LNE & Spa - June 2014

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals June 2014 $7.50

Reduces fi ne lines and wrinkles

Brightens skin and lightens

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Clarifi es and evens complexion

Prevents infl ammation to

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* as evaluated by the reduction in UV induced ROS in human ex vivo skin after 3 hour application

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Reduces fi ne lines and wrinkles

Brightens skin and lightens

dark spots

Clarifi es and evens complexion

Prevents infl ammation to

visibly calm skin

Boldijarre Koronczay, PresidentÉminence Organic Skin Care

“As a skin care ingredient maintaining the potency of Vitamin C is a challenge.

We have formulated an exclusive blend of stabilized Vitamin C

ingredients that do not degrade or lose their antioxidant benefits once exposed to oxygen, providing the most powerful anti-aging results.”

* as evaluated by the reduction in UV induced ROS in human ex vivo skin after 3 hour application

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic®

skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PROVIDER OF PREMIUM SKIN CARE

Antioxidant Super Food for the Skin

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card

organic & wellnessLycopene 97Detoxifying Treatments with Juice Enhancements 100Mind, Body and Scent 103Integrating Energy

Healing Into Your Spa 106Organic & Wellness News 110

Page 4 • LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • June 2014

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

imageColor Blocking and

Reverse Half Moon 111Greenhouse Glamour 114Beauty for the Ages 118

Guide Your Clients to a Natural Looking Tan 121Image News 124

Greenhouse Glamour keeping a fresh face page 114

Covercourtesy of PUPA

extrasFrom the Editor 6Spa of the Month: Cal-a-Vie Health Spa in Vista, CA 10Recap: The International

Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 22

Photo Feature: Are YourClients Beach Ready? 50

Calendar of Events 126Advertisers’ Index 130

ready for summer guideGet Your Clients Beach Ready 70The Booming Business

of Fighting Cellulite 74Setting the Record

Straight About Sunscreen 79Sun-Kissed Faces 81

business5 Tips to Develop an Effective Spa Menu 83Raising the Standard 85Compensation and Profits 88Slim and Smart 92Biz News 95

spaLips: Hydrate and Protect 46Finding the Stretch in Your

Massage Treatment 56Summer Fruits 60The Cherished Coconut 64Spa News 67

skinBack Facials 26 Poking Holes in Anti-Aging 30Ladies Who Lunch...With a Side of Spa! 36Lifestyle Choices That Affect Skin Health 40Skin News 43

Ready for Summer Guide

page 69

The Cherished Coconut page 64

CONTENTSJUNE 2014 VOLUME 29 NUMBER 6

Mind, Body and Scent

page 103

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“We are continuously working to develop more products to cater to the

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from the EDITORThe summer solstice occurs on the 21st of June, marking the start of the season. The first summer edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa for 2014 provides all the information you need to make your hot weather treat-ments sizzle!

This month, we present the first section of our new special guide series. The Ready for Summer Guide on page 69 is a 14-page editorial feature packed with the latest information on key topics in summer spa services and retail. Articles include “Get Your Clients Beach Ready,” “The Booming Business of Fighting Cellulite: Top Treatments to Tone and Tighten,” “Setting the Record Straight About Sunscreen” and “Sun-Kissed Faces.” Next month, do not miss our Lash Out Guide!

Other summer topics covered in this issue include capital-izing on your clients’ tanning envy with help from “Guide Your Clients to a Natural Looking Tan” on page 121. Learn great melt-free makeup techniques in “Greenhouse Glamour” on page 114. Create sweet, refreshing services to attract new guests into your spa during the slow summer months with ideas from “Summer Fruits” on page 60.

Also, make sure you have the latest summer products in your spa to prepare your clients for the scorching days ahead with our photo feature, “Are Your Clients Beach Ready?” on page 50.

Other cutting-edge features beyond the summer theme include “Poking Holes in Anti-Aging” on page 30, which delves into the cutting-edge phenomenon of micro-needling. “Integrating Energy Healing Into Your Spa” on page 106 un-covers alternative treatments to provide your clients with the inner peace and overall wellness that so many of them are seeking. “Ladies Who Lunch…With a Side of Spa!” on page 36 gives you ideas on how to cater to time-pressed working women with mini spa treatments on their lunch hour.

These articles are just a few examples of the many trend-ing subjects addressed in this edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Enjoy, and remember I am always inter-ested in your feedback!

Wishing you a happy start to your summer! n

—Amanda Clinton Winter, [email protected] you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134

800.471.0229 (USA)

305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 lneonline.com

e-mail: [email protected] [email protected]

Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand

Chief exeCutive OffiCer Rodolphe Legrand [email protected]

Managing editOr Amanda Clinton Winter [email protected]

art direCtOr Sacha Smith [email protected]

assOCiate editOr Nathalie Gouillou [email protected]

direCtOr Of sales Aché Fougere [email protected]

Marketing direCtOr Christèle de La Haye [email protected]

COnferenCe COOrdinatOr Laura G. Bazo [email protected]

exhibitOr OPeratiOns Manager Mayli Tenorio [email protected]

internatiOnal editOr Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017

Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis

Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Contributors

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilities exist.

Linda BertautDiane BuccolaCarrie-Ann BuckinghamKat BurkiCaroline CanettiMelanie EdwardsErin FerrillEmily A. Francis

Gary Goldfaden, M.D.Nathalie GouillouKristin Groop Jimm HarrisonSzilvia HickmanLouisa R. HorvathJennifer Linder, M.D.Julie Nostrand

Alice PicheryTim RichardsonJeri Ross, M.P.H.Dori SoukupDavid SuzukiBranka TomicShawn TowneMary VanAmanda Clinton Winter


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SPA OF THE MONTH

by Amanda Clinton Winter

REJUVENATING PROVENÇAL CHARM CAL-A-VIE HEALTH SPA VISTA, CA

OVERLOOKING A LAVENDER COVERED hillside and vineyards, Cal-a-Vie Health Spa in Vista, CA seems to have been plucked from a French countryside and dropped in a se-cluded valley just 40 miles north of San Diego, where the scenery and perfect weather have a Mediterranean ambience.

The Provençal style health resort is a labor of love for owners John and Terri Havens. John, the president of Seismic Exchange, a company

continues

that markets geological data for the oil and gas industries, purchased the spa after a visit in the late 1990s. The Havens’ vision for a luxury destination spa offering a comprehensive plan that integrates health, nutrition, fitness and spa treatments brought about what is today’s Cal-a-Vie Health Spa.

With its authentic 400-year-old stone cha-pel from Dijon, France set on a hillside, Cal-a-Vie is decorated with antiques that Terri, a self proclaimed Francophile with an eye for the unique, collected in Provence. The spa has the feel, leisure and tranquility of a Southern French village. It even has its own boulangerie (bakery).

This exclusive weight loss spa focuses on the physical, mental and psychological well-ness of its guests. With an unprecedented staff to guest ratio of five to one, Cal-a-Vie offers a unique and custom designed program with packages of three, four or seven nights that include gourmet cuisine, fitness classes, beauty and spa treatments, mind and body awareness programs as well as health and nutri-tion lectures (the three night package starts at $3,995). Most guests arrive with several goals in mind—the top two being weight loss and stress reduction. Others are either regular spa-goers or simply want a getaway.

This exclusive weight loss spa focuses on the

physical, mental and psychological

wellness of its guests.

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spa of the month|cal-a-vie health spa

Upon arrival, guests are led to their private Mediterranean-style stucco villa (there is a to-tal of 32 villas available), which is rustic chic, sparkling clean and television free. A concierge interviews them to create a customized meal, fitness and spa plan tailored to their specific health and wellness goals. No matter which Cal-a-Vie package guests choose, they experience a good balance of strenuous activity, luxurious spa treatments and delicious cuisine.

A typical day at Cal-a-Vie begins at 6 a.m. with a challenging yet eye pleasing one-hour guided hike among the lavenders and vineyards, followed by a healthy breakfast. By 9 a.m., guests begin a succession of four 50-minute classes that alternate between high-intensity cardio (cardio kickboxing or spin classes held either on land or in water, utilizing the spa’s underwater bicycles), strength training (circuit or barre classes), yoga and stretch classes.

At some point in this marathon of activity, there is a 10-minute “revitalizer” break, during which

guests are served a small cup of vegetable broth and steamed vegetables. This is intended to hold the guest’s appetite until lunchtime. The menu for the midday meal consists of low-fat, low-sodium cuisine prepared with organic and regional pro-duce. The fare is high in natural complex carbohy-drates (grains, veggies and fruits) and lean animal proteins (egg whites, poultry and fish).

At 2 p.m., a series of European-style spa treatments is scheduled in the French inspired bathhouse. Treatments are highlighted by natu-ral plants, sea extracts and aromatic restorative oils. Services include an extensive selection of facials, hand and foot treatments, body wraps and scrubs, waxing, hair and nail care, men’s spe-cials and an array of beauty extras such as teeth whitening—not all of which are included in pack-ages. First time spa guests have to fill out a skin care assessment. Based on that information and a skin analysis, skin care therapists put together

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continues

a take home skin care program—the bathhouse retail area, which exclusively focuses on skin care, is conveniently located at the reception.

The bathhouse offers separate men’s and women’s aromatherapy steam rooms, saunas and Jacuzzis as well as meditation rooms. In the steam rooms, lavender, rosemary and eucalyptus essential oils diffuse a cloud of delightful and beneficial vapor for ultimate relaxation. One of the bathhouse specialties is the Customized Hydrotherapy, where guests slip into a sooth-ing, therapeutic bath designed to reduce water retention to improve the firmness and texture of the skin (50 minutes, $95).

In order to help their guests achieve their fit-ness goals, Cal-a-Vie offers a wide range of weight loss driven treatments. The Vichy Salt Scrub with BodyCoffee Polish is an exfoliating spa ritual ideal for cellulite. The treatment includes a BodyCoffee Polish, used with salts from the Dead Sea, ener-gizing essential oils and ground coffee; a Body

Wash, where a blend of antioxidant coffee extract, aloe vera and olive oil gently rinses away tension; and a soothing application of BodyCoffee Body Lotion (45 minutes, $185). The BodyCoffee Anti-Cellulite Massage, which soothes sore muscles, improves micro-circulation and helps reduce the appearance of cellulite, uses essential oils of mint, rosemary, citrus and coffee extract (50 minutes, $185; 90 minutes, $290). Guests can also select a Cellulite Targeted Massage, where the tech-nique performed in Europe in lieu of liposuction works by loosening and softening the fascia and fat tissue. This therapeutic work promotes inch loss, smoothes the appearance of dimpled skin and flushes away toxins stored in fat cells (50 minutes, $205). The BodyCoffee Contouring and Cellulite Wrap can also help to reduce the appearance of cellulite and wrinkles, improve micro-circulation and break up fatty deposits that can cause cellulite. The treatment starts with an


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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESSOF ESTHETICS AND SPA

LONG BEACH, CALong Beach Convention Center

SEPTEMBER 7 & 8, 2014

THE TRENDSETTER OF WELLNESS & SPA

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Contact us today for your free show program: 1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 • USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

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exfoliation using a combination of coffee, Dead Sea salt and essential oils to smooth and stimulate the skin. Then a relaxing, warm and detoxifying body wrap is applied before guests enjoy a hot shower with BodyCoffee Blossom Body Wash and the hydrating BodyCoffee Body Lotion (90 minutes, $260).

For guests looking for more spiritually inspired services, Cal-a-Vie also offers energy and oriental treatments that include ancient Asian techniques such as the Vibrational Tune-up Treatment—where tuning forks are cali-brated to balance frequencies that encourage a return to vitality—or the Chakra Balancing Acupuncture. During the Vibrational Tune-up, the heal-ing sounds of the tuning forks are applied to the muscles, skin, joints and bones, depending on the area of concern. The result is a deep sense of relaxation, and often a diminished sensation of pain (50 minutes, $185). The Chakra Balancing Acupuncture unites two energy systems, the Indian chakras and Traditional Chinese Medicine’s acupuncture, to provide harmony and revitalization to the body, mind and spirit, as any blockage or disruption in the flow of energy leads to imbalance and symptoms. The Chakra flow of energy is tested before and after the treatment to demonstrate positive changes and shifts. Aromatherapy is also used as part of the treatment to renew and restore equilibrium and balance to the chakras (50 minutes, $190). More than 20 other mind-body-spirit classes designed to restore internal balance can be selected, for which guests can quiet their minds in the labyrinth and/or experience deep meditation in the 400-year-old chapel.

The afternoon concludes with a lecture and sometimes a cooking class before dinner; then guests get to rest and look forward to yet another activity-packed day.

To help women look younger with today’s most effective skin rejuve-nation techniques, the spa has partnered with Gwendolyn Henao, M.D. to offer injectables to their guests twice a week, on Tuesdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Thursdays from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

continues


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With a yearly occupancy of 85 percent and a guest return rate of 57 percent, mar-keting and special offerings might seem unnecessary. But Jacqueline Matzat, mar-keting director at Cal-a-Vie, keeps things interesting with theme weeks such as Women’s Only Week and Mom and Teen Week. Cal-a-Vie also hosts guest present-ers and instructors like Louis Van Amstel of Dancing With the Stars—to teach the lat-est dance moves—or Christopher Hobbs, an herbalist and botanist with more than 30 years of experience in integrative health, for lectures on herbal medicine.

“We anticipate and meet any wish or need the guest may have,” says Matzat, who stresses that education for the staff (and customer satisfaction) is key—ev-ery department has a guest satisfaction survey goal of 93 percent. “Our staff is trained and updated continuously, some-times in house, sometimes by product line trainers,” Matzat says.

At Cal-a-Vie, guests only have to in-dulge in some well deserved and thor-ough pampering. n

photos courtesy of Cal-a-Vie Health Spa

Amanda Clinton Winter is the manag-ing editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, MA, and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at [email protected].


CAL-A-VIE29402 Spa Havens WayVista, CA 92084 Cal-a-vie.com 866.772.4283

CAL-A-VIE FACTSOpened: 1986Owners: John and Terri Havens

FACILITY: • 32 private villas• Five facial rooms,10

massage rooms, one Thai room, one wrap room, one Vichy room and one hydrotherapy room

• 14 beauty therapists• 22 massage therapists • One independent

acupuncturist who comes in as needed

PRODUCT LINES USED AND RETAILED: Phytomer, Yonka, Olavie, BodyCoffee, Bella Lucce, June Jacobs, Cal-a-Vie Vinothérapie, Transderma, G.M. Collin, Coola, NuFace, Clarisonic, Essence of Vali

*The spa menu changes seasonally.



Nina Curtis, congress host

INNER AND OUTER BEAUTY

HUNDREDS OF ARMS FLAILED in the air to the tune of Pharrell Williams’ hit “Happy,” and as the song faded, hands came into the praying position. Soon the music was replaced by the beat-ing of a drum, which rhythm participants followed to inhale and exhale. “Was that hard?” Asked Naam Yoga therapist EuGene Gant, whose energy dur-ing his short demonstration of Shakti Naam Yoga was as infectious as Williams’ single. The crowd

cheered in response. “What I practice are three very simple things,” added Gant. “One I breathe, two I sweat, three I laugh.” And so it is that The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa held in Miami Beach, FL on April 6 and 7 kicked off—and kept up—with good vibes, joy and power.

“PCA Skin was honored to exhibit at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami this year. The Miami Beach confer-

BY NATHALIE GOUILLOU

The event featured its first ever Spa Director Symposium, a private by invitation only lounge,

where heads of salons and spas could not only get treatments courtesy of ilike, PCA, Silhouet-Tone and

Bare Escentuals, but attend intimate roundtable conversations for a chance to network, learn and share.

AT THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS & SPA, MIAMI BEACH, FL

June 2014 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa LNEONLINE.com • Page 23

Sothys booth, a show sponsor

Nina Curtis, congress host

show floor

Michael Q. Pugliese

Clarisonic booth

PCA booth

Exel booth

Melissa Black

show floor

Kollagen booth

Rejuva booth

continues

ence exceeded all of our expectations, espe-cially the quality of attendees,” said PCA SKIN® Trade Show and Event Manager Stephanie Nervegna. “We couldn’t have asked for a bet-ter experience.”

Nearly 300 exhibitors offered the most cut-ting-edge technologies, equipment and treat-ments, along with the best in skin care, esthetics and cosmetology. Every area of health, beauty and well-being was covered for the close to 10,000 attendees. In the world of esthetics and spa, the Miami Beach congress, brought togeth-er with the generous support of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope Magazines, was the place to be.

“This was a good show for us, both in terms of sales and leads,” said François Requier, gen-eral manager of Silhouet-Tone, a leading com-pany of innovations in skin rejuvenation tech-nology. Wilma Schumann Operations and Export Manager Melba Cardet-Llanes said that the com-pany’s new branding and product line enhance-ments were extremely well received. “We were very pleasantly surprised by the quantity and quality of the attendees,” Cardet-Llanes said. “We’re happy to report that we broke the sales record for this show.”

The event featured its first ever Spa Director Symposium, a private by invitation only lounge,

The General Session featured Michael Pugliese of Circadia, who enlightened listeners

with a lecture on glycation, how this phenomenon affects the body and how to prevent it.


captivated attendees Pamela Taylor’s demo Spa Director Symposium lounge

Caviar of Switzerland booth

EuGene Gant invigorates the crowd entrance to the General Session

Éminence booth

Lira booth

AW Skin Care training demo

where the heads of salons and spas could not only receive treatments courtesy of ilike, PCA, Silhouet-Tone and Bare Escentuals, but also attend intimate roundtable conversations to network, learn and share.

“This was extremely valuable,” said spa owner-to-be Natalia Gafanovich of Miami, FL. “It was very detailed, very personable. I like this roundtable, it focuses you on business.” Spa owner Sharmine Nottingham from Trinidad com-mented on the excellent service in the lounge, adding that she enjoyed her private sessions thoroughly. The Spa Director Symposium was a win-win for attendees and sponsors alike. Ilike representatives said they enjoyed their one on one time with clients, and the opportunity to make real connections while offering mini-facials.

The conference brought together many notable names in the industry for lectures, demonstrations, workshops and seminars. Attendees were greeted at the General Session

with goodies from sponsors Circadia by Dr. Pugliese and Sothys.

Nile Institute’s Nina Curtis—a leader in the development of training programs for salons and spas nationwide—opened the General Session on both days, readying guests for “inspiration” before opening the floor to Gant’s lively presentation. The General Session featured Michael Pugliese of Circadia, who enlightened listeners with a lec-ture on glycation, how this phenomenon affects the body and how to prevent it. Melissa Black of Bombshell® Salons & Candy Coat Beauty™ briefed attendees on the secrets of body wax-ing, while Dori Soukup of InSPAration shared the keys to building long lasting relationships with clients. Pamela Taylor, a recognized authority in fashion makeup, motivated artists with a dem-onstration of her renowned techniques. GlyMed Plus owner and CEO Christine Heathman edu-cated listeners on the miracle of Protease as an anti-aging and acne solution. Anabel de la Vega,

The conference brought together

many notable names in the

industry for lectures, demonstrations, workshops and

seminars. Attendees were greeted at the

general sessions with goodies from sponsors Circadia

by Dr. Pugliese and Sothys.


South Seas Skin Care boothChristine Heathman

TiZO by Fallene booth Spa Director Symposium

red carpet

Casmara booth

Anabel de la VegaSkin Fitness booth

Candy Coat Beauty booth Successful Spa Entrepreneurs panel Balanced Guru booth

Spa Director Symposium lounge

Caviar of Switzerland booth

entrance to the General Session

a respected licensed specialist and instructor, shared the techniques of the ancient art of fire cupping, while director of Eau Spa Catherine Warren explained how to boost retail revenues. Finally, successful spa owners Joseph Mandato of La Bella Spa, Nancy Reagan of Bella Reina Spa and Nadine Toriello of All About Your Day Spa shared their individual paths to success.The many workshops and seminars allowed partici-pants to focus on their areas of interest and learn from the very best in their fields.

“I was very impressed with the whole ex-perience,” said laser specialist and esthetician Suzanne Godbout of South Carolina, who attend-ed workshops and purchased many products for her practice. “I plan to come back every year.”

You have heard it from some of the best in the industry, exhibitors and attendees alike—The International Congress, Miami Beach is a must! See you next year on March 1 and 2, 2015! n

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines cosponsor four International Congress of Esthetics and Spa educational conferences/trade shows annually. Upcoming dates: Long Beach, CA, September 7-8; Philadelphia, PA, October 19-20. Dates for 2015 conferences: Miami Beach, FL, March 1-2; Arlington, TX, April 26-27; Long Beach, CA, September 20-21; Philadelphia, PA, October 25-26.

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Email her at [email protected].

TM

FOLLOW THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA ON:

the international congress of esthetics and spa

“I was very impressed with the whole experience,” said laser specialist and esthetician Suzanne Godbout of South Carolina, who attended workshops and purchased many products for her practice.


feeling fresh and relaxed with a healthy, glowing back.

The back facial follows the same steps as a traditional European facial:

Cleanse: Remove the impurities at the surface of the skin. A battery-oper-ated cleansing brush and foaming gel cleanser can be used, particularly for oily and congested skin types.

Exfoliate: Remove dead cells, increase microcirculation and improve skin texture.

Deep cleanse: Using a deep-pore cleanser to liquefy sebum and unclog the pores, it is recommended to do the cleansing-exfoliation-deep pore cleans-

A BACK FACIAL IS A SPA TREAT-ment particularly suited to the return of summer, the season for bathing suits and backless dresses. The fact that we can-not see our own backs does not mean we should neglect to give this part of the body the attention it needs. In fact, the back should be treated with special care because it is such a hard to reach area.

A back facial is not to be confused with a regular body treatment. It address-es specific concerns according to skin type. It is intended to clarify and soften the skin, helping to improve its appear-ance and texture. It will leave your client

ing steps under steam—you can always recommend that the client use the steam room facility if you have one available.

Extractions: Following the steps above will make it easier for you to perform the extractions. Extractions are a necessary step in a back facial treatment, since it is an area that clients cannot reach themselves.

Treatment serum/ampoule: This intensive infusion of active ingredients should be targeted according to the cus-tomer’s concern: the formula can be hy-drating, soothing or purifying. It can even be anti-aging or brightening.

by Alice Pichery

skin back facials

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Relaxation: The back is an area where the body holds a lot of tension. It is always valuable to include a neck-shoulder-back massage in your back facial.

Treatment mask: This would also be customized according to the client’s con-cern. Typically, a clay-based mask would be used for oily/acne prone skin, and a gel or cream-based mask to deeply hydrate dry/mature/sun exposed skin.

Apply a protection cream tailored to the client’s skin type at the end of the treatment to restore hydration. Apply a sunscreen if necessary. This is a great opportunity to present the brand new retail sun products you just received!

The benefits of a back facial vary based on the client’s skin type.

An oily skin/acne back facial will clear up clogged pores, with extra attention on extractions. It helps refine the skin tex-ture, and makes it smoother and clearer.

Other skin types that can benefit from a back facial are mature, sun-dam-aged and hyperpigmented skin types. Using glycolic peels, microdermabra-sion and vitamin C will help even out skin tone. Since the skin on the back is a lot thicker than the skin on the face, more people will be able to receive this add-on for the back—whereas the face might be too sensitive. So just as with a regular facial, it is a great way to upgrade a ba-sic treatment.

Dry skin will love a back facial! While it can be easy for your clients to keep a clean back with the assistance of back scrubbing shower tools, moisturizing the back and treating dry skin on oneself is much more challenging to do.

Offering a back facial is a great way to increase client loyalty. A regular cli-ent who comes in for their routine acne facial will be delighted to discover the

benefits of receiving a full back facial as well. Use this opportunity to get your client interested in an overall wellness and beauty regime involving new ser-vices, body treatments, massage and self-tanning. n

Alice Pichery has served as a national trainer for Sothys since 2012. She previous-ly worked as a training assistant for L’Occitane en Provence in Paris, as well as a spa therapist for various spas in France and Australia. As a national trainer for Sothys, Pichery pro-motes Sothys products and treatments through education, product knowledge, hands-on techniques and retail sales.

skin

BACK FACIAL TREATMENTSIN SPAS

LAUREN’S FACE THE DAY CORAL GABLES, FLPurifying Back Treatment (75 MINUTES, $95)This deep-cleansing treatment for that hard to reach skin on the back includes a skin softening steam, exfoliation and extrac-tions (if needed). This is followed by the application of an ultra-nourishing mask. This treatment is a great way to tame dry, irri-tated and blemish prone areas.

L’INSTITUT SOTHYSNEW YORK, NY Aromatic Back Facial (60 MINUTES, $125)This refreshing treatment deep-cleanses and detoxifies skin to produce clear, healthy skin on the back. The service is de-signed to make the skin look radiant and luminous with an extra-smooth texture. The com-bination of all active ingredients works to minimize pores and clear imperfections.

KAREN ALLEN SALON & SPA RIVERSIDE, CA AND TEMECULA, CABack Facial (60 MINUTES, $65)This service addresses your cli-ents’ skin concerns for this often neglected part of the body. The treatment includes customized product formulas, exfoliation, massage techniques and ritu-als to restore the skin’s balance.

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Typically, a clay-based mask would be used for oily/acne prone skin, and a gel or cream-based

mask to deeply hydrate dry/mature/sun exposed skin.



POKING HOLES IN ANTI-AGINGTHE MAGIC OF MICRONEEDLING

BY

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CELEBRITIES ARE ALWAYS ON THE CUT-ting-edge of beauty trends. With a quick view-ing of your favorite reality shows or a flip through the weekly tabloids, you can see that many stars are partaking in one of the latest anti-aging treatments—microneedling.

Microneedling goes by several names: colla-gen induction therapy, skin needling and micro-rolling. Regardless of the name used, micronee-dling is a skin treatment that uses tiny needles to pierce the skin and provide powerful benefits.

The microneedling process is carried out with a roller made up of many miniature needles. The

needles pierce up to 2 mm of the upper layers of the skin. This process provides a clear topical channel for creams and gels to be effectively ab-sorbed through the top layer of the epidermis.

There are three basic types of microneedling devices: stamps, which allow precise but slow treat-ments, automatic microneedling devices (AMDs) and rollers that allow for more rapid treatments but at one set depth. Although an AMD costs more initially, there are benefits—such as having the ability to quickly vary the depth of penetration, allowing the user to customize the treatment to the client’s skin and needs. It also reduces dispos-

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able costs by using one cartridge per treatment, as changing depths with skin rollers or stamps necessitates using more than one per client.

Unlike microrollers, AMDs can maneuver into smaller areas, such as around the lips, nose and eyes. Treatment times are much faster with the AMD than with a stamp or roller. No matter what microneedling device is selected, the stamp, roller or AMD needle cartridges are each for a single use, as they cannot be sterilized.

Each of these devices create both micro-chan-nels and micro-injuries, with depths ranging from 0.25 mm to 2.5 mm, depending on the device and settings being used. The micro-injuries stimulate the body’s innate wound healing cascade to create new collagen, remodel old collagen and induce regenerative healing. During and after the treat-ment, numerous micro-channels are created by the tiny needles, allowing topicals to easily pen-etrate the epidermis via these channels.

Skin conditions that may be improved by mi-croneedling include acne scars, scars caused by trauma or surgery, stretch marks, fine lines, wrinkles, melasma and overall skin texture and tone. Research is currently being conducted regarding micronee-dling for alopecia to stimulate hair growth. Early reports find this research to be quite promising.

Selecting the correct topicals for each type of treatment is critical to success. Several peer reviewed research articles document the ben-eficial effects of applying the following topicals during microneedling treatment.

VITAMIN C • Reductionoffreeradicals• Formationofcollagen• Strengtheningofcollagen• Reductionincollagenase(s)

that breaks down collagen

NATIVE (HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT) HYALURONIC ACID• Increasesandmaintainstissuehydration• Actsasananti-inflammatorycytokine(sig-

nal molecule) that regulates cell prolifera-tion, migration and differentiation.

• Actsasanantioxidant

COPPER PEPTIDE• Helpsbreakdownabnormallylarge

collagen bundles found in scar tissue• Stimulatesregenerativeskinremodeling• Promotessynthesisofelastinandother

skin components• Regulatestheproliferationandmigration

of several cell types• Exhibitssignificantanti-inflammatoryaction

NIACINIMIDE• Actsasanantioxidant• Canimproveepidermalbarrierfunction• Decreasesskinhyperpigmentation• Reducesfinelinesandwrinkles• Improvesskinelasticity

KOJIC ACID• Reducesmelanincontentinmelanocytes,

thereby brightening skin• Actsasafreeradicalscavenger

Unlike fractional lasers and chemical peels, microneedling uses a mechanical creation of mi-crochannels that avoids the use of heat, thermal energy or chemicals. This significantly reduces post treatment sensitivity and downtime. One important benefit of microneedling over other modalities is that it can be used on clients with darker skin types, with little risk of hyper-pigmentation associated with laser or chemical treatments.

before and after microneedling treatment

NO MATTER WHAT MICRONEEDLING DEVICE IS SELECTED, THE STAMP, ROLLER OR AMD NEEDLE CARTRIDGES ARE EACH FOR A SINGLE USE, AS THEY CANNOT BE STERILIZED.

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It is essential to receive proper training on the physiology of wound healing, topical selection, treatment protocols for different skin conditions and the safe and effective use of the micronee-dling device. Each state has rules regarding who can microneedle and how the treatments are performed. Please check with your board of cosmetology for your state’s regulations.

Once you are properly trained in the theory and clinical aspects of microneedling, it is easy to incorporate the treatments into your business. Microneedling may be used as a stand alone treatment or in combination with other modali-ties, depending on the condition of the skin and the specific issues that need to be addressed.

Some modality combinations include der-maplaning with microneedling, IPL photofacial with microneedling and microneedling with LED therapy. IPL therapy and dermaplaning are treat-ments that need to be performed before mi-croneedling. With LED, microneedling comes first. Microneedling may also be incorporated after a simple cleansing facial, with or without a mild scrub or enzyme. Microneedling should not be performed with moderate or severe active acne, as it can transfer the P. acnes bacteria to other parts of the skin. Chemical peels may be used two to four weeks after a microneedling treatment as an adjunct therapy.

Treatment intervals for skin needling vary ac-cording to the goal of the treatment. Skin nee-dling for anti-aging can be repeated every six to eight weeks, while scar resurfacing should be ad-ministered every four to six weeks, as long as the epidermis is healed. Collagen formation can con-tinue for up to 18 months after one treatment. n

Kristin Groop, The Laser Chick®, is the CEO of Esthetic Advisor Laser Academy® (EALA). Groop is a licensed estheti-cian, esthetic instructor, certified laser techni-cian and instructor. Her EstheCeuticals® line of skin care products was created specifically for microneedling and laser treatments. EALA of-fers advanced laser and microneedling train-ings both live and online. Contact Groop at 480.656.4481 or [email protected].

skin|poking holes in anti-aging

Cosmo MedSpa in Scottsdale, AZ charges $250-$350 per treatment, depending upon the inclusion of add on services such as dermaplaning or IPL. Microneedling services are one hour in length, and also include a spe-cialized serum infusion treatment (spe-cifically developed for microneedling) to reduce redness after the treatment.

Sonoma Medi Spa in Gilbert, AZ offers microneedling services for general skin health, burns, smoker’s lines and post surgery. Services are 50 minutes and cost $250.

Clear Skin Laser in White Bear Lake, MN utilizes microneedling with derma-planing and photofacials. They treat signs of aging and hyperpigmentation on the face, as well as stretch marks on the body. Treatments last one hour and cost $250 for each area treated.

SKIN NEEDLING FOR ANTI-AGING CAN BE REPEATED EVERY SIX TO EIGHT WEEKS, WHILE SCAR RESURFACING SHOULD BE

ADMINISTERED EVERY FOUR TO SIX WEEKS, AS LONG AS THE EPIDERMIS IS HEALED.

at right: treatment of the neck for anti-aging

with an automatic microneedling device

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Ladies who lunch

...with a side of spa!

MANY BUSY PROFESSIONAL WOMEN TODAY ARE looking at menus on their lunch hour—and it has nothing to do with food!

Burning the candle at both ends can wreak havoc on the stress levels and overall health of working women. Fortunately, leading-edge spas and salons understand the time demands that professional women face daily, and have created specific treatments to accommodate them.

These treatments sometimes are given cute names such as Lunch Hour Pick-Me-Ups, Spa Tapas or Spa Sampler Plate. These abbreviated treatments may include nail services, facial services, massage and sometimes even a light lunch.

Roni Parish, solo esthetician and owner of Roni lee’s Skin & Hair Studio in Rocklin, CA is a dual-licensed esthetician and

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BY DIANE BUCCOLA

cosmetologist. She offers a variety of lunchtime services that cost $50-$100. These completely customized services evolved over time to accommodate her corporate clients who desired a quick cleanup. Parish offers a Power Hour, which includes cleansing, exfoliation and an infusion of serums with a skin spatula. The Power Hour is finished with a quick application of mineral makeup. Parish is also a licensed cosmetologist, so she can even restyle her clients’ “after-facial” hair.

Would you like an eye treatment with that bikini wax?It is not just facial services that keep professional women com-ing back to Parish during their lunch hour. Parish is also known for being very creative with her waxing services, such as offer-

ing an eye treatment during a bikini or Brazilian wax appoint-ment. This combo has been affectionately nicknamed De-fur and De-Stress! Parish applies an under-eye serum followed by an eye treatment mask, which remains on the client’s skin throughout the waxing appointment. “These small-size lunch hour treatments have become so popular that I now have most of my work days full between the hours of 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.,” says Parish.

The major benefit for the spa is that potential clients are conveniently located in nearby businesses. And because these are not clinical treatments, the intake process can be a bit quicker, making it easy for clients to fit a lunchtime treat-ment into their schedule. In fact, it is not even necessary for clients to change into a spa robe or wrap in many cases—and that is a major time-saver.

Kaffee Keldie, esthetician and owner of Kaf fee’s Garden Spa in West Palm Beach, FL has had a Bite-Size trio on her menu for several years.

Kaffee’s Garden Spa’s Bite-Size trio includes the Bite Size Massage, a 30-minute massage that concentrates on the back, neck and shoulders; Bite Size Facial Peel, a 30-minute treatment that includes an enzyme peel followed by a soothing, hydrating mask; and Bite-Size Scrub & Rub, a 30-minute exfoliation and massage of the feet and calves while seated in the pedicure chair. Separately, these mini treatments are $45. If purchased in a package of three, the price is $125. Guests are offered a choice of four lunches ($18), which can be served in the pedicure chair or at a special table set up in the spa’s Relaxation Room. If time permits, clients can add on a toe polish change and/or manicure, making the treatment a head-to-toe experience.

“From our standpoint, not only does our Bite-Size menu accommodate busy working women, but it is also a great op-portunity for new clients to visit our facility, interact with staff members, and become familiar with our other services, which they might consider for future visits,” says Keldie.

MarketingMarketing lunchtime services is a breeze. It begins with a simple visit to nearby businesses with a flyer or menu in hand to intro-duce the concept. And from there, word-of-mouth—the least expensive and best form of advertising—takes over. Signage inside the spa and use of social media are two additional ways to attract busy professional women who may not realize that there are services available that can fit into their busy workday.


Adding lunchtime treatments is a great way to attract clients who may not have time on a regu-lar basis for your spa’s lengthier spa treatments. However, these lunchtime clients could very well turn into loyal clients who purchase home care retail products and take advantage of your regular spa menu in the future when time allows. Ultimately, lunchtime treatments provide a potentially lucra-tive opportunity that you do not want to miss! n

Diane Buccola has been a licensed estheti-cian in California since 1998. She is the owner of SpaBizBoard.com, a popular message board and learning tool for the spa business. Buccola is an advisory board mem-ber for Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has authored two books: Estheticians are a Girl’s Best Friend and The Heart of Esthetics: Creating Loyal Clients and Achieving Financial Success.

The New York Palace Spa & Fitness Center in New York City, NY has a seasonal menu offer-ing called Hour of Power, which includes the guest’s choice of five different 25-minute mas-sage therapies (restorative massage, aromatic hot towel massage, reflexology, arnica muscle rejuvenation, and neck and shoulder massage). All services range from $115 to $125. These

shorter services are popular with the busy pro-fessionals that frequent this spa. A quick lunch-time treatment (and even a brief workout) is an easy way to take a short break from the hectic pace of the city.

Spa director Amelia Winfrey explains that the New York Palace, a 900-room hotel, markets mainly to hotel guests and business people in the area. There are a myriad of amenities to choose from. Those who want to break a sweat are provided with workout clothes and shoes; there are spa robes and slippers for the spa-goers; and take-away lunch options are available from the hotel’s in-house dining services.

Implementing lunchtime servicesWith all the hustle and bustle, it can be hard to find a little respite. If you do not already have lunch-time services on your menu, you should definitely consider implementing them into your offerings. There is a need, and therefore an opportunity, to accommodate the busy lives of professional women. If you already have a “mini facial” on your menu, why not rename it something that

would appeal to working women, such as Glow-on-the-Go or Lunchtime Power Hour? And if you can combine a couple of different services in an abbreviated time frame, all the better!

Here are some examples of mini treatments that you may be able to offer, depending on your spa’s resources:

With all the hustle and bustle, it can

be hard to find a little respite. If

you do not already have lunchtime

services on your menu, you should definitely consider

implementing them into your offerings.

THE SPA SAMPLER LUNCH MENU (COMBOS)• Scalpmassagewith

paraffin hand treatment• Minifacialwithhand

and arm massage• Bikiniwaxandeyetreatment• Pedicurewithheatedhand

treatment• Adda“boxlunch”toany

treatmentDUAL TECHNICIANS• Minifacialwithreflexology

treatment• Shouldermassagewithpedicure• Footmassagewithmanicure• Scalpmassagewithpedicure

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LIFESTYLE CHOICES THAT AFFECT SKIN HEALTH

creating beauty from the inside out

BY JENNIFER LINDER, M.D.

THERE IS NO DENYING THE DIRECT CORRELATION between lifestyle choices and the overall health of the skin. From a glowing, clear complexion to a dull and dehydrated appearance, the way we treat our body internally shows on the surface of the skin. Lack of sleep, smoking, alcohol con-sumption, poor diet and insufficient exercise will no doubt have an ill effect on the skin, but when the skin and the body are taken care of properly, the efforts show immensely.

SleepThe skin repairs, restores and rebalances itself overnight, which is why a solid eight hours of sleep each night is so vi-tally important. A few nights of missed sleep will leave the skin looking sallow, and the areas beneath the eyes dark and puffy. Prolonged lack of sleep can cause the release of the stress hormone cortisol, which can cause collagen degrada-

tion when produced in excess amounts. Too many sleepless nights can also lead to a decrease in human growth hormone production. This hormone is released during deep REM sleep, and scientists believe human growth hormone plays a part in normal tissue repair and increases skin thickness. On the other hand, too much sleep can be just as harmful to the skin, causing an increase in cellular breakdown.

Although getting enough sleep is imperative for overall cutaneous repair, sleeping positions can also play a role in skin health. Those who sleep on their backs generally avoid developing the fine lines and wrinkles that side and stomach sleepers incur from pressing their face into their pillow for long periods of time. Higher thread count or satin pillowcases tend to be gentler on the skin. When possible, choose white pillowcases, as fabric dyes can cause sensi-tive skin to react.


skin

SmokingSmoking is one of the most avoidable causes of disease and death across most societies. It also wreaks the most havoc on the body. The immediate effects that one cigarette has on the skin include vasoconstriction for up to 90 minutes and restriction of oxygen flow to the skin cells. Extended periods of restricted blood and oxygen flow lead to angiogenesis, or the creation of new vessels. This is why many smokers have reddened skin and visible broken blood vessels.

Nicotine, carbon monoxide and hydrogen cyanide are three highly toxic constituents of cigarette smoke that have devastating effects on the skin. Nicotine is known to be a va-soconstrictor resulting in ischemia, or restriction of the nutri-tional and oxygen-rich blood flow to the tiny vessels in the face. Carbon monoxide limits oxygen transport and metabolism, while hydrogen cyanide inhibits the enzymatic mechanisms required for necessary oxidative metabolism and the trans-portation of oxygen at the cellular level. This all boils down to a lack of oxygen in the skin, which is an absolute require-ment for healthy skin function. The skin will often appear dull and sallow, and in some instances may have a yellowish tinge.

The best and most effective solution is to quit smok-ing altogether. Patients suffering with smokers’ skin should adopt a comprehensive daily care regimen with powerful collagen-building peptides, antioxidant protection and broad spectrum sunscreen. Treatments that infuse the skin with a topical oxygen source and protective antioxidants may also mitigate the negative effects smoking has on the skin.

Alcohol consumptionAlcoholic beverages have a dehydrating effect on the skin and can deplete the necessary water that serves as an in-ternal moisturizer. When the skin is dehydrated, there are many unflattering visible effects. The complexion becomes dull and sallow, pores enlarge, fine lines and wrinkles appear more prominently, especially around the delicate eye area, and cellular turnover slows down due to an increase in kera-tinocyte cohesion. Alcohol also acts as a vasodilator and can cause permanent damage to the intricate network of capil-laries, leading to telangiectasias (spider veins), particularly in those who suffer from rosacea.

Like smoking cigarettes, the most effective way to avoid the potentially damaging effects alcohol has on the skin is to abstain from excessive drinking. The occasional alcoholic beverage is generally fine to consume, but it should always be followed by an eight ounce glass of water to replenish and rehydrate the skin. Since alcohol dehydrates the skin and body, applying a moisturizer containing glycerin, shea butter or niacinamide will help to restore parched skin.

Diet Diet has an enormous impact on the overall health of the skin and the body. A diet that is low in essential nutrients and min-erals will eventually show on the surface of the skin, causing it to appear dull or sallow. Conversely, when one’s diet is rich in antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, proper water intake and

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other vital nutrients, the skin will be clear and even. Many of the sensitive skin conditions we aim to treat as skin health profes-sionals can be exacerbated by the foods our patients consume.

Conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis can all be triggered by poor dietary choices. Although tying a direct link is difficult, there seems to be evidence that a diet high in refined sugars and carbohydrates, saturated fats and other processed foods can lead to an increase in acne breakouts. Because these refined foods spike insulin levels, sebum pro-duction also increases, often overproducing. This uptick in sebum production along with increased keratinization within the follicle can result in a clogged follicle.

Although the exact cause of eczema is still unknown, suf-ferers may be prone to other allergy-related diseases, such as asthma and hay fever. Food allergies may also play a role in eczema; some studies suggest that nearly two-thirds of those with eczema also have allergies to a variety of foods, including dairy products, eggs, nuts and seeds, soy products and wheat.

For those with psoriasis, the dietary restrictions often ad-vised are quite similar to those of eczema sufferers. Avoiding processed and refined foods is key for some patients, along with other potentially inflammatory foods like eggs, fatty meats and most sources of gluten. Each individual’s triggers may vary greatly, but eliminating the most common trigger foods can often reduce the discomfort of psoriasis.

Dietary choices literally show up on the surface of the skin. Eating a diet rich in fresh fruits and vegetables, lean protein and plenty of water is a simple and healthy way to help keep the skin clear and glowing. Incorporating daily care prod-

ucts that contain powerful antioxidants like L-ascorbic acid, ergothioneine and lilac leaf extract, and omitting refined or processed foods improves the way the body functions and is thought to reduce the incidence of acne, eczema and psoriasis.

ExerciseExercise does more than just improve cardiovascular health; it also improves the functionality of the skin. Physical activity promotes healthy circulation and allows oxygen-rich blood to properly nourish skin cells. Exercise also helps to flush toxins, cellular debris, waste products and free radicals away from healthy functioning cells.

Exercising outdoors can pose harm to the skin if sunscreen is not used. It is absolutely vital to wear a water-resistant sun protection product to protect the skin from harmful UV rays while exercising outside. Of course, it is ideal to avoid outdoor activities between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., which are peak exposure hours, and to reapply sunscreen every two hours. Those who suffer from acne are advised to wear moisture wicking cloth-ing and to shower promptly after a workout to avoid further breakouts due to sweat and debris collecting in the follicles.

Frequent exercise is a lifestyle choice that nearly every-one can add to their daily routine to improve the health of their skin and body. The increased blood flow and improved circulation does wonders for the cardiovascular system, but also improves the functioning of healthy skin cells.

Lifestyles choices impact the skin and body, and can re-sult in either a beautiful, glowing complexion or one that is dull and lifeless. Getting adequate rest, avoiding cigarettes and consuming alcoholic beverages in moderation are all ways to keep the skin looking healthy and young. In addi-tion, eating a well-balanced diet, drinking plenty of water and exercising regularly will nourish cells while also keeping the body functioning the best way it can. Making wise lifestyle choices on top of a customized regimen of well-formulated daily care products and professional treatments is key to keeping the skin healthy and beautiful. n

Jennifer Linder, M.D. is a derma-tologist and Mohs micrographic skin surgeon. She serves as chief scien-tific officer for PCA SKIN® and runs a private practice out of Scottsdale, AZ. Dr. Linder holds a clinical faculty position in the department of derma-tology at the University of California, San Francisco. She is a spokesper-son for The Skin Cancer Foundation and a member of the American Academy of Dermatology, the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, and the American College of Mohs Surgery.

skin

Eating a well-balanced diet, drinking plenty of water and exercising regularly will nourish cells while also keeping the body functioning the best way it can.

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SKIN

NEW

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BRIGHTER SKINPevonia introduced Lumablanc® Cream, an intensive solution to hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This moisturizer enters the skin effortlessly and delivers actives in the area of concern to lighten hyperpigmentation, reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin

tones, says the company. Made with undaria pinnatifida (brown macro algae), licorice and vitamin C, the formula also contains sea buckthorn fruit extract, portulaca, ascorbyl glucoside and Micro-Retinol®.pevoniapro.com 800.446.3751

CLARIFIES AND ILLUMINATESHydroPeptide®’s newest Redefining Serum is an ultra sheer clearing treatment made for those concerned with congested skin, excess oil, hyperpigmentation and wrinkles. The anti-aging ultra sheer serum multi-tasks to keep complexion spots free while improving

skin tone and minimizing the appearance of fine lines, says the company. The serum promotes a clear and youthful complexion with a blend of clarifying and anti-wrinkle peptides, sacred lily growth factors and sea buckthorn. hydropeptide.com800.932.9873

LIFTED AND PLUMPEDThalgo introduces this month its Ultimate Time Solution Serum, which offers an ultra high performance for anti-aging action. This silky product infuses its exceptionally concentrated active ingredients at the very heart of skin cells, says the company. The Age Reverse Exclusive Patented Complex, a combination of precious marine and plant molecules, resets 100 percent of the fibroblast’s original contractile force for smoother and firmer skin.thalgousa.com 800.228.4254

COFFEE POWER GOODNESSLaunching this month is Repêchage®’s Biolight Frost Bright™ Eye Gel, a unique combination of brightening and cooling ingredients that, the company says, provides a long lasting lifting and de-puffing effect to instantly awaken tired eyes. This gel delivers a boost of energy from caffeine, while two peptides help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. repechage.com 800.248.SKIN

MORE NEWS


SENSATIONAL SHIELDBio-Therapeutic introduced the HD System Eye Masque for the dry, thin, delicate eye area. Its use immediately shows an increase in moisture, smoothing both light and deeper wrinkles, says the company. With hyaluronic acid as a hydrator and skin protector, and sargassum filipendula (sea algae) to firm, calm and soothe, it is excellent for tired eyes.bio-therapeutic.com800.976.2544

REFRESHING ACTIONDermaquest™ Skin Therapy’s C Infusion Eye Cream is an exceptional treatment specifically developed with orange stem cells and hyaluronic acid filling spheres™ that deeply hydrate and improve skin luster, says the company. The revitalizing effects of Eyeliss™ and Matrixyl™ reduce dark circles and increase circulation to the delicate skin under the eye. dermaquestinc.com800.213.8100

MEGA MOISTUREAmarté® launched the Ultra Veil® sunscreen, and the Aqua Line, a four piece collection of light, fresh skin care focused on antioxidant brightening and hydration. The sunscreen delivers broad spectrum UVA/UVB SPF 50, and features gingko biloba nut extract and five other botanical plant extracts to protect and condition the skin, while caviar extracts deliver a surge of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, says the company. The Aqua line includes a Mist Toner, a Pure Hydration Serum, a Lotion and a Cream.amarteskincare.com415.800.4453SKIN

NEW

S

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND

TREATMENTS

TURNING BACK THE CLOCKJindilli launched its Macadamia 50+ Skin Enrichment Range that includes products tailored to women in their 50s and older. The line has been created for the specific concerns of women in that age range to naturally hydrate, nourish, brighten

and calm the skin, says the company. Its Healthy-Aging Face & Neck Crème enlivens and refreshes mature skin thanks to full doses of macadamia oil, vitamin E, apple extract, sweet orange extract and purple passionflower. The collection includes a night crème, day crème, scar pen and body butter, as well as treatment products.jindilli.com 855.463.4554



elasticity over time, leading to the ap-pearance of fine lines around the mouth. These premature signs of aging can eas-ily be prevented simply by keeping the lips well moisturized. Getting the mois-ture of the lips back into balance is far more difficult than preventing healthy lips from becoming dry in the first place.

Without proper care, lips can also suf-fer from environmental, physical and UV damage, leading to a rapid loss of colla-gen and weakened elastin fibers, where lips will lose their natural plumpness and smooth texture. The skin around the lips is much more sensitive than other skin, making it more in need of attention. Fortunately, there are many treatments on the market that address these con-

FRAGILE AND PRECIOUS, THE LIPS are an essential component to a wom-an’s beauty; however they are likely the most neglected area in most of your cli-ents’ skin care regimens. Lips are usually only treated with a color or gloss. Unlike other areas of the skin, the lips do not secrete sebum, which is the natural way the body balances moisture on the skin’s surface. When the lips are chronically dry, the skin surrounding them loses

cerns and provide great ingredients for curing dry lips.

Offering lip treatments as a stand-alone or add-on to any service is a po-tentially lucrative opportunity that you do not want to pass on. There is no shortage of possible lip treatments you can incorporate into your spa menu. A wide variety of lip services are already available in spas all over the country:

Cassianna Spa in Arlington, VA offers a treatment called the Lip Smoother (30 minutes, $30 or $25 if added to any fa-cial service). The treatment starts with a retinol serum massaged into the lip con-tour to ensure deep penetration. This is followed by the application of a colla-

by Kat Burki

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gen sheet masque for hydration. The treatment finishes with a retinol lip cream to lock in moisture.

Le Rêve Spa in Santa Barbara, CA treats lips to a naturally effective Lip Treatment (an add-on service for any facial, 15 minutes, $15). Gentle fruit enzymes refine the lip area, fol-lowed by the application of an extra rich, deeply hydrating masque. The treatment is finished with a delicious, minty, non-petroleum based balm that stimulates lip plumping col-lagen. Clients are then encouraged to use a citrus lip balm continuously over a four-week period for a plumping action that fills in fine lines and makes lips voluptuous and youthful.

VKSkin Spa in Brooklyn, NY offers a Gold Anti-Aging Lip Treatment (30 minutes, $65). The service begins with a micro-current treatment of the lips that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the lip area, followed by the application of a gold collagen lip mask to redefine it, smooth out the lips’ contour and enhance their radiance.

The Spa at Equinox (nationwide) offers a seasonal Lip Enhancement (50 minutes, $65) service as an add-on for any other service. Technicians swipe products with marine collagen and peppermint leaf onto the lips, which increases hydration, smooths the lips’ contours and plumps them up.

To prolong the benefits of any lip treatment, advise your clients to avoid ingredients with high concentrations of pet-rolatum or mineral oils, as they can suffocate rather than pro-tect the skin. Formulations that include beeswax will create a protective barrier that allows nutrients to be delivered deep into skin cells while also enabling lips to breathe. In order to protect the lips, your clients will have to add another step to their skin care routine. But remind them that having lips that are full, youthful and healthy makes the effort totally worthwhile! n

Kat Burki began her career as a high-end residential designer. Sourcing arti-sans from all around the world for her namesake luxury furniture and fabric line led Burki to develop her own fragrance. Burki’s sense of design, finely tuned nose, high standards and superior ability to select effective, all natural ingredients has resulted in the cre-ation of a pure, uplifting and refined beauty line.

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Formulations that include beeswax will create a protective

barrier that allows nutrients to be delivered deep into skin cells.


THAI WHITE CLAYFEATURING:

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SIMPLE TREATMENTS TO RELIEVE AND REPAIR SKIN (OVER)-EXPOSED TO THE SUN! Ytsara Summer Spa Essentials include treatments that use products with ingredients to nourish, calm, cool and repair the skin such as Green Tea, Aloe Vera, Cucumber, Thai White Clay and Bamboo & Coconut Shoot.

YTSARA SUMMER SPA ESSENTIALS

Tropical Sun Soother Anti-Aging & Brightening Thai Facial Remedy

Green Tea Youth Booster Face & Body Mask

Traditionally known as “nature’s sunblock,” Thai White Clay is an all over face and body panacea used for its cooling and healing properties that gives instant relief and protection from the burning effects of the sun. Naturally balances moisture levels, calms redness, soothes burns, brightens, softens and smooths complexion.

A rich anti-oxidant mask enriched with Thai White Clay. Green Tea contains anti-oxidant polyphenols that help eliminate free radicals and safeguard healthy cells against over-exposure to the sun.

CALMING BODY GELFEATURING:

A highly addictive and easy to use, 2-in-1 moisturizing body scrub that is not rinsed, so it eliminates dead skin cells, while hydrating and softening the skin with botanical rich elements. Aloe vera and cucumber nourish while sweet orange, lavender and lemongrass calm and soothe.

Ytsara Green Tea Youth Booster Sun Care & Repair Body Mask

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THERAPY TO YOUR CLIENTS

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1. MINERALOGIE • Vitamin E Stick in Moxie • Mineral Blush in Classy Coral mineralogiemakeup.com

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BEACH READY?Are your clients

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1. MINERALOGIE • Vitamin E Stick in Moxie • Mineral Blush in Classy Coral mineralogiemakeup.com

2. CLEAR MY HEAD • Clear My Head Ache clearmyhead.com

3. EMMA JEAN • Scented Nail Paint in Jamaican • Scented Nail Paint in The Vineyard emmajeancosmetics.com

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6. SATIN SMOOTH • Scarlet Berry Wax with Acai • Organic Honey Wax with Argan satinsmooth.com

7. OSMOSIS • Elevate ATP & DNA Repair osmosisskincare.com

8. LVX • Midori • Deco shoplvx.com

9. LUMAVERA • Filler Dual Peptide Lip Volumizer lumavera.com

10. SOMBRA • Warm Therapy Natural Pain Relieving Gel sombrausa.com

11. IMPALA NAIL COLOR • Listrado Nail Color • Garota Pop Nail Color mundialimpala.com

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13. DURI • Plum Seduction • Orange Karma duri.com

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17. NUSHAPE • Weight Management nusirt.com

BEACH READY?Are your clients

1. SOTHYS USA • Enhancer Body Peeling Wrap sothys-usa.com

2. BIOSLIMMING • Active Slim Gel, Active Slim Cream and Ultra Slim Effect Kit bioslimming.com

3. CONTROL CORRECTIVE • Intensive Body Smoothing Lotion controlcorrective.com

4. IMAGE SKINCARE • Cell.U.Lift imageskincare.com

5. FARMHOUSE FRESH • Sweet Tea Whipped Body Scrub farmhousefreshgoods.com

6. BIO-THERAPEUTIC • Exfoliate bio-therapeutic.com

7. ERBAVIVA • Shaping Oil erbaviva.com

8. VITELLE LABS • Seaweed Infusion Body Wrap vitellelab.com

9. ILIKE ORGANIC SKIN CARE • Circulation Revitalizing Body Lotion szepelet.com

10. B. KAMINS LABORATORIES • Maple Butter Body Wrap bkamins.com

11. MESOESTHETIC USA • Slimming Shock mesoesteticusa.com

12. RHONDA ALLISON • Nude Therapies Kit rhondaallison.com

13. BIOTONE • Serenity Lavender and Orange Aromatherapy Massage Lotion biotone.com

14. GLYMED PLUS • Alpha Therapeutic Hand and Body Lotion glymedplus.com

15. ÉMINENCE • Blueberry Soy Slimming Body Wrap us.eminenceorganics.com

16. HYDROPEPTIDE • Firming Moisturizer hydropeptide.com

17. PHYTOCEANE • Contouring and Firming lespausa.com

18. EVE TAYLOR • Cellu-lose Contour Cream evetaylornorthamerica.com

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2. BIOSLIMMING • Active Slim Gel, Active Slim Cream and Ultra Slim Effect Kit bioslimming.com

3. CONTROL CORRECTIVE • Intensive Body Smoothing Lotion controlcorrective.com

4. IMAGE SKINCARE • Cell.U.Lift imageskincare.com

5. FARMHOUSE FRESH • Sweet Tea Whipped Body Scrub farmhousefreshgoods.com

6. BIO-THERAPEUTIC • Exfoliate bio-therapeutic.com

7. ERBAVIVA • Shaping Oil erbaviva.com

8. VITELLE LABS • Seaweed Infusion Body Wrap vitellelab.com

9. ILIKE ORGANIC SKIN CARE • Circulation Revitalizing Body Lotion szepelet.com

10. B. KAMINS LABORATORIES • Maple Butter Body Wrap bkamins.com

11. MESOESTHETIC USA • Slimming Shock mesoesteticusa.com

12. RHONDA ALLISON • Nude Therapies Kit rhondaallison.com

13. BIOTONE • Serenity Lavender and Orange Aromatherapy Massage Lotion biotone.com

14. GLYMED PLUS • Alpha Therapeutic Hand and Body Lotion glymedplus.com

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18. EVE TAYLOR • Cellu-lose Contour Cream evetaylornorthamerica.com

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1. TEISPA • OxyCalming Serum teispa.com

2. SKINHEALIX • Solar Escape Sunscreen skinhealix.com

3. CIRCADIA • Vitamin A Boosting Cream circadia.com

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8. RENA LEVI SKIN CARE • The Amazing Scrub renaleviskincare.com

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10. RUBBER DUCKY • Waterblock Clear Zinc Sunscreen SPF 44 rubberduckysunscreen.com

11.PREMIER BY DEAD SEA • Metamorphosis Lifting Mask • 24h Quartz Gem premierdeadsea-usa.com

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13. SESHA SKIN THERAPY • Renu Exfoliating Gel seshaskin.com

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15. CAVIAR OF SWITZERLAND • 24h Regenerating Cream caviarofswitzerland.us

16. DERMAWARE • Vital Retinol Gel dermaware.com

17. COOLA SUNCARE • Citrus Mimosa Sport Spray SPF 30 coolasuncare.com

18. AILUJ • Esteem ailujskincare.com

19. LE MIEUX • Moisture Infusion Mask lemieuxcosmetics.com

20. PCA SKIN • Weightless Protection SPF 45 pcaskin.com

21. TIZO3 • Age Defying Fusion SPF 40 tizofusion.com

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FINDING THE STRETCH IN YOUR MASSAGE TREATMENT

Stiff, aching joints. Sore muscles. As a massage therapist, you may hear these complaints from clients all the time. Individuals who struggle with these symp-toms tend to be physically active. Sometimes they have just finished with a big exercise challenge. They arrive at your spa and want to know which type of massage service addresses these concerns. If they are looking for a massage that incorpo-rates stretching into its practice, they are probably looking for an “athlete’s massage,” “sports massage” or “Thai massage.”

In this type of massage, the therapist stretches the muscles both actively and passively. Cream or oil is used. For athletes, it is especially helpful to do active and passive stretching along with deep tissue and trigger point therapies. Depending on the goal of the service, the massage can also be limited to a deep tissue, trigger point therapeutic massage, stretching only the areas that have shortened.

Most massage therapists are taught these stretching tech-niques in training and do not need to pursue an extra license to incorporate stretching into their services. One exception is Thai massage, which requires specific training.

There are several ways to incorporate stretching into a mas-sage. Active stretching means that the client is a participant of the stretching experience. With passive stretching, the client is being stretched but does not have to do any of the work. A passive stretching session may be called a “Thai massage” or even “Thai yoga therapy.” These sessions are passive only and aim to achieve a relaxation response from your client.

In my opinion, during any type of massage, there are cer-tain parts of the body that should always be stretched. There are stretches that the client is simply not capable of doing on their own. The neck is at the top of this list. As a therapist, you can truly open the neck up to an increased range of motion. p

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Stretching the scalenes three ways There are three muscles that make up the scalenes. They are all in the side area of the neck, and each has its own insertion point (two insert at the first rib and the other inserts on the second rib). These muscles aid in proper breathing and mov-ing the neck to the side/lateral flexion. Move the neck in three different directions to stretch those muscles. When applied properly, these stretches will bring your client extreme relief. The foundation of this stretch involves pointing the nose in three different directions.

First, the nose faces directly at the ceiling, and then the ear is moved to the shoulder (for the anterior muscle that inserts on the first rib just below the collar bone). Second, turn the nose to the diagonal of the direction of that shoulder (for the medial scalene that also inserts on the first rib). Last, move the nose to the opposite diagonal direction of the shoulder (for the poste-

rior muscle that inserts to the second rib). This opens the neck up beautifully. It is important that the client does not attempt to help, and is content to relax and do nothing. Stressed out people often try to help and move the head on their own. This actually makes the technique more difficult to do, and benefits neither the client nor the therapist.

Incorporating a neck massageA neck stretch can be easily incorporated into a body wrap ser-vice or facial if the service technician is dually certified in mas-sage. The neck can be stretched while the client is in the body wrap, or added before or after a facial service to release ten-sion. A fair cost for this five to 15-minute add-on could range from $5 to $15, or it could be included as a complimentary service with the treatment.

A stand alone neck treatment would include shoulders and possibly the jaw. A proper treatment would last 30 minutes.

Stretching the hamstringsIn a “sports” or “athlete’s massage,” the client is undressed and properly draped. Oil or cream is used. As you treat the muscles and find places on the body that have been shortened or stressed, you will assess what type of stretching should be done to this area. The client may have to be an active partici-pant for part of this treatment if the muscles really need their awareness and participation. Following are some examples of both passive and active stretching during a massage session.

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SPAS THAT OFFER STRETCHING MASSAGE THERAPY

THE SPA AT MIRAVAL, Tucson, AZThai Massage 100 minutes, $275The Athletes Massage 80 minutes, $230

THE PGA NATIONAL RESORT AND SPA, West Palm Beach, FLSports Massage 50 minutes, $125Thai Massage 80 minutes, $160; 110 minutes, $200

THE BLISS SPAS (countrywide)Sports/Stretch Therapy Massage (only in New York City locations) 60 minutes, $150 This massage entails assisted stretching in clothing, similar to the process of a Thai massage.Extreme Sports Massage (countrywide) 60 minutes, $155; 85 minutes, $220

BY EMILY A. FRANCIS


Both active and passive stretchingOne form of passive stretching is to simply extend your client’s leg and lift it as high as it will go. However, people often cheat during this stretch by lifting the opposite hip off the table. This negates the stretch. You may avoid this by adding in a technique called contract, relax, stretch. For this technique, place the client’s straight leg up on your shoulder for support and ask them to tighten the muscle and push against your shoulder to activate it. This is the contract part of the equa-tion (active). The client’s part is now done, and you will ask them to stay in the same position but stop flexing the muscle and relax (again passive). Once relaxed, the therapist is able to take the leg further into a stretch that they were unable to

achieve just a minute earlier. This is a passive stretch. It is a great way to access the muscles and bring them past the usual stopping points. It also helps to retrain the muscle memory and increase flexibility and range of motion. You can use the contract-relax-stretch application for every muscle in the body.

Active stretching The therapist might have the client participate fully (active stretching), and ask them to hold their own leg. Once com-fortable, the client lifts their head toward the knee and walks the hands up higher toward the ankle. Once the leg becomes comfortable in that place, your client will lower their head down and continue to hold the stretch. Just putting the head back onto the table will immediately increase the range of motion in the stretch. It is important to note that when the cli-ent puts their head back down, they should tuck their chin in to make this stretch more effective. This elongates the spine and deepens the stretch by being in better alignment all over.

Passive stretching During a Thai massage, the client lies fully clothed on a mat on the floor. As the therapist, you do all the work for the client to increase the range of motion of the hamstrings. Use the cli-ent’s own relaxation as the pathway to increase the stretch. n

The photos shown on this page are from the book Stretch Therapy: A Comprehensive Guide to Basic and Assisted Stretching by Emily A. Francis.

Emily A. Francis is a continuing education provider through the National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage and Bodywork for Stretch Therapy. Francis studied clinical and neuromuscular massage therapy at the Atlanta School of Massage, and is a graduate of the Dr. Vodder School International, where she was educated in manual lymphatic drainage and combined decongestive therapy. Francis is also certified in both pediatric massage therapy and kinesio tape. She is the author of Stretch Therapy: A Comprehensive Guide to Basic and Assisted Stretching. Learn more at emilyafrancisbooks.com.

spa|finding the stretch in your massage treatment

1. Ear to shoulder 2. Nose to diagonal of shoulder 3. Nose to opposite shoulder diagonal 4. This is what a stretch to the neck would look like in a Thai massage session5-6. Active stretching 7. Thai massage

THE NECK CAN BE STRETCHED WHILE THE CLIENT IS IN THE BODY WRAP, OR ADDED BEFORE OR AFTER A FACIAL

SERVICE TO RELEASE TENSION.

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SWEETEN UP YOUR SERVICE MENU

SUMMER IS A GREAT TIME TO GET CREATIVE and innovative with fruit-based treatments for the face and body. Adding sweet, refreshing op-tions to your treatment menu can entice more guests into your spa during the steamy summer months. This season offers a great opportunity to create skin care services that provide a relax-ing retreat from the summer heat!

For centuries, women around the world have used fruit and plant-based home remedies to nix everything from dry skin to pesky pimples. Thankfully, we are heading back to our roots. Fruits are not only good for us to eat, but when applied topically they offer a variety of skin health benefits.

In order to increase the nourishing, hydrating and healing benefits of your fruit treatment, add some honey to the pulp. This will also increase the amount of antioxidants (vitamin E) while sta-bilizing the consistency of a homemade mask.

Adding yogurt will help to remove dead cells with its lactic acid content, and makes the skin very silky soft. Yogurt also brightens dark spots and decreases hyperpigmentation.

Using these basics for your treatment, here are some great seasonal fruits that will have your clients’ complexions glowing this summer!

Sour cherries Age-defying sour cherries are considered super fruits. Loaded with nourishing vitamins, they are an-tioxidant superstars that protect skin from damaging free radicals and decrease inflammation, making them great anti-aging agents for younger skin. Due to their high vitamin C content, sour cherries are known for improving and brightening skin’s com-plexion, tightening pores and nourishing the skin.

SKIN TYPES: Devitalized, stressed, pale, normal to combination, large pored skin.

SUMMER fruits

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At The Spa at Travaasa in Austin,

TX, the Clarifying Back Treatment restores

balance, clarity and radiance to the skin.


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BY SZILVIA HICKMAN

In Washington, D.C., within eyeshot of the city’s famous cherry trees, the Spa at Mandarin Oriental offers a Cherry Blossom Treatment (80 minutes, $225/250, weekday/weekend). The guest is treated to an application of a warmed exfoliating cream with cherry blossom rice pow-der. This is followed by an exfoliating massage that softens the skin and invigorates the body. The therapist then performs an energizing re-flexology foot massage before concluding the experience with a full body massage using melt-ed aromatic shea butter.

Apples Who has not heard the old saying “an apple a day keeps the doctor away?” Not only are apples good for the body, they are also great for the skin. Reach for this sweet and tangy mouth watering fruit to brighten skin instantly for those clients who are suf-

fering from tired, stressed out skin. An apple con-tains vitamins A, B and C, along with antioxidant properties that relieve damage due to constant exposure to dirt and grime. The malic acid content cleans pores for a clearer, brighter complexion.

SKIN TYPES: Normal to oily, acne prone or devitalized skin.

At Kelly’s Spa at The Mission Inn in Riverside, CA, guests can indulge in the Pear and Green Apple Body Polish (50 minutes, $120), a nu-tritious organic body polish that leaves skin smooth. The luxurious exfoliating body scrub is formulated with raw sugar cane, vitamin C rich green apples and pears, jojoba and vitamin E enriched sunflower seed oil to eliminate dull, rough patches on the skin. This natural treatment is finished with a velvety smooth soufflé of green apple and pear.

Due to their high vitamin C content, sour cherries are known for improving and brightening skin’s complexion, tightening pores and nourishing the skin.

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Lemon Smooth, even-toned skin is a hallmark of youthful beauty. As people age, the melanin in skin can hyper-produce due to sun exposure and hormon-al imbalances, leading to patches of darkened skin. Spots can appear on the hands, arms and face. Freckles are a form of hyperpigmentation that can be bothersome to those who suffer from them. If a client is seeking treatment for spots and freckles, break out the lemons.

This refreshing, zesty fruit can bring a healthy glow to otherwise dull, dry skin. The natural vi-tamin C in the acid works as a bleaching agent that leads to an overall brighter complexion.

SKIN TYPES: All skin types, especially those with hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone or dull skin.

At The Spa at Travaasa in Austin, TX, the Clarifying Back Treatment (25 minutes, $75) restores balance, clarity and radiance to the skin. Organic lemon, wild-crafted sandalwood and bitter orange exfoliate, purify and decongest pores. Other ingredients used in this treatment to control excessive oil production and remove pore clogging impurities include algae extract and sun-dried green and white clays.

Apricots Apricots, one sure sign of summer, are more than just a tasty fruit. Luscious, fragrant sun-ripened apricots contain many vitamins with regenerative

properties for the skin. The vitamin A content of apricot dramatically increases as it ripens. This potent beta-carotene boosts the skin’s natural defense against the sun’s damaging rays. In ad-dition, apricots contain silica, which helps skin retain elasticity, clarity and suppleness for that enviable dewy, healthy glow.

SKIN TYPE: Normal to dry, premature or mature skin.

The Awaken Vitality Massage & Wellness Studio in Cedar Rapids, IA, offers a Micro-Buff Body Polish (60 minutes, $69), a crème based exfoliation treatment that incorporates apricot powder and micronized buffing beads with natural luffa to gently refine and smooth skin. Skin radiance and smoothness are revived while dryness, flakiness and rough areas are polished away. Wheat, apricot and alpha-hydroxy lactic acids accelerate cell renewal to soften skin. Ideal for sensitive skin, this treatment refines and lifts away dead skin.

Summer is a wonderful time of year—but along with it comes unique weather and sun-related skin concerns. The skin needs regular cleansing, toning and moisturizing to naturally maintain a glowing com-plexion. Seasonal fruit treatments will boost appeal for clients looking to refresh their skin this summer. By taking advantage of the rich variety of summer fruits that are at their peak, you can be confident that you are helping to protect, replenish, hydrate and refresh your clients’ skin all summer long. n

Szilvia Hickman is co-owner and senior vice president of Szép Élet, the exclusive distribu-tor of ilike organic skin care. She is also a mem-ber of the Green Spa Network Personal Care Product Committee (greenspanetwork.org). For more information on ilike organic skin care products call 888.290.6238 or visit szepelet.com. Hickman can be reached at [email protected].

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Luscious, fragrant sun-ripened apricots

contain many vitamins with regenerative

properties for the skin.

AppleStrengthens and

protects skin cells

EdelweissA potent anti-wrinkle

treatment

GrapeProtects from UV rays and

environment stress

OrangeMinimizes fine lines/wrinkles,

cellular regenerator

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BY JERI ROSS, M.P.H.coconut

THE AROMA OF FRESH COCONUT embodies the tropical experience of relaxation, health and natural beauty. While the heady scent and smooth texture of coconut oil feels like pure indulgence during a body treatment, the fruit itself offers more than just an aromatic, relaxing experience. Coconut, known as one of nature’s most nourishing fruits, revitalizes the skin from the outside and restores healthy skin and hair from the inside.

Jewel of the tropicsThe coconut (cocos nucifera) is regarded as the jewel of the tropics. Although its center of ori-gin or birthplace is believed to have been the islands of the South Pacific, the coconut itself is not the type of plant to remain static. The seed (the coconut itself) floats! By being such a buoy-ant seed (a big one at that!), it traveled around the world. The nut floated for long distances on ocean currents, and when it washed ashore on a

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beach with a suitable climate, the plant became established and colonized the area. The coconut palm has been cultivated for thousands of years.

Beneficial properties of coconutsCoconut oil is ideal for skin and hair care because it contains mostly fats, so it acts as an emollient that naturally softens, restores and moisturizes. It helps protect the skin from the aging ef-fects of free radicals. In fact, physiologist and

biochemist Ray Peat, Ph.D. considers coconut oil to be an antioxidant, due to its stability and resistance to oxidation and free radical forma-tion. For best results, it is important to use only extra virgin coconut oil that has not been hy-drogenated, bleached, refined or deodorized.

Coconut oil provides the following health and anti-aging beauty benefits for skin:• Itimprovesthequalityandappearance

of skin by eliminating dead skin cells and reducing flaking skin

• Itsoftensandhealssmallwoundscausedby acne or pimples

• Itsoothesitchinessanddryness(effectivefor dermatitis and psoriasis)

• Itpossessesprovenantibacterialandantifungal properties

• Ithydrateshairandscalp

The cherished coconut is gaining new sta-tus as a sophisticated super food. When asked what he recommended eating for better skin, Nicholas Perricone, M.D., author of The Wrinkle Cure, responded, “Coconut. Eating coconut helps strengthen the skin’s connective tissues to help keep skin soft, smooth and supple. Both coconut oil and coconut water increase skin ra-diance and antioxidant protection to prevent infection and fight off free radicals.”

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At the Indulgence by the Sea Spa in St. Maarten, I elected to try their Luscious Body (80 minutes, $120) treatment, which offered hydration and exfoliation using raw sugar granules, rich virgin coconut oil and mango.


Ancient coconut beauty ritualsI was fortunate to have a personal experience at the origin of ancient coconut treatments when I was in the Caribbean last September. At the Indulgence by the Sea Spa in St. Maarten, I elect-ed to try their Luscious Body (80 minutes, $120) treatment, which offered hydration and exfolia-tion using raw sugar granules, rich virgin coconut oil and mango.

My massage therapist, Avis Myers, being a local from the islands, kindly taught me more about this magical fruit, the coconut. “In the Caribbean Islands, the coconut has been used for hundreds of years to nourish and heal the skin. I remember as a child my grandmother showed me how to grate coconut meat to use as a body scrub. We would make skin and hair balms made with coconut milk and oil,” she explained.

Signature coconut treatmentsThe coconut found a home in all of the islands it floated by centuries ago. Today, coconut treat-ments have taken root in spas across the United States. The trending popularity of the coconut, no doubt, will continue to inspire the creation of luxuri-ous signature spa treatments for a very long time.

At the Bellagio spa in Las Vegas, NV, one of their most decadent treatments is the Deep Coconut Surrender (80 minutes, $250), designed to hydrate and protect the skin from the desert’s dryness. During the deep tissue treatment, clients are mas-saged with warm rocks and hot towels, and warm coconut milk is drizzled along the spine and legs.

At the Ti Kayé Resort & Spa in Castries, Saint Lucia, clients’ bodies are gently rubbed and then wrapped with pure coconut in the coconut (90 minutes, $150) treatment. The service includes an oriental foot ritual, coconut body scrub, coconut body wrap and body massage with coconut oil.

left to right: Jeri Ross and Avis Myers of Indulgence by the Sea Spa in St. Maarten

Super fruit mustCoconut’s evocative fragrance and the soft, smooth texture of coconut oil revitalize both body and soul. This super fruit, as it turns out, is very good for skin and hair. If your clients do not have time for a trek to the tropics, you can provide them with their very own coconut adventure in the island oasis of your spa. n

Jeri Ross, M.P.H., is a li-censed health educator with Institut’ DERMed Clinical Skin Care and creator of CelluliteRx treat ment products. For more information, visit idermed.com or cellu-literxworks.com, or email Ross at [email protected].

spa|the cherished coconut

Coconut’s evocative fragrance and the soft, smooth texture of coconut oil revitalizes both body and soul.

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POTENT RADIANCEImage Skincare’s Iluma Intense Lightening Body Lotion is a revolutionary newly launched intense brightening cream that dramatically improves the complexion and skin tone, says the company. The lotion contains an exclusive complex to even out skin discolorations, age spots and hyperpigmentation. Vectorize Technology™ is the unique delivery system found in Iluma, in which encapsulated ingredients are released layer after layer once applied to the skin. imageskincare.com 800.796.7546

HINDERS AND HYDRATESThe Académie Scientifique de Beauté’s Body Lotion with Hair Regrowth Inhibitor is a post depilatory cream that limits the development of ingrown hairs, says the company. Body hair is under control, less dense, finer and lighter. No ugly red bumps!myRDM.com 972.771.0300

CREAMY COOLLady Burd’s new Zenful Body Moisturizer is a hydrating lotion infused with vitamins, green tea and shea butter. Green tea helps to reduce wrinkles and the signs of aging, while shea butter soothes eczema. Vitamins A and E are powerful antioxidants that help protect against free radicals and boost collagen. The cream also contains pistachio seed oil. ladyburd.com800.345.3448

HARMONIOUSMOISTURE Control Corrective Skincare Systems® Oil Free Healing Lotion is a fresh and light formula that brings skin hydration and balance without the grease, says the company. The soothing, silky lotion with a hint of citrus not only purifies, tones and repairs excessively oily skin, but helps to reduce sebum imbalances. The concentrated antioxidant-rich moisturizer can be applied in small amounts once or twice daily.controlcorrective.com866.290.4290

BODY,EQUIPMENTAND SUPPLYPRODUCTS

MORE NEWS


SPA

NEW

SSLIMDOWN FIXThalgo launches this month its Stomach and Waist Sculptor, specially formulated to refine, reshape and re-sculpt the stomach and waist area, says the company. At the heart of the formula is the Sculpt Active Technology, a combination of Marine Silicium Complex and a latest generation plankton extract. This highly effective innovation promotes

the tensing of all the layers and stops adipocyte expansion. The volume of the abdominal area is significantly reduced; the waist is tightened and looks refined. thalgousa.com 800.228.4254

SLIMS AND TONESCircadia by Dr. Pugliese’s Professional Firming and Shaping Gel is a light, fast absorbing gel that noticeably smoothes and tightens targeted areas, improving the

appearance of skin texture and cellulite, says the company. Caffeine enhances circulation while butcher’s broom extract reduces inflammation to lessen areas with dimpled skin. Cornmint oil invigorates and refreshes the skin with a cooling sensation. The gel was awarded LNE & Spa Best Product 2013.circadia.com 800.630.4710

HYDRATING BARRIERLe Mieux’s latest Vita-C Skin Protective Crème SPF 30 hydrates and brightens the skin while shielding it against damaging UVA/UVB rays, the company says. Available in natural tint, translucent and untinted, Vita-C offers an extra boost of intense hydration while providing superior anti-aging defense against the skin damaging effects of sun exposure. The sunscreen features hyaluronic acid, bacaba fruit oil, kukui, jojoba, vitamin C and E, chamomile extract and shea butter. The micronized titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide work as safeguards against damaging rays.lemieuxcosmetics.com888.327.8188

READY TO BAREGuinot unveiled its Longue Vie Pieds, a rejuvenating formula of 56 biological active ingredients that deeply penetrate the skin to help stimulate cell renewal and repair cracked, dry and blistered feet, says the company. Formulated with Liposkin, which nourishes and rebuilds the skin, sweet almond oil and shea butter—for hydration—Microcidine and Allantoin, the cream comes just in time for sandal season! guinotusa.com 212.532.1030

BODY,EQUIPMENTAND SUPPLY

PRODUCTS

FORREADY

GUIDE

Get your clients

beach ready with

supplements, on-trend

beach ready treatments

and products.

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GET YOUR CLIENTS BEACH READY

BY CAROLINE CANETTI

SUMMER IS HERE, and that means your clients are scrambling to get bikini-ready for their summer vacations, beach days and poolside afternoons. Do you have all the right treatments to get your clients prepared for the season from head to toe?

If not, here is a sampling of what some spas around the country are offering to get their bikini-clad clients in tip-top shape, including sun protection hair treatments, hydrating facials, wraps for body contouring and slimming, exfoliating scrubs, sunless tanners and even a service for “beach feet.”

Beach Ready Spa in Seaside, FL offers their clients treat-ments that are literally head-to-toe, starting with a Hair & Scalp Treatment (25 minutes, $35) that acts as a natural UV filter, made with argan oil, Dead Sea minerals and seaweed. “It’s a leave-in treatment that we put on wet hair to give them that beachy wet look, and it has the added boost of UV protection. Our clients love it!” says Lead Esthetician Lindsay Eberhart.

Consider adding slimming, firming,

body contouring and/or cellulite reducing

wraps to your summer specials.


At Spa at Oak Haven clients take home the exfoliating gloves used during treatment, their personal exercise and diet plan, a copy of measurements and a wellness journal.

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Moving onto the face, the perfect summer facial menu includes ultra-hydrating facials, cooling facials and facials spe-cifically for those who had a bit too much sun. (See our article on sunburn facials, page 81). The most popular summer facial at Voda Spa in West Hollywood, CA is a combination of all three. Their Antioxidant Fresh Fruit Facial (50 minutes, $145) helps fight damage caused by overexposure to the sun with a chilled mask of berries, yogurt and honey. When they do have summer specials, they promote them via an e-blast to their clients and on a “Summer Specials” tab on their website.

Offering your clients many options to get their body in shape is a great way to increase summer numbers as well. Consider adding slimming, firming, body contouring and/or cellulite reducing wraps to your summer specials. (For a complete rundown on cellulite treatments, see the article on page 74).

The Spa at Oak Haven in Sevierville, TN is introducing a few innovative body treatments using the additional talents of

their staff. For instance, they are combining a slimming body wrap with a fitness consultation to capitalize on their esthetician, who is also a licensed fitness trainer. “This is a holistic approach to treating your inner and outer self. For the wrap, we’ll take their measurements before and after, and while the client is

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burrito-ed up in a detoxifying body wrap, the therapist will do a consultation and ask about their diet, exercise, lifestyle and goals, and cre-ate a customized fitness plan for them to take home,” says Spa Director Emily McBrayer.

The 90-minute initial treatment ($109-$129) includes a 20-minute personal goal evaluation, body fat analysis and measurements, a 50-min-ute body wrap with exfoliation, and a 20-minute personal kick-start plan with exercise and diet goals. Clients take home the exfoliating gloves used during treatment, their personal exercise and diet plan, a copy of measurements and a wellness journal. The follow-up series ($69-$99) includes a 60-minute treatment, journal review and a 30-minute coaching session.

McBrayer is also creating a treatment around her massage therapist who is also a yoga in-structor. “They’ll get a personal yoga class cus-tomized for what the client’s body needs. They’ll get stretched out and then get the massage. It’s a great way to really get the most of our tal-ented staff and to give our clients something unique,” she says.

For those who do not want to actually work out to slim down for summer, consider adding an electric muscle-stimulating machine to your list of spa essentials. The Cellulite Clinic in Studio City, CA uses this in their Body Tone Sculptor Series, which is geared toward a client who is already at their ideal size or weight, but wants to tone, tighten and define their muscles.

“This is great for getting bikini ready. It’s the lazy man’s workout because you’re sweating and your muscles are moving, but you are just lay-ing there watching reruns of Sex and the City as the machine does all of the work,” says The Cellulite Clinic owner Dae Flesher of the series, which runs 45 minutes and is sold in series of as few as four sessions ($390) and up to 16 ses-sions ($1,050). Clients can also target their most troubled spots, such as their mid-section, with a target area add-on ($25).

Another pre-poolside pick me up offered at The Cellulite Clinic is the Anti-Cellulite Coffee Mud Wrap (45 minutes, $99), which is very pop-ular with celebrities and models for reducing cellulite and tightening skin. “This is one of our most popular summer treatments. A client will call up in a panic saying, ‘I’m going to be

Offer your clients something to get their feet ready to look

good in sandals and flip-flops.

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at the Vegas pool tomorrow, get me in today!’ It’s because this is the one treatment you can do in one session where you see the difference instantly,” says Flesher.

The next step for getting a client in beach body shape is an exfoliating scrub that readies the skin for spray tans or self-tanners. “Tanners stay on better when the body is properly prepped by getting rid of that dead skin and making way for new skin,” says Eberhart of their Beach Ready Body Scrub (50 minutes, $95; 80 minutes, includ-ing a 25-minute massage, $245). “We update this treatment for summer by adding our seasonal scents, which are pineapple-orange and coconut this year. We also use these scents in our mani-cures and pedicures,” she adds.

Of course, another body treatment that clients love for summer is a firming treatment, such as Beach Ready Spa’s Seaweed Firming Treatment (50 minutes, $115). “It uses mineral rich seaweed to give a more toned, tightened look to your skin, and it improves texture as well. We finish this treat-ment off with an antioxidant green tea hydrator because it’s important not just to hydrate the face, but the body as well,” says Eberhart.

Bikini and Brazilian waxes are also great ser-vices to push for summer, but some spas have interesting add-ons for their waxing services. The Spa at White Barn Inn in Kennebunk Beach, ME, for instance, offers the Bikini Smoother (30 minutes, $85), which is recommended for 48 hours after a bikini wax to help prevent ingrown hairs, breakouts or bumps.

Last but not least, offer your clients some-thing to either get their feet ready to look good in sandals and flip-flops, or to care for those “beach feet” after a hard day of barefoot beach volleyball. Calming Waters Spa in Kingsland, GA hits the nail on the head with their aptly named Beach Feet (30 minutes, $35) treatment, which features exfoliation, massage and a foot mask.

Voda Spa takes their clients’ feet seriously with their Heal Your Heels (60 minutes, $75) treatment, which includes a healing soak, moisturizing exfolia-tion, a hot stone massage and a soothing, hydrat-ing butter blend massaged from knees to toes. This is topped, of course, with the perfect polish.

As with any new season, summer packages are a great way to get clients to sample a variety of your spa’s treatments. La Samanna Spa in St.

Martin offers the Sun Preparation Package (150 min-utes, $345), which includes their French body polish, a Swedish massage with avocado oil and a purifying facial. Beach Ready Spa has five summer packages to get their clients ready head-to-toe, including one of their most popular—the Get Beach Ready pack-age (three and a half hours, $295), which includes a 50-minute Beach Ready Body Scrub, 25-minute re-laxation massage, custom facial and spa pedicure.

The Spa at Oak Haven had success last summer with their Summer Sampler Massage Package (60 minutes, $99; 90 minutes, $119), which included a combination of two of their most popular massages, the Spa Rock and Bamboo Massage with a body brush exfoliation. Guests were given the body brush as a take-home treat. “This was a great way to get clients to sample a few of our treatments in the hope that they’ll come back and book one as a full treatment, and it worked,” says McBrayer.

The treatment menu is not the only part of your spa that needs summer-izing! Go through the retail area and make sure that you have items that are beach-ready. Hot summer sellers include tinted moisturizers and lip balms with SPF, self-tanners, sunscreen for the face, body and lip, and hydrating mists to bring to the beach. And thinking outside of the box by add-ing some beach items in fun, bright colors, such as broad-brimmed hats for more sun protection, sun-glasses, swimwear, cover-ups or flip-flops can add to your retail sales.

“We’re right on the beach so our customers don’t wear a lot of makeup. But the tinted moisturizers with sun protection that we sell are great so they can have a little bit of coverage that’s appropriate for the beach,” says Eberhart, who says a popular retail item for them is their oil-free, sheer tinted moisturizer with SPF 20.

And most importantly, spas need to keep their clients (and media) consistently informed about what they are up to every season. In addition to announc-ing your summer specials, treatments and packages to the media via a press release, your newsletter, website and e-blast, have some fun with social media this season to help spread the word. Consider creat-ing a summer-themed pinboard on Pinterest or use Instagram to show off your seasonal products, beauti-ful photos of your spa and inspiring summer images. Do not forget to fully utilize your blog, newsletter and Facebook to offer clients useful summer tips on skin care, hydration, sunburn prevention, healthy eating, fitness and more. n

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“The most important thing in treating cellulite

is to understand that one treatment

does not fit all,” says Anita Brzezinski.

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THE BOOMING BUSINESS OF FIGHTING CELLULITETOP TREATMENTS TO TONE AND TIGHTEN

BY CAROLINE CANETTI

THEY SAY THAT NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER of invention, so with 90 percent of women suf-fering from cottage cheese thighs, dimple butts or orange peel skin—a.k.a. cellulite—it is no wonder that the number of different cellulite treatments keeps growing. From infrared sauna wraps and caffeine scrubs to lypo massage and ultrasound therapy, there are many ways to tackle this tricky problem.

Cellulite is fat trapped beneath the skin that pushes against connective tissue, having a dimpling effect on the skin. The myth that only heavyset people get cellulite is not true. In fact, it can be caused by hormonal factors, genetics, diet (especially diets high in fat, carbohydrates and salt), lifestyle (smokers and sedentary people are more likely to have it) and even prescrip-tion medications.

“The most important thing in treating cellulite is to understand that one treatment does not fit all,” says Anita Brzezinski, owner of Organelle Spa in Las Vegas, NV, who has 17 years of ex-perience treating cellulite. “There are different degrees of cellulite, but also each client has a different history. Each client needs to be assessed to find out about their diet, health and lifestyle, if they take medications, have a thyroid problem or are on hormone therapy. All of these things have an effect on the body, and before deciding which type of treatment to use on each client, a thorough intake needs to take place.” continues

Unlike with estheticians, massage thera-pists, or even eyelash technicians, there is not yet a certification or even unaccredited courses offered for cellulite therapy. It helps to have a massage therapy license, but people really need to educate themselves or hire someone with experience to walk them through the tech-nological equipment and methods, which is a service that Dae Flesher, owner of The Cellulite Clinic in Studio City, CA offers.

If you are considering adding cellulite treat-ments to your spa’s menu, knowing the different methods, how they work and what type of client is suitable for each is your first step.

INFRARED BODY WRAPS AND INFRARED SAUNASThe infrared body wrap or infrared sauna session is a great first step to any of the cellulite treatments, as it works to sweat out the toxins to prep the body for the treatment. “For clients living an unhealthy lifestyle—someone without a good diet or who drinks too much alcohol—I put them in the infra-red sauna for 30 minutes each time they come in for their cellulite treatment,” says Brzezinski, who offers one 25-minute infrared sauna session for $25 or a package of 10 for $200.

For the infrared body wrap, a client is simply wrapped up like a burrito in a heavy wrap and laid on a massage table to sweat. Some spas have

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water in the sauna; it is not weight loss, but it is an important way to detox the body,” says Flesher.

TRADITIONAL SAUNALikewise, simply sitting in a hot sauna consistently can help with cellulite reduction through the re-lease of water and toxins from sweating, especially when paired with a healthy diet and exercise.

“Health experts recommend spending be-tween eight to 10 minutes in the sauna per en-try, approximately two to five entries per visit,” says Shirin Azhdari, assistant spa manager at Voda Spa in West Hollywood, CA. The Voda Spa is known for their Russian Dry Banya, which is kept between 200-220 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity.

“However, we always tell our clients to listen to their bodies and stay properly hydrated,” Azhdari says. “To experience the greatest health benefits from sauna use, we recommend visit-ing the spa twice weekly.”

SKINNY BODY WRAP OR DETOX WRAPIn these wraps, which are marketed under a variety of names (skinny body wrap, inch-loss wrap, detox wrap or weight-loss wrap), the cli-ent is first wrapped in elastic bandages that are soaked in either minerals or herbs, and then wrapped in the hot infrared wrap.

“This treatment eliminates toxins and impu-rities that have built up in the body’s lymphatic system, which is the body’s dumping ground for waste. Removing toxins that have built up in your

cells allows you to break down cellulite easier. We use a natural herbal solution because I find the herbal to be more hydrating than the min-eral solutions,” says Flesher, whose The Super Skinni Body Wrap with Heat Therapy runs for 90 minutes, with one session costing $115, four ses-sions for $425, eight for $750 and 12 for $1,020.

Lindsay Eberhart, lead esthetician at Beach Ready Spa in Seaside, FL, says their Inch-Loss Body Wrap (110 minutes, $200) is one of their most popular body treatments—especially for summer! “You can lose inches in one session, and it’s especially great to do the day before, or morning of, a day you need to fit into a spe-cial dress, or for your wedding day or a special event. However, you get the best results with a series of six sessions for $960,” she says.

ENDERMOLOGIE (LYPO MASSAGE)“The oldest method is endermologie, a mechani-cal manipulation like a vacuum massager that you use to roll out cellulite. It’s a good lymphatic drainage technique. This works great on younger people whose skin elasticity is intact and they don’t need skin tightening,” says Brzezinski. Her Organelle Spa sells one endermologie session (lypo massage only) for $99, 10 for $889 or 15 for $1,189, as well as cavitation cellulite reduction for $299 or packages of 10 for $1,999.

The Cellulite Clinic’s 60-minute Lypo Massage runs $350 for four sessions and up to $925 for 16 sessions. “We typically do the lypo massage first and then put the client in our infrared heat wrap to help flush out the fat and fluids,” says Flesher.

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Pressotherapy


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THERMAL“This method works well with, for example, someone who is 150 pounds and 50 years old,” explains Brzezinski. “It uses radio frequency to shrink the collagen inside the skin. It heats the tissue and cellulite under the skin and makes it mushy, liquefied and then you use the massager on top of it to push it out through the lymphatic system. You secrete it through the urine.”

CRYO“This is the method where the fat cell is broken down by being chilled. This has more effect on localized fat, like on the stomach or hips or butt, as a spot treatment. An example of a person who is a good candidate for this is someone who is fit, but has that one area of fat that never goes away,” says Brzezinski, whose cryo-lipo cellulite reduction treatments run $399.

ULTRASOUND“This is most effective for cellulite. Therapeutic ultrasound at different velocities goes into the skin and vibrates the cellulite, which helps break down the molecules. This works especially well for the butt and legs,” says Brzezinski.

The Cellulite Clinic offers their UltraSound Fat Blast in 30-minute sessions (five for $550 and

10 for $800). “This kills the fat dead. The fat sits there for a few days dead and then the body rec-ognizes it’s a dead entity, and so it metabolizes it through the liver and it comes out through the bowels. We use a wand that has sound waves that we work over very targeted areas, such as a muffin top or love handles,” says Flesher.

BODY CONTOUR WRAPSThe Body Contour Wrap (two hours, $160) at the Spa at Oak Haven in Sevierville, TN is an-other take on the slimming, cellulite-reduction and detoxifying wraps. “The various treatments do differ in many ways, but really whether it’s marketed as a detox wrap, cellulite treatment, inch-loss wrap or slimming wrap, it’s doing the same thing,” says Oak Haven Spa Director Emily McBrayer. “They all stimulate your lymphatic system to help you flush toxins from under the skin, and that helps to smooth out the appear-ance of the skin.”

In this wrap in particular, whole body mea-surements are taken before and after the wrap and, according to McBrayer, a healthy person with less toxins typically loses three inches, while a less healthy person with more to purge can lose up to 12 inches. “Inch loss is a big draw for this, but it also helps with re-contouring, skin hydra-tion and smoothing and circulation,” she adds.

SCRUBS AND MUD WRAPSAnother useful method of cellulite reduction does not use mechanical manipulation at all. Rather, there are various scrubs and mud wraps on the market that work well. The Cellulite Clinic’s Malibu Massage (45 minutes; four sessions for $335 and up to 16 sessions for $1,000) combines the Java Junkie anti-cellulite scrub with a deep manual lymphatic massage, topped off with the infra-red heat wrap.

“You see a difference in the texture of the skin and in the cellulite after just a few treatments. This is also good for clients who prefer the manual feel of the massage as opposed to using the wand,” says Flesher.

The Clinic’s Anti-Cellulite Coffee Mud Wrap (45 minutes, $99) is for clients who do not have deep dimple cellulite, but rather more of a rip-pling effect. “There are varying degrees of cellu-lite, which is why we offer such a variety of treat-ments. For this one, the caffeine in the mud acts as a diuretic to release trapped fluids and impuri-ties that cause the cellulite. We put the mud on,

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The Clinic’s Anti-Cellulite Coffee Mud Wrap (45

minutes, $99) is for clients who do not have deep

dimple cellulite, but rather more of a rippling effect.

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“They all stimulate your lymphatic system to help you flush toxins from under the skin, and that helps to smooth out the appearance of the skin.”

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Increase the effectiveness of your spa treatments for clients with these home care program recommendations...


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wrap them in plastic cellophane and put them in an infrared wrap. You see a difference after one treatment,” says Flesher, who says it is very popular with celebrities.

Additionally, Flesher offers at-home treat-ments, a.k.a. The Celebrity Treatment, for a $100 travel fee on top of the regular cost of the treat-ment, for clients who want more privacy or have hectic schedules. Another popular offering from The Cellulite Clinic are their retail products—The Java Junkie 3-in-1 Cellulite Treatment System, which includes the “mud” that she uses in the mud wrap for $22 and the Super Skinni Body Wrap Kit, which includes everything one needs to do four wraps at home, for $100.

HYDROTHERAPYWater therapy is yet another route to go. Love Thyself Day Spa in Dallas, TX offers a variety of therapeutic baths for $65 that help with cellulite reduction. “We offer seaweed baths, a detoxify-ing clay bath and a signature essential oil bath which contains a proprietary blend of quality oils, essential oils and Dead Sea salt. The seaweed is fresh, and for the detox clay bath we have them drink the clay as well,” says Lisa Weeks, owner of Love Thyself Day Spa.

All of their baths start with dry skin brush-ing—also a popular at-home treatment for cellu-lite sufferers—to assist with lymphatic drainage, light exfoliation and increased blood flow. “We include a cool water or cool water/essential oil spritzer bottle as an option for the client to spray the face and body, thereby alternating the tem-peratures for increased blood flow, stimulation of nerve endings for cool down and refreshed vigor,” adds Weeks.

PRESSOTHERAPYPressotherapy is another non-surgical lymphatic drainage method that is especially beneficial to clients who are obese and have cellulite in the legs due to poor circulation. In this process, a com-pression system is used to increase the venous and lymphatic flow and enhance extra-cellular fluid clearance. How does it work? A computer-controlled pump inflates the individual sections of the multi-chambered garments, which are positioned around the limbs. SkinWorks Beauty Clinic in New Zealand prices their pressotherapy treatment for legs, abdomen and arms at $50 for 30 minutes, while White Rose Spa in Irvine, CA offers it at $90 for a 40-minute session or $450 for a package of six treatments. n

Water therapy is yet another route

to go. Love Thyself Day Spa in Dallas, TX offers a variety

of therapeutic baths for $65 that help with cellulite

reduction.


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RETAIL IS A BIG PART OF ANY SPA’S BOTTOM line, so being completely informed on the prod-ucts that you stock in your retail section and recommend to your clients could be the differ-ence between making and losing that sale. With this season’s damaging rays upon us, selling the right sunscreen to your clients can really boost your summer numbers.

Knowing what to look for in the products you order for your retail section and how to answer your clients’ frequently asked questions about sunscreen is the first step to upping those sum-mertime retail sales. This starts with debunking a few sunscreen myths.

MYTH NO. 1: All-natural or organic sunscreens are not as strong or long lasting as the mass-mar-ket chemical-based products. “Not true,” says Steve Finley, general manager of Rubber Ducky Sunscreen. “This is a big misnomer. In fact, the inherent ingredients in an all-natural sunscreen typically will last longer in water than the chemi-cal ingredients in other sunscreens.”

MYTH NO. 2: If SPF 100 provides the best sun protection, why carry anything else? Tyler Porteous, vice president of marketing and busi-ness development at COOLA Suncare, breaks it down: “SPF 15 protects you 93 percent against

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BY CARRIE-ANN BUCKINGHAM

SETTING THE RECORD STRAIGHT ABOUT

SUNSCREEN“The FDA has

proposed regulation that SPF 50 is

the highest any company is allowed

to claim.”


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COOLA SUNCARE PIÑA COLADA SPORT

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Moisturizer SPF 30 eminenceorganics.com BIO-THERAPEUTIC SHADE bio-therapeutic.com HYDROPEPTIDE Solar Defense:

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Face & Body SPF30 sothys-usa.com B. KAMINS Sun Defense SPF 30 bkamins.com

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Educate your clients on how to stay safe in the sun and boost your retail income with this sensational selection of sunscreen products!

UVB rays. SPF 30 is 97 percent, SPF 50 is 98 per-cent and SPF 100 is roughly 99 percent.” Adds Finley, “But for a little less than a one percent advantage, you’re exposing yourself to two to three times the chemicals. And now, the FDA has proposed regulation that SPF 50 is the highest any company is allowed to claim.” (Note: The rule is in effect for any products shipped after December 17, 2013.)

MYTH NO. 3: You must apply sunscreen 15 minutes before sun exposure and re-apply every

two hours. Well, this is sort of true. “The FDA mandates that wording, but there are sunscreens that last eight hours, but to play it safe, they advise we say every two hours,” says Finley. Of the 15 minutes prior rule, Porteous, says, “That is true really for chemical active sunscreens. But mineral or physical actives actually start work-ing as soon as you put it on, but the FDA still requires we put 15 minutes on the products.”

MYTH NO. 4: Waterproof sunblock is better than water-resistant sunscreen. Trick statement. The FDA has actually banned the words “water-proof” and “sunblock.” Instead, water-resistant (with two levels of 40 minutes or 80 minutes) is the new industry standard.

MYTH NO. 5: One sunscreen does it all. This is also not true. There are sunscreens specifically formatted for sensitive skin, for athletes (i.e., sport sunscreen), as well as for your face, lips and body. “You want a facial sunscreen that feels elegant and is light on the skin that you can wear every day, even as a primer,” says Harry Fallick, founder of TiZO Fallene. “A heavier sunscreen is great for the body, and the new foam sunscreens cover very well. We even have sunscreens specifically for the lip, ear and nose because the skin in thin-nest there.” n p

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SUN-KISSED FACES

BY LOUISA R. HORVATH

JUST ABOUT EVERYBODY KNOWS THE value of using a good sunscreen year round (see related article, page 79), but even the most diligent spa-goers can have an off moment and end up burned by the sun’s damaging rays. While most treatment menus already include facials that can soothe skin, adding a specialty facial to your menu specifically for sunburned skin can be a big boost to your summer numbers!

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The Lounge Spa in Culver City, CA offers a Sea Breeze Facial (50 minutes, $100), which is popular for those in need of sooth-ing their sunburned skin. “It’s an anti-inflammatory mask and cooling facial with a two-part mask that becomes a contour mask to soothe and hydrate the most delicate, sunburned skin. It is all about the right ingredients. Green tea extract soothes and comforts dry, irritated skin. Algae extract nourishes skin and locks in hydration, and the mint balm cools and reduces stinging and sensitivity,” says Alice Kodkas, owner of The Lounge Spa.

Beach Ready Spa in Seaside, FL offers a Cooling Shell Facial (50 minutes, $115) for their overexposed clients. “It’s super sooth-ing and calming. We don’t exfoliate or do extractions, because that could irritate the skin more; it’s just about good nutrients like vitamin C. We use tiger clamshells that we fill with a special sub-stance that activates when you stick it in the freezer, so it’s cold. We do the facial massage with the cold shells. It feels amazing, especially on skin that’s had a little too much sun,” says Lindsay Eberhart, lead esthetician at Beach Ready Spa.

The Spa at Oak Haven in Sevierville, TN featured the Summer Breeze Facial (60 minutes, $95) on their Summer Spa Specials seasonal menu last year, which was popular with their sun-loving clients. The facial combined a cucumber and parsley mask to hydrate and cool the skin with a creamy yo-gurt mask to nourish and soothe the over-exposed skin, as well as a refreshing tea eye treatment.

“This is super-easy on the skin. You can walk in straight from the pool with a pink face and get this treatment done. But there are times when it’s right to turn someone away who is too red or sensitive to the touch. We might recommend they see a derma-

tologist and ask them to come back once the skin has healed a bit,” says Emily McBrayer, spa director at the Spa at Oak Haven.

Sunburn does not just happen on the face, of course, so the Spa at Oak Haven converts its Ultra Hydrating Full Body Mask (30 minutes, $50) into a treatment suitable for an over-exposed body. “If they come in for a massage and we see they are sunburned, we’ll recommend this body treatment instead,” McBrayer explains. “This is on our regular menu, and in the winter we’ll wrap them up and add heat. But we convert it in the summer by not using the heat and just plac-ing the blanket over them with the mask on.”

Converting existing treatments into summer treatments for overly sunned skin is one way to attract the client in need. Simply changing the name, or coming up with a seasonal facial with the words “sun,” “sun-kissed,” “sunburn, “after sun,” or “sun relief” in the title is another way. By doing this, you also increase your chances of a new client stumbling upon your spa if they do a Google search for “facials for sunburn.”

Here are a few good examples of well-titled treatments that rank high in a search: Aquae Sulis Spa in Las Vegas, NV offers the Sun-Kissed Body Treatment (80 minutes, $170); Anantara Spa at the Kempinski Hotel Ishtar in Swaimeh, Jordan, fea-tures the Sun Soother (60 minutes, $78); The Spa at Little Dix Bay in the British Virgin Islands features the Sun Relief Facial (50 minutes, $100); and Bali Essence Day Spa in Canberra, Australia, features the After Sun Soothing Ritual (one hour, $70).

“When it comes to marketing your summer treatments, sometimes it’s just about the right title or taking an existing treatment and changing it up a bit,” adds McBrayer. n

“Algae extract nourishes skin and

locks in hydration, and the mint balm cools and reduces stinging

and sensitivity.”

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cept. Make sure your concept is clear-ly defined and on trend, but not a fad. Ask the questions: Will my concept resonate with my target market? Will it differentiate my spa from my competi-tors? Can I easily translate my ideas on an emotional, visual and physical level? Emotional: How does it make me feel, and how will it make my consumers feel?Visual: What colors, styles and design will translate my vision, philosophy and values?Physical: What underlying theme will I use to develop my protocols and product choices?

Tip 3: Choose product lines to reinforce your concept Research companies that appeal to you, and be sure they fit into the criteria you have established for your concept. Request information and samples, and have your team of decision makers con-duct a review. Note how the products and information are packed and pre-sented. This will tell you a lot about the company’s attention to detail and how they operate. Invite the companies you like to visit your spa and present their brand. Pay attention to all aspects of the meeting prior to and following their presentation. Ask yourself the follow-ing: Do you like their products? Was the company prompt and enthusiastic? What kind of support can they offer?

THE SPA MENU IS THE DEFINING feature of your spa, and it is also its most influential marketing tool. It does not end there—the menu is connected to every other aspect of a profitable spa opera-tion. The menu influences purchasing and budgeting, and serves as the primary tool to help you determine which bulk and specialty products you need to have on hand, and the probable cost of goods. It is also a main factor that will guide your choice of equipment, supplies and product selection. Most importantly, the menu defines who you are as a company by strengthening your brand concept.

Tip 1: Market analysis and due diligence are key Prior to establishing your menu’s con-tent, the first step in menu development is to keep the end consumer in mind. A thorough market analysis should en-compass an in-depth understanding of your target guest. This includes factors such as gender, age, income, family sta-tus and education, as well as their val-ues and interests. This research will guide you in determining the right program-ming for your spa and identify potential opportunities in the marketplace. In con-junction, you should have a thorough un-derstanding of your competition. What is their brand concept, and what types of products and treatments do they of-fer? Identify their strengths and weak-nesses, where your competition excels, and where they struggle. Can you do it better? Consider their weaknesses an opportunity to outperform.

Tip 2: Develop a brand concept driven menuOnce you understand your market, the next step is to develop your brand con-

When you select a company to work with, it should be the beginning of a long-term relationship.

Tip 4: Develop your menu of servicesDecide on the mix of corporate treat-ments (treatments developed by the manufacturer), signature treatments (treatments developed by the spa) and traditional treatments (treatments that are time-honored and recognized by the consumer). Also consider time durations, pricing and the staff needed to execute the services you choose. Once you have developed the list of services, design “touch points” that will inspire the senses and make the services unique. For example:Touch: Protocol choreography, tempo and rhythmTaste: Tea ritual, infused pure watersScent: Inhalation therapy, aromacol-ogy, signature scentsSight: Room design and set-up, staff attireSound: Signature music

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5 tips to develop an effective spa menubusiness

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Decide on the mix of corporate treatments,

signature treatments and traditional treatments.


Tip 5: Designing and writing your menuMenu design is an extension of your concept. Choose a design theme with visuals to tell your brand story. Marry this theme with colors and fonts that will complement your overall de-sign. When writing the content of the menu, keep the menu space clean, and avoid overcrowding with lengthy descrip-tions. Arrange services strategically, listing the most profitable at the forefront. A well designed, well written menu guides the end consumer toward a positive anticipation of an unfor-gettable service. n

Melanie Edwards has a dynamic and diverse career of more than 30 years exclusively in the luxury spa and pro-fessional skin care markets. Inspired by her international travels, Edwards opened Essentiels Beauty Clinic in 1991 in Boulder, CO and expanded its operations in 1997. Edwards has held senior executive positions with major skin care manufacturers. She currently serves as gen-eral manager for SpaCare Group, a division of SpaEquip, Inc.

business|5 tips to develop an effective spa menu


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business

RAISING THE STANDARDPROVIDING QUALITY CUSTOMER CARE

BY TIM RICHARDSON

IMAGINE THAT YOU RECEIVE A PHONE call from the Travel Channel and they tell you they want to showcase your establishment in an upcoming feature program about spas that provide exemplary customer service. They will be sending a film crew to your spa to interview your staff and highlight the aspects of your of-ferings that provide guests with an exceptional experience. How are you going to prepare?

The most important action you can take is to make sure your employees are on their “A” game in every way. This is essential to create a relaxing environment.

You would want the cameras to capture your spa at its best in every way, so that any viewer would easily see the appeal of being a guest at the spa.

While you may never get that call from the Travel Channel, there is certainly the possibility that—for better or worse—you may find your spa featured in a video that could be viewed by hundreds or even thousands of potential guests. Guests today have more tools than ever before to communicate their impressions about your spa and your staff. Make sure the impression they capture, whether mentally or on an actual camera, is one that is beneficial—not detrimen-tal—to your business. 4

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Keys to quality customer service

1 HIRE SLOW, FIRE FAST. All businesses that lead the way in customer service live by this rule. You must always have a great

team in place, with individuals who can create the positive impressions that make customers want to rave about your spa and continue to do business with you over and over again. Positive people create positive experiences, which is par-ticularly important in the spa industry. If you have one person on your staff that does not project this type of attitude, they must go. All it takes is one negative encounter to lose a customer, and this may cause them to write something un-flattering about their experience with you—or worse, film it! Conversely, a positive encounter can make a guest your biggest advocate.

“I believe it is important to talk about com-pany culture and hiring individuals who have the same values,” says David Brenner, spa director at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne in Miami, FL. “It is also important to know your company’s values and how to recognize those same values when hiring. Everything from recruiting practices to the questions asked in the interview process will determine who is a right fit for the company and team. Ask direct questions, to which candidates can articulate specific examples of actions and results. For example, describe your favorite cus-tomer service moment and what you did to make it special for the guest.”

2 PROVIDE SOLID TRAINING. Proper training on a continuous basis is essential to a strong team. And there must always

be a specific training protocol for new employees, even if it is brief. This initial training period for staff must address how to be truly service

focused. Make sure that your new hires can answer simple questions about your company and the surrounding area with courtesy and kindness. The words you use can make a lasting impression.

A philosophy of staff training at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne is that the way something is said is just as important as the words that are actu-ally used. The company has created cheat sheets on how saying the same thing in different ways can create dialogue and better communication. This is especially important when it comes to communicating with clients who speak different languages.

3 DEVELOP STANDARDS OF SERVICE—AND EXCEED THEM. People tend to rise to the level of expectations that are set for them. Work with your team to create a list of standards. Make sure that

“Ask direct questions, to which candidates can

articulate specific examples of actions and results. For

example, describe your favorite customer service

moment and what you did to make it special for the guest.”

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Tim Richardson has been speaking pro-fessionally full time since 1988, primarily in the hospitality, health care and fitness industries. He is the author of numerous books and published articles, and has been interviewed by many magazines, journals and business publications. He is also the founder and president of The Bill Walter Melanoma Research Fund.

Richardson loves his work and also enjoys riding his mountain bike, water skiing, snowboarding and exploring the Great Smoky Mountains with his wife and six children.

they have clear guidelines for providing exceptional service, and that they know how to handle any difficult situations that might arise.

In the hospitality industry, leading customer service organiza-tions have a daily line-up. This routine is an opportunity for em-ployees to be trained in meetings that last three to five minutes.

Apply a similar concept at your company to provide in-formation and updates, and constantly review service stan-dards and customer service principles. Many organizations in the hospitality industry use some version of the line-up. At the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne, line-ups are an opportunity for team members to share stories of how their exceptional services have enriched the guest experience to reinforce why standards are important and that they work. Brenner says that when co-workers share their own experiences and ideas with one another, it can often foster better solutions. This helps engage them in the process and cement the principles in their own actions. Teaching a skill to someone else is a great way for an employee to strengthen that very skill in themselves.

4MAKE GUESTS SAY WOW! Figure out what your spa can do to create an experience to “wow” your guests. Think about how doing something unique within your

spa can captivate and impress your guests, and make them share that impression with others. Your staff must make it a point to know your clients’ preferences to build relationships and customize their experiences with you. “If a therapist re-members that the client’s favorite scent is lavender and that they are allergic to nuts, it will wow their guest and raise the bar for everyone,” says Brenner. He also emphasizes that the importance of a name—both the guest’s name and the staff member’s name—is paramount. Using the guest’s name helps to build trust, and by making your own name known to them, they know who to ask for when they schedule the next visit. As Dale Carnegie—a pioneer in public speaking, self-improvement and interpersonal skills—said, “A person’s name is to that per-son, the sweetest, most important sound in any language.”

Arguably, the ideas presented in this article are simple. However, the reality is that it does not take much effort to distin-guish your company and make it worthy of a visit from The Travel Channel (or someone who will put it on their own channel). n

business|raising the standard


“If a therapist remembers that the client’s favorite scent is lavender

and that they are allergic to nuts, it will wow their guest and raise the bar for everyone,” says Brenner.


REMEMBER HOW HAPPY YOU WERE WHEN you first decided to go into business for yourself and act upon your entrepreneurial spirit? You had big dreams and a vivid vision of how your spa was going to be, delivering great guest experi-ences while operating a successful and profitable business. Are you living your dream? Or is the pressure of running and sustaining your business clouding your dream? Whatever ambition drove you to open or operate a spa, an important fac-

tor for your business is profitability. Is your spa as profitable as it can be?

THERE ARE THREE SIGNIFICANT CHALLENGES FACING DAY SPA OWNERS AND OPERATORS: 1. Marketing and capacity2. High compensation rates3. Low profit margins

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COMPENSATION AND PROFITSMAKE IT

A WIN-WIN

The fact is that most spas operate at about 35 percent of their true capacity. This is usually due to the lack of a marketing plan. Inadequate marketing leads to a low number of clients, which leads to having to pay high commission rates to compensate for the lack of clients. It is a vicious cycle that spa owners go through.

For more than a decade, most spa com-pensation plans have paid between 40 and 65 percent commission on services. This structure has many pitfalls and should be replaced with a motivational compensation plan based on tar-gets and performance.

As a spa owner, your goals are to be profit-able and to have high team retention. In order to reach that goal, you must implement perfor-mance based compensation.

Compensation should be based on how much each therapist generates from each client. The more revenue the team member generates per guest, the more income they should be able to earn. The less they generate, the less they will earn. No one should earn a flat commission rate. The flat rate compensation model is outdated and does not work.

The following key principles are important to keep in mind when developing your com-pensation model.

1. INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR VERSUS EMPLOYEE STATUSThe spa operator’s point of view: Over the past several years, the independent contrac-tor status has been the most popular within day spas. A shift to employee status is now developing. Laws and guidelines for indepen-dent contractor status have changed, making it difficult to manage independent contractors. Employee status provides the ability to man-age and lead the spa team.

Therapist’s point of view: Employee status provides therapists with a sense of belonging. It indicates that a spa owner is se-rious about their business and cares about their team. It provides various advantages, including tax benefits.

2. SALARY PARACHUTE A salary parachute is compensation the opera-tor pays only when a certain amount of income is not reached during a pay period. For example, an operator will commit to paying the therapist the minimum wage per hour only when the com-mission is not greater than the hourly rate. It is an income parachute for the therapist. The goal is to

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operating expenses45%

payroll40%

profit15%

About 45 percent of your spa’s gross revenue should represent operating expenses, 40 percent in payroll, leaving roughly a 15 percent profit. To illustrate the 40 percent payroll cost, the

pie chart indicates compensation mix rates. If you want a healthy and sustainable business, you must strive toward these ratios.


have them make a lot more than the minimum wage. The para-chute is a great tool to help you recruit a team, especially when you have a new spa and/or if your facility is not very busy yet.

3. EMPLOYEE BENEFITSTo encourage team retention, you may want to offer ben-efits. This may include medical insurance, a 401K plan, profit sharing, paid vacation time, education, etc. The benefit program rate will vary depending on the percentage you designate for benefits.

4. COMPENSATION REFLECTION IN OVERALL BUDGET Prior to developing your compensation plan, it is essential to determine your budget ratios. Include all the compensation mix components you offer. Adjust the commission scale to meet your desired ratios. The overall budget ratios chart below is a sample ratio model.

About 45 percent of your spa’s gross revenue should represent operating expenses, 40 percent in payroll, leav-ing roughly a 15 percent profit. To illustrate the 40 percent payroll cost, the pie chart indicates compensation mix rates.

If you want a healthy and a sustainable business, you must strive toward these ratios.The following case studies describe how spa owners made the switch to a performance based compensation model.Cheri Satterfield owns the Tuscan Sun Spa & Salon in West Virginia, with two locations. She is very successful and has more than 100 employees. Satterfield is an entrepreneur who has owned many businesses. When she first opened her spas, she adopted the model that everyone offers, even though she knew that it was not the best possible model.

While Satterfield was in fact generating a lot of revenue, she was not as profitable as she wanted to be. Two years ago, Satterfield changed her compensation model to a performance based model and completely transformed the team’s perfor-mance and her profit line! Keep in mind that it is not just about revenue generation, it is about how much profit you generate.

“My team now is motivated, they strive to reach their goals,” Satterfield said. “They know that the more revenue they generate, the more they can earn. They are more pas-sionate and are rewarded for their efforts accordingly.”

Yasmin and Gerry Farrel moved from the United Kingdom and bought Bloom Organics, a spa in Sarasota, FL that was not doing well. The team was being paid a flat commission rate of 55 percent. As soon as they took over and looked at the financials, they realized they would not be in business very long if they kept the flat commission rate model. They knew they needed to do something different, because if they did not make the change, they would go out of business. They converted their model to the volume per guest compensation model. The Farrels now have a healthy business, and for the past three years, they have grown more than 35 percent each year!

“We are so happy we made the change,” said Yasmin. “We are now looking into other benefits we can offer our team to improve retention and culture.”Switching to a performance based compensation model has many benefits:• Providestargetsandgoalsto

focus on and strive toward• Encouragesupgradeopportunities,

resulting in increased volume per guest • Increasesretailsales• Promotesperformance,stretching

to reach the highest target• Rewardsexceptionalperformance• Reducespayrollcosts• Providesaperformancemeasurementtooltospa

leadership and the team• Fostersamotivatedspaenvironment• Isagreatmanagementandrecruitingtool

Everyone wants to earn a great income, but it only works when it is a win-win for everyone. Currently, many spa owners are barely breaking even, due to the compensation model they utilize. It is wise to implement performance based com-pensation to revitalize your business, create a motivated spa team and ensure profitable growth.Compensation pitfalls to avoid:• Anon-performancebasedcompensation

plan paying all therapists an equal flat rate• Hiringindependentcontractorsandexpecting

them to behave like employees• Notaccountingforgratuityandotherbenefits

as part of the compensation package• Acompensationplannotbasedontargets• Beingunawareofyouroverallcompensationplanpay

out and related costsIt is essential to offer a compensation plan that attracts

and retains professional individuals. Currently, our industry is experiencing a human capital shortage. Retaining employees and investing in them is less costly than operating with a high employee turnover rate. Creating the right compensation plan will produce a motivated, professional spa team. It increases profitability while enhancing guest and employee satisfaction. n

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and pri-vate seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience expo-nential growth and profits. She can be reached at [email protected].

business|compensation and profits



SLIM AND SMARTBY DAVID SUZUKI

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MINIMAL MAGNITUDE

The demands and requirements for our culture today are clear: Agility, flexibility and practicality are essential.


THE EVOLUTION OF TECHNOLOGY IN OUR culture has been nothing short of amazing over the last three decades. As the consumer was ready to embrace the idea that smaller technology could be equally as good as large technology, the world of electronic components and technology man-ufacturers were more than ready to accommo-date the shift. Seemingly overnight, the world became obsessed with small. Technological items such as the mobile phone went from the size of a brick to the size of a deck of cards. Manufacturers and retailers could not have been more excited. Technology suddenly took a fraction of the ware-house space to house, shipping and delivery ex-penses dropped to a bare minimum, and small became so fashionable that it drove the pricing and profits through the roof.

Slim and smartForward thinking companies such as Apple un-derstand the delicate balance of intelligence, convenience and fashion that our culture requires when it comes to technology. When viewing their offerings you will find that everything that they design and manufacture is slim and smart.

Skin care technologyThe evolution of skin care technology has followed the same pattern, in that we began big and bulky with equipment that seemed similar in size to that of a small refrigerator. With the inception of small, hand held professional skin care technol-ogy often referred to as “gear,” the entire culture of the industry has changed, in that we can now perform skin care in any environment, in or out of the treatment room.

Skin care technology is now entering a slim and smart phase, with hand held technology becoming better, more effective, lighter, smarter and slimmer. Ultrasonic/ultrasound skin exfoliation devices, which were once thought only to be ef-fective when using four or more ceramic crystals, are now being designed and developed using patented high intensity piezoelectric ceramic crys-tals. This new wave of technology has proven to be up to eight times more effective than historical technology. Because of this new breakthrough, the new generation of hand held ultrasonic skin exfoliation devices will be slimmer, smarter and significantly more effective.

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Slim LEDThe efficacy of LED technology depends on three primary factors: nanometer, which controls the depth of the light; frequency in hertz (hz), which influences the reaction and energy level; and strength of lights or milliwatts per centi-meter (mW/cm2), which is relative to how long the light will need to be applied to the skin to achieve the desired result.

One of the many challenges with hand held LED devices is having enough energy and fre-quency range to gain any sort of result. Even the higher energy levels of modern LED technology require seven to 10 minutes of exposure time to achieve a result. With hand held probe applica-tions, this would require hours to consistently cover the entire face, neck and décolleté, which is completely unpractical for both the professional and the consumer. Therefore, working with panel based LED technology is the only practical and efficacious type of light to consider.

The only way panel based LED equipment could become smaller and slimmer was to drop the cooling fans in the design of the panels. Although this did the trick and allowed for a slim line design, it remained challenging to maintain a safe temperature, which forced most manufacturers to use a lower level of LED light energy, which then required more exposure time to the skin to achieve a result.

Forward thinking manufacturers are now us-ing the latest patented advances in LED tech-nology that allow for the maximum amount of energy and rapid heat dissipation. Additional advances in LED technology include the use of multi-nanometer diodes, which essentially al-low multiple nanometers (colors) to be realized from a single source. In the past, if you wanted 640 nm (red) and 420 nm (blue), you would have needed two completely separate lights. With to-day’s technology, both diodes can now cohabi-

Advances inLED technology include the use of multi-nanometer diodes, which essentially allow multiple nanometers (colors) to be realized from a single source.

business


tate in what appears as a single diode. This means that the new slim line LED devices can have more of each light on the panel, further increasing the energy level while decreasing the required application time for each client. In short, they provide faster and more effective results.

Smart wet/dry microdermabrasionWhen wet/dry microdermabrasion first appeared on the mar-ket, it came complete with a roll around cart as well as a clutter of bottles and tubes. The original idea used fluid through the system, which required this complex highway of fluid valves, tubes and switches.

Forward thinking skin therapists quickly evolved from the original concept and began to apply their specific products topically, which allowed for many benefits: • Theabilitytofocusondifferentskinconditionsatone

time by applying a number of different products in each area of concern.

• Thespeedoftheserviceisgreatlyimproved,astopicalproduct application eliminated the need for the product to travel through the system. The entire process with the new wet/dry microdermabrasion devices can be carried out in four to seven minutes.

• Thecostoftheserviceisgreatlyreduced,fromanaverageof $15 per service to 50 cents per service. Not only were the fluids with original devices very expensive, but the entire system and tubes had to be filled with the product before it could reach the skin.

• Producteffectivenessisgreatlyimproved.Whensprayedon the surface of the skin, the active ingredients of the product are left to work for two to three minutes before being removed by the device. Products that run through a system are applied and removed simultaneously, elimi-nating that time to work effectively.

Because of the new forward thinking application protocols for wet/dry microdermabrasion, the device designs have evolved to very sleek tabletop models that usually weigh less than eight pounds.

The demands and requirements for our culture today are clear: Agility, flexibility and practicality are essential. We as skin therapists need the tools and technology to be able to meet and exceed these demands. Gone are the days of bulky and big; today we are all about smart and slim. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Thera peutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics in-dustry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regu-latory issues, including FDA submis-sion and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at [email protected] or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

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NEW APPOINTMENTGlobal professional beauty brand Sothys announced the appointment of Jessica Heron to the position of national trainer. Heron comes to Sothys with 18 years

of experience in the professional skin care industry. A licensed esthetician and aesthiology graduate, Heron received extensive training in her native Minneapolis, MN. As a national trainer for Sothys, Heron is responsible for offering comprehensive training for the U.S., Latin America and the Caribbean. sothys-usa.com305.594.4222

CELEBRATORY DISPLAY New product packaging and a new logo treatment have been proudly unveiled by jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®. Characterized by

a fresh layout, inviting colors and textures, integrated QR code technology and environmentally responsible materials, the packaging symbolizes the brand’s bright future and complements the celebration of its 20th anniversary. “We’ve designed our new packaging to be clear, distinct, consistent and engaging,” said Sarah Steven, vice president of marketing for jane iredale. “Our new packaging conveys our brand story with customers through colors that represent the vibrancy and purity of nature, and special touches that emphasize the value and quality of our products.” The Leaping Bunny logo, the leading animal protection group for cruelty-free certification, appears on every carton. janeiredale.com 800.762.1132

FAMILY FRIENDLY TREATSFarmHouse Fresh® launched last month teen and kid friendly spa treatments at Beaches Resorts in the Caribbean destinations of Negril, Ocho Rios, and Turks and Caicos Islands. The teen and kid friendly spa services include manicures and pedicures, body treatments and massages for the entire family featur-ing the company’s products. “Spas now have a golden opportunity to bring families together,” said Shan-non McLinden, CEO of FarmHouse Fresh®. The products incorporated into these services include: Clem-entine Sparkling Soak, Hello! Yellow Shea Butter Cream, Coconut Beach Shea Sugar Scrub and many more.farmhousefreshgoods.com 888.773.9626

SUN CARE WISDOMMichael J. Russ of Oceana Naturals, the natural skin care line, released Sun Care Decoded: Answers to Questions You Didn’t Know to Ask, an ebook that puts the topic of sun care into perspective, in a clear and concise way that everyone can understand, says the company. The ebook written in a Q&A format reveals facts that are rarely discussed, including risks associated with traditional sunscreen, the effects of sunscreen on vitamin D production and the secret role of natural antioxidants during sun exposure.puresunscreen.com850.890.1225

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

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NEW

SMORE NEWS


NATURAL GOODNESS RENAMEDFormerly known as Sequoia Beauty, the Califor-nia-based company is now Laurel Whole Plant Organics. Not only did the brand get a new name, but also a packaging makeover and the addition of new formulas to its existing product line. “We’ve made seven of our existing formu-las even greener by eliminating all preservatives and emulsifiers from our creams and making them balms,” says Laurel Shaffer, founder and herbalist. “We are pushing the limits even further of how pure green beauty can be.” Sourcing their ingredients mostly from artisan U.S. farms, all Laurel products are water, alcohol and filler free. laurelskin.com 415.717.1689

CANCER PREVENTIONPRIVILEGEOsmosis Pür Medical Skincare secured an official patent for their Catalyst DNA repair serums—Catalyst, Catalyst Plus and Catalyst AC-11—as “Systems and methods for preventing cancer and treating skin lesions.” The Catalyst serums offer an acceleration in skin rejuvenation and repair, using patented formulations with leading scientific findings that positively impact the recovery of damaged DNA, says the company. These formulations can build collagen and elastin in the skin, while improving scarring, skin tags, actinic keratosis and other skin disturbances that relate to DNA damage. The end result is overall even, radiant skin.osmosisskincare.com877.777.2305

10-YEAR ANNIVERSARYBio-Therapeutic celebrated a decade of worldwide recognition. Bio-Therapeutic’s quality system was reviewed and deemed excellent, meeting the highest quality standards recognized worldwide for medical and skin care devices, including skin care product manufacturers ISO 9001 and ISO 13485, says the company. This marks 10 years of perfect quality by Bio-Therapeutic, which gained their ISO certifications in 2004.bio-therapeutic.com 800.976.2544

GREAT HONORBellus Academy is now a recipient of Massage Envy’s Spa Excellence in Education Award 2013. The beauty academy was recognized at Massage Envy’s Annual Franchise Conference in Scottsdale, AZ on April 27. The award distinguishes the best massage and esthetic education schools for their

accomplishments in producing quality industry professionals. “Massage Envy is proud to name Bellus Academy as one of our Excellence in Educa-tion Award winners for 2013,” says CG Funk, vice president of opera-tions at Massage Envy. “Bellus was selected for outstanding educational programs, the level of support they offer their students and graduates, and their leadership and involvement in growing and supporting the industry at large.” bellusacademy.edu 800.396.9187

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When applied topically either through a cleanser, serum or moisturizer, lyco-pene promotes the growth and repair of skin cells, which in turn creates fresher, healthier looking skin tone and texture. In addition, lycopene also possesses anti-inflammatory properties and enhances

WE ALL KNOW THAT EATING brightly colored fruits and vegetables is imperative for optimal health due to their high levels of antioxidants, but should we also be applying them to our skin? Achieving healthy, glowing skin is directly correlated with nature. High performance and natural can go hand in hand when it comes to skin care. Many natural ingredients used today are derived from fruits and vegetables due to their vitamin content. With the cur-rent natural/organic product movement shifting away from synthetic ingredi-ents, we can look to nature to provide

us with ingredients that are natural and effective. One of the most efficient nu-tritional properties being used in skin care today is lycopene.

Lycopene is a carotenoid that gives fruits and vegetables their red color or pigment. Lycopene is found in pink grapefruit, goji, red and yellow pep-pers, watermelon, apricots, guavas and tomatoes, just to name a few. Guava has the highest amount of lycopene, with watermelon second and tomatoes third.

Because lycopene is most effective in high fat content tissues, it is extreme-ly beneficial when applied topically to the skin. It fights free radical damage, which is responsible for breaking down skin and collagen, thus causing loose, sagging and wrinkled skin.

connectivity and communication be-tween cells, which improves skin’s tex-ture, making it appear smoother and brighter. Lycopene protects cellular DNA, therefore protecting the body from hav-ing to activate its own repair pathways.

by Gary Goldfaden, M.D.

lycopeneorganic & wellness

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Foods rich in lycopene block UVA rays and have been linked to

sun protection.

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Lycopene—and foods rich in lycopene—block UVA rays and have been linked to sun protection. While free radical scavengers like lycopene protect the skin from overexpo-sure to damaging UV light, it is only equivalent to an SPF of about three. One of the most important ways—if not the most important way—to care for skin is through proper sun protection. UVA/UVB rays will harm and age skin quicker and more profoundly than any other environmental factor. Sun damage causes skin to look discolored, uneven, dry and wrinkled. Proper SPF must still be worn to protect skin, no matter how much lycopene is being ingested or applied.

Although lycopene is most effective when applied to the skin, advise your clients that it should not be overlooked within a healthy diet. Diets high in lycopene can be benefi-cial in preventing heart disease as well as lung, prostate and stomach cancer. Because lycopene and the foods it is found in are antioxidant rich, they are beneficial to overall health both inside and outside the body. Point out that if they choose to-matoes as a food source of lycopene, cooked tomato prod-ucts are more effective than raw tomatoes. Raw tomatoes have lycopene bound into indigestible fiber, while cooked tomato products are easier to absorb and digest. However, even eating mass amounts of lycopene is not very benefi-cial for the skin. By the time the lycopene gets digested and passed through the lymphatic system, it is mostly deposited into the fat rich organs—the colon, liver and adrenal glands. An extremely tiny amount actually reaches the skin. But ly-copene is still a very important part of a balanced healthy diet, so recommend that your clients indulge in guava and watermelon this summer, and remind them that a tomato a day can keep the doctor away! n

Gary Goldfaden, M.D. is a practicing dermatologist, lifetime member of The American Academy of Dermatology and creator of GOLDFADEN MD products. As a member of The Life Extension Foundation Medical Advisory board, Dr. Goldfaden has published hundreds of articles on in-novative ingredients, fueled by his experience creating the eponymous skin care line.

organic & wellness|lycopene


Although lycopene is most effective when applied to the skin, advise your clients that it should not be overlooked within a healthy diet.

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DETOXIFYING TREATMENTS

DETOXIFYING TREATMENTS ARE an invaluable offering for any spa. For those guests who are rundown, over-worked or plagued by the damages caused by convenience-based lifestyle choices, these treatments can make a true difference. By pairing these services with a nutrient rich juice that complements the purpose of the treatment, results are amplified, and the goal of healthy purification can be reached more easily.

AbhyangaAbhyanga is a long-held Ayurvedic tra-dition that can be performed either at home or as a spa service. An Abhyanga treatment is an especially beautiful way to begin the day, but it can be done at any time. Not only does this rhythmic, full body massage technique help the body to release toxins and impurities, but one of the main benefits of this prac-tice is a sense of peace and relaxation.

In keeping with Ayurvedic traditions, a juice to accompany this treatment

might be tailored to each client based on their dosha (unique makeup based on Ayurvedic principles). After determining their dosha, offer the juice that supports balance for their particular disposition.

You can create the following juices by simply putting the listed ingredients in a juicer.

VIBRANT VATA JUICE The warming ingredients in this juice will help balance Vata. 3-4 branches of rainbow swiss chard

1-2 Lebanese cucumbers (without seeds)wedge of Lemon with peeL

½ piece of ginger

1-2 appLes or pears

pinch of cinnamon

POWER PITTA JUICE Anti-inflammatory and calming ingredi-ents make this a perfect juice for Pitta.3-5 branches of kaLe, swiss chard or coLLards

½ engLish cucumber or 2 Lebanese cucumbers

1-2 ceLery staLks

fresh mint Leaves to taste

wedge of Lemon with peeL

1 appLe or pear or ½ beet

1 tabLespoon aLoe vera geL (optionaL)

CLEARING KAPHA JUICEThis Kapha-focused juice helps to speed up digestion and minimizes cravings.3-4 branches of kaLe

2-3 branches of swiss chard

1-2 ceLery staLks

½ piece of ginger

½ appLe pinch of cayenne

Lymphatic drainageThe body’s lymphatic system is crucial for detoxification and radiant health. Lymph nodes help to filter the waste that accumulates in the fluids through-out the body. By stimulating lymphatic drainage, stagnant waste can be filtered

WITH JUICE ENHANCEMENTS

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BY ERIN FERRILL

out, and the body is able to function optimally. The lymph system is unlike any other, in that it has no built-in pro-pulsion system. Our blood is moved through our veins by the beat of our heart, but the lymph system can only be stimulated by deep breathing, vigorous activity or manual lymphatic drainage performed externally.

Manual lymphatic drainage should only be performed by a trained, licensed therapist, because improper techniques can result in the opposite effect, retaining waste or driving it back into the system. To perform manual lymphatic drainage, therapists use two fingers with extremely gentle, alternating pressure to coax fluid through. By speeding up the natural sys-tem of the lymph nodes, stagnant waste is filtered out and detoxification occurs.

A fruit juice that includes cranberry, consumed on an empty stomach, pro-vides blood and lymph cleansing that pairs perfectly with a lymphatic mas-sage. The herbs and spices help to increase overall metabolism.

CLEANSING CRANBERRY FRUIT JUICE8 ounces unsweetened cranberry juice

8 ounces unsweetened pomegranate juice

7 cups water

½ cup fresh orange juice

fresh juice of haLf a Lemon

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

pinch ground cLoves

DIRECTIONS TO PREPARE 1. Bring cranberry juice, pomegran-

ate juice and water to a light boil; reduce the heat to low.

2. Place cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and ground cloves into a tea ball; add to the juice mixture. For a tangier juice, add the spices directly to the liquid.

3. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes; cool to room temperature.

4. Stir in the orange and lemon juices.

Infrared saunaThis specialized type of sauna treatment takes the natural healing power of heat to the next level. While traditional saunas are known for their relaxing and thera-peutic benefits, they can only heat the air, which in turn heats the body. However, far infrared radiation used in infrared saunas is an invisible light that emits energy and heat, which directly warms the body, in-cluding subcutaneous tissues. This heat stimulation “causes blood vessels and capillaries to dilate, improving blood cir-culation and helping the body to get rid of toxins and metabolic waste through sweating.”1 Infrared saunas are also ca-pable of imparting healing, detoxifying benefits at a lower temperature than tra-ditional saunas. Infrared saunas are usu-ally kept at 110-113 degrees Fahrenheit, while traditional saunas are around 130-190 degrees.2

Raising the internal temperature of the body helps to reduce acidity. Drinking an alkaline green juice can help com-pound these effects.

ALKALINE GREEN JUICE1 head of ceLery

1 cucumber

A fruit juice that includes cranberry,

consumed on an empty stomach, provides blood

and lymph cleansing that pairs perfectly with a lymphatic massage.


Spas that offerdetoxifying treatments

AbhyangaThe Chopra Center for Wellbeing at La Costa Resort and Spa in Carlsbad, CAThe Abhyanga is a friction-based choreo-graphed massage utilizing warm, dosha-spe-cific herbalized oils. As the oil is massaged into the skin through gentle to medium pres-sured strokes, it penetrates deep into the tissues to loosen toxins at the cellular level. The Abhyanga enhances immunity, increases circulation and creates deep relaxation in the body and mind.65 minutes, $310

Lymphatic Deep Detox WrapWaldorf Astoria in Park City, UTThe Waldorf Astoria Spa offers a customized wrap and lymphatic massage for ultimate de-toxification. After consulting with the client, a treatment is created to help with cellulite, water retention and bloating, weight loss or simply detoxification. Following a body brushing, a seaweed body wrap is applied to remineralize and release toxins from the skin. Finally, the client is treated to a full body lymphatic massage tailored to their needs.105 minutes, $295

Infrared SaunaShizuka Day Spa in New York, NYRegular infrared sauna sessions provide many benefits. Infrared therapy speeds up the me-tabolism and can aid in weight loss. This can also help blood to flow more freely into tense and injured muscles and joints. In addition, infrared allows the body to detoxify, releasing environmental toxins through sweat.30 minutes, $50 (or $20 as an add-on for any 50-minute treatment)

CuppingThe Phoenician in Scottsdale, AZThe use of massage cups is an ancient ther-apy. Using negative pressure (suction), mas-sage cupping releases tight muscles and fascia and increases lymph flow. Because it lifts tissues and pulls toxins to the surface, discoloration may appear on your client’s skin after the treatment. Monday-Thursday: 50 minutes, $140 Friday to Sunday: $150

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Cupping Cupping is an ancient technique used frequently in Chinese medicine. During this treatment, a small flame is used with-in a clear cup to create a displacement of air, which allows the cup to “suction” to the skin. The cup is then moved along the meridian lines of the body, the same ones used in acupuncture. The cup is then removed or left on for a period of time. The light suction of the cup cre-ates an inverse massage, as skin and muscle tissue are gently pulled upward into the cup and then released. Many clients will experience a bruise-like cup mark following the treatment that may last for several days or weeks. It is im-portant to note that although a flame is used in some treatments, it is never used near the skin, and the skin is not burned during this treatment.

The Pacific College of Oriental Medicine found the following:

By targeting the meridian chan-

nels, cupping strives to ‘open’ these

channels—the paths through which

life energy flows freely throughout

the body, through all tissues and

This simple mixture before or after a

cupping treatment will up the ante and aid

in detoxification.

organs, thus providing a smooth-

er and more free-flowing qi (life

force). Cupping is one of the best

deep-tissue therapies available. It is

thought to affect up to four inches

deep from the external skin. Toxins

can be released, blockages can be

cleared, and veins and arteries can

be refreshed…3

Pacific College of Oriental Medicine also touts the benefits of apple cider vinegar. This incredible liquid is a ma-jor detoxifier, in addition to countless other health enhancing benefits. This simple mixture before or after a cup-ping treatment will up the ante and aid in detoxification.

DETOXIFYING APPLE CIDER VINEGAR BOOSTMix two tablespoons apple cider vin-egar with eight ounces of water or juice. If mixing with water, a small amount of honey may be added for sweetness. n

References

1. Far infrared sauna. (2014). Retrieved

from http://shizukany.com/services/body/

far-infrared-sauna/

2. Ibid.

3. The many benefits of Chinese cupping.

(n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.pacific-

college.edu/acupuncture-massage-news/

articles/677-the-many-benefits-of-chi-

nese-cupping.html

Erin Ferrill is a licensed esthetician and the national training and development manager for HydroPeptide®. She pre-pares, coordinates and conducts on-site and web-based education. Ferrill is also honored to serve as a Look Good … Feel Better program volunteer for the American Cancer Society, helping cancer patients deal with the ap-pearance relat-ed side effects of treatment. She can be reached at [email protected].

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Mind, Body and ScentBY JIMM HARRISON

THE IMMEDIATE AND VIVID MEMORY plays itself like an old video in your mind at the first whiff of a subtle scent you soon recognize from the past. Each store in the mall, well be-fore you see its entrance, introduces itself with the fragrance “brand” that the consumer will

recognize. In every scent experience, there is an emotion and memory. This is the primitive olfactory system at work connecting mind, body and scent to protect us, feed us and provide an emotional connection to the ones we love as well as the ones we fear. 4

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The mysterious sense of smell Olfaction, at the forefront of all experience, mem-ory and emotion, is an elusive and complex sense mechanism that controls, manipulates and alerts us at every moment. Its function is survival of living organisms through attraction and aversion, guiding us to food and reproductive mates and protecting us from environmental dangers and predators.

The olfactory system also has a deep and powerful influence on mood, emotion and mem-ory. Every memory and emotion has a fragrance attachment. This is why the smell of baked goods can trigger a very intense memory, recreating the people and environment involved in the memory, and the relating emotion. The primitive and com-plex sense of olfaction continues to be unveiled for its purpose in human survival and behavior. The practice of aromatherapy—the healing use of essential oils—makes therapeutic use of the olfactory system’s mind-body connection.

Scent, from natural essences, has been used throughout history to produce alterations of mood and emotion. The art of perfumery has become a billion dollar industry based on the emotional impact of fragrances. A science has been devel-oped to study odor for commercial use, identifying the influential impact of fragrance on the positive buying habits of consumers. This has turned into a marketing practice known as fragrance branding.

The healing power of scentBeyond the commercial use of fragrance to impact sales, there is a developing science behind using scent to heal the body and mind. Fragrance, spe-cifically essential oils, has been used to relieve the aggravation associated with Alzheimer’s patients in elderly care and enhance focus and memory for students.

Much of the olfactory research and tested conditions have been conducted using synthetic fragrances. Though the effects are powerful, there are properties to compounds derived from nature that cannot be duplicated. Essential oils, abso-lutes and supercritical extracts contain secondary metabolites that humans have a unique relation-ship with through millions of years of evolution. Their molecular structure binds and reacts in an action and harmony that only nature can create.

The olfactory response to essential oils creates physical reactions in the body. Grapefruit, when inhaled, triggers the nervous system to burn fats for weight loss. Cedrol, a compound in cedarwood essential oil, and anethole, in anise seed and fennel oils, trigger autonomic response, raising parasym-pathetic “rest and digest” activity, useful in reduc-ing the negative “fight or flight” response—which is a direct cause of inflammation, acne, wrinkles, weight gain and many physical illnesses.

There is a plethora of information, scientific doc-umentation and empirical evidence that supports the many healing attributes from inhaling essential oils. There are calming, stimulating, anti-anxiety, anti-depressive and other emotionally balancing effects. Headaches, digestive issues, respiratory conditions, colds, flu and other parasitic infections are all treated through inhalation of essential oils.

Better skin and health with fragranceThe mind-body effects of essential oils have a dis-tinctive place in the health of the skin. Emotional conditions have a direct influence on the skin. Essential oils are one of few treatment products in the spa that will directly address emotions. The beauty of essential oils is in their holistic function and ability to influence physical changes and healing of the skin while simultaneously regulat-ing emotions, reducing negative emotions such as stress, anxiety and fight or flight that have di-rect influence on conditions that damage skin. Some oils useful for mind, body and skin health are: cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica), frankincense

organic & wellness|mind, body and scent

Some oils useful for mind, body and skin health are: cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica), frankincense

(Boswellia carterii), Helichrysum italicum, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and rose (Rosa damascena).

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(Boswellia carterii), Helichrysum italicum, lav-ender (Lavandula angustifolia) and rose (Rosa damascena). The oils, when used in topical skin and spa treatments, will by default be inhaled, providing the powerful emotional effects.

Essential oil inhalation may trigger balance in other systems of the body: cardiovascular, diges-tive, and endocrine. The balancing and healing of these systems will also indirectly impact and heal skin conditions that may be resulting from systemic disease.

Tools and methods for clinical healing with scent A collection of quality essential oils and/or an as-sortment of therapeutically focused blends are the starters for your scenting called “environmen-tal fragrancing.” Consider a complete selection of fragrance profiles, such as citrus, floral, wood, earthy and herbal.

The atmosphere is permeated with a healing scent using several options. A good aromatic dif-fuser—mist, nebulizer or heat—disperses the aroma into the air and is chosen to accommodate the de-sired space. These are best when time controlled in an on/off system that emits fragrance for several min-utes, then off for the same or double amount of time.

In the treatment room, the scent can be placed on tissue, stones or crystals near the guest’s head, on the floor under a massage table or anywhere in the room. There are many options available in fragrancing an area.

In determining which essential oils to buy, it is advisable to research this outside of brand market-ing. Essential oils are a complex subject. There is not a grading system such as “therapeutic grade” or GC/MS test to guide you.

Scent brandingThis is a powerful and effective form of marketing and guest retention. Having a unique fragrance or one created exclusively for your business will solidify an attachment to your brand. A simple way to accomplish this is to buy an essential oil blend from a company that has not already pen-etrated your market. Use this to fragrance your business, and when possible add it to unscented take home products. Even if a competing busi-ness begins selling or using the same fragrance, anyone already exposed to the memory of this fragrance will forever associate it with your busi-ness. More importantly, this fragrance added to

natural, unscented take home retail will constantly remind the guest of your spa, inspiring return visits.

Fragrance, especially in the healing form of essential oils, creates a strong emotional connec-tion to you and your business with the binding of mind, body and scent. n

Jimm Harrison is an au-thor, educator and con-sultant on essential oils and holistic health, with more than 25 years of experience in the beauty industry. He has devel-oped programs, work-shops and aromatherapy

certificate courses for esthetics, medi-spa and nutritional skin care. Harrison shares how to cre-ate the Essential Oil Natural Health and Medicine Kit at jimmharrison.com.

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Having a unique fragrance or one created exclusively for your business will solidify an attachment to your brand. A simple way to accomplish this is to buy an essential oil blend from a company that has not already penetrated your market.


WELLNESS IN THE SPA HAS BECOME A NECESSITY. With stress at epidemic levels and health care costs rising, people are in search of alternatives to restore their health and prevent disease. Energy healing spa treatments respond to this growing demand. Many spa therapists today are be-coming more interested in offering energy healing thera-pies to their clients. Reiki, hypnotherapy, chakra balancing, cupping, color, sound therapy and yoga are increasingly appearing on spa menus.

What is energy?Energy is light, split into wavelengths, vibrating at different speeds and frequencies that we see as the visible color spec-

trum. Everything is made of energy, including us. Do your cli-ents suffer from stress, anxiety, depression or constant mental chatter? These are the precursors to physical disease, and a sign that their energy field is out of balance. When you provide energy healing treatments, you are providing more than relax-ation. You are balancing your client’s energy field, which in turn heals the spirit. A healthy spirit is the best shield against disease.

Performing energy healing treatments is driven by an individual’s depth of feeling and intuitive abilities. The most beneficial techniques for the spa are based in traditional healing. Estheticians can integrate learned techniques with their intuitive ability to create signature treatments. There are four major traditional healing categories:

INTO YOUR SPA

INTEGRATINGenergy healingp

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BY LINDA BERTAUT

1. Hands-on healinga. Reiki is a simple, hands-on healing modality. Universal healing energy flows through the practitioner’s hands to the chakra centers of the client, balancing the whole person. Reiki quiets the mind and emotions, releasing stress, anxiety, mental chatter and even depression to feel peaceful within.

Reiki is ideal for integrating energy treatments into facials. At the reiki “master” level, you can enhance your products’ vi-bration level by attuning them to reiki energy. Each time your client puts on her skin care or makeup, she is energetically lifted.

Specialized training and attunements by a certified reiki master teacher are required to perform treatments on others.

The White Sage Spa in Milwaukee, MN offers a Reiki Facial (75 minutes, $95). Clients are treated to a mini reiki session during the masking portion of their customized White Sage Facial, allowing the reiki healing energy to flow throughout the entire 75-minute facial. This is a wonderful opportunity for clients to experience the deeply relaxing state that reiki energy induces along with nourishing the skin, leaving them feeling renewed.

b. Chakra balancing has become very popular and may be achieved in a number of ways. Chakras are energy cen-ters that collect and distribute energy within and around the physical body. Each chakra is associated with a color, sense, sound, endocrine gland and organs. Balancing the chakras is important, as they fuel and maintain the health of the physical, mental and emotional bodies. In balance, a person has more conscious awareness about who they are and their purpose in life. Integrating reiki energy into facials balances the chakras. The use of gemstones, sound and light can also work with proper training.

Relinquish Holistic Spa in Atlanta, GA offers the Chakra Balancing Massage, an “energy healing on steroids” treatment, where clients are left feeling as if they were floating out of the room. This treatment incorporates a combination of breath work, reiki, acupressure points, guided meditation, crystals and tuning forks (60 minutes, $125; 90 minutes, $150).

2. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM)a. Acupuncture is a main component to TCM. The body’s internal energy flow (qi) is balanced by stimulating specific points with needles on energy channels known as meridians, triggering the body’s innate wisdom to heal itself. Extensive training and a license are needed to practice acupuncture.

SenSpa, located in San Francisco, CA, offers the Acu punc-ture Facial Rejuvenation (80 minutes, $225), using needles to strengthen and stimulate the circulation of qi energy in the face and body while correcting underlying imbalances that may contribute to aging.

b. Cupping is another modality within TCM that is com-mon in spas. The use of glass cups to create suction on the me-ridian points mobilizes blood flow to improve circulation and promote healing.

Sunflower Day Spa in Nutley, NJ offers a Cupping Massage (30 minutes, $50) for relief of pain, numbness and muscle ten-sion, as well as stress reduction, rejuvenation and improvement of the immune system, among many other benefits.

continues

INTO YOUR SPA

Reiki is ideal for integrating energy treatments into facials. At the reiki “master”

level, you can enhance your products’ vibration level by attuning them to reiki energy.

organic & wellness


3. Traditional East Indiana. Ayurveda literally means “knowledge of life.” It is an an-cient healing system based on three major body types known as doshas: Vata, Pitta and Kapha. Ayurveda balances energy with the use of diet, herbal treatments, meditation, movement and breathing techniques.

b. Meditation focuses on the breath and quieting the mind to achieve a deep state of peace.

c. Color light therapy is used to balance the energy field and support well-being. The body absorbs color through the eyes, skin and the aura. If any part of the body is weak, the right color in the right place can restore balance.

The Raj Authentic Ayurveda Health Spa in Fairfield, IA is an oasis that offers a complete array of holistic Ayurvedic treatments and healing programs. The unique Maharishi Light Therapy with Gem Treatment uses special light beamers to infuse the vibration of precious gemstones such as diamonds,

rubies and emeralds. The soul of the gem is infused into the client, providing energetic healing that is experienced on all levels (regular beamer, 20 minutes, $120; big beamer, 20 minutes, $250).

4. Indigenous medicine healers Shamanic practices help one to claim disowned parts, whether mental, physical or spiritual. Various methods include drum-ming and chanting, soul retrieval, botanicals, herbal detoxi-fication, crystals and gemstones.

Aji is the Pima word for “sanctuary.” Located near the Gila River Indian Community in the Sonoran Desert, Aji Spa at the Sheraton & Wild Horse Pass Resort in Chandler, AZ offers indigenous-based facials, massage and energy healing treatments. They have crafted a product line harvested from local herbs and plants. Their unique offerings include Pima Medicine Massage, Sacred Salt Energy Balancing, Native Herbs Cleansing Wraps and Burden Basket Pima Meditation (50 minutes, ranging from $100 to $165).

Ancient indigenous medicine healing is now becoming mainstream once again.* Stephanie Sanstead, public rela-tions director for Aji Spa, says that clients come from around the country to experience the Healing treatment from Belen Stoneman of the Gila River Indian community (110 minutes, $270-$310). This treatment incorporates massage, polarity work, native plant medicine and a unique blend of spiritual healing techniques, passed down for generations by Pima medicine healers.

Energy healing treatments align with you and your spa. You have a license to touch. You have built trust and created a safe space for clients to come and unwind during a facial or body treatment. With a few classes and practice, you can offer stand-alone energy healing treatments that keep clients coming back to see you week after week. n

*See our upcoming story Wisdom From the Land—Native Amer ican Inspired Treatments in the July issue of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa.

Linda Bertaut is an author, speaker, award-winning beauty expert and reiki master teacher. She specializes in helping spas integrate healing treat-ments into their practice. A career that started in makeup and image make-overs turned into wellness and “energy makeovers” for the body, mind and spirit. Bertaut is a contributing author to the Milady Standard Esthetics Advanced textbook on reiki and wellness therapies for estheticians. She helps to reinvent spas into beauty and healing centers. For more information visit BertautReiki.com. Contact Bertaut at 925.446.6284 or [email protected].


organic & wellness|integrating energy healing into your spa

Shamanic practices help one to claim disowned parts, whether mental, physical or

spiritual. Various methods include drumming and chanting, soul retrieval, botanicals,

herbal detoxification, crystals and gemstones.



HEAD ON HOLISTICBalanced Guru launched its Scalp Detox, an organic detoxifying scalp treatment that naturally dissolves sebum and product buildup with an invigorating, clarifying herbal blend, says the company. This treatment is made with USDA certified organic ingredients and contains an astringent blend of oregano, tea tree oil and rosemary essential oils to begin the detox process, which then continues with algae, sea kelp and brahmi to rejuvenate tired roots.balancedguru.com 561.210.7331O

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GENTLE POLISHFarmHouse Fresh® debuts Sand Your Ground, an innovative clay mask that uses red Arizona Montmorillonite clay, pumice grains and organic willow bark extract to tighten, detoxify and soothe the skin, says the company. The vegan mask—free of gluten, parabens, sulfates and mineral oils—can be used as an exfoliator and left to dry on the face for two minutes before rinsing.farmhousefreshgoods.com888.773.9626

LEAFY GOODNESSÉminence Organic Skin Care launches this month its new Citrus & Kale C+E Collection. In this collection, super foods become super skin care ingredients to nourish, rescue the skin and deliver a stabilized infusion of antioxidants that defend against free radical damage, says the company. A potent dose of vitamins C and E is formulated for advanced age prevention and correction of the skin. The line includes a Serum—fast absorbing, advanced anti-aging for all skin types—and a Masque. eminenceorganics.com888.747.6342

BEAUTIFUL COVERAGELuzern Laboratories unveils Bio-Suisse BB, a skin perfecting mineral beauty balm with SPF 20. Packed with complexion-correcting pigments and antioxidants, the cream helps to diminish the appearance of pores, fine lines and uneven skin tone. The moisturizer features zinc oxide to protect from the sun; hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5 to hydrate; organic green tea and ginger to help improve skin elasticity and firmness, and Bio-Suisse organic alpine extracts to reduce oxidative stress. Available in light and medium. luzernlabs.com 888.591.7800


Reverse half moonAs seen on Mara Hoffman’s 2014 Swim Runway Show, reverse half moon nails will be this summer’s “it” manicure. Created for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Swim, this effortless yet ultra modern look is sure to make a statement. Make this manicure pop by pairing brilliant bright shades with white neutrals. For this unique method, Shell used a medium sized flat, straight-edged nail art brush. Apply the base color of choice. Using a flat-ended nail brush with some flexibility, place the brush at the tip of the far side of the nail. Rotate only your finger, keeping the brush still,

IN THE WORLD OF NAILS, TRACES of orchid are guaranteed to last through-out the 2014 summer season. Feminine and powerful, this purple continues to be a staple for nail art and pedicures. Bright and refreshing bold colors are a must have for the season. Nothing pairs better with a sun-kissed tan than bril-liant, vivid shades!

Color-blocking Color-blocking is a trend that popped up on spring runways and is sure to con-tinue well into summer. It is the perfect way to wear and pair multiple trending colors. Nail artist and blogger Christa Shell used bright and bold colors for the color-block mani pictured at right. The only tool needed for this beautiful geo-metric manicure is simple Scotch Tape. Striping tape will also suffice, although it requires a more tentative effort.

To achieve this color-blocking man-icure, apply your client’s first color of choice. Let this layer dry entirely before proceeding. Line the tape diagonally toward the bottom of your client’s nail, leaving a triangular gap for the next color to be painted. Immediately after painting, slowly peel the tape off. Let this layer dry completely before moving onto the next. Repeat the same step on the top end of the nail, lining the tape diagonally. This should look like a reflection of the first shape, leaving a triangle between the two with the first color choice. Apply a topcoat to finish your design.

by Branka Tomic

image color-blocking and reverse half moon

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in a circular motion to create the half moon shape.

Pair both of these amazing nail art trends with a color complementing pedi-cure. For a whimsical and delicate look, pair your color block manicure with orchid. The result is a rendering of orchid that is refreshing, youthful and bold. Pair a tan-talizing poppy red with the avant-garde reverse half moon manicure. This hot, bright hue is sure to boost your clients’ moods this season.

Both of these nail art techniques are quite simple to execute. Neither requires

Color-blocking is a trend that popped up on spring runways and is sure to continue well into summer. It is the

perfect way to wear and pair multiple trending colors.

nail design by Christa Shell of chrissyai.com


extra material, so you do not need to fac-tor that into the cost of any additional service charge you apply for the extra time spent on the manicure.

Your clients are sure to stand out in style this summer with these appeal-ing cutting-edge designs, and in the process broadcast your innovative nail artistry talents to the world! n

Branka Tomic is the cofound-er of LVX, along with Rade Tomic. Tomic loves nail polish, and be-lieves that it al-lows women to express their unique individuality by communicating personality and emotion through color. Tomic created this innovative brand of nail lacquer using her degree and experience in fashion.

image|color-blocking and reverse half moon

Reverse half moon nails will be this summer’s “it” manicure. Make this manicure pop by pairing

brilliant bright shades with white neutrals.

nail design by Christa Shell (chrissyai.com)


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GREENHOUSEBY SHAWN TOWNE

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GLAMOUR


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keeping a fresh face in hot weatherWINTER REALLY WORE OUT ITS WELCOME THIS YEAR. With cold, gloomy weather lingering well into late March, commiserating and pleading for sun and warmth became the national pastime on social media. But not to worry—scorch-ing summer days are here! And with them comes the age-old dilemma of keeping a fresh face in the heat.

The battle to maintain beauty in torridity was originally fought by Cleopatra. The indisputable fact is that makeup in any form, no matter how primitive or modern, has always been subject to compromise when exposed to high tempera-tures. Therefore, it is not surprising that the powder compact has become one of the most identifiable icons of makeup in the world. For as long as cosmetics have existed, some form of powder has been commonly used to control shine and maintain the appearance of one’s complexion. From the tropics to the desert to the movie sets of Hollywood, the ritual of touching a powder puff to the face has become an elegant symbol of beauty maintenance.

The exciting news is that our mother’s old talc based pow-der is no longer the only option. In fact, a whole new world of technology has come into play just within the last few years.

With the addition of ingredients like Acrylates Crosspolymer and hydrated silica, the term “fresh summer face” is no longer an oxymoron. Spas, salons and upscale apothecaries across the country are all offering their own customized versions of the melt resistant face. Here are a few that hold matte in the heat of our beauty spotlight.

Down in steamy Florida, the muggy months of summer can melt one’s face in minutes. At Spa Hollywood in Sarasota, estheticians finish every facial, hairstyle and manicure with a dusting of mineral foundation. They select a long last-

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pressed mineral powders; photos courtesy of jane iredale

“For those prone to getting sweaty or oily, switch to a matte pressed mineral powder or layer it on top of the current foundation . Minerals perform beautifully in a sticky/sweaty environment—it’s even hot yoga approved—and it will not seep into pores.”


ing, water resistant mineral formula with broad spectrum SPF 20 protection. Spa director Mary Winter explains that allowing three minutes at the end of every service for a quick mineral powder application has proven to be both ef-fective and profitable, as many of these guests return to purchase more retail from the spa for their daily regimen.

During the sweltering summer months in San Antonio, TX, temperatures can reach well above 100 degrees. Petra’s Salon and Boutique offers great solutions to both calm and preserve the face. Clients receive a cool, refreshing start to their makeup applications with refrigerated moisturizers, primers and hydration sprays. “This helps to close pores and minimize oil and sweat production,” says Ava Blair, manager and buyer for Petra’s. She recommends advising your clients to refrain from reapplying makeup during the day, and only use matte translucent powder or blotting papers. She also suggests putting some

matte powder under the lash line to prevent mascara from running. One last piece of advice Blair suggests for your clients: “Don’t skimp on moisturizer during hot months. Just switch to a lighter formula to help balance oil production.”

In the dry Sonoran Desert of Scottsdale, AZ, the Citrine Natural Beauty Bar has a dedicated clientele that stops in for face freshening ser-vices daily. Take it from Melissa Lenberg, owner of Citrine. “My absolute number one rule in any harsh environment is to prep and prime,” she says.

“Prepare before you apply foundation,” Len-berg says. “A good primer is perfect for locking that foundation onto the skin. For those prone to getting sweaty or oily, switch to a matte pressed mineral powder or layer it on top of the current foundation. Minerals perform beautifully in a sticky/sweaty environment—it’s even hot yoga ap-proved—and it will not seep into pores.” Lenberg also says that your clients should carry their com-pact with them throughout the day to touch up if they feel their makeup is fading away.

“Another must have this summer are hydrosol sprays, we have one for any and all skin types,” Lenberg continues. She says to advise your clients to keep these sprays in a refrigerator and use for a refreshing mist throughout the day. One last piece of advice Lenberg offers is to “cool it on the black.” This is particularly true in the daytime, when your clients will be doing activities outside where the sun is beating down on them. In in-tense heat, a black smoky eye will experience the beginning stages of a raccoon transformation.

Take this dose of warm weather wisdom to help your clients stay picture perfect during these sweaty summer months. n

Shawn Towne, the glob-al educator of jane ire-dale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®, has worked as a makeup artist for more than 20 years. His talent has been featured in fashion magazines, runway shows, television commercials and fea-ture films. Towne has worked with celebrities such as Mariel Hemingway, Eartha Kitt and Luke Wilson. He worked with the jane iredale team on the 2008 Fashion Week runway shows, and most recently taught classes in the Far East.

image|greenhouse glamour

“Another must have this summer are hydrosol sprays, we have one for any and all skin types,” Lenberg continues. She says to advise your clients to keep these sprays in a

refrigerator and use for a refreshing mist throughout the day.

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Beautiful Protection

Prevents: Skin Aging Dark Spots

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Age DefyingFusion

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800.332.5536tizofusion.com

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FOR THE AGES

TECHNIQUES AND TIPS FOR A BEAUTIFUL GLOW

BY MARY VAN

WE HAVE ALL HEARD IT. SIXTY IS THE NEW 40—AND 40 IS younger than ever! So as a makeup artist, how do you bring realistic solutions to your clients so they can enjoy a sexy, dramatic or natural glow at any age? The answer is simple. Change and expand your client’s base products, makeup palette, application and routine to maintain their timeless beauty.

The first step is to make a realistic assessment of your client’s wishes and any complexion obstacles they may face (such as sun damage) in achieving their desired look. This requires introducing new application techniques, proper tools, the alteration of colors and the introduction of different products.

Selecting and applying makeup for a 21-year-old is not the same as it is for a 35 or 45-year-old. The skin texture and tone has changed. However time has added new challenges, and what used to be the “go-to color” is no longer a beautiful option—in fact, it is probably a detriment. So teach your clients to embrace the skin they are in with a look that is compatible with their career, status and stage in life!

30s: The fast track • Clientsinthisagegroupneedtounderstandthatthisisthetimeto

commit to a quality skin care and sun protection routine. If sun expo-sure without SPF protection was prevalent in their 20s, it will begin to show in this decade. Emphasize how important it is for them to take care of the skin they are in by establishing a relationship with a professional facial and makeup esthetician, as well as following a complete skin care routine with SPF and hydration! Encourage them to check labels for sun protection attributes in foundations, and to keep their skin hydrated all day with a natural spritz.

• Toolsofthetradeareimportant,andinvestingintherightmakeupbrushes makes all the difference in application and results. When you are working with clients in their 30s, forget the sponges and use real brushes.

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• Usealighterhandinapplication,butdonotforgetthe“pop” of a trendy eyeliner, eye shadow or blush.

• Thisisthedecadetoappreciatetheallureofanaturallook. Utilize nude shades, and spice them up with a pop of hot pink lips or cheeks. Keep everything in balance.

• Defineandhighlightyourclient’sbestfeatures.Whataspectsof their beauty draw your eye? Is it their eyes, cheekbones or lips? Encourage them to do the same when they apply makeup on their own.

40s: Younger than ever!• Asimple,naturalapplicationisidealforthisclient.

However, their complexion and mood will always be improved with a bit of coverage and color.

• Porestendtobecomelargeratthisstageoflife,soap-ply a face primer under the foundation.

• Useaconcealerthatmatchestheirskintone,asthisiskey to brightening any under eye darkness and covering small imperfections.

• Strongcolors(suchasasmokyeyewithblack,violetorplum) are always beautiful; however, do not use a heavy hand. Remember that blending is the key! Colors need to work together—not stand apart.

• Paironeboldorstatementapplication(suchasabrightlip) with muted cheeks and more natural eye colors.

• Alwaysuseaneyeshadowprimertopreventcreasing,flaking or fading.

• Keepthebrowsproperlyshapedandgroomed,andusean appropriate “natural shade of brow powder or pencil” to fill in any gaps. Again, blending is the key, so the end result is a natural brow arch. Keep them in place with a light and clear brow gel.

50s: Fit and feisty!• Nowisthetimetohydrateandmoisturize!Adviseyour

client to update their daily moisturizer to accommodate their changing complexion. The products they used in their 30s and 40s are probably not up to par with the changes in their skin tone and color.

• Useaclearortintedfaceprimertofillinandplumpfinelines, brighten skin and minimize pores.

• Avoiddarkblushorbronzercolors,astheytendtoac-centuate hollowness if the face has thinned. If the face is fuller, apply blush in diagonal lines instead of following the curve of the cheekbone. This will minimize the fullness.

• Identifyyourclient’sbestfacialfeatureandhighlightit.• Curltheirlashesforamore“openandyouthful”look.• Focusonaneutralshadowfortheeyelid,avoidshimmers

and then produce a bit of definition on the crease edge of the eye. Top with a matte brow color, as opposed to a shimmer. As always, the key is blending.

• Lipsneedplentyofmoisture.Recommendthatyourcli-ents invest in a vitamin E based stick to keep lips supple. For lip color, the best rule is to match their natural color-ing—maybe a hint of pink, a touch of peach and a tinge of berry. The key is to outline the lip and blend the color.

60s: The new 40• Recommendthatyourclientadjustthecoloroftheir

concealer and foundation as skin begins to take on a different undertone.

• Minimizelinesandanywrinklesbyapplyingmakeupwitha large, fluffy brush and using a light touch.

• Usesoft,neutralmattecolorsforeyes.Shimmersandspar-kles should only be used under the brow to lift the eye.

• Applyamoremutedshadeofmascara,orevenuseaclear mascara to open the eyes without carrying it “down” with a heavy color. Mascara on the lower lash line may draw the eye down, so go without this if necessary.

• Lineupperandlowerlashestodefineandaccentuatetheeyes. Use a color that complements but does not compete with the eye shadow. Eyeliners do not have to be black. A soft violet, gray or brown does wonders. A lip liner should always be used to line the lips. In applying, stop short of the inside corners of your mouth if they turn up or down.

• Soft,mattepink,peachornudelipstickisthebestproductforlips. If using a lip gloss, keep colors neutral, without a shimmer.

• Adviseyourclientstoregularlymoisturizetheirskinanddrink plenty of water to hydrate from the inside out! n

Mary Van, the founder and CEO of Mineralogie, is a nationally renowned makeup artist and mineral makeup pioneer. Van launched the line in 2003 as a division of her parent company, Demaur Cosmetics. She serves as CEO and president of both compa-nies, and is the hands-on creator, in-spiration and quality assurance be-hind each new signature product and custom color.

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40s: Pair one bold or statement application (such

as a bright lip) with muted cheeks

and more natural eye colors.

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D CUSTOM SPRAY TANS, AIRBRUSH TANS, self tanning lotions, mist sprays, foams and au-tomatic spray booths all have one thing in com-mon: dihydroxyacetone (DHA). DHA, derived from sugar cane, was originally used as medicine in a children’s hospital back in the mid-1950s. When the medicine was accidentally spilled onto their skin, the doctor noticed a browning effect. In 1977, the FDA approved DHA to be used as

a tanning agent for skin (external use only). It works by oxidizing with the amino acids on the stratum corneum—the outermost layer of the epi-dermis. Think of how an apple turns brown over time after it is cut in half. DHA follows the same process on the skin. In the late 1970s, tanning lotions hit the market, turning skin as orange as ever. Why? Too much DHA.

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Most of the commercial self tanning products on the market use the European organic standard, EcoCert® DHA. Whether or not the active ingredient is organically processed, if the levels of DHA are too high or too much product is applied, the tan will look fake and fade to blotchiness (think leopard). People correlate poor fading with dry skin or the absence of exfolia-tion, when in actuality poor fading is a direct result of going overboard on the DHA (anything above 10 percent active). If your client has a known self-tanning allergy, do not tan them.

Great products and equipment do not necessarily equate to great results if the products are not applied properly. The most common mistake happens when a client asks for a really dark tan, not realizing how noticeable the fading will be, and how fake the tan can end up looking. Too often, the technician listens to the client and the result is horrible. What the client does not realize is that the product darkens over the next sev-eral hours, so the instant colorant in the self-tanning product has nothing to do with their end result tan. The active ingredi-ent does all the work.

Self-tanners usually last between one week and 10 days on the body, and just a few days on the face. The older your client is, the longer the tan will last, due to slower cell turnover. If the client can use a tan extending lotion (2-3 percent DHA) every other day, the tan can last up to a few weeks.

Tanning prepNo matter what application method you use, request that your client showers, shaves and exfoliates prior to the service. It is even more important that the client exfoliates prior to their second tan to remove any remaining self tanner from their skin. Any waxing, pedicures, facials, massages or body treat-ments should be completed before the tan, since the client cannot get wet or perspire heavily for eight hours. If your client is receiving a rapid or express tan, they will be able to shower in two to three hours, based on how dark they want to be and how strong the formula is.

Typically, regular self-tanning solutions contain around 9 percent DHA, and the express tans are in the 13 percent DHA range. It is important that the client brings in dark, loose cloth-ing and flip flops to wear after the tanning service to ensure that the clothing does not pull the tanning product away from the skin before it has a chance to do its magic.

ApplicationLess is more. The way to achieve the most natural looking tan for your client is to apply a small amount of product. When in doubt about the amount, it is better to err on the conserva-tive side so your client looks natural. Always apply less around the hands and feet. If the nails are not polished or artificial, it is important to wipe them off after the service.

image|guide your clients to a natural looking tan

SPAS THAT OFFER CUSTOM TANS: Spa Gregorie’s, with locations in Newport Beach,

CA and Rancho Santa Margarita, CA offers a Full Body Spray Tan ($45) and a Half Body Spray Tan ($23). A Shimmer Layer or Instant Bronze add-on can be included for an additional $10. For the Buff & Bronze Package ($109), the client’s skin is exfoli-ated with a tropical citrus body polish to leave it silky smooth and ready to soak up the tan. Then the tech-nician applies the spray tan.

Brazil Bronze Glow Bar in New York City, NY of-fers a Brazil Bronze Luxury Spray Tan Full Body ($60) and Dark Full Body ($80). In addition customers have the choice between its Brazil Bronze Express Luxury Spray Tan ($75), where a fully developed tan takes only two hours, its Brazil Bronze Luxury Mega-Hydrating Tan with Hyaluronic Acid ($75), and its Brazil Bronze Sculpted Tan ($80), where body parts such as abs and pecs are defined. Prices shown are all for full body.

AquaFX in Folsom, CA offers Body Bronzing, where an herbal enriched solution is applied by hand to give the skin a healthy glow (15 minutes, $39). Owner Andi Nuñez describes this service as a perfect add-on and a relaxing finishing touch for guests getting a massage or a body scrub.

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If your client is receiving a rapid or express tan , they will be able to shower in

two to three hours, based on how dark they want to be and how strong the formula is.


Types of tanning services found at spas and salons:

AUTOMATIC SPRAY BOOTH: The treatment itself only takes 60 seconds, and typically costs between $25 and $50. Recommend that your client opt for a light color, especially for their first tan, and suggest they use the proper barrier creams recommended by the operator of the spray booth. Make sure the client is offered proper protection for the eyes, lips and nose. This option is ideal for the client who wants privacy dur-ing their treatment.

CUSTOM SPRAY TAN: This treatment usually takes five minutes, and is applied by a professional with a hand-held spray gun. The client usually wears a disposable bikini bottom for minimal tan lines. It is recommended to spray five inches away from the body and 10 inches from the hands, face and feet, making sure the product does not get on the palms. The closer you spray, the more accurate you will be, the less product you will use and the less overspray you will have. When spraying the face, make sure the client’s eyes are closed, they hold their breath and their lips are tucked in. Starting on the back, spraying in downward passes, apply one to two ounces of product for a

full body spray. The faster the pass, the lighter the tan will be. The slower the pass, the darker the tan will be.

SELF-TANNING LOTION: Applying a self-tanning lotion on a client takes roughly 15-20 minutes. Tinted lotions are best to ensure even application. This method is relaxing to the client, since it is applied while the client is lying down. Starting on the back face down, apply one to two ounces of lotion for the entire body, using it sparingly on the hands and feet, allowing it ample time to dry before the client turns over.

Bottom line: If you want to give your clients the most natural looking tan possible, apply the “less is more” philosophy! n

Julie Nostrand founded South Seas® Skin Care in 2001. She has person-ally trained the staff of some of the world’s most elite spas, as well as makeup artists from the sets of Disney, HBO, Warner Bros., NBC, ABC, CBS and Fox. Nostrand can be reached at [email protected] or 866.961.9903.

COMING NEXT MONTHLNE & SPA

OUTGUIDE

LASH

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals April 2014 $7.50 Thinking of creating, revamping or

renewing your lash bar? Don't hold back!

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa's July

Lash out Guide will walk you through all

the steps…


IMA

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EWS

SWEET TREATSCinapro Nail Creations introduces this month its Nail Sugar, a collection of 10 multi-faceted colors created using different sized micas and glitters that is sure to appeal to the girly girls in us all, says the company. The tinted jelly base allows for smooth distribution in order to float the fine and larger size particles onto nails. Every bottle features the Spotlight LED cap for perfect application every time.cinapro.com 661.257.7827

NATURAL PLUMPEREco Beauty® by La Fresh Group launched its Be Good.™ skin care line formulated with a natural anti-aging botanical complex of maqui berry, licorice root, ginkgo leaf, grape seed and hickory bark. Made with collagen producing oligopeptides, shea, cocoa butter and luscious oil blends of sweet almond, jojoba, peppermint and cinnamon, its Hello. Lips Treat brings volume back, smoothes fine lines and shapes lip contours, says the company. The line also includes face cleansing wipes, facial cloth masks, a face serum, day moisturizer and night cream.lafreshgroup.com 888.552.3737

DARING GAZEMirabella Beauty launched its Pearls & Pastels Makeup Collection, which includes cheek, eye and lip products to create a fresh yet ultra-feminine look with candy colors as seen on the runways, says the company. The Refreshmint Pigment Powder eye shadow offers mint green color with buildable coverage, ranging from a sheer wash to an intense finish. mirabellabeauty.com661.702.9910

LONG AND CURVY Cherry Blooms’ Brush on Fiber Eyelash Extensions dramatically create 300 percent longer, fuller lashes in just a minute, the company says. The Brush on Fiber extensions is an exciting product that does not require glue or false lashes. The three easy steps—apply a generous coat of Transplanting Cherry Blossoms Mascara Gel, followed by a coat of Fibers before the mascara dries and another coat of gel—will give instant eyelash transformation and extension in 60 seconds. cherryblooms.com 951.225.9197


IMA

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SOFT SHINELady Burd®’s Illuminating Foundation Primer adds just the right amount of luminosity while creating the perfect canvas, says the company. Vitamins and antioxidants soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The specialized silicone base provides grip to increase the wear and longevity of the foundation. Available in new one ounce pump bottles.ladyburd.com 800.345.3448

LUSCIOUS FINISHCuccio Nail Solutions introduces its new Matte Top Coat. Designed with the same fast drying capabilities of its high shine top coat, it allows for a velvety matte finish when applied over any polish, says the company. Matte polishes have been around for awhile, but there’s a clear advantage to using a matte top coat: the flexibility of knowing that any polish can turn matte with a single application.Use in a single layer over color or use for design purposes and accents. cuccio.com 800.762.6245

BOLD AND PRETTYBV Cosmetics presents Beach Ready, its Dazzle Dry™ Summer 2014 Collection of nail lacquers. With vibrant hues of pink, yellow, blue, green and orange—and playful names like Going Cray Sea, Hey Sexy!, I’m Beachy, Kiss My Tan, Lotion, Please! and Tipsy Missy—the nail lacquers wear like gel, are non yellowing, hypoallergenic and strengthen natural nails, says the company. dazzledry.com866.398.9357

FABULOUS LOOK The Crave Collection launches its Brow Braun, a fortifying eyebrow conditioner that softens and strengthens, says the company. The conditioner is ideal for people who want to improve the appearance of sparse eyebrows. It is infused with a fortified blend of peptides, amino acids and proteins to enhance the natural health of the brows; rosemary to promote shine; and biotin to minimize breakage. The product contributes to fuller looking and healthier brows in four to six weeks. thecravecollection.com 866.447.6337


WestCentralEastInternational

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST REGIONAL EDUCATION & ONLINE CLASSES

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

LEARN ON LOCATION

West

JUNE 1Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA.877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ.877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 2Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course





by PCA Skin. Poway, CA.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Poway, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Jose, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 22Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA.877.PCA.SKIN.

Product Knowledgeby Skin Script Skin Care.Tempe, AZ.480.543.1121.


by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Central


by PCA Skin. Houston, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.


continues

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminarby PCA Skin. Austin TX.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminarby PCA Skin. Dallas, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminarby PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN.877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 2Peel Fundamentals:A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Austin, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals:A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN.877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 7-8JUNE 8Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.

Master the Art of Chemexoliationby Rhonda Allison. Schaumburg, IL866.313.7546

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Houston, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 9Master the Art of Chemexoliation

by Rhonda Allison. Schaumburg, IL.866.313.7546.


by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL.(True University). 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL.(True University). 877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Oklahoma City, OK.877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. San Louis, MO.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO.877.PCA.SKIN.

East


by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC.877.PCA.SKIN.

WestCentralEastInternational


Addressing Adolescent Acne

by PCA Skin. Online Course.pcaskin.com/online-courses

Alternate Therapiesby NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

An In-Depth Look at Melasma


Customizing Daily Care Regimens


Diminishing Deep Wrinkling


Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation


Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging


HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar

by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST.hydropeptide.com/webinars

Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea


Investigating Impaired Barrier Function



by PCA Skin. Richmond, VA.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Washington DC.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. New York, NY.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Washington DC.877.PCA.SKIN.

ONLINEEDUCATION

ONGOINGA Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients


JUNE 2-7Permanent Makeup 6 Day Training Course

by Beau Institute. Mount Laurel, NJ.856.727.1411.


by Rhonda Allison. Bloomfield, MI.866.313.7546.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Memphis, TN.877.PCA.SKIN.


by Rhonda Allison. Bloomfield. MI.866.313.7546.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA.877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Memphis, TN.877.PCA.SKIN.


by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA.877.PCA.SKIN.

JUNE 22 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL.877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Richmond, VA.877.PCA.SKIN.

calendar|east|online

CALENDAR OF EVENTS


calendar|online

Laser and Light Therapyby NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Medical Estheticsby NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

NaturaLash Level 1 Online Certification Class

by NaturaLash. Online Course.800.644.1297.naturalash.com/240.html

Product Formulations as a Whole


Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Sclerodermaby NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

Shedding Light on UV-induced Hyperpigmentation


Simple Steps to a Booming Business


Targeting Adult Acne


The Daily Care Product Overview


The Professional Product Overview


Treating Acne in Skin of Color

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100.nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

TRADE SHOWSSponsored by Les Nouvelles

Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA

NCEA Certified Prep Class

Triggers and Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. nceacertified.tv/online-ce-activities

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2014September7-8•LongBeach,CA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2014October19-20•Philadelphia,PA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2015March1-2•MiamiBeach,FL1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2015April26-27•Arlington,TX1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2015September20-21•LongBeach,CA1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2015October25-26•Philadelphia,PA1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress NCEA Certified Prep ClassSaturday, September 6, 2014 LongBeach,CA•1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress NCEA Certified Prep ClassSaturday, October 18, 2014 Philadelphia,PA•1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT)Saturday, September 6, 2014 LongBeach,CA•1.800.471.0229

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT)Saturday, October 18, 2014 Philadelphia,PA•1.800.471.0229


*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or out-side the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not neces-sarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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63 .............. Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research ...................lucrece.com ................................................................... 263

19 .............. Lycon USA ...............................................................www.lyconusa.com ........................................................ 275

33 .............. PCA Skin ......................................................................pcaskin.com .................................................................. 110

47 .............. PFB Vanish.....................................................................PFBVanish.com .............................................................. 229

20 .............. Professional Program Insurance Brokerage ................medispa-ins.com ........................................................... 208

113 ............ Rejuvi Laboratory ..........................................................rejuvilab.com ................................................................. 149

87 .............. Rena Levi .......................................................................renaleviskincare.com ..................................................... 105

132 ............ Revitalash .....................................................................revitalash.com ............................................................... 346

98 .............. Rubber Ducky Sunscreen ..............................................rubberduckysunscreen.com ........................................... 317

11 .............. Satin Smooth ........................................................... satinsmooth.com ........................................................... 304

9 ................ Shira ........................................................................ shiraesthetics.com ......................................................... 249

45 .............. Skin Care Consultants ............................................... lamskin.com .................................................................. 230

112 ............ Sugar Streak ............................................................ sugarstreak.com ............................................................ 309

5 ................ UltraLuxe .......................................................................ultraluxeskincare.com .................................................... 116



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LNE & Spa - June 2014

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