

- shortening of processless of chemicals rinsing (rest alcalinity eliminated)start by 40-50°C (recuperated water) – no bath heating upconjunction of stepsdesizing (amylases) – scouring (pectinase)

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Parameter Alkaline Enzymatic

COD /mg/l/ 9195 7360 (-20%)

BOD /mg/l/ 5392 3 832 (-30%)

pH 12,8 7,5

anorg.salts /mg/l/ 6355 2821 (-45%)

Woven fabric

rising height 2min /mm/

ADP Ash /%/

Fats and waxes /%/

Weight loss /%/

Greige 5 2587 0,78 0,51 -

Enzyme 65 2548 0,58 0,21 2,3

Alkaline 67 2316 0,46 0,10 9,5

KnitGreige 0 2341 1,26 0,91 -

Enzyme 45 2156 0,72 0,31 1,2

Alkaline 50 2067 0,60 0,25 7,3

Alkaline Enzymatic

pH 13,8 8 – 8,5

temperature 95 –100 °C 50 - 60°C

surfactants high biodegrad.

WASTEWATER

SUBSTRATECONDITIONS

COSTSCOSTS Alkaline Enzymatic

Heating 100% 50 %

Water 100% 70 %

Time 100% 85 %

higher saving when rec. 40°C water used and at conjugated processes

Comparison of alkaline and enzymatic pretreatment –conditions and results

Page 4: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

ONE-step ENZYMATIC DESIZING AND BIOSCOURING – JIGGER

REACTIVE DYEING – deep shades

Classical two step pretreatment

One-step enzymatic pretreatment

Rising height /mm/ 2 min 42 38

Relative colour strength /%/ 100 102,25

Colour difference dE* Ref.D65/10 TL84/10 A/10

0,39 0,36 0,34

classical two-step

enzymatic one-step

reflectance curves

Enzymatic pretreatment – processing steps conjunction - examples

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Bioscouring for durable FR treatmentEN ISO 15025 (532) 100% cotton twill, 60°C, jigger

Bulk trial results – comparison of conventional and enzymatic pretreatment

Twill 100% cotton loom loom statestate

desizing and alkaline scouringdesizing and alkaline scouringtwo-steps / two baths

biopretreatmentbiopretreatment((desizing + bioscouringdesizing + bioscouring))

one-step / one bath

Square weight /g/m2/ 286,2 288,7 286,5

Rising height /mm/2min / 30min 0 / 0 50 / 108 60 / 138

Absorptivity /%/ 43,9 239,4 249,3

Tensile strength /N/warp / weft 696 / 1232 676 / 1190 705 / 1239

ADP 2 587 2 316 2 548

Fats and waxes(PEth.) /%/ 0,40 0,21 0,34

Ash /%/ 1,09 0,28 0,08

Ca /mg/kg/ 434,0 525,0 273,0

Mg /mg/kg/ 642,0 267,0 138,0

Stiffness /mN/ warp/weft 7,78 / 18,2 7,46 / 25,9 7,92 / 26,2

Desizing rate - Tegewa - 8 - 9 8 - 9

% P fixed - 2,26 2,29

Page 5: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Bio PRETREATMENREST HYDROGEN PEROXIDE REMOVAL AFTER BLEACHING

original + 0,1 ml/l H2O2

CATALASE AS „PEROXIDE KILLER“

- significant lost of dye yield

- non reproducibility and risk of non level dyeing

CHEMICAL:

Long time - smellDifficult and long wash out

ENZYMATIC:

Part of dyeing stepBefore dyeing – no rinsingSelective – no riks of fabric and dye damage

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Bio PRETREATMENREST HYDROGEN PEROXIDE REMOVAL AFTER BLEACHING

conventional reducing agent 245 min.

catalase – cellulase 210 min.

combi 110 min.

HOT NEWS:

NEXT REASONABLE PROCESS SHORTENING

CELLUSOFT COMBI

SINGLE BATH H2O2REMOVAL

+ANTIPILLING / BIOPOLISHING

+DYEING

Add 1-3%Cellulase

Add 1-3%Cellulase

Add 1-3%CellusoftCombiAdd salt

Start dyeing

Dose alkali

Set pH 6-7

Hot rinse

Regular bleaching

Regular bleaching

Hot rinse

Set pH 6-7

Dose alkali

Start dyeing

Add Addsalt dye

Add catalase

Deactivation

Regular bleaching

Hot rinse

Set pH 6-7

Addreducing

agent

DeactivationAdd Addsalt dye

Dose alkali

Start dyeing

Rinse toremovereducingagents

Page 6: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

BIOSCOURING – H2O2 (alcali reduced) - PEROXIDE KILLER + ANTIPILLING IN DYE BATH

Alkaline pretreatment- bleaching- single bath H2O

killer + Re dyeing

reflectance curves

JET - REACTIVE DYEING

Bioscouring- bleaching- single bath

COMBI + Re dyeing

Enzymatic pretreatment – processing steps conjunction – CELLUSOFT COMBI

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Bio-scouring – reduction of processing time

Page 7: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

ENZYMATIC MODIFICATION OF PES

PET GAIN LEADING POSSITION IN THE PRODUCTION VOLUMESOF SYNTHETIC FIBRES

MASSIVE USE OF RECYCLED PET-BOTTLES

SOME OF END-USE PROPERTIES RESTRICT ITS USE

• LOW WATER ABSORPTIVITY – LOW ELECTROCONDUCTIVITY UNCONFORTABLE WEAR

• DIFFICULT HT DYEING – LIMITED REACTIVITYFOR COATING AND ADDED VALUE FUNCTIONALIZATION

INTENSIVE SEARCH FORNEW SELECTIVE ENZYME USE (ESTERASES, CUTINASES)

MORE SAFETY – ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY – NO WEIGHT LOSSCOMPARING TO ALKALINE TREATMENT

SURFACE COATING ADHESIONPROCESSING OF BLENDS

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

Enzymatic modification of PES. Durability in repeated laundry, antistatic effect, hydrophilicity. Texazym PES 1,5 g/l, 30 min, 30°C

Page 8: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

PES thermofixed

CUTTINASE

ALKALINE

ESTERASE

0,3426 0,7673

1,1953 2,4233

2,4375 2,5148

2,2899 1,9567

Enzymatic modification of PES. Hydrophilicity improvement –new MMT method – spreading speed (mm/s)

WEIGHT LOOS ALKALINE 14,8 % ENZYMATIC < 1%FR PES – TREVIRA CS WITH NO CHANGE OF FR PROPERTIES

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

R-COOR´ R-COOH + HO – R´

OH – groups forming, verification by reactive dyeing

(soaping – fastness properties)

Colourfastnesses : Comparison of dyeing of untreated and enzyme–treated PET twill

(dyeing with 0,5% reactive dyestuff)

Colourfastness

water : 4D / 4-5 / 4-5

washing 40°C : 4-5D / 4-5 / 4-5

alk. perspiration : 2-3D / 4-5 / 4-5

wet rubbing : 4-5

dry rubbing : 4-5

Colourfastness

water : 4D / 4-5 / 4-5

washing 40°C : 4-5D / 4-5 / 4-5

alk. perspiration : 2-3D / 4-5 / 4-5

wet rubbing : 4-5

dry rubbing : 4-5

C.I.Reactive Blue 19

PET POLYMER STRUCTURE MODIFICATION

- NEW GENERATION OF (MULTI)FUNCTIONAL FINISHING

enzyme

Page 9: Jan Marek INOTEX Czech Republic

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

unretted 10 days dew-retting

10 days „bio-retting“

„BIO-RETTING“ENZYMES BOOSTING THE BAST FIBRE EXTRACTION AND ELEMENTARISATION

A) spraying of harvested stems on the fieldlong fibre yield increase (+ 43%)linseed flax fibre use – new dimension of economy

B) additional wet processing step – scutched stageloose dyeing device – mechanical cleaningelimination of under x over retting loss (20%)fineness – cleanness – colour improvement

DECOMPOSITION OF NATURAL GLUE COMPONENTS OF FLAX/HEMP STALKPECTINASES – XYLANASES – CELLULASES FAMILY

CUTTING THE CHANGING CLIMATE AND SEASONAL DEPENDENCE

BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008

NO FEARFOLLOW

THE USE OF ENZYMESIN TEXTILE WET PROCESSING

BioTEX

SIMPLE – EFFECTIVE – NEW FUNCTIONALITYSAVE ENVIRONMENT + MONEY

[email protected]


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