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Kim & John's 2013 Western Adventure

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    Kim & Johns

    Western Adventure

    Summer 2013

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    Our Summer of 2013

    June 1, Minnetonka MN

    Cue Simon & Garfunkel, "We've gone to look for

    America . . ." Well, at least the northwest

    portion of it!

    June 1, Casselton ND

    Eventful first day. Lost our

    second20 foot awning when

    it decided to self-deploy

    (much like it's predecessor)at 60 mph, compounded this

    time by gale force North

    Dakota winds. Cut it loose

    and recuperated at this less

    than picturesque parking lot

    campground west of Fargo ND.

    June 2, Bismarck ND

    Hit the sights on Day 2. We found the largest buffalo inthe world in Jamestown ND, and learned the tallest

    building in North Dakota is the rather nondescript State

    Capitol in Bismarck. Who knew?

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    June 3, Dickinson ND

    Thanks to all your terrific travel tips

    (feeling alliterative today), we took in

    part of ND's Enchanted Highway Truly

    amazing art, including this 80 ton, 150by 110 "Geese in Flight," the largest

    scrap metal sculpture in the world,

    fittingly constructed in ND of oil well

    tanks and pipe. Like all rock tours,

    we've decided to christen our summer

    sojourn the "World's Biggest Tour."

    Im thinking we need to print

    commemorative t-shirts . . .

    June 3, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND

    With every visit to a National Park, a grateful nation turns its eyes to Teddy Roosevelt, who first

    visited the Dakota Territory in 1883 . . . albeit not in a diesel pusher. The beautifully rugged

    landscape in his namesake park is a legacy of the conservation policy he shaped to benefit so

    many generations yet to come.

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    June 3, Glendive MT

    Were averaging one marriage-affirming RV challenge a day, mostly electrical, and so far,

    science, skill and cunning are winning out over fear, ignorance and superstition. Others involve

    operator error, where our latest life lesson was gleaned from trying to park a 17 ton rolling

    house on uncompacted gravel after a week ofrain. Wisdom comes from experience, and

    experience comes from bad choices . . .

    June 4, Billings MT

    Took a look down a westbound road, right away I made my choice . . . Still cloudy, but we seem

    to have finally outrun the rain, knock on naugahyde. Absolutely gorgeous night in Billlings on

    the Yellowstone River at the worlds very first KOA. Kant make this stuff up!

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    June 5, Anaconda MT

    Crossing the Northern Rockies in Montana, its difficult not to wonder at the intrepid spirit of

    the Lewis and Clark expedition more than two centuries earlier. In another first today, our

    search for the worlds perfect lemonade ended with a

    street vendor in Anaconda MT.

    June 5, Missoula MT

    A word about our Beast of Burden. Its a vintage1990 Monaco Signature Crown Royale, lovingly

    restored (see before and after pix). For the cylinder-index crowd: Cummins L-10 engine, Allisontransmission & Bendix cruise that would carry us to the top of K-2, if asked. For the HGTV

    crowd: refinished solid oak cabinets, 3/4" hardwood flooring, dry stack stone in kitchen and

    bath, convection oven, washer/dryer, satellite HDTV, WiFi & assorted man cave electronics.

    Lewis & Clark 2.0

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    June 5, Rocky Mountains

    Rocky Mountain Hiiiiiiiigh, Mon-tana-Ida-ho! Its

    been three decades since I called Colorado home,

    but memories of the summertime Rockies came

    flooding back today. Brilliant, clear skies that goon forever. Hot, penetrating sun, soothed by a

    pine-scented breeze. High mountain meadows

    cut by icy streams. Sweater-cool nights with a

    million stars all around. And the mountain air.

    Always crisp, forever clean.

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    June 6, Osburn ID

    Weve been especially taken by the fellow adventurers

    weve met along the way. Like earlier explorers of

    strange new lands, campers of all ages and ilk are

    refreshingly accessible to their transient neighbors,

    willingly sharing tips and tales. Our new friends todayinclude an amateur gold-panning prospector, and this

    gentleman teaching his grandkids how to fly fish . . .

    and apparently the youngest, how to modern dance.

    June 6, Wallace ID

    One of the joys of adventuring is discovering

    little towns along the way. Todays find wasWallace ID, an old mining town where every

    downtown building is on the National Historic

    Register, home of the Wallace Blues Festival,

    beer of "historic proportion," and a manhole

    cover declaring it the center of the universe.

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    June 7, Moses Lake WA

    We found a little touch of CO in the

    Pacific Northwest in the eastern high

    plains of WA. After an afternoon dip

    at our nice little RV resort, we

    discovered a wonderful little shopthat had Kims childhood bike and

    clever lamps built out of household

    objects, including a motorcycle

    cylinder head and shifter for a switch!

    June 8, Cascade Mountains

    Completed our outbound leg today after the Beast courageously

    surmounted another couple of mountain passes in the glorious

    Cascades. Planning to dock in Port Seattle for a few days to visit

    friends. Interesting how we land voyagers have adopted the

    nautical terms, tho urban campsites are far less sylvan than

    we are used to!

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    June 9, Seattle WA

    Spent a wonderful day with my college roommate Ted and his lovely wife Jeanne rediscovering

    Seattles vibrant arts community, natural urban environment, and fresh salmon! Its so nice to

    share such a comfortable familiarity with someone from your deep, deep past. All these things

    that dont change, come what may.

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    June 10, Bonney Lake WA

    The mountain was out today, and

    the bluest skies youve ever seen

    are in Seattle! Fellow Minnetonka

    retiree Joe and his delightful wife

    Bev shared with us their friendshipand beautifully renovated home,

    and then let me live a vicarious

    moment on the ultimate two-

    wheeler. After a great sea-side

    burger, we took in the sights of

    verdant Point Defiance Park and

    the Tacoma Narrows bridge,

    whose predecessor infamously

    bucked and collapsed under wind

    resonance to the awe of us one-

    time engineering majors.

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    June 11, Vancouver BC

    The Beast carried us into international territories today

    as we left the U S of A and arrived in Vancouver BC for a

    few days. Aside from the impossibly lush flora along the

    coast, humungous trees, pleasantly mild climate, cool

    suspension bridges and interesting place names, we areparticularly impressed that the snow stays in the nearby

    mountains - where it belongs!

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    June 12, Victoria BC

    Mother, mother ocean, I have heard you call.

    Following a misty morning ferry ride, the liquid

    sunshine of the Vancouver Island mountains

    delivered us into another day in paradise. Strolledamong the landed gentry at Victorias world

    renowned Empress Hotel (shown here with my own

    Princess), before opting for a more modest

    afternoon tea at one of those delightful chance

    discoveries. Ive my fathers French Canadian name,

    but carry my mothers English tastes.

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    June 13, Capilano BC

    1,860 miles on The Beast and 350 more on The Toad at our halfway mark. To my Canuck great-

    grandfather (and namesake, John Gunyou), thats 3,557 kilometers. I can see for miles and

    miles and miles and miles . . .

    June 13, Vancouver BC

    Vancouver BC is the land of emerald rain

    forests, without the stifling humidity. An

    interesting meteorological phenomenon only

    Paul Douglas Fir might explain. A clime that

    nurtures mossy beds and huge, first-growth

    ferns that predate time. And trees.

    Reeeeeealy big trees. Awe-inspiring trees that

    still tower over you when standing on a

    suspension bridge watching eagles fly below.

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    June 14, Vancouver BC

    The Vancouver bromance continues.

    Primordial forests, nearby mountains AND

    oceans, breathtaking gorges and First

    Nation carvings, vibrant urban density at a

    livable scale, multimodal boulevards withgargantuan hedges, But mostly, its the

    incredible skies. Skies in constant motion,

    with ever evolving depths and hues,

    impossible to faithfully capture in two-

    dimensional digital images.

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    June 15, Vancouver BC

    As we reluctantly leave the west coast to cross the Cascades, I find myself thinking about the

    waters we have come to know, and the salmon who defy logic and gravity to return to the place

    of their birth to spawn and complete their life cycle. Leaving the bays that only hint of vast

    oceans to enter the streams that cut through rocky, tree-lined canyons, up into waters with a

    compelling life and energy of their own. Waters so rightly captured by Norman Maclean, "When

    I am alone in the half light of the canyon, all existence seems to fade into being with my soul

    and my memories of those I have loved. Eventually all things merge into one . . . and a river

    runs through it.

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    June 16, Leavenworth WA

    The high plains and rolling Columbia River

    valley between the Cascades and Rockies

    must have been a welcome respite for those

    intrepid, if not slightly unbalanced, souls who

    ventured west in the pre-HoJo days. Divertingonto blue highways, we spent a delightful

    evening on the Wenatchee River near

    Leavenworth WA, the self-proclaimed

    Accidental Bavaria of North America, where

    even multinational banks and McDs sport

    Germanic script.

    June 17, Coeur DAlene ID

    Our portal to the Rockies was Coeur

    DAlene, a picturesque mountain town

    on a beautiful Idaho lake. We

    especially enjoy the local adventuring

    at the end of our travel day, and

    todays discoveries included acharming college campus, downtown

    public ball field, very cool wooden

    hulled boat, extraordinary sidewalk

    commemoration, and the longest

    floating boardwalk in the world -

    another notch on our biggest tour!

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    June 17, Post Falls ID

    Nearing the Montana border, we felt compelled to order rare steaks for dinner last tonight, and

    were not disappointed. My heroes have always been cowboys. And they still are, it seems . . .

    all I know is, weve definitely left the land of Earl Grey tea, fresh cream and honey.

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    June 18, Bitterroot Range ID

    A peaceable drive today through the Western Rockies along gorgeous river valleys. Skirting the

    Bitterroot Range brought to mind another Norman Maclean memory, "As the moon lingers for

    a moment over the Bitterroots, before its descent into the invisible, my mind is filled with song.

    I find I am softly humming, not to the music, but to something else. A place remembered . . .

    somewhere else. A field of grass and wild flowers where no one seems to have been, except thedeer. And the memories are strengthened by the feeling of you . . . dancing in my arms." I do so

    miss mountains in my life.

    June 19, Butte MT

    Stood alone on a mountain top, starin' out

    at the Great Divide. Land Yacht carried us

    across the peak of North Americas

    watershed in a steep climb that

    necessitated downshifting, leaning forward

    and gritting out teeth. Down into the Land

    of Big Skies, and boy are they ever! Skies sobig you need an owls neck to take it all in.

    Skies so big I have to wear my grandpa

    goggles to screen all that sun.

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    June 19, Livingston MT

    Weve been leading a charmed Camelot life, where it

    never rains till after sundown . . . or at least until after

    we hookup! It was a dark and stormy night at a beautiful

    little campground on the banks of the Yellowstone River,

    owned by John & Kim (no relation). Ambled aroundhistoric Livingston MT, and returned for breakfast at a

    little diner we discovered the night beforeour usual

    routine. Kim, sporting her new non-sweatshop sweater,

    had the best French toast ever, and I enjoyed perfectly

    prepared soft scrambled eggs, a rasher of slab bacon,

    and even a honey jar for my tea. The historic Murray

    Hotel sports an identical sign as Minneapolis classic

    steakhouse, and we found out later that a MN friends

    brother owns it!

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    June 20, Billings MT

    Mountain pass downgrades are a challenge -

    as Newton points out, bodies in motion tend

    to stay in motion (especially massive bodies!),

    unless acted on by an outside force (like Jake

    brakes!) Land Yacht sailed through the highplains of southeastern MT, where cattle graze

    among rolling buttes that look like sock lumps

    under a green blanket. In Sheridan WY, King

    of Cowboy Towns, our campsite fittingly

    faced a horse pasture.

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    June 20, Sheridan WY

    We spent a fun evening at a street festival in

    Sheridan, complete with a cowboy band, future

    Olympian, street artists, somewhat ancient cavalry

    drum corps, and even a Penneys with the J.C.!

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    June 21, MN ND MT ID WA BC WA ID MT WY SD MN

    There is a road, no simple highway, between the dawn and the

    dark of night . . . Navigator Kim has truly risen above and

    beyond our directionally-challenged marriage. (It was an omen

    that neither of us could remember where we parked our

    car after getting our marriage license.) She has skillfullybalanced such exogenous variables as daily mileage limits,

    habitable campgrounds, nightly new towns, Google-mappable

    and Beast-drivable routes, to construct a remarkable voyage

    across the northern tier of our country. All that, and entertain

    the pilot by conjuring up creative limericks . . .

    June 21, Gillette WY

    We cruised through the Gillette WY coal

    fields, which triggered flashbacks to my

    former CO consulting life. Then, the Dakotas

    welcomed us back the way we left them -

    with menacing thunderstorm clouds that

    outran The Beast, and reached down to

    envelop us like a Steven King fog.

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    June 21, Black Hills SD

    Well, after 21 days of peaceful coexistence, The Beast turned on us. After removing its 50 lb.

    starter in a thunderstorm (the next day was drier), the failing organ had to be admitted to the

    diesel hospital, and with the weekend, that means were at least two days behind our original

    MN ETA. The good news is, were marooned in a beautiful Black Hills park. The bad news is,

    satellite, internet and phone service is more than a little sketchy. The good news is, we have anexcuse to see more of the local sights. The bad news is, many of them involve reptiles,

    animated creatures, wax figurines and waterslides.

    June 22, Black Hills SD

    The overwhelming majesty of Mt. Rushmores

    heroic profiles juxtaposed with one mans

    unrequited dream of a Crazy Horse Memorial

    evoked memories of the many faces of America

    we have seen along the way. The seasoned WA

    traveler who offered us counsel on his favorite

    campgrounds. At the top of a MT mountain

    pass, the trucker who shared driving tips, the

    retired SD mechanic who drove an hour one

    evening to help try and resuscitate The Beast,

    the genial BC border guard who was more

    interested in our travels than in possible

    contraband, the ND auto parts store ownerwho took time to diagnose a problem, then

    sent us to a competitor, the WY couple who

    shared stories of their 13 grandchildren -

    wishing their four sons would stop! All our

    fellow AZ, CO, OR, VA, CA, GA, et al mobile

    migrants who have provided the many human

    scale experiences that so enriched our travels.

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    June 23, Black Hills SD

    We spent Day 2 of our enforced relaxation in the

    mountain sunshine on the spectacular Needles Highway

    in Custer State Park, with its intimidating 8 foot-wide

    rock tunnels, towering pillars, expansive vistas, mountain

    meadows and deep blue lakes. Only a ceramic buffalo,but then, everything feels a little grander at altitude.

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    June 24, Bad Lands National Park SD

    On the road again. Just can't wait to get on the road

    again . . . the organ transplant was successful, so The

    Beast was discharged from our Black Hills KOA to the

    northern plains. We bypassed Wall Drug, foregoing

    the requisite bumper sticker, but did divert into theBadlands, which I first visited many years ago on a

    solo motorcycle trip from CO to MN. Riding quietly

    and alone through those unimaginable formations, I

    remember struggling to fathom the awe of the first

    visitors when they sanctified the grounds for all

    future beliefs. Now Kim and I both do.

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    June 25, Belvidere SD

    There's a song that they sing when they take to the highway . . . This adventure definitely

    needed a 60s sound track. Looking back on these many posts, it seems Ive managed to invoke

    (some twice) Simon & Garfunkel, Bob Seger, Bob Dylan, Willie Nelson, the Grateful Dead, the

    Stones, the Eagles, the Who, the Jimmy Buffet, Allman Brothers, John Denver, Judy Collins, even

    Learner & Loewe and retro Perry Como, and now Sweet Baby James.

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    June 25, Wall SD

    Returning to sea level, we seem to have transitioned from grandiose natural scenery to

    beckoning man-made sights. Leaving the Pacific Northwest, Cascades, Rockies, Black Hills and

    Badlands, we entered the vast rolling plains of East Dakota, with nature on a much smaller

    scale, like the curious dragonflies that shared our campsite. Sights ranged from a recreated

    1880 prairie town, Elvis Harley, and the worlds only Palace of Corn, all of which will have towait for a future trip with the grandkids. Although . . . as a child of the corn belt, I found the

    latter concept strangely compelling.

    June 26, Sioux Falls SD

    Wheels up at 0900 in Sioux Falls SD

    for the final leg of our month-long

    adventure . . . foregoing the blue

    highway hypotenuse for interstate

    ease, our ETA is 1430 with a stiff

    tailwind, and as the say in my

    Mothers neck of the Appalachian

    Hills, the Good Lord willin and the

    creek dont rise.

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    June 26, Minnetonka MN

    What a long, strange trip its been . . . that seems aproper musical postscript for our 4,825 mile

    voyage of discovery3,930 on the Land Yacht, and another 895 on our Toad side trips. Early

    on, my Mother shared with Kim that all the Gunyou men have the soul of a gypsy. Nearly a

    century ago, my grandparents took their well worn Airstream on a trip from OH to the west

    coast, and several decades later, my parents did the same in their more than gently used motorcoach. We Gunyou men have been blessed with a modicum of mechanical skills to keep our

    respective beasts running, but far more importantly, with companions willing to tolerate, if not

    embrace, our innate wanderlust. As we concluded our road trip today, quite fittingly on our

    anniversary, Kim and I shared our mutual surprise at how, despite our trepidation, a month of

    extreme togetherness has actually brought us much closer. In addition to a more comfortable

    familiarity, it seems the choreography of close quarters has resulted in a penchant to finish

    each others sentences . . .


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