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2019-2020 ACADEMIC YEAR
FASHION MANAGEMENT COURSE
Carlo Fei
October 10th and 18th 2019
© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS 1
Lesson 7 and 8 RETAIL
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October 17th
17.00/19.30Customer Experience Audit
meet at Galleria Alberto Sordi at 5 p.m.
INSTRUCTIONSdownload and print file excel to fulfil as explained during our lessonorganize in sub-groups of max. 3 per each visitcoordinate with your colleagues to act and register all items scoring 1 to 5 according to the CX audit scalefulfil both numbers and comments , write names of the team send to the teaching team 1 file per visit (not per participant) and write the names of the 3 members of the teamremember and note (you may register pretending to phone to somebody) music and scent as they are the easiest to forget Complete visits and send report to all the teaching team members by November 8th
N.B.: All members of each Group should visit all the assigned stores2
Car
lo F
ei
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outdoor activity
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RETAIL3
Car
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Retail
Brand Style Experience Production Logistic
DistributionRetail
Finance Planning
MKTG Communication
MerchandisingPlanning
Customer Knowledge
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But what is Retail?
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Definition:
THE SALE OF GOODS OR ARTICLES INDIVIDUALLY OR IN SMALL QUANTITIES DIRECTLY TO THE CONSUMER
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Is Retail only the process, the moment and the place in which the product is
sold or is it also something else?
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Car
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el
Please take 10 minutes and give your mostexhaustive definitions(no wikipedia definitions pls.)
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Source: Jean- Baptiste Danet, CEO of Interbrand Europe
In retail, the experience is the act of shopping, online, in catalog, or inthe store.
The retail brand comes to life through the touchpoints of its physicaldelivery—the selective mix, color, and packaging of merchandise, thetone and manner of the employees, and the space that’s beenenriched with lighting, images, music, and fragrance, that ultimatelyinfluences a shopper’s purchase decisions.The experiences are everything that matters.
It is the creation of that which is symbolized by the brand’s mark, itsvisual and verbal assets, and creates a lasting emotional bond forshoppers.
The experience is the Brand
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In the 1960’s, consumers discovered supermarkets and hypermarketsand huge offers that fostered the discount concept.
In the 1990’s, we saw a new generation of specialized retailers reinventthe retail business.
Brands like Sephora, Zara, H&M focused on the concept and used everytouch point (from space to service) to reinforce this concept.In other words, they acted like a brand.
SINCE THEN, BRAND AND RETAIL HAVE BECOME
INSEPARABLE.
Brand and Retail
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How can Retail influence the success of a Brand?The store is a physical
expression of the brand and provides a powerful opportunity to make emotional connections and influence choice.
Brand is the way you do business. It is what makesyou different: Brand isn’t just the logo, it’s the physicalreal-time delivery of the promise your brand makes—an experience the consumer will undergo—shopping.
Source: Lee Carpenter, CEO of Interbrand Design Forum and Interbrand North America
© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
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How can Retail influence the success of a Brand?
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“When you walk into a store, you are entering a brand…”
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Retail identity
The integrated system of policies related to the spaceplanning, merchandising, design and visual communication
The point of sale contributes to the creation of the totalbrand experience
The same brand is in different places at the same time butit should speak the same language
Retail architecture and Service design must communicatethe brand values
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Retail identity
Prada in 2001 opened the Prada Epicentre in NYC.Beautiful store, great Idea and really innovative experience.
But it didn’t work completely and the results wheredisappointing: see theVIDEO and tell us why.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pXNYciHCLc
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Retail
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Car
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Source: Corbellini Saviolo 2009 © Copyright 2008-2017 Carlo Fei for LUISS
BUT WHAT DO WE MEAN WITH RETAIL IDENTITY?
BRAND IDENTITY
RETAIL IDENTITY
COMMUNICATION IDENTITYSTYLISTIC IDENTITY
Socio Economic ContextFirm Heritage, Resources and Competences
Product Strategy Distribution Strategy Communication Strategy
CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE
IDENTITY
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Retail
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Car
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THE TWO SIDES OF THE RETAIL IDENTITY
RETAIL IDENTITY
PERCEIVED IDENTITY
(Customer)
DESIRED IDENTITY(Company)
?
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Car
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RetailTHE GAP BETWEEN D.I. AND P.I.
Questions of identity are clearly central to Fashion Marketing.Corporate identity is increasingly popular in the retailingindustry. Nevertheless there is limited empirical research onCorporate Identity (Blamer, 1998; Cornellisseng and Elving, 2003).Research tends to focus more on the gap between desiredidentity and actual identity (Kiriakidou and Millward, 2000)
© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
Corporate Identity is about how an organization presents itself to the
public and the stakeholders and how an organization distinguishes
itself from other organizations(Markwick and Fill 1997)
SO WHAT?
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RetailCorporate identity Mix (Schmidt 1995 and Balmer and Soenen 1999)
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P.I.Corporate Culture (SOUL)
Corporate Behaviour (MIND)
Products and Services (BODY)
Communicationsand Design
(VOICE)
Market Conditions and
Strategies (MIND)
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RetailWork on the C.I. mix (and imagine it in the fashion mkt…)
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TO CONTROL YOUR P.I. FOCUS ON RETAIL
RETAIL
IDENTITYCorporate
Culture (SOUL)
Corporate Behaviour
(MIND)
Products and Services (BODY)
Communicationsand Design
(VOICE)
Market Conditions and
Strategies(MIND)
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WHAT RETAIL BUSINESS MODEL IS MOST SUITABLE FOR A BRAND
(and for your brand)?
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Car
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THE FASHION PIPELINE(simplified)
Chemical Industry
Farming Agricolture
Wool Cotton
Silk
Man-made Fibres
Wool Cotton
SilkSPINNING
Process for
technical yarns
Knitting/Fabrics
AP
PAR
EL MA
KIN
G
DISTR
IBU
TIO
N R
ETAIL
TEXTILE MACHINERY INDUSTRY
TEXTILE CLOTHING
© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS Source: Corbellini Saviolo 2009
INNOVATION
BUYER CHAIN (DOWNSTREAM)
SUPPLY CHAIN (UPSTREAM)
EVERYTHING CAN BE OUTSOURCED!!!
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Retail
MAKE TO ORDERand
MAKE TO STOCKCar
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Overview of the traditional supply chains
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RetailMAKE TO ORDER
(bottom-up)MAKE TO STOCK
(top-down)Building the seasonal
sample collection
Presenting the collection
Acquiring orders
Launching production
Delivering products
Sales forecast
Production Planning
Production launch
Sales
Delivering products
Car
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RetailMAKE TO ORDER
Is the traditional logic for high end designers
The company produces only what has been sold to retail clients during the presentation of the collection →minimize unsold stocks
The order is the starting point of the productive and logistic process
The sales process starts with the presentation of the collection to the sales network
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RetailMAKE TO ORDER
Longer time to market: up to 9 months
Minimize risk: lower leftover stock
Advantage: cash flow predictable
Disadvantage: the company is far away from the market
Today, this model is intagrated by a portion of the collection delivered through the make to stock model
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RetailMAKE TO STOCK
This business logic applies to both companies working onbasics and to fast fashion companies
The company produces on the basis of a sales forecast →guarantees a rapid delivery time
The order marks the beginning of the distribution process
Short lead times: up to 3 weeks
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RetailMAKE TO STOCK
Shorter time to market: maximum 2 months
Advantage: quick market response
Disadvantage: challenging the brand building. No investement inthe image
Traditionally quick fashion companies were followers and thecritical success factor was the quick response of the pipeline!!!
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Car
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
Today, this model is intagreted by a portion of the collectiondelivered through the make to order model
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Retail
TODAY: Toward a make to stock and make toorder mixed model
WHY?
SPEED AND MARKET PROXIMITYMANTAINING BRAND IDENTITY
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Selling process
TO OBTAIN CUSTOMER ORDERS AS QUICKLY ASPOSSIBLE.
In the Make to Order logic, the order is the startingpoint of the productive and logistic process.
In the Make to Stock, the order is an information forthe beginning of the distribution process.C
arlo
Fei
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Selling processPresentation of
collection to the sales force
Budgeting
Presenting the collection to customers
Acquiring orders
Managing after sales service
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The Sales Fashion and Luxury Company OrganizationRETAIL
DIRECTOR
REGIONAL MGR
STORE MGRs
S.A.s
DISTRIBUTION MGR
AGENTS
CORPORATE SALES MGR
KEY ACCOUNT
DOS Wholesaler andMultibrand S Dep.S
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The sales structure
DOS
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WHICH FITS BETTER?(to your Brand)
Wholesaler and
Multibrand S(and Franchaisee)
Dep.S
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The distribution and retailing strategy
THE “FASHION MODEL”(i.e.: GUCCI, PRADA, etc.)
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DOS Wholesaler andMultibrand S Dep.S
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The distribution and retailing strategy
THE “LUXURY MODEL”(L.V., Hermès, etc.)
Car
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*Only in territories that require it
Franchaisee*
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The distribution and retailing strategy
MAIN DRIVERSand
PRIORITIESCar
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LUXURYvs
FASHION
FINANCIAL STRENGHT
CONTROLvs
Territorial expansion
QUI
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the tesco innovative retail approach in Korea (video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGaVFRzTTP4
the retail evolution (video)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRvaWHk3A8k
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THE STORES
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Retail
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Stores
RETAIL
FLAGSHIP STORE
CITY
SHOP IN
SHOP
SEASONAL
TRAVEL RETAIL
OUTLETSCORNERS
CONCEPT STORES
POP UP STORES
WEB STORE
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Car
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THE DIFFERENT STORE TYPOLOGIES
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
Car
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PRIORITIES
LOCATION
REFURBISHING
HR
STORE PLANNING
ROI PLANNING
BUSINESS AND LOCAL IMPACT
MKT and COMPANY
KEY MONEY RENTING, etc
TIME AND COSTS
SELECTION and TRAINING
LAY OUT ASSORTMENT SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) VISUAL MERCHANDISING
IRR (Internal Rate of Return)
Business Performances(Conversion Rate Cross
Selling Rate, Ticket per Sale, etc)
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
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PRIORITY MKT and COMPANY
Strategic Plan: Planning on MKT trends,Surveys, Company obljectives and investments,Local Potential and Competitive Analisys…(aFlagship can generate up to 140* million €…)*estimated Revenue for Louis Vuitton Flagship in Paris
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
LOCATIONPLACE, KEY
MONEY RENTING, etc
Location Analysis: traffic, influence, costs(key money, Rentals, maintenance, etc)
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
REFURBISHING TIME AND COSTS
Time and Costs (Project, refurbishing -upto 9/10k€/square meter-)
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
Car
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
HUMAN RESOURCES
SELECTION AND TRAINING
HR Selection, training and (high) turnover, timing and costs planning
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
Car
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
STORE PLANNING
LAY OUT ASSORTMENT SKU (Stock Keeping
Unit) VISUAL MERCHANDISING
Lay out, assortment priority approach, SKUrotation planning, Visual Merchandising planning:Accessories, Apparel, Collections (3 collections inthe same time) 2 from F.S., Cruise, Fall/Winter andSummer.
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
RETURN ON INVESTMENT
PLANNINGIRR (Internal Rate
of Return)
Return on investment plan (normally totalcosts amortisation lasts 5 to 8 years) butusually stores must produce margin by 1styear.
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StoresHOW TO INSTALL A STORE: THE PROCESS
Car
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© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
BUSINESS AND LOCAL IMPACT
Business Performances(Conversion Rate Cross SellingRate, Ticket per Sale, Retention
Rate, Sale per Sq/meter, etc)
To measure a store performance many metricsand index could be used, we already talkedabout some of them, just remember ConversionRate Cross Selling Rate, Ticket per Sale,Retention Rate, etc. (see next slides)
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SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) ?Stores: visual merchandising index
DEFINITION by Doug Brinlee (America Solutions for Business)
An SKU is a stock number used by businesses and merchantsthat allows them to track inventory and services from point ofdistribution to point of sale. SKU is a type of data managementsystem. Each individual item or package is given a code eitherby the distributor or the business owner. There is an SKU codeapplied to every product, item, or other forms of goods that canbe purchased by a customer.In fashion SKU must include the style number and the color.Some prefer to also include the size, This is not wrong but notreally consistent with the objective of the SKU.
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ZARA: Exemple of fast fashion
“This business is all about reducingresponse time. In Fashion stock is like food. It goesbad quick”
by Chief Executive of Inditex Josè Maria CastellanoCar
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RETAIL PERFORMANCE MEASUREMENT
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Retail
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NET SALES
Tickets#
AVG Basket€
AVG Price€
i.e.BAGS
UPT#
HIGH Tickets€
HIGH Tickets#
Sell 2(%)
On Transaction
Retail KPIs (1/3)
Conversion Rate (%)
Footflow#
VAT and Mark-Down are excluded
Number of transactions
Number of people visiting
the store
Ratio between Tickets and
Footflow
AVG value of tickets
# pcsper each ticket
AVG value of each item
Cross-sellingtransactions
(>= 2 different product categories)
AVG price of a specific product
category
Special tickets with a value higher than a certain amount
SALES PERFORMANCE
CRRCustomerRetention
Rate
CRR = (CT1-NC)/CT0 CT1: End # customersNC: New customersCT0: Initial # customers
Loyalty KPI(# of retained
customers)
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Sell-Through(%)
Sales of previous
12 months
Retail KPIs (2/3)
Total ordered merchandise(or bought or
delivered)
Sales
MOC(Month of Coverage)
#
Stockon hand
RollingSales
It indicates the performance of an
entire market or product category
or an item
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Stock available in store
It indicates if the stock capacity is able to cover the
sales trendThe target should
not be 100%-> It would mean
that the item could run out of stock
Product category mix (%)
It indicates the weight of each
product category
Total of all product
categories
Product category
A
PRODUCT PERFORMANCE
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Net Sales/SQM€
Retail KPIs (3/3)Net Sales/FTE
€
It indicates the productivity of a
store by its surface
SQM: squaremeters of thestore.It could refer tothe total surface oronly to the «pureselling» one
Rent/Net Sales(%)
Net Sales of the Store
RentExpenses
FTE: full timeequivalent.1 employee on a full-time basis-> to normalize thepresence of part-timeor special contractemployees
It indicates if the store itself can
sustain one of the main cost
It indicates the productivity of the sales force
STORE PERFORMANCE
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RETAIL INNOVATION
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Retail
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Pop up store: a temporary experience
It's about surprising consumers with temporary 'performances', guaranteeing exclusivity because of the limited timespan
From individual designers teaming up, to real estate agents making better use of vacant properties, to big brands looking to add a bit of 'cool' and agility to their otherwise fixed locations and massive flagship stores
The whole concept gives consumers something that can be perceived as exclusive, discovery-driven and ‘get it while it lasts‘!
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A pop-up store opens up at an empty retail location for a few days in a major city, or a mall, with great fanfare. And then, poof! It's gone.
In 2007 Nike opened a pop-up store in Soho for just four days for the sole purpose of selling 250 pairs of the Zoom LeBron IV NYC basketball shoes, named after the popular 22-year-old NBA All-Star LeBron
James. The special edition shoes were priced at $250 each.
Pop up store: a temporary experience
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Ralph lauren: window shopping interactive experiencePolo Ralph Lauren has redefined window shopping by launching an unparalleled window shopping experience at their Michigan Avenue Flagship store, allowing customers to shop from outside of the store with the touch of their hand - 24 hours a day.
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Shopping in Second life (The Big Fail)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cvmTdoru1I
http://www.youtube.com/user/Secondlife#p/a/2A050B7242D8864E/0/z3gHCupXSMs
WHAT IS SECOND LIFE?
SHOPPING IN SECOND LIFE
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the increasing importance of FOOD and ENTERTAINMENT in FASHION
Eatertainment= Catering + Entertainment
Retailtainment= Retail+ Entertainment
Ex. Starbucks with the “coffee shop library” where you can both nourish yourself and your Soul
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Unique retail experience is an effective and powerful leverage as long as 2 key principles
are respected: consistency in delivering customer service above expectations and a
very good integration between on-line and off-line channels.
Key factor for new retail experience (NEW)
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- Alignment of the brand content and consumer experience- Synergy across different marketing channels (from searching information on-line to browsing and purchasing in a physical store)*- Ability of brands to customize the interaction with consumers depending on their status (new comers, loyal consumers, info seekers…).
Key factors for new retail experience (NEW)
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*ROPO Research Online Purchase Offline TOPO Test/Try Offline Purchase Online
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EXERCISES
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Retail
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Group 10 Peter Marino
Group 9 Rem Koolhaas
Group 3 Claudio Silvestrin
Group 4 Jean Nouvel
Group 1 Paolo Giachi
Deepening Retail Lectures and introducing Communication LecturesDeepen at home and make your own group presentation on
© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
InstructionsEach Group on Friday Nov 8th will be asked to give their presentation. Few slides (prepare a key to upload on the class PC) on main topics: who theyare, their Biography, Brands theycollaborated with, most important storesthey designed.Consider 5 (max.) minutes for eachpresentation.
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Group 5 Mario Testino
Group 6 Bruce Weber
Group 7 Peter Lindbergh
Group 8 Annie Leibovitz
Group 2 David LaChapelle© Copyright 2008-2019 Carlo Fei for LUISS
Introducing Fashion Communication Lectures Deepen at home and make your own presentation on
InstructionsEach Group on Thursday October 18th
will be asked to give their presentation. Few slides (prepare a key to upload on the class PC) on main topics: who theyare, their Biography, Brands theycollaborated with and their mostimportant adv campaign and famouspictures.Consider 5 (max.) minutes for eachpresentation.
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Neiman MarcusSelfridgesLe Bon MarchéBarneysCOINLa Rinascente
Deepening Retail LecturesTake 5 minutes and make your own presentation on
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