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21/10/19 1 2019 - 2020 ACADEMIC YEAR FASHION MANAGEMENT COURSE Carlo Fei October 10 th and 18 th 2019 © Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS 1 Lesson 7 and 8 RETAIL 1 October 17 th 17.00/19.30 Customer Experience Audit meet at Galleria Alberto Sordi at 5 p.m. INSTRUCTIONS download and print file excel to fulfil as explained during our lesson organize in sub-groups of max. 3 per each visit coordinate with your colleagues to act and register all items scoring 1 to 5 according to the CX audit scale fulfil both numbers and comments , write names of the team send to the teaching team 1 file per visit (not per participant) and write the names of the 3 members of the team remember and note (you may register pretending to phone to somebody) music and scent as they are the easiest to forget Complete visits and send report to all the teaching team members by November 8 th N.B.: All members of each Group should visit all the assigned stores 2 Carlo Fei © Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS outdoor activity 2
Transcript
Page 1: LESSON 7&8 october 10th and 18th 2019 FASHION …docenti.luiss.it/protected-uploads/596/2019/10/... · 2019-10-21 · Brandslike Sephora, Zara, H&M focused on the concept and used

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1

2019-2020 ACADEMIC YEAR

FASHION MANAGEMENT COURSE

Carlo Fei

October 10th and 18th 2019

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS 1

Lesson 7 and 8 RETAIL

1

October 17th

17.00/19.30Customer Experience Audit

meet at Galleria Alberto Sordi at 5 p.m.

INSTRUCTIONSdownload and print file excel to fulfil as explained during our lessonorganize in sub-groups of max. 3 per each visitcoordinate with your colleagues to act and register all items scoring 1 to 5 according to the CX audit scalefulfil both numbers and comments , write names of the team send to the teaching team 1 file per visit (not per participant) and write the names of the 3 members of the teamremember and note (you may register pretending to phone to somebody) music and scent as they are the easiest to forget Complete visits and send report to all the teaching team members by November 8th

N.B.: All members of each Group should visit all the assigned stores2

Car

lo F

ei

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

outdoor activity

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RETAIL3

Car

lo F

ei

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Retail

Brand Style Experience Production Logistic

DistributionRetail

Finance Planning

MKTG Communication

MerchandisingPlanning

Customer Knowledge

4© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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But what is Retail?

5© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Definition:

THE SALE OF GOODS OR ARTICLES INDIVIDUALLY OR IN SMALL QUANTITIES DIRECTLY TO THE CONSUMER

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Is Retail only the process, the moment and the place in which the product is

sold or is it also something else?

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Car

lo F

el

Please take 10 minutes and give your mostexhaustive definitions(no wikipedia definitions pls.)

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Source: Jean- Baptiste Danet, CEO of Interbrand Europe

In retail, the experience is the act of shopping, online, in catalog, or inthe store.

The retail brand comes to life through the touchpoints of its physicaldelivery—the selective mix, color, and packaging of merchandise, thetone and manner of the employees, and the space that’s beenenriched with lighting, images, music, and fragrance, that ultimatelyinfluences a shopper’s purchase decisions.The experiences are everything that matters.

It is the creation of that which is symbolized by the brand’s mark, itsvisual and verbal assets, and creates a lasting emotional bond forshoppers.

The experience is the Brand

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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In the 1960’s, consumers discovered supermarkets and hypermarketsand huge offers that fostered the discount concept.

In the 1990’s, we saw a new generation of specialized retailers reinventthe retail business.

Brands like Sephora, Zara, H&M focused on the concept and used everytouch point (from space to service) to reinforce this concept.In other words, they acted like a brand.

SINCE THEN, BRAND AND RETAIL HAVE BECOME

INSEPARABLE.

Brand and Retail

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Car

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How can Retail influence the success of a Brand?The store is a physical

expression of the brand and provides a powerful opportunity to make emotional connections and influence choice.

Brand is the way you do business. It is what makesyou different: Brand isn’t just the logo, it’s the physicalreal-time delivery of the promise your brand makes—an experience the consumer will undergo—shopping.

Source: Lee Carpenter, CEO of Interbrand Design Forum and Interbrand North America

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Car

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How can Retail influence the success of a Brand?

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

“When you walk into a store, you are entering a brand…”

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Retail identity

The integrated system of policies related to the spaceplanning, merchandising, design and visual communication

The point of sale contributes to the creation of the totalbrand experience

The same brand is in different places at the same time butit should speak the same language

Retail architecture and Service design must communicatethe brand values

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Car

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Retail identity

Prada in 2001 opened the Prada Epicentre in NYC.Beautiful store, great Idea and really innovative experience.

But it didn’t work completely and the results wheredisappointing: see theVIDEO and tell us why.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pXNYciHCLc

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Retail

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Car

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Source: Corbellini Saviolo 2009 © Copyright 2008-2017 Carlo Fei for LUISS

BUT WHAT DO WE MEAN WITH RETAIL IDENTITY?

BRAND IDENTITY

RETAIL IDENTITY

COMMUNICATION IDENTITYSTYLISTIC IDENTITY

Socio Economic ContextFirm Heritage, Resources and Competences

Product Strategy Distribution Strategy Communication Strategy

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

IDENTITY

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Retail

14

Car

lo F

ei

© Copyright 2008-2017 Carlo Fei for LUISS

THE TWO SIDES OF THE RETAIL IDENTITY

RETAIL IDENTITY

PERCEIVED IDENTITY

(Customer)

DESIRED IDENTITY(Company)

?

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Car

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RetailTHE GAP BETWEEN D.I. AND P.I.

Questions of identity are clearly central to Fashion Marketing.Corporate identity is increasingly popular in the retailingindustry. Nevertheless there is limited empirical research onCorporate Identity (Blamer, 1998; Cornellisseng and Elving, 2003).Research tends to focus more on the gap between desiredidentity and actual identity (Kiriakidou and Millward, 2000)

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Corporate Identity is about how an organization presents itself to the

public and the stakeholders and how an organization distinguishes

itself from other organizations(Markwick and Fill 1997)

SO WHAT?

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Car

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RetailCorporate identity Mix (Schmidt 1995 and Balmer and Soenen 1999)

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

P.I.Corporate Culture (SOUL)

Corporate Behaviour (MIND)

Products and Services (BODY)

Communicationsand Design

(VOICE)

Market Conditions and

Strategies (MIND)

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Car

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RetailWork on the C.I. mix (and imagine it in the fashion mkt…)

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

TO CONTROL YOUR P.I. FOCUS ON RETAIL

RETAIL

IDENTITYCorporate

Culture (SOUL)

Corporate Behaviour

(MIND)

Products and Services (BODY)

Communicationsand Design

(VOICE)

Market Conditions and

Strategies(MIND)

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WHAT RETAIL BUSINESS MODEL IS MOST SUITABLE FOR A BRAND

(and for your brand)?

© Copyright 2008-2017 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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THE FASHION PIPELINE(simplified)

Chemical Industry

Farming Agricolture

Wool Cotton

Silk

Man-made Fibres

Wool Cotton

SilkSPINNING

Process for

technical yarns

Knitting/Fabrics

AP

PAR

EL MA

KIN

G

DISTR

IBU

TIO

N R

ETAIL

TEXTILE MACHINERY INDUSTRY

TEXTILE CLOTHING

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS Source: Corbellini Saviolo 2009

INNOVATION

BUYER CHAIN (DOWNSTREAM)

SUPPLY CHAIN (UPSTREAM)

EVERYTHING CAN BE OUTSOURCED!!!

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Retail

MAKE TO ORDERand

MAKE TO STOCKCar

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Overview of the traditional supply chains

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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RetailMAKE TO ORDER

(bottom-up)MAKE TO STOCK

(top-down)Building the seasonal

sample collection

Presenting the collection

Acquiring orders

Launching production

Delivering products

Sales forecast

Production Planning

Production launch

Sales

Delivering products

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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RetailMAKE TO ORDER

Is the traditional logic for high end designers

The company produces only what has been sold to retail clients during the presentation of the collection →minimize unsold stocks

The order is the starting point of the productive and logistic process

The sales process starts with the presentation of the collection to the sales network

22© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Car

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RetailMAKE TO ORDER

Longer time to market: up to 9 months

Minimize risk: lower leftover stock

Advantage: cash flow predictable

Disadvantage: the company is far away from the market

Today, this model is intagrated by a portion of the collection delivered through the make to stock model

23© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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RetailMAKE TO STOCK

This business logic applies to both companies working onbasics and to fast fashion companies

The company produces on the basis of a sales forecast →guarantees a rapid delivery time

The order marks the beginning of the distribution process

Short lead times: up to 3 weeks

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Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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RetailMAKE TO STOCK

Shorter time to market: maximum 2 months

Advantage: quick market response

Disadvantage: challenging the brand building. No investement inthe image

Traditionally quick fashion companies were followers and thecritical success factor was the quick response of the pipeline!!!

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Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Today, this model is intagreted by a portion of the collectiondelivered through the make to order model

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Retail

TODAY: Toward a make to stock and make toorder mixed model

WHY?

SPEED AND MARKET PROXIMITYMANTAINING BRAND IDENTITY

26© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Selling process

TO OBTAIN CUSTOMER ORDERS AS QUICKLY ASPOSSIBLE.

In the Make to Order logic, the order is the startingpoint of the productive and logistic process.

In the Make to Stock, the order is an information forthe beginning of the distribution process.C

arlo

Fei

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Selling processPresentation of

collection to the sales force

Budgeting

Presenting the collection to customers

Acquiring orders

Managing after sales service

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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The Sales Fashion and Luxury Company OrganizationRETAIL

DIRECTOR

REGIONAL MGR

STORE MGRs

S.A.s

DISTRIBUTION MGR

AGENTS

CORPORATE SALES MGR

KEY ACCOUNT

DOS Wholesaler andMultibrand S Dep.S

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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The sales structure

DOS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

WHICH FITS BETTER?(to your Brand)

Wholesaler and

Multibrand S(and Franchaisee)

Dep.S

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The distribution and retailing strategy

THE “FASHION MODEL”(i.e.: GUCCI, PRADA, etc.)

Car

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DOS Wholesaler andMultibrand S Dep.S

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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The distribution and retailing strategy

THE “LUXURY MODEL”(L.V., Hermès, etc.)

Car

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*Only in territories that require it

Franchaisee*

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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The distribution and retailing strategy

MAIN DRIVERSand

PRIORITIESCar

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

LUXURYvs

FASHION

FINANCIAL STRENGHT

CONTROLvs

Territorial expansion

QUI

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the tesco innovative retail approach in Korea (video)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGaVFRzTTP4

the retail evolution (video)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRvaWHk3A8k

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THE STORES

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Retail

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Stores

RETAIL

FLAGSHIP STORE

CITY

SHOP IN

SHOP

SEASONAL

TRAVEL RETAIL

OUTLETSCORNERS

CONCEPT STORES

POP UP STORES

WEB STORE

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

THE DIFFERENT STORE TYPOLOGIES

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

PRIORITIES

LOCATION

REFURBISHING

HR

STORE PLANNING

ROI PLANNING

BUSINESS AND LOCAL IMPACT

MKT and COMPANY

KEY MONEY RENTING, etc

TIME AND COSTS

SELECTION and TRAINING

LAY OUT ASSORTMENT SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) VISUAL MERCHANDISING

IRR (Internal Rate of Return)

Business Performances(Conversion Rate Cross

Selling Rate, Ticket per Sale, etc)

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

PRIORITY MKT and COMPANY

Strategic Plan: Planning on MKT trends,Surveys, Company obljectives and investments,Local Potential and Competitive Analisys…(aFlagship can generate up to 140* million €…)*estimated Revenue for Louis Vuitton Flagship in Paris

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

LOCATIONPLACE, KEY

MONEY RENTING, etc

Location Analysis: traffic, influence, costs(key money, Rentals, maintenance, etc)

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

REFURBISHING TIME AND COSTS

Time and Costs (Project, refurbishing -upto 9/10k€/square meter-)

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

HUMAN RESOURCES

SELECTION AND TRAINING

HR Selection, training and (high) turnover, timing and costs planning

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

STORE PLANNING

LAY OUT ASSORTMENT SKU (Stock Keeping

Unit) VISUAL MERCHANDISING

Lay out, assortment priority approach, SKUrotation planning, Visual Merchandising planning:Accessories, Apparel, Collections (3 collections inthe same time) 2 from F.S., Cruise, Fall/Winter andSummer.

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

RETURN ON INVESTMENT

PLANNINGIRR (Internal Rate

of Return)

Return on investment plan (normally totalcosts amortisation lasts 5 to 8 years) butusually stores must produce margin by 1styear.

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.

StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS

Car

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

BUSINESS AND LOCAL IMPACT

Business Performances(Conversion Rate Cross SellingRate, Ticket per Sale, Retention

Rate, Sale per Sq/meter, etc)

To measure a store performance many metricsand index could be used, we already talkedabout some of them, just remember ConversionRate Cross Selling Rate, Ticket per Sale,Retention Rate, etc. (see next slides)

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SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) ?Stores: visual merchandising index

DEFINITION by Doug Brinlee (America Solutions for Business)

An SKU is a stock number used by businesses and merchantsthat allows them to track inventory and services from point ofdistribution to point of sale. SKU is a type of data managementsystem. Each individual item or package is given a code eitherby the distributor or the business owner. There is an SKU codeapplied to every product, item, or other forms of goods that canbe purchased by a customer.In fashion SKU must include the style number and the color.Some prefer to also include the size, This is not wrong but notreally consistent with the objective of the SKU.

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ZARA: Exemple of fast fashion

“This business is all about reducingresponse time. In Fashion stock is like food. It goesbad quick”

by Chief Executive of Inditex Josè Maria CastellanoCar

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RETAIL PERFORMANCE MEASUREMENT

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Retail

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NET SALES

Tickets#

AVG Basket€

AVG Price€

i.e.BAGS

UPT#

HIGH Tickets€

HIGH Tickets#

Sell 2(%)

On Transaction

Retail KPIs (1/3)

Conversion Rate (%)

Footflow#

VAT and Mark-Down are excluded

Number of transactions

Number of people visiting

the store

Ratio between Tickets and

Footflow

AVG value of tickets

# pcsper each ticket

AVG value of each item

Cross-sellingtransactions

(>= 2 different product categories)

AVG price of a specific product

category

Special tickets with a value higher than a certain amount

SALES PERFORMANCE

CRRCustomerRetention

Rate

CRR = (CT1-NC)/CT0 CT1: End # customersNC: New customersCT0: Initial # customers

Loyalty KPI(# of retained

customers)

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Sell-Through(%)

Sales of previous

12 months

Retail KPIs (2/3)

Total ordered merchandise(or bought or

delivered)

Sales

MOC(Month of Coverage)

#

Stockon hand

RollingSales

It indicates the performance of an

entire market or product category

or an item

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Stock available in store

It indicates if the stock capacity is able to cover the

sales trendThe target should

not be 100%-> It would mean

that the item could run out of stock

Product category mix (%)

It indicates the weight of each

product category

Total of all product

categories

Product category

A

PRODUCT PERFORMANCE

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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Net Sales/SQM€

Retail KPIs (3/3)Net Sales/FTE

It indicates the productivity of a

store by its surface

SQM: squaremeters of thestore.It could refer tothe total surface oronly to the «pureselling» one

Rent/Net Sales(%)

Net Sales of the Store

RentExpenses

FTE: full timeequivalent.1 employee on a full-time basis-> to normalize thepresence of part-timeor special contractemployees

It indicates if the store itself can

sustain one of the main cost

It indicates the productivity of the sales force

STORE PERFORMANCE

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

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RETAIL INNOVATION

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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Retail

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Pop up store: a temporary experience

It's about surprising consumers with temporary 'performances', guaranteeing exclusivity because of the limited timespan

From individual designers teaming up, to real estate agents making better use of vacant properties, to big brands looking to add a bit of 'cool' and agility to their otherwise fixed locations and massive flagship stores

The whole concept gives consumers something that can be perceived as exclusive, discovery-driven and ‘get it while it lasts‘!

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS 52

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A pop-up store opens up at an empty retail location for a few days in a major city, or a mall, with great fanfare. And then, poof! It's gone.

In 2007 Nike opened a pop-up store in Soho for just four days for the sole purpose of selling 250 pairs of the Zoom LeBron IV NYC basketball shoes, named after the popular 22-year-old NBA All-Star LeBron

James. The special edition shoes were priced at $250 each.

Pop up store: a temporary experience

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Ralph lauren: window shopping interactive experiencePolo Ralph Lauren has redefined window shopping by launching an unparalleled window shopping experience at their Michigan Avenue Flagship store, allowing customers to shop from outside of the store with the touch of their hand - 24 hours a day.

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Shopping in Second life (The Big Fail)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cvmTdoru1I

http://www.youtube.com/user/Secondlife#p/a/2A050B7242D8864E/0/z3gHCupXSMs

WHAT IS SECOND LIFE?

SHOPPING IN SECOND LIFE

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the increasing importance of FOOD and ENTERTAINMENT in FASHION

Eatertainment= Catering + Entertainment

Retailtainment= Retail+ Entertainment

Ex. Starbucks with the “coffee shop library” where you can both nourish yourself and your Soul

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Unique retail experience is an effective and powerful leverage as long as 2 key principles

are respected: consistency in delivering customer service above expectations and a

very good integration between on-line and off-line channels.

Key factor for new retail experience (NEW)

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- Alignment of the brand content and consumer experience- Synergy across different marketing channels (from searching information on-line to browsing and purchasing in a physical store)*- Ability of brands to customize the interaction with consumers depending on their status (new comers, loyal consumers, info seekers…).

Key factors for new retail experience (NEW)

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*ROPO Research Online Purchase Offline TOPO Test/Try Offline Purchase Online

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EXERCISES

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Car

lo F

ei

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Retail

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Group 10 Peter Marino

Group 9 Rem Koolhaas

Group 3 Claudio Silvestrin

Group 4 Jean Nouvel

Group 1 Paolo Giachi

Deepening Retail Lectures and introducing Communication LecturesDeepen at home and make your own group presentation on

© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

InstructionsEach Group on Friday Nov 8th will be asked to give their presentation. Few slides (prepare a key to upload on the class PC) on main topics: who theyare, their Biography, Brands theycollaborated with, most important storesthey designed.Consider 5 (max.) minutes for eachpresentation.

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Group 5 Mario Testino

Group 6 Bruce Weber

Group 7 Peter Lindbergh

Group 8 Annie Leibovitz

Group 2 David LaChapelle© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS

Introducing Fashion Communication Lectures Deepen at home and make your own presentation on

InstructionsEach Group on Thursday October 18th

will be asked to give their presentation. Few slides (prepare a key to upload on the class PC) on main topics: who theyare, their Biography, Brands theycollaborated with and their mostimportant adv campaign and famouspictures.Consider 5 (max.) minutes for eachpresentation.

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Neiman MarcusSelfridgesLe Bon MarchéBarneysCOINLa Rinascente

Deepening Retail LecturesTake 5 minutes and make your own presentation on

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