Khadi Extended Documentation

7/30/2019 Khadi Extended Documentation

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KHADI

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 2

Regions 2

Producers Communities 2

Raw Materials 2

Tools 4

Production Process 6

The Existing KhadiSet-Up 13

Use of the Product 13

Appendix 14


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1. Introduction

Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric made largely out of natural fibers like

wool, cotton and silk. Mahatma Gandhi helped popularize the fabric and made it into

a potent symbol in Indias freedom struggle. Khadi also became a symbol of the

resurgence of Indias rural industries. Today, Khadi remains an important cottage

industry, providing livelihoods to millions, especially in rural areas.

The hand spun yarn used in Khadi maintains a softness that gives Khadi its

characteristic feel and comfort. The hand weaving of the fabric interlaces the threads

in a manner that allows maximum air to permeate through the fibers and thus, Khadi

is one of the most comfortable fabrics in warm climates. As Khadiis made of natural

fibers viz. cotton, silk and wool, spun and woven in a natural environment, it can

boast of being completely natural. Other fabrics from mills or even handlooms,

receive yarn which is generally blended with some regenerated cellulose fibers.

Khadi dyed in natural dyes also makes a perfect combination for a green, eco-

friendly fabric.

Khadiand handlooms are often confused as being the same, but they are not. Khadi

is hand spun and hand woven fabric. In other handloom fabrics, the yarn is machine

spun.

Recent years has seen additions to the traditional Khadi line-up such as poly-Khadi.

Poly-Khadifabric uses blended synthetic fibers rather than the traditional handspun

thread.

2. Regions

It is spread across the country. However, this specific documentation is based on the

Khadiweavers of Rajasthan

3. Producers Communities

People involved in weaving are commonly known as bunkar. In Rajasthan, the

communities mostly involved in the process are Meghwals and Zulahas. The KVIC

(Khadiand Village Industries Commission) and KhadiSocieties, which produce Khadi

fabric at a commercial level, have no caste and community bars. Spinning is generally

done by women, and men usually do the weaving.

4. Raw Materials

The main raw materials are cotton, wool and silk. A synthetic fiber called polyester is

also used to produce poly-Khadibut this fabric is produced on a much smaller scale

than the traditional Khadi fabrics. As this document is prepared in Rajasthan it

mainly gives insights on cotton and woolen Khadi.

4.1 Cotton

There are different counts of cotton yarn required for the warp and the weft. The

specifications for these yarns are:


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For warp: Khadiweaving contains an entire range of fabric so the yarn used ranges

from 2/20s to 2/40s in the warp. For shirting fabrics 2/20s and 2/32s are used; for

suiting 2/40s and 2/32s. Twisted yarn is used in the warp to resist the stress during

weaving. The cost of yarn for the warp ranges from Rs 60 to Rs 200 per kg. (Figures

as of Jan 2005)

For weft: In the weft single yarns are used. Counts range from 4s

to 40s.

The cost of

yarn ranges from Rs 80 to Rs 130 per kg. Cotton fiber costs in the range of Rs 20 to Rs

30 per kg, depends upon the quality and the availability. (Figures as of Jan 2005)

Pic: Cotton yarn

4.2 Wool

In Khadionly handspun yarn is used which is not very even and fine. Local desiwool

gives a coarser yarn; when imported merino is used, a finer yarn can be obtained. In

woolen Khadifrom 2nm to 10nm woolen yarn is used.

The cost of wool depends on whether Indian desiwool is used, or merino imported

from Australia or New Zealand. Fine desiwool ranges between Rs 90 Rs 110 per kg

and coarse desistarts from as low as Rs 50 - Rs 60 per kg. On the other hand fine

merino ranges between Rs200 - Rs 250 per kg and the coarse merino may start from

Rs 150 per kg. (Figures as of Jan 2005)

Pic: Hand spun woolen yarn


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Raw Material Procurement: Raw material for the process is readily available with

local dealers and the KhadiSocieties. It has to be processed further in order to make

it suitable for using in the operations of weaving. These operations are stated below.

5. Tools5.1.Pit Loomor Ground Loom or Horizontal Loom, popularly known as Khadi: On a

horizontal ground loom, the warp would be strung between two rows of pegs. The

weaver would have to lean over in order to work, so the pit loom was developed.

With the warp strung over a pit, the weaver could now sit with his or her legs

underneath, thus being on level with the loom. The horizontal loom is the oldest and

simplest weaving set, made of wood or metal. Wooden frames are fixed on the

ground by metallic nails, which are used as halter and mooring devices. The nails can

be taken off and the loom transferred to another place. . Small rugs and thick

blankets are woven on these looms. The horizontal loom costs between Rs 4,000 and

Rs 6,000 (Figures as of Jan 2005) and many Khadiweavers use it.

5.2. Frame Loom or Vertical Loom: Frame looms basically follow the same principles

as ground looms. The loom is constructed out of sticks and boards attached at right

angles (producing a box-like shape), which means that it is portable and can even be

held on the weaver's lap. Beams of the loom are called roblers and the foot pedals

at the bottom of the loom for controlling the operation of the heddle harness is

known as treadles.

Pic: Wooden Frame Loom

A frame loom costs between Rs 12000 to Rs 14000 with iron angles, and Rs 15000 to

Rs 16000(dated 26th

Jan, 05) with wooden angles. Most of the Khadiweavers using

frame looms use iron angles, as they require less maintenance.

5.3. Charkha and Takali: Transformation of fiber into yarn is done with the help of

takalior hand operated Gandhi Charkha. The Khadi& Village Industries Commission

has also approved a modified hand operated charkha called theAmbar Charkha with


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better output particularly with cotton. A charkha is also used for making rolls or

bundles of yarn for the weft on bobbin.

Pic: Charkha

5.4. Bobbin: A bobbin is a small wooden stick, on which the yarn is rolled,to be used

on the loom for weaving.

Pic: Bobbins

5.5. Scissors: Scissors are used for finishing that is to remove the protruding fibers

from the final fabric.

Pic: Scissor
http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Scissor.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Scissor.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Scissor.jpg


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6. Production Process

The spinning of the thread on the charkha precedes the weaving ofKhadi. After this

the yarn goes to the bobbin winder, warper, sizer and finally to the weaver. Spinning

is mostly done by the girls and women in the villages, while weaving is done by men.

Because of the labor involved, the price of Khadicloth when it reaches the shops is

more than that of other fabrics.

The production process of Khadi fabric can be widely categorized in three steps

spinning, dyeing and weaving. The fabric is hand spun and hand woven. In a broader

sense the production of Khadi includes cotton growing, picking, ginning, cleaning,

carding, slivering, spinning, sizing, dyeing, preparing the warp and woof, weaving and

winding. These, with the exception of dyeing, are essential processes every one of

which can be effectively handled in the villages.

Pic: Charkha

Carding:It is a process in which the fiber that is in loose state, is opened, separated

and made free of external matter if any. Basically combing of fiber is called carding,

which is done by bows. This operation makes the fibers straight and aligned. The

yarn at this stage is called web. Now the fiber is ready to be converted into yarn.

6.1 Spinning

The carded fiber is taken and bursted with the help of a hand-operated charkha, to

produce yarn of various thickness and counts. The process is called hand spinning. It

is done on the takali, Gandhi charkha orAmbar charkha. The thread is then wound

on a small stick called a bobbin. In Khadiproduction, spinners supported by KVIC or

other KhadiSocieties generally do the spinning.
http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Charkha%201.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Charkha%20n%20Loom/Picture%20008.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Charkha%20n%20Loom/Picture%20008.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Charkha%201.jpg


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Pic: Spinning

6.1.1. Silk

Making yarn from silk fibers involves various techniques. There are three processes

to cater for the three types of fiber obtained from different parts of the single

cocoon. The rough outer layer of fiber is pulled off the cocoon and accumulated to

create a bundle that can be hung overhead and pulled down to be twisted by a drop

spindle. The inner filament is reeled off the cocoon by hand and spun on the thigh,

before it is twisted onto a reel. Between 6 and 12 cocoon filaments are plied

together creating a fine thread suitable for weaving. The remaining fiber comes from

the peduncle, which attaches the cocoon to the tree. This tough material is soaked in

water and then pounded before spinning by drop spindle. The resulting yarn iscoarser and darker than the others. The silk cost to the weavers is Rs 1400 to Rs 1600

per kg, and is made available to them mostly by the KhadiSocieties with which these

weavers are usually associated.

6.1.2 Cotton

Mostly women are involved in the time-consuming spinning process. Cotton spinning

is done with the help oftakalior hand operated Gandhi Charkha. The Khadi& Village

Industries Commission has also approved a modified hand operated charkha called

the Ambar Charkha with better output particularly with cotton. No scouring is

required in cotton as this is cellulose fiber, which contains no protein and grease.

6.1.3 Wool

Well-carded wool is bursted with the help of a hand-operated charkha and given the

required twisting to get the appropriate thickness and count.

6.2 Garneting

To remove the impurities from the woolen fiber it is treated in a solution of H2SO4 +

HNO3 before scouring.


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6.3 Scouring

It is a chemical process and the objective of the scouring is to remove the natural

and acquired adventitious impurities, present in the woolen yarn. The natural

grease, wool wax and dried perspiration are natural impurities present in the yarn;

dust, dirt, oil etc are acquired impurities. These are all removed in the scouring

process. Generally an alkali free, neutral soap along with a small quantity of soda ash

is used in this process. Scouring makes the yarn clean, smooth, white and more

receptive to dyes. All these process is then followed by drying and oiling to remove

the friction from the fiber.

6.4 Designing

In most of the cases designs are provided by the agencies placing the order with the

weavers as per the current trend. Often they are inspired by the weavers

themselves, based on traditional designs found in the region.

6.5 DyeingDyeing can be carried out at any of the following stages:

The fibers can be dyed before they are spun. Fiber dyeing provides a deep

penetration of the dye into the fiber, giving even color and excellent color-fastness.

The yarn can also be dyed after spinning but before the product is woven or

otherwise fabricated. This is calledpackage dyeing.

Before the fabric is finished, it can be dyed in lengths (piece dyeing). This process

allows manufacturers the opportunity to produce fabrics in their natural colors, and

then dye them to order.

In cross-dyeing (cotton and wool) fabrics of two or more fibers can be dyed so that

each fiber accepts a different dyestuff and becomes a different color, through the

use of appropriate dyestuffs for each fiber.

Khadiweavers employ both the process of dyeing vegetable dyes and Chemical dyes

to color yarn, fiber or fabric but in Rajasthan mostly Vegetable dyeing is being

practiced.

6.5.1 Natural DyesNatural dyes are mainly obtained from animal or vegetative materials with no or very

little chemical processing. The coloring matter is taken from the roots stems, barks,

leaves or flowers of bushes, herbs or shrubs.

Types of Vegetable Dyes Used: On the basis of the method of application, vegetable

dyes can be classified into two categories, viz

Substantive Dyes: They dye the fiber without any additive e.g.: turmeric (haldi),

Babool chilka, Pomegranate peels (Anarchilka), Henna (Mehandi), Catachu (Katha)

etc.


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Mordant Dyes: Some vegetable dyes have no direct affinity for the fiber; they adhere

to the fiber only with the help of a mordant which is generally a metal salt. The

mordant may be added to the dye in the dyebath (kundi) itself or applied

separately. Madder (Majith), Indigo (Neel), Hararh are examples of the mordant

dyes.

The weavers use tanks and big vessels for dyeing. Dyes which they use commonly are

turmeric (haldi), Babool chilka, Pomegranate peels (Anar chilka), Henna (Mehandi),

Catachu (Katha), Madder (Majith), Indigo (Neel), Hararh, Marigold, Onions, Walnut

Husks, etc. The mordants required by them are Alum, Copper Sulphate, Chrome, Tin,

Oxalic Acid, Tartar, Acetic Acid, etc.

Pic: Chart of vegetable dyes

Vat dyeing is the simplest form of dyeing; material is immersed in dye and gradually

brought to a boil. Alternatively the fiber is allowed to sit and soak for several hours

or days. During this period, agitation is necessary to allow full penetration of the

fiber by the dyestuff. Depending on the type of fabric and dyestuff used, certain salts

or acids are added to assist absorption of the dye.

Pic: Dyed cotton


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i) Cotton: VAT DYEING

ii) Dyeing Process (wool) - ACIDIC (fabric) DYEING

Yarn

Wetting

Coloring matter in 80 C water + VAT dyes

Roll

Bleaching & scouring (for impurity)

Drying

In cold Water

Fabric wetted in cold water

80 C water + Glaubs Salt + Chemicals

Wet clothes one at a time

Spinner (centrifuge)

Wash in cold water

Drying

Stirring


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iii) Dyeing Process (wool)- ACIDIC (yarn) DYEING

Yarn (15 kg.) wetted in cold water (3 quintals) + 100 g. Isapol +100 g. soda

80 C water + 500 g. Glaubs Salt + 1 kg. acid + 250 g. acetic acid

Dyeing (200 g. in 3 liters water)

Washing & Drying

Wash in cold water

Drying

Stirring


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iv) Dyeing Process (wool) - METAL COMPLEX DYEING

Some other processes of dyeing which are practiced by the weavers are mentioned

above. Prior to the dyeing process, the weavers usually test the prepared dyes on

their hands to check the shade of the color.

6.6 Weaving

The fabric formation from the yarn is known as weaving. It is the interlacement of

warp and weft. Warp is length-wise or longitudinal yarn (taana) and weft is breadth-

wise or horizontal yarn (baana). The process of weaving is done on manually

operated looms to produce Khadifabric. In practice, the basic purpose of the loom is

to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft

threads.

The first step in weaving is to stretch the warp yarns, which must be very strong. The

process is called beaming. The weft or woof filling crosses the warp, binding the

warp threads at either side to form the selvage. The three essential steps after the

warp is stretched are: shedding, or raising every alternate warp yarn or set of yarns

to receive the weft; picking, or inserting the weft; and battening, or pressing home

the weft to make the fabric compact. In Khadi weaving all these operations are

performed by hand.

Washing fabric (to remove impurity)

Washing

Dyeing (with metal complex dyes)

Milling

Stunting (drying)

Finishing

Pressing

Scouring
http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Miscellaneous/warp_definition.htmhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensionhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensionhttp://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Miscellaneous/warp_definition.htm


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6.7 Washing and Finishing

After the weaving on the loom, the fabric that comes out is known as gray fabric.

Gray fabric contains some impurities and requires treatments like washing,

calendaring, finishing, etc. Finishing is usually done at some nearby finishing plants.

Pic: Gray cloth

7. The existing Khadiset-up

The KhadiSocieties procure wool / cotton / silk fiber and distribute it to the women

spinners at the village centers. These women spin the fiber into yarn in their homes

on traditional or modern spinning machines. The yarn is then passed on to the

weavers for weaving on handlooms. Both fabric and yarn dyeing are done. Finishingof the fabric is done at a finishing plant usually in a small town. For stitched products

like garments or small furnishing items, stitching is done in house at the Society. The

finished product is packed and sent to rural and urban marketing outlets of Khadi

Societies.

The major chunk of marketing is done by various outlets of the Khadi Societies

spread across the country. As the fabric is a fashion statement nowadays

It is also used by renowned designers and marketed by designer Boutiques and

export houses as well.

8. Use of the Product

Khadi fabrics and their products come in a wide variety. While the fabrics are

available, finished products are also marketed. Mahatma Gandhi turned Khadiinto a

symbol of the National Struggle. The legacy is still visible in the white Khadi kurtas

worn by the political leadership in the country. Khadiis also considered a fabric that

embodies purity and simplicity in India. Of late, Khadi has been used by leading

fashion designers, and is coming to be seen as a fashion statement. The same

versatility of the fabric also lends itself for use as furnishings. For apparel as well as

furnishings,Khadi

has a small but discerning export market as well.
http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Gray%20Cloth.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_7/khadiphoto/Gray%20Cloth.jpg


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8.1 Woolen: Furnishing fabrics, cushions, blankets, throw, bags, shawls,

8.2 Cotton: Upholstery, shirting, bedspreads, curtains, table linen and kitchen linen

8.3 Silk: Saris, shirting, dress material

9. Appendix

Report from Textile Committee

Reports from Khadi Society Ajmer, Rajasthan

Reports from Rajasthan State Handloom Development Corporation (RSHDC)

http://www.ruda.org.in/

www.indiamart.com

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