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8/13/2019 Kim & John's 2013 Western Adventure
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Kim & Johns
Western Adventure
Summer 2013
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Our Summer of 2013
June 1, Minnetonka MN
Cue Simon & Garfunkel, "We've gone to look for
America . . ." Well, at least the northwest
portion of it!
June 1, Casselton ND
Eventful first day. Lost our
second20 foot awning when
it decided to self-deploy
(much like it's predecessor)at 60 mph, compounded this
time by gale force North
Dakota winds. Cut it loose
and recuperated at this less
than picturesque parking lot
campground west of Fargo ND.
June 2, Bismarck ND
Hit the sights on Day 2. We found the largest buffalo inthe world in Jamestown ND, and learned the tallest
building in North Dakota is the rather nondescript State
Capitol in Bismarck. Who knew?
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June 3, Dickinson ND
Thanks to all your terrific travel tips
(feeling alliterative today), we took in
part of ND's Enchanted Highway Truly
amazing art, including this 80 ton, 150by 110 "Geese in Flight," the largest
scrap metal sculpture in the world,
fittingly constructed in ND of oil well
tanks and pipe. Like all rock tours,
we've decided to christen our summer
sojourn the "World's Biggest Tour."
Im thinking we need to print
commemorative t-shirts . . .
June 3, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND
With every visit to a National Park, a grateful nation turns its eyes to Teddy Roosevelt, who first
visited the Dakota Territory in 1883 . . . albeit not in a diesel pusher. The beautifully rugged
landscape in his namesake park is a legacy of the conservation policy he shaped to benefit so
many generations yet to come.
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June 3, Glendive MT
Were averaging one marriage-affirming RV challenge a day, mostly electrical, and so far,
science, skill and cunning are winning out over fear, ignorance and superstition. Others involve
operator error, where our latest life lesson was gleaned from trying to park a 17 ton rolling
house on uncompacted gravel after a week ofrain. Wisdom comes from experience, and
experience comes from bad choices . . .
June 4, Billings MT
Took a look down a westbound road, right away I made my choice . . . Still cloudy, but we seem
to have finally outrun the rain, knock on naugahyde. Absolutely gorgeous night in Billlings on
the Yellowstone River at the worlds very first KOA. Kant make this stuff up!
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June 5, Anaconda MT
Crossing the Northern Rockies in Montana, its difficult not to wonder at the intrepid spirit of
the Lewis and Clark expedition more than two centuries earlier. In another first today, our
search for the worlds perfect lemonade ended with a
street vendor in Anaconda MT.
June 5, Missoula MT
A word about our Beast of Burden. Its a vintage1990 Monaco Signature Crown Royale, lovingly
restored (see before and after pix). For the cylinder-index crowd: Cummins L-10 engine, Allisontransmission & Bendix cruise that would carry us to the top of K-2, if asked. For the HGTV
crowd: refinished solid oak cabinets, 3/4" hardwood flooring, dry stack stone in kitchen and
bath, convection oven, washer/dryer, satellite HDTV, WiFi & assorted man cave electronics.
Lewis & Clark 2.0
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June 5, Rocky Mountains
Rocky Mountain Hiiiiiiiigh, Mon-tana-Ida-ho! Its
been three decades since I called Colorado home,
but memories of the summertime Rockies came
flooding back today. Brilliant, clear skies that goon forever. Hot, penetrating sun, soothed by a
pine-scented breeze. High mountain meadows
cut by icy streams. Sweater-cool nights with a
million stars all around. And the mountain air.
Always crisp, forever clean.
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June 6, Osburn ID
Weve been especially taken by the fellow adventurers
weve met along the way. Like earlier explorers of
strange new lands, campers of all ages and ilk are
refreshingly accessible to their transient neighbors,
willingly sharing tips and tales. Our new friends todayinclude an amateur gold-panning prospector, and this
gentleman teaching his grandkids how to fly fish . . .
and apparently the youngest, how to modern dance.
June 6, Wallace ID
One of the joys of adventuring is discovering
little towns along the way. Todays find wasWallace ID, an old mining town where every
downtown building is on the National Historic
Register, home of the Wallace Blues Festival,
beer of "historic proportion," and a manhole
cover declaring it the center of the universe.
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June 7, Moses Lake WA
We found a little touch of CO in the
Pacific Northwest in the eastern high
plains of WA. After an afternoon dip
at our nice little RV resort, we
discovered a wonderful little shopthat had Kims childhood bike and
clever lamps built out of household
objects, including a motorcycle
cylinder head and shifter for a switch!
June 8, Cascade Mountains
Completed our outbound leg today after the Beast courageously
surmounted another couple of mountain passes in the glorious
Cascades. Planning to dock in Port Seattle for a few days to visit
friends. Interesting how we land voyagers have adopted the
nautical terms, tho urban campsites are far less sylvan than
we are used to!
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June 9, Seattle WA
Spent a wonderful day with my college roommate Ted and his lovely wife Jeanne rediscovering
Seattles vibrant arts community, natural urban environment, and fresh salmon! Its so nice to
share such a comfortable familiarity with someone from your deep, deep past. All these things
that dont change, come what may.
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June 10, Bonney Lake WA
The mountain was out today, and
the bluest skies youve ever seen
are in Seattle! Fellow Minnetonka
retiree Joe and his delightful wife
Bev shared with us their friendshipand beautifully renovated home,
and then let me live a vicarious
moment on the ultimate two-
wheeler. After a great sea-side
burger, we took in the sights of
verdant Point Defiance Park and
the Tacoma Narrows bridge,
whose predecessor infamously
bucked and collapsed under wind
resonance to the awe of us one-
time engineering majors.
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June 11, Vancouver BC
The Beast carried us into international territories today
as we left the U S of A and arrived in Vancouver BC for a
few days. Aside from the impossibly lush flora along the
coast, humungous trees, pleasantly mild climate, cool
suspension bridges and interesting place names, we areparticularly impressed that the snow stays in the nearby
mountains - where it belongs!
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June 12, Victoria BC
Mother, mother ocean, I have heard you call.
Following a misty morning ferry ride, the liquid
sunshine of the Vancouver Island mountains
delivered us into another day in paradise. Strolledamong the landed gentry at Victorias world
renowned Empress Hotel (shown here with my own
Princess), before opting for a more modest
afternoon tea at one of those delightful chance
discoveries. Ive my fathers French Canadian name,
but carry my mothers English tastes.
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June 13, Capilano BC
1,860 miles on The Beast and 350 more on The Toad at our halfway mark. To my Canuck great-
grandfather (and namesake, John Gunyou), thats 3,557 kilometers. I can see for miles and
miles and miles and miles . . .
June 13, Vancouver BC
Vancouver BC is the land of emerald rain
forests, without the stifling humidity. An
interesting meteorological phenomenon only
Paul Douglas Fir might explain. A clime that
nurtures mossy beds and huge, first-growth
ferns that predate time. And trees.
Reeeeeealy big trees. Awe-inspiring trees that
still tower over you when standing on a
suspension bridge watching eagles fly below.
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June 14, Vancouver BC
The Vancouver bromance continues.
Primordial forests, nearby mountains AND
oceans, breathtaking gorges and First
Nation carvings, vibrant urban density at a
livable scale, multimodal boulevards withgargantuan hedges, But mostly, its the
incredible skies. Skies in constant motion,
with ever evolving depths and hues,
impossible to faithfully capture in two-
dimensional digital images.
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June 15, Vancouver BC
As we reluctantly leave the west coast to cross the Cascades, I find myself thinking about the
waters we have come to know, and the salmon who defy logic and gravity to return to the place
of their birth to spawn and complete their life cycle. Leaving the bays that only hint of vast
oceans to enter the streams that cut through rocky, tree-lined canyons, up into waters with a
compelling life and energy of their own. Waters so rightly captured by Norman Maclean, "When
I am alone in the half light of the canyon, all existence seems to fade into being with my soul
and my memories of those I have loved. Eventually all things merge into one . . . and a river
runs through it.
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June 16, Leavenworth WA
The high plains and rolling Columbia River
valley between the Cascades and Rockies
must have been a welcome respite for those
intrepid, if not slightly unbalanced, souls who
ventured west in the pre-HoJo days. Divertingonto blue highways, we spent a delightful
evening on the Wenatchee River near
Leavenworth WA, the self-proclaimed
Accidental Bavaria of North America, where
even multinational banks and McDs sport
Germanic script.
June 17, Coeur DAlene ID
Our portal to the Rockies was Coeur
DAlene, a picturesque mountain town
on a beautiful Idaho lake. We
especially enjoy the local adventuring
at the end of our travel day, and
todays discoveries included acharming college campus, downtown
public ball field, very cool wooden
hulled boat, extraordinary sidewalk
commemoration, and the longest
floating boardwalk in the world -
another notch on our biggest tour!
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June 17, Post Falls ID
Nearing the Montana border, we felt compelled to order rare steaks for dinner last tonight, and
were not disappointed. My heroes have always been cowboys. And they still are, it seems . . .
all I know is, weve definitely left the land of Earl Grey tea, fresh cream and honey.
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June 18, Bitterroot Range ID
A peaceable drive today through the Western Rockies along gorgeous river valleys. Skirting the
Bitterroot Range brought to mind another Norman Maclean memory, "As the moon lingers for
a moment over the Bitterroots, before its descent into the invisible, my mind is filled with song.
I find I am softly humming, not to the music, but to something else. A place remembered . . .
somewhere else. A field of grass and wild flowers where no one seems to have been, except thedeer. And the memories are strengthened by the feeling of you . . . dancing in my arms." I do so
miss mountains in my life.
June 19, Butte MT
Stood alone on a mountain top, starin' out
at the Great Divide. Land Yacht carried us
across the peak of North Americas
watershed in a steep climb that
necessitated downshifting, leaning forward
and gritting out teeth. Down into the Land
of Big Skies, and boy are they ever! Skies sobig you need an owls neck to take it all in.
Skies so big I have to wear my grandpa
goggles to screen all that sun.
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June 19, Livingston MT
Weve been leading a charmed Camelot life, where it
never rains till after sundown . . . or at least until after
we hookup! It was a dark and stormy night at a beautiful
little campground on the banks of the Yellowstone River,
owned by John & Kim (no relation). Ambled aroundhistoric Livingston MT, and returned for breakfast at a
little diner we discovered the night beforeour usual
routine. Kim, sporting her new non-sweatshop sweater,
had the best French toast ever, and I enjoyed perfectly
prepared soft scrambled eggs, a rasher of slab bacon,
and even a honey jar for my tea. The historic Murray
Hotel sports an identical sign as Minneapolis classic
steakhouse, and we found out later that a MN friends
brother owns it!
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June 20, Billings MT
Mountain pass downgrades are a challenge -
as Newton points out, bodies in motion tend
to stay in motion (especially massive bodies!),
unless acted on by an outside force (like Jake
brakes!) Land Yacht sailed through the highplains of southeastern MT, where cattle graze
among rolling buttes that look like sock lumps
under a green blanket. In Sheridan WY, King
of Cowboy Towns, our campsite fittingly
faced a horse pasture.
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June 20, Sheridan WY
We spent a fun evening at a street festival in
Sheridan, complete with a cowboy band, future
Olympian, street artists, somewhat ancient cavalry
drum corps, and even a Penneys with the J.C.!
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June 21, MN ND MT ID WA BC WA ID MT WY SD MN
There is a road, no simple highway, between the dawn and the
dark of night . . . Navigator Kim has truly risen above and
beyond our directionally-challenged marriage. (It was an omen
that neither of us could remember where we parked our
car after getting our marriage license.) She has skillfullybalanced such exogenous variables as daily mileage limits,
habitable campgrounds, nightly new towns, Google-mappable
and Beast-drivable routes, to construct a remarkable voyage
across the northern tier of our country. All that, and entertain
the pilot by conjuring up creative limericks . . .
June 21, Gillette WY
We cruised through the Gillette WY coal
fields, which triggered flashbacks to my
former CO consulting life. Then, the Dakotas
welcomed us back the way we left them -
with menacing thunderstorm clouds that
outran The Beast, and reached down to
envelop us like a Steven King fog.
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June 21, Black Hills SD
Well, after 21 days of peaceful coexistence, The Beast turned on us. After removing its 50 lb.
starter in a thunderstorm (the next day was drier), the failing organ had to be admitted to the
diesel hospital, and with the weekend, that means were at least two days behind our original
MN ETA. The good news is, were marooned in a beautiful Black Hills park. The bad news is,
satellite, internet and phone service is more than a little sketchy. The good news is, we have anexcuse to see more of the local sights. The bad news is, many of them involve reptiles,
animated creatures, wax figurines and waterslides.
June 22, Black Hills SD
The overwhelming majesty of Mt. Rushmores
heroic profiles juxtaposed with one mans
unrequited dream of a Crazy Horse Memorial
evoked memories of the many faces of America
we have seen along the way. The seasoned WA
traveler who offered us counsel on his favorite
campgrounds. At the top of a MT mountain
pass, the trucker who shared driving tips, the
retired SD mechanic who drove an hour one
evening to help try and resuscitate The Beast,
the genial BC border guard who was more
interested in our travels than in possible
contraband, the ND auto parts store ownerwho took time to diagnose a problem, then
sent us to a competitor, the WY couple who
shared stories of their 13 grandchildren -
wishing their four sons would stop! All our
fellow AZ, CO, OR, VA, CA, GA, et al mobile
migrants who have provided the many human
scale experiences that so enriched our travels.
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June 23, Black Hills SD
We spent Day 2 of our enforced relaxation in the
mountain sunshine on the spectacular Needles Highway
in Custer State Park, with its intimidating 8 foot-wide
rock tunnels, towering pillars, expansive vistas, mountain
meadows and deep blue lakes. Only a ceramic buffalo,but then, everything feels a little grander at altitude.
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June 24, Bad Lands National Park SD
On the road again. Just can't wait to get on the road
again . . . the organ transplant was successful, so The
Beast was discharged from our Black Hills KOA to the
northern plains. We bypassed Wall Drug, foregoing
the requisite bumper sticker, but did divert into theBadlands, which I first visited many years ago on a
solo motorcycle trip from CO to MN. Riding quietly
and alone through those unimaginable formations, I
remember struggling to fathom the awe of the first
visitors when they sanctified the grounds for all
future beliefs. Now Kim and I both do.
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June 25, Belvidere SD
There's a song that they sing when they take to the highway . . . This adventure definitely
needed a 60s sound track. Looking back on these many posts, it seems Ive managed to invoke
(some twice) Simon & Garfunkel, Bob Seger, Bob Dylan, Willie Nelson, the Grateful Dead, the
Stones, the Eagles, the Who, the Jimmy Buffet, Allman Brothers, John Denver, Judy Collins, even
Learner & Loewe and retro Perry Como, and now Sweet Baby James.
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June 25, Wall SD
Returning to sea level, we seem to have transitioned from grandiose natural scenery to
beckoning man-made sights. Leaving the Pacific Northwest, Cascades, Rockies, Black Hills and
Badlands, we entered the vast rolling plains of East Dakota, with nature on a much smaller
scale, like the curious dragonflies that shared our campsite. Sights ranged from a recreated
1880 prairie town, Elvis Harley, and the worlds only Palace of Corn, all of which will have towait for a future trip with the grandkids. Although . . . as a child of the corn belt, I found the
latter concept strangely compelling.
June 26, Sioux Falls SD
Wheels up at 0900 in Sioux Falls SD
for the final leg of our month-long
adventure . . . foregoing the blue
highway hypotenuse for interstate
ease, our ETA is 1430 with a stiff
tailwind, and as the say in my
Mothers neck of the Appalachian
Hills, the Good Lord willin and the
creek dont rise.
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June 26, Minnetonka MN
What a long, strange trip its been . . . that seems aproper musical postscript for our 4,825 mile
voyage of discovery3,930 on the Land Yacht, and another 895 on our Toad side trips. Early
on, my Mother shared with Kim that all the Gunyou men have the soul of a gypsy. Nearly a
century ago, my grandparents took their well worn Airstream on a trip from OH to the west
coast, and several decades later, my parents did the same in their more than gently used motorcoach. We Gunyou men have been blessed with a modicum of mechanical skills to keep our
respective beasts running, but far more importantly, with companions willing to tolerate, if not
embrace, our innate wanderlust. As we concluded our road trip today, quite fittingly on our
anniversary, Kim and I shared our mutual surprise at how, despite our trepidation, a month of
extreme togetherness has actually brought us much closer. In addition to a more comfortable
familiarity, it seems the choreography of close quarters has resulted in a penchant to finish
each others sentences . . .