Junker & Ruh Outsole Stitcher Parts List and Manual

8/16/2019 Junker & Ruh Outsole Stitcher Parts List and Manual

1/14

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LT

DK

42

7 HO

ENG

DE

NM

AR

K

fo r

u

tsole

S

titch

er

M

ode

l

8

W

ork

ing

ns

truc

tions

an

d S

pare

an

i

si


2/14

3

oreword

By means

of

Model

308

Hand

Sole Stitching Machine

you

can,

in a few

minutes,do work which would take

hours

if done

by

hand,

and when

done

properly

it

is

indistinguishable

from the

best hand

work.

If

desired,

a

special

table

58L3 for

the

sewing of rubber

soles can

also

be

supplied.

Every

machine

is

thoroughly

tested before being sent out.

Faulty

handling

only

can

cause

incorrect

stitching and

it

is

therefore

advisable

to ascertain

whether the

needle

has

been

placed in

the

machine according

to the

directions and

whether

the tension

is

correct before any

attempt

is made to alter the machine itself.

When properly used, kept in a clean state, and regularly oiled,

the

machine should

work for many years in an absolutely

e

pendable manner

and

without

trouble.

The

efficiency of the machine

and the

durability

of the

stitches

depend

a

great deal on

serviceable needle and

on

a

good

thread.

It is

therefore advisable

to

procure

the

needles and

thread

from the

suppliers of

the machine.

Unpacking

and Erecting

the

Machine.

The

presser

foot

lever 146 which, to

conserve

packing

space,

is

put in

the

machine in

reverse must be

taken

out and

fitted

on

the

machine,

as shown

on

fig.

4.


3/14

4

Fig

Preparation

of the

Shoe

To

obtain a

perfect stitch

it

is essential that

he

shoe

be

properly

prepared

for

the

purpose Before laying

on

the

new

sole

the

welt

must

be smoothed

and flattened

The

new

sole

is

then

fastened

on

preferably

by means a few

clamps or

tacks

and

then trimmed to

the

exact

size

required

The

channelling

is the

most

important preliminary

work

for

machine stitching The

channel

must

be cut fairly

deep

and the

lip

must

be well

raised

The

channel

for

machine

work

differs

from

the

channel for

hand work in

so

far

as

the

channel

bed

should

be

substantially

wider

for

machine

stitching

than

for

hand

work

The

channel

should be cut at

a

distance from

the

edge

of

the

sole

in

accordance with the work


4/14

n or

der

to m

ake stitc

hing

easier

is

advisable

to moisten

the

sole

before clamping

on

the

boot

Please

note

th t

pe

rfec

t

stit

chin

g

of

sol s can

oniy

be achieved

as

a result

o

practice

t

is

impossible

to stitch

on

a new sol

r

fectly

at the

firs

t

a

ttem

pt t must

also

be

ascertained

th

t the ch

n

nel

is

accurately

cut

so

as

to provide an e

ffici

ent

guide

to

the

work

passing th

rou

gh the

machine

The

eed

le

Thr

ead

Before

use

examine

closely

how

the

machine

is

th

read

ed In

fig

the

run

o

the

thr

e d

is

shown once

more in

a

diagram for

easier

checking

Fig


5/14

6

hu

ttle

Th

read

ig

7

A

a

nd

B

The

satin finish top

thread

should never

be

used for

the shuttle;

us

e only

wax

ed p

itch

ed th

read

f

or

t

he

s

huttl

e.

The

s

huttl

e

spoo

l

A

w

hich

c

an

be

wou

nd

by

the

li

ttle hand

s

pooi w

inde

r sup

plie

d w

ith

the mach

ine

F

ig.

4 o

r

w

ith

a

ny sew

ing

mac

hine

,

is u

in

s

huttl

e B

as s

how

n in

Fig

. 7 A.

Her

e

agai

n

i

s

im

port

ant

that

you

not

e the

di

recti

on of

the

threa

d.

B

efo

re p

uttin

g th

e spoo

l A in

the shu

ttle B

pu

t t

he t

hrea

d c

thro

ugh hol

e

e

f

rom

the insi

de o

utw

ards,

t

hen

unde

r spr

ing

f F

ig.

B

. Ou

t again

thr

oug

h hole

g

and th

enc

e

fro

m

und

erne

ath upw

ard

s

through the

hole in the

thread

guide h, which

is

movable. The spooi

is

no

w put

i

nto

th

e

s

huttl

e

so t

hat un

win

ds

in t

he d

irec

tion o

f t

he

a

rrow

in

Fi

g. 7 B.

T

he

th

read gu

ide

h Fig

. 7 A

an

d

B

is

th

en

pulle

d r

oun

d

ward

s th

e mi

ddle

of

the

sh

uttle

F

ig.

7

and

car

e

shou

ld

be ta

ken

to

see

that

t

he

thr

ead

g

uide is pus

hed rig

ht

ho

me in

to

th

e gro

ove

left fo

r the

pur

pose

on

the

ed

ge

o

f t

he

shu

ttle.

Th

en

a

shor

t len

gth

of

t

hrea

d is

pull

ed ou

t

and

the

te

nsio

n adju

sted

.

Afte

r in

serti

ng

the

shu

ttle tu

rn the

s

titch

ing

p

late

57

Fig.

4

back

into position

and

tighten

in

position with

the milled

edge

s

crew

No

. 7

p

lace

d a

t

the

side of th

e

ma

chin

e.

ig


6/14

7

Stitching

The

machine

is

now ready

for stitching

The

operating

lever is

pushed

right

back which brings the needle

to

its

highest position

The end

of

the needle

thread

and

the

end of the

shuttle

thread are

put under

the

presser

foot

132 .

The shoe is

held

lightly

by

the left

hand welt

upwards

as

in

hand

sewing

and

the channel

prepared

in

the

manner

previously

described

is placed

over

the

channel

guide

of

the

stitching

plate The

lifting

lever 146 of

the automatic

pres

ser

arm 128

positioned

at

the right

side of the machine

is pushed

back

then

the presser

foot

132

will

hold

the shoe

on

the

channel

guide

The stitching

is

done

by

mov n

the

operating lever in a

regular

movement

completely

forward

then completely

back

It

should

be

noted

that

the lever

each

time it is moved forward

strikes

the

stop

before

being moved

backwards

The

shoe is carried

along

automatically

by the

needle

and

should be

held

loosely

so that

the needle

does

not

meet

with

any

resistance

when

carrying

the work

forwards

or

the

needle

may bend

or

break

If

the

machine is

used in

a cold room

the

pitched

thread

may

become stiff

so

that

it

is

advisable

to

heat shuttle carrier

in

order

that

the

pitched

thread may soften to allow

it

to

be

pulled

properly

C

B

Fig. 7A

A

Fig.

B


7/14

through

the

work.

When the job

is

finished

the

operating lever

is pushed right

back and a few inches

of

needle thread are

pulled

out

before same

reaches

the

thread

feeder

in

order to avoid

any pull on the needle.

After the presser

foot

has

been

lifted up

by

means of the lifting

lever

the

shoe

can

be removed. The

threads

on the

machine should

be

left

sufficiently

long

to

have

the machine ready for

further

sewing

im

mediately.

Care

should

be

taken

especially when

working

in

hard and

thick

leather that

the

needle

thread

goes

through

a

thickish

solution

of

gum

tragacanth. If this it not done

the

tanning

acids

adhere

to

the needle

making

it difficult

for

the

needle

to

penetrate and therefore

causing

it

to break.

Beginners are advised

to

practice stitching

on

bits of

channelled

leather

before

they

start stitching

on footwear in order

to

g t used to

the movement. It

is important

to

oil all

parts

exposed to friction

frequently

with a good quality

sewing

machine

oil.

It

is

also

visable

to put

a

few

drops of

oil

on

the

shuttle

carrier

when

working

with

the machine

warmed up.

Relative

Sizes

of Needles

and

Threads.

The

following

table

will show:

Size

of

Needle 6

Size

of thread

6

The size

of

thread

must

always

correspond to the size

of needle.

It

is advisable

according

to

the

material

to use

thread

of the

same

siz

as that

of

needle or

one

whole

siz

smaller. The same

size

should

be used for

needle

thread

and shuttle

thread.

Only

flax fibre

linen

thread

six

strands

right hand

twist

is

suitable.

This

can

be

obtained

from the

makers

of

the

machine.

Tensions and

Their

Regulation.

The quality

of the stitch

depends

on the

tension

on the

needle

thread

which

therefore requires

careful

attention.

This

tension

should

be

regulated in such

a

manner

that

both

threads are

pulled


8/14

9

through

evenly,

so that the loop

comes

in the

middle

of

the

leather.

The

stitch

must be alike on

both

sides

to be perfect.

If, when

stitching,

the needle

thread

or the

shuttle

thread

not

well

pulled

through,

or if knots

or

loops occur,

this

can easily

be

remedied

by adjusting

the

tension

on the needle

thread

by

tightening

or loosening

the

screw

of

the tension

wheel.

Length of Stitch.

The

stitch

can

be lengthened

up

to

a

maximum

of 1/6”

by

means

the

stitch

regulator

Fig.

5 .

To

increase the

length

of

the stitch

the screw

is

turned

clockwise after

loosening

the set

screw. For

a

shorter

stitch

screw in the

opposite direction.

After

adjusting

to

the

desired length

of

stitch,

the

set

screw

must

be

screwed

tight,

or

the

screw

may

loosen whilst

stitching

and

the length

the

stitch may

alter.

Faults

and

Their

Correction.

Every

machine is

thoroughly

tested before

leaving

the factory.

Should any

fault occur

so that

the machine

does

not stitch

correctly

the cause

will

usually

be

found

to be

due to

one

of

the

following:

The

causes

of the

upper

thread

breaking may

be

That the

eye of

the

needle

is

sharp

and cuts the

thread.

2

That

the

needle

is

not put

in

correctly

or put

in

too

deeply.

3

That the

tension

on

the thread is

too

strong.

4.

That

the

thread

is

uneven or

knotty.

5

That thread

is

not

properly threaded

on

the

machine

or

has

become

tangled.

6

That the

point

the

shuttle

may have

been

damaged

by

the

needle

which occurs mainly if the movement

backwards

of

the

operating

lever

is not

finished

before

the lever

is pulled

forward

again .

The

point

the shuttle

will

then

be

roughened

or notched

and

will cut

the

tread.

in

this

case

polish

the

shuttle

or change

it.

7.

That the

needle

thread

is

stiff and

brittle,

instead

of

supple,

as

a

result

of

sewing

without

the use

tragacanth.


9/14

8

T

ha

t

th

e

n

ee

dle

a

nd

th

rea

d

do

n

ot

f

it o

ne

a

no

th

er

.

T

e

st

th

is

.

T

ak

e

o

ut

the needle and push

through a

piece

o

leather.

Th

e

th

re

d sh

o

ul

d n

ow

be

e

as

ily

pu

lle

d

th

ro

ug

h th

e

lo

ng

g

ro

o

ve in

t

he

ne

ed

le

.

Sh

o

uld

th

e

thr

ea

d

fi

t t

oo

tig

h

tly t

he

n

the

th

re

ad

to

o c

oa

rs

e

fo

r

t

he

ne

ed

le

an

d

a

st

ron

g

er

ne

ed

le

o

r

fin

er

th

re

ad

m

u

st be

us

ed

. S

o

ft

an

d

b

a

dly

pr

ep

ar

ed

th

re

ad

ca

us

es

po

or w

o

rk,

so

us

e

g

o

od

t

hr

ea

d o

nly

.

L

o

op

s o

r m

i

sse

d s

tit

ch

es o

cc

ur

When

the

th

re

ad ha

s

b

ee

n

in

c

orr

ec

tly

th

re

ad

ed or

n

ot

t

hr

ea

de

d

a

t al

l.

2

W

he

n

the

th

rea

d i

s

n

ot

t

hr

ea

de

d

pr

op

er

ly

i

n

th

e

sh

ut

tle

, s

o

th

t t

he

s

hu

ttl

e te

ns

io

n

is

to

o

lo

o

se

.

3

W

he

n

the

n

ee

d

le

is

n

o

t

p

ut in

pro

p

er

ly

or is

pu

t in

to

o d

ee

pl

y.

4

W

he

n t

he

m

ac

hin

e

is

no

t

oil

ed

o

r

is

g

re

as

y

an

d

t

he

re

fo

re w

o

rk

s

h

ea

vil

y.

S

tit

ch

s

too

l

oo

se

Tighten first the tension

on

the ne

ed

le

th

re

ad

.

2

T

ry

ti

gh

te

nin

g t

he

te

ns

io

n

on

th

e

sh

utt

le

t

hr

ea

d

y

m

ea

ns

o

f

th

e

sp

rin

g f

F

ig.

7

B

.

h

n

th

e

u

p

pe

r

sti

tch

s

g

oo

d

b

ut th

e

sh

ut

tle th

re

ad

lie

s

fla

t

o

n

t

he le

at

he

r

If

so

th

e

ten

si

on o

n t

he

ne

ed

le

th

re

ad

is

in

su

ffi

ci

en

t.

W

h

en th

e l

ow

e

r s

ti

tch s

go

o

d

b

u

t th

e sh

ut

tle

th

re

ad l

ie

s fla

t

o

n

the

le

at

he

r

If

so

th

e

t

en

sio

n

on t

he n

ee

d

le

th

re

ad

is

t

oo tig

ht o

r

on

th

e

shuttle

thread

too

loose.

re

ak

ag

e

o

th

e

n

ee

dle

s

m

os

tly du

e

t

o

th

e fo

llo

w

in

g ca

us

es

:

T

ha

t

the

n

ee

dl

e

is

b

en

t

a

n

d

st

rik

es

o

n

t

he

sid

e

of

t

he

h

ole

in

th

e

sti

tch

in

g

p

la

te.

2

T

ha

t

ha

rd s

ub

st

an

ce

s

in

t

he

s

ho

e

e

.

g

na

il

s

c

om

e u

n

de

r

t

he

n

ee

dl

e.

3

T

ha

t t

he

sh

oe

is

p

us

he

d o

r

pu

lle

d w

hi

lst

be

in

g

s

tit

ch

ed

b

eg

in

n

er

s

do th

is un

co

n

sc

iou

sl

y’

.

4 That

the presser

foot

is

not

screwed

on

sufficiently tight

and

m

o

ve

s w

hi

lst

t

he sti

tc

hin

g

is

be

in

g do

ne

.


10/14

5 Th

at no

trag

acan

th

has

be

en

used

a

nd

c

onse

que

ntly

t

anni

c ac

id

is

deposited

o

the

needle.

h e

ope

ratin

g

leve

r st

i ks

tigh

tly

If

the

ope

ratin

g

leve

r ca

nno

t rea

ch

to bot

h

e

xtrem

itie

s

is

pos

sible

tha

t the

r

ack

co

ntro

lling

th

e mov

eme

nt

o

the

shu

ttle

c

arrie

r

h

as be

en c

logg

ed. In

this

ca

se la

y the

ma

chin

e

flat

o

n

its

side

,

re

mov

e

the

scre

w

u

nder

the s

hutt

le a

nd

s

hutt

le

bo

x

a

nd t

horo

ugh

ly c

lean a

nd

oi

l

th

e

s

mall

co

g

w

hee

l

und

er

the

s

hutt

le

carr

ier. Car

e

m

ust be

take

n t

o

p

ut car

rier

b

ack

in

the

correct

position.

The shuttle carrier

is

in

the

correct position

wh

en th

e o

pera

ting

lev

er

is

perp

endi

cula

r

on

t

he

top o

the

mac

hine

and th

e

rig

ht

ed

ge

of

the

shu

ttle

car

rier

is flu

sh

with

th

e

lef

t

side o

th

e nee

dle

cha

nne

l.

Be

fore

tak

ing

the

p

art

o

ut

o

th

e

ma

chin

e, ex

amin

e

i

ts

pos

ition

c

lose

ly

or

m

ark

by

p

enci

l o

r

c

halk

,

so

tha

t

can

be

put back

in

t

he s

ame

posi

tion.

Sho

uld

you

noti

ce

t

hat

w

ith

ev

ery

sti

tch th

e

ma

chin

e

i

s

c

omi

ng

heavier

to work this will be due

to

the needle

thread

having

spi

lt,

fo

rmi

ng

a pad,

whic

h accu

mula

tes,

ul

tima

tely

p

reve

ntin

g

the

t

hrea

d fro

m

go

ing thr

ough

ca

usin

g

to b

reak

if the o

pera

ting

lev

er

is

force

d.

n

this

case

cu

t the dam

aged

th

read

and

re-th

read

the

nee

dle. T

his

c

an only

o

ccur

if th

e nee

dle

ey

e is ro

ugh

or

sha

rp

or

if

th

e

t

hrea

d

i

s

u

neve

n

or kn

otty

.

W

hen

t

he tens

ion

is

n

ot ti

ght e

nou

gh t

he ne

edle

thr

ead

may

jam

in the

shu

ttle.

In th

is

case

rem

ove

the

bo

ot and

m

ove the

stitc

hing

plat

e a

side

and

loo

sen

th

e jamm

ed

th

read

end

.

K

eep

th

e

shoe

in

a vertical

position whilst stitching to

prevent

the

need

le

f

rom

ben

ding

a

nd st

rikin

g a

gain

st the

shu

ttle.

Shou

ld

you ha

ve

tri

ed all

the

for

egoi

ng

wi

thou

t su

cces

s do

not

gi

ve

the

ma

chin

e

to

an e

ngin

eer

to

repa

ir, b

ut

se

nd

ba

ck

to

yo

ur

su

ppli

ers

requ

estin

g

t

hem

to

re

turn

t

o the man

ufac

ture

r ens

uring

that

you

will

recei

ve

the

ma

chin

e back in a pe

rfec

t

c

ondi

tion.

Repa

ir

of Veld

tsch

oen W

ork

For

repa

irs

the

presser foot

160

for veldtschoen work

is

set

fo

r

wi

de

we

lt.

T

hrea

d No

.

5

and

n

eedle

N

o

4

s

houl

d

be us

ed.


11/14

12

Tw

o

d

iffer

ent

w

orkin

g

me

thod

s

ma

y

be

use

d a

ccor

ding to

the

condition

o

f

the

shoe.

The firs

t wor

king m

eth

od

is

u

sed

wh

en

the

shoe

s

are

m

uch

wo

rn. T

he

ne

w

sol

e

is

cut

acc

urat

ely

to

t

he shap

e o

f

the

o

ld sole

,

t

hen

the

c

hann

ellin

g is

do

ne a

nd lastl

y the edg

e

o

f the

so

le

is

sm

eare

d

with

c

eme

ntgu

m seve

ral tim

es.

A

fter hav

ing

open

ed

the

o

ld

s

ole

a

nd

the

old we

lt to

the

wai

st,

th

e

uppe

r is

a

lso

sm

eare

d with

cem

entg

um in

side the

w

elt,

h’

wi

de. The

n

the s

ole is

fast

ened in

the

wa

ist.

W

hen the gum

me

d

pl

aces

o

f t

he

shoe and th

e

sole are

well dry

, pr

ess

fi

rmly

tog

ethe

r.

How

eve

r,

ca

re

m

ust

be

tak

en tha

t

the

edge of

the upper

does

not

overlap

the

sole,

as

the

shoe will

then

be

too na

rrow wh

en

fini

shed

.

T

he

ch

anne

l is t

hen

ope

ned and

the

lip

ben

t

ba

ckw

ards

.

Th

e

6”

w

ide

w

elt is

put in th

e o

penin

g of the

pr

esser fo

ot

a

nd

the sho

e

s

titch

ed

wi

thou

t

la

st. Afte

r

the sti

tchin

g

the up

per leath

er

mu

st

be

mo

iste

ned

w

ith

varm w

ater

and

a

suit

able

l

ast pu

t

in, so

th

at

the sh

oe

ke

eps i

ts sha

pe.

Th

e

s

econ

d

wo

rkin

g

me

thod

is

u

sed wh

en

th

e sho

es

a

re

on

ly a

li

ttle

wo

rn.

T

he ol

d sole

r

ema

ins

on

t

he shoe and

i

s

onl

y

pare

d

thi

n

a

t

the

ed

ge.

Th

e

old

w

elt

is

se

para

ted

fro

m

wa

ist to w

aist and

th

e

new

sole

is

cut accurately

to

the

siz e

and shape

of

the

old one.

The

ch

ann

ellin

g

is th

en d

one a

nd the

w sol

e

i

s

fast

ened

at

th

e

wai

st

an

d

to

e. T

he

chan

nel is open

ed

an

d the

lip

ben

t

ba

ckw

ards

. T

he

6

w

ide wel

t is

p

lace

d in the pr

esse

r

fo

ot,

the

stit

chin

g

and

fur

ther

tre

ame

nt

o

f

th

e

sho

e

is

the

n do

ne

as

des

crib

ed in

t

he

firs

t

wo

rkin

g

m

etho

d.

Sp

are

arts

Eve

ry ma

chin

e

is

pr

ovid

ed

wi

th

the

foll

owin

g

Spar

e

P

arts

free of

char

ge

Envelope

with

needles

Hand

winder

Spo

ols Re

el of

t

hrea

d No

S

crew

driv

ers

Ree

l

of

pitc

hed

th

read

N

o.

Spe

cial

scre

w-w

renc

h

Oil

c

an

In

stru

ction

Book

A

t

extr

a ch

arge

w

s

uppl

y

P

ress

er foo

t for

Veld

tsch

oen rep

airs

N

o

16

0

Stit

chin

g

plat

e

fo

r

fla

t-sew

ing rub

ber

soles

N

o

58T

h

Sti

tchin

g

plat

e w

ith gui

de

fo

r

f

lat-s

ewin

g of

belts and

similar

w

ork No

. 58 D

E


12/14

t

-

t

J

_

2

I

o

.

I

u

U

f

—

h

_

U

,

O

’

0

4

7

U

L

Q

Q

I

h


13/14

14

r

87

86

88

23

3

6

7

8

‘ T

a

38

6

1468

4

A

155

r’rvyyvy yyy

3

39

I

32

34

54’

8

I

4

•1

16 1

I

74

54

4

3

1

83

52

5

15

8


14/14

15

Part

No Table

No Part

No

Table

No

13A

88

14A

2

13A

90

13A

14B

9

13A

4

14B

92

13A

5

13A

94

13A

6 14A

95

13A

7

13A 14A

98

13B

8 14A

99

13B

9

13B 14A

101

13B

10

14A

102

13B

11

13B

105

13B

12

]3B

106

13B

13

13B

107

13B

14

13

A 13

B

108

13

B

15

13

A 13 B

109 13

B

16

14A

110

13B

17

13B 14A

115

13B

18

14B

116

13B

19

14B

118

13B

20

13B

123

13B

21 13 B

125

13

A 13

B

22

13B

127 13B

23

14A

128

14A

24

14A 130

14A

50

13A

13]

14A

52

13A

132 14A

54

14A

134

14A

56

14A

138 14A

57

13A

139

14A

58B

13A 142

14A

63

13A 145

14A

64

13A

146 14A

68

13A

146B

14A

69

13A

148

13A

70

13A

149 14B

71

13A 150

14B

74

14B

151

14B

75

14B

14B

78

14B

5

14B

79 14B

l

14B

80

14B

81 14B

157

B

83

14B

14B

86

14A

14B

87

14A 14B

4

Date post:	05-Jul-2018
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Junker & Ruh Outsole Stitcher Parts List and Manual

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