Page 1 of 10 Sweetheart Shopper ********************************* Important Printing Information ******************************* When printing the pattern pieces set printer to print actual size by turning off any “scaling”. A 1”x1” test square is included on the first page of the pattern pieces so you can use a ruler to check that the pattern has printed the correct size. ************************************************************************************************************* General Info The pattern piece A needs to be taped together along the lines marked on the pattern pieces. For sturdier handles interface the strap pieces. You may need more interfacing than listed in the supplies. Interfacing the handles adds bulk so if you don’t have experience sewing on thicker fabrics visit my blog for some thick fabric sewing tips: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/12/sewing-through-thick-layers-of-fabric.html RS/RST: Right Side/Right Sides Together WS/WST: Wrong Side/Wrong Sides Together Seam allowance: Edge of standard presser foot. Top stitching: Measurements given in instructions. Finished bag measures: 15" wide x 9” high x 4.5" deep 7" zippered pocket 24" straps Supplies: ½ yard focus fabric (exterior fabric) ½ yard lining fabric ¼ yard fabric for straps and trim ½ yard interfacing One 7” all-purpose coil zipper 8” elastic piece or ribbon One button Ruler and/or yardstick Fabric marking pen or tailors chalk 1. Read pattern instructions once before starting. 2. Cut Pieces Focus Fabric - Two Piece A – Main Body
Transcript
Page 1 of 10
Sweetheart Shopper
********************************* Important Printing Information ******************************* When printing the pattern pieces set printer to print actual size by turning off any “scaling”. A 1”x1” test square is included on the first page of the pattern pieces so you can use a ruler to check that the pattern has printed the correct size. *************************************************************************************************************
General Info The pattern piece A needs to be taped together along the lines marked on the pattern pieces. For sturdier handles interface the strap pieces. You may need more interfacing than listed in the supplies. Interfacing the handles adds bulk so if you don’t have experience sewing on thicker fabrics visit my blog for some thick fabric sewing tips: http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/12/sewing-through-thick-layers-of-fabric.html RS/RST: Right Side/Right Sides Together WS/WST: Wrong Side/Wrong Sides Together Seam allowance: Edge of standard presser foot. Top stitching: Measurements given in instructions. Finished bag measures: 15" wide x 9” high x 4.5" deep 7" zippered pocket 24" straps
Supplies: ½ yard focus fabric (exterior fabric) ½ yard lining fabric ¼ yard fabric for straps and trim ½ yard interfacing One 7” all-purpose coil zipper 8” elastic piece or ribbon One button Ruler and/or yardstick Fabric marking pen or tailors chalk
1. Read pattern instructions once before starting.
2. Cut Pieces Focus Fabric - Two Piece A – Main Body
Page 2 of 10
Lining - Two Piece A – Main Body One 8.5” (w) x 12” (h) pocket (drawn with marker & ruler) One 9” (w) x 2” (h) strip (drawn with marker &ruler)
Strap, Trim & Side Seam – Diagram ���� Two 28” (w) x 3” (h) pieces cut on cross-grain Two 10” (w) x 3” (h) pieces cut on cross-grain Two 3” (w) x 3” (h) pieces cut on cross-grain Interfacing - Two Piece A – Main Body One piece 9” (w) x 2” (h) (drawn with marker & ruler)
3. Apply Interfacing Follow manufacturer instructions for heat setting and press time to apply the two interfacing pieces A to the WS of the focus fabric A pieces. If using sew-in interfacing place the two pieces on the WS of the focus fabric pieces and pin in place at top, sides and bottom.
4. Sew Zippered Pocket a. Create Zipper Window 1. On WS of one lining piece A find the center top
and mark. Measure down 2”. Center interfacing strip with the top edge at the 2” mark. Iron interfacing to the lining.
2. Flip lining panel RS up and find the center top.
Measure down 2” and center the 9” x 2” fabric strip RS down with top edge at 2” mark. Pin in place around edges.
3. Take window pattern piece and center it on the
WS of the 9” x 2” fabric strip. Draw around the outside edges of pattern piece. Tip: You may find it easier to draw the window with a ruler and marker. It should be 7.5” wide x 3/8” high.
4. Stitch around the outline of window directly on the line drawn in step #3. Tip: Don’t back stitch at the beginning (adds bulk) when sewing around the window. When you meet up with the beginning stitches shorten your stitch length and sew 2-3 stitches to tack down the beginning stitches.
5. Draw a line through the middle of the window
and then diagonally to the corners as shown in diagram to the right. Cut along marked lines. At corners snip close to the stitches but not through them. Tip: To get started it helps to fold the lining panel in half and snip in the middle of the box. Then open it up and cut down one side and then the other.
Page 3 of 10
6. Press to shrink stitches and make fabric pliable. Pull fabric strip through the window to the WS of the lining panel. Finger press edges into place and then press with the iron.
a. Insert Zipper and Pocket 1. Lay zipper RS up with zipper pull on the left
hand side. Center the window over the zipper. Hand baste zipper to the window around top, sides and bottom.
2. Turn lining piece with basted zipper WS up. Take the pocket piece and match the RS of one of the 8.5” edges to the WS of the BOTTOM of the zipper. The pocket piece is now covering the zipper and extending up over the top of the lining piece. Pin the pocket in place from the front side along the bottom of the zipper window or hand baste in place from the back. Tip: Pin in place along back and then turn over and pin on the front side. Then remove pins on back before sewing.
3. Turn lining piece RS up so you can clearly see
the front of the zipper.
4. Attach zipper foot to your machine with it set to sew on the RIGHT hand side. Open the zipper half way.
5. Starting about 0.50” before the bottom left
hand corner of the zipper window sew the zipper in place close to the edge of the window (about 1/8”). Once you get close to the zipper pull you will need to stop with your needle in the fabric and lift the zipper foot. TURN MACHINE OFF. Move the pull back under the zipper foot until the zipper is again closed. It is a good idea to turn the machine off when moving the pull because it is very easy to accidentally step on the foot pedal and restart sewing and possibly sew a finger…ouch. If you can’t get the pull under the zipper foot go ahead and remove the fabric and cut thread. Close zipper and then restart sewing where you left off going over your last stitches to tack them down.
6. Optional Reinforcement: Fold the pocket piece down towards the bottom of
the lining piece and sew a second line of stitching just below your first line. This will topstitch the pocket piece down on the inside and reinforce the zipper.
7. If you haven’t already done so for the reinforcement stitches, pull the pocket piece down towards the bottom of the lining piece. Then fold the pocket upwards matching the RS of
Page 4 of 10
the raw 8.5” edge to the TOP of the WS of the zipper. Pin in place from front or hand baste in place from back.
8. On the RS of the lining piece begin stitching at
the lower left corner of the zipper window going up the side. Turn and stitch across the top of the window. Turn again and stitch down the right hand side of the window.
9. Optional Reinforcement: Sew a second time around the SIDES and TOP of the zipper window 1/8” from the stitches in #8.
10. Replace zipper foot with standard presser foot.
11. Flip lining piece over and fold the lining piece up out of the way (see photo) so you can sew the pocket. Starting on right side as close to the fold as you can get stitch down the right side of the pocket, across the bottom and up the left side until you reach the fold. Double stitch the pocket sides and bottom to reinforce.
12. Use a seam ripper to remove any visible basting stitches around the zipper window. Tip: If the machine stitches go over some basting stitches it may be easier to cut the stitches and pull them out individually (use tweezers if necessary).
5. Complete Lining Bag Shell a. Using the markings on the pattern piece A as your guide draw the pleat marks on the RS
on both the left and right side of each lining piece A.
b. Fold pleats by creasing fabric and bringing pleat mark #1 to meet the middle mark #2. Pin in place. Fold fabric in from mark #3 to meet the middle (#2). Pin in place. Insert third pin above the middle pleat crease to hold them neatly in place. Repeat for remaining three pleats.
c. Sew across pleat at 1/8” stitching it firmly in place. Repeat for remaining three pleats.
d. Lay lining pieces A RST matching up pleats and then sides and bottom. Pin in place around the sides and bottom.
e. Sew around sides and bottom.
Page 5 of 10
f. Clip curves and press around stitching to shrink thread. Set lining bag shell aside.
6. Complete Focus Fabric Bag Shell (repeat of steps above except pleats will be done on the WS of fabric this time) a. Draw the pleat marks on the WS on both the left and right sides of each focus fabric
piece A using the pattern markings as your guide.
b. Fold pleats by creasing fabric and bringing pleat mark #1 to meet the middle mark (#2). Pin in place. Fold fabric in from mark #3 to meet the middle mark (#2). Pin in place. Insert third pin above the middle of the pleat crease to hold them neatly in place. Repeat for remaining three pleats.
c. Sew across one pleat at 1/8” stitching it firmly in place. Repeat for remaining three pleats.
d. Lay focus fabric pieces A RST matching up pleats and then sides and bottom. Pin in place around outer edge.
e. Sew around sides and bottom.
f. Clip curves and press around stitching to shrink thread.
7. Attach Lining and Outside Bag Shell Together a. Turn focus fabric bag shell RS out. Turn lining
bag shell WS out.
b. Place lining bag shell INSIDE focus fabric bag shell so the bag shells are WST.
c. Match up edges and pin in place.
d. Machine baste (long stitches) around the
upper edges to hold bag shells together.
8. Make Loop and Attach a. Fold elastic piece into a loop shape by bringing
the two raw edges together. Hand sew through both ends as close to the ends as you can.
b. After sewing through both ends wrap thread
around the loop bottom several times and then poke needle through the center. Don’t snip thread yet.
c. Find the center of one focus fabric piece A along the top edge. Insert needle with
attached loop through fabric 1/2” from the edge. Pull through bringing the loop down to attach. The loop should face in from the edge of your fabric as shown in the photo.
Page 6 of 10
d. Stitch the loop in place to secure. Tie off thread and snip.
9. Press Trim, Straps and Finishing Pieces. a. Press Strap and Trim Pieces. 1. Lay one strap piece WS up and fold in half
lengthwise (28” side) WST.
2. Press to create a crease down center.
3. Open up fabric and press one side in toward the center crease.
4. Press other side in toward the center crease.
5. Fold fabric piece in half again to encase the raw edges in the middle. Set piece aside.
6. Repeat steps 1-4 for remaining strap and two trim pieces. Set pieces aside.
b. Press Side Seam Pieces
1. Lay one finishing piece WS up and fold one side in towards center and press.
2. Press opposite side in towards center. Set pieces aside.
10. Attach Trim Pieces a. Open one trim piece (10” piece) up so the WS
is facing up.
b. Match the RS of one edge of the trim with the RS of the LINING along the top middle section. Pin in place.
c. Stitch the trim to the upper edge of the bag.
d. Fold trim piece over the top of the bag. Finger press the trim into place and pin in place on RS of focus fabric side.
e. Top stitch the trim in place 1/8” from the open
lower edge by using the 5/8” guide on your machine plate.
f. Top stitch the trim along the folded upper edge
at 1/8”.
g. Top stitch down the middle of the trim piece using the 3/8” guide on your machine plate.
h. Repeat steps a-g for second trim piece.
Page 7 of 10
10. Attach Straps a. Open one strap piece (28” piece) up so the WS is facing up.
b. Match the RS of one edge of one end of the
strap piece trim with the RS of the LINING along side section. Pin in place.
c. Match the opposite end of the strap RS with
the LINING along opposite side section. Be careful not to twist the strap piece in the center. Pin in place.
d. Stitch the strap in place on each side of the bag (pins in photo).
e. Fold trim piece over and neaten the creases
of the trim. Pin in place on RS of focus fabric side.
f. Top stitch the strap in place 1/8” from the open lower edge by using the 5/8” guide on your machine plate.
g. Top stitch the strap along the folded upper edge at 1/8”.
h. Top stitch down the middle of the strap piece
by using the 3/8” guide on your machine plate.
i. Repeat steps a-h for second strap piece.
11. Cover the Raw Side Seams a. Open one side seam piece (3” piece) up so
the WS is facing up.
b. Match the RS of one end of the piece with the RS of the FOCUS FABRIC along side seam. Pin in place.
c. Stitch across the side seam piece 0.75” from
the edge. Trim the corners at angles to help hide them underneath. They have a tendency to want to flare out.
d. Fold the piece up over the top edge of the bag.
e. Fold the raw edge under and into place on the lining side of the bag.
f. Pin in place on the inside of the bag.
Page 8 of 10
g. Slip stitch around the bottom and sides of the side seam piece stitching it in place on
both the inside and outside of the bag.
12. Finishing a. Trim any stray threads.
b. Fold the loop over the top of the bag and mark button placement on the front of the bag.
