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SPLJCING\Jhen you lace a ;Jroject it is generally recomended
that yeu use no more ,han 2 yards of laca at ame. This is because
pull ing the lace through all those
"es wears the lace and may weaken i t. It also fravs theges so
rhat th e lace doesn' t lock good :oward the end of~ M E N T
SPLICJNG
This method is commonly usad by eathercraft ers andcnufac:urers
1 lace as welL Often on a 5pool of lace ae ~ 'N iil be spliced in
to fi ll the spo o i.S
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L CING TECHNIQUESI pu ts the finshing to uch to handmade
leatherw yau lace, your technique and proficiency ,...- ,.t deal of
importance in the overaU appearanc9 ofed productoWi th tne follow
ing instructioos , plus a
?ractice, you wilt soon be do ing a professional job n
There are two rulas t remember . o :cing, ncmatter what
technique you are using. 1 " .;usnould loaeno more than 2 yar ds of
lace in your acing , eecle :t timeas face can fray and wear from
being lt..l led mrough toeholes. 2.) When lacing, a/ways lace with
:M il front or out-side of the project fac ing you'HE
WHIPSTITCH
RECOMMENDED USA GE:Small projects with litt le st resson seams
or as decorative edging.Use 3/32" hotes and 3/ 32" lace.TIla Whi p
St.itch uses 3% t imesme length of lace ta ttle lengttlof yaur pra
ject. FO f exampie ; ify our project measures 2 ft_aro und the
laced pan yo u wllneed 3 1 times that amount oflace, or 7 ft . ()f
lace.
Q
Pu ll stilch up tlght . Continue lacingin a spiraJ. tigntening
,he lace a. vou90 .
Pull the 'end af the lace tight to tak.sJack OUt ot the last
loop_ CUI off theend of the lace w jth a marp knita andtap all
lacing flat with a smooth-Taced
In a case where you don't lace comoplete/y around a proiect. yOU
'Nillbagi" lacing a bit different/y . YO willst il bagin between
the leathers, buty u will begin i J the tirst no/e tialso take Ihe
next :;titen In the t irsthale (twice through Ihe firs ho/e intIle
back leather
THE RUNNING STITCH
Be gin lacing in 1l&tW68n 1he tw o lal' ers01 Jeather. l. .
ave abaut 1/4" at thecnd wnere you slit t he lace.
oBrnQ the needle over 'ihe g.a'ge 01 th eieath e r to .he frent
of lh e projee and"rougn next hale aver from beginn inghoie . rh .
" ,hread it througn :he sl itin the ena 01 m e lace and :h rou
g'the opp os te hole . ... sn own.
When 'Nhip Stitching (Jn a singlethickness of Jeatner, be sure t
o catcht he beginning tail of l..ea under thenc.xt fQW i t h e s on
~ h e baek 01 theleather. End by running ~ h e needleback unde, the
last faw .titches (Jnot , he I"",her.
RIOCOMMENDED USAGE:Small prajeCts with littl'e stresson
saams.Use 3/32" hales ano 3/32" lace.The Running Stitch uses
lY.ztimes the lengtl1 of lace to thelength of your project.
Forexample; if your project measures2 ft. around the aced pan,
youwill need 1'1" times tl1at amountot lace. or 3 ft . of lace.
1 ~ ou3
o O O o oI o~ Pull st(eh up ti ht to lock thePush needle through
the next hote lace . Push need ., :hrough :lextfrom the back.
through [he ,iil and nole, being carsful not to twistBegin lacing
just as vou d id for tha out through the opposite hale in the
lace.INhip Stitch. front . as snown. Continued on paga 10.
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TH E RUI\JNING S7 TC:-t- com inued from paga 9.
o
ooly. Come Ihrough fi ne ho le in the When usng the Aunnjng
Stitch 011 aback, through slit in the lace, and single thieknes.,
begin lacing fromoull .11 stitehing up Ight and pull the through
first hole in front. Then lace When Wing off , 90 throu!jh nex to
back . side in ,ir51 hale, then bad,end of the lace ti9hl. Cut "TI'
rhe .n d through the secand hole Isecond time IllSt hole in
baci< only ano brlng tne through secano hale and throU9h0# th ll
lace close to the leothe, and t aa through oaci, hole} and continue
laca up between tha 1881her. 3ttd baak slit in "nd of laco . End by
runnin9. / l Ia
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Straight Slifs
1 E ~ ...
e\.-\1I1n lace a5 m DWn 1 bove. Note
o r r e < : 1 : sides 01 lace.
~ J \ L ":~ : . ,\-:;Orr.nue lac ing , Pul stitchea t ignt
a:'""u ;0 .7
Thlnk af chis stl teh as a spira l. Thi ske llflS the gra ln
side 01 the lace outon bo th .Idas 01 th e projec t.
t < ~ j ~ }1l, : ". J h ~ ~ ~ ~~ '
-..When no t lacing ti the way arou nd aproject. begin laeing be
twe en leathersin second slit in the back . Then comeup through
firS slit in back , hroughsI;t in end of lace .nd through ti.stslit
in front. Ihen lace th rough secondslit Isecond lime through secand
slit}and continue lacing as usual.PulJ all stitches tight. CUt off
ends .Tal> st itches at with a malla\.
2
~ C ', \;Pul fim loop tight and Iac:e bacl .thro ugh flrn sli ts
of both I. amers.
Laca to begin ning st it en and Il lIv e alo op in nQln ro last
atiteh. Lac'throu gh last sl it. Lace back o ~ siit(o n back an ly)
and push need le upbe tween lea thers.
When ty ng off , go th ,ough "ext 10 'last ,lit in back onl y
and bring rhelace up between t he leat"er, and backa few stitah
e
-~ ~ \\
Pull flrn st:ltch :ight . T.um needle a.nd90 baek ttlruugn next
lit as sh OlNn .6
Pu ll t he loose loop tight and com inu.ou ll ing a /l t n e
slecK out of he ;ace .10 BEG INNING~ ~
F I..E5H SIOE
~ . \~ ~ L . E S H SIO E; ; : : : ~ : : ---
When using the Buekstltch on a singlethickness, begin laeing f
mm baek sidsin 1l rsl . lit, t hen back th rough sec a ndslit in
end ot lace, end by running lac a"nder las stitch on bac k .
RECOMMEl\IDED USAG :: ;Lightweight leathe rs o, singlethickness
projects whe re littlelace is required to caver the"raw" edge .Use
3/32 slits with 3/32" lace.Single Loop La cing uses 6% timesmore
lace than the length ot theproject. Fo' exa mple; ir vo urproject
measures 2 f t . aroundlaced part, yOY will need 13 ft.of lace.
Push needle under lace as shown .wh h rhe fle.sh 5ide up. Do not
t w i ~ tlaCB , ? ult up i nugly.
SINGLE OOP L CING
Begin al tal 0# project, "Us" laceth.ough f ront side. Leave
about ..of end.5
These flrst 2 >-titehes ,hould nOt betight, bUI snug as they
must beodiu.ted when conpleting steps 816.Continue lacing in this
1ashion untilyou reae" comer hole.
Fold end up and loop lae" .round asshown. Hold with finge,s
until 1ststitch is tightened.
LACETHROUGHTHREECORNER HObESTWICE EACH
Continue lacing as befo re. Whel1 youreach a corner, lace
through the threecorner holes tvuice eaeh , as shown.
., -
Lace thflu gh 2nd s lil. 8 e su ,esmoot" sida af lace faces YOU
, as$ho. . n in dr aw in gs. Pull up snugly,
Don't forget 10 go under the loop.aeh time an Ihe corner Lace
lothe beginning.
Continued on page 12.
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Care ful/y cut off .n d. f rom rhe fleshside. as snown . Tap
lacing t l t withma ilet o, ro ll und ef a w ooden dow cl.
-When you are not l.oi n9 eo mp letelyaround a project jau wiJI
begin 3Sin St op 9 01 the Whipstitch on paga9. Th en come under
first stltQh asho w n and continua lacing.
DOUBLE LOOP LACINGRECOMMENDED USAGE:
Medium size projects such asbillfolds, purses , clutches. et
c.Use 3 /32" ur 1/8" lace withcorrespondingly sized si 13.Ooub le
Loop Lacing uses 78time mo re lace than thelength of the pro ject.
Forexample: if youf profect measures 2 ft. around laced part,you wi
ll need 14-16 tt of laca.
4
Begi;n nin-g on tront side
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p l e a-na v face
leathe"
;"
Pu anv slack out 1 the first loop Push needle through Ihe laSI
;l i t as Carefu / ly ~ u t off tha end 1 Ihi.and adj ust lacing
w;lh f i n g e ~ to make shown. B,ine it up be l n tt.. lacing. Top
lacing with a malteaH 'Our sttches ap-pe2iT equai. leathers and
-out be1ween the lac ing. Or roll II t wlth a wo oden dowel.
ENOINGFLESH S lD e
h ~ n g lJ Dre no1: lacing c o m ~ e t e v When ending, go
through lasaround a p,oject. you will begin under bight and then 90
th rough th elaci ng a in Step 1 through 3. In Step ast slit again.
through front only . When Oouble Loop Lac ing on a When ending. Tun
Ihe needleon he back, lay il along he edge oi Come out between the
leathe,s and4 . instead 01 hOlding the nd down single 1hic ather,
you can back \.IndaT Oe last ( W stitchesu l the leather and just
lace over it . begin just os you did in Stop 24. on he back oi the
leatherack a few " ilches. Trim off.
http:///reader/full/stitches.ulhttp:///reader/full/stitches.ulhttp:///reader/full/stitches.ulhttp:///reader/full/stitches.ul
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because l i a : : l i i a e ~ ~ ~ . , . $ I . a ~ ~ ~ I l ~ ~ ~
f ] i i ~ ~ l i i
As w it h other types of n itcnes,
R PLE LOOP LAC iNGRECOMMENOED USAGE:
a v i e r projecu such ~ s purses ,efeases and holsters,wi ll
caver thiclh.
2nd lace as
1WO OPE N :10L ES
D Use :51v1U9 to loosen and 3pread Trlm sorne eod; lUcl< b
.1WeenP JII ~ n d out O n j rom ieatner3: breaking cerneot featheTS
~ a c e to 2 open holes onback side, .dhesioo. frant; one op n noie
on baclc.. j~ . . _ ' ;. ___ . _ . __ _ e _ _ _ o _ . - : : . . .
.
Pull end Jp SE NEEN eath.13E SURE (O majmalo :he twoloops.
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Carefulty push needl. do wn
Lac.e th r ough na"topen hale at baclr..25
under ONE
thro uoh 8 0TH o ~ PU5A on lacing wi th fingers te Go baclr. t O
stap 23 and begi n Contin ua n g s lack an o'adl ust. pu lling sl
ack out r f lace. tighten in g S1itches.
Pull slack oown Ihrough borh 1001'S. Carefully cut off end. Tal'
lacingLacing should be adjusted la givlt an around projec1 and rub
ar roll toraven app earance. eveness.
Lace through remaining hol9 nd upbe tw een lacing at topo
S DDLE STITCHINGRECOMMENDED USAGE:
Sadale stitching is the best methodfar sewing two ' 1110/'9
p!m;es otleather together.Use a Stitching awl 10 puneh holes.You
will .150 nead two harnessneedles, nitchng groover, oyer'-stitch .
tool, unwaxed nen threadand be95wax or ~ r e w a x e d thread.
Use the stitching graoyer and gou9' Mo inen the 90ugeo channelo
lightlychannel around the edges oi ,he with a dam,. .ponge, and run
the overoTHREADING T.H E t ~ E E D L E leather . Gauge the leathar
botn stiten tool H .round the channel onsides. Keop tool lig"t
agaiost 19ather the front side only. This marl
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Pul! both threads until all slacktaken up.
CUt threads off in :titenes .h is aCtually lelps tf1e p.pearanee
of any sJigin'y irr egu larsti t en es.
Cu t ne edlM off threads . PUl ne8dluon a new length of t hread.
Insen aw lon hole baek from 3rt st itel! andsta rt new mread in
this ho la as IX .plained in ste p 4. Cont lnu. st lteh ing . round
project t D st an ing h ale.
Round the edges ef the leathBf onboth sides w ith a bevel-e.l8
adgebeve/er.AOUNO BRAlD OR MEXICAN BASKETWEAVE
RECOMM ENDED USAGE :Use this sti1:ch ( lO anv 'edge ';"here
Eround 1: reicied effect desired.
Use 1/8" or 3/ 16" lace INitn oor,eslondingly sized s l i t ~ or
no;es.PUS" neadlo 3nd iace down bstweenlcatners then out ihe back
through
Round braid U:le':J 9 tlmes mont laco !hira . t. Lave *" 01
lacing en dtuck ed ao w n batween leathen . Br ing tilan lile
Ierlgth 01 the project. ro rexampie: il your project measures 2 tI.
lace over to front e t leather and pushlace throu gh lirst slit.
Bring lace be.:.'"arcund laced part you N1II need 8 it. over 'iD
rront .de or leather and01 lace. lace through feurth slit. Bring
lacs over to frent 01 lea,her thenlaes through secand slit .
I Bring lace to front of leatllor.
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- - - -
>
J1
,\
'/
..'o.
t,
3/32 , 1/& or 3/16" lace withrrespondlngly silad hales or
sliu.
, ,,/ ,/
J, 1
- ,'11. '- _,, ,1 ,, , --
0 --Lace up through third slit 00 tOP3Igaan catchng lac ing end
underrtiteh Dn bacl, 01 leather., .I, I, \
- --tnrough nex1 slit in bottomlacing follawing the SCime
.15 n staps 4, 5, i.nd 6.
To lace cornefS with th e app liqoe, Itch, se up para"el raW 01
slil.as shown aboye, with ene slit on thecornsr of the insde rQW
and foursHts on the outside row.. It is i m p o r t ~e nl to keep
the di,tance between the.palaJlaJ rows 01 ,slit5 the same
goi.ngaround a corner as they ara whenlaclng in a straight
line.
Pull end 01 lace out 01 loop,
Boglnning from backoide of Jeather,pulJ noedlo and Jaco Ihrough
flrst elitin tap row. Le8veabouT3/4"oflacingn d in tlit then push
neodle and Jaco Lac ethrough second slit on bottom row.Pull stiteh
snug bUI not tight.
--_ '>s>
Pu sh needle und sr c r o s o .. bight asshown.
--lace unlil SH or s of IJcing rEme'n!.Lace under twa sttches on
the b a c kside of leather and trim off excess.Voo a're now ready
to spHce in a nawlength of lace,
coroer slurwic:e a.echLace through me ttlres inside corner51its
tw jce each and through the fourfiuts'd e t: orner , litl on::02
eao.h, asshown.
row,stiu::;h on bzck of leather.
Pull 51iteht ighl.tom rQw.
Insertthrough3/ 4 up Ihrough bightsnuQ but not 1jght.
\
..
.,
eft.c\
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P\lSh begiooing lac'" under \\"'0 oeitcheson backs id e of
leatller, Tightenthen trm off ax ss lacB .
Loe . clow n throl\gh ramain ing slit.
\, ,\ L "', ,, ,'. ' \'.\
.ontinua lar:/ng un tii you h; ve one,lit left n top row sud one
sli t left
CHl bo n om row .I.aes th ,ough rP.maining top s li t thenup t l
rough back af loop, 00 no plJlIlace 1igbt.
Lac9 \JJ thro ugh bight then downthrougn fro n t 01 loop. Pul
sis e < outal lac e wh ere it rung th,ough loopan d undel' b
igl'lt,
pull tiel , . d just ing lace w ith fin ge rs Push l } e d undsr
two t h e ~ onto mak s aU you r st it ches aplIso, baoksld e of
leat"e,. Pu ll tight, thent rfm off exCi ' S lace.
8uckstilchHow toThe Art ofHand By Al StohlmanSewingLeatherBy Al
Slohlman #1946
1944
See your local andy Leather store for these books and more.
