KRAKÓW

August - September 2008

instant

Introducing KrakówFor a foreigner Kraków can be carved in two segments: the old town and Kazimierz. Wedged between these two districts lies Wawel. For Poles this castle and cathedral complex is a defining icon of national pride and patriotism. For the tourist Wawel means queues, Kodak, dragons and an unforgettable journey through the heritage and legends of this country. Forget any guidebooks you may have swallowed on the way, a walk through the courtyards and corridors of Wawel is an A-Z through this nation’s history and tradition. Put it on the top of any itinerary you have.

Back to the city centre, and the beauty of Kraków’s old town cannot be ignored. Stuffed with museums, galleries and gargoyles, the gridlike street plan is powdered with chapels, churches and a blend of architectural styles. Both postcard perfect and cliché, the old town is a battleground of souvenir stores and mime artists. Accordion players ply trade next to old trout’s selling bobble hats and bagels. It is an area of cellar bars and jazz clubs, of world-class restaurants and hole-in-the-wall kebab stands. Amazing.

And so to Kazimierz. Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s edgy, artistic character. Peeling façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafés, each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness.

Between Kazimerz, Wawel and the old town you’ll find approximately 2.5 million registered works of art, and nowhere near enough days to visit them all. As the museums and churches bolt their doors you’ll

see Kraków emerge in another guise entirely - as one of Europe’s premier party towns. Nowhere in the world boasts a higher concentration of bars than Kraków’s historic quarter; it’s been fun testing them out, now it’s your turn. Enjoy.

This mini-guide is designed to highlight the very best Kraków has to offer, with map references included where applicable. This is by no means a definitive guide to the city, but a scaled down version of our print publication - pick up a copy of our 156-page guidebook to the city from points listed on the panel next to the map overleaf. All map references used in our guidebook are the same as those used on this mini-guide to give you the most complete package of information to Krakow. Full contents of all our guides can also be found online at www.inyourpocket.com.

2ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

August - September 2008

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RestaurantsBars

ClubsSightsHotels

TransportMap

and a whole host of other useful information

Arriving by busInternational buses arrive and depart from the brand new terminal (Dworzec autobusowy) at ul. Bosacka (E-1). There’s a exchange bureau (kantor), open 08:30 - 17:30, as well as an ATM (bankomat). Payphones can be found in the main building, and you can buy phone cards from the newsagents. Here you can also buy pre-paid cards and SIM cards for your mobile. Lockers for left luggage cost 4-8zł depending on the size for 24hrs, and there are also larger lockers available if you’re lugging skiing gear or golf clubs. The bus station is right next to the train station so exactly the same rules apply for getting to town.Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. 012 393 52 52.

Arriving by carFor the time being there’s only one major highway leading into Krakow via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. A 6,50zł toll is paid when you enter and exit the motorway. The bottleneck doesn’t begin until you get into Krakow. If heading to the centre, be aware that parking is quite a chore.

Arriving by planeJohn Paul II Kraków Balice Airport (Port lotniczy w Krakowie Balicach imieniem Jana Pawła II ) is modern and easy to navigate, though not without its pitfalls. On arrival you’ll find a 24hrs currency exchange office as well as a clutch of ATMs (bankomat), as well as a helpful if limited tourist information point; you won’t be able to buy phone cards or train tickets, though they will be able to provide you with the next best thing: an In Your Pocket mini guide. There is no left luggage facility at the airport, and note that while there are payphones you’ll need to buy a chip card (karta telefoniczna) from one of the newsagents to operate them.The best way to get into town is to take the quick and frequent shuttle train to Kraków Główny. A free blue bus directly outside the terminal takes you to the airport’s new train station (you can walk in five minutes). Tickets are purchased from the conductor, and cost 6zł. The service runs every 20 minutes throughout the day, and the shuttle bus service is timed to coincide with departing trains.For those who can’t be doing with public transport, honest MPT 9191 taxis stand outside the main entrance to the airport and will charge you between 60-70zł to make the 11km journey into the city. The price goes up by 50 per cent between 22:00 - 06:00. Be wary of cowboy taxi operators and only use cabs that have meters, signs on the roof and their telephone number clearly on display.If arriving from another city in Poland, note that the domestic terminal is a ten minute walk from the main terminal building; it is not all that well sign posted. While MPT 9191 taxis usu-ally meet domestic flights, you will need to walk to the main terminal for all other transport options.John Paul II Krakow Balice Airport (Port Lotniczy Kraków Balice im. Jana Pawła II) ul. Medweckiego 1, tel. 012 295 58 00, www.lotnisko-balice.pl.

Arriving by trainThe main railway station (Dworzec Główny) is conveniently situated at the northern tip of the Old Town, and is just a hop, skip and a jump from civilization. From the platform simply fol-low the herd towards down the stairs and you’ll find yourself in the main station building. A Euronet ATM (bankomat) lurks in the tunnel, and you’ll find a PKO ATM in the main hall. The tunnel also houses a Tourist Information point (open 06:00

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

KRAKÓW

August - September 2008

N°53Poland - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)

UK - £5EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3www.inyourpocket.com

ISSN 1508-2334

Hit the hillsZakopane explored

Out of townfrom bat caves to salt mines

- 22:00). These guys have the usual display of pamphlets, can organize tours and stock In Your Pocket. Both sections of the station - the subterranean tunnel and the main hall - have left luggage lockers. A large piece of luggage will cost 8zł for one day, and a small one 4zł. Make sure you have change. Payphones can be found dotted around, though you will need to find a phonecard from a newsagent to use them. Taxis stand outside the main entrance, as well as on the top floor car park. In spite of the proximity to old town you’ll still find yourself charged about 10zł to get to the centre. Buses and trams stop outside Galeria Krakowska, with tickets priced at 2.50zł. Buy them from newsagents kiosks or from the self-service machines at the stop themselves. Most people however (unless they are weighed down by lug-gage) choose to walk into the Old Town, where most of the city’s hotels and hostels are. Just follow the signs for wyjście do centrum, or to Galeria Krakowska. From there you’ll find yourself deposited in a large granite floored plaza right in front of the Andels Hotel and Galeria Krakowska. Continue down until you reach a subway which leads under ul. Basztowa/ul. Westerplatte and you’ll find yourself in the old town.

Main Railway Station (Dworzec Główny) E-2, Pl. Jana Nowaka-Jeziorańskiego 3, tel. 012 393 15 80, www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 24hrs.

MinibusesKrakow Shuttle I-1, ul. Szlak 26/23, tel. 012 633 01 25, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good value Kraków and Katowice airport transfers, as well as tours of hard to reach sights in and around the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Public transportWhile Krakow has no metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with some night buses continuing after that. To buy tickets, look for the sign sprzedaż biletów MPK in kiosks or pay an additional 0.50zł and buy a ticket from the driver. One-trip tickets (one trip being one journey on a tram or bus not a point to point journey using different trams and buses) cost 2.50zł (1.25zł for concessions including children between 4 and 16 years of age), one-hour tickets 3.10zł (1.55zł), 24-hour tickets 10.40zł (5.20zł), 48-hour tickets 18.80zł (9.40zł), 72-hour tickets 25zł (12.50zł), 7-day tickets 38zł (19zł) and monthly passes 67.80zł for two lines. Of particular interest to families is the family ticket available for travel on Saturdays and Sundays. For a price of 16zł a family of up to 4 people (2 adults, 2 children under the age of 16) can enjoy unlimited travel on all day -routes in Krakow. One adult should write their details on the space provided on the reverse of the ticket and stamp it when they get on board the first bus or tram. ID should also be carried. Rucksacks, boxes or bags larger than 20x40x60cm no lon-ger require a seperate ticket. Note that ISIC or other foreign student cards are valid. It is very important to note that simply having a ticket does not give you the right to travel. You MUST stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out fines to those without valid tickets. They are obliged to carry ID and to show it upon request.An option worth noting is that the Krakow Tourist Card (see what to see section) includes unlimited travel in the price. It can be picked up at all the main tourist information points and selected hotels, hostels and travel agencies. If you plan to spend time sightseeing and travelling further than the old town square it definitely saves a lot of hassle with having to deal with kiosk owners and trying to figure out which ticket to buy.

ReligionFor over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholi-cism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.

SafetyIn general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The brevity and dexterity of Kraków’s criminal community has led to a spate of thefts from unattended coats and jackets. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by op-portunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport.

SmokingSmokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. Unlike other EU countries Poland is yet to introduce a ban on smoking in bars and restaurants, and so far no plans have been formally announced to do so.

3

Instant Kraków

BASICS

MoneyThinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł.

4BASICS

August - September 2008

TippingPolish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for foreigners. While in other civilised countries it’s normal to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even thank you in English, is the sign that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very expensive. We have heard instances of a customer leaving a 200zł note for an 80zł meal and then having to chase down the cheeky waitress to ask for the change. And while this is an extreme case, this happens far more often that you’d expect. To put things into context, even though salaries have risen for wait staff in the last couple of years thanks to a severe lack of supply, a typical waiter/waitress would be receiving around 10-15zł per hour. The waitress above assumed that the client wanted to leave a whole day’s salary. Nice work if you can get i t.

What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to a) make you feel deeply embarrassed i f you tr y to get anything back b) conveniently disappear having pock-eted your change or c) play the fool and suggest that i t is your faul t. We suggest that you only say thank you i f you are happy for the wait staff to keep the change. Otherwise we advise you to use the word ‘proszę’ only when handing back the bill and the payment. One final tip and this is to demonstrate we are not completely anti wait staff. I f you add a tip to your credi t card payment the wait-staff have to pay tax on i t. Any thing that you give in cash probably isn’t declared. So i f you do receive good service we urge you to reward i t and to make a tip in the form of cash.

ToiletsGenerall y speaking toilets in Poland come marked wi th a circle for women, and a triangle for men. Al though the habi t is graduall y dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facili ties - no matter how much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also used in train stations and most public conveniences. Keep small change handy.

Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding.Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.

Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’Basic pronunciation of consonants‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but one syllable.

Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get you started.

Civilitiescześć (cheshch) hi/byedzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/

afternoondobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good eveningdobranoc (dobrah-nots) good nighttak (tahk) yesnie (nyeh) noproszę (prosheh) pleasena zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheersdziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank youprzepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorrykocham cię (koham tshe) I love youMam ma imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name isJestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England

NecessitiesGdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?Czy mówi pan/pani po angielsku?

(che moovee pan/panee po angyelskoo?)

Do you (male/female) speak English?

Nie mówię po polsku

(nyeh moovyeh po polskoo)

I don’t speak Polish

Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh napeesatch)

Please write it down

Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too paleech?)

Can I smoke here?

Jedno piwo poproszę

(yedno peevo poh-prosheh)

One beer please

Numbers1 jeden yehden2 dwa dva3 trzy tshi10 dziesięć jayshench

GeneralAirport lotniskoTrain station dworzec pkpBus station dworzec pksRight/left prawo/lewoOne ticket to jeden bilet doFirst/second class pierwsza/druga klasa

Language smartsTerritoryPoland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Longest RiverKraków is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).

Highest PointThe highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level.

Population (2007)Poland 38,126,000 Warsaw 1,702,139Kraków 756,267 Łódź 755,251Wrocław 634,630 Poznań 564,951Gdańsk 456,658 Katowice 314,500Sopot 40,666

Local timePoland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

Twin TownsBordeaux, Bratislava, Curitiba, Cuzco, Edinburgh, Fes, Flor-ence, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Innsbruck, Kyiv, La Serena, Leipzig, Leuven, Lviv, Milan, Nuremberg, Orléans, Pecs, Rochester, NY, Seville, Solothurn, Vilnius, Zagreb

Facts & FiguresPrices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite in-creases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices.Market values as of 23rd July 2008 based on €1 = 3.21złProduct Price (zł) Price (€)MacDonald’s Big Mac 6,90 zł € 2,15Snickers 1,40 zł € 0,440.5ltr vodka (shop) 25,00 zł € 7,790.5ltr beer (shop) 3,00 zł € 0,930.5ltr beer (bar) 10,00 zł € 3,12Loaf of white bread 1,50 zł € 0,4720 Marlboros 7,95 zł € 2,481 ltr of unleaded petro (98) 4,99 zł € 1,55Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2,40 zł € 0,75

Market values

PLN US$ Euro Pound2.02zł = $1 3.21zł = €1 4.04zł = £1

1 zł $0,50 € 0,31 £0,252 zł $0,99 € 0,62 £0,493 zł $1,49 € 0,93 £0,744 zł $1,98 € 1,25 £0,995 zł $2,48 € 1,56 £1,236 zł $2,97 € 1,87 £1,487 zł $3,47 € 2,18 £1,738 zł $3,96 € 2,49 £1,989 zł $4,46 € 2,80 £2,2210 zł $4,95 € 3,12 £2,4720 zł $9,90 € 6,23 £4,9450 zł $24,75 € 15,58 £12,35100 zł $49,50 € 31,15 £24,69150 zł $74,26 € 46,73 £37,04200 zł $99,01 € 62,31 £49,38250 zł $123,76 € 77,88 £61,731 000 zł $495,05 € 311,53 £246,91

Quick currency convertor

Cream of the cropAmadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. 012 429 60 70, fax 012 429 60 62, amadeus@janpol.com.pl, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of-the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here and this is one place which guarantees the memorable stay that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles €160 - 190, 20 doubles €170 - 200, 2 apartments €250 - 300). PTJHARU�FLGKDW hhhh

Andel’s D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. 012 660 00 00, fax 012 660 00 01, info@andelscracow.com, www.andelscra-cow.com. Just steps away from the train station the Andels looks set to become one of Kraków’s success stories. This is an ultra modern hotel with a sharp design and rooms fea-turing CD and DVD layers, in-house movies and light, bright colours. Q159 rooms (153 singles €210 - 240, 153 doubles €235 - 265, 6 apartments €330 - 520). PTHARUF�GKDW hhhh

Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. 012 424 34 00, fax 012 424 34 05, copernicus@hotel.com.pl, www.ho-tel.com.pl. You’ve chosen well. Few hotels in Central Europe can match the standard set by Copernicus, and it’s a firm favourite with visiting dignitaries, with guests including George W. Tastefully uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork, marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel, gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming pool housed in the medieval cellars.Q29 rooms (4 singles 800zł, 17 doubles 900 - 980zł, 4 suites 1600 - 2000zł, 4 apartments 1200 - 1300zł). PTJHARFG�KDCW hhhh

Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. 012 627 37 77, fax 012 627 37 00, rez.francuski@orbis.pl, www.orbis.pl. The kind of place where doormen and porters wear gold braiding on their uniforms. A grand effort, Francuski squeezes classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser press. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42 rooms (27 singles €158, 23 doubles €158, 15 apartments €190 - 216). Breakfast €15. PTJHARGKW hhhh

Gródek D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. 012 431 90 30, fax 012 378 93 15, grodek@donimirski.com, www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to you by the same team behind the Pugetów and Maltański, so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrat’s country retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Gródek offers an air of complete serenity. Q23 rooms (21 singles 560 - 760zł, 18 doubles 590 - 800zł, 2 apartments 890 - 930zł). PTHARULGKDW hhhh

Holiday Inn D-4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. 012 619 00 00, fax 012 619 00 05, smm@hik.krakow.pl, www.hik.krakow.pl. Nothing shor t of top-level standards cour tesy of the Holiday Inn. Easy-on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff who fuss over you and large rooms make this the reliable choice one expects. For the best price check out their web page which spor ts dail y special offers. Q154 rooms (124 singles €189, 124 doubles €209, 30 suites €219 - 279). PTJHARUF�GK hhhhh

Novotel Kraków Centrum H-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. 012 299 29 00, fax 012 299 29 99, h3372@accor.com, www.orbisonline.pl. Decorated with bright blue and orange patterns the Novotel Centrum offers all the comforts you’d associate with a big brand name. The hotel includes air-conditioning from top-to-bottom, sauna, one of Kraków’s few hotel pools and facilities fully geared towards the disabled. The upper floors feature views overlooking Wawel Castle. Q198 rooms (192 singles €175 - 215, 192 doubles €175 - 215, 6 apartments €295 - 310). Breakfast €17. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh

Pałac Bonerowski (Bonerowski Palace) C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 374 13 00, fax 012 374 13 05, re-cepcja@palacbonerowski.pl, www.palacbonerowski.pl. A masterpiece of a hotel occupying a historic property dating from the early 16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these corridors back in the 17th century. Many of the original details have been restored and retained, including gothic columns and medieval masonry and rooms come beautifully appointed with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features of note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering above, as well as the full range of top-class services. Best of all rooms come with grandstand views facing the main square, allowing you to do all your holiday snaps from the warmth of your room. Q14 rooms (10 singles 800zł, 10 doubles 950zł, 4 apart-ments 1250 - 1900zł). PTHARGKDW

Pugetów D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 432 49 50, fax 012 378 93 25, pugetow@donimirski.com, www.donimirski.com. At last Kraków can boast the attractive, boutique hotel that it deserves. No expense has been spared creating this intimate spot and your accommodation comes with embroidered bathrobes and some 200 television chan-nels to veg in front of. Rooms come with their own unique design, and names like Conrad and Bonaparte. Our favourite, the Kwiatkowski apartment, features oil paintings, bone china and soft cream fabrics. Treat yourself. Q7 rooms (3 singles 300 - 350zł, 2 doubles 410 - 460zł, 1 triple 510 - 540zł, 3 apartments 590 - 710zł). PTHARLG hhh

Qubus Hotel Kraków J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. 012 374 51 00, fax 012 374 52 00, krakow@qubushotel.com, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from the hotel’s façade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to high standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband internet as well as an ironing board to help with keeping up appearances. Unsurpris-ingly there’s a heavy business slant to this hotel, with five conference rooms to pick from, while for after-work moments take timeout in the fitness centre - complete with top floor swimming pool with views stretching over central Kraków. Q194 rooms (98 singles €165, 85 doubles €180, 10 suites €215 - 230, 1 apartment €255 - 270). PTHARU�FLGKDCW hhhh

Radisson SAS B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. 012 618 88 88, fax 012 618 88 89, reservations.krakow@radis-sonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. Over 400 paintings from the Kraków Academy of Art decorate the walls, while other trimmings include high-speed internet access, gym and ice-making machines on each floor. Choose between rooms decorated in either ‘ocean’ (turquoise shades, smooth lines) or ‘city-style’ (scarlet colours and edges). Regardless, both boast three telephone lines, heated bathroom floors and the best TV units you’ll find in Poland. Q196 rooms (196 singles €144 - 197, 196 doubles €144 - 197, 19 suites €270 - 360, 49 Business Class Room €240 - 300). Breakfast €20. PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhhh

Sheraton Kraków A-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. 012 662 10 00, fax 012 662 11 00, reservation.krakow@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/krakow. The choice of the stars. This is where the Real Madrid football team stayed back in 2004, though usually it’s wealthy tourists and corporate travellers who bustle through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling five star venture. Rooms come decorated with chequered scarlet colour schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Q232 rooms (221 singles €240 - 255, 221 doubles €260 - 275, 3 suites €315 - 335, 7 apartments €440 - 680, 1 Wawel Suite €1180). PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

Stary C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 012 384 08 08, fax 012 384 08 09, stary@hotel.com.pl, www.stary.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits inside what is sure to become regarded as one of Poland’s top hotels. Gain entry via a huge hardwood door that automatically swings open, James Bond-style. Occupying a former aristocratic residence many of the original details have been retained, to go alongside chic touches such as a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation comes with bathrooms fitted with Italian marble, and sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts. A subterranean pool can be found in the cellars, while perched on top of the hotel is a rooftop bar with views staring onto the main square. Q53 rooms (8 singles 800zł, 34 doubles 900zł, 4 suites 1140zł, 6 apartments 1520 - 1900zł, 1 Presi-dential Suite 2280zł). PTJHARFGKDCW hhhhh

UpmarketArt Hotel Niebieski H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. 012 431 18 58, fax 012 431 18 28, hotelniebieski@gmail.com, www.niebieski.com.pl. One of the top hotels in town, and the favoured stamping ground of best selling author/historian Norman Davies. Small details count, and there’s plenty at the ‘Blue Hotel’: from heated bathroom floors to high-speed internet. Riverside location in a quiet corner of Kraków. Q13 rooms (12 singles 340zł, 12 doubles 380zł, 1 suite 470 - 560zł). THAULGKW hhh

Atrium C-1, ul. Krzywa 7, tel. 012 430 02 03, fax 012 430 01 96, hotelatrium@hotelatrium.pl, www.hotela-trium.com.pl. Clean, spacious rooms furnished in a subtle, Scandinavian fashion. The well-equipped conference room can fit up to 70 people and suites are equipped with kitch-enettes, living room and two beds. Q52 rooms (42 singles €100 - 110, 39 doubles €120, 8 triples €135, 2 apartments €170). PTHAULGKW hhh

Cracovia H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. 012 424 56 00, fax 012 421 95 86, rez.cracovia@orbis.pl, www.orbis.pl. A massive concrete facade hides an interior that resembles an Austin Powers set. Furnishings are average and the bathrooms can be cramped, though all the expectations of international hotel service will be met. Its vast size makes

5 WHERE TO STAY 6WHERE TO STAY

August - September 2008Instant Kraków

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant C Swimming pool

D Sauna W Wi-Fi

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it a popular choice for busloads of tourists. Q314 rooms (115 singles 257zł, 191 doubles 329 - 379zł, 8 apartments 499 - 799zł). OTHARUGKW hhh

Crown Piast Hotel & Park ul. Radzikowskiego 109 (Bronowice), tel. 012 683 26 00, fax 012 683 26 65, biuro@hotelpiast.pl, www.hotelpiast.pl. Pleasant ac-commodation with floral-patterned duvets, good bathrooms and all the trifling extras like satellite TV. Outside enjoy land-scaped gardens complete with rare plants, the occasional peacock and a tavern. Q180 rooms (176 singles €70 - 180, 176 doubles €70 - 180, 4 apartments €160 - 360). PTHARUFGKD hhhhh

Matejko I-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. 012 422 47 37, fax 012 422 47 80, biuro@matejkohotel.pl, www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored tenement building. Swish rooms come with rich colours and modern trappings, offering a fine bal-ance between past and present. Fully air-conditioned throughout, and with the full set of business facilities to boot. Q48 rooms (45 singles 360 - 400zł, 42 doubles 420zł, 2 triples 500zł, 3 apart-ments 600zł). PTHARULGKD hhh

Novotel Kraków Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11, tel. 012 622 64 00, fax 012 622 64 05, nov.bronowice@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. With over 300 rooms under their roof this is one of Kraków’s larger hotels, and as such primed for large conferences and tour groups casting a glance at the higher end of the hotel market. Ac-commodation touts a clean and bright design, incorporating simple colours with modern facilities. Start the day with a few lengths in the swimming pool, and finish it with late night cocktails in their bar. Q305 rooms (304 singles €81 - 119, 304 doubles €81 - 119, 1 apartment €200). Breakfast €12. POTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh

Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. 012 384 00 00, fax 012 384 00 01, recepcja@hotelrubinstein.com, www.hotelrubinstein.com. It’s no longer possible to refer to Kaz-imierz as Kraków’s upcoming district. Kazimierz has well and truly arrived, and this new star is the proof. In keeping with spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and all are treated to modern finishes that include gleaming bathrooms, air conditioning and satellite TV. Situated right in the thick of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q27 rooms (4 singles 640zł, 18 doubles 700zł, 5 apartments 1000 - 1400zł). PTHARUFGKDW hhhh

Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. 012 422 76 86, fax 012 422 79 34, recepcja@senacki.krakow.pl, www.sen-acki.krakow.pl. A beautifully renovated historic building is the setting for this high-standard hotel. Well-appointed rooms include easy colour schemes and great views of old Kraków. Planted between Wawel and Old Town Square. Q20 rooms (4 singles €95 - 105, 13 doubles €130 - 140, 1 triple €135 - 145, 2 apartments €150 - 160). PTHAUGKW hhh

Mid-rangeAbel E-6, ul. Józefa 30, tel. 012 411 87 36, fax 012 411 94 90, hotelabel@hotelabel.pl, www.hotelabel.pl. A charis-matic hotel with eccentric art and assorted bric-a-brac in a lobby that also comes with piles of tourism pamphlets to peruse. The warm welcome supplied by the receptionists is similar to the ones found in family-run enterprises, and the set of wooden stairs leads guests to rooms primly furnished with modern fittings and light colours. One of the best deals in the area. Q14 rooms (3 singles 180zł, 8 doubles 250zł, 3 triples 270zł). AG

Ascot E-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. 012 384 06 06, fax 012 384 06 07, rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl, www.ascothotel.pl. A modern front shields a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints of classic works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet access inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come with reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining white bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given in Poland. Q49 rooms (4 singles €95, 36 doubles €120, 7 triples €135, 2 quads €160). PTHAULGKW hhh

Astoria E-6, ul. Józefa 24, tel. 012 432 50 10, fax 012 432 50 20, biuro@astoriahotel.pl, www.astoriahotel.pl. The large rooms are all air-conditioned, bright, and painted fresh yellow. The hotel restaurant serves Polish and interna-tional dishes and is open for passers-by too. Our favourite detail: the huge buttons in the elevator. Q33 rooms (30 singles 340zł, 30 doubles 420zł, 1 triple 510zł, 2 apartments 500zł). PTHARUGKD hhh

Benefis A-6, ul. Barska 2, tel. 012 252 07 10, fax 012 252 07 12, benef is@hotelbenef is.pl, www.hotelbenefis.pl. A decent deal with bright, sunny rooms that reflect the age of the hotel - brand new. Of note is the studio apartment, set at the top of the building complete with slanted skylight and separate lounge area.Q15 rooms (9 singles 280zł, 9 doubles 300zł, 6 suites 350zł). RUG hhh

Campanile D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. 012 424 26 00, fax 012 424 26 01, krakow@campanile.com.pl, www.campanile.com.pl. The bright rooms come decorated in the Campanile flagship colours of cream and green, and feature satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of the top-floor quarters that overlook the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles 339zł, 105 doubles 339zł, 1 apartment 520zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTJHARUGKW hh

Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. 012 299 00 00, fax 012 299 00 01, info@chopinhotel.pl, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern building offering clean-cut, functional accommodation and a western attitude to service. Free wireless internet access for guests, as well as regular promotions to keep an eye out for. Recent renovations have seen all the rooms upgraded. Q220 rooms (119 singles €90 - 102, 119 doubles €102 - 112, 1 apartment €145). PTHARUFLGKW hhh

Ibis Kraków Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. 012 299 33 00, fax 012 299 33 33, h3710@accor.com, www.ibishotel.com. You know what to expect with the Ibis brand. While not an adventurous choice the guys behind the French chain show an unflagging commitment to maintaining international standards and high-grade service. Spotless furnishings and a central location add to the appeal and rooms have recently been fully renovated. Q175 rooms (175 singles 269 - 299zł, 175 doubles 269 - 299zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTJA6ULGKW hh

Maltański B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. 012 431 00 10, fax 012 378 93 12, maltanski@donimirski.com, www.donimirski.com. Enter the lobby, replete with chequered tiles and fireplace, and you’ll get a preview of the class that lies behind the façade. Rooms come with fluffy robes on the beds, cream colour schemes and classic furnish-ings. Business service on offer include conference facilities, translation services and organizing temporary office space. Q16 rooms (16 singles 390 - 480zł, 14 doubles 420 - 510zł). THARULGK hhh

Start H-5, ul. Kapelanka 60, tel. 012 269 22 10, fax 012 269 04 05, rezerwacje@hotelstart.com.pl, www.hotelstart.com.pl. A recent renovation to this 1980’s block has raised the star-rating of this hotel to 2-stars and Start now offer clean, comfortable and very affordable accommodation a 10-minute taxi ride away from the city centre. TV and en-suite bathrooms throughout as well as on-site conference facilities and restaurant are available. Q66 rooms (42 singles 180zł, 42 doubles 200zł, 14 triples 270zł, 9 quads 320zł, 2 apartments 350zł). Breakfast 15zł. THAUK hh

ApartmentsAffinity Flats B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. 012 428 72 00, fax 012 428 72 01, info@affinityflats.com, www.affinityflats.com. Over 18 apartments to choose from across Kraków, including a riverside location with views staring right onto Wawel Castle. If you’re looking for something directly in town then they’ve got flats right in the centre of old town, or our favourite, a series of Italian-themed apartments on Karmelicka; situated inside a fully restored 19th century townhouse, accommodation comes with underfloor heating in the bathrooms, wifi access, air-conditioning and 24hr security. A modern aesthetic prevails with the use of clever colour coordination and top-of-the-range fittings. Some great individual touches complement the rooms, including a bay window in the Capri apartment, and an original aga dating from 1890 in the Roma suite. Airport pickup and other tourist services also organized. Q18 rooms (18 apartments €75 - 200). Breakfast €6. PTJHARGKW hhhh

Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel./fax 012 431 00 26, info@apartmentskrakow.eu, www.apartmentskrakow.eu. Several locations around the historic centre - including Floriańska and Grodzka - with accommoda-tion fitting upto six people. All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, cable TV and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q18 rooms (18 apartments 220 - 440zł). Breakfast 20zł. TJALGW

Kraków City Apartments D-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel./fax 012 431 00 41, info@krakowapartments.info, www.krakowapartments.info. An old town location, though ac-commodation comes overlooking a courtyard, guaranteeing a good nights rest. Lift access means there’s no lugging bags up stairs, and apartments come with modern furnishings, living room and kitchen. Most can handle four guests, with one apartment sleeping up to seven guests. Q8 rooms (8 apartments 200 - 640zł). Breakfast 20zł. TARLG

Old Town Apartments B-3, ul. Gołębia 2/3b, tel. 012 421 42 01, fax 012 430 07 43, krakow@bookaa.net, www.warsawshotel.com. Warsaw-based agency renting fully equipped apartments in Cracow’s Old Town. Everything from efficient studios to 180m2 4-bedroom apartments convenient for 10 guests. Cheaper rates for longer stays. Q63 rooms (63 apartments €50 - 200). Breakfast €5. TA6GW

Redbrick D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. 012 628 66 00, fax 012 430 19 19, rezerwacja@redbrick.pl, www.redbrick.pl. Named after the renovated 19th century red brick building that houses this magnificent set of apartments. These are superb lodgings and inspite of the historical surrounds ac-commodation touts all the trappings of the modern world; from 32 inch televisions to fully fitted modern kitchens. Those looking to splash out should consider booking the two level

7 WHERE TO STAY 8WHERE TO STAY

August - September 2008Instant Kraków

Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. 012 422 10 44, fax 012 422 13 89, rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by Stanisław Wyspianski over the staircase is the first thing to catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You might not get all new amenities, you do get 150-year-old tradition. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42 rooms (7 singles 380zł, 24 doubles 450zł, 7 triples 540zł, 2 quads 630zł, 2 apartments 640zł). PTJHAKW hhh

Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. 012 422 12 33, fax 012 422 16 21, rezerwacja@hotel-polonia.com.pl, www.hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917 this grand corner structure catches the eye the moment you leave the train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual welcome and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in a mock 19th century style that help evoke Kraków’s golden years. Q62 rooms (10 singles 117 - 295zł, 50 doubles 155 - 360zł, 3 apartments 526zł). JHAKW hhh

Royal C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. 012 421 35 00, fax 012 421 58 57, royal@holele21.pl, www.royal.com.pl. A prime location in Planty Park is the setting for this classic 19th century affair. Huge by Kraków standards, this hotel has a basic one star section, as well as a fully renovated two-star section featuring spotless bathrooms and fittings. Q110 rooms (35 singles 250 - 300zł, 39 doubles 330 - 390zł, 12 triples 450 - 510zł, 13 quads 570 - 630zł, 4 suites 460 - 570zł, 12 apartments 650zł). TJHARUK hh

Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. 012 269 10 00, fax 012 269 20 30, ruczaj@ruczajhotel.com.pl, www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically stylish building in a resi-dential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel for those willing to taxi into town. All rooms boast unique balconies and furnishings with an individual touch. Q45 rooms (8 singles 220zł, 17 doubles 300zł, 12 triples 380zł, 4 quads 460zł, 4 apartments 410zł). PTYHAUGKDW hhh

System PREMIUM J-1, Al. 29 listopada 189, tel. 012 614 48 00, fax 012 634 05 08, premium.krk@hotelsystem.pl, www.hotelsystem.pl. A high-standard modern hotel featuring that great rarity in Kraków - a good swimming pool. That aside, guests can expect comfortable rooms fitted with neutral colour schemes, safe and cable TV. In an added bonus, each room comes complete with its own PC and free internet access. Q162 rooms (29 singles 229zł, 131 doubles 229zł, 2 apartments 329zł). Breakfast 33zł. THARUFGKDCW

Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. 012 424 13 00, fax 012 424 13 33, hotel@hotelwawel.pl, www.hotelwawel.pl. Sweeping renovations have seen the Wawel transformed into one of top mid-range options in the city. Set inside a historic townhouse, the 19th century building still has several secessionist touches, as well as a courtyard which will have you wishing it was summer all year round. The huge rooms come decorated with patterned duvets and beige and wood finishes. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q39 rooms (36 singles 330 - 380zł, 27 doubles 460zł, 3 apart-ments 520 - 580zł). PJHALKDW hhh

BudgetBasztowa Guestrooms D-2, ul. Basztowa 24, tel. 012 429 51 81, fax 012 422 16 21, basztowa@room.krakow.pl, www.hotelsinkrakow.pl. Neat rooms feature parquet floors and a classic design accentuated by the use of dark woods and oil paintings. Q24 rooms (22 singles 195zł, 22 doubles 195zł, 2 triples 260zł). Breakfast 18zł. JA

apartment, equipped to host as many as six people. The customer is king here and Redbrick can provide transport to and from the airport, as well as shopping services so all that you need is already sitting on the shelves upon your arrival. Q16 rooms (16 apartments 350 - 550zł). Breakfast 25zł. THARGK

Hostels & DormsGreg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. 012 422 41 00, info@gregtomhostel.com, www.gregtomhostel.com. A top hostel with a second location on ul. Warszawska 16/5. Both offer internet, DVD player and bike rental, as well as hostel standards such as free laundry, kitchen and linen. Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest boon here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds as possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern furnishings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Q11 rooms (6 doubles 160zł, 3 quads 240zł). 29 dorm beds 50-60zł per person. AGW

Nathan’s Villa Hostel C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1, tel./fax 012 422 35 45, krakow@nathansvilla.com, www.nathansvilla.com. Kraków’s original hostel. There’s been a million copycats since, but none do it better. That’s partly down to Nathan, a man who takes the happiness of his guests seriously - even if it that means drinking till dawn with them. There’s a bit of a reputation for revelry here, and you’ll find the party in the basement where a network of chambers house a bar, pool table and even a mini-cinema. But this is more than just a hedonists hostel, as proved by the top-notch conditions of dorms and bathrooms. Capacity is constantly increasing here, and more ensuite privates have been added to cater for the higher-class of backpacker. And best of all, with summer in swing, there’s barbecues each night, with the proceedings overseen by none other than The Sausage Man. Q21 rooms (4 singles 160 - 180zł, 4 doubles 160 - 180zł). 118 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. JAGW

The Secret Garden Hostel & Pension D-7, ul. Skawińska 7, tel./fax 012 430 54 45, info@thesecret-garden.pl, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Gone are the days when budget lodgers would cramp into off-season student dorms or take their chances in seedy hotels. The Secret Garden is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and it’s also one of the best. Certainly it’s colourful, first impressions will leave you asking just how many tins of paint were used in creating this project. Quarters come with names that leave you in no doubt what colours to expect on opening the door: from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms are neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrough iron furnish-ings and coluorful bed spreads. The common room is blissful violet with low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test, while elsewhere this pension stroke hostel boasts laundry services, free internet access and a garden for barbecues. Q18 rooms (11 singles 90zł, 11 doubles 140zł, 4 triples 180zł). 14 dorm beds 50-55zł per person. TAUGW

Out of townOrient ul. Sołtysowska 25a (Czyżyny), tel. 012 646 91 00, fax 012 646 92 02, rezerwacja@hotelorient.pl, www.hotelorient.pl. This brand new brick and aquamarine hotel has managed, impressively, to meld top-notch business facilities with unique style. All the amenities you could ask for in addition to original artwork in all the rooms, and rooms for the disabled. Travel to town with taxis from the stand outside the hotel. Q58 rooms (56 singles 360zł, 56 doubles 420zł, 3 suites 550zł). PTHARUFLKDC hhhh

La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. 012 422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. The decent courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, where good French food is served by well-trained staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns out classics such as medallions of veal with chanterelle mushrooms, or fresh foie gras with port and armagnac. The set tasting menus are good value at 65zł. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-54zł). PTAUBX

FusionEnso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www.karmelicka52.com. A completely un-Krakowian effort with a futuristic design that relies on clever lighting, a spacious set up and a slick atmosphere more commonly associated with the lounge bars of the capital. By day the menu is as adventurous as any you’ll come across in Kraków with asian styled fusion offerings picked at by a chic crowd. The darker it gets the more this place melts into a pre-club spot, with Bambi girls sipping expert cocktails. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (18-50zł). PTAUBXSW

HungarianDeli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. 012 430 64 04, www.delibar.pl. A bright modern eatery whose orange walls come decorated with blow-up photos of paprika and goulash. It doesn’t take a brainbox to work out what’s the order of the day here, this place is Hungarian through and through, and you’ll find a stack of red hot, spicy dishes on the list here. And it’s not just the bloodthirsty who’re catered for here, non-carnivores get a fair choice of fish, salads and soups to test. Best of all, the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (8-25zł). TGBS

InternationalA1 B-3, ul. Św. Anny 6, tel. 012 421 01 44. Situated within dancing distance of the Rynek this newbie was literally just opening their doors as we hit the printing press, and all we can say so far is they’ll be offering up a mix of Mediterranean dishes and sushi. Full review on it’s way.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-89zł). PTAEBXSW

Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel), tel. 012 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.pl. Classy staff serve Polish classics taken to new heights in sumptuous surroundings. In other words, a treat. Try the classic żurek soup - we do not think we have ever tatsed better - before moving on to the superb roast pork with fried sauerkraut and potato puree: you will wonder how such simple flavours can be so rich. But that is the whole point of Amadeus: simplicity and class win over every time. Recommended most heartedly. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-99zł). PTYAUEX

Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16. An attractive modern space that has created plenty of ripples with a drinks menu that is second to none - 100 vodkas says it all. But it’s not just about drinking, and there’s a menu to peruse that includes a decent spread of salad, grilled salmon and even fried ice cream. This place could well prove to be the hit of the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (17-38zł). PAXSW

Cul-De-Sac D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4 (Gródek Hotel), tel. 012 431 20 41, www.donimirski.com. Occupying a space inside the Hotel Gródek Cul de Sac is the definitive dining ex-perience. The menu is short and concise, and features beauti-fully presented delicacies like veal cutlets served with mint. A Kraków highlight and defnitely a place for romancing.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (56-79zł). PTJAUGBSW

9 RESTAURANTS

Instant Kraków

With the development of the market in Krakow, the number and choice of places to eat has become pretty wide. That doesn’t mean to say that it is all good. Ethnic cuisines are generalised brutalised in an attempt to make them acceptable to Polish palates. The figures we quote in brackets are the cheapest and dearest main courses on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working.

AmericanSomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of Uncle Sam’s favourites with meals regularly concluding with deft beneath-the-table manoeuvres to loosen the belt. As the rock memorabilia and diner décor suggests, this place doesn’t take itself as seriously as most hotel eateries, and the results are evident in some seriously lively nights; plasma screens relay all the big fixtures, while live bands frequently encourage the visiting business droids to lose both ties and inhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (28-80zł). PTAUBXS

BagelsBagelmama D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. 012 431 19 42, www.bagelmama.com. It’s hard to call Bagelmama a restaurant, this is after all essentially no more than an open kitchen with a couple of tables thrown in on the customer side. Your reason for dropping in are the best bagels in Po-land, served up by the American exile Nava, a man whose fans include John McEnroe. Cinnamon, poppy seed and garlic bagels come with toppings that range from tuna to curry, and there’s also an expanded menu featuring extras like tortilla wraps, salads and burritos. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (6-15zł). GS

FrenchCyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel. 012 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl. No foolhardy attempts at foreign cuisine here, just top class food in a top class atmosphere. Kraków’s finest French restaurant is a magnificent white tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras and the occasional experimental hit. Set against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries and located in a classic medieval cellar, if you’re going to push the boat out while you’re in town, there are few better places to push it than here, and that’s a fact recognized by none other than the Michelin Guide. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (44-80zł). TAREBXS

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

E Live music S Take away

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

J Old Town location 6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

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10RESTAURANTS

August - September 2008

The Olive A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel. 012 662 16 80, www.sheraton.com/krakow. Top class Mediterranean dishes served inside the imperial environs of the Sheraton. The glass roof makes it possible to dine under the stars while the foliage dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere. The best ingredients money can buy are complemented by graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining at i ts best. Q Open 06:30 -10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (47-89zł). PTAUEXW

The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. 012 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A sen-sor y delight wi th crimson flourishes, feather y boas and gil t picture frames providing an air of Parisien decadence. A pri vate members area and a pair of black-sui ted door police add an air of exclusivi ty while the li ve jazz music played in the background is wor th the visi t alone. The menu is high-end European, and brought to you by a busy team of wai tresses dressing in evening wear. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (25-78z ł). PAEBXW

ItalianAl Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. 012 430 04 18, www.aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room with a cream and modern look. This is where the local sophisticates have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by Sardinian cuisine prepared by the imported chef. Authenticity is topped off by the ingredients, most of which come shipped direct from I tal y. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-46zł). PTAUBSW

Milk & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson SAS Hotel), tel. 012 618 88 55, www.radissonsas.com. Two things bring us back to Milk & Co time and time again: the first is the lunchtime buffet, a bargian at 69zł give that you get to choose from some superb food and that you can always bank on meeting a familiar face tucking inot his or her smoked salmon. Secondly, the Surf & Turf extravaganza on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is - at 120zł - Krakow’s best kept secret. Enjoy giant praws alongside tender juicy steaks and ribs and to hell with the calories. No wonder reservations are essential. And no, the fish in the tanks are not part of the buffet.Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (23-88zł). PTAUEGSW

Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. 012 424 33 81, www.hotel.com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under a glass-covered atrium in the Pod Różą hotel. A piano sits on a raised platform, and higher up there’s a balcony with tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a veritable list of birds and forest animals, including a rather tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then so are the standards. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (69-89zł). PTJAESW

Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 374 13 10, www.podwinogronami.pl. There are fine restaurants in Kraków, and then there is this place. Located in the gorgeous Pałac Bonerowski hotel, this is a classy dining room that makes the prefect location for romantic evenings out, business lunches or sheer culinary pleasure-fests. Try to get here at the weekend: from Thursday to Sunday there is a special fish menu, which - despite all apperances and assumptions - is incredibly well priced. Sea bass with artichokes a crack-ing treat at 49zł. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (29-89zł). PTAUBXSW

San Sebastian Café D-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 25, tel. 012 429 24 76, www.sansebastian.pl. Impresses each time we visit, and definitely one of the best meals in Kraków. A clean wooden décor and dusky lighting make it a good venue to enjoy a glass of wine in their café section, before moving onto their dining room to check out their Mediterranean menu. The service is fun and flir ty, and though the portions can verge on scanty the meals are generally highly commended - try the beef fillet in mushroom sauce. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (21-70zł). PTABSW

Senacka C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, (Senacki Hotel), tel. 012 421 11 61, www.senacki.krakow.pl. Situated in the hotel of the same name this restaurant comes complete with chandeliers and timber-beamed ceilings, while the kitchen staff demonstrate an unflagging commitment to excellence. The menu alternates between Polish and international stan-dards, and never fails. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-60zł). PTAUBSW

Szara (Grey) C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. 012 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which seems to draw most tourists at least once during their stay. Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of complete elegance make i t a great venue for your special ‘last night meal’, and the food rarel y disap-points. Choose from dishes like salmon in teriyaki sauce in what has come to be known as one of the hotspots of Kraków’s culinary stage. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (37-79zł). PTAUBSW

Polish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for foreigners. While in other civilised countries it’s normal to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even thank you in English, is the sign that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very expensive. We have heard instances of a customer leaving a 200zł note for an 80zł meal and then having to chase down the cheeky wait-ress to ask for the change. And while this is an extreme case, this happens far more often that you’d expect. To put things into context, even though salaries have risen for wait staff in the last couple of years thanks to a severe lack of supply, a typical waiter/waitress would be receiving around 10-15zł per hour. The waitress above assumed that the client wanted to leave a whole day’s salary. Nice work if you can get it.What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to a) make you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get anything back b) conveniently disappear having pocketed your change or c) play the fool and suggest that it is your fault. We suggest that you only say thank you if you are happy for the wait staff to keep the change. Otherwise we advise you to use the word ‘proszę’ only when handing back the bill and the payment. One final tip and this is to demonstrate we are not completely anti wait staff. If you add a tip to your credit card payment the wait-staff have to pay tax on it. Anything that you give in cash probably isn’t declared. So if you do receive good service we urge you to reward it and to make a tip in the form of cash.

No thank you

JapaneseEdo Sushi D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 3, tel. 012 422 24 24, www.edosushi.pl. Kraków’s best sushi inside a calm envi-ronment filled with taped bird songs and rice-paper panels. The menu is huge, the raw fish excellent, and the prices a fraction of what they should be. Check out the private room; a traditional shoes off experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (39-99zł). PAUBXSW

Sushi Bar Sakana C-2, ul. Sławkowska 5-7, tel. 012 429 30 86, www.sakana.pl. Sushi authorities who’ve found themselves journeying around Poland will already be familiar with the Sakana brand. With outlets in Poznań, Wrocław and Warsaw, opening in Kraków was always the next step, and the team at Sakana have recreated exactly what you’ll find in their sister restaurants; excellent fresh sushi served up in a bamboo clad interior decorated sparingly with rice paper panels and lanterns. Enjoy a cleansing miso soup, or opt for expertly prepared sets of Californian maki made by staff clearly schooled in the delicate art of Japanese culinary mas-tery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł). PTAUGSW

MediterraneanIl Fresco H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Hotel), tel. 012 431 18 58, www.ilfresco.krakow.pl. The showpiece res-taurant of the Hotel Niebieski, though worth exploration even if you’re not lodging upstairs. Find inventive Mediterranean dishes artistically presented, and served in a background that frequently resounds to the sound of live music. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (25-59zł). PTAUGBSW

PolishBrzozowy Gaj J-3, ul. Brzozowa 18, tel. 012 292 33 17, www.brzozowygaj.pl. Decorated in the log-cutters style this venue is a preview shot of Zakopane life - here it’s all chunky tables and ceramic trinkets bought from the dodgy tourist stalls you’d usually avoid. The menu is meat heavy, and you can expect anything that ever lived on a farm to be hacked up and presented before you. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł). PTAIXS

Chłopskie Jadło C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3, tel. 012 429 51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. A usually reliable romp through the glories of Polish country cooking. The menu is a labyrinth of peasant dishes, with a vast choice of what nomrally amounts to enormous helpings of meat and potatoes, and compli-mentary lard to start your meal. Bright blue interiors come decorated with jars and pickles and strings of sausages, and staff are kitted out like saucy country wenches. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (13-38zł). PTAXS

Kawaleria Szarża Smaku (Cavalery) B-3, ul. Gołębia 4, tel. 012 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl. Three vaulted rooms decorated with an equine motif - paint-ings of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and hunting trophies - as well as an atmospheric whitewashed courtyard decorated featuring a stone fireplace and potted shrubbery. The menu is a strong review of upmarket Polish dishes with wild boar and suchlike making appearances. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (27-69zł). TYAUBXSW

Miód Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. 012 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Consis-tently excellent meals have seen Miod Malina establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book

11 RESTAURANTS

August - September 2008Instant Kraków

12RESTAURANTS

ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant comes with raspberries painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere to this place, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low making a visit here not just recom-mended but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-56zł). PTABXS

Pod Krzyżykiem (Under the Cross) C-3, Rynek Główny 39, tel. 012 433 70 10, www.podkrzyzykiem.com. Brimming with bizarre furnishings, including a section of glass flooring, the overall effect isn’t unlike climbing inside a giant Dali painting; the strange sculptures and stained glass are a great conversation point if you’re on a tricky first date. Service is young and flawless, while the revamped menu offers top-calibre local and European dishes beautifully presented. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (42-59zł). PTABXS

Starka D-6, ul. Józefa 14, tel. 012 430 65 38, www.starka.com.pl. The vodka concoctions here are fabulous, but don’t dare get ruined on them before you experience the restaurant out back - schoolboy error. Scarlet walls choc-a-block with black and white etchings provide a cool atmosphere to drop back into the leather seating before diving into a menu filled with perfectly prepared Polish dishes.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (23-43zł). PTAXSW

Wesele C-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. 012 422 74 60. If you’re a fan of Miod Malina, and let’s face it, who isn’t, then we’ve got some good news for you. Namely the opening of Wesele, a project brought to you by the

same gang behind MM. If your Polish is as good as your Chinese then the first thing you’ll need to know is what the name means - it’s ‘wedding’, and the interiors are a dead giveaway, filled with ribbons, flowers and candles. It’s an impressive venue alright, and with all the clinking glasses and smiley people it doesn’t take much vision to imagine you actually have gate crashed a wedding. It’s a super venue, and the menu doesn’t come second fiddle. This is classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast is fabulous.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (18-64zł). PTAUGBSW

Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. 012 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influ-ence the way the globe spins. A set of wooden stairs lead to a series of imposing rooms decked out with tapestries and plantlife while a seriously high-end menu includes stur-geon, deer and lamb. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (30-125zł). PTABXSW

VegetarianVega D-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 7, tel. 012 422 34 94, www.vegarestauracja.com.pl. Immediately east of the old town with a view of the Planty through the large windows, arguably Kraków’s best strictly vegetarian restaurant is an exceedingly feminine affair. A somewhat sombre atmosphere is lifted a little with the addition of hundreds of dried flowers, and the food, when it arrives, is actually rather good. If you’re not a fan of what rabbits like to eat, check out the better than average salad bar. Also at ul. Krupnicza 22 (A-2) QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (8-12zł). TAGS

Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wiślna 5/10, tel. 012 421 25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. The most exci ting develop-ment Kraków’s foodie scene has witnessed for quite some time. I talian owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour combinations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan. Half restaurant, hal f lounge bar, the beautifully presented dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Already earning rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any ‘must visit’ list you may be keeping. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (25-56zł). PTAXS

Corleone C-4, ul. Poselska 19, tel. 012 429 51 26, www.corleone.krakow.pl. Yellowing vaulted walls cluttered with pictures and wine bottles cast a warm glow on this effort, making it a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of the tourist nearby tourist trail. The menu waltzes through the best of Italian cooking, with the lamb cutlets winning particular praise from this reviewer. Italian cuisine has exported effort-lessly to Kraków, and this is one of the highlights. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-58zł). TAEBXSW

Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 429 51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. The cornerstones of Italian cooking served inside an interior redolent of a basic neighbourhood trattoria. The pizza is good, but if you want to go beyond that then the grilled sirloin comes recommended, while the panna cotta makes for a good conclusion. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-38zł). PTAUBXSW

Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. 012 430 04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find Krakow’s best pizza on a street that’s exploded into life of late. The vast range of pizzas are dispatched from a traditional wood fired oven and the choice of numerous other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia is more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes for a cool backdrop for casual dining, and their growing army of regulars are testament to Mamma Mia’s growing reputation. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14-40zł). PTAUGBS

Pizzeria Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. 012 292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This new venture wins our gold gong for Kraków’s best pizza, a sentiment shared by pretty much anyone whose come into contact with this place. Either do your dining in their knockout back garden, or take to a dusky lit dining room complete with log fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously experimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds and avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to cover numerous other Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (16-40zł). TABS

Trattoria Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1 (Bonerowski Palace Hotel), tel. 012 374 13 10, www.podwinogronami.pl. Dine under scrubbed vaulted ceilings in what is sure to become known as some of the best Italian food in the city. Upmarket, without being over-the-top in style and formality, this place is pleasing enough on the eye. Head chef Lorenzo has been imported from Italy, and you can trust him to give you your moneys worth. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (16-49zł). PTAUBXSW

Trattoria Soprano B-3, ul. Św. Anny 7, tel. 012 422 51 95, www.trattoriasoprano.pl. Warm glowing colours and a good clutter of plants and ceramics generate plenty of atmosphere, while the chef does the rest. Pretty good, both in quality and price. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (32-61zł). PTAXS

We can help you to arrange all kinds of transport in Kraków and within the whole of Poland and Europe, starting with a wide range of 40 car models. Flexibility, competitive prices and simple rental conditions are combined with professional and helpful assistance to guarantee that we fully fulfill your needs.

Our vast car rental database in Kraków enables you to hire the perfect car for your stay in Poland. We are able to offer a number of different cars at optimal rates. Even if your chosen model is unavailable, we will find you a similar option at a com-parable price. What’s more, the offer covers both automatic and manual transmission models. Your car can be delivered to the airport, your hotel or to any other place in Kraków which is extremely convenient, especially if you are visiting the city for the first time. We are also flexible with regards to the drop-off point once you are finished with the vehicle. To ensure peace of mind, we provide you with transparent rental conditions and co-operate only with trustworthy car rental suppliers in Kraków and other Polish towns.

TYPICAL CAR RENTAL PRICES/ DAY: Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5L: 33 – 43 EUROpel Astra Classic III 1.6L: 51 – 83 EURChrysler Voyager 3.3L: 83 – 139 EUR

If you do not wish to be a driver of your rented car, you could consider the offer of transfers and chauffeured limousines at a range of prices. These offer particular comfort and con-venience if you need transportation to and from the airport to

the hotel or any other destination in Kraków, Poland or abroad. Among the models offered are economy and business options as well as beautiful, classic cars. English-speaking drivers are available to add to the comfort of service and we also can accommodate special requests.

Cars are a convenient form of transport, but we know that sometimes other forms are more appropriate. If you need to travel with a larger group, you can take coaches and mini-buses into consideration. We provide luxury, air-conditioned models and safe budget options if you want to find the lowest possible cost.

If you need really fast travel in Poland or Europe, we have a very special offer where we can organise private air taxi flights tailored to your needs.

Feel free to contact us and we will be happy to help you with any of your transportation arrangements in Kraków or throughout. Don’t hesitate to ask about particular details and requirements – we are here to find the best offer for you. To contact us email us at iyp@staypoland.com or call our reservation centre on +48 - 22 351 22 35.

CAR HIRE & TRANSPORT SERVICES IN KRAKÓW

Old St. Nick’s Pub C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1 (Nathan’s Villa Hostel), tel. 012 422 35 45, www.nathansvilla.com. The flagship bar of Nathan’s Villa Hostel, so expect crowds of backpackers drinking with debauched abandon and the raucous atmosphere you’d expect when people don’t have to work the next day. Lucky buggers. Split into four rooms including a billiard room, separate smoking lounge and a main bar area, which frequently hosts live music and impromptu acts of depravity. No problem mingling, and the quiz nights on Monday and Thursday attract a number of lo-cal expats taking advantage of the cut-price beer. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PUBX

Paparazzi D-3, ul. Mikołajska 9, tel. 012 429 45 97, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Kraków cocktail culture started here. This long, narrow space opens up at the back with a decent room featuring whirring fans and pics of celebs practicing their pout. The cocktail list is second to none and this remains first choice for anyone looking to clinch deals over invigorating concoctions fixed by a team of specialists. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. From September Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PAW

Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. You may remember Pod Papugami as an underground labyrinth filled with foggy alcoves and dark tunnels. Well they’ve now ex-panded, taking control of the ground floor space and doubling their capacity. They’ve done a good job on the refurb, with all the requisite carved wood, blackened pots and even a set of 19th century golf clubs and this is nothing less than the full diddly-di experience - right down to those posters of a toucan with a pint of black stuff balanced on his beak. The Guinness here stands alongside the best, while a healthy smattering of plasma screens mean there’s no chance of putting your neck out while craning over a tall bloke for a view of the game. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUE

QUBE A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel. 012 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow. Beautiful waitresses glide around delivering cocktails fixed by expert bar staff. Found inside the Sheraton’s showpiece atrium, QUBE’s claim to fame is over 200 brands of vodka, as well as a genius resident pianist. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAUEW

SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow. Gaining in popularity, SPE have generated a name for live sport, live bands and a quality menu that steers towards the Tex-Mex end of the spectrum. The list of world beers goes above and beyond the usual choice of local liquids, and the interior is a combo of Yank road signs and pics of rock’n’roll heroes. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAUBX

CasinosCasinos Poland F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11 (Novotel Kraków Bronowice Hotel), tel. 012 636 08 07, www.casinospoland.pl. THE casino in Krakow can be found in the Novotel Bronowice and features 7 American Roulette, 3 Black Jack and 3 Casino Poland Poker tables for you to make or lose your fortune on. A bar and 30 slots also feature. QOpen 11:00 - 08:00.

13 NIGHTLIFE 14NIGHTLIFE

August - September 2008Instant Kraków

If you believe urban legend Kraków has the highest density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz. It’s been fun testing them out, now it’s your turn. In spite of high tourism, prices remain low. Expect to pay around 5zł for a large beer. The opening hours we list are flexible, basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring.

Bars & PubsAloha Café D-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel. 012 421 25 89, www.alohacafe.pl. Kraków’s only Hawaiian pub features a drinks list with David Hasselhoff on the front, seashells under glass flooring and walls adorned with photos of palm lined beaches. This is as wacky as drinking in Kraków gets, and best of all they plan on installing telephones on each table - meaning you get the chance to call that tasty girl winking at you. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. AW

Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16. Split into two rooms sepa-rated by heavy wooden doors Baroque is a sharp and modern space that mixes in the new with the old. It looks attractive enough, but there’s one reason alone to be visiting this Godsend, and that’s the presence of cocktails that rate as some of the best in the city. Choose from knockout creations like the Polski Spring Punch, or get your head down and do your best to rip through their choice of 100 plus vodkas. Hair of the dog will be in order the next day, and what better way to dissolve the hangover than with a Bloody Mary. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PAXW

Nic Nowego D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 15, tel. 012 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.com. Similar to a cosmopolitan Dublin Bar the Irish-owned Nic Nowego continues to serve as the expat communities primary source of hangovers. Black clad candidates for Miss Polska serve up a wicked array of drinks from behind a sleek metallic bar, including the best Guinness in Poland, while Sky Sports keeps a largely foreign audience captivated. Don’t let the ‘No Stags’ sign on the door fool you, nights in Nic Nowego have been known to merge into daylight, and propping up the bar you’ll find a range of characters from loyal customers who’ve been rewarded with their own fridge, to bleary eyed lads who’ve just missed their plane. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. PAB

ClubsKrakow has a healthy number of clubs dotted around the city with parties going on pretty much most evenings. For the latest in what’s on check out the English-language where2b.org website.

Cień (The Shadow) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15 (Courtyard), tel. 012 422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. Do expect to queue at weekends, and wear your best wardrobe if you want the chance to party alongside platinum waifs and other beautiful creatures. A welcome break from Kraków’s more mainstream spaces expect to find top house sounds being played to a chemical crowd inside a cavernous set of medieval vaults. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. PABW

Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www.ensoclub.com. Open Friday’s and Saturday’s only, but well worth saving yourself for. This place has made a hot start, attracting a young, well groomed crowd of beautiful things. A lot of effort has been paid to the design, which can best be described as futuristic, and the sound system is top notch. Clearly it’s cocktails that are the order of the day here, and the bar staff aren’t afraid to experiment. QOpen , Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PABW

In KazimierzAlchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. 012 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Beret-clad theatre queers sit alongside students studying by candlelight inside this piece of Kraków folklore. The daylight that peers through the shutters reveals signs of serious neglect, but that becomes forgotten as

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HAMBURG

Port festival Harbour birthday party

Hamburg nightlife Bars, lounges and clubs

May - June 2008

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

N°9Complimentary copy

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blackness descends, hiding the scabby rugs and fading photos from view. Mind the steps and wobbles that hijack your attempts at effortless cool, and note that the bar is strictly self-service. Completely weird, and highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00. PAEB

Propaganda E-6, ul. Miodowa 20, tel. 012 292 04 02. The interior is an amazing museum of communist scrap: from scruffy posters of Lenin to medals, mannequins and chunky radios. Mad dog (Wściekły pies) - a lethal combination of vodka, Tabasco and sweet syrup - is there to help your foggy journey into socialist paradise. A must see. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. B

Jazz clubsBoogie D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel. 012 429 43 06, www.boogiecafe.pl. Cream and black colour schemes, lacquered surfaces and pictures of jazz legends combine to create a seductive atmosphere in this, one of Kraków’s top jazz bars. They’ve reopened following a brief refit, though you’d never know anything has changed. The concerts can be top-notch. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PAUEBXW

Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. 012 422 84 72, www.stalowemagnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a Parisien brother the interior is an appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with strings of red fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments cling to the walls and a team of waitresses in evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced chan-teuses crooning into the night to the appreciative applause of sharply attired couples. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAUE

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15 WHAT TO SEE

Instant Kraków

al. Krasińskiego A-4/5

Asnyka B-1/2

Augustiańska D-6-7

Bałuckiego A-6

Barska A/B-6/7

Bartosza E-6

Basztowa C/D-2

Berka Joselewicza E-5

Bernardyńska B/C-5/6

Biskupia B-1

Bonerowska E-4

Bonifraterska D-7

Bosacka E-1/2

Bożego Ciała D-6/7

Bracka C-3/4

Brzozowa D-5

Bułhaka A-7

Ciemna E-6

Cybulskiego A-3

Czapskich A-3

Czysta A-2

Dajwór E-6

Dębowa A-7

Dietla C/E-4/6

Długa C-1

Dolnych Młynów A-2

Dominikańska C-4

Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6

Dunajewskiego B/C-2

Estery D-6

Feldmana A-1

Felicjanek A-4

Floriańska C/D-2/3

Franciszkańska B/C-4

Garbarska B-2

Gazowa E-7

Gołębia B-3

Grabowskiego A-1

Grodzka C-3/5

Grzegórzecka E-4

Izaaka D/E-6

Jagiellońska B-2/3

Jakuba E-6

Józefa D/E-6

Kanonicza C-4/5

Kapucyńska A/B-3

Karmelicka A/B-1/2

Kilińskiego A-7

Kochanowskiego A-1/2

Koletek C-6

Kołłątaja E-3

Konfederacka A-7

Konopnickiej A/B-5/7

Kopernika D/E-3

Krakowska D-6/7

Kremerowska A-1

Krótka C-1

Krowoderska C-1

Krupnicza A/B-2/3

Krzywa C-1

ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7

Kupa E-6

Kurniki D-1

Lewkowa E-6

Łobzowska B-1/2

Loretańska A-2/3

Lubicz D/E-2

Madalińskiego A-6

Mała A-4

Mały Rynek C-3

Meiselsa D-6

Metalowców E-3/4

Michałowskiego A-1/2

Mikołajska C/D-3

Miodowa D/E-5/6

Monte Cassino A-7

Mostowa D/E-7

Na Gródku D-3

Na Przejściu E-6

Ogrodowa D-1

Orzeszkowej C-6/7

Paderewskiego C/D-1

Paulińska C-6/7

Pawia D-1/2

Piekarska C/D-7

Pijarska C/D-2

Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4

pl. Bawół E-6

pl. Bernardyński C-5

pl. Biskupi B/C-1

pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3

pl. Kossaka A-5

pl. Mariacki C-3

pl. Matejki D-1/2

pl. Na Groblach B-4/5

pl. Nowy D-6

pl. Słowiański C-1

pl. Św. Ducha D-2

pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4

pl. Szczepański B-2

pl. Wolnica D-7

pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4

Podbrzezie D-5/6

Podgórska E-7

Podwale B-2/3

Podzamcze B/C-5

Poselska B/C-4

Powiśle A/B-5

Powroźnicza A-6

Pułaskiego A-6/7

Radziwiłłowska E-2/3

Rajska A-2

Reformacka A/B-2

Retoryka A-4

Różana A-6

Rynek Dębnicki A-6

Rynek Główny C-3

Rynek Kleparski C/D-1

Rzeszowska E-6

Sandomierska A/B-6

Sarego C/D-4/5

Senacka C-4

Siedleckiego E-4/5

Siemiradzkiego A-1

Sienna C-3/4

Skałeczna C/D-7

Skawińska C/D-7

Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3

Skwerowa A-7

Sławkowska C-2/3

Smocza B-6

Smoleńsk A/B-4

Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1

Sołtyka E-3/4

Spasowskiego A/B-1

Starowiślna D/E-4/6

Stefana Batorego A/B-1

Stolarska C-3/4

Stradomska C/D-5/6

Strzelecka E-2

Studencka A/B-3

Sukiennicza C-6

Św. Agnieszki C-6

Św. Anny B-3

Św. Filipa C/D-1

Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5

Św. Idziego C-5

Św. Jana C-2/3

Św. Katarzyny D-6/7

Św. Krzyża D-3

Św. Marka C/D-2/3

Św. Sebastiana C/E-5

Św. Stanisława C-7

Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3

Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7

Szczepańska B/C-2/3

Szeroka E-6

Szewska B-2/3

Szpitalna C/D-2/3

Tenczyńska B-4

Trynitarska D/E-7

Warszauera D/E-6

Warszawska D-1

Wasilewskiego A-7

Wąska E-6

Węglowa D-7

Wenecja A-3

Westerplatte D-2/3

Wiślna B-3

Worcela D-2

Wrzesińska E-4

Wygoda A-4

Zacisze D-1/2

Zamenhofa D/E-2

Zamkowa A-6

Zegadłowicza A-4

Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5

Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4

Untouched by the fiery fate shared by most Polish cities at the end of WWII Kraków’s historic centre has largely survived in its original form, and today ranks as one of Europe’s great unspoiled cities. The old town has done well to survive the vicissitudes of time, from great fires to Tartar invasions. Most recently the post-war construction of Nowa Huta threatened to cast a polluted shroud over the old town, with drifting industrial winds blackening the buildings of the old town and destroying the gold covered dome of Wawel’s St Sigismund’s Chapel. The decline of Nowa Huta’s economic importance, and over two decades of meticulous restoration work, has seen Kraków return to its full splendor and its chocolate box old town is a must on any international itinerary. Today Krakow’s dusty courtyards and web of streets are home to some 2.3 million registered artworks, and some of the most significant historical sites in the country.

The main market square (C-3 Rynek) serves as Kraków’s gravitational centre, and is the natural start and finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter - the gridlike layout of the old town and its central square has changed little in the years that have followed. Measuring 200 x 200m, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and comes suitably stuffed with sites, stories and curiosities. Through the centuries it was in the square that homages to the king were sworn and public executions held. Most famously it was here that Tadeusz Kościuszko roused the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794. Taking centre stage in the Rynek is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was effectively the first shopping mall in the world - to this day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. Destroyed by fire in the 16th century it was rebuilt in 1555 using the renaissance signature of Italian architect Giovanni il Mosca. Alterations have continued ever since, including the addition of neo-Gothic arcades in the 19th century.

Soaring into the sky is the majestic St Mary’s Basilica. It doesn’t matter how many times you see it, the altarpiece, stained glass windows of the nave, and blue, starred ceiling of this cathedral will take your breath away. The magnificent altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work

16STREET REGISTER

August - September 2008

of the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz), and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański. Elsewhere around the old town don’t miss the opportunity one of only five Da Vinci paintings on display in the world – find his Lady with an Ermine on display at the Czartoryski Museum (D-2, ul. Św. Jana 19).

Be sure to walk what is known as the Royal Road: starting at (D-2) Floriańska Gate make your way past the Sukiennice and St Mary’s Cathedral in the town square, and down (C-4) ul. Grodzka where you will pass the church of (C-4) St Peter and Paul. The walk concludes at (B/C-5) Wawel Castle: the defining landmark of the city, and in itself worthy of several hours of exploration. For Poles this castle and cathedral complex is a symbol of national strength and patriotism; the ancient home of kings, and the material embodiment of Polish resistance and culture. It has certainly survived the vicissitudes of time - for instance, the castle came within a whisker of being flattened by the retreating Nazi’s. For foreign visitors Wawel is an unforgettable journey through the history of Poland. Perched on top of a 50m-high rock on the edge of old town, it is today remarkably intact and accessible to visitors, though in an effort to preserve the exhibits only a limited number of visitors are allowed to enter each day.

Further on is (D/E-6) Kazimierz, the district that housed Krakow’s Jews for some 500 years. In the last decade it has been rediscovered, and its hollowed-out Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart of Krakow’s edgy, artistic character. Peeling façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafes, each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. This is an area of Krakow that cannot be missed. Crossing the river will take you across to the Podgórze district, the site of the former Jewish Ghetto. Today fragments of the Ghetto wall can be viewed, as can the sight of Oskar Schindler’s factory (K-4, ul. Lipowa 4). Penetrate Kraków’s suburbs even deeper and you’ll discover the disused quarry that was formerly home to the Nazi Plaszów Labour Camp, and the fearsome Nowa Huta conurbation – one of only two Socialist Realist cities to be built.

You’ll find more about Krakow’s sights, fully up to date prices and opening hours in the full print edition of Krakow In Your Pocket as well as detailed information about Auschwitz, Nowa Huta, Wieliczka Salt Mines and Zakopane. Guides can be picked up by asking your concierge.

Kraków is a city that needs little promotion. Millions of visitors have discovered that it is a wonderful place to visit, no matter if you are looking to sightsee, take a romantic break or have a party weekend.

If you are interested in sightseeing in Kraków, check our wide range of guided tours (including walking, coach or limousine tours), all lead by a local expert. Kraków City Walk is a perfect introduction to explore the old town with its famous Market Square and Wawel Hill for prices starting from €8 per person. A longer alternative with a wider programme is Kraków Coach Tour, taking 3 hours for €32-34 when you will visit all the major attractions of Kraków, such as St Mary’s Church, the Cloth Hall, Royal Residence and Wawel Cathedral as well as Kazimierz, the former Jewish district. For those interested in Jewish culture there is The Traces of Jewish Culture tour which includes Kazimierz, Płaszów, the former Nazi Concentration Camp, and also the places Steven Spielberg used during filming for “Schindler’s List”. The price starts from €22. We offer also themed tours: Legendary Kraków, a programme designed especially for children (prices from €8), and Crazy Communism Tour, a trip that focuses on the traces of Communist heritage in Kraków (prices on request).

There are also several interesting places in the surrounding region. Firstly there is Wieliczka with its incredible, ancient salt mine and a UNESCO Heritage Site with tours starting from €32. Many visitors are interested in Auschwitz and

a trip to the Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum and memorial site starts from €34. You can also visit both these places during the Oświęcim & Wieliczka tour (from €53). Częstochowa is a bit further, but certainly worth a visit to see its imposing monastery with the miraculous icon of the Black Madonna. The price of this tour starts from €49. We offer also a wide range of other tours such as Warsaw Excursion tour, Wooden Churches of southern Poland tour, John Paul II tour, Into the Gypsy World tour, Jewish Galicia tour, Zakopane & Tatra tour, and tours of the Tatra Mountains (Romantic Mountains tour) and Dunajec River Gorge (Dunajec River Raft Trip). Prices are available on request for all of these tours.

Kraków is included in our all-inclusive escorted tours such as the 7-day Poland in One Go tour, the 12-day Grand Tour of Poland or the Jewish Heritage Tour. Also note that we offer 3 Central European Tours, namely Western Miracles, Eastern Miracles and Magic Triangle.

If you have any individual enquiries or specific interests concerning your visit please ask our staff which is experienced in creating customised travel arrangements in Kraków and other Polish cities. Contact us at iyp@staypoland.com.

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