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Jewellery Product Quality Requirements Issue Date 29/03/99 QVC Version 4.6 : 04/11/2010 © QVC 2010
Transcript

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements

Issue Date 29/03/99 QVC Version 4.6 : 04/11/2010 © QVC 2010

CONTENTS

QVC © QVC 2010

QAJContentsList v4.5.doc

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements

Page. 1. QVC Inspection Methods and Environment 1 1.1 Visual Inspection 1 1.2 Lighting 2 2. General Manufacturing Guidelines 3 3. Marking Requirements 5 3.1 Required Marks 5 3.2 Permissible Marks 5 3.3 Non-permissible Marks 5 3.4 Application Method: Hallmark and Makersmark 5 3.5 Appearance of Marks 6 3.6 Placement and Location of Marks 6 3.7 Hallmarks for Gold 8 3.8 Hallmarks for Silver 8 3.9 Hallmarks for Platinum 9 3.10 Hallmarks for Palladium 9 3.11 Hallmarks for Items with Combined Metals 9 4. Casting 12 5. Assembly 14 5.1 Soldering 14 5.2 Glue Assembly 15 6. Stone Placement and Settings 17 6.1 Stone Placement 17 6.2 Prong Settings 18 6.3 Bezel Settings 21 6.4 Channel Settings 22 6.5 Pave Settings 23 7. Polishing 24

Contents

QVC

© QVC 2010

QAJContentsList v4.5.doc

7.1 Pre-Polishing 24 7.2 General Requirements 24 8. Finishing and Texture Treatments 26 8.1 General Requirements 26 8.2 High Polished Finish 26 8.3 Matte, Satin, Frosted or Sandblasted Finish 26 8.4 Brushed or Florentine Finish 26 8.5 Oxidation or “Antiquing” 27 8.6 Diamond Cut Finish 27 9. Plating 28 9.1 General Requirements 28 9.2 Plated Findings 28 10. Findings 29 10.1 General Requirements 29 10.2 Bolt Ring and Lobster Claw Clasps 30 10.3 Box Clasp and Hidden Box Clasp 31 10.4 Figure Eight Safety Catch 31 10.5 Fold-Over Clasp 32 10.6 Earring Clutches 32 11. Mechanical Working Parts 35 12. Chains (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets) 36 12.1 General Requirements 36 12.2 How to Measure Chains 37 12.3 Chain Length Tolerances 38 13. Rings 39 13.1 General Requirements 39 13.2 How to Measure Ring Size 41 13.3 Ring Size Tolerances 42 14. Gemstones 43 14.1 Specifying Gemstone Requirements 43 14.2 Terminology for Parts of Gemstones 43 14.3 Gemstone Identification 45 14.4 Gemstone Clarity 46 14.5 Gemstone Colour 47 14.6 Gemstone Cut 48 14.7 Gemstone Carat Weight 51 14.8 Gemstone Polishing 52 14.9 Cultured Pearls and Pearls 53 14.10 Gemstone Size 55

Contents

QVC

© QVC 2010

QAJContentsList v4.5.doc

15. Gram Weight 56 15.1 Specifying Gram Weight 56 15.2 Verifying Gram Weight During First Piece Evaluation 56 15.3 Establishing Gram Weight During QVC Warehouse Receipt Inspection 56 15.4 Restriction for Reorders 57 16. Coloured Gold 58 16.1 Red (Rose) Gold 58 16.2 White Gold 59 16.3 Measuring of Coloured Gold 60 Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet Appendix B: Purchase Order Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments Appendix E: UN-Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

JEWELLERY PRODUCT QUALITY REQUIREMENTS

QVC 1 © QVC 2010

Section-1v4.1

This manual is an overview of the minimum quality requirements for jewellery sold by QVC. Although QVC has produced these guidelines, the standards in this chapter have been established by our customers who have come to expect an exceptional level of quality from us. Our Vendors are ultimately responsible for the quality of their merchandise, and the following standards are a valuable tool in helping our Vendors meet QVC’s quality requirements.

1 QVC INSPECTION METHODS AND ENVIRONMENT This section explains how QVC QA evaluates all finished jewellery items. Vendors are strongly encouraged to use similar inspection methods and lighting conditions.

1.1 Visual Inspection A. Unaided-eye inspection All jewellery and gemstones are inspected with the unaided eye at a “bent elbow” distance, which is approximately six (6) to twelve (12) inches from the eyes. QVC QA looks for defects which are detectable without magnification. Vision is assumed to be 20/20, and color vision is also assumed to be normal. B. Magnification Although QVC QA Inspectors do not use magnification to detect defects, they may use a 10X jewelller’s loupe or 2X to 5X glasses to obtain a clearer view of an eye-visible feature or defect such as a hallmark or scratch.

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: QVC Inspection Methods and Requirements

2 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-1v4.1

1.2 Lighting QVC QA inspects jewellery under balanced daylight, fluorescent lighting conditions of approximately 5,000 Kelvin. Because different lighting can have different effects on the appearance of jewellery, especially gemstone color, QVC strongly recommends that Vendors use similar lighting when evaluating finished items.

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: General Manufacturing Guidelines

2 GENERAL MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES 1) All aspects of an item, including the dimensions, materials, construction, weight,

stone type, features, appearance, performance, etc., must conform to the specifications written on the following documents:

- Product Specification Sheet (see Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet.)

- Purchase Order (see Appendix B: Purchase Order.)

- Gemstone Declaration (see Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form.)

2) Metal must be free of noticeable defects and distortions. Metal must also be

clean, with no residue or water spots. 3) All parts of an item must be symmetrically positioned, balanced and aligned,

unless specified otherwise. Airways and other gallery work must be symmetrical and equally proportioned.

Correct Incorrect

Incorrect Correct

4) All markings, including the hallmark and trademark must be clear, legible and

distinct, and comply with all legal requirements. 5) All findings must be durable, secure, easy to operate, comfortable to wear and free

of noticeable surface defects.

QVC 3 © QVC 2010

Section-2v4.2.doc

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: General Manufacturing Guidelines

4 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-2v4.2.doc

6) Gemstones must be free of eye-visible chips and scratches from the crown view.

They must also be properly set and secured. 7) All pieces of the same QVC item number must be identical. The design,

construction and material must be consistent among all pieces and production runs of a QVC item. Moreover, any finding or mechanical part must also be identical in design, construction, material and performance among all production runs.

8) All jewellery must conform to specified weights and measurements.

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

QVC 5 © QVC 2010

Section-3v4.1

3 MARKING REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Required Marks All Precious metal items supplied by UK vendors are required to be Hallmarked by an approved body in accordance with British Hallmarking Act 1973. Non-UK vendors should provide their product un-marked as QVC will arrange for the Hallmarking to take place as required under the above act. All Diamonique should be marked with “DQ CZ”

3.2 Permissible Marks The following marks are not required, but are permitted when applicable. However, they must not appear to be part of any hallmark or makersmark.

- Copyright symbol

- Patent number

3.3 Non-Permissible Marks The following information must never be permanently or temporarily affixed directly to any part of a jewellery item sold by QVC, unless specified otherwise:

- Style number

- Serial number

- Finger/ring size

- Dimensions

- Stone carat weight

- Gram weight

- Type of gemstone

3.4 Application Method: Hallmark and Makersmark The hallmark and makersmark should be permanently affixed directly to the piece.

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

6 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-3v4.1

3.5 Appearance of Marks 1) All marks on a piece must be legible, clear and distinct. There must be...

- no distorted or missing numbers or letters.

- no double stamping.

- no marks blending into an adjacent mark.

- no overpolishing that blurs the mark or causes it to become faint.

- no extremely shallow or deep marks that are difficult to read.

2) Marks must be clean. There must be no jeweller’s rouge, polishing compound or

any other type of residue within the mark. 3) Marks should be compatible with the overall aesthetics of the piece.

3.6 Placement and Location of Marks 1) Marks should be placed where they can be easily detected, but also hidden or

inconspicuous when the piece is worn, unless the marks are required to be an integral part of the visible design.

2) Marks should be centred or neatly positioned. 3) The hallmark and makersmark must appear close to each other and be equally

legible, clear and distinct. Whenever the design allows, the hallmark should appear to the right of the makersmark.

4) For Diamonique® items, whenever the design allows, it is preferred that the

hallmark appear adjacent and to the right of the makersmark.

5) Depending on the type of jewellery, marks should be placed in certain areas on the piece:

Rings Marks should be placed high up on the inside of the shank, far from the sizing area, to enable the ring to be sized without disturbing the mark.

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

QVC 7 © QVC 2010

Section-3v4.1

Pendants and brooches Depending on the design of the piece, marks should be placed on the reverse side of the item or the inside of the bail. For pendant and chain sets, both the pendant and the chain must bear a makersmark and hallmark. Earrings Depending on the design of the piece, marks should be placed on the back of the item or on the post or clip. For pairs, it is not acceptable to place the makersmark on one earring and the hallmark on the other; the makersmark and hallmark must appear next to each other on each individual earring in a pair.

Incorrect Correct

Sizing area

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

8 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-3v4.1

Chains Depending on the design of the piece, marks should be placed on the end caps near the clasp. A hanging metal plaque or oval plaque permanently attached to the piece is also acceptable.

3.7 Hallmarks for Gold It is a legal requirement that all items of gold 1 gram and over sold in the UK must be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office in the UK. Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Gold

Alloy Content Hallmarks

Percentage Parts Per Thousand 37.5% Gold

375 parts per 1000

375

58.5% Gold

585 parts per 1000

585

75% Gold

750 parts per 1000

750

91.6% Gold

916 parts per 1000

916

99% Gold

990 parts per 1000

990

99.9% Gold

999 parts per 1000

999

Note: The above levels of fineness are minimum requirements. There is NO negative tolerance.

3.8 Hallmarks for Silver It is a legal requirement that all items of silver 7.78 gram and over sold in the UK must be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office in the UK. Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Silver

Alloy Content Hallmarks

Percentage Parts Per Thousand 80% Silver

800 parts per 1000

800

92.5% Silver

925 parts per 1000

925

95.8% Silver

958 parts per 1000

958

999 parts per 1000

999

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

QVC 9 © QVC 2010

Section-3v4.1

99.9% Silver

3.9 Hallmarks for Platinum It is a legal requirement that all items of platinum 0.5 gram and over sold in the UK must be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office of the United Kingdom. Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Platinum.

Alloy Content Hallmarks

Percentage Parts Per Thousand 85% Platinum

850 Parts per 1000

850

90% Platinum

900 Parts per 1000

900

95% Platinum

950 Parts per 1000

950

99.9% Platinum

999 Parts per 1000

999

3.10 Hallmarks for Palladium It is a legal requirement that all items of Palladium 1 gram and over sold in the UK must be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office of the United Kingdom. Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Palladium.

Alloy Content Hallmarks

Percentage Parts Per Thousand

50% Palladium 500 Parts per 1000 500 95% Palladium

950 Parts per 1000

950

99.9% Palladium

999 Parts per 1000

999

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

10 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-3v4.1

3.11 Hallmarks for Items with Combined Metals The following is the guidance published on the British Hallmarking Council’s web site (www.britishhallmarkingcouncil.gov.uk)

MIXED METALS & PRE 1950 ARTICLES GUIDANCE NOTES BACKGROUND

Changes to the Hallmarking legislation which came into force on April 6th

2007 have created new opportunities for the Jewellery industry and offer consumers more accurate descriptions of the items they are purchasing. Historically the Hallmarking Act has prevented the Assay Offices from hallmarking items made of a mixture of precious and base metals, and the regulations for mixed precious metal items have been very restricting. This has resulted in misleading descriptions because if a precious metal item is not hallmarked then it can not be described as such. Significant anomalies have arisen, particularly for expensive items such as 18ct Gold and Stainless Steel watches which have had to be described as “yellow metal” and stainless steel. Consumers and the jewellery industry will benefit from the changes which will allow for much more accurate descriptions of both upmarket mixed precious metal products and also fashionable lower priced pieces. REGULATIONS FOR ARTICLES OF TWO OR MORE PRECIOUS METALS

• The item can only be marked if, in the opinion of the Assay Office, an ordinary person will be able to determine which part is which precious metal.

• Each precious metal component must be at least the minimum legal fineness for that metal ie: Gold 375. Silver 800. Palladium 850 (parts per thousand).

• The full hallmark (Assay Office and fineness mark) struck will be that of the least precious metal, in order, silver, gold and Palladium. This will normally be struck on the appropriate metal.

• The minor (fineness) mark will be stamped on the “higher” precious metals. Anomalies

• Where small components are used the above may not be possible. In these circumstances the following rules apply: o If it is not practical to stamp the fineness marks on the “higher” precious

metals, they may be stamped on the lower precious metals. o If this is not practical then the fineness marks can be stamped on another

precious metal part. o If neither of these options are practical, then the full (Assay Office and least

precious metal fineness) mark will be applied on the least precious metal part and all other marks omitted.

• When a Palladium article has small component parts consisting of gold and the gold parts are of a fineness of 750ppt or higher, then the article may be hallmarked with a Palladium full mark and the appropriate gold fineness mark.

Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements

QVC 11 © QVC 2010

Section-3v4.1

This will not apply if the gold components are 585 or 375ppt. The gold fineness mark can be applied anywhere on the article.

REGULATIONS FOR ARTICLES OF PRECIOUS METAL PARTS AND OTHER MATERIALS

• A mixed precious metal and base metal article, or an article of mixed precious metal and other materials, can only be hallmarked if any precious metal component is at least the minimum legal fineness for that metal i.e. Gold 375. Silver 800. Palladium 850 (parts per thousand).

• If an article includes base metal parts o Those base metal parts must be clearly distinguishable from precious

metal parts by colour and/or texture and must be clearly visible by their extent.

o The word +METAL must be applied next to the hallmark on the precious metal part

o Whenever practical the word METAL or the name of the metal should also be struck on the base metal part/s (brass, stainless steel, titanium etc), in a manner which complies with any Regulation made by The British Hallmarking Council.

o The hallmark can only be applied to the precious metal component.

Sufficient space must also be available adjacent to the hallmark for the addition of the “+METAL” mark." • If the article does not include base metal parts, but other materials,

then: • The other materials must be clearly distinguishable from any precious

metal part. • The non-precious metal part must not be plated to resemble any

precious metal. • The extent of each part must be clearly visible. • The precious metal part must be of a thickness of not less than 100

micrometres. • A mixed material article containing only a single precious metal will be

hallmarked on the precious metal part only, as if it was a separate article.

• For an article with more than one precious metal and a base metal the rules which apply to hallmarking Mixed Precious Metals apply.

• NB Articles must still comply with the UK Nickel regulations

Jewelry Quality Requirements: Casting

4 CASTING 1) Before casting, the manufacturer should make sure that the model conforms to all

of QVC’s specifications and quality requirements. 2) Metal must be free from any noticeable defects or discoloration. There must be...

- no fire scale/burn marks.

- no porosity, pits or pinholes.

- no parting lines.

- no sinks or dimples.

porosity pits pinholes

firescale burn marks

- no orange peel.

- no filled air bubbles.

- no stains.

- no haze or dull film.

parting line

sink/dimple

filled air bubble

orange peel

12 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-4v4.1

Jewelry Quality Requirements: Casting

3) Metal must have no signs of stress cracking.

QVC 13 © QVC 2010

Section-4v4.1

4) Lines and edges must be smooth and in the same plane — not irregular, wavy or

serrated. There should be no rough edges or excess metal (i.e., flashing), especially in the airways.

stress crack

Incorrect Correct

Incorrect Correct

flashing

5) All parts must be free of investment plaster residue.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Assembly

5 ASSEMBLY

5.1 Soldering 1) All soldered parts must be securely joined and aligned.

Correct Incorrect 2) Assembly must be consistent among all production runs. 3) Solder must be the same colour as the metal. 4) There must be no visible soldered joints, and surrounding areas must be level and

smooth. There must be...

- no dullness, burn marks, darkening, oxidation or any other discoloration on

the joint or surrounding areas.

- no excess solder on the joint or surrounding areas.

- no pits or pin holes in the joint.

- no open seams or obvious seam lines.

Correct Correct Incorrect Incorrect 5) Heads/settings must be in alignment when viewed from the top, front and side of

the piece.

14 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-5v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Assembly

Incorrect

Correct

5.2 Glue Assembly General guidelines 1) All glued parts must be securely joined and aligned. The proper type and amount

of glue must be used to sufficiently secure the joined parts. 2) Assembly must be consistent among all production runs. 3) The glue must be thoroughly dried prior to packing and shipping.

QVC 15 © QVC 2010

Section-5v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Assembly

4) Any visible or excess glue on the piece, either on the front or reverse side, is not acceptable.

Incorrect Correct

Unacceptable usage of glue — natural transparent gemstones It is not acceptable to use glue, epoxy or other similar binding agents to secure or affix natural transparent gemstones (e.g., sapphire, emerald, garnet, etc.). Any exception to this restriction must be indicated on the Product Description Sheet/Specification Sheet and approved by QVC QA during First-Piece Evaluation. Acceptable usage of glue It is acceptable to use glue, epoxy or other similar binding agents to secure following types of jewellery:

- costume jewellery

- imitation stones

- natural opaque gemstones (e.g., onyx, jadeite, nephrite jade, etc.)

- cultured and mabé pearls

Note: When natural opaque gemstones and cultured pearls are set in precious metal, glue should be used in conjunction with another setting method such as pegs or prongs.

16 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-5v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

6 STONE PLACEMENT AND SETTINGS

6.1 Stone Placement 1) The table and girdle of the stone must be set level, with no noticeable slanting.

Incorrect Correct 2) The stone must fit securely and firmly in the setting, regardless of setting style.

There must be no gaps, no danger of falling out, and no loose stones. A loose stone is cause for rejection, even if there is no possibility of the stone falling out.

3) Stones should be set at a consistent height among all production runs. 4) For rings, the culet of the stone should not extend below the finger rest or touch

the skin when worn. For pendants, the stone should not extend beyond the base of the setting.

Incorrect

finger rest

Correct

QVC 17 © QVC 2010

Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

5) For adjacent stones, the stones should be set as close as possible and in the same plane, unless specified otherwise.

Incorrect Correc

6.2 Prong Settings 1) The tip of the prong must be pushed firmly onto the stone. There must be no gap

between the tip of the prong and the stone. 2) Crooked prongs are not acceptable. gap tip crooked

prong Incorrect Correct

18 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

3) Prongs must be symmetrically positioned and equal in length and shape within the piece and throughout the production run. Extremely short prongs that fail to secure the stone are unacceptable.

Incorrect Correct 4) Prongs must be properly polished and finished. After polishing, there must be...

- no burrs.

- no tool marks or scratches.

- no excess metal.

- no rough edges.

- no fire scale.

- no visible porosity or holes.

- no lint.

- no casting residue.

- no polishing compound.

QVC 19 © QVC 2010

Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

5) Overpolishing that makes the prongs too thin is unacceptable.

overpolished prong

Correct Incorrect 6) For jewellery items with “V” or chevron prongs, the two arms of the “V” should be

symmetrical, and the angles should be consistent within the piece. The point of the “V” must be crisp (but not sharp) and not rounded. The two arms of the “V” should not be pushed too closely together.

Incorrect Correct

20 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

6.3 Bezel Settings 1) The edges of the bezel must conform snugly to the shape of the stone. There

must be no gaps between the inner edge of the bezel and the stone. The outline of the bezel should be symmetrical.

Incorrect Correct 2) The bezel must be even in height all around the stone, and it must not dip or rise

or expose the girdle. The edges of the bezel must not be jagged or uneven, and there must be no excess metal or residue between the inner edge of the bezel and the stone.

Correct Incorrect 3) For back-set bezels, the table of the stone should sit as high as possible above the

inner edge of the bezel.

QVC 21 © QVC 2010

Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

Incorrect Correct 4) For back-set bezels, the prongs must not be visible through the top of the stone.

6.4 Channel Settings 1) All stones in the channel must be set in the same plane. No stone should be

crooked or at a different height than any adjacent stones.

Incorrect Correct 2) Adjacent stones should be placed girdle to girdle, with no gaps between stones.

However, a minute gap is permitted for round stones. For a minute gap to be acceptable, it must be uniform throughout the channel.

22 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings

Incorrect

Correct - girdle to girdle Correct - uniform gaps 3) The edges of the channel must be straight or in the same plane with no

irregularities. Incorrect Correct

6.5 Pave Settings 1) The table of the stone should sit above the surface of the surrounding area. 2) All burrs and tool marks must be removed. However, any overpolishing that

compromises the appearance of the design is unacceptable.

QVC 23 © QVC 2010

Section-6v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Polishing

24 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-7v4.1

7 POLISHING

7.1 Pre-Polishing For items with stone settings, all prongs and mountings must be properly polished prior to setting the stone.

7.2 General Requirements 1) All metal surfaces, including settings and findings, must be polished to a clean,

smooth, consistent, highly-polished finish, unless specified otherwise. No part of an item should be hazy or have a dull film.

2) After polishing the piece, there should be...

- no burrs.

- no tool marks or scratches.

- no excess metal/flashing.

- no rough edges.

- no fire scale.

- no visible porosity or holes.

- no lint.

- no casting residue.

- no polishing compound.

3) Any overpolishing that compromises the appearance and strength of the piece is

unacceptable. The design details, hallmark, trademark and country of origin must remain distinct and legible.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Polishing

4) The intended shape must remain intact, and there must be... - no thinned parts, especially prongs, channels, bezels, etc. within the piece.

QVC 25 © QVC 2010

Section-7v4.1

- no wavy, uneven edges or distorted shapes.

Incorrect Correct

Incorrect Correct

Incorrect Correct

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Finishing and Texture Treatments

8 FINISHING AND TEXTURE TREATMENTS

8.1 General Requirements 1) The finish should be consistent in texture and direction.

26 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-8v4.1

Incorrect Correct 2) There must be no nicks, scratches or tarnish. 3) Any textured finish on the underside of the piece must be uniform, clean and

bright. 4) For all jewellery, it is not acceptable to use any kind of synthetic clear coating,

such as e-coat, lacquer or polyurethane.

8.2 High Polished Finish High polished pieces should have a reflective, mirror-like finish.

8.3 Matte, Satin, Frosted or Sandblasted Finish The finish must be consistent and clean, and not uneven, dirty or oily.

8.4 Brushed or Florentine Finish A Florentine or brushed finish must be consistent, and the pattern of lines should run in a uniform direction throughout the piece.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Finishing and Texture Treatments

QVC 27 © QVC 2010

Section-8v4.1

8.5 Oxidation or “Antiquing” 1) Oxidation, anodising or “antiquing” must be consistent, controlled and not spotted

or blotchy. (Oxidation for darkening silver is the only acceptable method.) 2) The dark surface should not be excessive (i.e., “caked on”). 3) The dark surface should not flake off of the piece.

8.6 Diamond Cut Finish 1) A diamond cut finish must be consistent in size, direction, spacing and brilliance

throughout the piece. 2) All cut surfaces must have a highly reflective, mirror-like finish. 3) There must be no holes or sharp burrs.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Mechanical Working Parts

28 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-9v4.1

9 PLATING

9.1 General Requirements 1) When applicable, plated items must be stamped and advertised in accordance

with CIBJO guidelines 2) All plating must be...

- durable

- hard

- lustrous

- dense (non-porous)

- visually uniform in thickness, colour and luster

Note: QVC may send plated jewellery to an independent laboratory to test for plating thickness and durability.

3) Any tarnishing, peeling, cracking or exposed base metal will be cause for rejection. 4) For two-tone items, plating must not “bleed” or spill onto adjacent areas that

should not be plated. 5) For items plated with rhodium, the rhodium must be applied completely over the

intended area, but not spill onto any unintended areas. It must be a uniform white colour, with no traces of discoloration.

9.2 Plated Findings Plating must not impair the performance of the finding. However, any plating on the finding must match the main piece in colour, finish and durability. Nickel plating is NOT acceptable. Any other coatings must be declared on submission to first piece inspection (lacquer etc.)

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings

QVC 29 © QVC 2010

Section-10v4.1.doc

10 FINDINGS

10.1 General Requirements 1) All findings must function properly:

- They must be secure, durable, easy to operate and comfortable to wear. - They must remain securely locked until opened intentionally. Although all

findings must remain securely locked, they should not be difficult to open. - They must never freeze or stiffen. - The tension must be appropriate for the item and must maintain performance

with reasonable wear. 2) The colour of the finding must match all components of the piece. 3) Findings must be consistent in type, size, weight and colour among all production

runs. It is strictly forbidden to use any finding that deviates from the specifications. 4) Findings must be consistent in tension and performance among all production

runs. 5) Unless specified otherwise or approved, the karatage/fineness of the finding must

match the main piece.

(QVC recognises that some items may require the finding’s karatage/fineness to vary from the main piece, e.g., 22ct bracelet with a 18ct clasp. This exception must be approved by the QVC Buyer prior to production. In cases in which the finding is a different karatage, both the main piece and the finding must be appropriately trademarked and hallmarked with their respective karatages.)

6) Plating must not impair the performance of the finding. However, any plating on

the finding must match the main piece in colour, finish and durability. 7) Base metal components can NOT under any circumstances be permanently affixed

to gold or silver items (soldered, or riveted etc.) unless they meet with the “Mixed Metals” guidelines laid down by the Hallmarking Act (3.10)

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings

10.2 Bolt Ring and Lobster Claw Clasps 1) The spring action must be smooth and secure. When opened and then released,

the clasp should close completely and securely without assistance. 2) The clasp and jump ring should be proportionate. The clasp should be large

enough to enable the jump ring to move freely within the clasp. 3) For bolt ring clasps, the inside wire and tube must be proportionate and aligned.

When closed, the wire must fit securely in the tube. The wire must also be long enough to resist slipping out of the tube.

wire

tube

Incorrect Correct 4) For lobster claw clasps, the parts must be proportionate and aligned. When

closed, there must be no gap between the tongue and the claw.

claw

tongue

Incorrect Correct

30 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-10v4.1.doc

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings

10.3 Box Clasp and Hidden Box Clasp 1) The tongue must fit snugly and securely in the box of the clasp and should make a

“click” sound when locking. 2) The tongue must never come out of the box without firmly depressing the plunger. 3) It is only acceptable for the tongue of a silver box clasp to be base metal and this

Must be marked “Base Metal”. plunger

QVC 31 © QVC 2010

Section-10v4.1.doc

pegcatch

hinge

box tongue

10.4 Figure Eight Safety Catch 1) The catch and peg must be aligned and securely attached to the piece. Incorrect correct 2) The catch must be symmetrical and move smoothly on the hinge. 3) The peg should be polished and shaped like a round bead. 4) The catch must close securely over the peg and remain locked until opened intentionally. The catch should not bend when opening.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings

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10.5 Fold-Over Clasp 1) The clasp must move smoothly on the hinge. 2) When closing, the clasp must snap securely shut.

10.6 Earring Clutches A. Post and Butterfly or scroll 1) There must be enough friction between the post and butterfly or scroll to ensure a

secure fit. 2) The post must be sturdy enough to resist bending or breaking when moderate

pressure is applied. 3) Post length

- Unless specified otherwise, the following are minimum and maximum lengths for earring posts:

Minimum post length:

7 mm

Maximum post length:

11 mm

- While the lengths of posts may vary according to the design of the piece, QVC prefers that posts allow for the following useable length:

Post useable length standard:

9.4 mm

- Regardless of the length, all posts must be long enough to extend through the

ear lobe and leave enough space for the butterfly or scroll to secure the earring comfortably.

- Excessively long posts that cause discomfort will be rejected. 4) Post thickness

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings

- Unless specified otherwise, the following are minimum and maximum

thicknesses for earring posts:

Minimum post diameter :

0.66 mm (0.026 in.)

Maximum post diameter:

0.84 mm (0.033 in.)

- QVC prefers that Vendors use the following post thicknesses, depending on the materials and design of the piece:

Standard Diameter Medium Diameter Heavy Diameter

0.66 mm (0.026 in.) 0.69 mm (0.027 in.) 0.79 mm (0.031 in.) 5) Tips and edges must be rounded and buffed to a smooth finish with no sharp

points, burrs or edges. 6) Assembly

- The post must be securely soldered, straight and perpendicular to the back surface of the piece.

Incorrect Correct - Assembly must be consistent within the pair and among all production runs.

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings

Incorrect Correct B. Omega Fitting 1) The spring hinge must provide enough tension to enable the clip to close securely

and fit snugly against the ear lobe. 2) A clip that fits too tightly and causes discomfort will be rejected. 3) If comfort pads are required, they must be aligned and securely attached to the

clip. C. Lever back/ Euro wire 1) The hinge must provide enough tension to enable the lever to shut securely

against the wire. 2) The hinge must move smoothly and never freeze or stiffen. 3) The tension must be consistent among all pieces and production runs. D. Ear wire/ Shepherds hook 1) The ear wire must be sturdy, consistent in shape, and not crooked or bent. 2) Tips and edges must be properly rounded and buffed, with no sharp edges, points

or burrs.

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Mechanical Working Parts

11 MECHANICAL WORKING PARTS All mechanical working parts, including springs, joint/catch for pins, screws, hinges, rivets, clasp snap tongues, etc. must function properly. They must be durable, corrosion resistant and secure. (All mechanical working parts undergo thorough testing by QVC QA.) For joint/catches for pins, the point of the pin stem should not extend beyond the catch.

Incorrect Correct

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Chains (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)

12 CHAINS (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)

12.1 General Requirements 1) All findings, mechanical parts and other components must function in accordance

with QVC’s quality requirements and specifications. 2) Metal must be free of noticeable defects, and polished, finished, assembled and/or

plated in accordance with QVC’s quality requirements and specifications. 3) The chain must be strong, durable and flexible enough for its intended use. It

should resist breakage when subjected to moderate pulling and tension. 4) End caps must be secure with no sharp edges. 5) Jump rings (i.e., “o” rings) must be aligned and secure. If the jump ring is

soldered, there must be no excess solder.

Incorrect

Correct Correct 6) Links should fit each other with precision. There must be no unnecessary gaps,

movement or stiffness between the links. Alignment and flexibility must be consistent throughout the piece.

7) Jump rings must be large enough to move freely when fastened to a clasp. 8) The gauge, length and width of the chain must be consistent among all production

runs.

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Chains (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)

12.2 How to Measure Chains General guidelines 1) The length and width of all chains are measured in centimetres. 2) QVC strongly recommends that chains be measured using a British standard

metal ruler with a government approval mark. When the chain is longer than 30 centimetres, QVC strongly recommends using a ruler that is longer than 30 centimetres.

3) The width is determined by measuring the chain at its widest section. If the chain

is supposed to taper in width, it should be stated on the Product Description Sheet/Specification Sheet.

4) To determine the length of the chain, the “useable length” is measured. The

useable length is the portion of the chain which contributes to the length of the piece when the finding is fastened and the piece is worn. The useable length also signifies the “fit” of the piece.

5) When measuring the length, lay the chain as flat and as straight as possible

against a ruler. If the chain cannot lie completely straight, straighten it out as much as possible without distorting or damaging the piece. (See illustration below of a chevron chain.)

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Measuring chain with a box, hidden box or barrel clasp Do not measure the tongue or any other part that is not included in the “useable length.”

chevron chain

tongue

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Chains (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)

38 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-12v4.1

Measuring chain with a spring ring or lobster claw clasp Measure the entire piece from end to end. spring ring or lobster claw clasp Measuring chain with a fold-over clasp Do not measure the clasp or any other part that is not part of the useable length.

box, hidden box or barrel clasp

hinge

fold – over clasp

12.3 Chain Length Tolerances One quarter inch (5 mm) over tolerance For all chain lengths, the over tolerance is five millimetres (5mm.). A chain may measure up to a 5mm. longer than the specified length. Any chain that is over 5mm. longer than the specified length will be rejected. Zero (0) under tolerance There is no under tolerance for chain length. Any chain that measures less than the specified length will be rejected. Note: The above tolerances also apply to chain extenders.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Rings

13 RINGS To ensure that Suppliers understand QVC’s terminology, the following is an illustration which points out the main parts of a ring:

gallery

bezel setting

makersmark and hallmark

claw

chevron claw

sizing area/ palm shank

inner shank

shoulder Under bezel

outer shank

13.1 General Requirements 1) The setting must conform to all of QVC’s quality requirements and specifications. 2) Metal must be free of noticeable defects, and cast, assembled, polished, finished

and/or plated in accordance with QVC quality requirements and specifications. 3) Any hallmark and makersmark must be properly applied to the piece and conform

to UK Hallmarking guidelines and QVC’s quality requirements and specifications.

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Rings

4) Galleries, claws and other open areas should be well calibrated and symmetrical.

Incorrect Correct 5) The inner and outer shank must not have any sharp, rough or unpolished edges

that would cause discomfort or injury. 6) The shank must be sturdy and durable enough for its intended use. The shank

should be able to withstand moderate pressure when pinched between the thumb and index finger.

7) The shank must be comfortable when worn, but not so thin or soft as to

compromise the strength of the ring. 8) The shank must be round. Any ring that is not round or “out-of round” will be

rejected.

Incorrect Correct

40 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-13v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Rings

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9) Any evidence of a sized shank (e.g., seams, excess solder) will be cause for rejection.

13.2 How to Measure Ring Size 1) QVC measures ring size by using a grooved mandrel that is calibrated to British

Standard BS1283 : 1945. Since commercial mandrels vary widely, the Supplier should also use mandrels calibrated to the same standard. (See chart below.) To ensure you are measuring your sizes the same as our QA team you can purchase calibrated ring mandrels from QVC (contact [email protected])

British Standard 1283 : 1945

Size Diameter(in)*

Diameter(mm)*

Size Diameter(in)*

Diameter(mm)*

Size Diameter(in)*

Diameter(mm)*

A 0.4750 12.065 J 1/2 0.6223 15.806 T 0.7695 19.545 A 1/2 0.4828 12.263 K 0.6300 16.002 T 1/2 0.7772 19.741 B 0.4905 12.459 K 1/2 0.6378 16.200 U 0.7850 19.939 B 1/2 0.4983 12.657 L 0.6455 16.396 U 1/2 0.7928 20.137 C 0.5060 12.852 L 1/2 0.6533 16.594 V 0.8005 20.333 C 1/2 0.5138 13.051 M 0.6610 16.789 V 1/2 0.8083 20.531 D 0.5215 13.246 M 1/2 0.6688 16.988 W 0.8160 20.726 D 1/2 0.5293 13.444 N 0.6765 17.183 W 1/2 0.8238 20.925 E 0.5370 13.640 N 1/2 0.6843 17.381 X 0.8315 21.120 E 1/2 0.5448 13.838 O 0.6920 17.577 X 1/2 0.8393 21.318 F 0.5525 14.034 O 1/2 0.6998 17.775 Y 0.8470 21.514 F 1/2 0.5603 14.232 P 0.7075 17.971 Y 1/2 0.8548 21.712 G 0.5680 14.427 P 1/2 0.7153 18.169 Z 0.8625 21.908 G 1/2 0.5758 14.625 Q 0.7230 18.364 Z 1/2 0.8703 22.106 H 0.5835 14.821 Q 1/2 0.7308 18.562 H 1/2 0.5913 15.019 R 0.7385 18.758 I 0.5990 15.215 R 1/2 0.7463 18.956 I 1/2 0.6068 15.413 S 0.7540 19.152 J 0.6145 15.608 S 1/2 0.7618 19.350

* The Diameter refers to the inside diameter of the ring.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Rings

2) The ring should be dropped on the mandrel, allowing the ring to centre itself with

its own weight. The ring should not be pushed onto the mandrel. 3) The ring size is determined by the leading edge of the shank.

leading edge

13.3 Ring Size Tolerances A. One Half (1/2) over tolerance For all ring sizes, the over tolerance is one half (1/2) of a size. The ring may be up to a 1/2 of a size greater than the intended size. Any ring that is over 1/2 of a size greater than the intended size will be rejected. B. Zero (0) under tolerance There is no under tolerance for ring sizes.

42 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-13v4.1

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

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14 GEMSTONES Unless specified otherwise, the following standards apply to all gemstone products, including natural, synthetic (man made synthesis of natural elements to form the gem stone), simulated/imitation (man made using man made materials to simulate a natural gem stone), and organic gemstones (pearls, mother of pearl, sea bamboo etc..).

14.1 Specifying Gemstone Requirements QVC expects all gemstone jewellery to meet our quality standards. However, QVC also recognises that quality can vary from one type of gemstone to another, depending on factors such as characteristics for a particular gemstone material. Because of these variations in quality, it is imperative that the QVC Buyer and Vendor establish agreed-upon standards by considering important factors such as the following:

- calibration (size)

- minimum carat weight

- clarity grade (e.g., eye clean vs. table clean)

- colour range

- cut quality & design

- intended setting

- any other pertinent quality considerations for a particular type of stone

Criteria for the above factors should be established and written on the Gemstone Declaration Form in time for sample to be submitted to First-Piece QA. If the Vendor expects a noticeable range or variation with respect to an item’s cut, clarity or colour, it is strongly recommended that the Vendor submit a set of stones representing the range to the QVC Buyer, prior to the First-Piece Evaluation, to determine whether QVC will accept such a range.

14.2 Terminology for Parts of Gemstones

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

To ensure that Vendors understand QVC’s terminology, the following illustrations point out the parts of a gemstone: A. Faceted gemstone table

44 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-14v4.3.doc

girdle crown

pavilion

culet

B. Fancy shapes head

shoulder

belly

wing

point

cleft point

wing

belly

wing

point

lobe

belly

wing

point

marquise heart pear

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

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14.3 Gemstone Identification In compliance with FTC guidelines, QVC will reject any jewellery or gemstone item that is inaccurately identified or represented. It is imperative that Vendors accurately identify all gemstone product and verify any claims with respect to a gemstone’s identity and country of origin. QVC uses the following documents/policies to ensure that all gemstones are accurately identified and described by Vendors. Note: QVC will not accept misnomers. A “misnomer” is any term that misrepresents the identity, origin, formation, composition or appearance of a gemstone. Gemstone Declaration For all items which contain inorganic or organic gemstone material that is natural, synthetic or cultured, the Vendor must complete a Gemstone Declaration Form when submitting a First-Piece Sample. (Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form.) This ensures proper identification of gemstone jewellery and assists QVC QA during the First-Piece Evaluation. Country of Origin This is where the stone was mined not purchased must be declared on the Gemstone Declaration Form when submitting a First-Piece Sample. Treatments

For all natural, synthetic and cultured gemstones, the Vendor must disclose, on

the Gemstone Declaration Form (see Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration

Form), ALL treatments used including: Dyed or any alteration to colour.

For a full list of acceptable gemstone treatments see Appendix D : Acceptable

Gemstone Treatments.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

14.4 Gemstone Clarity Inspection method Unaided-eye inspection When evaluating clarity, our QVC Inspectors look from the crown view (i.e., top view, table-view, face-up ) with an unaided eye at a “bent elbow” distance, which is approximately six (6) to twelve (12) inches from the eyes. Vision is assumed to be 20/20 and colour vision is assumed to be normal.

table crown view Magnification Although QVC Inspectors do not use magnification to detect defects, they may use a 10X jeweller’s loupe or 2X to 5X glasses to obtain a clearer view of an eye-visible feature or defect. General clarity standards The following are clarity standards which must be met, regardless of clarity grade, price, type of gemstone or any other agreed-upon criteria: 1) There must be no inclusions (internal flaws) or blemishes (surface flaws), imposed

naturally or by the manufacturing process, that threaten the stone’s structural integrity.

2) There must be no noticeable blemishes such as chips, cracks, scratches, polishing

marks on the crown or girdle. For transparent stones in particular, any blemish on the pavilion or culet that can be seen when looking through the crown is unacceptable.

3) It is unacceptable to use glass or resin (i.e., “filler”) to enhance a stone’s clarity. 4) All stones of the same type within an individual piece should match in clarity.

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

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5) All pieces among every production run must conform to the agreed-upon clarity grade and range for that item.

6) If the Vendor expects a noticeable variation with respect to clarity, QVC may

request the Vendor to provide a set of stones which represents the range of variation.

Clarity grades Depending on the specified criteria and standards, gemstones will be expected to conform to one of the following clarity grades:

Eye clean

No inclusions should be visible under the entire crown. (For example, blue topaz is expected to meet this clarity grade.)

Table clean

No inclusions should be visible under the table facet. (For example, garnet is expected to meet this clarity grade.)

Slightly included

Slight or minor inclusions are acceptable under the crown. (For example, ruby is expected to meet this clarity grade.)

Included

Noticeable to obvious inclusions are acceptable under the crown. (For example, emeralds are expected to meet this clarity grade.) Note: Such inclusions must be uniform throughout the stone and must not threaten the stone’s structural integrity or give a mottled appearance of colour.

14.5 Gemstone Colour 1) Each individual stone should be uniform in tone (lightness/darkness) and intensity

(brightness) from the crown view. There must be no obvious colour-banding or colour-zoning from the crown view, even if the variation is within the specified colour range, unless specified otherwise.

2) Stones intended to be the same colour in a multi-stone item should match in colour. Even if a colour range is broad for a QVC item, the stones within an individual piece must not noticeably vary.

3) All pieces among every production run must conform to the specified colour range.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

4) If the Vendor expects a noticeable variation with respect to colour, QVC may request the Vendor to provide a set of stones which represents the range of variation.

14.6 Gemstone Cut 1) There should be no extreme cut deviation in faceting, outline shape or depth that...

- threatens the stone’s structural integrity.

- impairs proper setting.

- noticeably detracts from the stone’s beauty.

- compromises the guaranteed minimum carat weight.

2) The cut should be symmetrical and consistently proportioned. There should be...

- no noticeably off-centred tables. Incorrect Incorrect Correct

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

- no noticeably off-centred culets.

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- no girdles which are noticeably “wavy” or inconsistent in thickness.

Incorrect Incorrect Correct

inconsistent girdle

“wavy” girdle

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

3) Fancy shapes that fail to conform to industry visual standards are not acceptable.

The following are examples of distortions in major fancy shapes that are cause for rejection. (The dotted lines represent the correct shape.)

Marquise uneven wings bulged wings flat wings Pear acute point undefined point Heart

50 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-14v4.3.doc

uneven lobes

sides not parallel

undefined cleft

Emerald

narrow and wide corners Oval uneven shoulders 4) In multi-stone designs, stones which are intended to have the same outline shape,

cutting style, size, height and/or length must match each other in cut proportion.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

Correct incorrect 5) All pieces among every production run must conform to the specified cutting style

and outline shape. 6) If the Vendor expects a noticeable range or variation with respect to cut, QVC may

request the Vendor to provide a set of stones which represents the range of variation.

14.7 Gemstone Carat Weight The following section applies to all items in which the total carat weight is advertised.

14.7.1 Specifying Carat Weight The Vendor and QVC Buyer must indicate the specified minimum total carat weight of the piece (“specified carat weight”) on the following documents:

- QVC Descriptive Information (responsibility of the QVC Buyer) (see Appendix

C: Gemstone Declaration Form.)

This information must be specified on the document listed above before shipping product to the QVC warehouse.

14.7.2 Verifying Carat Weight During First-Piece Evaluation During First-Piece Evaluation, the carat weight of the First-Piece Sample is measured and compared to the specified carat weight listed on the Product Specification Sheet. The First-Piece Sample should not weigh less than the specified carat weight.

14.7.3 Establishing Carat Weight During QVC Warehouse Receipt Inspection

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

52 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-14v4.3.doc

Upon receiving a shipment of product at the QVC warehouse, QVC QA conducts a Receipt Inspection. During Receipt Inspection of the first receipt, QVC QA weighs pieces in the receipt and establishes the advertised minimum carat weight (“advertised carat weight”). This advertised carat weight is compared to the specified carat weight listed on the Product Specification Sheet. NOTE: If there is a discrepancy between the specified carat weight and the advertised carat weight, the Purchase Order and price are subject to review by the QVC Buyer. NOTE: The advertised carat weight established during Receipt Inspection is the carat weight that will be advertised to customers. There must be no piece in the first receipt or future receipts for a QVC item that weighs less than this advertised minimum carat weight. NOTE: Some Purchase Orders establish a guaranteed minimum weight prior to Receipt Inspection. If this is the case, then any discrepancy between the already-established guaranteed minimum weight and the advertised weight will be cause for rejection.

14.7.4 Restriction for Reorders The following restriction applies to all reorders/subsequent receipts (2nd, 3rd, etc.) of a QVC item: For all subsequent receipts, the minimum carat weight must never be less than the advertised carat weight established during Receipt Inspection of the first receipt. There is no under tolerance for the advertised carat weight of subsequent receipts. For example, if the advertised total carat weight of the first receipt was 1.2 carats, but the total minimum carat weight for the second receipt is only 1 carat, then the entire second receipt will be rejected. Any over tolerance is subject to review by the QVC Buyer.

14.8 Gemstone Polishing 1) On the surface of the stone, there should be...

- no scratches.

- no polishing marks or lines.

- no residual polishing rouge.

- no water stains. 2) The polish should be even and consistent in luster.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

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3) The facet edges or girdle should not be abraded or rounded by overpolishing. 4) Stones in a multi-stone item should match each other in polish and luster. 5) All pieces among every production run must match each other in polish and luster.

14.9 Cultured Pearls and Pearls QVC QA inspects cultured pearls and pearls with an appreciation for their unique, inherent properties. Nevertheless, pearls must conform to fundamental standards of quality outlined throughout section 10.14: Gemstones and below. General cultured pearl and pearl requirements 1) The nacre surface of cultured pearls and pearls must have a consistent, smooth

and lustrous finish with...

- no artificial coating or lacquer.

- no prominent blisters.

- no prominent crevices.

- no cracked, chipped, thin or peeling nacre.

- no obvious dull or dark spots.

- no excessive nicks, especially around the drill holes.

- no extra or misaligned drill holes.

- no visible cement or any other type of adhesive.

2) Multi-cultured pearl and multi-pearl items (e.g., necklace, earrings) or an item set

(e.g., bracelet/necklace combination) should match in colour, size and overall quality, unless specified otherwise.

Setting 1) Cultured pearls and pearls must fit neatly and securely within the setting.

2) The primary method for setting cultured pearls and pearls must be mechanical,

such as a hidden peg or prongs. Any glue used in conjunction with the primary setting method must be consistent in application and not visible. (See section 5.2: Glue Assembly.)

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

Stringing 1) Cultured pearls and pearls should be strung with silk, polyester, monofilament or

any other material that is strong and durable enough to resist breakage. 2) Either knotted or unknotted stringing is acceptable, as long as the string provides

enough strength and durability. The knots in knotted stringing must be pulled tightly in order to stabilise the length.

3) Cultured pearls and pearls must be evenly spaced and knots should be consistent

in size. Incorrect Correct 4) Cultured pearls and pearls should “drape” naturally when worn with. . .

- no exposed string.

- no excessive sliding.

- no excessive twisting.

- no excessive stiffness.

Incorrect Correct

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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones

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14.10 Gemstone Size Whenever necessary, QVC QA measures the dimensions of gemstones in millimetres (mm). When evaluating the size of a gemstone, QVC QA considers the following basic factors:

- Overall visual consistency among stones in an individual multi-stone item

- Overall visual consistency among pieces and production runs

- Conformance to any QVC size specifications

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Establishing Gram and Carat Weights

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15 GRAM WEIGHT This section applies to all items which QVC purchases by the gram, or items in which the gram weight is advertised.

15.1 Specifying Gram Weight The Vendor and QVC Buyer must indicate the finished minimum piece weight (“finished piece weight”) on the following documents:

- Product Specification Sheet (see Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet)

15.2 Verifying Gram Weight During First-Piece Evaluation During First-Piece Evaluation, the piece weight of the First-Piece Sample is measured and compared to the finished piece weight. The First-Piece Sample should not weigh less than the finished piece weight.

15.3 Establishing Gram Weight During QVC Warehouse Receipt Inspection

Upon receiving a shipment of product at the QVC warehouse, Q VC QA conducts a Receipt Inspection. During Receipt Inspection of the first receipt, QVC QA weighs pieces in the receipt and establishes the advertised minimum gram weight of the piece (“advertised piece weight”). This advertised piece weight is compared to the finished piece weight listed on the Product Specification Sheet. NOTE: If there is a discrepancy between the specified piece weight and the advertised piece weight, the Purchase Order and price are subject to review by the QVC Buyer. NOTE: The advertised piece weight established during Receipt Inspection is the weight that will be advertised to customers. There must be no piece in the first receipt or future receipts for a QVC item that weighs less than this advertised minimum piece weight. NOTE: Some Purchase Orders establish a guaranteed minimum weight prior to Receipt Inspection. If this is the case, then any discrepancy between the already-established guaranteed minimum weight and the advertised piece weight will be cause for rejection.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Establishing Gram and Carat Weights

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15.4 Restriction for Reorders The following restriction applies to all reorders/subsequent receipts (2nd, 3rd, etc.) of a QVC item: For all subsequent receipts, the minimum piece weight must never be less than the advertised piece weight established during Receipt Inspection of the first receipt. There is no under tolerance for the minimum piece weight of subsequent receipts. For example, if the advertised piece weight of the first receipt was 7 grams, but the minimum piece weight of the second receipt is only 6.8 grams, then the entire second receipt will be rejected. Any over tolerance is subject to review by the QVC Buyer.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Coloured Gold

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16 COLOURED GOLD As gold’s natural colour is yellow in order to change this colour it is necessary to alloy the gold with the required percentage of other metals to facilitate the change from the natural yellow to the accepted colour ranges, the acceptable colour influencing metals are: Copper for Red Gold (Rose Gold) and Nickel, Palladium & Silver for White Gold. QVC acceptable percentages of these metals are set out below:

16.1 Red Gold (Rose Gold) The primary colouring agent for the range of red gold’s of which rose gold is one, is copper. The higher the percentage of copper the redder the final alloy. The level of copper is obviously dictated by the carat of gold being produced (9ct, 14ct or 18ct in QVC’s case) and the particular working properties required for production. The recommended levels are as follows: 9ct Alloy 37.5% Gold + Minimum 55% copper up to 62.5% copper dependant on working properties & depth of colour required. 14ct Alloy 58.5% Gold + Minimum 31.1% copper up to 41.5% copper dependant on working properties & depth of colour required. 18ct Alloy 75% Gold + Minimum 19.5% copper up to 22.4% copper dependant on working properties & depth of colour required. These percentages are based on the standard Au–Ag–Cu ternary system. If a stronger whitening metal than silver (nickel for example) is used in the alloy to change working properties then more copper will be required to ensure the acceptable colour is achieved. For example: for every 1% of nickel 0.5% more copper would be required.

16.2 White Gold For white gold the metallurgy is different as there are a number of metals that can influence the whiteness of gold. These fall into two main groups:

Primary whiteners: the most common of which are Nickel and Palladium. Secondary whiteners: the most common of which are Sliver and Zinc.

The approximate effects of these metals are 1% Silver is equal to 1% Zinc, 0.6% Nickel and 0.6% Palladium. Because nickel is the most economic of the two primary whiteners and there are the constraints of the Nickel compliance regulations the following recommended alloys have taken these factors into account.

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Coloured Gold

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The World Gold Council working party set two white gold standard: Premium White: which requires no Rhodium plating. Standard White: which will require Rhodium plating.

For each of the carat gold’s below there is an indicator of the percentages required to meet the premium and standard white requirements. The recommended levels are as follows: 9ct Alloy 37.5% Gold + Minimum 45% Silver up to 62% Silver dependant on working properties & depth of colour required.

Premium • Minimum 62% silver

Standard • Minimum 45% silver

14ct Alloy 58.5% Gold + Minimum 22.5% whitener (of which 12% has to be primary whitener) up to 26.5% whitener (of which 16% has to be primary whitener) dependant on working properties & depth of colour required.

• Premium Minimum 26.5% whiteners (of which 16.5% are primary

whiteners) • Standard

Minimum 22.5% whiteners (of which 12% are primary whiteners) 18ct Alloy 75% Gold + Minimum 19.5% whitener (of which 7.4% has to be primary whitener) up to 24.5% whitener (of which 17% has to be primary whitener) dependant on working properties & depth of colour required.

• Premium • Minimum 17.5% whiteners (of which 13.5% are primary whiteners,

combined with other alloying elements) or a minimum of 24.5% whiteners (of which 17% are primary whiteners)

• Standard • Minimum 19.5% whiteners (of which 7.4% are primary whiteners, combined

with other alloying elements)

Jewellery Quality Requirements: Coloured Gold

60 QVC © QVC 2010 Section-16 v4.3.doc

16.3 Measuring the colour of gold The final arbiter as to whether the item meets the accepted standards of colour will be the CIE Lab co-ordinates of the sample compared to the standards (BS EN 28654:1993. ISO 8654:1987 & World Gold Council guidelines for White Gold). This would be carried out using an instrument known as a colour spectrophotometer. The measured values are converted into 3 colour co-ordinates that reflect the human perception of colour. These are the degree of brightness (reflectivity) L, the red-green component, a*, and the yellow-blue component, b* of colour. It is important that colour is measured under standard conditions of surface finish, lighting and measurement parameters.

Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet

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Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet

©QVC, 2009

Appendix B: Purchase Order Appendix B: Purchase Order

QVC ii

Appendix B: Purchase Order Appendix B: Purchase Order

QVC ii

©QVC, 2009 ©QVC, 2009

Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form

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Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form

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©QVC, 2010 ©QVC, 2010

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

iv QVC ©QVC, 2010

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments This Appendix represents only those gemstone treatments that QVC UK accepts. Although there are a number of treatments commonly allowed by the jewellery industry, QVC accepts only those listed on the following pages for each particular gemstone type.

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Agate (also see onyx)

All colours • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Normal. Certain stones may fade in heat or light.

Patterned Agate (crazy agate)

• Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Normal. Certain stones may fade in heat or light.

Blue Lace • Treatment-free Normal.

Alexandrite (see Chrysoberyl)

Amazonite • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Avoid heat, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Amber

Yellow Golden Brown

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Heated with pressure

• Heated oils and pressure

Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaning.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Red • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Heated oils and pressure

Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaning.

Amber Doublet, Green

• An assembled product with golden amber on a black base

Special care required. Avoid abrasives.

Amethyst • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Some unheated material may fade with prolonged exposure to strong sunlight.

Ametrine • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Ammolite • Treatment-free

Ammolite Doublet • Assembled product Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Ammolite Triplet • Assembled product Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Andalusite • Treatment-free

Apatite • Treatment-free

Aquamarine (Blue to Green Beryl)

• Treatment-free

• Heated Normal.

Aventurine, Green • Treatment-free Normal.

Beryl

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Pink (Morganite) • Heated

• Irradiated Normal.

Yellow-Green • Treatment-free

• Irradiated Normal.

Calcite • Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Avoid sudden temperature changes & harsh chemicals.

Carnelian

Reddish-brown chalcedony

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Normal. Certain stones may fade in heat or light.

Chalcedony (special term)

• Treatment-free, term reserved by QVC for non-treated chalcedony

Note: chalcedony is sometimes called agate or onyx.

Certain stones may fade in heat or light.

Chrome Diopside (green)

• Treatment-free Avoid sudden temperature changes & harsh chemicals.

Chrysoberyl

Alexandrite • Treatment-free Normal.

Cat’s-Eye • Treatment-free Normal.

Transparent green, yellow, brown

• Treatment-free Normal.

Chrysoprase • Treatment-free Normal.

Citrine • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Coral (Is only acceptable from sustainable sources)

Black • Treatment-free Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners.

White • Treatment-free

• Bleached Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners. May discolour over time.

Pink, Orange, Red

• Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners.

Gold • Treatment-free

• Bleached from black coral

Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners.

Blue • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners.

Coral, Sponge • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Danburite • Treatment-free

• Heated Avoid temperature changes, steaming, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Diamond, Natural Colour (White, Champagne, Yellow)

• Treatment-free Normal.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

viii QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Diamond, Colour Treated (Yellow, Red, Blue, Pink, Green, Black and Fancy Hues)

• Irradiated

• Heated

• HTHP (high temperature and high pressure)

NOTE: The vendor is responsible to disclose all treatments to the Buyer prior to accepting a Purchase Order. The vendor must disclose all treatments on the Gemstone Declaration and Treatment Disclosure Form when submitting any sample to QVC.

Normal.

Emerald • Treatment-free

• QVC accepts emeralds treated with colourless oil only.

Avoid temperature changes, steaming, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Fluorite • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Avoid temperature changes, steaming, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Garnet: Almandite, Demantoid, Grossularite, Pyrope, Rhodolite, Spessartite, Tsavorite

• Treatment-free for all varieties listed

Note: If dye was used, the dye must be removed with solvents.

Avoid sudden temperature change (for all garnets listed).

Hematite • Treatment-free Normal.

Howlite

White • Treatment-free Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Other Colours • Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Iolite • Treatment-free Normal.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Jade, Jadeite

Russian Jade • Treatment-free Avoid ultrasonic cleaners.

Green, Lavender, Orange, White & Yellow

• Treatment-free

• Bleached with acid,

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour, and

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid ultrasonic cleaners.

Blue & Pink • Bleached with acid,

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour, and

• Impregnated with resin

Avoid prolonged strong light, chemicals, and ultrasonic cleaners. May discolour over time.

Jade, Nephrite • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & strong light.

Jasper • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Normal.

Jet • Treatment-free Avoid sudden temperature change.

Kyanite • Treatment-free

• Heated Avoid temperature changes, steaming, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Labradorite • Treatment-free Avoid ultrasonic cleaners.

Lapis Lazuli • Treatment-free

• Dyed resulting in stable colour

Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Denim Lapis • Treatment-free

Malachite • Treatment-free

Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Marcasite • Treatment-free

Moonstone

Blue, Grey, Orange, Rainbow, White

• Treatment-free Normal.

Mother-of-Pearl

White • Treatment-free Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Colours • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Mother-of-Pearl Doublet

• Assembled product Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Mother-of-Pearl Watch Dial

• Assembled Product Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners and repolishing.

White • Treatment-free Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners and repolishing.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

QVC xi ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Colours • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in a stable colour

Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners and repolishing.

Bright Fashion Colours

• Dyed, resulting in a stable colour

Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners and repolishing.

Obsidian • Treatment-free Normal.

Onyx (also see agate)

Black, Blue, Green, Red

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with colourless Resin/Polymer

Note: black chalcedony is known in the trade as black onyx.

Certain stones may fade in heat or light.

Opal

Opals with play of colour: Black, Semi-black, White

• Treatment-free Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Fire Opal, Fire Opal with Matrix

• Treatment-free Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Boulder • Treatment-free

• Impregnated with colourless Resin/Polymer

Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xii QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Translucent opals: blue, green, pink

• Treatment-free Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Dalmatian • Treatment-free Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Opal Doublet • Assembled product Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Opal Triplet • Assembled product Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners & repolishing.

Pearl, Cultured Akoya • Treatment-free

• Bleached

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Irradiated

• Chemical treatment

Avoid cosmetics, household cleaners & ultrasonic cleaners.

Pearl, Cultured Freshwater

• Treatment-free

• Bleached

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Irradiated

Avoid cosmetics, household cleaners & ultrasonic cleaners.

Pearl, Mabe

(A cultured assembled product with a cultured pearl cap.)

• Bleached

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

Extra Special. Avoid cosmetics, household cleaners, ultrasonic cleaners & sudden shocks.

Pearl, South Sea • Treatment Free Avoid cosmetics, household cleaners & ultrasonic cleaners.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

QVC xiii ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Pearl, Tahitian • Treatment Free Avoid cosmetics, household cleaners & ultrasonic cleaners.

Peridot • Treatment-free Avoid sudden temperature changes, harsh chemicals, and ultrasonic cleaners.

Prehnite • Treatment-free

Avoid heat, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Quartz

Green to Yellow, Limon, Orange to Brown

• Heated

• Irradiated Normal.

Pink, Rose • Treatment-free Normal.

Rutilated • Treatment-free Avoid cosmetics, household cleaners & ultrasonic cleaners.

Smoky • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Some material may fade with prolonged exposure to strong sunlight.

Cat's-Eye Quartz • Treatment-free Normal.

Tiger’s-Eye, brown

• Treatment-free

• Chemical bleaching using acid or bleaching agents

Normal.

Tiger’s-Eye, red • Heated

• Chemical bleaching using acid or bleaching agents

Normal.

Hawk’s-Eye, blue • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Chemical bleaching using acid or bleaching agents

Normal.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xiv QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Lazulated • None Avoid heat, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Mint • Heated

• Irradiated Avoid heat, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Cinnamon • Heated

• Irradiated Avoid heat, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Moss Green • Heated

• Irradiated Avoid heat, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Drusy • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Plated

Normal.

Quartzite • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with colourless Resin/Polymer

Normal.

Rhodochrosite • Treatment-free Normal.

Rhodonite • Treatment-free Normal.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Ruby • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Filling of surface cavities and fractures as a by-product of heating and visible under 10 X magnification.

NOTE: The vendor is responsible to disclose all treatments to the Buyer prior to accepting a Purchase Order. The vendor must disclose all treatments on the Gemstone Declaration Form when submitting any sample to QVC.

Normal.

Sapphire

Blue, Pink, Orange, Yellow

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Filling of surface cavities and fractures as a by-product of heating and visible under 10 X magnification.

NOTE: The vendor is responsible to disclose all treatments to the Buyer prior to accepting a Purchase Order. The vendor must disclose all treatments on the Gemstone Declaration Form when submitting any sample to QVC.

Normal.

Serpentine • Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid sudden temperature changes, chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xvi QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Shell, abalone and other

• Treatment-free

• Dyed, resulting in stable colour

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid sudden temperature changes, cosmetics, chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Sodalite • Treatment-free

• Dyed

• Impregnated with resin/polymer

Avoid sudden temperature changes & ultrasonic cleaners.

Spinel • Treatment-free Normal.

Sugilite • Treatment-free Normal.

Sunstone • Treatment-free Avoid use of ultrasonic cleaners.

Tanzanite (Zoisite) • Heated Avoid sudden temperature changes & ultrasonic cleaners.

Topaz

Blue • Heated

• Irradiated Normal.

Pink/Red, YellowithOrange

• Heated Avoid heat & ultrasonic cleaners.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

QVC xvii ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Tourmaline

Chrome Green, Cat’s-Eye

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Yellow / Orange, Pink

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Green/Blue (Teal)

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Indicolite (deep, vivid green-blue)

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Red & Purple • Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

Normal.

Rubellite (deep, vivid purple-red)

• Treatment-free

• Heated

• Irradiated

• QVC accepts only Colourless oil

Normal, or when oil treated, avoid steaming, chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

Turquoise See table below for details on acceptable and unacceptable treatments.

Avoid exposing turquoise jewellery to hot water, household chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Unakite • Treatment-free Normal.

Varisite • Treatment-free

Avoid exposing varisite jewellery to hot water, household chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Zircon

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xviii QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Acceptable Treatment Special Care

Green, Brown • Treatment-free

• Heated Avoid harsh abrasives.

Light Brown • Treatment-free

• Heated Avoid harsh abrasives.

Blue, Yellow • Treatment-free

• Heated Avoid harsh abrasives.

This chart reflects treatments that QVC

accepts for the specific gemstones

listed.

Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

QVC xix ©QVC, 2010

Turquoise Acceptable Treatment Unacceptable Treatment

• Treatment-free

• Natural turquoise impregnated with colourless resin or plastic, as long as the gemmological properties of natural turquoise are not altered (impregnated natural turquoise with the gemmological properties of turquoise, including a Refractive Index of at least 1.590, but not over 1.660*)

• Natural turquoise treated with Proprietary Zachery Method, as long as the gemmological properties of natural turquoise are not altered

• Natural turquoise impregnated with excessive wax such that when the turquoise is held to a hot point, the wax melts, expands, and liquefies on the surface of the stone.

• Natural turquoise that is dyed or has any other colour treatment

• Very porous natural turquoise that is heavily impregnated with a high percentage of either a colourless resin or plastic, which alters the gemmological properties of the material such as the Refractive Index of less than 1.590*.

• Any simulated matrix

• Natural turquoise coated with any foreign material

• Any manufactured product that imitates or is meant to represent turquoise

• Any rock, including dyed and heavily impregnated rock consisting of natural turquoise and other minerals

*Any material with a Refractive Index that is outside the range of 1.590 to 1.660 is not acceptable. However, a Refractive Index within the range does not guarantee that the material is acceptable. Other gemmological proofs must confirm that the material is acceptable. © 2010 QVC. All rights reserved. All trademarks, service marks and logos are owned by or registered to QVC, Diamonique Corporation. All other product or brand names are trademarks of their respective owners

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xx QVC ©QVC, 2010

Appendix E: UN-Acceptable Gemstone Treatments This Appendix represents those gemstone treatments that QVC UK will NOT accept. Although there are a number of treatments commonly allowed by the jewellery industry, QVC accepts only those listed in Appendix D.

Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Agate (also see onyx) Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Alexandrite Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Amazonite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Amber - All Colors

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Amethyst

Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Diffusion using chemicals combined with heat. Dyed.

Wipe with damp soft cloth only.

Ametrine

Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Ammolite Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Andalusite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Apatite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Aquamarine Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Wipe with damp soft cloth only.

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

QVC xxi ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Aventurine, Green

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Beryl

Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Wipe with damp soft cloth only.

Calcite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Carnelian Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Cat's-eye Quartz Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Chalcedony (often called agate or onyx)

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Chrome Diopside

Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Chrysoberyl Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed.

Normal for all varieties listed.

Chrysoprase

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Citrine

Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Coral Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners.

Coral, Sponge Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic cleaners.

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xxii QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Diamond, Natural Color – white, champagne, yellow

QVC does not accept color or clarity treatments for natural diamonds with natural color.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Diamond, Treated color - yellow, green, blue, black, pink, green, and fancy hues

QVC does not accept clarity treatments for color-treated natural diamonds.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Drusy Quartz Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Emerald

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed. Penetration of fissures with colored oil, wax or resin.

Avoid temperature changes, steaming, chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Fluorite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Garnet

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Hematite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Howlite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Diffusion using heat and chemicals.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Jade, Jadeite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp cloth only.

Jade, Nephrite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Jasper Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Jet Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Kyanite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Labradorite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Lapis Lazuli - Denim Lapis

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Malachite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Moonstone - All Colors

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Morganite (Pink Beryl)

Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins. Dyed.

Wipe with damp soft cloth only.

Mother-of-pearl Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Mother-of-pearl Watch Dial Coating with ink or foil. Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Obsidian Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Onyx (see also agate) Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Opal

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Impregnated with colorless oil, wax, and resins. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Pearl - Cultured Akoya, Cultured Freshwater

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Peridot Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

xxiv QVC ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Dyed.

Prehnite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Quartz

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Quartz - Cat's-eye, Tiger's-eye, Hawk's-eye, Drusy

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Quartzite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Rhodochrosite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Rhodolite Garnet

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Rhodonite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only. Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Ruby

Intentional filling of surface cavities and fractures with a foreign material, including glass and easily visible under 10 X magnification. Oiling with colorless or colored oil, wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed with colored oil. Irradiation.

Fracture fillings in ruby are fragil. Avoid repolishing or recutting. Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Sapphire - All Colors

Intentional filling of surface cavities and fractures with a foreign material, including glass and easily visible under 10 X magnification. Oiling with colorless or colored oil, wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed with colored oil. Irradiation. QVC UK does not accept Beryllium treatment

Fracture fillings in sapphire are fragil. Avoid repolishing or recutting. Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

QVC xxv ©QVC, 2010

Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Sard Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Shell - Abalone and Other

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Sodalite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Spinel

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Sugilite

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or other applied substances or baked films. Dyed.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only

Sunstone

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Tanzanite (Zoisite)

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films. Oiling with colorless or colored oil. Impregnated with wax, natural resin, or manmade material. Dyed.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Topaz - All Colors

Oiling with colorless or colored oil, wax, natural resin, or manmade material for all colors listed. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins for all colors listed.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Tiger's-eye Quartz, Brown, Red

Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Tourmaline

Oiling with colored oil, wax, natural resin, or manmade material for all colors listed. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins for all colors listed. Diffusion using chemicals combined with heat. Dyed.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.

Turquoise Impregnated with colorless oil or wax. Painted or lacquered with black lines.

Avoid exposing turquoise jewelry to hot water & household chemicals. Very special care required. Wipe gently with

Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments

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Gemstone Un-Acceptable Treatment

Special Care

Dyed. soft damp cloth only.

Unakite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Varisite Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films & other applied substances or baked films.

Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.

Zircon - All colors

Oiling with colorless or colored oil, wax, natural resin, or manmade material for all colors listed. Infilling with glass, plastic or resins for all colors listed.

Wipe with soft damp cloth only.


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