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Jennifer & Warren: African HoneymoonJune 2011
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Although visiting Africa on our Honeymoon wasimmediately on our shortlist of itineraries, we hadto juggle around some other options -- such as anaround-the-world trip, an Antarctica trek, and “pot-luck” via Four Seasons Hotel availability.
In the end, a mixture of time, cost, time-of-year (i.e.,winter in the Southern Hemisphere), and our desireto do something different and adventurous pointedus to Africa.
We haven’t regretted this decision for a singleminute.
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Forward
PHOTOGRAPHER’S NOTE
Shooting on safari is, in a word,
“Frustrating”. There are several factors
that contribute to this. For one, safari’s
tend to start at dawn and right before
dusk. While there is perfect light during
much of this time, it is often fleeting right
when you need it. Second, you will
almost always be in some sort of vehicle
that is bouncing around -- moving (and
not stopping) at the wrong times, and
very often positioning you at exactly the
wrong point or angle (with various
obstructions always being plentiful).
And, of course, most of your subjects are
moving and won’t pose.
The African Bush and Delta is, in a word,
“Amazing”. At almost every turn, I had
the most incredible picture setting in my
mind. Unfortunately, I didn’t come close
to doing them justice and captured only a
tiny fraction. Most times, I didn’t even
get those right. But the most amazing
shots are definitely out there!
Images were captured on three devices -- a Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5, a Lumix DMC-ZS10, and an
iPhone 4. Most low-light pictures were taken with the Lumix LX-5, and all zoom shots (past 3x) were
taken with the Lumix ZS10. The Lumix ZS10 is equipped with a GPS unit and allowed us to create the
map depicting where the images were captured. The iPhone 4 was used for panorama shots.
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Our ItineraryFrankfurt, Germany
: Explore the “Rheingau” valley along the Rhein River
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
: Visit one of the “Seven Wonders of the Natural World”
Chobe River, Botswana and Namibia
: Stay on the banks of the Chobe River
: Cruise the Chobe River and watch indigenous river life
: Ground safari in Chobe National Park
: Visit local Namibian Village
Okavango Delta, Botswana
: Camp in the heart of Botswana
: Morning and Evening Safaris in the Delta
: Meet semi-habituated elephants
Cape Town, South Africa
: Stay on the historic waterfront and visit top restaurants
: Tour the Winelands region and Franschhoek
: Tour post-apartheid Cape Town
: Cage dive with white sharks
: Ascend Table Mountain and hike the top
: Visit a colony of african penguins
: Visit the Cape of Good Hope
Manyeleti Reserve, Mpumalanga Province of South Africa
: Morning and Evening Safaris
: Track and hunt big game animals (with a camera)
: Watch the sunrise and sunset along the plains
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Frankfurt was actually an“accidental destination”. Whenwe were pricing out tickets, it sohappened the most inexpensive
route was through Frankfurt. I’dhoped we’d find a connectingflight through a nice tropicalresort destination, or maybethrough Dubai, but Frankfurtturned out to be the leastexpensive option.
The good news was that theticket was cheaper; the bad newswas that there was a 10-hour
layover on the way out and a 4-hour layover on the way back.
Since I had never been inGermany, we decided we’d take aguided day tour through theRheingau Valley.
Wet met with our guide, Percy,and started our journey throughthe home of Riesling wines at theKloster Eberbach monastery. Wethen went on to the wine villageof Rüdesheim (where I finally gotto enjoy some local wurst).
From Rüdesheim we hopped on acommuter boat to leisurely cruise
up the Rhein River. We passedby numerous villages which were
made up of: one street (of housesand commerce), one castleoverlooking the street, and acresof surrounding vineyards. We
later found the real reason forthese villages was for localbarons to set up taxation pointsfor boats that needed to pass.
On our return trip, we foundourselves a little delayed withonly a couple hours to spare, butwe made our way out of theairport to try and figure out thelocal metro. Our goal was to get
to the “old town” in Frankfurt andhave a quick breakfast at one of
the outdoor cafes. Although wefailed on our first attempt tonavigagte the metro (with melooking for a destination called
“Erwachsene Einzel” and Jennifertelling me I was actually reading“Adult Single Fare” off thetickets), we eventually hit thestreet and found a taxi.
On the way back to the airport,almost out of Euros, we had nochoice but to try the metro again.This time we were successful!
Frankfurt
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The encompassing community around the Kloster Eberbach monastery
The three tombstones depicted here (as well as the many throughout the monastery) are still marking bodies buried below
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Cruising the Rhein River from Rüdesheim to St. Goarshausen5
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Upper-Left Photo: The mythical Loreleyfelsen. Before motors, so many boats ran aground here due to high winds and strong currents that shipmen began making up stories of a vengeful enchantress whose beauty and song made men powerless, and then bewitched them into crashing. Sounded plausible to me.6
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Images from the Kloster Eberbach Monastery. The winemaking is still active, but the 11th century equipment was just for show.Upper Photo: The monastery’s (long defunct) dormitory 7
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Yes, the hot dog was invented in Frankfurt (hence “frankfurter”), and their wurst is the best. But the Germans also give the French some strong competition in baking a damn fine croissant. Also, at seven in the morning the cafes and bakery stands were putting out their fresh pretzels. We never saw that in France!8
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We stayed in some completelyunique settings. We went fromdrinking purified river water andhaving no electricity at times to
huddling with hot water bottleswhile raging winds blew throughour pitch dark cabin at night. Wealso lounged on our terraceoverlooking a marina while beingoverlooked by a famous flat-topped mountain, and had hightea while one of the SevenNatural Wonders of the Worldthundered in the distance andcreated an amazing naturalspectacle.
We slept in the middle of natureon an untamed river, wewitnessed dawn overtake the
African Bush many hours from
any other civilized outpost, andwe met the sunset watchingnocturnal animals emerge whiletoasting with gin and tonics(more accurately, Jennifer had redwine).
We experienced so many aweinspiring moments and wereconstantly impressed by how ouraccommodations were able toprovide so much with so little.
Before we left home, Jennifer saidshe would feel guilty having apool in a place where people feltthe effects of intense drought.
To our surprise, we found “green”lodges and camps that purifiedwater from the rivers, streams,and natural wells. Unfortunately,even though the high andabundant waters used made usfeel less guilty, it was still a bittoo cold to jump in.
Something else that surprised uswas the modern technology.Even in our most remote
accommodations, we always hadaccess to an Internet connection.
Apparently, we were never too faraway to get a weak satellite
signal.
We were also very appreciative toall our hosts as everywhere wewent, we received a surprisehoneymoon experience. We weretouched by the sheer amount ofeffort that was put into some ofour surprises. At one stop, wereceived a new gift every night.“Free” booze was never in shortsupply either.
Lodges, Camps, Hotels, and Houseboat
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Victoria Falls Hotel
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In 1904, a bridge was constructed to link Zambia with Zimbabwe, and an Edwardian-style hotel was built to overlook the bridge and the Victoria Falls. This hotel was aptly dubbed the Victoria Falls Hotel. It offers the quintessential British-African experience and was the gateway to our African adventure. 11
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Jennifer admiring the carcasses of animals we would likely soon be seeing.
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The falls were a 15-minute walk from the hotel and the gorge (Lower-Left Photo) was a 5-minute walk. Zimbabwe was the poorest country we visited (with a GDP per capita of about $461 per year). Their Prime Minister Mugabe, was actual ly voted out of office in the last election, but he chose to stay. He caused hyper-inflation by printing un-backed currency (they had a $100 trillion dollar bill). Lack of any industry ensured we were always accompanied by friendly locals hoping to sell their handicrafts or receive a tip. We were out of cash early.
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High Tea on the Terrace at the Victoria Falls Hotel
This picture is shot from Zimbabwe -- across the rainbow bridge is Zambia
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Zambezi Queen
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Although we weren’t able to walk around much on board, and mosquitos ruled the night, one of our most extraordinary experiences was going to bed while listening to river life along the Chobe River through our screen doors. We heard a symphony of frogs, crickets, hippos, buffalos, and many things unidentified. 17
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We were treated to a dinner on the banks of the Chobe River (in the middle of nowhere), complete with buffet meal, sizzling plates, and entertainment. Wewondered how they did it since there was no electricity. The local people appeared out of the darkness into the fire light and irradiated their own genuine warmth. 19
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Sanctuary Baines Camp
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After our 1.5 hour light-aircraft flight landed on a dirt clearing in the middle of the bush, we were taken to a swamp boat for a 1.5 hour ride
through the delta on the way to the camp. Without any wind, the tranquil water mirrored the sky overhead like a giant sheet of glass23
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Right-Upper Photo: By night we were not allowed to traverse the wooden walkways alone, but by day we felt like we were in a treehouse.Left-Lower Photo: The mosquito net around the bed would have allowed us to sleep outside under the stars, but it was too damn cold.Right-Lower Photo: The plunge pool was like an oasis of luxury in the remote delta...but was also too cold.
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Jennifer with our guide, July, preparing for our sundowner cocktails in the bush. July was surprisingly knowledgable not only about the wildlife and
fauna, but also about everything from Botswana economics to Southern Africa politics26
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Right-Upper Photo: Driving throught the delta sometimes in 4.5 feet of water. The bed would flood and we’d have to hold our legs up until it emptied
Left-Lower Photo: Jennifer lounging by the warm fire preparing for evening cocktails and conversation with other guests before dinner 27
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Cape Grace
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Upper-Left Photo: Whiskey tasting -- Jennifer impressed our whiskey expert with her observations and keen sense of taste (no joke!); Lower-Left Photo: CapeTown’s version of the London Eye; Right-Photo: Wine tasting at Delheim (one of several wine tastings that we happened into) 33
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Upper-Left Photo: Alfred & Victoria (“A&V”) Waterfront with Coca Cola Man sitting in front of table mountainMiddle-Left Photo: South Africa’s four nobel peace prize winners; Right-Photo: Jennifer imitating Coca Cola Man 35
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Tintswalo Lodge
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Excursions
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Namibian
Village
On one morning, we were able
to visit a local Namibian Village.
It was truly an eye-opening
experience. We were invited to
see all aspects of the town from
the fire where they cooked their
fish to the slab of stone that
covered their bath water hole.The village was sparse, but the
people were among the most
hospitable and inviting that we’d
ever met. Our donations may
have been one factor.
And of course, in the end the
town came out to dance and
Jennifer was in the thick of
things. All the women took a
shine to Jennifer and It
reinforced my notion that
Jennifer was at the time, the
most beloved Korean person in
Southern Africa.
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Jennifer’s favorite baobab tree at the entrance to the village44
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The kids were unsupervised while playing with dirt and the occasional cool looking rock, yet were the most well behaved we’d ever seen. The mature actions and reactions of these kids would put most of America’s youth to shame (I feel so old for thinking that...but it’s true!). 45
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Cape Town
Winelands
We spent a day exploring the
Winelands region in the Boland
mountains of Cape Town. We
visited the Delheim winery, took a
tour of their facilities, and sat down
to sample some of their finest
batches. We bought a bottle of their
most expensive red wine (Jennifer
chose it) and paid about $30 for it.
Good wine was cheap in Cape
Town.
The highlight of our day was a stop
in Franschhoek where we
overlooked a vast fertile valley and
had lunch at a small farm restaurant
aptly named “La Petite Ferme”. Thefood was delicious and the view was
among the most picturesque and
peaceful we’d ever seen.
We also took some time to walk
through the village and visited an
artist corner where we bought a
local painting made of silverleaf.
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Victoria Falls -- the worlds largest falls as measured in a combination of height and width. The falls has over 2,000,000 sqaure feet of surface area, making it the largest “sheet” of water on Earth. 51
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Cape Point
Touring through the NoordhoekValley to Cape Peninsula allowed
us to see the natural side of Cape
Town. Not only did we visit the
Cape of Good Hope (the
Southwest-most point of Africa we
all learned about in school), but we
also saw the most amazing ocean
and geologic scenery of our trip.
We started on Table Mountain
where we were able to get a vantage
point over all we’d see that day. We
could have hiked up and around the
park all day, but we were on a tight
schedule.
Our scenic drive took us past someawe-inspiring vistas, beaches, and
mountain passes. We went by our
departure point for Seal Island (and
our Great White Shark encounter)
and past the home of African
Penguins. It was nice to see some
animals that couldn’t easily kill us.
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On top of Table Mountain, overlooking Cape Town to Cape Point
<-- That’s Jennifer perched over Cape Town in her safari hat
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The southern tip of the Cape of Good Hope -- it doesn’t get much lower than this in Africa!55
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One of the most interesting partsof our journey was the journeyitself. We flew in several lightaircraft including one where wesat in the only two passenger
seats. On light aircraft we flewfrom as low as a few hundred feetoff the ground to about 7,000feet. We found out the hard waywhere the bumpy air was.
In the beginning of each flight, wewould be nervous with eachsudden movement and drop theplane would make, but at the endwe would be grooving in synch
with the wind induced
turbulence. It wasn’t too bad.The dirt runways in the middle ofthe bush made for some verysurprisingly soft landings.
Because we were taking suchsmall aircraft, we were forced tocarry only a small duffle bag each.While this made us dress aboutthe same every day, it also madeus take advantage of our camps’laundry service -- which wouldwash, iron, fold, and wrap ourgarments with a bow.
On our first light aircraft flight, we
were late to the airport. A little
guy in a vest ran over to us in theparking lot as if he knew us. Hetold us we were late and hegrabbed our bags. He helped usthrough “security” and then took
our bags right to the plane. Toour surprise, he then loaded ourbags, opened the door for us(inviting me to sit up front), andthen jumped in the pilot’s seat.Fortunately it turned out that ourpilot, Ziggy, knew what he wasdoing.
If I’d had my way, not only wouldwe have flown in one of the
world’s smallest light aircraft, but
we would also have flown in theworld’s largest commercialaircraft. We were supposed totake an Airbus A380 (a two levelplane holding 521 passengers,
with a bar area on the upperdeck), but unfortunately, as soonas I stepped on board (afterexcitedly snapping somepictures of the loading area), Iimmediately realized that we werenot on an A380. There had beenan equipment change. Too bad--for Jennifer-- she had to listento me complain for the nextseveral hours.
Planes, Airports, and Immigration
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Upper Photo: Jennifer fresh off the plane and ready for safari Lower-Middle Photo: Some of our points of immigration were shacks along the river 63
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Johannesburg Airport. Jennifer is greeted by modern South Africa’s first
President and 1993 Nobel Peace Prize recipient
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The phrase “Big-5 Game”
originated as a hunting term.
Foreign hunters would use the
phrase to describe the five mostdangerous animals to hunt. These
animals were therefore among the
most prized to encounter (and
shoot).
Today, the phrase is freely used
by tourists on safari and the
animals on the list are the
benchmark to measure a
successful outing. The concept is
the same, but of course, the
shooting is done with a camera.
The “Big-5” consist of AfricanElephants, Cape Buffalo, leopard,
lion, and rhinoceros.
Did we see all the “Big-5”?
We sure did! Although it took until
our very last safari to get a good
look at some lions and rhinoceros.
We’d caught some quick, hazy
evening and nighttime glimpses,
but it wasn’t until the morning we
were leaving when we got to go on
a safari where it was just the two of
us with the guides. Because therewere no other guests, we were
able to spend the time doing one
of the most extraordinary activities
of our trip -- tracking lions. We
heard some lions through the night
and then followed fresh paw prints
in and around the bush. Many
times, it looked like we might have
lost them in the heavier brush. In
the end, it took us a couple hours
to finally find them...but it was so
worth it!
In these shots, we share some of our experiences; where we were
literally surrounded at times, where
we were able to happen upon a
lone leopard hopelessly trying to
stalk buffalo, and where we met a
trio of semi-habituated elephants
that lived in the wild, but let us up
real close.
The “Big-5”
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Five tons of African Elephant 66
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Clockwise: Cape Buffalo, Leopard, White Rhino, Sleepy Lion67
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Spending the morning tracking a pride of lions . . .. . . and finding them!68
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A pride of lion tracked and found. The spotter sitting on the seat on the hood appararently is a man without fear. The driver tried to make us feel better
by telling us that in the event of an attack, the spotter will be eaten first, giving us time to run... 69
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We meandered into a herd of Cape Buffalos -- with
no real desire or inclination to move for us.
Our guide called this couple
“honeymooning buffalo”
This guy gave us a look that said “step out of the
vehicle and then we’ll see how tough you are” 72
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Although buffalo are some of the toughest land animals on the planet, lone bulls are still vulnerable. The buffalo in the left-middle photo survived a lion attack, but lost a horn -- sadly, his days are numbered. The buffalo in the left-upper photo was not so lucky. 73
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Semi-habituated African Bush Elephants, “Jabu”, “Thembi”, and “Morula” gave us a very up-close encounter with the largest land animal on Earth
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An elephant’s teeth look like large Fig Newtons. Typically, an African Bush Elephant lives into it’s 60’s -- where a common cause of death is starvation after theelephant loses its teeth. These guys let us hold and handle their trunks...they felt and sounded like very big, empty, heavy, rough garden hoses. 75
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Jabu and Morula each have a vocabulary of over seventy words. They are highly intelligent and can follow even a soft-spoken command. Of course, they were still driven by eating and mating --and knew no one could make them do anything they didn’t want-- but they seemed to enjoy messing around with us.76
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Upper-Left and Upper-Right Photos: Morula demonstrated how an elephant lies down to sleep. Amusingly, even while pretending to sleep, she wasconstantly eating everything her trunk could find. An African Bush Elephant eats between 300-500 pounds of foliage every day. 79
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Upper Photo: White Rhino about to use his exclusive bathroomLower-Left Photo: Leopard dreaming about hunting one of the hundred buffalo around him; Lower-Right Photo: Sleepy Lion tired from hunting all night 80
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In the African bush, nothing goes
to waste. In the “Circle of Life”,when an animal is killed by apredator, everything is consumedin order. For example, when a liontakes down a kill, they will eatfirst. Then hyena will descendand eat the bones. Vultures and
jackals will follow the hyena andpick at whatever they can still find.Finally, beetles and other insectswill finish off any last traces.
When an elephant eats a tree, it
will consume the fruit or any othervessel that contains the tree’sseed. As the elephant roams andmigrates, they disperse the seedsas their digestion completes (i.e.,when they drop their loads). Infact, the elephant’s digestiveprocess can even enhance thecapacity of some seeds togerminate. This strengthens thelineage of the tree.
Even though a day in the life of
most animals revolves aroundeating, sleeping, mating, andtrying not to die, we saw manyparallels to humans. Everythingfrom juvenile behavior tocompeting for females todefending one’s territory mirrorsus. We realized that animals andhumans have the same basicneeds, wants, and relativereactions to getting (or not
getting) them.
The point being that on safari, wewere witness to an ancient, vastecosystem. We found it veryhumbling to be in the face of afunctional, natural ecosystem thatgave us such an accurate windowinto ourselves.
Oh, and we also saw a lot of coolstuff too...
Critters and Landscape on Safari
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Dawn in the Mpumalanga bush82
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Those aren’t stones in the water...it’s a pod of hippos83
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Clockwise: Monitor Lizard, Giraffe, Impala with Vulture pal, Warthog84
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Jennifer’s favorite animal was the giraffe. She says they look “regal” when they walk.Lower-Right Photo: Suckling baby giraffe86
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Upper Photo: Spider webs in the delta. It seems that spiders are even more prolific in Africa...there is always a new web to pull off yourself...but more spiders mean fewer mosquitos. (It’s a fair trade). Lower-Middle Photo: Herd of Blue Wildebeest 88
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Lower-Left Photo: Yellow Billed Horn Bill Bird silhouette; Lower-Middle Photo: African Fish Eagle; Lower-Right Photo: Vulture89
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We ventured out to the famous Seal Island where 60,000 seals stink up the place while being pursued by great white sharks. We had some encounters withwhite sharks, but the weather wasn’t ideal and the seas were choppy. We got some good visuals, but without an underwater camera, no good shots.
Upper-Left Photo: Ripped decoy when the shark bit it; Upper-RIght Photo: View of Seal Island through shark diving cage91
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Upper-Left Photo: Biggest croc we saw (more than 4m long); Upper-Right Photo: A shamed hippo (one that just lost a fight and had to flee) -- this poor guy looked so ashamed he wouldn’t even look at us; Lower-Right Photo: A curious kudu92
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Upper Photo: A large herd of elephants drinking and bathingLower-Left Photo: Hyena sneering at us; Lower-Middle Photo: View from our Mokoro (traditional wooden fishing canoe); Lower-Right Photo: Male warthog94
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Lower-Left Photo: Female ostrich; Lower-Right Photo: Male ostrich95
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The Hippo in the Lower Photos is named “Stinky” by our safari guides. He is about 40-years old (Hippos generally live between 40 and 50 years), and wasunable to amble away from us too quickly, giving us some oppotunities for some nice photos.96
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Upper-Left Photo: Violet Breasted Roller Bird; Upper-Right Photo: Two female vulturesLower-Left Photo: A pair of male vultures and a pair of female vultures; Lower-Right Photo: A male vulture and a female vulture about to take flight 97
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1. Bird filled tree; 2. Jackal; 3. View from our deck at Baines Camp4. Cheetah; 5. Anteater or Hyena hole (active); 6. Caracal Cat
7. Bird nests; 8. Yellow Billed Horn Bill Bird; 9. Pair of bird silhouettes98
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Jennifer was beloved by so many local villages and groups, possibly because she jumped in and started dancing at every chance she got. These imagesdepict Jennifer dancing with African dancers in Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Namibia. 99
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Our trip lasted 15-days, which is about half the lunar cycle. We started our journey with a waning crescent moon, hit the new moon (which means puredarkness and starlit sky), and eventually ended our journey with a full moon and a brightly lit nighttime sky. The sunsets weren’t bad either.100
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© 2011 Photography by Warren Sheng
Our first artwork. Purchased in Franshhoek, it is apost-modern piece painted on silverleaf over canvas
Artist . Marie-Louise de Villiers Hamman