Letʼs Learn To Knit Socks! - WordPress.com · center of heel. Resume knitting in stst over all...

Letʼs Learn To Knit Socks!

A special feature of knitting socks, is the small amount of yarn required, so you get to splurge on the best quality yarn. I find hand knit socks analogous to purchasing high quality bed sheets. Once you’ve had the best, you’ll never go back to mediocre.

Socks are traditionally knit using 4 or 5 double pointed needles. Recent advances in materials have developed other techniques to knit socks. These include using one or two circular needles, or one long circular needle and the magic loop. Socks are knit from the top (cuff/leg) down to the toe, or in reverse (toe up). Yarn is typically chosen for durability, warmth, absorbency, elasticity, and of course the beauty of color and tactile qualities. My favorite fiber is wool spun into a multi-colored yarn. The most frequently used yarn weight is “sock” or “fingering”, creating lightweight, dependable socks that fit in your shoes.

This e-book provides instructions and visuals to learn the steps in knitting a classic top down sock on double pointed needles. So pick up your needles and yarn, get comfortable and let’s knit your first pair of socks!


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SOCK ANATOMYFOOT AND CALF CIRCUMFERENCE

Foot circumference is measured around the widest part, near the ball of the foot. This measurement is the one most often used to size standard length socks.

The calf circumference is the measurement around the largest part of the calf. This measurement is important for knee socks or taller socks.

Pattern instructions include these measurements in the finished sock sizes.

CUFF

The cuff is an optional feature depending on the sock style. It is often knitted in an elastic stitch, such as rib. It’s important to cast on loosely, so the sock can stretch over the foot. I like to use a slightly larger (1/2 to 1mm) straight needle than the needles used to knit the socks, so the foundation row is not tight.

LEG LENGTH

Work the leg until it measures the desired length.

HEEL FLAP

This is the section of the sock that lies down the back of the heel. The heel is an area of the sock where abrasion occurs in footwear, so it’s best to use the Heel Stitch or another textured pattern to make the flap durable. Some yarn manufacturers include a small ball of fine weight, durable yarn with their sock yarn, to be knitted together for stability in the heel and toe.

Typically, 1/2 the total number of stitches are used to knit the heel flap.

TURN HEEL

“Turning the heel” of the sock is short row shaping, forming the “cup” of the heel, and “turns” the heel to create the beginning of the foot. “Turn” in this case means the same as when you finish a regular row of knitting, turning your work to begin a new row, but when short row shaping you are turning before completing a row, leaving unworked stitches behind.

GUSSET

The gusset connects the stitches from the leg to the heel, forming the sides of the foot. It is created by picking up stitches along the sides of the heel flap, and



reconnects with the instep stitches or top of foot. A series of decreases is knitted, resulting in a visible diagonal on the sock, a common feature of purchased socks.

FOOT

The foot is knitted 1 1/2 to 2 inches less than the desired foot length to accommodate the toe. A guideline for determining foot length is your shoe size. When measuring the sock foot length while knitting, measure from the back of the heel, or your sock will be too long. Remember that knitted fabric stretches, so a sock of any size will fit a range of feet, within reason. I can wear a sock ranging from an 8 inch to 9 1/2 inch foot length, even though my shoe size is 9 1/2. Any shorter than 8 inches, my sock feels short.

Often the bottom of the foot is in stockinette stitch, and the instep or top of foot maintains the leg stitch pattern.

TOE

This is the 1 1/2 to 2 inch section making up the last part of the foot, the toe. The toe is shaped with a series of decreases worked every other row on all needles.



SOCK INSTRUCTIONSStandard length sock with rib leg and instep.

SIZEWomen’s medium

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS8in/20cm foot circumference6in/15cm leg or desired length9 1/2in/23.75cm or desired foot length

MATERIALS350m/385yds fingering or sock weight yarn2.5mm 6in/15cm double pointed needles (dpns)one straight needle (3mm or slightly larger)markersNote: If you want a longer leg and/or foot, extra yarn is required.

GAUGE32 sts and 42 rows = 4in/10cm over stst and 2.5mm needles

LEGCast on 64 sts loosely, using the long tail method. (I recommend a larger straight needle. It is important to cast on loosely, or it will be difficult to pull on the sock). Divide the sts as follows: 21 sts on N1, 22 sts on N2, and 21 sts on N3. Join and mark this point as beginning of round. I use a safety pin, pinned onto the knitting. Work in rounds as follows: *(k2, p2), rep from * around. Work in rib pat for 6in or desired length. Stop 1 st before end of last round. This stitch is first stitch of the heel flap.



HEEL FLAPDivide for heel: Move the last stitch (unworked) from last rib round to N1. Transfer stitches around so that 32 sts are on N1, by moving 10 sts from N2. 22 sts are already on N1. Divide the remaining stitches on the other 2 needles, to work later for the instep. Work back and forth across N1 for heel flap as follows (Heel Stitch): Row 1(RS): wyib *(sl1 pwise, k1); rpt from * across. Row 2: wyif sl 1 pwise, p across. Repeat last 2 rows for a total of 32 rows. Work Row 1 once more.

TURN HEEL (Short row shaping)With WS facing (still working on 2 needles): Row 1(WS): p18, p2tog, p1, turn. Row 2: sl 1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn. Row 3: sl 1, p to 1 st before the last turn (you’ll see a gap where the last turn was), p2tog, p1, turn. Row 4: sl 1, k to last st before last turn (a gap), k2tog, k1, turn. Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches are used up, ending with RS row. 18 sts remain.



GUSSET AND FOOTGussetWith the same needle you finished with on last rnd, pick up and knit 16 sts along the side of the heel flap (this is N1). With a new dpn (N2), work across the 32 sts in rib pat as follows: k3 (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, k3. With a new dpn (N3), pick up and knit 16 sts along the other side of heel; continue to knit 9 sts off N1 (center of heel). Mark this point as beginning of rnd. You should have 25 sts on N1 and N3, and 32 sts on N2.

Note on picking up stitches: I describe picking up stitches as “knitting on”, because you are actually knitting the new stitches. The side edges of the heel flap are slip stitches, so it is easy to pick up stitches neatly. Insert needle into space before last slip stitch - one stitch in from edge. Wrap the yarn knitwise around needle, and draw the yarn through as if to knit. Continue to pick up the required number of stitches along the edges.

Begin decreasing for gusset as follows: Rnd 1: k across N1 and N3. Rib across N2. Rnd 2: N1 - k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N2 - rib across (no decreasing). N3 - k1, ssk, k to end. Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until there are 16 sts on N1 and N3. You now have the same number of stitches as you started with, 64 sts.



FootWork even in rnds, maintaining N2 in rib pat until length of sock from back of heel is 2in(5cm) less than desired length of sock.

TOE SHAPINGThere still should be 16 sts on N1 and N3, and 32 sts on N2. The rnd still begins at center of heel. Resume knitting in stst over all needles as follows: Rnd 1: N1 - k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N2 - k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. N3 - k1, ssk, k to end. Rnd 2: Knit across on all needles. Repeat these 2 rnds until 24 sts are left, 6 sts on N1 and N3, 12 sts on N2. Finish by knitting 6 sts off N1 to N3. You now have 2 needles, each with 12 sts.



FINISHINGGraft toe stitches or use my favorite, the “Bind Off Seam” described on the next page. Weave in yarn ends. Block by washing socks and lay flat to dry.

ABBREVIATIONScm centimeterdpn(s) double pointed needle(s)k knitk2tog knit 2 stitches togetherm metermm millimeterN needlep purlp2tog purl 2 stitches togetherpwise purlwisernd roundrpt repeatRS right sidesl slip (slip all stitches in this pattern as if to purl)ssk slip, slip, knit - Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time to right needle. Insert tip of left needle into fronts of these stitches from left to right. Knit them together. One stitch decreased, and it slants to the left.st(s) stitch(es)stst stockinette stitchwyib with yarn in backwyif with yarn in frontWS wrong sideyd(s) yard(s)

© Urban Knitters 2015



HATE THE KITCHENER STITCH - HEREʼS AN ALTERNATIVE

The kitchener stitch is a grafting technique used mainly for sock toes, where a seam is undesirable. If not executed properly it looks uneven. I have found a bind-off seam that is an even finish. It is worked on live stitches as for the kitchener stitch, and works well where you want to join two ends with no seam, like the toes of socks.

Bind-off Seam:

1. For the toes of socks transfer the last stitches that are divided on two needles to two safety pins or small holders. Since the seam is worked from the wrong side, carefully turn the socks inside out without dropping any stitches.

2. Transfer the stitches from the safety pins to two double pointed needles (dpn[s]), preferably smaller than what you used to knit the sock. Line up the live stitches as you would for the kitchener stitch.

3. Insert a third dpn knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle, then purlwise into the first stitch on the back needle, and slip both stitches off to the third dpn. Continue in this fashion until all the stitches are on the third dpn.

4. Turn the work. Slip the first two stitches purlwise. *Pull the first stitch over the second, just as you would in a normal bind off. Slip the next stitch purlwise. Repeat from the * until all the stitches have been bound off. Fasten off the last stitch. Weave in ends and admire the professional finish.





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Letʼs Learn To Knit Socks! - WordPress.com · center of heel. Resume knitting in stst over all...

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