In a recent article about the current market for jewellery I wrote that the value of
later twentieth century jewellery is escalating with especial interest in pieces
from the 1960s and 1970s. This article looks at top end jewellery from that period.
The 1960s and 1970s revolutionised fashion, not only in its style but in the way it
was purchased too. Couture was out and High Street boutiques were in.
The same trend happened in jewellery. Independent jewellery designers challenged the
established manufacturers with their innovative designs, mass produced jewellery using
cheap, new materials was startling in design and easy on the pocket. The top end
jewellers had to rethink their output to keep a foothold on the market. They had to work
out how to push back the boundaries while retaining wearability for their customers. The
result was a move towards striking sculptural designs, new cuts of gemstones and
different textured finishes.
The First International Exhibition of Modern jewellery held in Goldsmith’s Hall in 1961
showcased many of these innovations and set the trend for that decade. One of the intro-
ductions was the princess cut for diamonds, where thinner slices of diamond were under-
scored with parallel lines to produce lots of sparkle. The jewellery displayed at the
exhibition showed less concern for status and a greater appreciation of creativity, using
innovative techniques to produce special effects.
One of the most important exhibitors was the influential Andrew Grima. His ground-
breaking ideas using textured gold with rough or unusual stones, in organic shapes,
based on rocks, leaves and shells, was copied throughout the decade and his ideas still
influence jewellery designers today. He won many awards and a royal warrant following
the purchase of a brooch incorporating carved rubies by Prince Philip for H. M. The
Queen. There are more pieces by Grima in the collection of the Worshipful Company of
Goldsmiths than anyone else. His pieces have never lacked popularity.
Another exhibitor was John Donald who used innovative ways of producing texture and
sculptural effects in gold, using heat and flame. This included working molten gold in
water. He combined these effects with uncut precious stones and crystal.
Finnish sculptor and designer Bjorn Weckstrom increased the reputation of Scandinavian
design by creating jewels for Lapponia Jewellery Company of Helsinki. His distinctive
industrial and space age shapes incorporated diamonds and other precious gems. He
achieved texture through a new technique of injecting wax into rubber moulds allowing
great flexibility in both texture and shape.
Further enhancement came in 1966 when The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths held
the Georg Jensen Centenary exhibition which demonstrated how the company continued
to produce innovative jewellery designs. Their award winning designer Henning Koppel,
was responsible for establishing what we now call Scandinavian Modern Style with his
amoebic shapes. Although silver lent itself to an industrial, space age look, for example
John Donald produced a brooch in the form of a leaf using combined pieces of silver
Jewellery
18ct gold and diamond brooch, by Cartier,modelled as a flower, brilliant-cut diamond clustercentre to an openwork leaf border, stem withdiamond single stone leaves, London import mark1966. Signed Cartier with maker’s mark JC andNo. N3952. Photo courtesy of Christie’s ImagesLtd. 2009.
Pair of gold and diamond earclips, by Cartier offlowerhead design with textured gold leaves anddiamond stamens, clip fittings, London importmark 1970. Stamped JC for Cartier, one earclipnumbered L37 with indistinct third number. Sold:Christie’s £5,000 hammer 07/04/09. Photo courtesyof Christie’s Images Ltd. 2009.
Diamond and sapphire brooch. Designed as afloral spray with central cushion-cut sapphire anddiamond flower flanked by two old mine brilliant-cut diamond and diamond cluster flowers withdiamond leaves and stylised ribbon binding, c1960.Photo courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2009.
Diamond, coral and emerald owl brooch, byGubelin, modelled as a stylised wirework owlperched on a branch, the body with navette shapedcoral, corallium, feathers, head with singlecabochon emerald and pavé diamond eyes, c1960.Signed with maker’s mark for Gübelin, Frenchmarks. Sold Christie’s £2,750 hammer 07/04/09.Photo courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2009.ANTIQUES INFO - July/August 09
Diamond and sapphire setnecklace c1970, abstractspray design, set throughoutwith brilliant cut diamonds,(total diamond weight approx9.50ct) terminating with pearshaped, mixed cut sapphires& central circular sapphire,diamond set articulated chain,set in white metal (assumed18ct white gold) weight70gm. Halls Fine Art,Shrewsbury. Jun 07. HP:£4,000. ABP: £4,705.
1960s white gold diamondfloral and foliate spraybrooch set marquise, brilliantand baguette cut stones.Gorringes, Lewes. Oct 00.HP: £3,800. ABP: £4,469.
1960s 18ct yellow gold, rubyand diamond set necklace offlexible chevron linking.(one stone a.f.) Gorringes,Lewes. Oct 00. HP: £1,200.ABP: £1,411.
1970s Cartier 18ct gold anddiamond stylised leaf brooch,textured open design, 2.5in,with original box. Gorringes,Lewes. Sep 08. HP: £1,200.ABP: £1,411.
1960s 18ct yellow goldflexible bracelet, front with aruby and diamond set tiedbow, 70grms. Gorringes,Lewes. Oct 00. HP: £700.ABP: £823.
Art Deco style sapphire anddiamond plaque ring, c1970,rectangular form with centralsapphire of approx. 2.2cts.Rosebery’s, London. Mar 06.HP: £650. ABP: £764.
Alabaster & Wilson, 1960s18ct white gold and platinummounted multi-gem setbrooch, designed as floralspray, central frosted carvedrock crystal flowerhead, setthroughout with blue zircons,amethysts and diamonds,approx 6 x 4.5cm. Fellows &Sons, Birmingham. Oct 03.HP: £550. ABP: £646.
Pink tourmaline/diamondring, c1960, oval pinktourmaline with a cluster ofbrilliant cut and marquisecut diamonds at either side,stamped 18ct Plat, finger size P. Sworders, StanstedMountfitchet. Nov 07. HP:£350. ABP: £411.
9ct gold broad textured brickbracelet, c1970, marks indistinct, 18.5mm wide,52.6g. Dreweatt Neate,Donnington. Nov 04. HP:£210. ABP: £247.
Group of four modern goldand gem brooches: 9ct goldand small round brilliantdiamond nine stone clusterand textured leaf spiral spraybrooch, an Italian ruby anddiamond stylised stranded-spiral bow brooch, stamped‘K18’, a 9ct gold/diamond 7stone abstract molten-leafbrooch, import marks forLondon 1970, & a 9ct whitegold and diamond nine stoneabstract bark effect entwinedbranch shaped-round open-work brooch, import marksfor London 1970. DreweattNeate, Donnington. Nov 04.HP: £200. ABP: £235.
1970s 18ct gold mountedruby and diamond pendant,designed as a cluster of 13flowerheads, each claw set tothe centre with either abrilliant cut diamond or acircular cut ruby, overalllength approx 4.4cm. Fellows& Sons, Birmingham. Oct 03.HP: £180. ABP: £211.
Yellow metal sapphire anddiamond brooch, c1970, ofstarburst design, set witheleven sapphires and fivediamonds. Rosebery’s,London. Mar 06. HP: £150.ABP: £176.
Textured star burst brooch,c1960, with a dispersedcluster of rubies anddiamonds, import hallmarkLondon 1969. Sworders,Stansted Mountfitchet. Sep07. HP: £120. ABP: £141.
9ct gold geometric stylenecklet, c1960, of open,overlapping form with barkfinish and dispersed culturedpearls to the front section,with an interlocking clasp.Sworders, StanstedMountfitchet. Nov 07. HP:£100. ABP: £117.
14ct amethyst set brooch,c1970, of openwork designwith textured finish and withfour randomly set amethysts.Rosebery’s, London. Mar 06.HP: £75. ABP: £88.
Large church charm, opensup to show marriageceremony, h/m 9ct 1960s.(14.4g) A F Brock & Co Ltd,Stockport. Feb 07. HP: £60.ABP: £70.
Ornate amethyst fob, largeround amethyst set in base,fob decorated with symbolsfrom playing cards: hearts,spades, clubs & diamonds,h/m 9ct 1960s. (9.6g gross)A F Brock & Co Ltd,Stockport. Feb 07. HP: £50.ABP: £58.
Pair of 9ct gold oval cuff-links, with engine turneddecoration, monogrammedand hallmarked Birmingham,1970, fitted case, togetherwith a 9ct gold signet ring,crested and inscribed‘Sursum Corda’. (2) Fellows& Sons, Birmingham. Oct 03.HP: £50. ABP: £58.
Large lighthouse charm, bulbfitted inside to light up, ‘notworking’, h/m 9ct 1960s.(7.3g) A F Brock & Co Ltd,Stockport. Feb 07. HP: £30.ABP: £35.
