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Accessible Structures

We invite you on a journey to discover the city of Batroun and its monuments, the Ras ech-Chaqa’a promontory (known also as the Theouprosopon) situated to the north of Batroun, the Mussaylha Fort, and the monuments of Koubba (a small village 2km to the north of the city of Batroun).

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Mussaylha Nahr el-Jawz

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WadiNahr el-Jawz

Mount Lebanon

Ras Ech-Chaqa'a(Theouprosopon)

Koubba

Batroun

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Batroun, on the coast 50 kilometers north of Beirut, is situ-ated on a sandy beach-rock used as a quarry since antiquity.

The city is located in a triangular shaped plain crossed by the river Nahr el-Jawz. It is bordered by the Mediterranean

Sea to the west, the foothills of Mount Lebanon to the south and east, and the Ras ech-Chaqa‘a plateau, the ancient

Theouprosopon, to the north.

Batroun in HistoryWhile it is difficult to determine the precise origins of the city, prehistoric remains found in the area have dated human settle-ment to the middle Paleolithic era (100,000-40,000 B.C.), as well as to the Chalcolithic era (4500–3500 B.C.) and the Bronze Age (3500-1200 B.C.).

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Batrounand its Region

The earliest texts mentioning Batroun are the Amarna Letters (mid-2nd millennium B.C.), sent by the governors of the coastal Canaanite cities to the Pharaohs of Egypt to ask for help in repelling Amorite intruders (nomad tribes originating from the middle-Euphratus region in the north). Batroun was subse-quently destroyed by the Amorites and remained in ruins until the Tyrian re-colonization in the 9th century B.C. In 7th century B.C., Batroun was among the cities conquered by the Assyrian army.

Batroun was also involved in the war between the successors of Alexander the Great in early 200 B.C. Taking advantage of the disruption and chaos that marked the end of the Seleucids (305 and 64 B.C.), the Itureans (Arab tribes) spread their power over the region from Békaa and transformed Batroun into a base for their raids against the coastal cities.

By 64-63 B.C., the Roman General Pompey took over the region, and took back Batroun from the Iturean princedom. During the Roman period, Batroun used vinery symbols on its coinage to accredit the etymology of Botrys, its new Greco-Roman name. The currency of Batroun struck during the rule of the Roman emperors Elagabalus (218-222 A.D.) and Alexander Severus (222-235 A.D.) shows that the city had a temple dedicated to a local goddess or Astarte. The construction of a small theatre was launched during the same period but was never completed (1).

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Batroun in HistoryïjQÉàdG »a ¿hôàÑdG

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On July 9th, 551 A.D., a violent earthquake struck and destroyed hundreds of Levantine cities, including Batroun. The city did not recover from this catastrophe, and disappeared completely from the historical records until the 12th century A.D.

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On the eve of the Crusades, Batroun was part of the Emirate of Banu Ammar, who ruled North Lebanon from the mid-11th cen-tury. Batroun was brought down by the Crusaders and became part of the County of Tripoli by 1110. According to some texts, Batroun’s fortifications were very weak during this epoch; con-sequently, the houses were built close together, transforming the city into an easily defendable, compact “building block.” A fort was erected in the center of the city, where some of its remains are still clearly visible today (6).

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Batroun in HistoryïjQÉàdG »a ¿hôàÑdG

Batroun’s significance declined during the Mamluke period and remained so until the 19th century. The European travelers of the 17th-18th centuries describe it as “ruined and almost abandoned.” By the mid-19th century, Batroun rose from its ashes due to the newly introduced silk industry. The major historic buildings we see today are the best testimony of this development.

Some of Batroun’s MonumentsájôKC’G ¿hôàÑdG ºdÉ©e ¢†©H

1 - The Roman TheaterThe construction of this small theater was launched during

the rule of the Roman emperors Elagabalus (218-222 A.D.) and Alexander Severus (222-235 A.D.) but was never completed. It is carved in the rock on the hill that domi-nates the city to the east at the location known as “Mrah-ech-Chaykh.”

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Harbor

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Mrah-ech-Chaykh

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2 – The Decorated Door at Mrah-ech-Chaykh

The flourishing econ-omy of Batroun dur-ing the second half of the 19th century lead the rich inhabitants of this city to build big houses with orna-mental architecture. An ornamented door near the small Roman theater at Mrah-ech-Chaykh illustrates one example of this archi-tecture. The carvings are similar to the ones of the Saint Georges Church door (5). An inscription dates the door of this house to 1868.

ï«°ûdG ìGôe á ∏ëe »a AÉæH πNóe - 2

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.¿hôàÑdG »a »Ñ©°ûdG øØdG ºdÉ©e øe Ωƒ«dG ô nÑ nà© oJ ,±QÉNRh ¢Tƒ≤æH ÉgƒæqjR kGQhO º¡d

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Some of Batroun’s MonumentsájôKC’G ¿hôàÑdG ºdÉ©e ¢†©H

3 – The SouksThe old souks and houses of Batroun are built of sandstone.

The walls used to be covered with lime mor-tar, a mixture of lime, sand, ash, and goat’s hair. This mixture was then polished to give a smooth and shiny appearance. The small shops in the souks give access to the street through arched openings with big wooden doors. The houses built on the top of the shops over-look the streets through small balconies support-ed by wooden beams or stone corbels.

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4 – Saint Stephen Maronite ChurchBuilt over an older church during the 1860s, Saint Stephen Church is composed of three parallel naves. The current state of the church dates from 1902-1906. The Italian architect who built it incorporated in its architecture different styles that transformed it into a hybrid monument. A series of marble col-umns with Ionic style capitals separate the naves. Two small porches precede the south and north doors of the church, and a large, three-bay porch occupies its northern façade.

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Some of Batroun’s MonumentsájôKC’G ¿hôàÑdG ºdÉ©e ¢†©H

5 – Saint Georges Orthodox Church

This church was constructed in 1867. One enters through a small porch followed by an arched door decorated with star-like geometric motifs and stylized flowers. On top of the door, next to a carving of a chalice and a cross, an inscription dates the construction of the door to 1870. The inside of the church is divided into two sections: the eastern one forms the choir and the western one forms the praying hall. The iconostasis that separates the two sections is ornamented with icons dating back to 1880. A baptismal vat is fitted inside the southwest pillar.

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6 – The FortThis fort was erected in the center of the city during the Crusader period. Qalaoun, the Mamluke Sultan of Egypt, destroyed it around 1289. Some of its stones are still clearly visible today in the lower courses of its western wall.

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Some of Batroun’s MonumentsájôKC’G ¿hôàÑdG ºdÉ©e ¢†©H

7 – The “Lady of the Square” ChurchThis small church, dedicat-ed to the Virgin Mary, was a vaulted room built during the end of the 19th cen-tury on the side of a small public square inside the old city. Its current state is a result of many renovation works done between 1902 and the present time.

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8 – The “Lady of the Sea” ChurchThis small chapel, dedi-cated to the Virgin Mary, is composed of a unique vaulted nave. An iconosta-sis separates the chancel from the praying hall. Its icons date from the year 1860. Two small tombs next to the chapel go back to the same period.

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9-10 – The Quarries and the Sea WallThis 220m long barrier called the “Sea Wall” (10) is a result of a gigantic quarry (9) that exploited the sandstone rocks of the shore since antiquity, especially during the Severan era (end of the 2nd and beginning of the 3rd century A.D.) when Batroun was quite important.

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Ras ech-Chaqa‘a, the promontory to the north of Batroun, domi-nates the sea with its impressive cape acting as a massive natural barrier between the city of Batroun and Tripoli, hence imposing itself as a daring obstacle to all crossing. Its location and history are tightly connected with Batroun’s history: the sea wall (10), the city harbor, and the Mussaylha Fort (A).

Before the earthquake of 551 A.D., Batroun was an indispens-able stopping point in the journey between Tripoli and the southern coastal cities, served by a costal road that followed along the cape connecting the city of Batroun with Tripoli. This road was destroyed by the earthquake, and Batroun was sub-sequently bypassed with two new roads. This is perhaps the reason why Batroun disappeared from historical records until the 12th century A.D.

The Ras ech-Chaqa’a promontory was described without excep-tion by all the travelers, historians, and geographers who visited the region. Over the millenniums, many different names have been used. The Greek historian Polybius (205/200–120/118 B.C.) was the first to mention the name Theou prosopon, meaning “the Face of God.” During the Byzantine period, Lithoprosopon, or “the Face of Stone” was used. It was then translated by Syriac writers as Parsuph Kipa, and by the Arabs to Anf al-Hajar or Wajh al-Hajar, meaning “the Stone Nose” or “the Stone Face.” The Crusader historians named it Puy du Connétable, “the Mount of the General.”

According to the French traveler Laurent d’Arvieux, in 1660, the Francs called it Cap Rouge “the Red Cape” through the alteration of the Arabic word Ouege, meaning “Face.” Jean de La Roque, in 1688, mentioned two new names: Capo Pagro and Cappouge, meaning “the cape of the wind’s door,” or “the cape of the hill,” similar to the name in use today: Ras ech-Chaqa‘a, meaning “the cape of the stone hill.”

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Harbor

Batr

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1

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

Parking

Parking

Parking

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Mrah-ech-chaykh

9

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.É¡«∏Y IógÉ°T

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Following the collapse of the Theouprosopon (the Ras ech-Chaqa’a promontory) in 551 A.D., the coastal road completely disappeared and the northern shoreline was transformed into a high sea cliff. Subsequently, a new road bypassing the promontory from the east was constructed to connect Batroun with Tripoli. This road passes through the Nahr el-Jawz valley from the south, then turns around the Ras ech-Chaqa‘a prom-ontory, reaching the other side at a spot near El-Heri called “Bab el-Hawa,” meaning the “door of the wind.” It was strategi-cally important to build forts to secure this road, as well as to ensure communication and traffic control. The Mussaylha Fort was built for this purpose.

DescriptionThe Mussaylha Fort is constructed on a long, narrow limestone rock near the river Nahr el-Jawz. The thickness of its walls var-ies from 1.5 to 2 meters. The walls are made of small sand-stone blocks quarried from the nearby coast, then built onto the edge of the limestone rock. The bigger limestone blocks are the only remains of an earlier structure probably built for the same defensive reason.

The Fort is made of two architecturally homogenous sections built in two separate phases. It is approached through a nar-row path and a small stairway cut into the northern side of the bedrock. A small platform (A1) precedes the low arched main gate secured with two loopholes and a small opening in the ceiling above the entrance.

The main gate leads to a vaulted vestibule (A2), followed by a narrow triangular courtyard (A3) giving access to a small 1 meter wide passageway (A4) leading up to the archery room (A5) of the west tower. To the southern side of the courtyard, two vaulted bays are constructed within a separate architec-tural block (A6) over large underground vaulted halls used as

Mussaylha (A)(CG) áë∏«°ùªdG á©∏b

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áaôZ ≈dEG … qODƒjh óMGƒdG ôàªdG ¬°VôY õgÉæj (4-CG) ôÑ©e ≈dEG … qODƒJh ,á©∏≤dG §°Sh

á≤Ñ£dG äÉYÉb ióMEG ájhGR »ah .(5-CG) »Hô¨dG á©∏≤dG êôH »a á©bGƒdG ájÉeôdG

äRôaoCG ó≤a ,áÑq∏°üe ÜÉÑ≤H áq«Ñ≤ªdGh áë°ùØdG »HƒæL ⪫bCG »àdG (6-CG) áq«°VQC’G

≈dEG ô«°ûj ɪe ,á∏Ñ p≤dG √ÉéJG ≈∏Y q∫ój (7-CG) kÉHGôëe É¡fƒc ≈∏Y É¡gÉéJG q∫ój áq«æM

.IÓ°üdG áeÉbE’ áYÉ≤dG √òg ¿ƒeóîà°ùj GƒfÉc á©∏≤dG Iɪ oM ¿CG

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ø«°ü°üîàªdGh ø«N qQDƒªdG øe OóY qÖµfG ,IQƒ£N ¢ù∏HGôW-¿hôàÑdG ≥jôW AGõLCG

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.¬bƒa áqjôµ°ùY

Mussaylha Fort

© Salamé-Sarkis, H., 1986 :"Le ch‚teu de Musayliha", AHA vol.5, p.57, fig.2

A

warehouses and cisterns. This part of the building has a small apse (A7) oriented towards the Qibla (south-southwest) that could have been used as a prayer room by the guards.

The more elevated, thus more fortified, eastern part of the fort is accessed through the east side of the main courtyard. A doorway (A8) leads to a hall (A9), followed by three vaulted rooms (A10) giving access to the eastern tower (A11). An inte-rior stairway goes up to the rooms of the first floor (A12). This section is the most fortified and equipped part of the castle because of its strategic position controlling the entrance of the Nahr el-Jawz valley.

HistoryThe strategic and military importance of the Mussaylha Fort urged numbers of scholars to study its history and architecture. However, evidence is inconclusive as to whether the rock on which the Fort stands was used since early times as a military station.

Mussaylha (A)(CG) áë∏«°ùªdG á©∏b

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hCG áªjó≤dG Qƒ°ü©dG âfÉcCG ,á≤HÉ°S äGôàa ≈dEG Oƒ©j ¿CG øµªj AõL …CG Iô°VÉëdG

IQɪ©dG äÉq«æ≤J π«dóH ,ô°ûY ™HÉ°ùdG ¿ô≤dG øe ó©HCG ≈dEG ™LôJ ¿CG øµªj ’h .áqjƒ£°SƒdG

ÜGƒHC’G ¥ƒa AÉ°ù£ØdG ¢SGƒbC’G ΩGóîà°SG º«ª©Jh ,É¡°ù«jÉ≤eh IQÉéëdG Ö«°ü≤Jh

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øµªj ’ »àdGh ,É¡∏Ø°SCG »a áqjôFGO äÉëàa É¡d »àdG ∂∏J ɪq«°S ’ ,πHÉæªdG ∫ɵ°TCG ≈dEG

AÉæH äÉq«æ≤J ≈∏Y ≥Ñ£æj ¬æ«Y ôeC’Gh .áqjQÉf áë∏°SCG ΩGóîà°SG ∫ÉM »a ’EG Égô«°ùØJ

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πH ’ ,ø«q«Ñ«∏°üdG πªY øe ¬fCG ≈∏Y q∫ój Ée AÉæÑdG »a nôj º∏a ¿É°ûjO ∫ƒ> áq«Ñ«∏°üdG

.zIô qNCÉàe Iôàa ≈dEG Oƒ©j ¬fEG

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.(1635 - 1590) z¿ÉæÑd ô«eCG ≈°†e Ée »a ¿Éc …òdG øjódG ôîa ô«eC’G ∫ɪYCG øe

Ωɪàg’G ≥ëà°ùJ ,ô«eC’G IÉah ≈∏Y áæ°S ø«°ùªN ƒëf ó©H »JCÉJ »àdG ,ájGhôdG √ògh

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Qƒ°üæe …QƒîdG OQhCG PEG .øjôNB’G ø«qjQÉÑNC’G ¢†©H ¿É°ùd ≈∏Y ¬æ«Y ïjQCÉàdG AÉL

ÉHG ï«°ûdG ôeCG øjódG ôîa ô«eC’G ¿CG ,1624 áæ°S äGóMCG √Oô°S »a ,»fƒqàëdG

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¿CG ,zÉgQɪY ≈∏Y äGƒæ°S â°S Qhôe ó©H …CG ,1631 áæ°S çGóMCG Oô°S óæY ,¥Éjó°ûdG

.á©∏≤dG »a º«eôJ ∫ɪYCG iôLCG ¬°ùØf ¿RÉîdG QOÉf ÉHCG ï«°ûdG

IôcGP »a øjódG ôîa ô«eC’G ΩÉqjCG »a á©∏≤dG Qɪ©d ïjQÉàc 1624 áæ°S ä qô≤à°SG ó≤d

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∂°T ’ É qªªa ,á≤HÉ°ùdG Qƒ°ü©dG »a âq∏ p oà°SG ób áq«é«JGôà°S’G ™bƒªdG áq«ªgCG âfÉc GPEGh

.ô°ûY ™HÉ°ùdG ¿ô≤dG øe ó©HCG ≈dEG Oƒ©j ¿CG øµªj ’ »dÉëdG É¡©°Vh ¿CG ¬«a

151515

A

BC

D

000 500 1 kmk

Musseylha Fort

© SalamÈ-Sarkis, H., 1986 :"Le ch‚teu de Musayliha", AHA vol.5, p.57, fig.2

A1

A2

A3

A4

A5

A6

A7

A9

A11

A12

A8

A

A10

Intermediate Floor

First Floor

Ground Floor

The Fort does not include in its current construction any ele-ment that could be related to an earlier period, even to the Crusades. The construction techniques, the size of the con-struction stone blocks and their cutting techniques, the low arched doors and windows, in addition to other elements, sug-gest the 17th century as the earliest date for the current Fort to have been built.

The year 1624 is established by both historians and eye witnesses as the construction date of Mussaylha by Fakhr ed-Dine II. Even if the strategic importance of the site of Mussaylha was exploited since antiquity, the actual state of the Fort cannot be dated earlier than the 17th century.

KoubbaÉÑc

≈∏Y QƒHÉ°S ¿É°S á°ù«æc ™≤J ¿hôàÑdG øe ∫ɪ°ûdG ≈dEG øjôàeƒ∏«c ƒëf ó©H ≈∏Y

»a áéJôØdG ΩÉ qjCG ≈dEG É¡FÉæH ïjQÉJ Oƒ©jh .RƒédG ô¡f ≈∏Y ±ô°ûoJ »àdG É qÑc áq∏J á qªb

.ô°ûY »fÉãdG ¿ô≤dG øe »fÉãdG ∞°üædG

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© SalamÈ-Sarkis, H., 1986 :"Le ch‚teu de Musayliha", AHA vol.5, p.57, fig.2

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Intermediate Floor

First Floor

Ground Floor

The village of Koubba, on the coast 2 km north of Batroun, is sit-uated in a wooded landscape just north of the river Nahr el-Jawz, with a small Crusader church built on the top of a little hill.

B- Church of Sansabour The well preserved 12th century Church of Sansabour (“the Holy Savior”) has a unique nave covered with a broken arched vault with an apse oriented to the east and accessed through a double arched door. Above the main door, an oculus is opened in the façade of the chapel. This façade also has mortise holes indicating the anchorage points of the framework that once supported a porch. On its north side, this porch included a baptistery, whose plan recalls the one of the Saint John Church of Byblos (Jbail). Inside the church, to the left of the main entrance, a stairway leads to the roof.

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Original text in Arabic by Dr. Hassan Salamé-Sarkis. English Translation by Assaad Seif. Maps: Assaad Seif.

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D- Prehistoric Caves In front of Sansabour, on the opposite side of the former road of Tripoli, a number of prehistoric caves can be seen in the limestone cliff. One was transformed into an oratory dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. The entrance of the cave has recently been blocked by a wall with a locked wooden door.

C- Saint James Church To the east of the foothill of Sansabour, an oratory is dedicated to Mar Yaaqoub, or Saint James. It is constructed on the remains of a Crusader church, which occupied the site of a former Byzantine church, constructed with materials from a Roman temple. Unfortunate-ly, some enthusiastic donors, unaware of the heritage value of the site, collected the archaeological building blocks, some of which still have traces of wall paintings, to use them in the construction of a platform covered with concrete around the oratory. Nevertheless, a Roman altar is still visible at the base of the wall of a nearby dwelling.

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Glossary

Altar: Raised platform or structure where sacrifices are offered and religious rites are performed.

Apse: Semi-circular area at east end of a church, often with a domed or vaulted roof.

Capital: An upper part of a column.

Choir: The eastern part of a church containing the altar.

Corbels: An L-shaped architectural element or bracket made of stone or wood fixed to the wall, which supports a balcony or other type of light structures.

Iconostasis: A wooden or marble screen with doors and icons, set in tiers, which separates the sanctuary of a church from the nave.

Ionic: A Greek architectural style characterized by capitals with spirals on the sides.

Marl: A fine-grained sedimentary rock consisting of clay minerals, calcium carbonate and silt.

Mortise: A slot or recess cut into a stone, to receive a matching projection (tenon) of another piece (here, a wooden beam).

Nave: The central space in a church.

Niyabat: A regional political affiliation or rank (vice-sultanate).

Oculus: Word of Latin origin meaning “the bull’s eye.” It is a small opening or window in a façade of a church situated over the main door.

Oratory: A small room or secluded place, set apart for private prayer.

Promontory: A high ridge of rock or land jetting out into a body of water.

Qibla: The direction towards Mecca.