BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Jan MarekINOTEX Czech Republic
www.inotex.cz
PANEL SESSION 1:ENZYMATIC CATALYSIS
&BIOFUNCTIONALIZATION OF TEXTILES
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
BioTEXTEG - 3
BIO-BASED MATERIALS – BIOTECHNOLOGY
Biopolymers and biomass- new base for TAA - surface modification and coatingBiocomposites- fibre reinforcements and bio resins - fully biodegradable new materialsSmart surfaces and matrices- immobilization of biomaterials- biomedical properties ENVI FRIENDLY PROCESSINGS
- Waste water bio-treatment / engeneering- Textile wastes as a fermentation nutrient
- recycling of blends - biodegradation of natural- recycling of synthetics
- Reverse bio-degradation of new (PHA) biopolymer (fibres – surface layers)
New fibres based on biofermentation- shift from refined oil to renewable natural(local) sources
- complex utilization of natural fibrous plants
- Energy – water saving flexible techniques (CP)
Enzymes - cleaner production alternative of harsh chemistry- Selective processing tools
- energy, water savings- high yield and flexibility of technology - conjunction of processing steps – time shortening- processability of tailored blends and constructions- complex utilization of natural fibre sources
- Emerging BAT- novel enzymes - function and optimization- biocatalytic process design- extremozymes
- New functionalized textiles- enzyme initiated grafting of functional additives- synthetic fibre modification - hybridisation
- Biocatalysts for future processes of bio-based fibres
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
BioTEXWhat industry is asking for:
• Processing time reduction and flexibilityConjuction of processes
Single step x single bath proceduresCutting down of processing timeMultipurpose use of existing devices
• Less energy consuming processesLow temperature proceduresHeat recovery as sufficient source for processing temperatures
• Cleaner production- environment friendly BAT- less chemicals
reduction of water consumption and waste water polution- eco friendly and safe products (ECO-LABELS, REACH)
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
COTTON PRETREATMENT = removal of non-cellulosic impurities
natural : waxes, pectin, natural coloured components, soil
artificial : sizes, oils and lubricants
BioTEXINDUSTRIAL USE OF BIOSCOURING
AIM:• uniform and high absorptivity (hydrophilicity)• accesibility of cotton fibre
preparation for next technological stepsbleaching – dying – finishing
end user´s comfort physiological, well-being
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
BioTEXEnzymatic „BIO-SCOURING“ of cotton• Conventional - chemical
- saponification of natural impurities – high alcali (caustic soda)- boiling temperature (+ time or + steam shock)- high dose of chemicals: surfactant, sequestrants …- risk of cellulose damage (DP, tensile strength)
• Enzymatic „BIO-SCOURING“Selective degradation of impurities
pectolytic enzymes- protection of substrate
minimum weight loss- low temperature (50-60°C)- less chemicals
scouring without caustic soda by pH 7,5-8,5lower waste water polutionless chemicals for bleaching
- shortening of processless of chemicals rinsing (rest alcalinity eliminated)start by 40-50°C (recuperated water) – no bath heating upconjunction of stepsdesizing (amylases) – scouring (pectinase)
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Parameter Alkaline Enzymatic
COD /mg/l/ 9195 7360 (-20%)
BOD /mg/l/ 5392 3 832 (-30%)
pH 12,8 7,5
anorg.salts /mg/l/ 6355 2821 (-45%)
Woven fabric
rising height 2min /mm/
ADP Ash /%/
Fats and waxes /%/
Weight loss /%/
Greige 5 2587 0,78 0,51 -
Enzyme 65 2548 0,58 0,21 2,3
Alkaline 67 2316 0,46 0,10 9,5
KnitGreige 0 2341 1,26 0,91 -
Enzyme 45 2156 0,72 0,31 1,2
Alkaline 50 2067 0,60 0,25 7,3
Alkaline Enzymatic
pH 13,8 8 – 8,5
temperature 95 –100 °C 50 - 60°C
surfactants high biodegrad.
WASTEWATER
SUBSTRATECONDITIONS
COSTSCOSTS Alkaline Enzymatic
Heating 100% 50 %
Water 100% 70 %
Time 100% 85 %
higher saving when rec. 40°C water used and at conjugated processes
Comparison of alkaline and enzymatic pretreatment –conditions and results
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
ONE-step ENZYMATIC DESIZING AND BIOSCOURING – JIGGER
REACTIVE DYEING – deep shades
Classical two step pretreatment
One-step enzymatic pretreatment
Rising height /mm/ 2 min 42 38
Relative colour strength /%/ 100 102,25
Colour difference dE* Ref.D65/10 TL84/10 A/10
0,39 0,36 0,34
classical two-step
enzymatic one-step
reflectance curves
Enzymatic pretreatment – processing steps conjunction - examples
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Bioscouring for durable FR treatmentEN ISO 15025 (532) 100% cotton twill, 60°C, jigger
Bulk trial results – comparison of conventional and enzymatic pretreatment
Twill 100% cotton loom loom statestate
desizing and alkaline scouringdesizing and alkaline scouringtwo-steps / two baths
biopretreatmentbiopretreatment((desizing + bioscouringdesizing + bioscouring))
one-step / one bath
Square weight /g/m2/ 286,2 288,7 286,5
Rising height /mm/2min / 30min 0 / 0 50 / 108 60 / 138
Absorptivity /%/ 43,9 239,4 249,3
Tensile strength /N/warp / weft 696 / 1232 676 / 1190 705 / 1239
ADP 2 587 2 316 2 548
Fats and waxes(PEth.) /%/ 0,40 0,21 0,34
Ash /%/ 1,09 0,28 0,08
Ca /mg/kg/ 434,0 525,0 273,0
Mg /mg/kg/ 642,0 267,0 138,0
Stiffness /mN/ warp/weft 7,78 / 18,2 7,46 / 25,9 7,92 / 26,2
Desizing rate - Tegewa - 8 - 9 8 - 9
% P fixed - 2,26 2,29
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Bio PRETREATMENREST HYDROGEN PEROXIDE REMOVAL AFTER BLEACHING
original + 0,1 ml/l H2O2
CATALASE AS „PEROXIDE KILLER“
- significant lost of dye yield
- non reproducibility and risk of non level dyeing
CHEMICAL:
Long time - smellDifficult and long wash out
ENZYMATIC:
Part of dyeing stepBefore dyeing – no rinsingSelective – no riks of fabric and dye damage
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Bio PRETREATMENREST HYDROGEN PEROXIDE REMOVAL AFTER BLEACHING
conventional reducing agent 245 min.
catalase – cellulase 210 min.
combi 110 min.
HOT NEWS:
NEXT REASONABLE PROCESS SHORTENING
CELLUSOFT COMBI
SINGLE BATH H2O2REMOVAL
+ANTIPILLING / BIOPOLISHING
+DYEING
Add 1-3%Cellulase
Add 1-3%Cellulase
Add 1-3%CellusoftCombiAdd salt
Start dyeing
Dose alkali
Set pH 6-7
Hot rinse
Regular bleaching
Regular bleaching
Hot rinse
Set pH 6-7
Dose alkali
Start dyeing
Add Addsalt dye
Add catalase
Deactivation
Regular bleaching
Hot rinse
Set pH 6-7
Addreducing
agent
DeactivationAdd Addsalt dye
Dose alkali
Start dyeing
Rinse toremovereducingagents
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
BIOSCOURING – H2O2 (alcali reduced) - PEROXIDE KILLER + ANTIPILLING IN DYE BATH
Alkaline pretreatment- bleaching- single bath H2O
killer + Re dyeing
reflectance curves
JET - REACTIVE DYEING
Bioscouring- bleaching- single bath
COMBI + Re dyeing
Enzymatic pretreatment – processing steps conjunction – CELLUSOFT COMBI
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Bio-scouring – reduction of processing time
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
ENZYMATIC MODIFICATION OF PES
PET GAIN LEADING POSSITION IN THE PRODUCTION VOLUMESOF SYNTHETIC FIBRES
MASSIVE USE OF RECYCLED PET-BOTTLES
SOME OF END-USE PROPERTIES RESTRICT ITS USE
• LOW WATER ABSORPTIVITY – LOW ELECTROCONDUCTIVITY UNCONFORTABLE WEAR
• DIFFICULT HT DYEING – LIMITED REACTIVITYFOR COATING AND ADDED VALUE FUNCTIONALIZATION
INTENSIVE SEARCH FORNEW SELECTIVE ENZYME USE (ESTERASES, CUTINASES)
MORE SAFETY – ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY – NO WEIGHT LOSSCOMPARING TO ALKALINE TREATMENT
SURFACE COATING ADHESIONPROCESSING OF BLENDS
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
Enzymatic modification of PES. Durability in repeated laundry, antistatic effect, hydrophilicity. Texazym PES 1,5 g/l, 30 min, 30°C
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
PES thermofixed
CUTTINASE
ALKALINE
ESTERASE
0,3426 0,7673
1,1953 2,4233
2,4375 2,5148
2,2899 1,9567
Enzymatic modification of PES. Hydrophilicity improvement –new MMT method – spreading speed (mm/s)
WEIGHT LOOS ALKALINE 14,8 % ENZYMATIC < 1%FR PES – TREVIRA CS WITH NO CHANGE OF FR PROPERTIES
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
R-COOR´ R-COOH + HO – R´
OH – groups forming, verification by reactive dyeing
(soaping – fastness properties)
Colourfastnesses : Comparison of dyeing of untreated and enzyme–treated PET twill
(dyeing with 0,5% reactive dyestuff)
Colourfastness
water : 4D / 4-5 / 4-5
washing 40°C : 4-5D / 4-5 / 4-5
alk. perspiration : 2-3D / 4-5 / 4-5
wet rubbing : 4-5
dry rubbing : 4-5
Colourfastness
water : 4D / 4-5 / 4-5
washing 40°C : 4-5D / 4-5 / 4-5
alk. perspiration : 2-3D / 4-5 / 4-5
wet rubbing : 4-5
dry rubbing : 4-5
C.I.Reactive Blue 19
PET POLYMER STRUCTURE MODIFICATION
- NEW GENERATION OF (MULTI)FUNCTIONAL FINISHING
enzyme
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
unretted 10 days dew-retting
10 days „bio-retting“
„BIO-RETTING“ENZYMES BOOSTING THE BAST FIBRE EXTRACTION AND ELEMENTARISATION
A) spraying of harvested stems on the fieldlong fibre yield increase (+ 43%)linseed flax fibre use – new dimension of economy
B) additional wet processing step – scutched stageloose dyeing device – mechanical cleaningelimination of under x over retting loss (20%)fineness – cleanness – colour improvement
DECOMPOSITION OF NATURAL GLUE COMPONENTS OF FLAX/HEMP STALKPECTINASES – XYLANASES – CELLULASES FAMILY
CUTTING THE CHANGING CLIMATE AND SEASONAL DEPENDENCE
BioTEX workshop Brussels 20.11.2008
NO FEARFOLLOW
THE USE OF ENZYMESIN TEXTILE WET PROCESSING
BioTEX
SIMPLE – EFFECTIVE – NEW FUNCTIONALITYSAVE ENVIRONMENT + MONEY