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 · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined...

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1 .~\ lj .!,' , !i l ',1 ili~' Il,\ ; r, ,! , , ri " li 'ii' !i'! ; fi 'rfl Shalamar Garden * j:~[ Master Plan tr c t ~ , m cm ;~!~ ~~ ; i! i" ? : ~!I " " which nature and man have combined to make it so lovely and where history and legend have woven so much ro- mance. Shalamar Garden is located in Baghbanpura along G. T. Road, some .three and half miles North east of the main city. The garden was laid at the command of Emperor Shah Jahan (1627-1658A. C.)on 3rdRabi-ul-Awal 1051 A.H. (1641 A.C.). It was com- pleted in seventeen months four days on the 7thSha'ban 1052 A. H.(1642 A. C.) at a cost of 6 lakhs (six hundred thousand) Rupees.The project was completed under the superintendence of Kharnullah Khan, a noble of Shah Jahan's Court, in cooperation with Ali Mardan Khan and Mulla Ala ul-Mulk Tuni. Shalarnar is variously written and pronounced and interpreted in many ways. The most plausible interpreta- tion seems to be that shalarnar is com- posed oftwo words 'shall' and mar'. ln Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're- spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the site of the first Shalimar in Srinagar did possesssuch a soil. The popular narne 'Shalamar' is a corruption of the origi- nal 'Shalimar'. The officiaI nameof the gardens was Bagh-Farah Bakhsh and 1. Introduction WaIled gardens with raised walk ways (khayaban), open fronted sum- mer pavilions (baradaris), canaIs with running water, large tanks with fountains are an important feature of MughaI architecture. Emperor Babur, the founder of the MughaI dynasty , is known to have laid out a nurnber of charrnlng gardens at Kabul, Agra and other places. Akbar and Jahangir aIso enjoyed gardens and made them an integral part of their palaces. Shah Jahan, the architect-king of the MughaI dynasty, introduced the features ofter- races, cascades and a Turkish Bath (Hammam) in the gardens.The nobles and grandeesof the court followed the examples set by the emperor and aIl important cities of the empire possessed a nurnber of charrning gardens. Lahore, the Darus Saltanat of the MughaIst had a large nurnber of fine gardensand was known as a city of gardens. Shalamar garden, the Versailles of Pakistan, is the embodiment of the MughaI conception of a perfect garden and represents their land-scape archi- tecture at its best. The deliciously cool and pleasant atmosphereof the garden, caIrn waters of its tanks and canaIs, jet ting fountains, rippling and singing cascades, swinging cypresses and long shady waIk ways have endeared the hearts of many a spirited soul. Perhaps there is no other garden in the world in 204 (f l 'ôi ,~;, ?~~~ ~
Transcript
Page 1:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

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which nature and man have combinedto make it so lovely and where historyand legend have woven so much ro-mance.

Shalamar Garden is located inBaghbanpura along G. T. Road, some

.three and half miles North east of themain city. The garden was laid at thecommand of Emperor Shah Jahan(1627-1658A. C.)on 3rdRabi-ul-Awal1051 A.H. (1641 A.C.). It was com-pleted in seventeen months four dayson the 7thSha'ban 1052 A. H.(1642 A.C.) at a cost of 6 lakhs (six hundredthousand) Rupees. The project wascompleted under the superintendenceof Kharnullah Khan, a noble of ShahJahan's Court, in cooperation with AliMardan Khan and Mulla Ala ul-MulkTuni.

Shalarnar is variously written andpronounced and interpreted in manyways. The most plausible interpreta-tion seems to be that shalarnar is com-posed oftwo words 'shall' and mar'. lnKashmiri language these words mean'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'blackloarny soil for paddy' and indeed thesite of the first Shalimar in Srinagar didpossess such a soil. The popular narne'Shalamar' is a corruption of the origi-nal 'Shalimar'. The officiaI nameof thegardens was Bagh-Farah Bakhsh and

1. IntroductionWaIled gardens with raised walk

ways (khayaban), open fronted sum-mer pavilions (baradaris), canaIs withrunning water, large tanks withfountains are an important feature ofMughaI architecture. Emperor Babur,the founder of the MughaI dynasty , isknown to have laid out a nurnber ofcharrnlng gardens at Kabul, Agra andother places. Akbar and Jahangir aIsoenjoyed gardens and made them anintegral part of their palaces. ShahJahan, the architect-king of the MughaIdynasty, introduced the features ofter-races, cascades and a Turkish Bath(Hammam) in the gardens. The noblesand grandees of the court followed theexamples set by the emperor and aIlimportant cities of the empire possesseda nurnber of charrning gardens. Lahore,the Darus Saltanat of the MughaIst hada large nurnber of fine gardens and wasknown as a city of gardens.

Shalamar garden, the Versailles ofPakistan, is the embodiment of theMughaI conception of a perfect gardenand represents their land-scape archi-tecture at its best. The deliciously cooland pleasant atmosphere of the garden,caIrn waters of its tanks and canaIs,jet ting fountains, rippling and singingcascades, swinging cypresses and longshady waIk ways have endeared thehearts of many a spirited soul. Perhapsthere is no other garden in the world in

204

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Page 2:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Shalamar I~n -Prescrvation ~ Res~tion

and winter seasons including mango,

cherry, apricot, peach, plum, gokchasultani (Rae Jaman), apple, almond,quince, seedless mulberry , sour andsweet oranges etc., saplings of cypress,poplar and varieties of odoriferous andnon-ordoriferous plants and shrubs.2. Buildings of the Garden2.1 The Highest Terracea)Aram Gah

The highest terrace contains the royalresidential buildings. The building inthe middle of the southern side is theAram Gah (resting place of the em-peror.). It has a marble dado and itslarge middleroom contains acup shapedmarble cistern with a jet ting fountain.On its sides are two chambers. Thefront is occupied by an aiwan with threearched openings on the northern sideand one each on the east and the west.As a result of the change in the align-ment of the Grand Trunk Road theAram Gah was converted into a mainentrance by Major Macgregor, DeputyComrnissioner, Lahore circa 1850 A.D .b) Naqqar Khana

The building in the centre of theeastern side is now known as NaqqarKhana, a place of drums or fanfare.Originally it was the Jharoka-e-DaulatKhana-e-Khas-o-Am or the Balcony ofthe Hall of Private and Public Audi-ence. It has its own separate enclosurewhich stilI e~ists but in a ruinous condi-tion with a pavilion or baradari in itscentre which in aIl probability served asArz Bagi, the office of the Minister ofthe Court.c) Begum Ki Khwabgah

The building in the middle of thewest side is the Khwabgah, sleepingchambers of the Empress. The presentceiling of this building is of the Sikhperiod of about 1838 A. C. During theearly British period this building was

Faix Bakhsh. Farah Bakhsh whichmeans 'pleasure giving' was applied tothe highest terrace and 'Faiz Bakhsh'corresponding to 'bountiful' was usedfor the middle and the lowest terraces

together.Shalamar Garden, enclosed by a high

perimeter wall bas been laid out in threedescending terraces from south to north.The garden measures 2006 feet north tosouth and 874 feet east to west, someforty acres in area. The highest and thelowest terraces measuring 874' x 874'each are di vided into four equal parts bythe cross canaIs and raised brick pave-ments laid along 'both banks of thecanals. There is a tank at the crossing ofthe canals. The middle terrace measur-ing 874' x 254" is 4' -6" higherthantheside ones. The central part is mainlyoccupied by the great tanks and fourpavilions. The side anes measure 296' x254' and are utilised for grassy plots,cypresses, pucca flower beds and smallcistems.

Irrigation -Shah N~lharTo irrigate the garden a canal named

Shah Nahar (Royal Canal) later alsoknown as 'Hansh Canal' was broughtfrom Rajpur (present Madhupur, inIndia),a distance of over a hundredmiles. It was planned by Ali MardanKhan, the weIl known Canal Engineerof Shah Jahan, and completed by MullaAla ul Mulk Tuni, an expert in hydrol-ogy .The total cost incurred came torupees two lakhs. Besides the canal,two large wells, one on the west and theother on the south of the highest terrace,were used for supplying water to thefountain. The weIl on the west is knownas Bara Hat ta.Plantation

On the 24th Jamadal Ula A. H. 1051(1641 A.C.) was commenced the plan-tation of the fruit trees of the summer

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Page 3:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

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used as a Rest House for the localpopulation. It is now in a dilapidatedcondition. The western part of theKhawabgah bas disappeared and amodern water reservoir bas been builtover its remains.d) The Aiwan

The arcaded building in the middleof the northern side of the tenace over~looking the great marble cascade andthe two lower tenaces, is the Aiwan orthe Grand Hall. It bas three cuspedarched openings in its long side andtwo each in the other sides. It bas mar~ble dado and originally its walls weredecorated with panelling and Naqqashi(Fresco work). Its present ceiling datesback to the Sikh period of about 1838A. C. This hall was used as a receptionplace during the Royal ceremonies andfunctions and is still used for state func~tions. According to KanahyaLal, RanjitSingh removed its marble slabs includ-ing the marble screens (Jali), sent themto the Golden Temple at (Amritsar) andlater white washed the surface thus

exposed.2.2 The middle tenacea) The Royal Bath

In the south-east corner of the mid-dle terace is located a Hammam orRoyal Turkish Bath. In fact it lies alongthe eastern side of the Middle Terraceand is composed of four chamber, RakhtKhana (dressing room), Sard Khana(cold room), Ab-e-Rawan (runningwater portion), and Khana (hot room),Originally the interior of the bath wasdecorated with Parchin Kari (Pietra durawork). The three Sikh rulers of Lahorewhoruledfrom 1764to 1799 A.C. andRanjit Singh deprived this building ofaIl. its Parchin Kari and other decora-tions and ultimately replaced the samecirca 1838 A.C. with the present limeplasterdecomted with paintings in Sleco(painting on dry plaster).According to

206

another version the repairs were carriedout by Maharaja Sher Singh.b) Great Tank

The central part of the middle Ter-race contains a big tank measuring218'x191' with some152 fountains. lnthe middle of the southern side of thistank and just opposite the great cascade(19'-8"x14'-6") stands the marblethrone(8'-10"x6'-2"x3'-8"). On the eastern andwestern sides of this tank are locatedtwo pavilions now mostly lime plas-tered. Accordingto MullaAbdulHamidLahori, these pavilions were originallybuilt in red sandstone which were re-moved during the Sikh period. The pa-vilion on the east measures 32'-2 "x 19' x 16' (height)and thatin the west33'..6"x19'-8" x 16' (height.)

ln the center of the tank, there is anisland in the form of a raised platformapproached by red sandstone cause-ways from east and west. This islandwas used for sitting on moon lit nightsand for this reason was called, Mahtabi.It was orlginally in marble with grilledrailing which, like other marble works,was robbed by the Sikh rulers.c) Sawan, Bhadun and Chini Khana

On the northern side of this tankstand two pavilions known as Sawanand Bhaduneach measuring 21'-6"x13'-5"x14'-6". They are named after thetwo rainy months of the Pakistani cal-endar. They were originally built inwhite marble which was removed by

Maharaja Ranjit Singh.The 'Chini- Khana ' , in fact is a three

sided water-fall (abshar) measuring

26'-7"x21'-3"and9'-3"deep. Thefourthside is open. ln the walls of its threesides are provided small niches inmarble in which flower vases wereplaced in the day time and camphoredwax candles in the riight. By a specialdevice water is made to fall in a sheet '

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Page 4:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Shalamar Garden -Preservation and Restoration

only historically but also for the vitalityit imparts to the monument. The widthand layout of surrounding thorough-fares, the arrangement and form of the

neighbouring buildings, the nature of

thevegetation-allcontributetothegen-eral effect and have therefore to betaken into account both in restoring and

conserving monuments.A good idea of the original grandeur

of Shalamar may be formed by the factthat it was originally situated in themidst ofthriving and luxuriantgardens,the property of the court nobility. Tothe south across the G.T. Road wasInayat Bagh and further south of it wasAnguri Bagh. To the north was MahtabiBagh and a little away to the west wasthe Gulabi Bagh. A garden known asBagh-e-Dara or garden of Prince DaraShiko, is also said to have existed to theeast of Shalamar .It is also recorded bythe chronicles that Khwaspura a splen-di.d quarter with palaces of the royalladies, also existed in the vicinity. Withthe growth of population inBaghbanpura and the modern rush tothe cities, many of these gardens haveeither completely disappeared or onlytheir traces exist. The surroundings andthe environment of Shalamar is thusseriously threatened and immediatenecessary measures to avert the im-pending dangers have to be adopted.The present condition of the surround-ings can briefly be narrated here:-

On the south of the garden now passesthe G. T. Road leading to Wagha borderpost. Across the G. T. Road was AnguriBagh which now has altogether disap-peared except a part of its western en-closure wall. Along the enclosure wallof the garden on this side, thereis a widekacha foot-path. This belongs to the

Highway Department. This footpath isbeing encroached upon nowadays and

,., 207

over the walls containing the niches. lnthe night the lamps in the niches makean endless chain of light and colouredreflections on the water sheet falling onthe opposite walls and therefore, it isalso called Dip Mala i.e. a chain of

lights.2.3 The lowest terracea) Daulat Khana-e-Khas

ln the middle of the northem wall ofthe lowest terrace is a three archedpavilion measuring 66'-81' in lengthand 21'-9" in height with its modemroof. This was the Daulat Khan-e-Khas(Hall of Private Audience) of the Em-peror. Its dado was in marble and itswalls were originally embeIlished withNaqqashi (Frescoes). ln the centre wasa marble cistern containing a fountain.Most probably there was a red sand-stone chajja (eaves) below ilS parapetas in Aiwan in the first terrace. AlI thesedecorations are now missing and wereprobably robbed during the Sikh pe-riod.d) The Gateways

ln the center of the west and sides,are located the original main gateways.These gatesways are high enough toadmit a person riding an elephant. Thegateways are embeIlished with tilemosaic work. It is the only place whereenameIled tiles have been used in thismonument.

Besides the above mentioned build-ings there are six burjs, (Ghau Khandi)having a diameterof 16'-4". The burj ortowers occupy all the corners of theHighest Terrace and the northwest andnorth-east corners of the Lpwest Ter-race. These burjs were most probablyused by the guards when the emperorcamped in the garden.3. The surroundings

The set ting of a monument whethernatural or man made is important not

Page 5:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

oathis side. The Naqqar Khana is nowin possession of Mian Arif Iftikhar andothers and since they are not interestedin its proper maintenance, the entireenclosure wall except for small por-tions has collapsed and the entrancegate of this court js hanging precari-ously. The buildings in this court havealso deteriorated and are in a very di-lapidated condition. An open frontedpavilion in the court which served asArz Begi now presents a desolate look.The base ofits walls has been eaten upby saltpetre and the floor has com-pletely disappeared. The plaster is alsocrumbling fast.

On the south of the Naqqar Khanaenclosure is an open area whichwas thecamping ground for the royal army.This area is is still a camping ground ofthe Pakistan Army andunder its con..,trol.4. Measures for Preservation an~Restoration

The monuments and sites which arethe memorial ofhuman activities in th~past enhances the background to everyday life and provide a sense of contiriu-ity with the past. They constitute anessential part of man's heritage and asource of enrichment and harmoniousdevelopment for the civilisation of to-day and tomorrow. The monuments aremoreover a major factor in the eco-nomic and touristic development ofnations. Today alI civilised opinion isagreed that aIl outstanding monumentsand archaeologocal sites in the worldarethelegacy for the entirehumanraceand the countries possessing them areno more than being merely their trus-tees. They are thus responsible for theirproper preservation to the comity ofnations. The preservation of the monu-ments implies a rough conservationand where necessary , proper restora-

already some khokas on its westernlength have been constructed. If this isnot checked, it is feared this wholelength will be covere~ by shabby shopscovering the view of the southem en-closure wall of the garden. On the westside originally passed the old G. T .Road. Now there is a nursery , the play-ground of the Govemment Intermedi-ate College, Baghbanpura and itspremises as weIl as the Qverhead tankrecently built by Lahore Municipal

Corporation.North side

Originally there was a Royal FruitGarden known as Mahtabi Bagh. Thearea is now owned by Mian Ariflftikharand till recently it was a fruit gardenhaving plants of mango, peaches, plumand other fruits but now it is beingparcelled out into small plots for build-ing purposes under the name ofMadinaColony .If; this is not checked the entireprivacy and charm of the garden will belost and the luxuriant lush green viewnow enjoyed by the visitors inthe Aiwanwill be impaired by the view of new

highrise buildings.It was through Mahtabi Bagh by way

of a small channel that the surplus waterof the canal from the lowest terracepassed to a pucca disposaI tank Iyingbeyond and north of the Mahtabi Bagh.This tank has lately been filled up.East side

On this side some modern buildingshave already sprung up. One is locatedjust opposite the grand Entrance Gateand its occupants keep the exterior ofthe gate in a filthy condition as theircattle are stabled there, Now peoplehave started building their huts againstthe exterior of the wall and they alsoscale the enclosure wall. The NaqqarKhana court which originally formedthe integral part of the Garden also lies

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Page 6:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

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Shalamar Garden -PreseIValion and ResloralÏon

tion of monument... The conservationof ancient monuments is however, anintricate process completely differentin form and spirit from the repairs ofnew buildings. The primary object ofconservation is to preserve the originalcharacter and components of a monu-ment as far as possible so that the au-thenticity of the monument is not im-paired. The restoration, where neces-sary should be carried out in accord-ance with the techniques and materialsused by the original builders. To pre-serve the scale of the monument it isalso essential to preserve its environ-ment and surroundings as far as possi-ble.

Shalamar Garden is one of the mostcharming gardens of the world and theonly example of a perfect Mughal gar-den in Pakistan Its magnificent build-ings rippling and singing cascades, jet-ting fountains and canals with runningwater have suffered the ravages of timeand human vandalism. To the Sikhsgoes both discredit and credit for the,destruction as weIl as the preservationof the Shalamar. The monument suf-fered most at their hands from 1767 to1800 A.C. It was deprived of all itsmarble and other decorations either toprovide monetary gains or to decoratetheir religious or secular buildings. lnfact at the beginningofRanjit Singh's

rule(1799to 1839A.C,)thecanalsandtanks of the garden were filled up andthewholearea wascultivated. ButwhenRanjit Singh established himself andgained wealth and power he felt theneed for preserving the Shalamar Gar-dens. He restored the water supply,stopped ploughing inside, lime plas-tered the denuded structures and re-stored the garden. Sher Singh also car-ried out thorough repairs to the royalbath. But for their belated patronage

Shalamar might have disappeared likeits proto type at Delhi. The condition ofthe garden did not improve under Brit-ish rule and parts of its buildings wereused as rest bouses for the Europeansand the local population.

Ever since the Shalamar was handedover to the Department of Archaeologyevery effort bas been made to preserveits buildings, restore the garden to itsoriginallay out and recreate the origi-nal Mughal surroundings and atmos-phere. Unfortunately the pressing needsof preservation and restoration of thegarden have never been able to arousesufficient interest in the people of La-hore or the Govemment to provide ad-equate funds for the same. The condi-tion bas therefore not improved to theentire satisfaction of the Department. Itis true that some of the geometric pave-ments of the khyaban walkways havebeen restored, water connections of thefountains relaid and necessary pettyrepairs to the enclosure waIls carriedout, but much remains to be done.

ln the Master plan an attempt basbeen made to focus attention on themajor works of conservation and resto-ration necessary for its proper preser-vation. The detailed measures adoptedrequire a chapter for each item but theyare narrated briefly below:-4.1 The highest terraceThe Aramgah Khana

The building in the centre of thesouthern side was originally theAramgah. As described earlier MajorMacgregor, the then Deputy Commis-sioner of Lahore converted this build-ing into the Entrance about 1850 A. D.by making an opening in the centre ofits back wall. Originally the flooroftheAramgah in the portico as weIl as in theside rooms was in marble instead of thepresent red sandstone flooring and lime

v 209

Page 7:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

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terracing. The red sandstone looks in-congruous with the marble dado andthe floor will therefore be relaid inmarble in the original design. The mar-ble flooring will have a border markedwith a black lining. The modern R. S.joistand battenedroof of the side roomswill be raplaced with R. C. C. slabs andthe lower surface given a curvilinearform and finished with Ghalib Karisimilar to the one in the western room.The present clumsy doors and windowsof the Sikh period will be replaced withMughal type battened and braced doorsand windows with typical brass fit-tings. The walls of the siderooms wereoriginally decorated with delicateMunabbat-Kari (stucco tracery work)and ample traces of the same still exist.The original will be preserved and thefeature restored over the entire surfaceof the wall. ln the portico or ver~mdah,originally, there was a sprinkling offloral fresco work beside the existingloti form designs in relief. After exam-ining its nature and extent the same willalso be restored.

The garden and its canaIs were origi-nally watered from Shah Nahar passingundemeath the middle room of Aramgahand the portion of portico in its align-ment. Now canal water has been aban-doned in favour of the tube-well waterand the covered portion of the canalblocked on its ou ter end, but the cavityunder the floor of the room still exists.Water of the fountain above percolatesinto the cavity, ramains stagnant thereand causes dampness in the superstruc-ture. The floor of this chamber will beopened, the sides made damp proofbygiving a vertical damp proof coursealong the walls, the bed raised aboutone foot and a copper pipe laid to drainoff the water from the fountain into theopen canal on the north. A double roof

210

was originally provided over the siderooms perhaps for keeping thern coolduring summer. Such a double roofstiIlexists in the western room. This upperroof is of battens and R.S. joists andappears to be of the Sikhperiod. ln theMughal times it mighthave been a flator chat ta arch. The present roof is nowdecayed and it is proposed to replace itby an R. C. C. slab The decayed piecesof the red sandstone chajja (eaves) ofthe portico wiIl be replaced and thepaneIled plaster of the exterior restoredin patches where it has decayed. Thewhole wiIl then be given a pucca Qalai

coating.The canais

The bed of alI the canaIs and crosscanaIs has become rough with the resultthat it catches impurities in water anddust and thus not only remains dirty buthelps growth offungus. The whole wiIlbe given a surface treatment of abouthalf an inch thick coat of white cernent,mixed with marble powder. ln some ofthe canaIs the bed has become too roughand absorbent. ln such cases the wholeof the old lime terracing wiIl be re-moved, the joints of the base course ofthe bricks properly raked and a dampproof course of cernent concrete 1 :2:4provided and weIl cured.The pavements

The cut and dressed diaper patternbrick work of pavements, barring afew, is in an advanced stage of decayand needs restoration. The restorationwill be done with a similar techniquewith a dampproofcourse, 2'/2" thickofcernent concrete 1 :2:4 underneath.The Aiwan (the reception hall)

Originally it was the finest buildingof this royal garden. It was alI paved inmarble with a border and perhapssornewhat like the space under thearches on the north overlooking the

Page 8:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

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Shalamar Garden -Preservalion and Reslorntion

second terrace in tessellated marbleflooring. This being the place where alIdignitaries are seated during their re-ception, the plan provides its restora-tion on the original pattern.

The existing decayed cernent pl asterover the walls will be scraped to thebrick core. The joints of the brick willbe raked to a depth of at least 112".Thereafter the entire surface will becleaned and given a wash of a solutionof cernent mixed with 1 0% pudlo. Overthis kankar lime plaster will be restoredto the original thickness in three coats:the top one being ofpucca Qalai with asprinkling of stucco designs in relief inloti form and fresco work specially inthe spandrels of the marbles. The de-signs to be adopted will be worked outlater. The ceiling in tarsimbandi is ofthe Sikh period. It will however, beretained but painted afresh in lacqueraccording to the original designs.

There are signs of salinity on thewalls which is the result of dampness"Below the floor of the Aiwan thereexists a tank which is fed by the canaland when full, its water spills over thefamous marble cascade in the middleterrace. It appears that the walls and thefloor of this tank now absorb water.This tank should be opened and thewalls and floor of the reservoir shouldbe made water tight by laying a dampproof course of cernent concrete 1 :2:4.

The decayed and missing membersof the red sandstone Chajja will bereplaced using a technique sirnilar tothe that originally used. Its angle ofslope will also be adjusted. The pl astercovering the eaves has decayed andwill be replaced by a fresh layer ofKankar lime strengthened with lO%grey cernent. The missing brackets ofred sandstone supporting the chhajjawill also be provided, similar to the

original.The staircases on the east and west ofthe Aiwan

These staircases are in a good stateof preservation except for a few stoneslabs here and there which have de-cayed because of salinity on account ofdarnpness. Such slabs will be replacedby new ones, but before laying the newslabs, the surface of the brick rnasonryin core will be treated with a solution ofgrey cernent with 10% pudlo afterclearing the surface including raking ofdecayed rnaterial frorn the joints of thernasonry .The balustrade or railing onthe three sides of these staircases is atpresent of iron grill, paintd in red butoriginally it was in red sandstone jaliwhich will now be restored as the irongrill being an anachronisrn is an eye-sore in these ancient surroundings and

atrnosphere.The ramps

Beyond the staircases rnentionedabove are the rarnps which are pavedwith brick on edge which though in afair state of preservation.have becorneslippery because of thick painting. Thepointing has to be rernoved and de-cayed bricks in patches replaced. Thepainting should be flush but not over-lapping. The railing or balustrade of theramps is in heavy terracotta jali of theSikh period locally called pinjras. It isbuilt on low brick plastered walls andare bad I y lacking in proportions. Origi-nally this railing must have been in redsandstone jali with a base and top railwith lattus. The base rail, it appears wasfixed on a red sandstone dasa. The pointwill be examined and the railing re-stored accordingly.The grill over the dividing wall

The highest terrace is 14'-8 " higher

than the middleterrace and needs sornemeasure of protection against acciden-

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Page 9:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the
Page 10:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Shalamar C;arden -Preservalion and Restoralion

pure ornament. The Master Plan pro-vides for refacing the pavilions as origi -nally done. The facing wilI be done intrue fonD and in the spirit of Mughalarchitecture restoring the multicuspedarches. the columns with their base.shaft and capitals in the original shapeand all mouldings in the real Mughalcurvature. Before facing the pavilionwith marble slabs. its masonry wilI betreated as in the case of the walls of thetank as described above. The ceilingofall the pavilions in tarsimbandi belongsto the Sikh period and is in a fairly goodstate of preservation. It is proposed thattarsimbandi should be preserved butpainted afresh in lacquer in the originalpatterns. AIl the four pavilions in thisterrace are provided with small 'burjis.on the four corners of the roof. Theburjis are of the Sikh period. It is pro-POsed to remove this external elementafterthorough examination of the same.The cascade

The great marble cascade has lost itsblack inlay in its chini khana and devèl-.oped cracks which are a source forpercolation of water in the core of thecascade causing darnpness. It is pro-videdin the Master Plan to examine thecascade thoroughly and check aIlsources of percolation of water. Themissing lining of the cascade will alsobe restored in black marble. TheKhayabans on the sides of the shallowbasin in front of the cascade were origi-nally paved with marble slabs. The in-ternal facing of the slabs was workedout in dasa pattern. The dasa pieceswere removed. sometime in the past.and assorted pieces of marble fromdifferent parts of the buildings laid tl;1ereto serve the purpose. These pieces havea black lining and do DOt blend with oneanother. It is proposed to remove theseincongruous pieces and restore the en-

tire area of the Khayabans with propermarble dasa and slabs. The marble ofthe cascade has also gone yellowish dueto age and weathering effects. This willbe thoroughly cleaned and poli shed.The pavement

AlI the pavements in the middle ter-race have deteriorated and are in anadvanced stage of decay due to con-stant use. It is proposed to restore thepavements preserving as rouch of theoriginal patches as possible. The pave-ments will be laid over with a base of11/2" thick damp proof course 1:2:4over a layer of21/2" thick cernent con-crete in the ratio of) :3:4 .The en tirebase will be laid over a cushion of 3"thick layer of sand.

ln addition, thorough repairs to thesmall cascades on the sides of the raisedplatform and shallow canaIs in the twolower portions of the Middle Terracewill also be carried out.Tazakari work

The wallson the south, east and westthe terrace were originally decoratedwith tazakari work (brick imitation).Portions of the original work which stillexist will be thoroughly cleaned chemi-cally. The reroainingsurface of the wallswill be provided with tazakari work inthe original pattern. ln the originalscheme of decoration the spandrels offalse arches were plastered and the in-terior of the panels lined with brickimitation. Restoration will be done withthe original technique and form.4.3 The lowest terracePavements

AIl the Khayabans (walk ways) onthe sides of the canaIs and along theenclosure wall had brick on edge pave-ment in geornetrical designs. AlmostaIl the pavements in this terrace havebeen shattered and decayed due to con-stant use and effects of weathering. It

,., 213

Page 11:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Muhammad Ishliaq Khan .I ;-

has been provided in the Master Plan torestore these pavements in the originaldesign as detailed above.The enclosure wall

The enclosure wall had 'kanguras'or merlons at the top but they havedisappeared at a number of places. Theplaster of the wall is also crumbling fastdue to weather effects and salts. It isprovided in the Master Plan to restorethe missing 'kanguras' in brick ma-sonry in the original form. The newlyrestored 'kanguras' will be kanker limeplastered to match the adjoining sur-face. The plastering of the wall willalso be carried out with kankar limemixed with lime cream in the ratio of7: 1 and strengthened with half a seer ofchopped jute per maund. Bèfore carry-ing out plastering the surface of the wallwin be thoroughly cleaned and jointsraked out to a depth of l ". Thereafterthe surface treatment as explained abovewin be carried out on the newly ex-posed surface of the brick masonry .

GatewaysThe original entrance to the garden

was made through two gateways in theeastern and western sides of the enclo-sure wall in this terrace. After the open-ing of the new entrance in the middle ofthe highest terrace in the middle of the19th century these gates were closedand fell into disrepair. The original doorleaves were removed sometime in thepast and the modem door leaves lookuglyin the ancientset ting. Itis proposedto provide new Mughal type battenedand braced wooden doors. The impos-ing original gateways were embellishedwith colourful tile mosaic, the only ex-ample of this art in Shalamar. The tilemosaic has considerably decayed andneeds restoration. The restoration willbe carried out in the original schemeafter this technique has been properly

214

revived in the Departmental workshop.Thorough repairs to the gateways willalso be carried out.The Pavilion

ln the middle of the northern wall islocated a pavilion which, as recordedby Mulla Abdul Hamid Lahori, was theDaulat Khana-e-Khas (Hall of PrivateAudience). This pavilion has badly suf -

fered at the cruel hands of time and thevandalism of the Sikhs. Its entire dadoand floor marble is now missing. Themodern roof with wooden battens laidon R. S. Joists now replaces the origi-nal arched roof. It is provided in theMaster Plan to restore its marble floor-ing copying existing specimens, andrefacing the dado with marble slabsinlaid with black marble lining. Thedenuded walls will be plastered inkankar lime after surface treatment asdescribed above. AIl the panelling andloti from decorations will be restored inthe plaster on the original scheme andpatterns. The existing modern roof willbe replaced by R. C. C. slabs treatedinternally in curvilinear form and fin-ished with Ghalib Kari. Attempts willalso be made to restore the missingfrescoes in the original scheme of floraland geometric designs.Corner burj

The corner burj (chaukhandi) aredouble storey buildings. The lower sto-rey comprises an octagonal chamberwith an open fronted aiwan and theupper storey comprises a domed pavil-ion built in red sand stone. The terracedflooring, kankar lime plaster andghalibkari work with fresco, lining theceiling of the chamber have deterio-rated and decayed. The red sand stonechajja (eaves) are also in a dilapidatedcondition. Some red sand stone inem-bers of the chajjas,jali and mutakas andcolumns of the upperpavilion have also

~

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Page 12:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the
Page 13:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Muhammad Ishtiaq Khan

6. Acquisition of landThe surroundings of a monument

constitute an essential part of its layout.Any change in the environment andset ting around the monument disruptsnot only its scale but also affects its verycharacter. The Shalamar Garden, oneof the most important monuments ofthe Mughal period in Lahore, is seri-ously threatened by ever increasing en-croachments around it. As describedpreviously the monument is alreadysurrounded by shabby hutments. If thisis not checked at this stage it will not bepossible in future to keep the set ting ofthe monuments in its original form. Ithas therefore been proposed in theMaster Plan to acquire an area of 200feet around the monument for thispurpose. The total area to be acquiredfor the purpose cornes to 337 canaIs andthe estimated cost of land at the presentmarket rate cornes to Rs. 84,25.000/-

The area thus acquired will not besafe until it is demarcated and devel-oped into grassy lawns. A surn of 3lakhs of rupees bas therefore been pro-vided for developing the area into grassylawns and demarcating it with barbedwire fencing around it.

It was in mid 1960 that the Depart-ment chalked out a programme for illu-minating the buildings and gardens ofShalamar .The project was carried outby Philips Electric Company and basbeen appreciated by the people. Theexperts however, have suggested cer-tain additions and alteration with a viewto laying more emphasis on the archi-tecturaI aspects of the garden. It is pro-posed to carry out these alterations andextend the illuminations to the remain-ing two terraces, namely, the MiddleTerrace and the Lowest Terrace. A de-tailed scheme for the same will beworked out by Electrical Engineers in

5. Improvement or GardensBesides its magnificent building

Shalamar is also famous for its charrn..ing and refreshing garden. It is recordedthat a large variety of fruit trees ofSummer and Winter seasons wasplanted in the gardens during the Mughalperiod. During the Sikh period most ofthese trees died and new trees ofman-go were planted in their place. Laterduring the possession of the garden byMain Iftikharuddin a few other varie-ties were also introduced. Most ofthesetrees are now old and need replace-ment. The grass in the lawns is cloggedand needs returfing. The old arrange-ment of irrigating the garden by canalwater is also disrupted. The presentpumping plant is insufficient to copewith the demand for water for the ca-naIs, fountains and the lawns. It is pr<Jo-POsed in the Master Plan to reintroducethe trees of the Mughal period, namelygrafted mango, cherry , apricot, peachapple, almond, mulberry , sour orange:),sweet oranges etc. It is expected thatwith the introduction of these trees theincome of the garden will also be en-hanced approximately to the tune ofRs.50,0001- per annum.

The present water supply arrange-ment by a single tubewell is hardlysufficient for both the canaIs and lawnsin the first terrace. It is provided in theMaster Plan to install a new deep tur-bine for augmenting the present watersupply. The lawns spreading over anarea of 40 acres will also be returfedduring the operation of the plan. Tomake proper arrangement for the watersupply to the lawns a network of G. I.Pipes will be laid in aIl the three ter-races. The entire scheme of improve-ment of gardens and returfing oflawns etc. is estimated to cost Rs.

3,98,4751-.

216

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Page 14:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

.'

Sbalamar Garden -PreseIVali~RestOOllion

consultation with the Officers of theDepartment in due course. A lump suffiprovision of 61akhs of rupees based onthe previous expenditure bas been setaside in the Master Plan.

Sft. Per Sft. Amount7. Abstract of cost1- Restoring brick on edge pavement in

geornetricaJ patterns laid with finely dressedand robbed bricks of speciaJ size(71/4" x 4" x 15/16) in cernent mortar (1:3) Sft.

328224

Sft.131-

Amount4266912.00

2- Kankar lime plaster 3" thick (on average)strengthened with white lime cream in a ratioof (7:1) and finished in two coats. Sft.

270/5031950 86425.003- Kankar lime plaster 2" thick (on average)

strengthened with white lime cream. lna ratio of (7: I) and finisbed in two coats. 65450 160/50 105047.00

4- Restoring the decayed and missingtazakari work over the prepared surfaceto match with the adjoining work. Sft.

6/-21000 126000.005- Providing and restoring white marble

jalis side posls (Mutakas), mouldedbase stone DilSsa under thejalis as peroriginallay out pattern. 782496.00

6- Providing and restoring from 11/2" to 3"thick white màrble facing on brick core

of the pavilions on either side of thecentral tank in cernent mortar (I :3)

%sft611-3950 240950.00

7- Providing and restoring 11/2" to 3"thick white rnarble facing laid in cernentrnortar I :3 similar to the original. % sft.

631-2650 166950.008- Kankar lime palster 1" thick (on average)

strangthened with white lime cream in aratio of 7: 1 and fini shed in one coat. 50052 109/- 82285.00

9- Pucca Qalai pl aster 114" thick over thebase coat of kankar lime plasterincluding decorative panels andcusps of the arches. 5052

Total:200/- 100100.00

5957169.00595769.00B.F.

100Providing and restoring the missingfresco paintings in floral designs as peroriginallay out after the detailed study. sft.

9600sft.301- 288000.00

11-Providing andllaying red sand stonechajja (eaves) by using old and newstones in 1 :2 (:ement mortar stained tomatching colour. 3700 52/- 192400.00

217~

Page 15:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Muhammad Ishtiaq Khan ,

Sft. per Sft. Amount12-Providing and laying 2" ta 2112" thick

white rnarble flooring with inlay work inwhite and grey cernent rnortar 91 :2) asper original design and patterns. 17300 401- 692000.00

13-Restoring tarsimbandi with design inlacquer paint similar 10 the original.

4300 6/76 24725.00

14-Terraced roofing 3" d1Ïck withkankar lime (1:2) strengthened wit'!10% cernent. % sft.

138/5011950 16556.0015-Restoring the nùssing and decayed inlay

black rnarb1e pieces in white and greycernent rnortar (1:2). 10000,00

16-Providing and fixing in position deodarwooden doors as per Mughal design andpattern 3" thick with the vertical battens(6'x4') on the back, complete with spikes,nails and hinges etc. 30000.00

17- Thorought and urgent petty repair to cornertowers such as restoring the missing red!sand stone jali. muttaccas. stone flooringof lower chamber including the front ai'Nan. 3()()()()().OO

18-Thorough repairs to Khawabgah such as re-storing the missing terraced flooring,plastering fresco painting and also providingMughal pattern doors to the front opening. 30000.00

7540850.00

B. F. 7540850.00

Total:-

19-Removing the decayed and deteriorated redsand stone facing carefully from the dividingwall between Ist and 2nd terrace andre-using the new and selected stone membersout of the old ones in place of damaged ones. 150000.00

20-Restoring the missing, decayed anddamaged portion of the enclosure wall,brick pavement, reproducing the frescopainting white marble and red sand jali,muttaccas, red sand eaves and other tholoughrepairs of the main structure and Arzbegiincluding the development of its gardensaccording ta the originallay out ofNaqqar Khana. 6()()()()()()()

21-Provision for the purchase of white marbleand sand including aIl its transporationcharges etc. 900000.00

22-Provision for thorough examination of thepavilionsto find out root cause of thedampness causing great damage to thestructures and the rectification, thereafter .

218

43961.00

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Page 16:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Shalamar Garden -Preservalion and Resloralion-~ ~..

sn. per Sft. Amount23-Very urgent and unavoidable repairs

scattered all over the monuments to addstuctura1 stability, also to restore minormissing features of Ghalib Kari, MunabbatKari and retouchaing of fresco paintings. 200000.00

24 -Providing and fixing stereo tape recorderswith amplifier and extra speakers at differentbuildings of the flrst and 2 nd tenaces for

comrnentary on the monument & aIl otherunforeseen expenditure. 30000.00

25-Removing the decayed lime plaster toexpose the brick core of the pavilions. % sft.

50000

Total:-

% sft.2/ 1000.00

9465811.00B. F. 9465811.00

%sft.5000sft. 900. 00

2960 7000.00

26-Dismantling the red sand stone flooringand their removal to suitable place forstoring somewhere for reuse when so

required.

27- Taking down the old and decayedred sandstone Chajja (eaves) slabs etc.carefully and their removal for storingat a suitable place in the Jrd tenace forreuse if and wh(:n so required.

28-Dismantling terracota jali and removalof its debris away from the monuments. 1210 300.00

29-Dismanling old country brick workin kankar lime mortar. It also includesdismantling, sorlting and stacking ofuseful materials at suitable place andremoval of debris away from themonuments. sft.

241-348224 83573.0030-Add 15% on total cost of the estimate

to meet the fluctuation of labour andmarket rates in view of the natureof items as the entire projectis to be completed in five years. 1433637.00

31- Add 3% on total cost of the estimateto meet expenditure of additional staff required for its supervision till the schemeis completed. 32733.31

32- Contingencies and unforeseen items 5%. 566047.691187002.00Total:-

Improvementofgarden1- Providing and fiXing turbine motor pumping

set (KSB) 5"x6", motor 25 H.P. 1440, 400 voltscomplete in every respect with 10" dia boreincluding construction of chamber and otheroverhead charges etc. Rs. 700001-

219~

Page 17:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the
Page 18:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Shalamar Garden -Preservation and Restoration

Fig. 3. Central tank and red sandstone pavilions of Shalamar Garden.

221

Page 19:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

222

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Page 20:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Shalamar Gardeff -Preservalion and Resloralion

I

Fig. 5. Aerial view of Shalamar in 1987.

223

Page 21:  · Kashmiri language these words mean 'paddy' and 'black' loamy soil 're-spectively' The combined word 'Shalimar' would thereforemean 'black loarny soil for paddy' and indeed the

Fig.5. White Marble Chadar(cascade}

Fig. 6. Tile-mosaic decoration from the main gateway of the garden.

224'.v


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