Havana through the eyes of someone who worked really hard to avoid all the stupid, expensive, touristy crap. HEADS UP! • Don't bring US dollars! They charge an extra 10% for american dollars, so consider your dolla-dolla-bills useless here. • Euros are the best to change, and actually the exchange rate at the airport is great. Or you can go to a cadeca (currency exchange house) and change there but the lines are usually long and you need your passport. o CADECA: There are many sprinkled throughout town, but a central one is located on Calle Obispo and Compostela , in Havana Vieja. Its open till 8pm. o ALTERNATIVE OPTION: if you're not gonna change a lot of money, you can walk into the Hotel Telegrafo or Hotel Inglaterra (right off of the Parque Central) and you can change your money there even if you aren’t a guest. The rate is 1-1 for Euros, but if you're changing small amounts it doesn't really matter. • TAXI from the airport should be $20-25 CUC for a private taxi to most parts of Havana. You can take a shared taxi for $10CUC if you don't mind dropping other people off along the way. • Bring all your toiletries and don’t plan on buying anything there - things are expensive and shitty. • if you’re American, bring all the money you’re planning to spend in cash. Your ATM card won’t work and nobody takes credit cards really. • It's always nice to bring some extra toiletries and candy/gum to give as gifts- toothpaste, body soap, deodorant. People really appreciate it. Oh, and rolling papers. Seriously- they're like gold here. • If you're a girl- every time you go to the bathroom in a club you'll need some loose change- $.25 or so to give the bathroom attendant for toilet paper. No money, no paper. • EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE, and a “regalito” will get you almost anything LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
Transcript
Havana through the eyes of someone who worked really hard to avoid
all the stupid, expensive, touristy crap.
HEADS UP! • Don't bring US dollars! They charge an extra 10% for american dollars, so consider your
dolla-dolla-bills useless here.
• Euros are the best to change, and actually the exchange rate at the airport is great. Or you can go to a cadeca (currency exchange house) and change there but the lines are usually long and you need your passport.
o CADECA: There are many sprinkled throughout town, but a central one is located on Calle Obispo and Compostela , in Havana Vieja. Its open till 8pm.
o ALTERNATIVE OPTION: if you're not gonna change a lot of money, you can walk into the Hotel Telegrafo or Hotel Inglaterra (right off of the Parque Central) and you can change your money there even if you aren’t a guest. The rate is 1-1 for Euros, but if you're changing small amounts it doesn't really matter.
• TAXI from the airport should be $20-25 CUC for a private taxi to most parts of Havana. You can take a shared taxi for $10CUC if you don't mind dropping other people off along the way.
• Bring all your toiletries and don’t plan on buying anything there - things are expensive and shitty.
• if you’re American, bring all the money you’re planning to spend in cash. Your ATM card won’t work and nobody takes credit cards really.
• It's always nice to bring some extra toiletries and candy/gum to give as gifts- toothpaste, body soap, deodorant. People really appreciate it. Oh, and rolling papers. Seriously- they're like gold here.
• If you're a girl- every time you go to the bathroom in a club you'll need some loose change- $.25 or so to give the bathroom attendant for toilet paper. No money, no paper.
• EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE, and a “regalito” will get you almost anything
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
ACCOMMODATIONS If you’re looking for affordable accommodations, there aren't really any backpacker-type-hostels
(even though there are a few claiming to be, but they're crap). So the best thing to do is stay in
a "Casa particular" which is the house of a Cuban family that rents out a room. Some people rent
out the entire apt and it costs $25-50cuc, some people rent out rooms in their house and thats obviously more affordable. The advantage of staying in a casa with a family is that you will inevitably
gain some insight into how things work in Cuba, and believe me, nothing makes much sense here.
Having a family nearby to help you navigate the city is clutch, in my humble opinion.
o THE BEST HOUSE IN HAVANA IS AT 263 SAN NICHOLAS WITH
CRISTINA, TERESA, JUAN AND LAZARO. The location is central without
being in the center of the touristy madness, the vibe is beyond friendly - its family,
and it is the most affordable deal in Havana. For $15cuc a night you get: solid
egg-juice-coffee-love-breakfast (whenever you wake up), dinner (around 8ish,
tiempo Cubano), and your very own Cuban family (caring and affectionate mother, hilariously inappropriate grandmother, wise and sage grandfather, and perfectly
mischievous kid brother). Can’t recommend them enough!! Teresa and Cristina:
263 San Nicholas entre Concordia y Neptuno, 7866-6467.
o Airbnb works here now too, so you could take a look on there for apartments, but
you'll end up being more independent that way which in my opinion isn't
necessarily a good thing, if its your first time in Cuba. But, there are really lovely
Airbnbs available if you’d prefer that kind of an experience.
o I prefer staying in Central Havana because its close to everything, but its not the
center of the tourist tornado. Havana Vieja is just - too much. Too many people,
too many hustlers, just too much. Vedado is a SUPER nice, chill, neighborhood
with beautiful big houses and lots of greenery. But its not total ‘burbs - its got a couple of action-packed streets, but overall def more chill than other parts of
Havana.
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
NIGHTLIFE This is how it works: Wednesday to Sunday in La Habana is non-stop. Monday nights are for sleeping. Tuesday nights are for low-key chilling.
Wednesday nights it begins all over again!
LA FABRICA DE ARTE (FAC) (Thursday – Sunday) is amazing! Its at the end of Vedado neighborhood just before the tunnel to Miramar (tell your colectivo “linea, antes del tunel”). It’s an art gallery/museum that becomes a night club and it's got a great vibe with a more alternative crowd. Only $2cuc to get in, which is awesome because its totally accessible for Cubans alike. If you're going on a friday or saturday arrive early (no later than 10:30!) to avoid an hour-long line, and leave before the lights come on to avoid the longest line in the world to leave. Seriously. It's good every night from Thursday through Sunday, and there is always something different- musicians perform from all over the world, and then there is always a DJ playing more mainstream stuff till close. They have a Facebook page you could follow for more info. Locals prefer to go on Thursday and Sunday nights because fri and Saturdays are too crowded with tourists.
BERTOLT BRECHT (Wednesday nights are best, but Wed-Saturday) (Calle 13 Esquina I, Vedado - more of an alternative scene for live music and drinks. Small and unpretentious, and generally a very cool, cuban-hipster kind of vibe. Def worth a visit. There is a small bar in one room, and in the other room a small stage which everyone gathers around. The hallway in between the two will kill you with the second-hand smoke.Wednesday nights are the best, when an awesome salsa/funk/fusion band called Interactivo plays around midnight/12:30. On Wednesday nights the after party is at Corner Cafe (in Vedado) and the fiesta continues until 6am. Prepárate! Also, try pronouncing this German name the way Cubans do for shits and giggles. “Ber-toll breeeeeeshhhhhhhh!”
CORNER CAFE (Wednesday nights after party, Friday nights normal party) Primera y B en Vedado: A small, kinda whatever lounge in Vedado that I've usually only been to for after parties. Come here on Wednesday nights after Bertol Brecht. Interactivo band usually plays on Fridays here around midnight.
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
NIGHTLIFE, continued
PATIO DE EGREN (every night, but early!) Campanario y San Miguel, Centro Havana. One of my favorite places!! Every single night there is AMAZING live music. I’ve heard trova, rumba, salsa, son, todo. It's early too (5-8pm) so it’s more like an appetizer for the night. I loved the Friday night band, Rumberos de Cuba - their energy is electric and they get the room moving. Tuesdays are my favorite though: Conjunto Chappottin is a Son band and they are not only pretty famous but incredible. You can't go wrong at that place. Also a great place to go if you're traveling alone- people are so nice and friendly- you'll def make friends if you try.
LA CASA DE LA MUSICA EN MIRAMAR (Tuesday nights) On Tuesdays they have a matinee show from 5-9 (show starts 7ish) and it's fantastic. "Habana d'Primera with Alexander Abreu" is the Timba band that plays and although the entry is expensive it's really worth it. Lots of Cubans, not too many tourists, people dance and its really a great time. They’ve usually got some great things going on other nights as well, but its best to call ahead and find out. There is also a Casa de la Musica in La Habana- don't go there! It's super touristy and expensive and I’m fairly certain its always full of prostitutes.
1830 (Thursdays and Sundays are best, weekends are fine also) .. A good place for salsa. A fair mix of touristy and local. They often have live music but you should call first to confirm. And it's outdoors, which is always a pleasure! Lots of jineteros, but it's still a fun place to dance. Thursdays are good as are weekends and Sundays. Its on the malecon right before the tunel – that’s literally the best address I can give. Just tell the taxi that you’re going to “mil ocho” and they’ll know!
SARA’O LOUNGE Sundays, and probably Fridays and Saturdays too) 17th and F in Vedado: If you’re into fancy-pants lounges with all white furniture and neon lights, then you’ll love this place. If rich-and-fancy Cuba makes you want to vomit, then you’ll hate this place. Either way, you should check it out because its a very different side of cuba and fascinating in its own right. Who they heck are the Cubans who come here and pay $4cuc for a beer? I have no idea. But its great people watching. Ive only ever been on a Sunday at midnight when my beloved Interactivo (salsa/funk/fusion band) plays, and they are awesome. Its a smaller iteration of the band than what plays on Wednesdays at Bertolt Brecht, but they're equally awesome.
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
NIGHTLIFE, continued
DON CANGREJO (weekends!) Primera entre 16 y 18 in miramar. 7204-3839 : A very Cuban resto-bar with outdoor seating on the water, and frequent live performances (salsa, reggaeton, etc). It can get too crowded depending on who the musical performer is, but usually its very fun. Very Cuban. Dress nicely! Boys - no shorts of sneakers. Best to call before you go to see what's going on that night. Also, sometimes there are TONS of prostitutes, but hey, its still fun.
EFE BAR (weekends!) 23 and F in Vedado. This spot just opened up and its a small lounge/bar that is BEAUTIFULLY decorated and often has live music. Drinks are not cheap, and its definitely one of those fancy-pants places, but this one at least has a more artsy vibe. Check it out if for nothing more than the decorations - its really beautiful.
BAR ENCUENTRO (calle Linea entre L y M, Vedado)- is a kind of fancy-pants lounge on a beautiful terrace rooftop in Vedado. It’s usually quite turnt-down, but a great date place or pregame spot.…. Its small tables with people chatting and reggaeton playing on the video screen. A mojito is $3CUC and they have hookah (!) for $12cuc.
EL COCINERO (next door to Fabrica del Arte - bar/restaurant) . A very local spot- a good place to have a cheap drink with some Cubans. Ive actually never been but everyone says its great, and there is food as well.
SABADO DE LA RUMBA (Calle 4 e/ Calzada y 5ta, Vedado). Also never went but have heard about this - its a block party with live music and dancing that happens on saturday afternoons.
EL ESPACIO (Friday or Saturday) in Miramar, a bougie small lounge with reggaeton and very good looking young people that's very not-touristy. Dress nicely: boys, no shorts. Great people watching and usually reggaeton music. Only for a fri or sat night.
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
NIGHTLIFE, continued
LOS AMANTES (officially every night, but Thursday to Saturdays are best) is on Concordia between San nicholas and Manrique. It's a small reggaeton lounge/club with almost always mostly Cubans (sometimes they will turn away foreigners, actually), and the entrance is kind of a speakeasy-situation. It looks like a cafeteria from the front but there is a black door on the left which leads to the club, and there is usually a bouncer-type-guy waiting in front of it. I've always had a lot of fun there on the weekends (Thursday to sat), and it's usually more of an after hours space. I don't think I've ever arrived before 3/4am, to give you an idea of the kind of spot it is. If the bouncer is not being nice, offer a “regalito”, that always works.
ARTE EN LA RAMPA During the summer (July to September) it's a little open air market kind of thing with live music, artesenatos, food and drinks. Free to get in- its a daytime thing. I think until 8pm on weeknights and weekends but closed on Monday. Very cool, def check it out during the day. More of an artsy crowd . During the rest of the year it's still open every day except Monday's for live music- it's an afternoon thing, I'd say to arrive 4-7ish. Always a cool crowd, even if they are a little young. The place remains open the rest of the year but only for the music, not the art.
LA GRUTA (Wednesdays are for salsa, Thurs-Sun Cuban party) 23 y P in Vedado. Wednesday is the night to go if you want to dance salsa. It’s a mixed crowd (Cubans and foreigners) but also LOTS of jineteros. Its not my favorite vibe, but if you are just going to dance you will definitely have fun. Usually costs $3cuc to enter. Saturday nights are a more Cuban crowd and its pretty much only reggaeton. If youre going with friends, its literally cheaper to buy a bottle and table than to just buy individual drinks. Ah, Cuba and your cheap and delicious rum!
PATIO OF HOTEL INGLATERRA off of the Parque Central. It's pretty touristy but the son band, Rumi was so great. The lead singer has an amazing voice. Not a bad place to have a beer, hear some music, and be a tourist.
www.lapapeleta.cult.cu is a Cuban website with listings of some musical events. They list a lot, but certainly not everything. It might be a good resource? ,Couldn’t hurt to at least check it out.
BOOZIN’ and GRUBBIN’ Lower your expectations and you might be pleasantly surprised!
El Chan Chullero (Calle Brazil/Teniente Rey entre Bernaza y Cristo in Habana Vieja) an awesome, itsy bitsy restaurant/bar near the Capitalio. It’s got a great, rustic kind of vibe, and although It’s kind of touristy its still TOTALLY good and worth it. Food isn't expensive, and delicious, and the beers are the coldest I've found in all of Havana. It's more of an alternative kind of vibe and a very good place to chill, meet cool people. Cubans and foreigners go there alike. I always make friends every time I'm there - a great spot if you're traveling alone. There is often a line - just order a beer while you wait and descapitaliza a velocidade (read: chill the fuck out)!
O Reilley 304 Gin bar and restaurant that's the address of the spot in Havana vieja. It's an uber cool resto-bar, small and intimate and great for a cocktail and a chat. You'll probably need reservations on a weekend night because it's tiny and quite popular. Food is fantastic and delicious and moderately priced- drinks are more expensive but they are fancy, delicious, and worth the money. Touristy for sure, but still def worth a visit. Good for a cocktail pre game or so, closes early - midnight I think. Beers are $2cuc and cocktails start at $4 and go up (up up!). The passion fruit mojito costs $6cuc but it's tremendous and fancy and you'll probably want a second one.
PALENKE is around the corner from Chan Chullero, this is a good option for ice cold beers and more traditional Cuban food. Its not expensive and the vibe is pretty chill. If the line is too long at Chan Chullero, check this spot out.
LA JULIANA San Nicholas and where it ends, Centro Havana. Wanna eat like a Cuban? Go here, because they all love it. Open for lunch, dinner, and late night munchies (open till 4!), it’s a pretty cheap, local Cuban restaurant. Every Cuban I’ve met says its one of their favorite places. Prices are listed in moneda nacional, so don’t be scared – its still pretty cheap.
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
BOOZIN’ AND GRUBBIN’, continued
GALY CAFE - San Martin off of Galiano in Centro Habana. Good lunch spot – portions are generous and a grilled chicken is only $80CUP or you can get a delicious ropa vieja for $140CUP. It literally looks like nothing from the outside, but push through those frosted doors and welcome to the restaurant with the least ambiance ever. BUT, the AC is strong, and the big screen playing music videos is entertaining as hell.
SIA KARA CAFE Barcelona entre amistad y el capitolio: an awesome bar behind Capitolio, on the way to Barrio Chino. It's pretty Bohemian and cozy with pillows and couches to chill on. Super chill vibe, and equally great for low-key daytime or nighttime chilling. Also a great date spot!
EL ANTIGUO ALMACEN DE LA MADERA Y EL TABACO Is a huge warehouse space on the water (malecón) in Havana Vieja- walk past the Terminal and past the Plaza de Santiago and you’ll see the big warehouse space on your left. They usually have live music playing during the day, and I assume it's more lively at night though I've never been (but I have walked by and heard loud music playing). It's a beautiful space, with huge tanks of beer brewing in the back. Food and drinks are surprisingly not expensive. A great spot to get day-drunk!
ARCANGEL CAFE: in central Havana on Concordia right off of Galiano. It's an adorable, itsy bitsy French cafe, with delicious coffee and cakes, and an awesome vintage French cafe feel. The tables are old sewing tables and there is a vinyl record player usually playing old French tunes. A small tv plays Charlie Chaplin videos in the background, and it def doesn't feel like Cuba but it doesn't matter- it's a lovely place for a coffee to just hang and get some peace and quiet and maybe read a book. They also have wine and beer.
CAFETERIA HAVANERA San Nicholas entre Neptuno y Concordia in Centro Habana: LAND OF THE $1 burger! Cubans all tell me this is the best hamburger spot in Havana. Well, lower your foreigner expectations and you’ll be quite happy. A hamburger costs a little over a dollar and it's surprisingly delicious as long as you don’t dwell too long on thinking what the burger is made of. It closes in late afternoon, so its really only for lunch. Prices listed are in moneda nacional!
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
BOOZIN’ AND GRUBBIN’, continued
LA FABRICA DE CERVEZA in the Plaza Vieja, Havana Vieja. It's one of the cafes in the Plaza Vieja - touristy as all hell, but its good weekday spot for live music and some tall necks of beer. And sometimes you just want to sit in a plaza and be a tourist and drink expensive beer.
PALADARES are government owned restaurants and used to be the only options for tourists. I haven’t actually been to any of these but they have all come recommended by friends:
Dona Eutimia : My friend said that it's his favorite restaurant in La Habana. You need to make a reservation.
Paladar San Cristobal (San Rafael 469 el Lealtad y Companario)
Rio Mar Restaurante (3ra y Final, Miramar)
LAURITA’S LIST la habana, cuba
OTHER GOODIES just a small sampling of other tidbits of info that might help you navigate
the craziness that is La Habana
TIENDA DE DISEÑO CLANDESTINO: 403 Villegas off of Teniente Rey (Calle Brasil), is a small design shop that sells sweet printed t-shirts and tote bags and hats and awesome art prints. They have their workshop in the back and it's just a great vibe- a cool place for non-traditional souvenirs. Sometimes on Saturday nights they have a DJ playing in the shop and it's one of my favorite parties in all of La Habana.
UNEAC. This is one of the government cultural offices in a beautiful old home in Vedado (close to Bertoldt Brecht.) They have son concerts Wednesdays and Saturdays at 5pm. Their garden is beautiful and it's low-key and awesome.
LEO D’LAZARO ART GALLERY (O’reilly 501 in Habana Vieja) – is a super cool, FREE art gallery thats totally worth a little peak into. Look for the fusbol table in the back– its mindblowing. Check it out here too: www.cuban-artist.com
There is a famous ice cream place called "COPELLIA" in Vedado neighborhood that Cubans literally line up and wait 45 minutes for. Honestly, I don't get the hype because im fairly certain the ice cream tastes like cough syrup, but just seeing the line of people is kind of worth it. It's right in front of Havana Libre hotel on 23 y L.
SALSA classes should cost around $10cuc a class. I love CH Salsa Club in centro Havana. It’s a new school but a great space, and theyre just the best fucking people ever. Take classes with them, they know whats up. +53 7 8676628
THE MALÉCON. Is the ocean front- Cubans hang out there to drink and just hang. Check it out at night, it's quite the scene and the people watching is fantastic. Bring a bottle of rum and you’ll blend right in.
If you need WIFI there are several hot spots throughout the city that you will easily recognize anytime you see a bunch of Cubans huddling around their phones on the street. In Centro Havana there is a park on galiano and "boulevard" street, two blocks off of neptuno in the opposite direction of the malecon. You'll see a bunch of people on their phones- can't miss it. There are guys walking around in the park selling wifi “tarjetas” for 3cuc an hour. Even tho its totally illegal to sell these cards in the park, its fine – buy them. Scratch off the code and boom – you have internet, and its pretty fast! Most of the hotels also have wifi but I find the connection in the park much faster. There is also a good spot in Vedado on 23 and L right near the Habana Libre hotel.
THE BEACH! Yup, there’s a beach close-by, and its pretty awesome. The super touristy option is to go 2 hours away to the resort town of Vedado, but that sounds like it sucks to me, personally (even though im sure the beach itself is beautiful). To get to the Mar Azul/Playas del Este beaches, which are about 40 min outside of havana, you have 2 options: You can hop on the tourist bus that leaves the Parque Central (right in front of Hotel Inglaterra) every 40 minutes - it costs $5CUC roundtrip and its a lovely ride, but you are limited by their schedule (last bus leaves the beach at 6pm). Ask to get off in front of Tropicoco for the most central part of the beach, or you can get off before for a more chill part of the beach. OR, you can hop in a shared taxi for $1CUC which you get in the park on Galiano and Reina… ask around for which car is going to “Mar Azul/playa del este”, and they’ll point you to the right car. This way is cheaper, but much more annoying. You have to wait until the car fills up, and tell the driver you are going to “tropicoco”. Sometimes for an extra $1CUC they will drop you exactly in front of the beach, otherwise they’ll drop you on the side of the road, you’ll cross the road, and walk straight towards the ocean for about 10-15 min. Its easy, but its annoying.
FOOD ON THE BEACH: there are vendors on the beach trying to sell you food for like $15cuc - thats nonsense, don’t eat that. Be like a cuba and buy a “cajita” (little box) of food from one of the vendors on the grassy area right before you get to the beach. You can get a box of rice with chicken/pork or ropa vieja for $35CUP, which is basically just over a dollar.
