Lodz In Your Pocket

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ŁódźNo. 26, September - December 2014

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26

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inyourpocket.com

Your Guide to the City of Cinema

DESTINATION: BENEFITS:EXPLORE:

Discover andel’s Hotel Lodz, an architectural pearl situated in the former XIX century textile mill and carefully renovated brick by brick. The hotel’s de-sign is complemented by a unique collection of Polish contemporary artists.

The excellent location on the grounds of the Ma-nufaktura shopping, cultural and art complex and near Piotrkowska Street, the city’s longest bou-levard, make the hotel a new hotspot for urban discoverers.

ul. Ogrodowa 17, 91-065 Łódź, tel. +48 42 279 10 00, [email protected], www.andelslodz.com

A unique place in the heart of Lodz which is teeming with life and has an inimitable atmosphere. Discover the best Hotel in Poland; an architectural gem located in a restored 19th Century textile mill. It’s a place that combines business, entertainment and art where you can admire a unique collection of contemporary artworks.

DISCOVER AMAZING STYLE AT ANDEL’S HOTEL LODZ

facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket September - December 2014 3

Contents

Feature Welcome to... Woodge! 6

Arrival & Transport 8

City Basics 11

Basic History 13

Culture & Events 14

Restaurants 18

Cafés 27

Nightlife 28

Manufaktura 34

Off Piotrkowska 44

Sightseeing

Essential Łódź 47

Sightseeing 48

Hollyłódź 53

Jewish Łódź 55

Leisure 59

Shopping 62

Directory 66

Hotels 68

Maps & IndexCity Centre Map 75

City Map 76-77

Regional Map 78

Street Index 80

Listings Index 81

Features Index 82

IN PRINT

ONLINE

ON YOUR MOBILE

Łódź’s newest and coolest LOKAL (review on P. 26) Photo By Mat Fahrenholz

4 Łódź In Your Pocket lodz.inyourpocket.com

ForewordWelcome to Łódź (ph. pr. woodge) and the 26th edition of Łódź In Your Pocket! As the summer winds down and the brisk autumn ramps up, Łódź comes back to life. Students trickle into town and its back to business as usual for the professional set. You’re in luck if you happen to be a weekend warrior or here on an extended visit as the upcoming autumnal cultural calendar is bursting at the seams. September kicks off with an ace with the World Volleyball Championships. Read more about when the matches are and how to get tickets in our events section starting on page 14.

If sports aren’t your thing then make sure to check out one of the many concerts and performances including world class pop acts like Kylie Minogue, Lenny Kravitz or some throwback swing with the Glenn Miller Orchestra. There are also plenty of local events and festivals (don’t miss the Food and Explorers Festivals!) plus a plethora of shows and events for kids. As always let us know how your stay was in Łódż on Facebook (/lodzinyourpocket.com) or by old-fashioned email: [email protected].

So grab a coff ee, have a read, tuck us In Your Pocket and go wind your way around wonderful Łódź!

CZECHREPUBLIC

SOUTHAFRICA

DUTCHCARIBBEAN

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIA

GREECE

FYR MACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALYCROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANYBELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

FEATURE

As it’s name suggests, Łódź isn’t your typical city. It’s a gritty post industrial town with a lot of urban sprawl and even more rubber soul. But if you don’t know where to go you can easily miss the best bits. Don’t miss our essential Łódź sur-vival tips starting on the next page.

PublisherIYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Krakó[email protected] www.inyourpocket.com

Company Offi ce & AccountsGeneral Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31

Circulation15,000 copies published 3 times per year

Editorial Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Mat Fahrenholz; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Kalina Klimaszewska, Sandra Wilczewska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Anna Hojan, Steve Sibbald; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © whitelook - Fotolia.com

Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642Gdansk/Malbork Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

Copyright Notice & Editor’s NoteText, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

ABOUT IYP

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Welcome to... Woodge!

For many newcomers and tourists alike, Łódź is an anomaly in many ways. The city has garnered much praise for its fantastic film pedigree and dynamic cultural calendar (make sure to check our events starting on page 14). Economically and architecturally it is also being compared with other post-industrial revitalization success stories such as Manchester and Rotterdam. This is all well and good however in reality, Łódż remains impenetrable to many would be visitors. Some very basic information is needed before one can thrust oneself headlong into the all-night industrial warehouse parties and cut up the red carpet at film premieres. For example, how do I even pronounce the name of this city?! And where in the world is the city center? Have no fear dear reader, since you’ve made it this far, IYP has done you the favor of answering these two vitally important questions.

A TRIP OFF THE TONGUEThe odds are that since you are reading this guide, somewhere along the way you had to mutter your own creative interpretation of how one is supposed to offi cially pronounce Łódź. Most English speakers anglicise the city’s name to something akin to “Lodge;” we hate to break it to you, but this is way off the mark. While some Polish cities have widely accepted anglicized names (Warsaw, Krakow) Łódź is not one of them. While you can get away with de-diacriticising the name in written form ie “Lodz”,

pronouncing it is another thing altogether. If you tell someone in the Krakow train station you’re trying to get to “Lodge”, they may think you mean a mountain lodge and put you on a train to the Tatras. The key to cracking Łódź’s nutty name is obviously fi guring out how to pronounce these alien-looking Polish letters. There’s only four of them, so here we go: The Polish ‘Ł’ is pronounced like an English ‘W,’ the ‘ó’ is pronounced like an English ‘oo,’ and (to simplify a bit) the Polish ‘dz’ letter combination is pronounced like an English ‘j’ or ‘dge’ as in ‘ledge.’ So let’s hear it – stand up straight, take a deep breath and bellow it out: Woodge, Woodge, WOODGE!

The origins of the city’s name have never really been conclusively established, and as such a number of theories exist. Local legend has it that a chap called Janusz used to navigate the marshlands, small rivers and streams of the area in his little boat. One day his vessel got stuck in the shallow waters and he sat down to consider what to do next. During his period of contemplation, ably assisted by a small religious icon which he always carried with him, the skies opened and a torrential downpour engulfed the land. He took this as a sign and in order to find shelter he dragged his boat to higher ground and upturned it onto some short tree trunks to act as a roof and so the first ‘house’ appeared in the area. In Polish ‘Łódź’ means ‘a small boat’ and some think that the city’s coat of arms is a reference to Janusz’s little punt.


Welcome to... Woodge!Many believe the name simply derives from the name of the noble Łodzic family, with their crest becoming the symbol of the city, while others think it comes from the old Polish word for willow tree – ‘łozy.’ One theory which holds no water, unlike the ground the city is built on, is that the name stems from the river Łódka when in fact the opposite is true; the river was previously known as the ‘Starowiejska’ and was changed after the city had already become known as Łódź. Personally, we’ll stick with old Janusz, at least his is a nice story.

WHERE TO NOW?Now that you’ve got the name of the city under your belt, and a few anecdotes to boot, it’s time to fi nd all the action. The hardest thing about getting your bearings in Łódź is coming to grips with the fact that the city has no actual center. While this is quite normal for most large multi-million metropolises like London and Rome, navigating a mid-sized post-industrial city like Łódź can be quite disorienting. Luckily there is one street that will help you unlock the entire city: Piotrkowska.

Splitting Łódź into two, ulica Piotrkowska stands out as the commercial and social heart of the city. Measuring just under fi ve kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, industrial warehouse clubs, cinemas, hot-dog stands, and a mix of neo-renaissance and art nouveau buildings; some in chronic disrepair, others restored to their former glory. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościusko statue the street stretches southwards with crews of all-year-round rickshaws (5zł from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. Pretty much all of Łódź’s major industrialists kept residences on this street, as if their palaces were not enough, and many of the buildings boast intricate details on their facades; ranging from reliefs of dolphins to dragons to demons. In more recent years Łódź has entered the Guinness Book of Records as possessing the largest piece of graffi ti in the world. Painted by the Design Futura group in November 2001, the mural took two months to complete and is apparently very symbolic. Featuring Wolności Square and the Kościusko monument, Old Town Hall, an old tram and the city’s emblem on the side of a boat, the work combines the traditional with the modern and is well worth having a look at. Find it in the car park just to the northeast of the junctions of Piotrkowska and Al. Piłsudskiego.

Łódź’s most recognizable hotel can be found halfway down Piorkowska. Constructed in 1887-1888 the neo-renaissance Grand was originally the work of Ludwik Meyer, though the building saw sweeping renovations (including an extra fl oor) in 1913, courtesy of the architect Dawid Lande – a man whose designs deeply infl uenced the appearance of Piotrkowska. Functioning as a hotel for over 100 consecutive years the building has in the past sheltered an A-Z of heroes and villains, including Isadora Duncan, Roman Polański, Tito and Himmler.

Directly outside the hotel is the ‘Walk of Fame’ – star-shaped plaques celebrating Poland’s most famous cinema artists and directors. Other highlights to keep an eye out for include pianist Artur Rubinstein’s childhood home (Piotrkowska 78), and the ‘Turn of the Millennium’ walk: running from Piotrkowska 98 through till 146 you’ll fi nd 12,859 names of Łódź residents engraved into the paving. Elsewhere monuments of famous characters related to Łódź (Rubinstein, Reymont, Tuwim etc) can be found dispersed around the street.

So now you know where you and where to go, get on out there and explore this exciting city. You wouldn’t want to waste a day in Łódź now would ya?

© Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of Łódź City Council


Arrival & TransportFor those brave enough to venture out on the road, the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citi-zens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will fi nd their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your li-cense and passport at all times when driving.The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, fi rst aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times. Car related crime is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks where possible.

ARRIVING BY CARConnecting Łódź with the outside world are the E75 run-ning north, the E30 going north east, the west bound A2, the south running E75, and road number 72 heading to the east. Once in Łódź the fi rst thing you’ll notice is the treach-erous state of many of the roads, and you’d be advised to make sure the shock absorbers are in full working order. Car crime in Poland is rife, and we fully suggest taking advan-tage of one of the two guarded car parks in the city. If you’re parking on the street you’ll be paying 1zł for the fi rst half hour, then 2zł for the fi rst full hour, increasing from there.

GUARDED PARKINGQD-7, ul. Sienkiewicza 113, tel. (+48) 42 637 09 12.

GUARDED PARKINGQG-3, ul. Łagiewnicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 657 67 84.

BY PLANEAs Poland’s third largest city Łódź gets its fair share of air passengers, and with a brand new terminal the experience of fl ying in to and out of the city has gotten increasingly more pleasant (well, as pleasant as fl ying can be, anyway).

ŁÓDŹ AIRPORT INFORMATION POINTTravel agency providing tickets to ‘far corners of the earth’, general travel and airport information, low-cost carriers and regular lines, as well as promising the best off ers from Łódź and the rest of Poland. Info available from 07:00 - 22:00.QF-5, ul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport), tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.airport.lodz.pl.

ŁÓDŹ WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT AIRPORT (PORT LOTNICZY ŁÓDŹ IM. WŁADYSŁAWA REYMONTA)Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy Łódź im. Władysława Reymonta) opened a brand new terminal in June 2012 that signifi cantly enlarged the airport’s capacity

In spite of being Poland’s third largest city Łódź’s links to the outside world leave much to be desired, though the birth of the budget fl ight has at least opened a few new routes. Travelling to other destinations in Poland, barring Warsaw that is, can be a trial. Fortunately once you’re here you’ll fi nd the city has a well-developed tram and bus network as well as a bountiful supply of cheap taxis. If you’re traversing Piotrkowska, the principal high street, then take advantage of one of the dirt-cheap rickshaws that zip up-and-down the street.

BY BUSBus travellers to Łódź used to be dropped at the central Łódź Fabryczna station, but Fabryczna’s massive renova-tion means buses are picking up and dropping off primarily from Kaliska station (though other points around town are used as well). Expect this annoyance to continue until Fab-ryczna reopens in 2015.

ŁÓDŹ KALISKA BUS STATION (DWORZEC PKS ŁÓDŹ KALISKA)The Łódź bus station took up the eastern part of Łódź Fab-ryczna train station, and since it’s under renovation buses have been scattered around town. Express buses depart from Łódź-Kaliska (there is parking in front of the post of-fi ce) and tickets can be purchased from the booking offi ce which is open 05:00 - 20:00 Mon-Fri and weekends 05:30 - 20:00. There is no left luggage, but you will fi nd toilets and kiosks for transport tickets and mobile phone needs. In addition to Kaliska there is another bus station, Dworzec Północny PKS, located at ul. Smugowa 30/32. Note that all buses to Warsaw leave from Kaliska. Departure locations for buses to Lublin and other destinations should be checked via the website or phone number that are listed under Łódź Kaliska bus station.

GETTING TO TOWNIf you arrive at Łódź-Kaliska you have your choice of taking a taxi from the rank outside or cheaping out and taking the tram. Take trams 8,12 or 14 to get to the neighbourhood of Piotrkowska. Bus 98 is also an option.QE-4, Al. Włokniarzy (parking in front of the post offi ce), tel. (+48) 42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl.

BY CARFor someone taking to the road today the following warn-ings should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of built-up areas you will typically fi nd yourself sharing a single lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge fl eet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly fi nd yourself in a situation where traffi c is blocked behind said lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffi c. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front.


Arrival & Transportand which now handles all arrivals and departures. Inside you’ll fi nd Hertz, National, Europcar and Avis car hire stands, an ATM to withdraw Polish currency, a currency exchange offi ce (kantor), a police point and two places to grab food, Cafe Miś and Stop & Eat express bar. Taxis hover outside the terminal when planes arrive, and a journey to the centre is around 30-40zł. Two taxi companies, Taxi 400 400 (42 640 04 00) and Taxi Plus (800 500 500) are permitted to pick up from the airport and can be trusted. The bus stop is directly outside the main entrance though neither bus (55 or 65) drops you particularly close to the main street, Piotrkowska.QF-5, ul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35, tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.airport.lodz.pl.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Łódź can boast a well-developed network of bus and tram routes that traverse the city, however at the moment transit is very much under construction - to the point where run-ning our usual tram map doesn’t make sense. Be aware that delays are prevalent and factor extra time into your journey. The comprehensive website at www.mpk.lodz.pl features full English translation of content, including timetables for all routes, general information and ticket prices. A brief ex-ploration of the website will reveal that venomous animals are banned from public transport, as are people who are ‘slovenly, scruff y or give off an off ensive smell’. Reassuring, but in reality completely untrue. Tickets (bilety) can be purchased from most streetside kiosks, at some onboard machines or from the driver (for a single trip that doesn’t require changing vehicles) and must be validated on boarding the tram or bus by punching them into the metal boxes (kasowniks) found next to the doors. Failure to do so will result in a 70zł fi ne (if paid in 7 days; after it goes up to 200zł) if you’re caught by one of the undercover ticket inspectors. Prices are as follows:2.60zł (1.30zł) 20 minutes3.40zł (1.70zł) 40 minutesInterestingly the city has thoughtfully bumped up the ticket times by 20 minutes because of the construction and public transit renovations in the city; that means a 20 minute ticket is now good for 40 minutes, a 40 is good for 60, etc. In addition a single trip ticket from the driver is 3.80zł, and one day passes can be purchased from kiosks (12/6zł). Both trams and buses usually operate from 05:00 until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an N) serve the city.

BY TRAIN

With the city lying in the centre of the country, Lodz is a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering the country. It doesn’t actually have one central station though which means trains pass through Łódź using two of the three main stations - Kaliska (generally for east/west routes) and Widzew (north/south routes). The third major station is Łódź Fabryczna and while being the most central of the three, it is also a dead-end with trains from Warsaw terminating here, and currently closed for renovations.You can take trains directly from Łódź to most major Pol-ish cities but the speed on many can be torturously slow. At present a 250km journey to Kraków will take anywhere up to fi ve hours. Alternatively Gdańsk, 370km away, will take around 7 hours. It is worth checking the useful web-site http://rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection.

ŁÓDŹ KALISKA TRAIN STATIONWith Łódź Fabryczna on hiatus during renovations Łódź Kaliska has seen an uptick in traffi c. The station handles the additional visitors well and off ers all the essentials - ATMs, toilets and kiosks for transport tickets and mo-bile phone needs. A taxi rank outside will get you to the center of the city for 20-25zł. Cheapskates can get the 12 or 14 tram at the Dworzec Łódź Kaliska tram stop and get off at the Kościuszki or Sienkiewicza tram stops (7-8min) for quick access to Piotrkowska.QG-4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reserva-tions cannot be made between 23:30 to 01:00.

ŁÓDŹ WIDZEW TRAIN STATIONWith the closure of Łódź Fabryczna recently, Łódź Wid-zew now enjoys more traffi c. Fortunately it was mod-ernised recently and now includes 5 ticket windows (open 04:00 - 23:30), a waiting room and toilets (also for disabled), press kiosk, café and unreliable Wi-Fi. The station itself is closed from 23:30 - 04:00. If you want to save on cab money walk the 200 metres to the Puszkina tram stop (from ul. Służbowa walk to ul. Adamieckiego and turn right onto ul. Rokicińska and you’re there). Catch the 9 tram or 98B bus and get off at Sienkiewicza or Kościuszki to be at the heart of the city. The trip will take you around 20 minutes. New platforms and under-passes will be constructed but it won’t aff ect the sta-tion operations.QJ-4, ul. Służbowa 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl.

author: Triskaidekafi l/Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 3.0.


Arrival & Transport

CAR RENTAL

AUTO MIESZEKFull range of Ford cars available for rental in 1-2 day incre-ments, 3-4, 5-7 and longer periods. Transits and combis also on off er, as well as online booking.QF-5, ul. Obywatelska 181, tel. (+48) 601 68 96 05, www.mieszek.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

EUROPCAREuropcar is one of the biggest car rental companies and of-fers eight diff erent categories of vehicles to choose from. The airport location makes it easy to nab a car and dash.QH-2, ul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Airport), tel. (+48) 42 253 14 04, www.europcar.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Outside of these hours open by prior arrangement.

HERTZAlso at Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport. tel. (+48) 42 686 60 01.QC-6, Al. Kościuszki 68 (Hotel Światowit), tel. (+48) 42 636 46 39, www.hertz.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

TAXISTaxis in Łódź are generally trustworthy although you should guard against unscrupulous drivers by going for taxis which have clearly displayed prices (normally found in the rear passenger window). As a yardstick rates should be around 6zł the moment you get in and then around 2zł per kilometre. You should expect to pay approximately 50% more at night and on Sundays and public holidays. A stan-dard day fair to/from the airport from the centre of Łódź will cost around 30-40zł.

MERC RADIO TAXIQtel. (+48) 42 650 50 50, www.taxi-merc.com.pl.

MPT TAXIQD-4, tel. (+48) 42 191 91, www.19191.org.

TAXI DWA DWAQtel. (+48) 42 196 22, www.96-22.pl.

TAXI NOVAQtel. (+48) 42 611 11 11, www.taxinova.pl.

TELE TAXI 6400-400Qtel. (+48) 42 640 04 00, www.400.pl.

Avis, the global leader in car rentals, off er short and long rental cars, vans and chauf-

feur driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans. Over 1,000 models are available with all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of co-operation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. City centre location. Also available at the air-port upon request.QD-4, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź), tel. (+48) 607 03 63 08, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

CONTACT:tel: +48 22 572 65 65www.avis.pl

* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.

SPECIAL WEEKEND OFFER FOR YOUR CAR RENTAL.


City Basics

ELECTRICITYElectricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are defi nitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town.

HEALTH & EMERGENCYIn case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fi re brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic ca-pabilities of the call operator.

English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifi cally designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles dur-ing your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory sec-tion. If you’ve run out of money, however, then silly you. No em-bassy will bail you out, and and your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

LAW & ORDERIn general Lodz is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train stations. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.

FACTS & FIGURES

TerritoryPoland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Longest RiverThe river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and fl ows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).

Highest PointThe highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Moun-tains to the south of Poland.

Population (2013)Poland - 38,502,396Warsaw - 1,718,219Kraków - 758,940Łódź - 715,360Wrocław - 631,263Poznań - 549,082Gdańsk - 460,815Katowice - 305,995Sopot - 38,014

Local TimePoland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Łódź it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish sum-mer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sun-days of March and October.

MARKET VALUES

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of August 21, 2014 based on €1 = 4.15zł

McDonald's Big Mac 8.90 zł € 2.14

Snickers 1.49 zł € 0.36

0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.99 zł € 5.78

0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.72

0.5ltr beer (bar) 8.00 zł € 1.93

Loaf of white bread 3.29 zł € 0.79

20 Marlboros 14.70 zł € 3.54

1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.77 zł € 1.39

Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 zł € 0.92

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

November 1, 2014 All Saints’ Day

November 11, 2014 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)

December 25, 2014 First Day of Christmas

December 26, 2014 Second Day of Christmas


City BasicsAvoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The offi cially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 42 191 91) is possibly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train stations are by and large harmless and easily ignored. Staying on the right side of the law is signifi cantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Lodz’s premier drunk tank (ul. Kilińskiego 232), which unlike other cities is a rehabilitation clinic for addicts that can involve a 6-24 hour stay. The experience is free of charge and nets you a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest may well fi nd themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by jay-walking. Local city police will quite freely give you a 100zł fi ne for crossing at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fi ne when the light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a visitor. In fact your non-residency means you will need to pay the fi ne on the spot.

RELIGIONFor over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fi ghting against the horrors of pagan inva-sions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genu-ine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may fi nd the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at fi rst, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that oc-cur from time to time and the droves that fl ock to mass.

WATERWater in Poland is offi cially safe to drink although the qual-ity of plumbing in many places can aff ect the water deliv-ered to your tap. We therefore recommend that you use bottled water, which is widely available and inexpensive. In restaurants tourists are surprised to fi nd a glass of water is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your whis-tle. Beer is often a better bet since it’s cheaper and arrives in larger quantities, but if you’re set on having water it’s best to learn the diff erence between gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water).

LANGUAGE SMARTS

Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fi ercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding.Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your fl ustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Łódź and may even win you friends and admirers.On the downside, Polish is one of the most diffi cult lan-guages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases

Yes Tak (Tahk)

No Nie (Nyeh)

Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)

Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)

Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)

Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)

Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)

Please Proszę (Prosheh)

Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)

Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)

I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)

Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)

I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)

Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)

Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)

You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)

Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)

Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)

Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)

One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)


Basic HistoryBEGINNINGSŁódź fi rst appears in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia. In 1423 King Władysław Jagiello grants city rights to the village of Łódź. The town remains no more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population number-ing just 800 as late as the 16th century.

After the Great Northern War (1700-1721), Poland is more or less absorbed into the Russian Empire. The country will suff er through three humiliating partitions in the lat-ter half of the century. In 1793 the second partition of Po-land sees Łódź come under Prussian control and renamed Lodsch.

19TH CENTURYNapoleon’s march eastward sees his army greeted as liberators and in 1806 the town is incorporated into the Duchy of Warsaw. Napoleon’s subsequent disastrous campaign in Russia sees his troops return to France in tatters and in 1815 Łódź becomes part of the Russian-controlled Congress of Poland. In 1820 statesman, phi-losopher and writer Stanisław Staszic starts a campaign to turn Łódź into a centre of manufacturing. The fi rst cot-ton mill is opened in 1825 and in 1839 the fi rst steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia is offi cially opened. Within a matter of decades the city has grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire. By 1870 the population has mushroomed in size to over 70,000. The city enjoys its most intense industrial growth between 1870-1890, during which time vast fortunes are made by the major industrialist families. Dissatisfac-tion amongst the working classes grows, and the city becomes a hotbed of socialist unrest. 1892 sees massive strikes grip the city.

20TH CENTURYThe huge gaps in living standards between the rich and the poor come to a head in 1905 when the city is plunged into open revolution. Over 300 workers and protestors are killed as the Tsarist police force regain control of the city. By the outbreak of WWI Łódź rates as one of the most dense-ly populated cities on the planet with a population of ap-proximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. 1915 sees the city come under German occupation though three years later the end of the war restores Polish inde-pendence. The city loses nearly over 40% of its population owing to the post-war worldwide infl uenza epidemic and a huge social migration of its German inhabitants. In 1922 the city becomes the capital of the Łódź Voivodship but the city’s golden age has drawn to a close. Łódź’s textile trade faces collapse after losing both Russian and German markets and strikes and civil unrest become a feature of inter-war Łódź.

In 1939 World War II begins when Nazi Germany launch-es an attack on Poland’s military posts on Westerplatte (now part of Gdańsk). Łódź holds out until September 8 and is annexed into the Reich in November of the same year. The northern part of the city is turned into a ghetto, with approximately 200,000 Jews confi ned within its walls, of which only around 900 are thought to have survived the ghetto’s liquidation in 1944. The city is liberated on January 18, 1945 by the Red Army. The pre-war population is decimated with an estimated 300,000 Jews and 120,000 Poles killed during the six years of occupation.

POSTWAR ŁÓDŹFrom 1945 onward Poland falls under the Soviet sphere of infl uence. Business is nationalized and political and religious leaders are imprisoned. With much of the capi-tal, Warsaw, in ruins, Łódź is used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. In 1947 the Communists consolidate a political monopoly after rigged elections. In 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created. Władysław Gomułka becomes Poland’s premier in 1956 and a political thaw begins. Events in Gdańsk are the fi rst to rock the system; protest-ing about plunging living standards workers at the Lenin Shipyards call a strike in 1970, with the army promptly called in to intervene. 1978 sees Cardinal Karol Wojtyła elected as Pope and taking the name John Paul II. The following year he returns for a nine day tour of his native Poland in what is regarded by many as the pivotal point in the collapse of communism. Preaching 32 sermons in nine days his brief return off ers hope and unity to Poles, and lights the fl ame that will later explode in the Solidarność (Solidarity) revolution.

1980 A general strike is called in August by the fl edg-ling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa.

1981 Martial law is declared by the Minister of Defence General Jaruzelski on December 13.

1982 Solidarność is outlawed by the government.1983 Martial law is lifted in July and most political lead-

ers released from prison. Lech Wałęsa receives the Nobel Peace Prize.

1985-88 Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika reforms initiate a period of liberalization, though economic crisis and popular frustration continue to deepen.

1989 Following more strikes Solidarność is legal-ized. Partlyfree elections are held. Solidarność sweeps the elections and the Communist regime collapses.

1990 Lech Wałęsa becomes the fi rst popularly-elect-ed president of post-Communist Poland.

2005 Following a long battle against illness Pope John Paul II passes away. An estimated one million Poles descend on Rome for his funeral.

2006 The Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex opens to international acclaim, marking the city’s social and economic renaissance.


SnoS w White on Ice

Culture & Events

ART GALLERIESBAŁUCKA CITY GALLERYQC-1, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 42 657 58 52, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł, Thu free. N

CENTRE FOR THE PROPAGATION OF ARTQD-5, Sienkiewicz Park, ul. Sienkiewicza 44, tel. (+48) 42 674 10 59, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł, Thu free. UN

VILLA GALLERY/CHIMERA GALLERYQB-4, ul. Wólczańska 31, tel. (+48) 42 632 79 95, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 4/2zł, Thu free.

CINEMASCHARLIEQG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 203/205, tel. (+48) 42 636 00 92, www.charlie.pl. Box offi ce open depending on reper-toire. Tickets 10-28zł. N

CINEMA CITYQB-1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Box offi ce open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 14-31zł.

STREET FOOD FESTIVAL

28.09 SUNDAYŁÓDŹ STREET FOOD FESTIVALIf you consider yourself a fan of good food than this is one culinary extravaganza you won’t want to miss. Burst-ing onto the scene in January 2014 the Łódź Street Food Festival has taken the city and the country by storm. Oc-cupying the expansive courtyard of an old Machinery factory off of Piotrkowska street, dozens of Restaurants and Food Trucks from all over the country serve up their savory and sweet street eats al fresco. The event is kicks off with a food truck parade and there are concerts, exhibitions for you to enjoy while you munch. Expect long lines, delicious food and endless fun.QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 217, www.piotrkowska217.pl/festiwale.


Culture & EventsIMAXQA-1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.kinoimax.pl. Box offi ce open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 20-31zł.

CULTURAL CENTRESATLAS ARENAQF-4, Al. Bandurskiego 7, tel. (+48) 42 272 15 07, www.atlasarena.pl. Ticket offi ce open 08:00 - 16:00, Mon, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

COMMUNITY CENTREQD-4, ul. Tragutta 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 98 00, www.ldk.lodz.pl.

PHILHARMONIC STAGESARTUR RUBINSTEIN’S ŁÓDZ PHILHARMONICQC/D-4, ul. Narutowicza 20/22, tel. (+48) 42 664 79 79, www.fi lharmonia.lodz.pl. Box offi ce open 10:00 - 18:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 20:00 and 1 hour before the performance. Tickets 20-80zł.

THEATRE STAGESMUSICAL THEATREQG-3, ul. Północna 47/51, tel. (+48) 42 678 19 68, www.teatr-muzyczny.lodz.pl. Box offi ce open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 18:30, Sun 15:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-90zł.

SMALL THEATRE IN MANUFAKTURAQA-1, ul. Drewnowska 58B (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 633 24 24, www.teatr-maly.pl. Box offi ce open 15:30 - 18:45. Closed Mon. Tickets 25-45zł.

THE GREAT THEATREQE-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 86, www.operalodz.com. Box offi ce open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 15:00 - 19:00 on performance days. Tickets 30-80zł.

CONCERTS28.09 SUNDAYIL DIVOSimon Cowell’s operatic pop (yes, there is such a thing) band Il Divo is composed of Swiss tenor Urs Bühler, French pop singer Sébastien Izambard, American tenor David Miller, and Spanish baritone Carlos Marín. their discography includes six studio albums, including the UK 5x platinum Il Divo and 3x platinum Ancora. Their albums have been in-credibly popular abroad as well, attaining gold or platinum status in Australia, Canada, France, Germany, the Nether-lands, and others.QF-4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.imprezyprestige.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 159-390zł. Premium ticket 699zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manu-faktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

30.10 THURSDAYKYLIE MINOGUEFrom humble beginnings as a child actress and Charlene Rob-inson in the Australian soap Neighbours (which is still going, and currently at some 6,800 episodes - no longer with Minogue’s help), Kylie has come to be a hugely popular singer with a Grammy and multiple Brit Awards, whose worldwide record sales top 70 million. The pop musician is even an Offi cer of the Order of the British Empire and has been inducted to the ARIA Hall of Fame.QF-4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.livenation.pl. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 198-278zł. Available at www.livenation.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Kar-skiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). VIP ticket 938zł. Available at www.perfectpr.pl.

03.11 MONDAYLENNY KRAVITZCovering over 40 cities on his latest European tour, Lenny Kravitz is hitting Łódź to promote his 10th studio album Strut. Having won four Grammy Awards, the writer, composer, producer and multi-instrumentalist’s latest album Black and White America has sold over 38,000,000 copies and the gig is sure to be a belter. In addition to strumming the guitar, Mr Kravitz has appeared in a number of fi lms such as Precious, The Hunger Games: Catching Fire and The Butler. Don’t miss what is bound to be a great con-cert.QF-4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.livenation.pl. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 169-330zł. Available at www.livenation.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manu-faktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). VIP ticket 834zł. Available at www.perfectpr.pl.


Culture & Events10.11 MONDAYTARJA TURUNENColours In The Road is the title of Tarja Turunen’s latest tour and after the huge success of her two previous long plays - My Winterstorm (2007) and What Lies Beneath (2010) - the Finnish singer comes back to promote her eagerly-antici-pated new album Colours in the Dark. Well known from her co-operation with Nightwish and her three octave soprano vocal range, Tarja’s trip to Łódż is not one to miss.QA-6, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, www.daga.wroclaw.pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 100-130zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manu-faktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00) and before the concert.

27.11 THURSDAYYAMATO - THE DRUMERS OF JAPANFollowing on from their last successful trip, this famous collection of Japanese drummers are visiting Poland once again to give another series of concerts. The programme involves... well... lots of drumming, mixed in with tradi-tional string instruments such as koto, chappa, shino-bue and samisen. But it’s not just about the music - the energy and humour of the musicians means there’s never a dull moment and the choreography and acrobatics add extra spice.QE-3, The Great Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 135-195zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

30.11 SUNDAYTOMMY EMMANUELCited by many as the best acoustic guitarist in the world, the Australian master of fi ngerpicking and slapping techniques Tommy Emmanuel is set to woo fans at the Wytwórnia Club very soon. His repertoire includes all kinds of styles, ranging from country, bluegrass, jazz, blues and pop to fl amenco, classical and even Aborigi-nal music.QA-6, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, www.toyastudios.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 130zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Kar-skiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

02.12 TUESDAYGLENN MILLER ORCHESTRAThe Glenn Miller Orchestra was founded in 1938 by - you guessed it - Glenn Miller, but the man died six years later when the plane he was fl ying in was lost over the Eng-lish Channel. The band continued under new leadership; in 1953 Hollywood released The Glenn Miller Story, greatly boosting their popularity. Sixty years later, the orchestra is still touring (with all new members, naturally).QE-3, The Great Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 145-185zł. Avail-able at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).


Culture & Events

FESTIVALS19.11 WEDNESDAY - 23.11 SUNDAYEXPLORERS FESTIVALHave you ever wondered just what it would be like to test your ultimate limits - by this we mean hanging from cliffs, jumping from planes or throwing yourself against rock faces. If the answer is yes, then the Explor-ers Festival is just what you need. It’s a chance to meet up with international explorers, share their experienc-es, watch films and take part in various competitions and workshops. The programme looks at a vast array of extreme activities such as wall-climbing, bicycle trips, trekking and paragliding and past guests include big names such as Reinhold Messner, professor Bertrand Piccard, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sir Christian Boning-ton. Also of note is the festival is non-profit making and free of charge.QŁódź University of Technology Hall, Al. Politechniki 3a, www.explorersfestival.pl. Admis-sion free.

FOR THE KIDS18.12 THURSDAYSNOW WHITE ON ICEAfter the success of last year’s Peter Pan on Ice show, Wild Rose UK Production is back with its latest off er-ing - Snow White on Ice. Performed by professional ice skating champions (who can boast over 200 medals

in competitions including the Winter Olympics), this spectacle brings together a mix of ballet, dancing, cir-cus tricks and much, much more. With music by Silvio Amato, the show has already been performed in the UK, Italy, Germany and Switzerland. Perfect for those looking to entertain their kids on those cold winter evenings - especially as children under two years of age are granted free entrance (with ID and a parent’s lap to sit on).QF-4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 50-120zł. Avail-able at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

SPORT10.09 WEDNESDAY - 20.09 SATURDAYVOLLEYBALL MEN’S WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP POLAND 2014This September get your sports fi x in Atlas Arena, as ath-letes from around the world compete in the 2014 Vol-leyball World Championships. The fi nal match in Łódź will determine the 5th and 6th place teams in the tour-nament. For other games, head to Katowice, Wrocław, Kraków, Gdańsk, or Bydgoszcz.QF-4, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.poland2014.fi vb.org. Tickets 100-290zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Jana Karskiego 5, Manufaktura, A-1; open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).


Restaurants

Eating in Łódź can be a game of Russian Roulette, with the city off ering everything from gastronomic excellence to food poisoning. Perils and pratfalls await at every turn. The fi gures we list in brackets denote the price of the cheapest and most expensive main course, though these are subject to change. Likewise opening hours; if a dining room is busy expect the chef to labour into the night. By the same rule expect bolted doors if it’s been a quiet day.Here are a few suggestions depending on what you are looking for:

SPLURGE We’re fans of the Grand Hotel’s Malinowa restaurant be-cause the experience here is unmatched and it’s just the place to secure that important deal.

EXOTIC Try Delight in the Andels for racy fusion cuisine the like of which hasn’t been seen in Lodz before. Centrally located Istanbul Tajmahal has upgraded from kebabs to a large menu of Turkish and Indian cuisine. For Jewish-style food then Anatewka, a legend on the local gastro ladder. For Indian, Ganesh is ace and now has a location at Manufak-tura to boot.

KIDS You’ll have to trot out of town a bit but Złota Kaczka is worth the eff ort as this Chinese restaurant has a kids menu and an indoor playground to keep the wee ones happy.

COUPLES We love Dzika Kaczka and aside from off ering a knock-dead menu the venue itself is a true dating environment. And what is more romantic than sharing some fresh meditera-nean seafood? That’s why Kamari gets our vote for a dreamy date spot for two. Nothing says I love you like lobster!

LADS The Irish Pub promises a tasty T-bone when you need to line your stomach in advance of many pints while Pit Stop Burger Steak & Burger serves up heaps of well, red meats and plenty of beers to wash them down with.

LOCAL Just check out our Polish section and take your pick, al-though many are fl ocking to celebrity chef Magda Gessler’s new Polka restaurant at Manufaktura. Cud Miód sets the scene with massive helpings of Polish staples that would make your grandmother proud.

CHEAP Breadnia has breakfast that easily comes in under 10zl and will hold you all morning. And Teremok gets you a plate of doughy pierogi for cheap.

|Włooszcsz zyzna na | Photh o by Mat Fahhrenholz

Łódź on your mobile: m.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

AMERICAN BYK BURGER GRILL & RESTAURANTEThe whole burger explosion in Poland is starting to get a bit stale (like some of the buns we’ve had) but every once in a while we check out another patty parlour that just knocks us for six. Situated a few minutes’ walk from busy Piotrkowska, Byk was a bit of a revelation. The interior with its blood red seating and cattle/butchery prints was perfect and simple; no American kitsch here. The burger menu was innovative and featured names like Greek, cranberry, papaj and Mexico. The waitress was all smiles and really seemed to care that our burger experience was a beefy success story. Nice fat fries served with a brilliant Mayo, tomato, chilli and parsley sauce. Top marks from our team’s resident meat specialist.QC-5, ul. Struga 7, tel. (+48) 42 207 84 84. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-40zł). GSW

NEW PIT STOP STEAK&BURGERPit Stop is an attractive, modern roadhouse venue with a Formula 1 inspired interior. Popular with shoppers, motorists and the amiable motorcycle crowd they serve up some suc-culent burger variations. Try one of the petrol-head inspired versions like the Le Mans: a meisterstück pattie with breaded camembert, cranberry jelly, blue cheese, olives, salad, red onion and pesto. They also do a nice line in American-style breakfasts and pancakes with free coff ee!QF-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 25/27, tel. (+48) 502 75 55 49, www.pitstopburger.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 15-57zł. T6UVGBSW

CHINESE ZŁOTA KACZKASet around landscaped oriental gardens Złota Kaczka stands out as the best Chinese food in town, so it’s a bit of a shame you’re going to have to head out of town to get there. Your eff orts to fi nd it are rewarded by a top menu that far exceeds the glow-in-the-dark goo served in more central establish-ments, and if ever you needed evidence of this then snatch a look at their guest list. Previous diners number Robin Wil-liams and John Malkovich, as well as a fair spread of lesser known Polish celebs and politicians. Ring in advance if you wish to sample the giant Peking duck for two. And don’t leave the kids at home; not only do they get their own menu but there’s also a special kids corner and indoor playground to keep them entertained.Qul. Rąbieńska 53 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 42 712 64 03, www.zlotakaczka.lodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-58zł). TUVGBSW

NEW ZŁOTY IMBIROpening the door to this unassuming little restaurant on a Friday afternoon we were astounded to fi nd it packed! Initial suspicion regarding the two elderly and tough look-ing waiters in black shirts and red bowties were soon put to rest as they turned out to be that rare breed - old school gents and masters of their profession. Orders were taken

THE ONLYEASTERN EUROPEANCUISINE IN LODZ


Restaurantsquickly and the food arrived after a short wait. Not only was the service brilliant but the food was also some of the best Chinese we have had in a long time; everything was fragrant, well presented and packed with fl avour.QD-5, ul. Sienkiewicza 39, tel. (+48) 690 51 69 00, www.zlotyimbir.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (14-48zł). TUVGSW

CZECH CESKY FILM RESTAURANT & PUBThe fi rst restaurant to nab a spot in the renovated Księży Młyn complex, Cesky Film is a bright, open Czech restau-rant that takes its name from the fi lm canisters and giant movie stills that make up the decor. It’s an appealing - if random - design, but our eyes were immediately drawn to the fi ve taps of various Cerna Hora beers. Paired with the fi lling Czech goulash and hearty dumplings you’ll start to consider Polish cuisine to be light fare.QG-4, ul. Ty-mienieckiego 25a, lok 3, tel. (+48) 881 40 38 88, www.ceskyfi lm.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-55zł). UEGBSW

EASTERN EUROPEAN SERVANTKAServantka stands out as the fi rst restaurant in all of Poland where our waitress followed up shortly after delivering our delicious Russian dumplings to ask how everything was. A small but revolutionary act we say. Servantka specializes in Russian and Ukrainian dishes, and the hearty solanka rosyjs-ka soup can best be described as meatastic while the blini with herring is a culinary trip to Red Square. The restaurant’s interior is impressively cozy, with heaps of fl ickering candles and a large fi replace.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 42 630 75 45, www.servantka.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-55zł). IGBSW

GEORGIAN RESTAURACJA LAVASHNamed after the popular fl atbread of the Caucauses, Lavash serves up a number of traditional dishes from Armenia and Georgia plus some modern takes on favourites of the region - for example, their version of baked duck comes with a splen-

SYMBOL KEY

G No smoking T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled

S Take away X Smoking room available

V Home delivery E Live music

I Fireplace W Wi-fi connection


Restaurantsdid pomegranate and honey sauce. If you’re tired of eating Polish pierogi, try the Georgian equivalent, Khinkal - large boiled dumplings fi lled with highly seasoned beef. A small shop area also sells a selection of imported preserves, juices and wines (including quince and pomegranate). Well worth visiting if you’re looking to expand your culinary horizons and try something diff erent.QG-3, ul. Piotrkowska 69, tel. (+48) 660 52 53 79, www.lavash.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (12-35zł). GBW

GREEK KAMARIDesigned to look like a seaside taverna, this elegant Greek restaurant just opened in a new location and they haven’t skipped a beat. Everything is as authentic as it can get with even a Greek language menu and overly friendly and hos-pitable staff . The menu is a good selection of grilled meats, salads and Greek staples (even gluten free options!) though the star of the show is the fresh fi sh represented by lobster, octopus and calamari. Reminiscent of many of the taver-nas you’ll fi nd lined up next to each other in the centre of Greek holiday villages, with a cafe vibe that includes ample reading material for extended midday lounging, this is the perfect escape from the real Łódź world outside.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 122, tel. (+48) 42 633 21 21, www.restauracjakamari.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19-120zł). TGBSW

INDIAN ISTANBUL TAJMAHALŁódź’s favorite kebab spot has expanded to a full-blown restaurant with a menu of Indian and Turkish dishes that proves their talent isn’t one-note. The tandoori dishes are a standout, especially if you enjoy a mix of meat and vegeta-ble variations like methi paneer and the vegetable cheese rolls. You can also get hand-held fare like shoarmas and of course kebabs. Expect to encounter the owner, who likes to help guests choose the ideal Indian dish. And yes, you can still get yourself a signature kebab if you’re hankering for the old days.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 88, tel. (+48) 42 632 00 96. Open 10:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (20-39zł). TVGBSW

INTERNATIONAL BREADNIABreadnia wouldn’t look out of place in any major European city with it’s mix of italian pizzas and pastas and trans-coni-nental bistro fare. Try the mixed meat or cheese platters served up with bread from the on-site bakery or something from the bagel selection; the Karczek (roast neck meat) bagel with honey dressing and caramelised red onions is amazing! About 60 wines from around the globe are avail-able by the bottle and the cool interior doubles up as a gallery space showing work by established young artists, as well as off ering a launch pad for students from the lo-cal art and fi lm schools. Great place for a Sunday morning

Al. Jana Pawła II 25/27Tel. (+48) 502 75 55 49www.pitstopburger.pl

pitstop.lodz


Restaurantsbreakfast when the staff are as bubbly and friendly as in the evenings!QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-30zł). T6GBSW

DZIKA KACZKAOne of the best dining rooms in the city and perfect when trying to clinch that big deal. A country club atmosphere is complimented by salmon walls and wood paneling while bow-tied waiters, soft music and important looking cut-lery arrangements generate an upper-crust atmosphere. Head chef Marek Skrętowski is the mastermind behind the menu, and diners can choose from cracking dishes like fried sturgeon in mustard. Highly recommended.QF-1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz (Stacja Nowa Gdynia Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 714 21 51, www.dzika-kaczka.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (29-69zł). TUGBSW

FOUR COLORSLocated in the brand new Łódź Hilton this luxurious and stylish restaurant presents an exquisite and original menu by the man at the helm, Rafał Zgajewski. The de-lectable dishes on off er are a selection of international specialities with a Polish twist like seared scallops served on shallot puree with vanilla and reduction of blood oranges or Foie Gras creme brulee with Tokaj jelly. Add to this a stunning and informative 100-strong wine list, including the magnifi cently titled ‘Wine Treasures of the Four Colors Restaurant;’ we stopped reading that sec-tion after noticing the Chateau Latour A.O.C. Pauillac 1-er G.C.C, yours for only 4900zł.QA-7, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www.lodz.doubletree.com. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:00. (26-108zł). TUGW

IRISH PUBSituated in the basement the dining quarter of the Irish Pub feels neither Irish nor particularly like a pub. Tread down the stairs to reach a large room with napkin laid ta-bles penned in among padded seating and some cursory photographs evoking the spirit of Joyce. What you won’t fi nd are all day breakfasts and steaming stews, but you will be rewarded with decent renditions of heavy Polish favourites.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 42 632 48 76, www.irishpub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (19-79zł). T6EBX�SW

MALINOWAThe fl agship restaurant of the Grand is something of an eyebrow raiser. Filling an imperious looking hall this place has chandeliers hanging from skylights, and a ballroom atmosphere straight from the age of cavalry charges and duels at dawn. The style is fantastic, and the menu equally so with a list that mixes modern presentation with classic local and global tastes. This indulgence is no-way as expen-sive as it should be, and the steak well worth a look. For too long considered a middling hotel restaurant, the signs are

We warmly invite you!

We always aim to meet the needs of all our guests!

For us nothing is impossible!

Tel. +48 42 632 48 76, +48 662 153 200 [email protected], www.irishpub.pl

Smoking LoungeLive music every Th ursdays,

Fridays and SaturdaysKitchen open daily until 24.00,

at weekends until 01.00


Restaurants

that the new look Malinowa is back and barking business.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 72 (Grand Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 633 99 20, www.grandlodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-59zł). 6UGSW

RESTAURACJA KOLORY WINAModern molecular cooking? In Łódź? It took us by surprise too, especially since this alchemic cuisine is only just show-ing up in the capital. But chef Jarosław Bieńkowski is em-ploying molecular gastronomy at Nobo Hotel’s restaurant with pleasing results, though us naming dishes won’t do you any good since the menu changes regularly (and cre-atively). The setting is as exacting as the dishes, with red chandeliers and crisp white tablecloths giving off a mod vibe.QF-2, ul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy (NoBo Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.kolory-wina.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (25-61zł). T6UVGSW

RESTAURACJA U KRETSCHMERASituated in the basement level of the trendy Hotel Tobaco, the restaurant is a stunning and fascinating blend of the building’s past history as a tobacco factory mixed with modern architectural design. Smoothly plastered walls suddenly make way for original brickwork and the walls are decorated with ‘treasures’ discovered during the restora-tion - metal plaques, tobacco advertising, plans and pho-tographs from the factory’s 1920’s-40’s heyday, as well as the communist era. The menu is a well-considered fusion of fl avours crafted from the cuisine of the four prevalent

nationalities for whom Łódź was home: Polish, German, Russian and Jewish. Dishes are lavish and include rolls of goose with carrot pancakes and cranberry dressing as well as white chocolate mousse on a meringuecake for dessert.. Exquisite dining in a unique atmosphere.QF-4, ul. Koper-nika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.hoteltobaco.pl. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 13:00 - 22:00. Note that the bar stays open daily until 24:00. (32-62zł). UGW

ITALIAN ANGELOOwner Angelo Lombardi believes in authentic, straight for-ward Italian cooking. When that’s done just right why mess with it? The proof of its success is the hard-core fan base of this smart little restaurant and the fact that it’s been going strong since 2006. The regular menu is short and sweet and includes pasta dishes like pappardelle with porcini mush-rooms, saff ron and speck and the house favourite of beef fi llet with green peppercorns. Monday - Wednesday sees an ever-changing range of meat-based dishes and Thurs-day - Saturday it’s the turn of fresh seafood. A nice range of Italian wines start at a very decent 45zł a bottle. In true Ital-ian style Mr Lombardi regularly patrols the fl oor, chats with customers and helps out in the kitchen. A jolly family at-mosphere is heartily encouraged.QC-4, ul. 6-go Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 39, www.angelorestauracja.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (18-79zł). TGSW


RestaurantsNEW OTWARTE DRZWIA lovely little Italian restaurant tucked away in a well looked after and peaceful courtyard. The young and enthusiastic Polish own-ers/chefs, Maciek and Konrad, developed their passion for Italian cooking during their travels around the land of La Dolce Vita. The classic menu, featuring authentic pizza and pasta dishes, is kept to a manageable length with most of the products used in the kitchen coming directly from Italy. Otwarte Drzwi also features a proper wood burning pizza oven, a relaxing outdoor area, fi ne Italian wines and regional Polish beers. The whole experience is topped off by the extremely nice and unpretentious owners and staff .QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 502 85 57 79, www.otwarte-drzwi.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (17-29zł). TGBS

PRESTOA fi rm editorial favourite. Cooked in a traditional wood fi red oven the pizzas in this white-washed trattoria are cheap, fast and a far better alternative to the big brand pizza delivery em-pires you’ll fi nd on Piotrkowska. We had the Mafi oso - salami, garlic, peppers and chillis - and for once we were not disap-pointed by a chef skimping on the spices. The topping sauce arrives in a separate jug, allowing you to choose whether or not you wish to drown your pizza in red goo. Also at ul. Maratońska 67/69 (F-4).QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 83, www.pizzeriapresto.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-26zł). TUVGBSW

RESTAURACJA GRONOWALSKIThe renovations happening around Księży Młyn are resulting in an infl ux of new businesses, and Restauracja Gronowalski is one of the most eye-catching of the newcomers. The two-story brick building features event space, a Cuban-themed bar (complete with smoking room) and a large image made entirely of thousands of Swarovski crystals. All of which means nothing if the food is bad, which is happily not the case. Try the goose breast with caramelised apples, grapes, slices of fresh orange and beet leaves or the scallops in butter served with baked leek and black sesame seeds. Lemon Panna Cotta. Be sure to look up from your food, though, as Gronowalski re-ceived The Best Interior 2012 courtesy of Fundacja Piotrkowska for their high-style design.QG-4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 673 02 90, www.buddhapub.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (28-80zł). UBXSW

NEW RESTAURACJA WŁOSZCZYZNANot a name that rolls of the tongue, but in Polish it’s a pretty good play on words so ask somebody to explain it to you! The Italian menu is kept well under control and runs to a few antipasti platters, a selection of pizza and pasta options and a few mains. Pizzas are available as slices, so no need to or-der something the size of a satellite dish if you’re just feeling a little peckish. The multinational team insist on ecological and fairtrade sourced products as well as supporting local growers and suppliers. Our coff ee expert says the espresso was akin to a lion’s roar!QC-3, ul. Piotrkowska 16, tel. (+48) 535 19 24 32. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (14-36zł). TGSW

ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (48) 42 630 36 35also at ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura)tel. (48) 42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl

Open every day from 12 till the last guestLive music every day

Step into our cosy garden...

CUISINE OF POLISH JEWS

Discover the true taste of Italian flavors

ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, Łódź, tel. +48 42 632 46 39www.angelorestauracja.com

Original recipes and products imported directly from sunny Italy


Restaurants

JAPANESE HOUSE OF SUSHIA new owner and chef have taken the reliably good House of Sushi to a new level of popularity; we followed a stream of customers to their courtyard space in search of the salmon teriyaki on the new thoughtfully trimmed down menu. The easy design involving pale blond woods, paper lanterns and a spot of Japanese calligraphy remains the same.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 42 674 00 40, www.houseofsushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (25-39zł). TUVGBSW

JEWISH ANATEWKACelebrate Łódź’s Jewish heritage inside an atmospheric venue scattered with prayer shawls, menorahs and gener-al bric-a-brac, and don’t forego a visit in the evening, when the live music recitals involve violinists sitting on a chair suspended half way up a wall. A team of fl ighty waitresses take the orders, and the chef does the rest coming up trumps with a range of traditional Jewish dishes, including rather good goose. The addition of a new banqueting hall and VIP rooms now mean that you can dine in private or alternatively at a single table seating 100 people.QC-4, ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (+48) 42 630 36 35, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (27-68zł). T6UEBX�SW

MIDDLE EASTERNNEW JAFFA - HUMMUS & THE OTHER STORIESJaff a is a nice and simple aff air serving up a range of Israeli vegetarian dishes and interesting drinks. They’re big on hummus and mezze dishes but pop by early for a classic Israeli/Tunisian shakshuka breakfast (eggs in a tomato, pep-per and onion sauce) or later in the day go for the koresht fesenjaan (tofu goulash with nuts, red onion and pome-granate sauce). Keeping it all contemporary and slick the décor is kept to a minimum; a small bookcase featuring a selection of cult books and comics and some Hebrew let-tering prints. Also worth a shot is their Mazel Tov, a vodka and date syrup cocktail.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 792 36 60 13. Open 10:30 - 22:00. Closed Wed. (10-40zł). T6GBSW

KEBAB HOUSEWhereas its sister restaurant just up the road caters to a more downmarket clientele and features a more fast food style atmosphere, Kebab House’s fl agship steakhouse is almost posh in comparison. Even better, where scores of Polish kebab restaurants nationwide leave one reaching for the Imodium, the dishes here go down a treat, and, more importantly, stay down. And now with added kid’s corner!QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 632 20 65. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. (16-40zł). TGBS

SPHINXThe plastic laminate menu is huge, though pretty much all the promised eastern dishes transpire to be endlessly tiring combinations of shredded meat, cabbage and car-rots - every bit as appealing as it sounds. The Egyptian authenticity comes confi rmed by the presence of pizza, plastic trees and a menu designed by some random called Tom Maltom. The locals love it however, and the Sphinx chain has spawned a host of copycat enterprises along Pi-otrkowska. On the plus side it’s cheap, simple and hits your calorie count in one strategic swoop - if you’re here on a lad weekend then what more could you want?QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 250, tel. (+48) 42 636 16 07, www.sphinx.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł). TGBS

POLISH CUD MIÓDA fairytale restaurant that could have been built with Hansel and Gretel in mind. Here it’s all log-cutters furniture, fl ower pots and rural ceramics, with walls painted with the win-dow views you’d fi nd in a country cottage. Best of all, there’s a bar that looks like a teapot. The menu features some seri-ous bloodlust, with lots of farm animals carved and cooked in various Polski ways. Light eaters aren’t overlooked mind, and wimpy diners will fi nd lighter dishes like fi sh, soups and pierogi all on the menu.QF-3, Al. Włókniarzy 151, tel. (+48) 665 18 90 50, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (16-40zł). TBXSW

Restauracja Polska, ul. Piotrkowska 12

tel. 042 633 83 45

www.restauracjapolska.net1.pl

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE


Restaurants KARCZMA U CHOCHOŁALots of primitive wooden benches, animal skins on the walls, miscellaneous rustic crudities and a tiled fl oor create the right atmosphere for perhaps the best national restau-rant in the city. The service is friendly and the food, includ-ing dinky bowls of smalec, large hunks of bread, venison, wild boar and a selection of traditional 17th-century pud-dings, is top notch. In fact, it’s such a shock to the senses that it comes as quite a surprise when you leave to realise you’re actually in Poland at all. Whereas so many folklore-themed hunters’ restaurants fail to deliver beyond the decoration, Karczma u Chochoła have bothered to get the whole thing right.QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 200, tel. (+48) 42 637 09 19, www.uchochola.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (9-62zł). GSW

NEW LOKALNot content with being a snazzy, modern and unstuff y restaurant with an extraordinarily innovative menu, Lokal is also an important landmark on the cultural map of Łódź. The name was chosen to refl ect their support for local produce, local art and local music - with the arts programme being as cutting edge as the cuisine. For something diff erent in the light bite department you should try some of the ‘plates’ (Polish Tapas), just mix and match any number of items from the list. Those who know how to think ahead should go for the Sunday set lunch which must be booked by Thursday.QC-5, Al. Leona Schillera, tel. (+48) 666 03 40 06, www.lokal-lodz.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (18-47zł). T6GBSW

PIWNICA SMAKÓWEnter amongst the rather curious honey and beekeeping equipment shop into this American diner-esque restaurant with ceiling fans and chequerboard fl ooring to boot. The din-er atmosphere was reinforced even more by the large group of American students chattering away in the corner. The con-cept is simple; off er up a range of tasty, well presented Polish lunch dishes, burgers, pastas and beers at unbelievably low prices close to University-land and watch the students fl ood in! All in all, excellent quality for the price but possibly best avoided if you are over 22 and don’t wear converse sneakers and oversized knitted hats.QG-3, ul. Narutowicza 59, tel. (+48) 603 71 47 98, www.piwnicasmakow.strefa.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-20zł). GSW

POLSKASplit into two sections, small café on one side, posh restaurant on the other, customers are greeted in the hallway by a board plastered with famous faces who’ve dined here. Decorated with striped wallpaper, black and whites of Industrial Age Łódź and lots of plant pots. Res-tauracja Polska rates as one of the premier addresses on Piotrkowska. Smart, attentive service leads you through a top-notch menu that includes trout, lamb and wild boar.QC-2, ul. Piotrkowska 12, tel. (+48) 42 633 83 45, www.restauracjapolska.net1.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (17-49zł). T6VGSW

RESTAURACJA W ŁAŹNIIf touring the Textile Museum inexplicably works up an appetite you don’t have to travel more than a few meters before landing at the museum’s restaurant. We recommend dining al fresco as you peruse the menu (unfortunately only written in Polish) which touches on Russian, Jewish, German and Polish cuisine. Our waiter patiently rattled off lunch options though, which landed us an undercooked hunk of chicken and formerly frozen fries for the bargain-basement price of 12zl. We’re hoping time helps work out this newcom-er’s kinks.QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 633 67 60. Open 10:00 - 20:00. (12-35zł). 6UG�BSW

REVELORelive the golden years of Łódź inside this inter-war time machine. Diners are ushered to their table by cloth capped skivvies, and get the choice of various saloons. On the right side fi nd a wood heavy room festooned with antique trappings, on the left a swish chamber with a penny farthing suspended from the wall, and young Gordon Ramseys waving wildly in the open kitchen. The menu is modern Polish and fi rmly established in epicu-rean folklore.QD-7, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86 86, www.revelo.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:45. (26-69zł). TXSW

TEREMOKThe classic Polish comfort food of pierogis is treated like a king at Teremok, where you can sample Russian and Kazakh versions (as well as the classic kind) for just the change in your pocket. Stacks of pancakes, both sweet and savoury, add to the budget options. They’ve recently moved down the street but the address is the only thing that’s changed. Also at Piotrkowska 36 (C-3).QD-3, ul. Piramowicza 11/13, tel. (+48) 42 207 10 71, www.teremok.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (9-15zł). GS

VEGETARIAN ZBOŻOWAŁódź is certainly coming on leaps and bounds in the healthy eating category (light years ahead of Warsaw), and Zbożowa is a great addition. Strictly speaking we can’t call it a purely vegetarian restaurant but the emphasis is on regularly changing natural, healthy dishes using fresh seasonal produce and interesting ingredients with no additives. They also regularly of-fer seafood specials when available. The closest you’ll get to meat is steak and chips - a bean steak, that is, served with chunky celeriac fries. Soups, salads and freshly squeezed juices fill up the remainder of the blackboard menu, and the hip, bright interior is rather simple, uncluttered and attractive.QG-4, ul. Roosevelta 7, tel. (+48) 885 22 28 85. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (15-40zł). 6NGSW


Cafés

MONTAGTucked away in a courtyard behind Piotrkowska, Mon-tag is a simple and stylish artisan bakery and café which specialises in the art of bread making. Ten types of sweet and savoury breads make up the products available daily and small samples are laid out on the counter so that you can try before you buy. Special edition breads are also made for occasions like Easter or Valentine’s Day. The café is one long, heavy wooden table surrounded by pastel coloured plastic seating. Enjoy a cake and a coffee while watching the master baker kneading his dough behind a large glass win-dow.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 608 63 25 32. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 6BSW

NEW ZET CAFEBeing located in the legendary Łódź film school makes it the perfect place for budding young cineastes to visit. Plop yourself down, like a nonchalant Polanski, on one of the welcoming couches to enjoy their ex-quisite coffees, cakes (including Japanese and Turkish style sweetmeats), salads, sandwiches, light dishes and freshly pressed juices. Don’t forget to cast your direc-tor’s eye over the fine range of books, photo albums and CD’s as they tend to stock products which may well be difficult to find at regular retail outlets. The café also plays host to numerous talks by interesting people from the cultural scene and live music events.QG-4, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 275 59 67. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. UGBW

CAFE JULIAN TUWIM W CHATCE ECHTouting the most unique design in town this place has a nutty cottage design that features teddy bears and prams, antiques and oddities and most recently features a mural by Ryszard Paprocki (he’s a big deal). To call it original would be an understatement, though peculiarities aside there’s a lot more to this place than meets the eye, including a machine that was used to make metal Solidarność stamps. This cycle friendly complex is home to book signings and readings, concerts and exhibitions, there’s never a shortage of events to plug any conversation gaps. To top it all off you’ll fi nd an exhaustive selection of teas and coff ee - both the expected and the exotic. An added bonus: they now serve wine and liquor as well!QD-5, ul. Piotrkowska 112 (entrance from Al. Schillera), tel. (+48) 533 21 80 03, www.chatkaech.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. T6EBSW

NEW LITERA CAFEBringing together coff ee and books has always been a winning combination and Litera has been at the forefront of this niche in the city for some time now. The relaxing café decorated with a red colour scheme, giant wallpaper like vintage photos of Łódź streets and tables featuring maps of the city from various years throughout history is an extremely popular venue for bibliophiles, coff ee lovers and fans of their fantastic homemade cakes. The café also plays host to literary events, readings and group meetings.QD-6, ul. Nawrot 7, tel. (+48) 693 65 43 22. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. GW

NEW MAŁA LITERA CAFEOccupying a fi rst fl oor site in the MS2 art gallery Mała Li-tera is the perfect place for culture vultures to take refuge from the shopping hell of the Manufaktura complex. It goes without saying that, being in one of Poland’s most presti-gious modern art museums, the café is a stylish and well-conceived aff air. A good range of coff ees, teas, freshly pre-pared juices and cakes are on off er to accompany you while perusing the arty magazines. It’s also well worth having a quick scan through the bookcase fi lled with hip used books for which you only pay what you think they’re worth.Qul. Ogrodowa 17 ms2, Manufaktura, tel. (+48) 42 634 82 98.

MILI LUDZIEA small, bright, artsy café whose owners are absolutely bonkers about cakes and quiche. We had the chicory, nut, pear, honey and gorgonzola tart just minutes before an apple, onion, pop-py-seed, gorgonzola and thyme version materialised from the kitchen, which seems to be a quiche laboratory. As sweet as the variety of cakes on off er was the delightful old lady serving at the counter, bringing smiles to the faces of the young cus-tomers. The café also encourages young artists by off ering its wall space to students from the local art school. Clamber up to the mini pulpit-like area, featuring one armchair and a stand-ing lamp, if you feel like being a ‘Lonely Joe.’QG-3, ul. Sien-kiewicza 15, tel. (+48) 788 94 52 18. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. 6GSW

BREAKFAST

BREADNIAA great place to start and spend a lazy Sunday, with omelettes, fried eggs, muesli and other options, all accompanied by their fresh-baked bread of course. QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07. Breakfast served 09:00 - 13:00. (6-18zł). T6G�BSW

LE LOFTForget Disney World, Le Loft is easily the happiest place on earth. From the moment we set foot inside until we fi nished our garlicky salad, it was pure bliss (did they put Xanax in our freshly-squeezed grapefruit juice?). The staff is Poland’s least surly and most helpful, and the menu covers everything you could want in a cafe: breakfast sandwiches, pastas, obscure Czech beers, even hearty turkey sandwiches if you’re so inclined. The free wi-fi and decor supplied by young local artists in the recently expanded dining room means there’s abso-lutely no reason to go home.QG-4, ul. Tymienieckiego 20, tel. (+48) 42 661 61 75, www.leloft.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. TUGSW


Nightlife

Łódź’s commitment to hedonism is on a par with Poland’s capital. For the unadventurous a straight-forward pub crawl down ulica Piotrkowska is the way to go, though stand advised some of the best drinking dens in town are found squirrelled away in the back streets and side alleys. Follow your nose.During the warmer months the streets, particularly Pi-otrkowska, are thronged with beer gardens. Once the chillier weather starts to move in the party shifts back inside and downstairs. For the most part you’ll be paying no more than 8zł for a large beer, and bear in mind that the opening hours we list are fl exible: most bars will stay open as long as drinkers are drinking. Clubs often charge an entry fee, many of which are based on what’s on off er that night.Here are a few ideas depending on what you are looking for:

SPLURGE Swig cocktails with the beautiful people at Buddha Pub, one of the most stylish bars in the city with the clientele to match, or visit Klub Wino for a quieter night sampling wines from around the globe.

LADS Check out the gazillion strip clubs that have popped up around town, including the veteran and reigning queen Magnes which promises extreme carnal delights. Pub Ferajna has a true pub atmosphere plus one of the best selection of craft beers in town and ye ole Iron Horse is one of the manlier operations we’ve experienced in all of Poland.

COUPLES Another vote for Buddha Pub for cocktails that will make you weak at the knees. Couples that like to kick up their heels should check out the intimately-named Bedroom to shake their groove things among the city’s most stylish residents.

LOCAL One of our favorite local haunts, Chmielowa Dolina is your best bet for local micro-brews as well as the fi ner pints from Czech, Belgium and beyond. And Spinka plays up Lodz’s industrial history with a raw space that is prime for loud music and questionable dance moves.

OFF THE WALL Lodz has no shortage of curious locales. Lodz Kaliska is a legend, and the madness is hard to imagine until you ex-perience it. And newcomer Shotme serves up some of the strangest sprinkle-coated shots we’ve ever tried.

ALL NIGHTER If you’re still roaming the streets past your bedtime and still looking for some action, head back to ye ole Iron Horse for a few more guilt beers. If you’re looking to go high class in the wee small hours nothing beats the illustrious Loża Club to load you up for that champagne stumble into the sunset.

More reviews online:

lodz.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife

BARS & PUBS BUDDHA PUBBy day it’s Restauracja Gronowalski but by night this styl-ish brick building morphs into Buddha Pub, a sleek venue that promises unique cocktails to enjoy with friends. DJs sometimes make an appearance, and the stylish clientele refl ects the city’s role as the hub of Polish fashion (we recommend you dress the part). The drinks menu is al-most as dazzling as the sparkly “Buddha Bar” emblazoned on the staff uniforms, and smokers will be delighted to know the fi rst fl oor off ers a smoking room that contains its very own bar. They recently installed a large screen TV so you can watch your favorite team in style.QG-4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 673 02 90, www.buddhapub.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. UBXW

CHMIELOWA DOLINAThe unassuming shop-like frontage is easily missed, but behind the basic exterior hides a true beer monsters’ para-dise. Small breweries from around Poland and the Czech Republic rule the roost, but products from many other countries are also on off er. In fact, the beer menu is so vast that we gave up reading it after page 23! Prices start at a very reasonable 6.50zl and go up to a staggering 49zl for a bottle of Belgian Chimay Blue Grande Reserve. Snacks and grilled sausages are on standby to soak up the booze. Nice customers, knowledgeable staff and a smoking room... Perfecto Mundo!QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 123, tel. (+48) 608 36 28 56. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. BXW

FOTO CAFE 102Long before Łódź really took off 102 was considered one of the edgiest places in town - it still is, but that brings with it some dangers; namely the crowd. Populated exclu-sively with theatre fops and hipsters this is a damn good place to discuss ailing art projects, though possibly not the choice if you look upon those sorts as evil. Nevertheless, there’s no doubting this spot has atmosphere in spades. Arty photos cling to brick clad walls, with wooden tables squashed together inside a space that has a habit of turn-ing as black as pitch. Self-service bar, which brings with it further problems as boho Poles abandon all grasp of etiquette.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 502 66 01 21, www.fotocafe102.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. BXW

IRISH PUBA staple of the Łódź scene since 1994, the Irish Pub on ul. Piotrkowska is now under new ownership and big changes are afoot. Upstairs remains an old style bar with a strong na-val theme and a warm pub atmosphere, whereas the base-ment bar and restaurant has undergone a complete over-haul with a splendid mix of modern and traditional elements; private cubicles, open fi replaces and a choice of rooms hint at 19th century ‘People’s Palaces’ with an up to date twist.


NightlifeThe introduction of around 50 fi ne malts, a new season-ally changing menu, regular live music and its famous courtyard garden will guarantee its ongoing popularity.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 42 632 48 76, www.irishpub.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. EBXW

IRON HORSEThere’s lots of things we love about Iron Horse, and trump-ing the lot is the impassioned plea of one pub laureate. ‘Show me tits’ scribbles our hero on one wall. A noble entreaty, though one unlikely to materialize; Iron Horse looks and feels like a men-only pub, and when there’s not some hairy-arsed band on the main stage, musical inter-lude comes supplied in the form of Maiden and Sabbath. Decorated with whisky fl ags and signage liberated from gas stations this brash space even comes with motorbikes hanging from the girders. Prospective sportsmen will take delight in the numerous pool tables, while more studied sorts are gifted a galaxy of graffi ti to admire and decipher.QD-5, ul. Sienkiewicza/Tuwima, tel. (+48) 42 632 75 58, www.ironhorse.lodz.pl. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. ENBXW

ŁÓDŹ KALISKAThree levels of carnage inside the most famous bar in town. Featuring a slanty bar, glass fl oors and an industrial design of exposed pipes and steel stairwells this is a must-visit, with a crowd that covers all bases - from important looking expats to theatre ponces courting students half their age. Explore the ground fl oor, where the weird art minds behind ŁK have opted for a design with clearly one thing on their mind - breasts, and in particular the bare boobs of Victorian era bat-tlepigs. Kudos to that. Things aren’t any more sensible up-stairs, where potty DJs mix unmixable genres to the baying howls of an appreciative audience.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 42 630 69 55, www.klub.lodzkaliska.pl. Open 15:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:30 - 06:00. UXW

MAGAZYN 82A spacious watering hole whose slightly sombre brickwork and dark woods are brightened up by the blonde tables and back-lit bottles of colourful liquids behind the bar. In the evenings a Cheers-like atmosphere prevails, with lots of laughter and happy banter between the customers and staff . A short menu of burgers, bar snacks and salads is available once the munchies kick in, while four fl at screens beam live sports events around the bar, with the customers and staff particularly committed to watching 22 men kick-ing a ball around a patch of grass.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 82, tel. (+48) 42 633 06 43. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. GBW

NEW PINI CAFE & VINOA spacious café/bar which, although sticking to the trend for a clean and somewhat minimal interior, seems to attain a bit more of a homely feel - maybe it’s the really comfortable sofas and retro fireplace? Check the

We warmly invite you!

We always aim to meet the needs of all our guests!

For us nothing is impossible!

Tel. +48 42 632 48 76, +48 662 153 200 [email protected], www.irishpub.pl

Smoking LoungeLive music every Th ursdays,

Fridays and SaturdaysKitchen open daily until 24.00,

at weekends until 01.00


NightlifeNEW TAWERNA THESTYLACJA RUMUBeing dark as Davy Jones’ Locker just adds to the nautical/pirate atmosphere of this friendly tavern. The beer range isn’t as excit-ing as that of Ferajna, their sister bar across the courtyard, so it may be worth going for that old sea dog favourite of rum, try the Czech one dedicated to one of our hero - The Good Soldier Swejk. The menu features freshwater fi sh like silver carp or stur-geon and they’re honest enough to mention that the sea fi sh are frozen, something other restaurants will attempt to hide from you! Other options include that old pirate favourite of..er.pizza? Great to see that Polish pub rarity, a real pool table!QC-5, ul. Pi-otrkowska 79 (courtyard), tel. (+48) 662 95 36 27. Open 14:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 6UIEGSW

NEW Z INNEJ BECZKIThere ought to be a law which states that visiting beer afi cionados MUST visit this fantastic bar! Not only does it serve up a great selection of ever changing Polish and in-ternational craft beers from 13 beer taps, it’s also one of the most stunning venues to sip brews in the city. Situated in the lower level of the famous Meyer Villa (1887), the bar is entered via the beautiful multi-levelled sunken garden area and the design has taken its infl uences from classic bars of the 1920’s - 50’s. It also features an exhibition space and regular live music of a low-fi acoustic and jazzy nature.QC-4, ul. Moniuszki 6, tel. (+48) 720 13 13 13. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. GBW

blackboard to see what cakes, savoury bites and light dishes are on the menu or ask the girl at the counter; that’s what we did and her excitement about the prod-ucts on offer was so intense that we decided all the cakes were heaven sent. The menu is also pretty big on smoothies, juices and frozen yoghurts. If available try one of their concoctions using poziomki - Poland’s very popular and tiny wild strawberries.QC-4, ul. Pi-otrkowska 69, tel. (+48) 733 99 99 25. Open 07:30 - 22:00. GBW

PIOTRKOWSKA KLUB 97You won’t miss this place. From Piotrkowska you’ll notice their double-decker glass-encased café section attached to the main building. Inside, climb the stairs to fi nd a weird interior that smacks of Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Filled with red velvet the interior splits off into various diff erent rooms, thereby confusing the pretty service. Bottles of whisky line the wood-panelled walls, and with a number of concealed steps, mirrors and metal objects it’s easy to fi nd yourself knocking over drinks and decoys, attracting stares from the tutting couples. The toilet, complete with glass fl oors and double-sided mirrors, is worth the visit alone.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 65 73, www.97.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BXW

NEW PUB FERAJNAA great pub featuring a splendid range of Polish regional bottled beers at the unbelievably low price of 6zl a pop. The pub itself sticks to the well tested rules of tradition; chunky dark furniture, beer bottle label and old enamel sign décor and a collection of monetary notes from around the globe pinned up behind the bar. Being immensely popular with all types of people it actually manages to create something close to a real British pub atmosphere. Stay away if easily off ended by the K-word (the Polish equivalent of the F-word), classic rock or, the barman’s team of choice, Liver-pool FC!QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 79, tel. (+48) 662 95 36 27. Open 16:00 - 02:00. 6IGBW

SHOTME BY GOSSIPWhat happens when a 1950s-era soda fountain is stocked with liquor instead of fi zzy water? Your frothy shots arrive rimmed in sprinkles, with a cupcake on the side. Shotme specialises in unique-verging-on-bizarre shots (avoid the “monkey brain,” trust us) that turn memories of child-hood milkshakes and fruit punch into deliciously boozy beverages. Under the fl icker of a disco ball and framed pictures of busty pin-up girls Lodz’s cocktail culture is getting a major boost from bartenders stacking every-thing from lime wedges to whip cream on your over-fl owing glass. Give your bartender free license to make something creative and you won’t be disappointed.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 94, tel. (+48) 531 88 44 77, www.shotme.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. NGBW

THE BEST BAR

IN TOWN!

NOT ONLY FOR FANS!

ALL SPORTS LIVE | DRINKS & COCKTAILS | BURGERS & MORE

ul. Piotrkowska 82, 90-102 Łódźtel: +48 42 633 06 43

www.facebook.com/magazyn82


Nightlife CLUB SHISHA SAHARACeiling drapes, Persian rugs and even a burbling foun-tain lend Sahara an atmosphere of almost overwhelming cheese. We love it, and not just for sofas more resemblent of beds. Hit them on weekends, when the party stretches till daybreak in this meandering space of multiple bars and dancefl oors.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 143, tel. (+48) 516 91 08 56, www.sahara-club.com. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. XW

CZEKOLADAIt’s gotten signifi cantly harder to make fun of Czekolada, former home of leopard carpeting and other questionable design decisions, after a recent renovation has made it - dare we say - classy. Fortunately, it’s only the appearance that has grown up as the crowd is still students, and their clothes are still microscopic. We stumbled on what appeared to be a casi-no night, one of the many themes the club uses to keep things interesting (we’re curious about what “Girls, Girls, Girls” entails). Claw your way onto the new dance fl oor and embrace Czeko-lada without embarrassment.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 663 56 63 44, www.klubczekolada.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. UW

GOSSIP CLUB & LOUNGEProbably Lodz’s trendiest club evidenced by the queue of people trying (unsuccessfully) to get in. Stuck down one of the city’s many deserted courtyards off Piotrkowska, if you do manage to convince the selection to let you pass the velvet rope you’ll fi nd a surprisingly unpretentious crowd dancing to dance tunes spun by a DJ positioned in front of an lighting waterfall with the word ‘Gossip’ running through it. A stylish but compact space includes a smoking area/VIP area at the back decked out with a mix of antique and modern furniture, 3 bars and a glass ceilinged dance-fl oor, which doesn’t need a lot to fi ll it up. The post-student crowd knocking back shots and paying with plastic are friendly enough and this is a lot more relaxed than some other late night venues. Admission only charged during concerts, which require advanced tickets.QC-5, ul. Pi-otrkowska 80, tel. (+48) 531 88 44 77, www.klubgossip.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. UXW

LORDI’S CLUB & FOO FOO BARProbably Lodz’s most mainstream and most popular club located in the same courtyard as the legendary Łódź Ka-liska. A pair of DJs knock out top tunes through an excellent sound system to an appreciative crowd of good-looking people who you’ll fi nd dancing on and around a central dancefl oor surrounded by bars and sofas. The male/females ratios here are fairly balanced and along with the gorgeous bar staff this place has plenty of eye candy. Decor comes in the form of lots of exposed brick, subdued lighting and a huge chandelier that rises and falls above the dancefl oor. The parties go on long into the night and while this might not ache with the coolness of a couple of other Lodz clubs, it is defi nitely one of the most fun.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 662 36 63 66, www.lordisclub.com. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. GW

CLUBS BEDROOMPolish clubland has been enjoying a bit of an Asian make-over in recent years, and what better evidence than the ar-rival of this landmark club. Set with eastern icons, curtained off booths, and a red-lit cubic bar this place is the best news Łódź clubbing has had for a while - not that this city has been short of that. Demonstrating the city’s refusal to be outshone by Warsaw, the newly redisgned Bedroom looks a million bucks and you’ll fi nd a cast of slim-shaped hip wigglers slouched on deep sofas and doing their thing to a music policy clearly infl uenced by the more fashionable sounds coming from the orient.QC-4, ul. Moniuszki 4a, tel. (+48) 607 60 99 99, www.bedroom.com.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 04:30. EG

CABARET CLUBAll a bit more Tony Montana than Liza Minnelli, Cabaret attracts a mixed crowd of ‘happy-go-lucky’ clubbers with its variety of club nights. The programme is heavily based around luring in as many women as possible, with its regular off er of free entry and free drinks for the ‘fairer sex’. Thought of as one of the best pick-up joints in town it may be frowned upon by many as a den of iniquity, but it’s also loved by many more. For a truly unique Polish experience try to hit it on a Disco Polo night (shockingly bad home-grown Europop).QC-5, ul. Tuwima 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 78 07 30, www.cabaretlodz.com.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00 and during special events. X

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS

Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for for-eigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrifi ed to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultur-al slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pock-eted all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generos-ity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually un-heard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.


Nightlife LOŻA CLUBLush, plush and for those who are, or think they are, fl ush. Loża has certainly upped the standard for club life in the city. Situ-ated in a lovely old townhouse (former home to the Łódź Busi-ness Club) the owners have managed to maintain the feeling of grandeur of the architecture and style while simultaneously kicking the whole place into the 21st century. Part London Gen-tlemen’s club - with a cigar, whisky and billiards area - part fi n de siècle Paris house of tolerance and part heaving dance fl oor make it all sublimely decadent! Guest DJ’s, live music, fashion events and burlesque shows add to the fun. Donald Trump and Snoop Dogg sitting in leather armchairs, exchanging hairstyling tips and sipping cocktails wouldn’t look out of place here.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 85, tel. (+48) 509 80 84 25, www.lozaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. EXW

SPINKAIt’s probably a good sign when random strangers overhear you discussing a visit to Spinka and feel compelled to off er their endorsement. “Spinka is the best!! You must go there!” declared a passerby who heard of our destination. Indeed, you must. This new three-room club plays up Lodz’s industri-al history with a raw space that seems to off er something for everyone; a dance fl oor and DJ, giant bar, and even a quieter “chill out” space for those attempting actual conversations. The most intriguing aspect is the variety of art and murals that are practically everywhere you look - peek up from that urinal and you’ll see a pop-art Marilyn Monroe assessing your manhood.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 502 71 11 71. Open Fri, Sat only: 18:00 - 06:00. UXW

WINE BARS KLUB WINOUnlike beer, wine can be an intimidating drink; there’s the swirl-ing, the elaborate pouring, the use of the word “mouthfeel”. Luckily none of that perceived pretension exists at Klub Wino, a new store and wine bar that makes the beverage accessible to all. Much of that spirit is due to the jovial owner, who is for-tunately liberal with his opinions - we enjoyed hearing his take on the state of Polish wines - and happy to make recommen-dations. The wine bar space is minimalist, with just bare white walls and wood tables to keep the focus on the beverage - - a club without being a clubhouse.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 42 636 70 48, www.klubwino.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. UGBW

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT MAGNESSince IYP fi rst arrived in Łódź, this has been the sauciest night out in town, and remains just that, with a cracking line-up of girls doing their bit for international relations by dropping their knick-ers in next to no time at all. The shows here are frank and to the point, and if you can’t spring for a private dance then the bartop shows are equally revealing. All this inside a typical strip club atmo-sphere, with plenty of chrome poles and neon slashes, plus a 30zł entrance fee.QB-3, ul. Zachodnia 44, tel. (+48) 42 632 32 23, www.clubmagnes.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. XW


Manufaktura

Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renova-tion project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s (something you can read about in the Warsaw edition of In Your Pocket).The history of the site is one of fortunes made and lost, of war, nationalization and destitu-tion. What you see before you was once a series of facto-ries – all producing various textiles – that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century. Designed by Hilary Majewski, a graduate of St Petersburg University, the mills were built in red-brick industrial style, incorporating the oc-casional Art Nouveau fl ourish. They were the property of Izrael Poznański, a Jewish merchant who saw the need for high quality textiles on the eastern markets of Russia, Japan and China. As Lódz was at the time the most westerly city on the Russian Empire, Poznański was able to match west-ern textile expertise and industrial practices with limitless access to eastern markets. It was a winning combination, and one that made him a fortune and put Łódź on the map.

“Łódź was waking up, the fi rst yelling factory whistle pierced the quiet of the early morning, then in all parts of the city oth-ers began to spring up ever more raucously and bawled in hoarse voices like a choir of monstrous roosters crowing their metal throats the call to work. The huge factories, whose long black bulks and slender chimney necks loomed in the dark-ness, in the fog and rain they were slowly waking up, belching fl ames of fi re, exhaling clouds of smoke.”

- Władysław Reymont, The Promised Land

THE PASTThe fi rst Manufaktura loom began spinning in 1852. Real growth came about during the period 1872-1892, by which time more than 80,000 spindles spread over 12 sepa-rate factories were churning out high-quality textiles at a rate unmatched anywhere in Europe at the time. Poznański adored luxury - when asked what style he wished one of his residences to be built in he allegedly declared ‘All of them, I can aff ord them all!’ The palaces he built for himself all over the city are testament to his fondness for extravagance, but he was also considered a visionary employer.Łódź’s rise to industrial prominence in the second half of the 19th century saw the city transform from a sleepy back-water into a gritty metropolis bursting with red brick facto-ries and a horizon crowned with smoking chimney stacks. As the population exploded suburbs sprang up, including poverty stricken rat mazes like Bałuty and Chojny. The more conscientious factory owners took it on themselves to build tenements to house their workers; Izrael Poznański provid-ed 1,086 apartments for 4,043 people. Designed by Hilary Majewski, one of the architects behind Poznański’s award winning textile factory (it snatched the Bronze Medal at the 1878 World Exhibition in Paris), many of these shadowy housing projects still exist, and exploring their dark court-yards and fl aking corridors is like a step back in time. Take a look at how the proletariat used to live by peering into the buildings that stand on ul. Ogrodowa 24 and 26.Their workers may have been squashed into tene-ments, but make no mistake their boss lived the high life. Poznański had the sort of egocentric, hyper-wealthy life-style associated with modern day oligarchs, and his palaces and mansions found around town are testimony to this. His HQ on Ogrodowa 15 was the benchmark of fl ash, and stacked with priceless treasures and frequently the home of high society functions. Designed by Adolf Seligson the L-shaped structure originally held a 770m2 winter garden topped with a glass roof, as well as landscaped gardens out back. As most other industrialists of the age, Poznański had his residence built right next to his factory, allowing him the opportunity to watch his workforce marching to work each morning.The man died in 1900, wealthy beyond imagination, and the ownership of the company passed to his sons. He is buried in an enormous mausoleum in the Jewish Cemetery (some say the largest Jewish tomb in the world), a fi tting testament to the true king of bling. Manufaktura continued to fl ourish, with many of its wares being shipped far and wide to new markets in America and the Far East, though the inter-war period marked the start of a decline. Pro-duction continued throughout most of World War II, after which it was nationalised, and renamed Poltex.The emphasis on quality was replaced by an emphasis on quantity, with most of the goods produced here - primarily cotton - being shipped off to the Soviet Union. The death of the Warsaw Pact trading block COMECON left it without any real market, factories closed and production fell. The last textile worker left the plant - by then a rundown, half-derelict wreck - in 1997.


Manufaktura

THE PRESENTFrench developer Apsys bought the site in 2000. Work be-gan on transforming the crumbling mills into a multifac-eted cultural extravaganza in 2003. The opening of the site on May 17, 2006 was therefore the culmination of more than fi ve years of planning and construction. The results are stunning.

The original 19th century brick buildings remain the fo-cal point of the complex, having been entirely renovated: some brick by brick, with only the chimney stacks which once dominated the horizon missing. Director David Lynch was so impressed he shot part of his fi lm, ‘Inland Empire’, on the premises. In all, more than 90,000m2 of red brick buildings have been restored and completely refi tted. An equal amount of new buildings - mainly the shopping cen-tre - has gone up alongside, while commie leftovers from the Poltex factory days have been demolished.

The restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to fi le through every day on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the project’s ground zero: the Rynek (main square). In summer, this place really comes into its element, with a phalanx of beer gardens and an ar-tifi cial beach.

The natural reaction to Manufaktura is to be staggered; covering an area of 54 football pitches the complex spans, in total, over 90,000m2, and makes use of 45,000 square metres of restored original brickwork, fi fty kilometres of electric cables and over a kilometre of metal framework. And what was already impressive on opening day has grown more impressive still. Added over the years has been the award winning Museum of the Factory, Art Mu-seum - ms² which leads the line as one of Poland’s top galleries, and the Experymentarium, easily the fi nest mu-seum of its genre in the country. Better still, fi nally, the city has a hotel worthy of its status as one of Poland’s key metropolises. That’s the andel’s and it’s been well worth the wait.

SHOPPINGFilled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to the otherwise red brick architecture. Over 9,000 m2 of wood fl ooring has been laid, and the mall has been split into four themes - industrial, cinema, design and textile - so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the crèche found just off the Rynek, close to the Bella Napoli restaurant.Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfi ger, H&M, Timberland and a newly launched Adidas superstore. In total 306 retail units are occupied, with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, EMPiK and EURO RTV AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to fi nd elsewhere, let alone under one roof. If you’re not ready to put your trust in Łódź’s restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do better yourself. Your fi rst point of call should be either Kuchnie Świata (fi rst fl oor) or Toscana, right next door. In the former fi nd a collection of hard-to-fi nd goodies that range from Israeli fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across the world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice. Toscana is a similarly upmarket deli-catessen, this one selling produce straight from Italy. Even more impressive mind is the Alma supermarket, a haven that features peso sauces imported from Liguria, hams courtesy of Krakowski Kredens, countless European cheeses and over 200 global coff ee brands.

© Manufaktura

© Manufaktura


ManufakturaAfter, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar. Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the place for afi cionados to test cigars imported from Cuba. Other stores to watch for include the Body Shop, which features a range of eco-friendly soaps, as well as an Apple iSpot store for all your Mac needs.Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll fi nd all manner of stores including a cobbler, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The arrival of much-hyped Magda Gessler-brand restaurants Polka and Marcello is also a sure sign that Manufaktura has arrived. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance.

ENTERTAINMENT ARENA LASER GAMESLaser-quest style entertainment inside an indoor labyrinth apparently fi lled with ‘surprises, traps and special eff ects’. A modernisation has moved the game to the fi rst fl oor next to Experymentarium and upped the space to 350 m2.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.arena-lasery.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 10-29zł.

CENTRUM WSPINACZKOWE STRATOSFERA (CLIMBING CENTRE STRATOSFERA)The highest climbing wall in Łódź weighs in at eleven metres in height, and over 500 square metres of climbing space. The walls here can also be adjusted to suit the indi-vidual, from greenhorn rookie to mountain ace.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 90, www.stratosfera.org. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 6-30zł. N

CINEMA CITYA state-of-the-art 14 screen cinema with all the trimmings.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 14-31zł.

EXPERYMENTARIUMWhoa, here’s a museum that makes science fun, and in a way that rather than ordering you to ‘keep away from the glass’, actively encourages visitors to ‘push’, ‘touch’ and ‘en-ter’. The experiments visitors get to play around with are the brainchild of Polish scientists and students, and revolve around ideas of light, sound, anatomy, nature and new discoveries. The space takes up 800m2 of the Manufaktura complex, and also features a wing designated for tempo-rary exhibits from Polish and European institutions. Patrons include Łódź University and the Łódź Technical University. Your visit should take approximately 80 minutes, during which time you’ll wander a large open space fi lled with exhibitions. Currently the two main exhibits are Mysteries of Physics, which includes mad light experiments, a ‘cosmic tunnel’, an area devoted to developing your senses of smell, hearing and touch without using your vision; and the new exhibit Risk, which delves into why we take the risks we do

and how humans rate the various risks in their lives. Always ones to keep on-the-ball, there’s also a constant twirl of temporary exhibits coming through the place. Big changes are in the works in October which usually means a bump in ticket prices. Check their website for details.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.experymentarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 15/12zł. U

GRAKULAFind three pool tables, 28 bowling lanes, a dance fl oor and, best of all, a licensed bar.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 40 52, www.grakula.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Billards 9zł per half hour; bowling 8-15zł per game per person, 45-80zł per hour.

IMAXFully air-conditioned, and allegedly one of most hi-tech IMAX cinemas in the world.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.kinoimax.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 20-31zł.

SHOPPING EMPIKAs the home of Poland’s famed fi lm school Lodz can inspire visitors to pick up Polański’s Chinatown or Wajda’s Katyń (though not instantly, expect a 3-4 day wait) after a wan-der through the Museum of Cinematography. Empik also off ers your best change at English-language periodicals. Also at ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria Łódzka).QMall, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 15, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

KUCHNIE ŚWIATAA lifeline for expats and contract workers, Kuchnie is noth-ing less than an Aladdin’s Cave of hard-to-fi nd world food. Soft drinks, salsas, sauces, chocolate, cereals and raw in-gredients from all corners of the world.QMall, tel. (+48) 42 631 17 09, www.kuchnieswiata.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

OLD HAVANA CIGARS & ACCESSORIESWide selection of cigars, imported direct from the home of the world’s fi nest rollers, Havana. There is a massive range of Cohibas, Montecristos and the like, and the friendly, knowledgeable staff will help cigar beginners fi nd their way through the endless choice.QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 35 21, www.oldhavana.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

TIMBERLANDTop quality clothing and footwear for the outdoorsy type.QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 83 33, www.timberland.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

TOSCANAA Italian deli theme with a full range of cold meats, wine, pastas, conserves and olive oils to choose from.QMall, tel. (+48) 515 18 22 58, www.toscana.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.


Manufaktura

SIGHTSEEING ART MUSEUM - MS² (MS² - MUZEUM SZTUKI)A very impressive space located in a building that once housed a 19th century weaving plant. Home to both tem-porary and permanent exhibitions, the current visiting exhibition on display is The Art Collection of the XX and XXI century.The rest of the museum is home to more than 400 works of contemporary art and includes artists like Pablo Picasso, Tamasz Kasasz and Paul Klee. There’s also a constant cycle of other temporary exhibitions. English translations and pamphlets available plus the art cafe and a bookshop.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 6/3zł. Thu free for all exhibits.

MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY (MUZEUM FABRYKI)Of all the museums in Łódź you won’t fi nd any that are bet-ter geared towards the foreign visitor. All displays are com-plimented with thorough English explanations that put the majority of Polish museums to shame. Occupying a second fl oor space next to Manufaktura’s multiplex cinema this spot is more than just a diversion from your day’s shopping. From the moment you pay your admission fee it’s a trip back in time. This small but perfectly formed museum off ers a com-plete history of the Manufaktura complex, complete with 4 working looms, dioramas and even a tiny cinema showing black and white factory scenes. Its packed full of peculiar facts, and a look at the boards reveals untold trivia - for instance, the story behind one of the original architects of the complex, Dawid Rosenthal, who was shot by militant workers back in 1910. The photo montages off er a vivid trip through history, as well as moments of amusement; check the pictures of the factory’s sports teams and bands. Take the trip up to the viewing terrace (an extra 2/1zł) to get a birds eye view of the factory. Make sure to exit through gift shop, which features some English language books on the subject if you want to read more about this fascinating place.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/5zł, family ticket 13zł. For an English speaking guide reservations must be made at least a week in advance and will cost 75zł. N

RESTAURANTS AMERICAN BULLAn American restaurant set in one of the renovated, free-standing buildings just off the square. The menu and the service are as close to American as we’ve found in the city with an excellent choice of burgers, ribs, fries and tradition-al American sides. We’ll save special mention for the steaks which we got to enjoy with a free beer by visiting during the afternoon. Cooked as ordered, served with excellent fries and fried vegetables on a wooden board and abso-lutely delicious. This is defi nitely a place we’ll be back to and well worth recommending.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 21, www.american-bull.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (25-80zł). UEGSW

www.arena-lasery.pl

www.experymentarium.pl


Manufaktura

TRUE AMERICAN RESTAURANT IN THE CENTRE OF LODZ (MANUFAKTURA MARKET

SQUARE). STEAKS FROM THE BEST BEEF, REAL BURGERS, A VERY LARGE

SELECTION OF ALCOHOLS. COME JOIN US!

A GOOD ATMOSPHERE, NO MATTER WHAT STATE YOU’RE IN

TEL. +48 (42) 633-80-21

GALERIA ŁÓDZKA ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23

Tel. +48 42 239 55 55

MANUFAKTURAul. Jana Karskiego 5, lok. R-16

Tel.+48 42 634 00 60

www.hanasushi.pl

THE BEST SUSHI RESTAURANTS

IN ŁÓDŹ

SUSHI DELIVERED TO YOUR HOTEL ROOM.

ANATEWKASister restaurant of the highly recommend Anatewka found on Łódź’s ul. 6 Sierpnia, and though this place isn’t nearly as good it’s still a decent stop when you’re Manufaktura bound. Set on two levels this place has menorahs aplenty, lacy frills and stirring Jewish children’s choirs singing along to a constant cycle of Klezmer music.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (23-69zł). 6EXSW

BAWEŁNAOccupying a grand corner spot in the Manufaktura com-plex, Bawelna serves up hearty doses of quality - mainly Italian dishes at surprisingly good prices. The interior is well fi tted out with the de rigueur, neo-industrial/rustic look and the ground level features an open kitchen (shoot me now). Head upstairs to a similarly designed area which appears more spacious, airy and features a nice bar. Try one of their signature cocktails which blends some pretty unique and intriguing concoctions of fl avours. They seem to have successfully brought the cool ambience of some of the OFF Piotrkowska venues to the rather plush Manufaktura.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 637 20 88, www.bawelna-lodz.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (18-50zł). TBXSW

BELLA NAPOLIItalian-run place, and it shows. It’s all done well and prop-erly, and there are seriously good things going on in the kitchen. Pizza and pasta are the forte here, with the home-made sauces worth the visit alone. The clean and clinical interiors buzz with custom no matter what time of day.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 76 50, www.bella-napoli.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-55zł). UBXSW

BIERHALLEA blinding beer hall with outstanding lager that’s so good you’ll want to take it away - and the good news is that you can. Find the fi ve house beers available to go in either nifty little bottles or fi ve litre barrels. But there’s more to Bierhalle than beer alone, and the food is on no accounts second fi ddle. Thump someone with the giant picture menu and they’ll see stars for week, though don’t resort to that sort of act without fi rst ordering - the tortillas are pretty good, though our favourite is the sausage platter, served with an accompanying wheelbarrow of chips. A great place indeed, with both booze and food done inside a neo-industrial inte-rior replete with giant vats that bubble with beer.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 03 76, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (21-48zł). UGBSW

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Manufaktura GALICJAA slightly Laura Ashley take on the familiar ‘old Polish farmhouse’ look makes Galicja look more fresh and clean than most of the competition. The menu sticks to tradi-tion with a few innovative twists; hearty servings of soups, pierogi and meat dishes. Our schnitzels were the size of a fried frisbee and the potatoes came coated with a tasty, slightly sweet sauce/dressing composed of various seeds, greenery, lardons and onions. Friendly, smiley staff and possibly the most attentive and genuinely interested man-ager we have yet encountered. It’s also the fi rst eatery in the Manufaktura complex to make use of its huge cellar area with a bar serving up eight regional beers and regu-lar folk concerts.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 55, www.galicjamanufaktura.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (15-35zł). TVEGBSW

GANESHGanesh takes their successful Indian formula from Pi-otrkowska Street to the heart of Manufaktura, bringing their creamy palak paneer and spicy curries with them. Shoppers can rejuvenate with crispy samosas inside a new two-storey interior that is all shiny sleekness and peppy Bol-lywood grooves. Also at (C-4) ul. Piotrkowska 69.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 12 13, www.ganesh.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). VGBSW

GREEN WAYFast food doesn’t always clog the arteries, and Greenway are the proof. Serving up a range of salads and samosas this nationwide enterprise is little less than the McDonald’s of healthy eating, and highly recommended to anyone watching both waist and wallet.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 632 16 96, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (9-18zł). TUGSW

Drewnowska 58 C

Tel. (+48) 42 630 09 99www.frenchpotato.pl

FrenchPotato

DELIGHT RESTAURANTIt’s the best hotel in town, so it’s no surprise the house restaurant is staking a claim as the best eatery around. Set to a neo-industrial background Delight has a naff name but a chef who is clearly a star in the making. It’s vast size mean empty seats are par for the course, but that’s no reflection on the culinary talent on show. Expect perfectly presented, edgy cuisine that tastes every bit as good as it looks.QB-1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s Hotel Łódź), tel. (+48) 42 279 10 00, www.andelslodz.com. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 17:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 17:00 - 22:00. (14-67zł). TUGSW

NEW FRENCH POTATOFrench Potato does a good job of converting the humble pomme de terre into something quite interesting. Their in-novative baked potato fi llings are generally infl uenced by French regional dishes and include the Alsace - smoked sausage, onions, cream and salad or the adventurous Perig-ord - chicken stomachs, goose and mushrooms. Potato cakes are also used to maximum eff ect with their burg-ers appearing between two potato cakes rather than the standard bun, some folks may well consider this a work of genius while others will simply roll their eyes in horror.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 09 99, www.frenchpotato.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (22-45zł). TUGBSW French Potato in Manufaktura Photo by Mat Fahrenholz


Manufaktura HANA SUSHIHana Sushi are one of the most successful sushi chains in the country, which makes it no surprise that you’ll find it at Manufaktura. Very competently prepared su-shi sets, served by pleasant black-robed staff in a mod-ern, clean cut interior. Also at (D-7) ul. Galeria Łódzka.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 00 60, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (35-50zł). UVGBS

HOT SPOONThis delicious Thai venture holds the honour of delivering the most mouth-searing meal we’ve had in Poland (they’re not kidding about the ‘hot’ in Hot Spoon). That came in the form of chicken pad Thai, but the menu is awash in curry and noodle dishes that promise an equally fi ery explo-sion in your mouth. The decor is sleek and straight from the Thai restaurant playbook, while the service is up there with the best - - our waiter seemed to know exactly when we’d be requesting that extra glass of water to douse the fl ames.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 633 90 90, www.hotspoon.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-50zł). VGBSW

LA VENDECouples love La Vende, a violet/vanilla spot festooned with frills, shrubs and creaky wood fittings. Designed by a distinctly feminine hand this little gem has a healthy menu of salads and suchlike, as well as a wine list that really goes the distance. They’ve got the food right, they’ve got the atmosphere right; what’s keeping you? Also at (I-4) ul. Elsnera 23.QRynek, tel. (+48) 512 12 07 67, www.lavende.eu. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (20-70zł). TUEG�BSW

MCDONALD’SAs you’d expect, though sadly no breakfast. Also at Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria Łódzka), ul. Mickiewicza 5 (C-7), ul. Piotrkowska 116 (C-6) and ul. Piotrkowska 30/32 (C-3).QFood Court, tel. (+48) 602 41 64 36, www.mcdonalds.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-19zł). TUGSW

MEGA BURGERQuite frankly, even a McD’s cheeseburger would look MEGA in this teensy-weensy joint! The difference be-ing that they make up their own burgers and bake their own buns on site. No limp matchstick fries here, all burg-ers come with chunky Belgian style fries and there’s a good range of sauces on offer. The interior pushes the tacky American fast food look to the limit with lots of red gloss, plastic signs and some dubious artwork - if Marilyn really looked like that we doubt JFK would have even touched her with a barge pole! Reasonably good, reasonably filling, reasonably cheap and that’s about it really.QRynek, tel. (+48) 662 10 69 36. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (5-25zł). VGBS

MEIMEIA modern spin on a traditional style Chinese restaurant with a calming interior decorated in shades of grey and dominant black. The menu itself is a reasonable list of standard Chi-nese dishes. For something a bit diff erent we suggest you give the fi sh and vegetables stewed in beer a go. A slight air of disappointment prevailed as the shrimp dim sum arrived and didn’t resemble the elegant presentation portrayed in the menu photo. Mind you, all was forgiven after sampling the near perfect dumplings. A special mention goes to the black clad, professional and perfectly amiable waiting staff .QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 636 31 30, www.mei-mei.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-34zł). T6UGBW

NORTH FISHFish and frytki served in the closest Łódź has to a fi sh and chip shop. The food court location should serve as no de-terrent for those wanting their fi ll of supremely cheap brain food.QFood Court, www.northfi sh.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (6-25zł). TUGS

RICKSHAWS

A relatively recent phenomena, rickshaws were fi rst introduced to Łódź in 1993 and today you’ll fi nd over a hundred pedaling breathlessly up and down ulica Pi-otrkowska. Most will operate on a fi xed fee basis – any journey, whether it be from one end of the 4km street to the other, or just a short one minute trip, will cost 5zł (10zł for two people), though that will not stop enter-prising drivers from trying to take advantage of foreign accents. To save on embarrassing situations it’s recom-mended to agree on a price before hopping on board. Rickshaws are permitted to stray off the main street, Piotrkowska, and can be driven anywhere where a nor-mal bicycle is permitted. Do be warned though drivers will often use straying off centre as an excuse to jack the fare right up. If you’re looking to make a quick buck then there’s nothing stopping you from having a crack at the rickshaw industry yourself – no special license is necessary, though you should note that city offi cials do occasionally inspect the bikes.

Ranging from rusty-looking contraptions, to stream-lined eff orts with roofs, rickshaws present the most economic way of tearing down Piotrkowska and are as much favoured by locals as they are by tourists. Driven by everyone from super-fi t brutes, to knackered old barfl ies, you’ll fi nd rickshaws operating throughout the year no matter what the weather may be. Pedestrians should note that many of these drivers have a kamikaze attitude towards their job; if you hear a bicycle bell tin-kling close by jump onto the nearest curb.

Łódź on your mobile: m.inyourpocket.com


Manufaktura

PIZZA HUTPizza for the non-discerning masses. Ten out of ten for con-sistency.QRynek, tel. (+48) 713 86 15 51, www.pizzahut.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (10-43zł). TUGBSW

POLKACelebrity chef Magda Gessler strikes again, this time in her native cuisine. Polka, which is so awash in poppy-themed décor you won’t know where to look (the poppies even climb the ceiling and grip the staff ’s uniforms), is over-the-top in typical Gessler fashion. But another Gessler hallmark is reliably good food, and here Polka similarly delivers. Stylish Polish dishes fl y out of the kitchen and in-clude hits like crispy duck served with beetroot and even traditional bigos stew (the menu calls it a “noble” dish). And while meatballs and fi sh sticks might not be strictly Polish, the kids menu gets a good workout at this family-friendly venue.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 30, www.restauracjapolka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (12 -100zł). TUGSW

RESTAURACJA MARCELLOMarcello is a classy and elegant restaurant decked out in muted white and blue stripes with stills from Italian-themed fi lms like Roman Holiday covering the walls. Those familiar with Gessler’s Italian restaurant Gar in Warsaw will feel at home with the menu, which handles all the Italian staples like pasta, risotto and antipasti quite well. The true gold-mine here is the pizza, and the Apple Pizza works magic with a savory mix sweet sauce and delicate crust.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 634 05 31, www.restauracjamarcello.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-62zł). TG�BSW

SOLO PIZZAAnother place that takes its origins from Piotrkowska. If you like the prototype then you’ll love their Manufaktura ven-ture, a good standard pizzeria in the red brick surrounds of Manufaktura’s square.QFood Court, tel. (+48) 42 632 49 49, www.solopizza.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (13-35zł). UGSW

SUBWAYThere’s a few things that simply confound Poles - form-ing an orderly queue for one, making a decent sarnie the other. So three cheers for Subway, a global kingpin in the

sandwich sector. Fresh ingredients served on bread made on-site.QFood Court, tel. (+48) 42 631 01 11, www.subway.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (7-19zł). UGSW

TAWERNA PEPE VERDEThe decor of this three-level eatery can only be described as nautical, from the bar shaped like a boat to the life rings, sails and ships’ wheels pinned to every available surface. The staff gets in on the act with little sailor caps and serve up a range of Italian inspired dishes like pizza, spaghetti and seafood dishes. Everything proves to be tasty while at the same time leaving plenty in your purse to blow across the Rynek in the mall.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 98, www.tawerna.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00; Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. From November open 11:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (12-50zł). VGBSW

CAFES COFFEEHEAVENThere’s already a full-service Coff eeheaven stand inside Manufaktura, but if you’re looking to enjoy the Rynek with a latte in one hand and brownie in the other, this new lo-cation off ers ideal people-watching and spurts of the kid-magnetizing fountains.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 630 05 99, www.coff eeheaven.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T6UGSW

MAX ICE & COFFEEFor those who don’t mess about with anything but the best. A mind-boggling array of ice creams served inside an informal interior that’s as popular with families as it is with girly teens giggling at text messages. Also at Rynek (Open 11:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00).QMall, tel. (+48) 42 634 85 84, www.maxice.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TUGSW

PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY WEDELPoland’s fi rst and most famous confectionary outlet, op-erating since 1851. The hot chocolate is their principal claim to fame, though their off erings extend to cakes and confectionary that have most Poles salivating at their very mention.QRynek, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. TUBSW

NIGHTLIFE OSCAR’S BARA strange bar is Oscar’s, not least because the actual bar feels so disattached from everything around; you’ll fi nd it in the lobby of the Andel’s, with no seats by the counter and well removed from those who want to use it. Fortunately that’s not a problem: the staff are eagle-eyed enough to ensure your glass is never empty, while the post-modern design is like space ship meets factory. The cocktails are pretty decent as well, and could eas-ily wipe your memory clean.QB-1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s Hotel Łódź), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 24, www.andelslodz.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. UGW

MS2 Modern Art Gallery at Manufaktura Mat Fahrenholz


Street Art

The recent growth of street art in Poland may not be that diffi cult to put in a historical context as the country has a great tradition of using urban wall space for all manner of creative ideas. The 1960’s - 70’s saw vast wall spaces used for the advertising of communist-era state-run companies and the current vogue for all things retro means that the surviving examples are now being re-assessed and revered as important graphic design visions of the time. Plenty of wall art from this time can still be seen around Łódź, from the ghost-like faded text on the gable-end wall of a build-ing at the end of ul. Traugutta (C-4) to the relatively well preserved graphic painting of a giant butterfl y advertising the state-run Pewex shops (where imported goods could be purchased with US dollars) at ul. Sienkiewicza 21 (C-4). It’s well worth keeping an eye out for these fading rem-nants of the city’s not so distant past.

Over the last few years the somewhat gloomy streets of Łódź have come to life with the addition of numerous enormous and brightly-coloured murals. The project to

turn Łódź into an open-air permanent art gallery was ini-tiated by the Urban Forms Foundation back in 2009 and their aim is to improve the current image of Łódź through supporting and promoting independent artistic projects in the city’s public spaces. With the support of city council, the Foundation has so far overseen the completion of 30 large scale murals by some of Poland’s classiest street artists, like local heroes the Etam Crew and the Gdynia-born painter M-City. They have also invited some of the world’s leading street artists to leave their permanent mark on the city, so you can see work by Brazilian twins Os Gemeos, the cubist inspired French artist Remed and many other international stars of the scene. If you are keen to see all the murals the foundation has supported, a great way of doing this is to contact them via the Urban Forms website (urbanforms.org) and ask about their private bus tours of the city’s fabu-lous mural art.

Wandering around the city you are also bound to stumble across some rather fi ne and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts. We particularly like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town. A nice one featuring the profi le of renowned Polish poet and writer Julian Tuwim, who was born in Łódź, can be seen on the corner of ul. Sienkiewicza and ul. Traugutta (C-4).

Tuwim silhouette, Ul. Sienkiewicza

Corner of ul. Narutowicza and ul. Uniwersytecka

Ul. Roosevelta

Ul. Legionow 19


Off Piotrkowska

While Manufaktura is undoubtedly the rich and sanitised version of the ultimate shopping experience in post-in-dustrial Łódź. OFF Piotrkowska is an altogether diff erent, unique and alternative proposition.

Situated just off ul. Piotrkowska (hence the name) between numbers 138-140, the complex has taken over the beauti-ful old cotton mill buildings of the former Ramisch factory (C-6). Originally from Czechoslovakia, the Ramisch fam-ily relocated to Łódź in the 1830’s and in 1850 purchased the fi rst plot of land on which construction of the factory began; adjoining plots were purchased as the empire ex-panded. By 1909 the factory, in the very heart of the city, was fi ring on all cylinders. Production continued right up until 1990, after which the buildings and their rich heritage were all but forgotten about and the area fell into a sad and dilapidated state.

Towards the end of 2010 the massive potential of the area was spotted by the young and very enthusiastic artistic vi-sionaries of the city, and a whole host of bars, clubs, alterna-tive music venues, studios, independent design companies and publishing houses started appearing in the area.

Reminiscent of similar places in London or Berlin, OFF con-tinues to attract new and off -beat local businesses with their pulse on current trends and fashions. The past, the present and the future all coexist magically without the need for the kind of massive investment which would ul-timately strip the place of its ramshackle glamour. On the makeover point, it should be mentioned that the current developer/investor has already drawn up plans for a total upgrading and renovation of the area in the style of a mini-Manufaktura; here’s hoping that never goes ahead!

To enter this gem of a place, head through the gate in the ugly sandstone coloured wall at ul. Piotrkowska 138 (C-6) into the large space of wasteland, which looks like a cleared minefi eld, pass Asian fast food huts, the drunken down-and-outs and head towards the huge red brick buildings, you can’t really miss them! This is the alternative beating heart of the city which, unsurprisingly enough, also plays host to the fantastic Fotofestiwal every June. NOT to be missed.

RESTAURANTS DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBAAn artisan bakery, café and restaurant all rolled into one. Slick, raw and modern rustic interior with a slightly more upmarket clientele than the other OFF venues, we lost count of the little Polo player logos on customers’ clothing! Very reasonably priced fresh and colourful fare, including a range of trendy sandwiches, salads, burgers and steaks. A few ‘one-pot’ curry dishes are also available although purists may well have a seizure when it arrives at their table with a ciabatta instead of a naan! Waiting staff were stressed, overworked and appeared to have given up the ghost. QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 672 80 01, www.drukarniaoff .pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (12-95zł). 6UGBSW

MEG MUThis dark, cosy and richly coloured African bar and restau-rant certainly takes the prize for the most outlandish menu in the area. Chef Rene, who hails from the Congo, presents a short menu of food and drinks derived from a few African countries. Well worth biting the bullet and trying some-thing that you thought would never work together as a dish, for example Mafe - a beef stew cooked in spinach and hazelnut spread served with banana. It was ‘slushy’ to look at but proved to be a unique and tasty surprise. The drinks list includes some magical potions like palm juice, a ginger drink and a few shockingly expensive Nigerian and Ugan-dan beers (you can thank Polish import duties for that!). The African music and chirpy staff add to making Meg Mu a truly jolly experience.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 603 11 77 93. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (9-29zł). UGBSW

MITMI RESTOBARIt’s not often that one ventures into an eatery in Poland at 17:00 and has to squeeze in at the bar because every table is occupied, but that was exactly the case at MITMI (pro-nounced ‘Meat Me’). Roast pork and beef are the stars of the menu here, and although not a burger bar, the locals

Photo: Zosia Wawrzyniak

Photo: Zosia Wawrzyniak


Off Piotrkowskaaccuse their juicy patties of being the best in town. The drinks list is as long as an orangutan’s arm and includes a few good ciders. In keeping with many ‘OFF’ venues, MITMI features an attractive semi-industrial interior with lots of raw brickwork, and metal lamps that you may have already seen elsewhere. Gold stars to the attentive staff , who kept the whole show running smoothly even though the place was mobbed.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 508 52 35 66. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (22-50zł). 6UGBW

SPÓŁDZIELNIAFirst impressions of a 21st century take on the traditional Polish milk bar and tempered by the realisation that the 1970s geometric designs are mixed with rustic furnish-ings and a healthy dose of industrial fi ttings. Astonish-ingly, it doesn’t look like a mess of miss-matched design components, and everything blends seamlessly to cre-ate a lovely space. Bury your head in the wrapping pa-per menu and the grub on off er is also pretty exciting; a range of snacky appetizers, salads galore and mains, try the salmon marinated in bourbon served with a celeriac and kale puree. Top everything off with a full range of real beers, trendily labelled soft drinks and a nice little shop area selling local and imported healthy foodstuff s (including a weekly Eco Market every Saturday 10:00-16:00). A winner!QC-6, ul. Piotrkowskiej 138/140, tel. (+48) 608 20 25 72, wwww.spoldzielnia-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). T6GBSW

TARI BARI BISTROAdhering to the ‘no compromise’ whitewashed, white tiled, bleached wood spacious and airy look. Tari Bari is popular with the quiet, arty crowd and there seems to be a lot of deep soul searching, beard stroking and adjustment of Ray-bans going on. It’s a great place for folks who don’t like to feel like they are eating and drinking in a Tokyo underground train during rush hour. During our visit the calmness was emphasised by some of the quietest plinky-plonky ambient background music known to mankind. With an ever-changing blackboard menu of healthy grub including salads, soups and quiches, full marks to the bar-maid who listened intently to the precise and exacting espresso demands of yours truly and then produced per-fection! QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 664 93 32 71. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. T6GBW

CAFES SPALENI SŁOŃCEMUnpretentious and care-free, Spaleni Słońcem (‘Burnt By the Sun’) has a great Kreuzberg feel to it. The industrial fi xtures and fi ttings were bought from another one of the local textile mills and installed to create a genuine factory feel to the bar. The bar itself is made up from a huge work-shop chest of drawers and the wall murals, by local art star

Jan Jubaal Wasiński, are a contemporary take on the realist paintings of 19th century Polish artist Józef Chełmoński. The beer menu includes a range of Łódź Brewery electric soups and it’s worth trying the porter, but sip with restraint; it comes in at a hefty 9.5% alc. In the summer months you can sprawl out on the outdoor palette-built platform and really get burnt by the sun! QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 721 29 87 33. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Mon, Wed, Sun 14:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. 6BXW

NIGHTLIFE GANIMEDESOFF, as it stands, really does have something for everyone. This LGBT pub and sauna has been around in various guises and revamps since 1999. It features regular drag shows, karaoke and a whole host of specialist nights and parties for those who know what they want and ain’t afraid of fi nd-ing it. The sauna room features the likes of ‘naked’ and ‘bear’ events. We can’t think of anything more harrowing than sharing a sauna with a bear, unless it’s sharing a duck pond with a shark. A second entrance from Roosevelta 10 is eas-ier to reach and features a non-guarded car park. Qul. Pi-otrkowska 140, tel. (+48) 662 327 144, www.ganimedes.net. Pub open 20:00 - 03:00. Sauna open 15:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. X

MEBLOTEKA YELLOWWe like Mebloteka very much indeed, with its laid back hodge podge of mismatched 1970’s tables and chairs, a gallery and a design shop all battling it out for a bit of space amongst the chattering and excitable clientele. As well as being popular with the locals it also attracts lots of foreigners who live in the city and the number of languag-es overheard being spoken by the customers makes for a great international atmosphere in the heart of Łódź. Cakes, coff ees, juices and a short menu of mainly salads are avail-able but be sure to check out the small brewery beers on off er, including the all-natural Browar Zamkowy beers from Silesia. Go easy on the booze though, as you WILL end up buying most of the cool stuff from the design shop.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 504 34 40 32. Open 13:00 - 24:00. GBW

Photo: Mat Fahrenholz

Łódź SightseeingEXPLORE THE SIGHTS BEFORE THEY DIM THE LIGHTS IN

THE CITY OF FILM AND CINEMA

Phooto to by by PP. WojWojW tycyctyczkazkakaak .. CC. Couourourouo testesy oy oy oy f CCityityityityty Promoomoomoomomoomotiotiotitioti nn Onnn ffi ce, Municipality of Łf Łf Łf Łf ódźóó .


The industrialist Łódź is most famous for however is none other than Izrael Poznański, and his palace (B-1, ul. Ogrodowa 15) is now home to the Museum of the City of Łódź - an unmissable chase through the history of the city, as well as a medley of items and artworks that once belonged to Poznański. His factory has since been devel-oped into the Manufaktura shopping and leisure com-plex, and it’s here you’ll fi nd the offi cial museum of the site (B-1, ul. J. Karskiego 5). Poznański was Jewish by birth and you can visit his fearsome mausoleum (the biggest Jewish tomb in the world) at Europe’s largest Jewish cemetery (G-2, ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna). Founded in 1892 visitors can

view over 180,000 tombs. Łódź is famous for its Jewish her-itage, though this was all but wiped out in WWII when the city became the home of the notorious Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Over 230,000 Jews were confi ned here, with over 200,000 eventually transferred to death camps. Jews were transferred to gas chambers from Radegast Station, and today visitors can view three cattle trucks that have since been preserved. But the suff ering was by no means exclusive to Jews, as a visit to Radogoszcz Prison proves (F-2, ul. Zgierska 147). Formerly a factory this brick building was transformed by the Nazis into a prison holding Polish socialists and intelligentsia. The exhibition off ers a disturb-ing look at life under occupation, as does the Museum of the Tradition of Independence (A-2, ul. Gdańska 13). A visit to this former tsarist prison off ers a chronological journey through the misfortunes Łódź has suff ered while being under the control of Imperial Russia, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.

Most trips to Łódź will either start, end or focus on one street in particular: ulica Piotrkowska (C-2/7). Measuring a little under fi ve kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pe-destrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of neorenaissance and art nou-veau buildings; some in chronic disrepair, others restored to their former glory. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościusko statue the street stretches southwards with crews of all-year-round rickshaws (5zł from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice.

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is also Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back, having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world cin-ema. Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19th-century palace, the Museum of Cin-ematography (G-4, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1) off ers visitor two indulgences in one. The museum itself off ers a really well presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish fi lm greats who’ve studied in the city and who all went on to greater things as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and though extremely badly signposted, it represents a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cin-ema. Another place inexorably linked with Scheibler is the Księży Młyn Residence (also known as Edward Herbst Palace, H-4, ul. Przędzalniana 72). Though currently the resi-

dence is closed for reno-vation, across the street you can see Scheibler’s enormous factory, Księży Młyn, which opened in 1854 and was soon leaving the competition behind. Once housing 70,000 spindles and the fi rst private gasworks in the city a superb muse-um documenting these times now survives in a former workers tene-ment.

Essential Łódź

ul. Piotrkowska Photo by K. Mozol

Museum of the City of Łódź Photo by M. Kawczyński

Kościuszko Monument Photo courtesy of Łódź City Council.

Photo courtesy of Łódź City Council.


SightseeingOgrodowa - at the time home to an abandoned cemetery - and the building was moved piece by piece overnight by local factory workers to its present location in 1888, where it was consecrated by the Bishop of Warsaw as St. Joseph’s. As a result the church is the oldest and most humble house of worship in the city and possesses just one nave, a shingle roof and a tiny steeple. The church’s interior has recently undergone an impressive renovation and is worth a peek inside. Of particular interest is the neo-Baroque main altar, paid for somewhat surprisingly by the Jewish factory owner Israel Poznański. The free-standing bell tower, depending on whom you wish to believe, either dates from the 18th century and along with the church is the only pre-19th cen-tury building in the city, or was built from concrete in 1922. If the latter, then it has since been clad in wood.QB-2, ul. Ogrodowa 22, tel. (+48) 42 633 76 06, www.jozef.org.pl. Open during mass and by prior arrangement only.

MONUMENTS JARACZ’S CHAIR (FOTEL JARACZA)Unveiled on June 10, 2006, here’s yet another work from the hand of Marcel Szytenchelm. Melded from bronze this number depicts Stefan Jaracz (1883-1945), a distinguished star of the Polish stage. For years he served Warsaw’s Atene-um Theatre as director, as well as being a bit of a name in the theatres of Łódź. He survived wartime imprisonment in Auschwitz only to die months after liberation in 1945. This monument sees our man sat on a theatre chair, with three vacant spots next to him for the benefi t of those who’ve just trekked it up Piotrkowska.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 152.

JULIAN TUWIM’S BENCH (ŁAWECZKA TUWIMA)Łódź-born Julian Tuwim (1894 - 1953) was a Jewish writer and poet who studied law and philosophy at Warsaw Uni-versity and was the co-founder and leader of the Skaman-der group in 1919. A major fi gure in Polish literature, best remembered for his contribution to children’s literature, Wojciech Gryniewicz’s comical statue dates from 1999, and was based on a design by Marcel Szytenchelm - it was to be the fi rst of many statues of eminent citizens to be unveiled on Piotrkowska. A favourite meeting spot, children like to sit on his lap and it’s considered good luck for lovers to rub his nose.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 104.

CHURCHES CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL The city’s Roman Catholic Cathedral is the biggest church in Łódź. A true Gothic masterpiece it was built between 1901 and 1912 by the famous Łódź builders Wende & Zarske from original drawings supposedly supplied by the Berlin archi-tect, Emil Zillmann. Styled along the lines of a typical me-dieval cathedral with three aisles, transept, choir, ambula-tory and Lady Chapel, the interior is famous for being rather severe. Damaged by a fi re in 1971, the Cathedral has been painstakingly restored including the addition of a new roof supported by modern steel trusses. On the Chancery’s side fi nd a small Cenotaph dedicated to the Unknown Soldier, and on the opposite side a monument to Father Skorupka, a Roman Catholic priest who is believed to have made a great contribution to the country’s victory over the Bolsheviks in 1920.QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 265, tel. (+48) 42 636 03 83, www.katedra.lodz.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.

CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARYBuilt to replace St Joseph’s on Kościelny Square between 1888-97, this vast neo-Gothic red brick beauty features some remarkable altars including the superb main altar that includes a triptych of the Ascension of the Blessed Vir-gin Mary dating from 1655, and some of the loveliest exam-ples of stained glass in Poland. The famous Auschwitz nurse Stanisława Leszczyńska is buried here in the crypt, and at the back fi nd the tomb of a certain Mr. Wyszynski, dated 1822 and the only thing left from the oldest cemetery in Łódź.QH-3, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www.mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement.

ORTHODOX CHURCH One of two Orthodox churches in the city, the domed neo-Byzantine St. Alexander Nevsky is the most interesting of the pair and serves as an offi cial cathedral of the Łódź-Poznań Bishop. Said to have been designed by the offi cial city architect Hilary Majewski between 1881 and 1884 as a gift from Łódź’s industrialists to the Orthodox community, the church has many ornate elevations and a breathtaking-ly rich interior featuring iconostasis made in St. Petersburg.QD-4, ul. Kilińskiego 56, tel. (+48) 42 633 41 69. Open by prior arrangement or by attending the 10:00 service on Sundays.

ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. JÓZEFA)Made from larch wood, this diminutive church stands in stark contrast to the hulking brick behemoth Manufaktura across the street. This small church was built between 1765-68 and was originally situated in Kościelny Square under the name the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. As the city boomed so did the congregation, which grew to 6,000 members when it was decided that a larger brick church was needed as replacement. Bishop Jan Siemiec decided to move the wooden church to its current spot on Courtesy of Łódź City Council.


Sightseeing MIŚ USZATEK MONUMENT

What started off as a novelty has now turned into a down-right obsession with monuments. One of the latest to ap-pear on the streets is a one metre, sixty kilo bronze bear. Unveiled on October 24, 2009, this little fella is Miś Uszatek, a fi ctional bear whose been entertaining Polish kids since 1957. Complete with trademark fl oppy ear we’re warned the bear is soon to be joined by other kids favourites, including a Moomin and something called Pik Pok the Penguin. Street renovations have currently caused him to move inside the Tourist Information offi ce at Piotrkowska 87, so peek in the window to catch a glimpse.Qul. Piotrkowska 87.

MONUMENT TO THE 1905 INSURRECTION (POMNIK REWOLUCJI 1905)Designed by Franciszek Karpiński this statue is typical of 70s Polish art, and commemorates the 1905 industrial insurrec-tion against Imperial Russia. Down with the bourgeois pigs etc. Read more about the doomed rebellion in our box on the 1905 Revolution.QPark Piłsudskiego (Polesie).

POPE JOHN PAUL IIUnveiled on June 4, 2000 to coincide with the two thou-sand years of Christianity celebrations and 80 years of the Łódź diocese, Krystyna Fałdyga-Solska’s 2.2m bronze and granite sculpture shows John Paul II as a much younger man, a deliberate illusion referring to his visit to the city in 1987. The three granite blocks he’s standing on symbolise the three millennia between ourselves and the birth of Christ.QH-4, Pl. Katedralny im. Jana Pawła II.

STATUE OF LEON SCHILLERSee Hollyłódź.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 112.

THE LAMP MAN (LAMPIARZ/ LATARNIK)Appearing in September 2007 Marcel Szytenchelm’s latest creation is the rather curious fi gure of a bloke climbing a ladder to fi t a bulb onto a streetlight. Weighing more than a tonne the monument was unveiled to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the fi rst electric streetlight to appear in the city. Replacing the old gas fi red streetlamps, Łódź’s fi rst electric light was once found on this very spot, right outside what was in those days regarded as the most exclu-sive shop in town - the American ‘Diamant Palace’.QC-3, ul. Piotrkowska 37.

TOURIST INFORMATION

CITY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTREBrand new offi ces in the centre of Piotrkowska pro-vided by the local government. The English-speaking staff will provide you with maps and guides in a num-ber of diff erent languages. An Internet terminal off ers access to Łódź tourism sites, though folks toting their laptops can access free wi-fi .QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 87, tel. (+48) 42 638 59 55, www.cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. From October 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION POINT (PUNKT INFORMACJI TURYSTYCZNEJ)Tourist information is available at the heart of the Man-ufaktura complex in a specially built hut. Find guides, maps, souvenirs and lots of information about Łódź and the region from friendly English-speaking staff .QA-1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Rynek), tel. (+48) 695 13 11 13, www.lodzkie.travel. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION POINTAt last, a tourist info point bang in the station - fi nd all the expected services as well as pamphlets, In Your Pocket, helpful advice, maps and postcards.QF-4, ul. Karolewska 55 (PKP Łódź Kaliska), tel. (+48) 42 205 42 00, www.cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

GUIDED TOURS

GRUPA FABRICUMCity tours available upon request for individuals and groups.QD-7, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 535 09 20 86, www.fabricum.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PTTK - POLISH TOURIST AND SIGHTSEEING SOCIETYQD-7, ul. Wigury 12a, tel. (+48) 42 636 87 64, www.lodz.pttk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Guides: English, German, Russian, French, Spain. 360zł/5hrs.

SEGWAY TOURSAnd so, the Segway makes it to Łódź. Yet while it’s a can-didate for the most twittish looking transport contraption ever invented, there’s no doubt these two wheel weir-does are rollicking good fun. Better still, go with a guide (you need to call in advance) and you get the added benefi t of learning about Łódź in a series of languages: English, German, Italian, Spanish etc. Tours take place in winter, weather depending.QC-4, ul. Strykowska 133, tel. (+48) 42 630 30 38, www.supersegway.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement.

Photo by P. Wojtyczka.


Sightseeing

CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES To understand exactly what Łódź is all about, and to really get under the city’s skin, a visit to the Textile Museum is a good place to start. Although everything is displayed in Polish only, the three fl oors of exhibition rooms con-taining a mind-boggling array of steam-driven looms, fabric-printing machines, contrasting recreations of how the workers and their factory-owning bosses lived and worked, original paintings of Łódź in its 19th-century heyday, lace, rugs and other paraphernalia connected to the textile industry speak volumes about the city that’s often referred to as the Manchester of Poland. The ic-ing on the cake: the museum is housed inside Ludwig Geyer’s mammoth 19th-century White Factory, an ex-traordinary building worthy of a journey in itself.QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa by the Open Air Museum), tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. Sat free for permanent exibitions. UN

MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOGRAPHYEstablished in 1931 and one of the leading research in-stitutions of its kind in the country, this charming little museum is packed with intricately carved swords and muskets, archaeological finds from Palaeolithic Poland including flint axes, pots and the customary skeleton in a glass case, charming models of river settlements from the 3rd century and recreations of 19th-century peasant houses. If the idea of being followed by the staff doesn’t worry you in the least then this museum can’t come recommended highly enough.QC-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 42 632 84 40, www.maie.lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last en-trance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, Tue free.

THREE FACTORY OWNERS (POMNIK TWÓRCÓW ŁODZI PRZEMYSŁOWEJ)Łódź is generally believed to be the creation of three vision-ary industrialists, celebrated here in a bronze statue dating from 2002. The three men in question are the Jewish phi-lanthropist and industrialist Israel Poznański (1833-1900), Henryk Grohman (1862-1939), industrialist and patron of the arts and Karol Schreiber, creator of the city’s extraordi-nary Księży Młyn.QC-3, ul. Piotrkowska 32.

VICTIMS OF COMMUNISM (POMNIK OFIAR KOMUNIZMU)Idiotic monuments have become de rigeur in Łódź, so here’s one that actually merits its existence. Unveiled on December 12, 2009, and depicting a Polish eagle rising proudly above a set of bars, this 550,000 złoty monument is dedicated to all those who died and suff ered under com-munism. Designed by Wojciech Gryniewicz, a particular point of interest is the building it stands in front of; under German occupation this high school was once the seat of the local Gestapo, and from 1945 till 1956 operated as home of the internal security services.QE-1, Al. Karola Anstadta.

WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT’S TRUNK (KUFER REYMONTA)Polish writer and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1924. Brought up in the town of Tuszyn, close to Łódź, his early life proved inauspicious, with his only formal cer-tifi cate of education being a qualifi cation as a journeyman tailor. Refusing to make use of such a skill he ran away from home to join a traveling theatre, though fi nancial practicali-ties forced him to return to his family where he worked for a while as a gateman at the railway crossing near Koluszki. The job failed to grasp his imagination and he worked for a while as a medium alongside a German spiritualist, before once again joining a theatre group. The publication of his work Korespondencje in 1892 saw another career turn and he traveled to Warsaw to pursue a life of writing. Over the following years he became one of Poland’s most prolifi c and admired writers, and his book Chłopi beat the likes of Mann, Hardy and Gorky to claim the Nobel Prize. Like his book Ziemia Obiecana, Chłopi is a moral tale presented to a background of gritty, industrial-age Łódź. He died the fol-lowing year in 1925.The statue you see is yet another work credited to the pro-lifi c hand of Marcel Szytenchelm and was unveiled in 2001.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 137.

MUSEUMS ART MUSEUM - MS¹ (MUZEUM SZTUKI)This superb museum and gallery features a worthy mod-ern art exhibition - called Open Composition - courtesy of progressive artists from a number of countries, including Poland.QA-3, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 6/3zł. Thu free for all exhibits.

Townhouse on ul. Piotrkowska Photo by Mat Fahrenholz


Sightseeing MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY (MUZEUM PRZYRODNICZE)A typically run of the mill Polish museum that wouldn’t look out of place in a small town anywhere in the country, fi nd the usual collection of stuff ed birds and rocks not very thought-fully presented and illustrated in Polish only. Belonging to the university, there’s little reason to drop by here unless you’re a fan of this kind of thing or if you’re in the park and the heav-ens open.QE-5, ul. Kilińskiego 101 (Sienkiewicz Park), tel. (+48) 42 665 54 90, www.biol.uni.lodz.pl/muzeum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing, Sat and Sun 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. N

MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ (MUZEUM MIASTA ŁODZI)Inside the breathtaking Neo-Baroque former residence of Łódź manufacturer Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznański, this mu-seum within a museum, dedicated to the relatively short life and times of Poland’s second city from the end of the 19th century to the outbreak of WWII, knocks you out from the moment you walk through the front door. Jammed full of exhibits tracing the history, people, culture and ups and downs of the city, fi nd recreations of daily life from kitchen interiors to sections of streets. There are many fi ne exam-ples of silverware and porcelain too, and rooms dedicated to many of the city’s former inhabitants, including Łódź’s unoffi cial Rubinstein museum (the only one in the world), giving over several rooms to the legendary Jewish pianist. Once this was the only section with English descriptions, but more and more sections are seeing translations added. The Jewish theme is admirably represented, and includes a tribute to Jan Karski, the envoy of Poland’s underground authorities who fi rst alerted the West to the Holocaust. Thoroughly recommended.QB-1, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Wed 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Last entrance 30 minutes be-fore closing. Admission 9/5zł, admission to Galeria Mis-trzów Polskich exhibit 10/5zł, combined tickets 15/8zł, temporary exhibits only 5/3zł. Sun free. N

MUSEUM OF THE TRADITION OF INDEPENDENCE (MUZEUM TRADYCJI NIEPODLEGŁOŚCIOWYCH)Set inside a former Tsarist prison your tour begins on the ground fl oor, where a walk around the former cells allows visitors to glimpse depressing sights like huge, rusty re-straints, a pitch-black isolation cell and playing cards and chess sets produced by the inmates. From there the mu-seum is a chronological journey on the “Roads to Freedom” experienced in the city, covering the years 1768-1923. The 1905 workers revolution is covered in detail, with prison-ers letters and presses used to print infl ammatory leafl ets all on display. Hugely interesting, though the paucity of English-language translations is guaranteed to frustrate.QA-2, ul. Gdańska 13, tel. (+48) 42 632 71 12, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Fri. Admission free.

OPEN-AIR MUSEUM OF THE ŁÓDŹ WOODEN ARCHITECTURETucked behind the Central Museum of Textiles is a unique open-air museum dedicated to the wooden architecture that dominated the streets of Łódź in its early years. Until roughly 1830 almost every structure built was wooden, and many of those were created to house the infl ux of work-ers needed for the city’s booming manufacturers (often the homes included workshops where tradespeople like weavers could work). Wood fell out of favour in the 1860s and 1870s as more homes began to be built out of brick, and their numbers continued to dwindle as many wood buildings were destroyed during World War II. Today the museum features several examples of the era’s architecture, including a church, a summer villa, a one-story house for workers, a wooden tram stop and several craftsmen hous-es. The museum is arranged along two “streets” that include lamps and street signs to add to the authenticity. The two standouts are the elaborate villa, which was moved to the site from Ruda Pabianicka (a village that was absorbed by Lodz) and the church, which was erected between 1846-1848 and moved from Nowosolna (also a village that be-came part of Lodz). A great place to begin your tour - which is self-guided - is at the weaver’s house, which has been fully kitted out with period furniture and accessories down to the chamber pot beneath the bed, and off ers English de-scriptions of what life was like for the city’s labourers.QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 282 (entrance from ul. Milionowa), tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free except for house number 6, which is included in the price of a Museum of Textiles ticket. N

SPORTS AND TOURISM MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ (MUZEUM SPORTU I TURYSTYKI)One of the great unsung oddities of Łódź, the Sports and Tourism Museum of the City of Łódź has been attracting the accidental visitor since 1982, amusing those who enter with its collection of Olympic medals, funny bikes, foot-ball pennants and trophies - as well as entertaining team photos featuring some extraordinary moustaches.QG-4, ul. Księdza Skorupki 21, tel. (+48) 42 636 40 53, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 4/2zł. N

Statue on ul. Piotrkowska Photo by Mat Fahrenholz


SightseeingScheibler tomb, built in the form of a Neo-Gothic church, and commonly accepted as the most striking tomb in Po-land. The sporadic disrepair adds to the atmosphere.QF-3, ul. Ogrodowa 39. Open 07:00 - 20:00. From November open 07:00 - 17:00.

OLD TOWN SQUARE (STARY RYNEK)On the face of it there’s very little to see in Łódź’s old town square - for a start it’s grey, barren and not old in the slight-est. The buildings you see in front of it are Stalin-era fi n-est, and went up right after the war. Indeed, the grandiose squares of Kraków and Warsaw have little to fear, but to ignore it entirely would be a schoolboy error. Firstly, and rather obviously, the square didn’t always look like this. Before the war this was the heart of what was a thriving Jewish community, and in its heyday was home to a timber town hall and a small lake on the southern end. Houses of sturdier material were added in the 19th century, and in the 20th century the western front was occupied by mar-ket stalls designed by the eminent architect of the time, Marconi, and the square was deemed suffi ciently upmar-ket for one of Izrael Poznański’s sons to take up quarters there. When WWII broke out it formed the very southern edge of the ghetto, and a wooden bridge was added over ul. Nowomiejska to link the square with the western side of the ghetto. Following the war the communists decided to get shot of the old buildings demolished everything in the sight. The architect in charge of the project was Ryszard Karlowicz, and he was under orders to follow the ideals of Socialist Realism - a severe artistic style pegged to strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. He didn’t disappoint, coming up with a network of uniform looking streets with a simple classicist form that were designed to hon-our both patriotic and socialist ideals. The square was later topped off in 1964 with a statue of commie agitator Julian Marchlewski, though that fell victim to the iconoclastic fury that erupted once the communists were booted out. In-stead, today you’ll fi nd a memorial stone in its place, added in 1998 to mark the 575th anniversary of the fi rst recorded mention of Łódź. While it might look a bit bleak and boring the area is certainly well worth a snoop - see if you can spot the hammer and sickle on on ul. Podrzeczna.QC-1.

PALM HOUSE (PALMIARNIA)Completely renovated in 2003 and now the most modern example of its kind in Poland, the quirky Palm House is a delight for green-fi ngered jungle types. One of the warm-est and most relaxing places to visit during the winter, ex-hibits include 20 very precious palm trees and plants that have been growing here for 130 years. Perhaps strangest of all is the experience you feel when you look up and see bananas growing. Mind out for the meat-eating plants too, and be sure to leave your dog at home. Be warned that the last week of September the Palmiarnia will be closed for renovations.QG-4, Al. Piłsudskiego 61 (Park Źródliska 1), tel. (+48) 42 674 96 65, www.botaniczny.lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From October open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł. N

PARKS ŁAGIEWNICKI FORESTWalking around downtown Łódź you would never guess that Europe’s largest urban park can be found north of the city. The name of the forest is directly related to an 11th century settlement of the same name. Occupying an area of 1,250 hectares the forest features countless walking and cycling trails, 542 diff erent plants and 101 types of tree, pre-dominantly oak, spruce and birch. The forest was used as a base for insurgents during the 1863 rising against Imperial Russia, while WWII saw it double as site of mass execution by the Nazis. The North West of the forest houses an 18th cen-tury Franciscan monastery, primarily known for its painting of St Anthony, which is claimed to have healing properties.

MONIUSZKO PARK (PARK MONIUSZKI)Originally unveiled in 1874 the park you see bordering the train station was initially designed by Hilary Majewski, the architect most associated with the city. Extensively remod-eled in 1934 the park was formerly known as Park Kolejowy, and then Aleksandrowski, before acquiring its current name in the 1960s. Named to honour one of Poland’s most emi-nent composers a bust of Stanisław Moniuszko stands in what is otherwise a rather weary looking overgrown park.QD/E-4, ul. Kilińskiego, ul. Składowa, ul. Narutowicza.

SIENKIEWICZ PARKFounded in 1896 and opened in 1899, Sienkiewicz Park is one of the oldest parks in Łódź. At just 5.2ha there are plenty of things to see and do in it. The park is also the home to the Museum of Natural History and the highly recommended Centre for the Propagation of Art.QD-5, ul. Kilińskiego, ul. Sienkiewicza, ul. Tuwima.

PLACES OF INTEREST FOUNTAIN OF LOVEStanding in the shadow of the Kościuszko statue on pl. Wolności (right in front of Café Wiedeńska) is Łódź’s fa-vourite fountain. Originally constructed in the 1930s by students from the local arts school the fountain was al-lowed to fall into disrepair in the post-war years. Recently renovated, the new look version was unveiled in July, 2004, and its proximity to the nearby church make it a favoured backdrop for newlyweds to pose in front of. Its moniker, The Fountain of Love, stems from the legend that if two lovers wash their faces in its water their love will be eternal. The renovation is part of a project titled Fountains for Łódź - the idea of Marek Pyka, president of the local water board - and plans have been hatched to build or renovate another dozen fountains within the city limits.QC-2, Pl. Wolności.

OLD CEMETERY (STARY CMENTARZ)A vast necropolis founded in 1858 to serve those of Catholic, Evangelical and Orthodox faiths. It’s here you’ll fi nd the tombs of Łódź’s most eminent citizens, including the tombs of industrialists such as Beiderman, Grohman, Geyer and Kindermann. The undisputed highlight is the


Hollyłódź

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is Poland’s answer to Tin-seltown. Stop sniggering at the back: having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hol-lywood has made an undeniable impact on world cinema.

HISTORYThe story starts in 1948, with the foundation of the National Film School. With Warsaw lying in ruins the major theatres, opera and theatre groups, and other miscellaneous artistes found themselves decamping to the nearest major city: Łódź. With Poland’s principal actors, performers and direc-tors attracted to the city it was only natural to base the fi lm school in this town.From its early beginnings the school had two distinct de-partments: fi lm directing and cinematography. Initially the curriculum was limited to simple group productions, but soon fi lms directed by individuals started to become the norm, all fi lmed using 35mm industry standard cameras. Among the fi rst batch of students were Andrzej Munk and Andrzej Wajda, the latter scooping an Oscar in 2000 for his contribution to fi lm. In an era dominated by Big Brother is Watching-style paranoia the school became a haven for the avant-garde and the small screening rooms would regularly pack out not just with students, but the rank and fi le proles looking to enjoy the latest European cinema. It was in this liberal climate that the school also proved to be the fi rst place in Poland to host jazz jam sessions, offi cially outlawed by the authorities.The Wajda generation would go on to shape Polish fi lm, with a series of edgy fi lms taking a heavy infl uence from the Italian neo-realists. The fi lms produced in the late 1950s were in direct opposition to offi cial guidelines, and fi lms like Wajda’s Ashes and Diamonds used screen talents like Zbyszek Cybulski, a charismatic, hotwire actor often la-belled the Polish James Dean. Roman Polański entered the school in 1954, and four years later propelled the school to international fame when he won an award at Brussels’ Expo ‘58 for his fi lm Two Men and a Cupboard. Alas the golden years soon proved to be numbered.The late 1960s saw several anti-zionist actions launched by the government, and as a result the school lost several of its rising stars in the Jewish exodus that followed - includ-ing rector Jerzy Toeplitz, who would later become the co-

Photo by M. Kawczyński

founder of Australia’s fi rst fi lm school. The fi lm school soon regained its balance however, and has since produced luminaries such as Krzysztof Kieślowski, cameraman Sla-womir Idziak and Krzysztof Zanussi.Established in 1993 the Camerimage Festival - honouring the art of cinematography - further cemented the school’s place in fi lmlore, with gold, silver and bronze frogs award-ed for feature fi lms, and tadpoles to students. In the past the festival has attracted household names such as Oliver Stone, Peter Weir and Val Kilmer, and it was during a visit to this festival that David Lynch discovered a passion for the city. However, and STOP PRESS on this bombshell, after years of international success the city has announced that it has lost the festival to the itsy town of Bydgoszcz, not so much a bitter blow as an axe to the face. Still, even so, fi lm buff s have two points of interest: fi rstly the Museum of Cinematography and secondly the Łódź Walk of Fame; a collection of star shaped plaques right outside the Grand Hotel on Piotrkowska honouring the greatest talents in Pol-ish cinema.

SIGHTSEEING LEON SCHILLER NATIONAL HIGHER SCHOOL OF FILM, TELEVISION AND THEATREThere isn’t much you can do other than stand outside the gates and gawk, but the Leon Schiller National Higher School of Film, Television and Theatre is where Hollyłódź was born, and since it’s right next door to the Museum of Cinematography it’s worth a casual walk past. Students still stream in and out of the campus, and you might catch a glimpse of the next Kieślowski.QG-4, ul. Targowa 61-63, tel. (+48) 42 634 58 00, www.fi lmschool.lodz.pl.

ŁÓDŹ WALK OF FAMEBorrowing the idea from the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Łódź has created its own strip of sidewalk featuring star-shaped plaques honoring the best of Polish cinema (can a giant Hollywoodesque “Łódź” sign be far off ?). The stars are on ei-ther side of Piotrkowska right outside the Grand Hotel and include names like Roman Polański, Jerzy Kawalerowicz and Pola Negri.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska.

MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY (MUZEUM KINEMATOGRAFII)Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s ex-traordinary 19th-century palace, the Cinematography Mu-seum off ers visitor two indulgences in one. The museum itself off ers a really well presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish fi lm greats who’ve studied in the city and who all went on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and though extremely badly signposted (don’t be surprised to fi nd yourself directed to blind alleys or opening secret doors to reveal private offi ces), it represents a rewarding experi-ence for fans of Polish cinema. The collection features over 50,000 items including over 12,000 fi lm posters, art exhib-its and projectors and camera equipment of every kind.


Hollyłódź

THE FORMER GRADUATES

KRZYSZTOF KIEŚLOWSKIRejected twice by the Łódź Film School, Krzysztof Kieślowski fi nally landed a spot on his third attempt and spent his tenure from 1964-1968 focused on docu-mentary fi lmmaking. Much of his work tended to fo-cus on everyday life in Poland and the lives of average citizens, including Workers ‘71, which featured workers talking about the mass strikes of 1970. Yet fi ctional fi lm-making, which he transitioned to in the mid-1970s, is what made his name. Personnel, his fi rst feature fi lm, earned him a top prize at the Mannheim Film Festival, and he followed up with movies like The Scar, Camera Buff , Blind Chance and The Decalogue. However, his biggest success came with the Three Colours Trilogy, a series of French/Polish fi lms released in 1993 and 1994 that Kieślowski directed and co-wrote. The trilogy net-ted Kieslowski heaps of recognition, including multiple Academy Award nominations and a Palme d’Or nomi-nation at the Cannes Film Festival. Kieślowski died in 1996 and is buried in Warsaw’s famed Powązki Cem-etery.

ROMAN POLAŃSKIMany people know director Roman Polański more for his personal life - including a marriage to Manson Family victim Sharon Tate and his evasion of charges in the United States for unlawful sex with a minor - than for his body of work. But Polański has consistently churned out successful movies following his stint at the Łódź Film School, and his fi rst feature fi lm, Knife in the Water, was nominated for an Academy Award. Polański followed up with box-offi ce successes like Rosemary’s Baby and Chinatown, the latter of which received 11 Academy Award nominations. Polański’s most personal work came in 2002 with The Pianist, which told the story of Polish Jew Władyslaw Szpil-man, whose escape from the Warsaw ghetto closely paralleled Polański’s own experience surviving the Krakow ghetto. The fi lm, which premiered in Warsaw, was nominated for 11 Academy Awards and earned Polański a nod as Best Director and the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival.

ANDRZEJ WAJDADirector Andrzej Wajda, 85, has a length fi lmography to match his age. Four of his fi lms - The Promised Land, The Maids of Wilko, Man of Iron and Katyń - were nominated for Academy Awards, and Wajda himself received an honorary Oscar in 2000. Many of his fi lms focus on war, which makes sense considering Wajda’s background: his father, a Polish cavalry offi cer, was murdered by the Soviets in 1940 during the Katyń massacre. Wajda tackled the painful topic in his 2007 fi lm Katyń, which tells the story of the massacre through the eyes of the mothers, daughters and wives of the executed soldiers.

Standouts include the fotoplastikon, a giant drum-like con-traption popular in the early 20th century for showing 3D fi lms (currently unavailable during repairs), and the excel-lent exhibit devoted to animated photography featuring plenty of vintage stop-motion characters and accompa-nying clips. The newest permanent exhibit lets visitors see the evolution of fi lm over time via recreated fi lm sets from diff erent eras.The palace itself is a dream, featuring room upon room of delights, including the city’s fi rst electric lift, some beautiful tiled stoves, a Turkish smoking room and many other treats besides. Built in 1856 to serve as residence for industrialist fat cat Karol Scheibler the palace contains interiors designed in Venice, Berlin and Dresden, including ceramic tiled stoves and dramatic oak panelling. Even if fi lm is not your scene, this place deserves visiting just to see how the other half once lived. They off er guided tours in English for 100 zł and in Polish for 70zł.QG-4, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 674 09 57, www.kinomuzeum.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł, guided tours 50zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits. U

STATUE OF LEON SCHILLERThat grim-faced blockish statue you see standing by ul. Pi-otrkowska 112 is Leon Schiller, or to give his full name, Leon Schiller de Schidenfeld. Born in Kraków in 1887 he graduated from Jagiellonian University with degrees in philosophy and Polish Literature under his belt before pursuing further aca-demic titles at the Sorbonne in Paris. Having cut his teeth as a singer in Kraków’s notoriously rowdy Green Balloon Cabaret he was to go on to become one of the most famous fi lm and theatre directors of pre-WWII Poland. In a career that took him across the country with a variety of theatre groups he is particularly famous for his staging of Adam Mickiewicz’s masterpiece Dziady in Warsaw’s Teatr Polski. Credited with directing over 29 dramas and a dozen or so vaudeville pro-ductions Schiller’s life predictably went wrong with the Ger-man invasion of 1939. In revenge for the assassination of the Polish actor and Gestapo agent Igo Sym, Schiller was appre-hended by the Nazis and held in Warsaw’s infamous Pawiak Prison - of the 100,000 estimated Poles who passed through the prisons gates only 3,000 are understood to have survived the war. Schiller was one of those survivors, thanks in no small part to his sister, who paid a hefty ransom fee to ensure his release. Following WWII he accepted the presidency of Łódź’s National Drama School before fi nally passing away in 1954.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 112.

SHOPPING EMPIKWant to pick up Polanski’s Chinatown or Wajda’s Katyń while you’re in Lódź (expect a 3-4 day wait)? Your best bet is to hit up Empik at Manufactura, a two-story outlet of media that includes plenty of Polish DVDs from Lodz’s famed fi lm school.QA-1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 15, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.


Jewish Łódź

By the time Hitler launched his depraved campaign to expand Germany’s borders the Jewish population of Łódź stood at 233,000 - approximately a third of the town’s in-habitants, and a fi gure only surpassed by the capital, War-saw. To trace the beginnings of Łódź’s Jewish heritage one must go back to the mid-18th century, a time when Łódź was little more than a sleepy hamlet. A census taken in 1793 noted the presence of eleven Jews out of a popula-tion that numbered 190, a fi gure that was to rise to 98 by 1809. It was to prove a key time for Łódź’s Jews, with the town’s fi rst synagogue built that same year, and a cem-etery on ul. Rybna unveiled in 1811. Things were moving fast, not just for the Jewish community but for the town itself. Philosopher, writer and statesman Stanisław Staszic had long been campaigning to turn Łódź into a centre of manufacturing, and 1825 saw his ambitions come to life with the opening of the fi rst cotton mill. The idea caught on, and within the next few years factories were springing up across Łódź like a rash of blackened toadstools. Waves of migrants followed the money, including German, Rus-sian, and Portuguese workers. But none of those groups matched the numbers of the Jews. By the 1840s over one fi fth of the city’s population was Jewish, and this would grow once more when in 1862 laws requiring Jews to live in the north of the city were repealed. Regardless, most Jews remained based around the Bałuty area where cul-tural and religious life thrived; in the years leading up to the war Łódź could count 80 prayer houses, 31 Jewish primary schools, at least fi ve newspapers and numerous theatre and exhibition spaces.This world came crashing down on September 1,1939, with the news that the Nazis had launched their invasion of Poland. Within eight days the city’s streets reverberated with the sound of jackboots, the triumphant Nazis greeted as heroes and liberators by the ethnic Germans of Łódź. Al-most immediately the Nazis set about imposing restrictions on the Jews: on September 18th a decree was issued pro-hibiting the withdrawal of more than 250zł per week from

bank accounts, and over the course of the next month Jew-ish businesses were forcibly signed over to the Germans. Persecution gathered pace following Himmler’s visit on Oc-tober 28 - in the week that followed the city’s main artery, ulica Piotrkowska, was made off -limits to Jews, and scores of intellectuals were rounded up before being executed in the Łagiewniki Forest. Then, on November 9, the decision was taken to absorb Łódź into the Reich, thereby leaving it under the command of committed Nazi Artur Greiser. The terror escalated yet further, and within days synagogues were alight and bodies hanging in the street. On Novem-ber 14 a curfew was imposed on Jews, and for the fi rst time anywhere in the Third Reich Jews were compelled to wear a Star of David on their arm - failure to do so was punish-able by death.The New Year brought with it a fresh set of trials. On Febru-ary 8, 1940, newspapers broke the news that Jews would be resettled in a separate ghetto in Bałuty. After two months of transition the area was sealed on April 30, 1940, following the completion of a barbed wire wall surrounding the area. No one except a few authorised offi cials could get in or out, and approaching the wall from either side brought instant death from a guard’s bullet.Conditions inside the ghetto were poor - Jews lived an av-erage 3.5 people to a room - though not nearly as bad as in the smaller and more crowded Warsaw or Krakow ghet-tos. Jews were also left more or less in peace for the early months of the ghetto’s existence, after the Nazi’s appointed Chaim Mordechai Rumkowski - a prominent Jewish busi-nessman - to run the ghetto on their behalf. He was given the pompous title Judenälteste (Elder of the Jews) and Rumkowski remains a controversial fi gure to this day. For a start few people know why he in particular was chosen by the Nazis to run the ghetto, and whispers seem to indicate he either bought or scammed his way into the position. Yet he began well: he tried to preserve as much normal-ity as possible, setting up schools, a bureaucracy, printing ghetto money (which bore his image) and constructing a

Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of Łódź City Council


Jewish Łódźrudimentary sewage system. He also convinced the Ger-mans to provide raw materials for the ghetto’s factories: the goods made at these factories were then bartered back to the Germans in exchange for food.Yet the food was never enough for the 230,000 ghetto in-habitants, and people quickly began dying of malnutrition and disease. When the Nazis dumped as many as 30,000 Jews from other parts of Poland here in the autumn of 1941 conditions became intolerable. Worse was to come, however: in January 1942 deportations to the death camps began. Over the next three years around 200,000 Jews left the ghetto for the death camps. As the years and selections continued Rumkowski grew more maniacal; he saw the only way for survival to be the creation of a tireless, indis-pensable workforce. Those who couldn’t work were noth-ing but a drain on the meagre food reserves. And so it was that Rumkowski entered folklore in 1942 for imploring his people to surrender their children to the Germans:“A grievous blow has struck the ghetto. They are asking us to give up the best we possess - the children and the elderly. I was unworthy of having a child of my own, so I gave the best years of my life to children. I’ve lived and breathed with children, I never imagined I would be forced to deliver this sacrifi ce to the altar with my own hands. In my old age, I must stretch out my hands and beg: Brothers and sisters! Hand them over to me! Fathers and mothers: Give me your children!” No other ghetto in the Third Reich survived as long as the one in Łódź, but ultimately Rumkowski’s spurious eff orts to ensure survival were to prove futile. In May 1944 Heinrich Himmler ordered the liquidation of the Łódź Ghetto, and over the course of the next few months the last 77,000 Jews were loaded into cattle wagons and sent to the gas chambers of Chełmno, Nerem and Auschwitz. Rumkowski left on the penultimate transport to Auschwitz, and accord-ing to some accounts was burned alive in a crematorium by workers who had recognized him. Historical records suggest that between fi ve to twelve thousand ghetto habi-tants survived to see the end of the war.

POST WAR JEWISH ŁÓDŹMany Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on Łódź at the end of the war and a new, thriving community sprang up. Though there were two major waves of state-sponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there remains a thriving Jewish community of around 5,000 peo-ple in the city, primarily based around the synagogue on ul. Pomorska 18 (D-2). Of all Poland’s cities, few have been as understanding and remorseful as Łódź when dealing with the legacies of the Holocaust.

THE GHETTOThe Łódź ghetto was one of the largest Jewish ghettos set up in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the north-central part of the city, comprising the area north of Staromiejski Park (Old Łódź), and out as far as the Jewish Cemetery to the east of the city. The area was chosen to host the ghetto as most of the city’s Jews already lived in the district; indeed - as opposed to Kraków or Warsaw - there was little swapping of homes that fell on the wrong side of

the wall between Jews and gentiles. The Łódź Ghetto is also commonly known as the Litzmannstadt Ghetto - on May 5, 1940 the city of Łódź was renamed Litzmannstadt in hon-our of the German general who (unsuccessfully) attempted to occupy Łódź in World War I.

TRACES OF THE GHETTOThe area which once formed the ghetto is today covered with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as whole swathes of buildings that seemingly haven’t seen a lick of paint since the Germans left. It’s a real rundown part of the city this, and frankly you’d be advised to keep the camera hidden and a spring-loaded truncheon at hand. On the plus side, the intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in time. Filled with forgotten courtyards and derelict doorways, it’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk the streets of Łódź’s now silent Jewish quarter. Before setting off it’s worth bearing in mind a couple of points: fi rstly, you will be covering a distance of approximately ten kilometres, so it’s probably best not to attempt this in the middle of summer with a computer bag strapped to you. Secondly, to get the most out of the sites you’ll be passing, pick up a copy of Joanna Podolska’s Traces of the Litzmannstadt- Ghetto (see Further Reading for details). Fi-nally, while it is often suggested to start at the Rynek before concluding your tour at Radegast Station (the train station where Jews were deported) - a logical route for those who wish to follow the chronological history of the ghetto - it’s certainly not the most practical. Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to get the most out of your day we suggest taking a taxi fi rst to Radegast, and then following the trail all the way back to the centre not vice versa.

WALKING TOUR RADEGAST STATION“Today we are building a bridge of memory and dialogue over the decades of tragic forgetfulness.”Marek Belka, Prime Minister of Poland, 2004.

As with many Holocaust sites across Eastern Europe, Ra-degast Station - from where as many 200,000 Łódź Jews left for the death camps of Chełmno and Auschwitz - has only recently been accorded the honour and respect it deserves. It has

been thoughtfully restored as a place of remembrance, and though it is a long walk from the centre of Łódź it is well worth a visit. Three original Deutsche Reisebahn cattle trucks stand poignantly at the station’s platform with their doors open, as if another trainload of Jews is imminent. Though most visitors are tempted to enter the wagons, al-most none actually do. Elsewhere there are large signposts - in the shape of headstones - denoting the destinations of the trains which left here: Stutthof, Ravensbruck, Chełmno, Auschwitz. There are also plaques commemorating the



Jewish ŁódźJews of Vienna and Luxembourg, who were transported to the death camps after transiting through the ghetto. The plaque from the city of Vienna is suitably, simply re-pentant: “The city of Vienna commemorates its citizens in mourning and in shame.” Indeed.QG-2, Al. Pamięci Ofi ar Litzmannstadt Getto 12, tel. (+48) 42 291 36 27, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Exhibits can be viewed 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Thu 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri. For groups of 10 or more guided tours in English are 30zł. Please book in advance by calling 42 291 36 27 or 783 75 53 91.

JEWISH CEMETERY (CMENTARZ ŻYDOWSKI)The largest Jewish cemetery in Europe holds 180,000 graves, with many laid to rest inside ostentatious tombs that are works of art themselves (including the biggest Jewish mausoleum which belongs to Israel Poznański). Less ceremonious was the burial of the 45,000 or so Jews who died in the ghetto - you’ll fi nd them interred in the so-called ‘Ghetto Field’ in the south of the cemetery. This is where the ‘clean-up squad’ of around 800 Jews who had remained to clear the ghetto were forced to dig their own graves. The Nazis, surprised by the speed of the Soviet ad-vance, didn’t have time to carry out the execution, and the empty graves have been left as eerie reminder.QG-2, ul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Ad-mission 6zł, free fi rst Sunday of every month.

THE MONUMENT IN COMMEMORATION OF THE POLISH CHILDREN MARTYRDOM (POMNIK MARTYROLOGII DZIECI)

The ghetto was also home to a separate camp for Polish children, and this was located on ul. Przemysłowa. Today only a former admin build-ing remains at number 34, though a large memorial can also be spotted if you carry on walking straight into Park Szarych Szeregów. Depicting an emaciated fi gure staring

through a cracked white heart, the monument is dedi-cated to the 1,600 children who were processed through the camp once found on these grounds. Beatings and hard labour were standard here, and it is estimated that over 130 children died while in custody, many due to starvation.QG-2, Park im. Szarych Szeregów.

GYPSY CAMPAs bad as conditions were elsewhere in the ghetto it’s com-monly accepted that no one had it worse than the gypsies. In early November some 5,007 Roma and Sinti people were herded into a separate ghetto entered from ul. Wojska Pol-skiego and confi ned in revolting conditions. On January 12, 1942, the camp was liquidated and all remaining habitants were transported to death camps. To this day little is known of what happened inside, though a quote from ghetto sur-vivor Sara Zyskind says enough: „The two men who were

fi rst to enter that Gypsy camp could not recover for a long time from the shock they experienced reading the inscrip-tions in German left by the Gypsies on the walls.”QG-3, ul. Wojska Polskiego 84.

SYNAGOGUEThe oldest synagogue in the city was built between 1895 and 1900 by the Reigher family foundation and only sur-vived the Second World War because it was used for storing salt. The war did unfortunately destroy the interior as well as an allegedly lovely Star of David stained-glass window. A plaque on the east wall commemorates the synagogue’s founder who starved to death in the Łódź ghetto. The Nis-senbaum and Lauder foundations renovated the shrine in 1989. Religious services are no longer held here, but can be attended at the synagogue on ul. Pomorska 18 (C-2).QD-2, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 28, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open by prior arrangement with Jew-ish Community.

DECALOGUE MONUMENT (POMNIK DEKALOGU)The Decalogue Monument is appropriately placed in Staromiejski Park at the point where two former syna-gogues were located: Alte Szil and Old Synagogue. Un-veiled in 1995, it shows Mo-ses holding the tablet of the Ten Commandents and was

designed by Kazimierz Gustaw Zemła. The Old Synagogue was the fi rst wooden synagogue in Łódź and was built in 1809 and by 1854 services ceased due to fears the old building would collapse. By 1871 the new concrete syna-gogue Alte Szil was built on the same ground and was one of Poland’s greatest. Sadly but unsurprisingly the structure did not survive the war; the Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939.QC-1, Park Staromiejski.

OLD SYNAGOGUEThe Old Synagogue was the fi rst wooden synagogue in Łódź and was constructed at ul. Wolborska 20 (now the Decalogue Monument is placed here exactly) in 1809 by Mojżesz Fajtłowicz and Pinkus Zajdler. From 1854 services were moved away from the synagogue out of fear that it would collapse, and between 1863-1871 a new concrete synagogue called Alte Szil was built on the same ground.QC-1, Park Staromiejski.

ALTE SZIL SYNAGOGUEAlte Szil operated as the main synagogue for Łódź’s Jew-ish Community beginning with its opening 1871. It was located on ul. Wolborska 20 and was considered one of the greatest synagogues in Łódź and even all of Poland. It was rebuilt in 1893 and sported various styles such as Byz-antine, Moorish Revival and Romanesque Revival. During WWII Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939, with nothing remaining of the once-dramatic synagogue today.QC-1, Park Staromiejski.



Jewish Łódź THE GHETTO BRIDGES

The ghetto entirely sur-rounded Łódź’s major market, Bałucki Rynek, which the Nazis were keen to keep open. To achieve this the Nazis sealed off the market and its access roads, allowing traffi c to come and go without entering the ghetto. In eff ect this created two separate ghettos. These were split by the market and

ul. Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over ul. Zgierska and another linked the divided street of ul. Zachod-nia. The bridges have become a symbol of the ghetto, and appear on all ghetto literature. The bridge pictured below was on lower ul. Zgierska, linking ul. Podrzeczna to Stary Rynek. Neither the bridge nor the surrounding buildings remain to-day.QC-1, Crossing of ul. Zgierska and ul. Podrzeczna.

THE RED HOUSE (CZERWONY DOMEK)Few addresses inspired as much fear in the ghetto dwellers as ul. Kościelna 8/10. Known as the Red House it was commandeered by the Kripo (Criminal Police) as a head-quarters to combat smug-gling. In reality it was allowed to turn into a brutal interroga-tion centre, where those sus-pected of illegal activity would be tortured in the basements.

Today the building is the property of the nearby church, with only the plaque outside suggesting the sinister pur-pose the building once served.QG-3, ul. Kościelna 8/10.

CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARYST. MARY’S PARISH CHURCHCompleted in 1897 this red brick neo-gothic masterpiece saw its fair share of hard times during the ghetto years. In 1942 it was used as a warehouse to store the clothes of those gassed in Chełmno and Nerem, after which it became a feather factory employing slave Jewish labour. Surround-ing it are several surviving points of interest: The postal ser-vice and main treasury were located on pl. Kościelny 4/6, while next door a pharmacy operated from number 8 - a function still held by the building today.QH-3, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www.mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement.

BAŁUCKI RYNEKDescribed by Oskar Singer as the “heart and brains of the ghetto,” Bałucki Rynek was where all the principle offi ces of the ghetto administration were based - including Rum-kowski’s custom-made barracks. It was also the logistics hub of the whole area, where food arrived, and where goods made in the ghetto left. The Rynek was separated from the rest of the ghetto and could only be accessed with

a special pass.Today it’s hard to get a feel for what was once here, and nowadays anyone penetrating the market square is liable to leave blinded by the plastic gizmos and general detritus on sale.QG-3, Rynek Bałucki.

SCHUPO AND GESTAPO HQWhile it might be hard to picture when you’re staring at the chemist’s and a loans offi ce that stand here today, this was once the home of the Gestapo and the Schupo, which kept tight and merciless control over the ghetto. Several stories you’ll read recall how German sentries would delight in shooting at Jews for sport, as a June 1941 order allowed offi cers to fi re without warning at any Jew trying to leave the ghetto was liberally abused. A plaque erected on this building on the 40th anniversary of the ghetto liquidation commemorates the fate of the 200,000 Jews and 20,000 gypsies.QG-3, ul. Limanowskiego 1.

OLD JEWISH CEMETERYFrom there follow ul. Zachodnia southwards, admiring the Stalinera monstrosities that were hastily built on top of the former Jewish area. Turning in at ul. Bazarowa you’ll note an overgrown triangle of parkland, nowadays popular with winos and other scapegraces. Towards the far pointed end is a small stone set in the grass, its inscription missing (some-thing to do with the aforementioned winos, we’d guess). This marks the spot of the ghetto gallows. From there head up ul. Rybna, passing a couple of former factories, before turning in at ul. Rybna 11a. Walk past the basketball court, and lads tipping back lager, and you’ll once more fi nd a stone with a missing plaque. This is all that is left to denote that the area was once Łódź’s oldest Jewish cemetery. Es-tablished in 1811, and operating until 1892, the cemetary was the fi nal resting place for over 13,000 people. During the holocaust the tombs were ripped up and used for pav-ing stones, though the bodies remained underground (dig hard and you’ll still fi nd bones).QG-3, ul. Rybna 11.

HELENOWEK ORPHANAGEHelenowek is the orphanage where Rumkowski served as director prior to the war. In the immediate aftermath it was used to house child survivors of the Holocaust. Today it is abandoned and crumbling, a derelict and ghostly remind-er.QF-1, ul. Krajowa 15.

USEFUL CONTACTS

JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTREQC-2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SYNAGOGUEOpen for prayer and religious services.QC-2, ul. Po-morska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.jewishlodz.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Photo courtesy Polish National Archive


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Leisure

With a modern water park, new indoor arena and of course the entertainment and leisure centre incorporated within Manufaktura, Łódź can off er a range of ideas on how to spend your time. And don’t forget that this is one of Po-land’s greenest cities, with over 30 parks within the city limits. Las Łagiewnicki off ers a whole range of outdoor pos-sibilities throughout the year.

ADRENALINE SPORTS SPORTY EKSTREMALNE 4X4Rent quads and off -road cars for use on a private 4x4 track. The track includes hills, descents, mud and ditches.Qul. Ogrodników 2b, Nowa Gadka, tel. (+48) 508 01 68 94, www.sportyekstremalne4x4.pl. Open 10:00 till dusk. Quads: 200zł/1 hour. Cars: 250zł/1 hour.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS FRAME POOL & SNOOKER CLUBPool and snooker inside Łódź’s premier billiard hall. Tourna-ments, leagues, bar, darts, ping-pong and foosball tables.QC-4, ul. Narutowicza 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 630 80 42, www.frame.lodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES JAZDA!PARKBilliards, darts, arcade machines and slots galore. Also at (D-7) ul. Piłsudskiego 5, a location which also has bowling.QB-1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 633 50 18, www.jazdapark.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.

KINDERPLANETAA great space built with the pre-teens in mind. Thrills on off er include the chance to drive a mini-train or motorbike, get dizzy on slides and carousels, indulge the mind with logic games or jump up and down on trampolines.QB-1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 630 02 50, www.kinderplaneta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 14-16zł per hour.

FITNESS & GYMS BODY LINE GROUPGym facilities.QI-4, ul. Przybyszewskiego 161/163, tel. (+48) 42 642 01 09, www.body-line.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

STACJA NOWA GDYNIAThis is far and away the best fi tness complex in the region, and not unlike a UK country club. A recent renovation takes it up another notch, making it even more modern with Tech-nogym equipment. Facilities as follows: four bowling lanes, two indoor tennis courts, four badminton courts, four squash courts, an air-conditioned gym, spa and aerobics classes. English-speaking instructors are available on request. Across a connecting wooden bridge fi nd the swimming complex which is made up of three pools: children’s pool, recreational pool featuring water slide and a 25m six lane pool for the more serious swimmer. Two cafeterias, a sauna and a steam room are also there to use. A full price list can be found on their English language web page. The entire complex is open 06:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.QG-1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 21, www.nowa-gdynia.pl.


Leisure

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GOLF A&A GOLF CLUBA 24-hour indoor golf hall at ul. Wersalska 47/75. A shop for equipment and golf pro are also available. Course open until the fi rst snow.Qul. Grota-Roweckiego 8a, Pabianice, tel. (+48) 608 09 05 69, www.aagolfclub.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

HORSE RIDING SMULSKOHorse riding with tuition available in German. From 30 to 45zł per hour.Qul. Smulska 28 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 601 20 38 96, www.konie.infocentrum.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

WIKISmall stable just ten minutes away from the city centre.Qul. Prądzyńskiego 120, Łódź Górna, tel. (+48) 504 27 01 74, www.jazda-konna.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Wed, Fri 15:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS ZOOEstablished in 1938 the local zoo features 3,000 animals, including cheetahs, lions, tigers and reptiles and scores of other depressed looking creatures. In early October they are open only until 15:30.QF-3, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 632 75 79, www.zoo.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Ad-mission 11/5zł. N

RACQUET SPORTS CITY TENIS CLUBOutdoor courts with English-language coaching available upon request. Open all year round.QF-4, ul. Żeromskiego 117 (entrance form Al. Mickiewicza), tel. (+48) 42 637 65 04, www.mkt-lodz.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

SPA & BEAUTY SKYSPACESwimming, sauna and massage treatments on the top-fl oor glass encased rooftop of the designer Andels Hotel. Pool open 06:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Saunas open Mon-Fri 16:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 09:30-21:00. Massages and other treatments 16:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement.QB-1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Andel’s Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 279 15 80, www.andelslodz.com.

1905 REVOLUTION

Mix a working class culture with a hatred for Impe-rial Russia and you get a volatile mix – and so it proved in 1905, when the people of Łódź rose in rebellion against their Russkie rulers. Russia’s dis-astrous military campaign against Japan had far reaching consequences, battering an already frag-ile economy. Over 100,000 Polish workers found themselves laid off, and no city felt the pinch more than the factory city of Łódź. A wave of popular unrest spread across the Russian Empire, reach-ing a nadir with the massacre of demonstrators in St Petersburg on January 22nd. By then workers in Łódź were already on strike, and by the end of the month this discontent had morphed into street pro-tests. By this stage over 400,000 workers had laid down their tools across the country, paralysing the economy and panicking the Russian authorities. Ten-sions continued to simmer in the months that fol-lowed, finally exploding in June when Tsarist police opened fire on a workers march in Łódź, killing ten people. The funerals, held on June 20 and June 21, became the focus of further demonstrations, and the Cossack Cavalry were ordered to charge into the unruly, stone-throwing mob. Twenty five people were killed, and by nightfall what had started off as a demonstration had turned into a full scale revolt. Violence spread across the city, with insurgents united under a red banner. By June 23 the situation had escalated out of control, prompting Tsar Nicho-las II to sign a decree enforcing Martial Law in the city. Over the next couple of days battles raged in the streets of Łódź, with the revolutionaries not just facing Russian troops, but also the supporters of Roman Dmowski’s National Democratic Party. An attempt to bolster the insurgents’ numbers by sending sympathetic supporters from Warsaw was thwarted, and by June 25 the last of the barricades was captured. Official sources put civilian casualties at 151, though many locals dispute this figure as an under-estimate. The Łódź Insurrection ultimately proved a chaotic and tragic failure, although it did manage to serve as a catalyst as copycat riots and strikes across Poland quickly rose up in the wake of the failed Łódź Insurrection. The various riots and protests across Poland become collectively known as the Revolution in the Kingdom of Poland. The Poles had once more shown the Russians they wouldn’t be pushed around. Not long after, Polish Independence was finally achieved in the aftermath of WWI. Today the momentous events of 1905 are largely forgotten in Łódź, though those with a nose for history should visit the Museum of the Tradi-tion of Independence – set inside a former prison, it’s here that scores of demonstrators found them-selves incarcerated.


Leisure SPA & HEALTH CLUB IN DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹTraipsing the streets of Łódź or navigating the vast Man-ufaktura with dozens of shopping bags is an exhausting business, so a visit to the Double Tree Spa & Health Club is the ideal solution to restore mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers a full range of body treatments, massag-es and relaxing rituals. If that isn’t enough to make your weary body tingle with excitement, clients who are not guests of the hotel can also take advantage of free use of the gym and swimming pool on the day of their visit. So, go ahead and pamper yourself in this stunningly equipped and ultra-modern Spa & Health Club (Health Club open 24h). Those based in the city can also sign up for their own personal trainer who will make sure you stay in tip-top shape with an individually tailored dietary and exercise programme.QA-7, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 07, www.lodz.doubletree.com. Open 06:00 - 22:00.

ŚWIAT KOBIETŚwiat Kobiet translates to “World of Women,” but it might as well be world of pampering based on the long list of servic-es off ered. From head (haircuts and color, makeup applica-tions) to toe (pedicures, massage, even waxing) this salon leaves nothing out, and does it all in the up-and-coming Scheibler Lofts complex.QG-4, ul. Tymienieckiego 25a, tel. (+48) 603 31 33 13, www.swiatkobiet.net.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

NEW THAI CONCEPTWorn out after wandering up and down ul. Piotrkowska all day? Simply zip down to the centrally located and tranquil haven of Thai Concept to rejuvenate mind, body and spirit with a relaxing Thai massage. Take advice from the highly skilled team of Thai masseuses and you’ll soon be back on tip-top form. Complete the feel good factor with a professional manicure, pedicure or waxing. Mis-sion accomplished!QG-4, ul. Sienkiewicza 100, tel. (+48) 533 33 39 39, www.thaiconcept.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

SWIMMING AQUAPARK FALAA fantastic new addition to the Łódź leisure scene. Boast-ing 4 indoor pools with two slides and one with a wave machine, including a pool for the kids and three water play-grounds. There are also 7 saunas (ranging from Finnish with music therapy to crystal steam baths and open until 23:30 on Fridays), 1 large Jacuzzi, heated loungers, an indoor wa-ter slide a ‘wild river’ ride and an on site restaurant to keep you entertained.QF-4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 4, tel. (+48) 42 640 08 00, www.aquapark.lodz.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Prices are varied depending on dates and times. Find out more at their website at www.aquapark.lodz.pl/tickets.php.

ŁÓDŹ TRIVIA

Poland’s full of ‘well I never’ facts, and there’s no better way to impress a hot date than by telling them about Europe’s largest desert (close to Katowice), or the street in Warsaw named after Winnie the Poo. Think that’s weird, then how about the trail of gnomes in Wrocław or the gothic pyra-mid up in the town of Rapa. It comes as no surprise that Łódź also has its share of must-know facts. Piotrkowska is the source of a couple of them, being the home to Eu-rope’s largest mural, as well as being ranked as Europe’s longest pedestrian highway. Size counts in Łódź and the city is also home to Europe’s largest cemetery, Europe’s biggest urban park (Łagiewnicki) and the worlds largest Gillette factory. The oldest language school for foreign-ers can be found at Łódź university; they’ve been teach-ing the likes of you Polish since 1952, while a trip to the botanical garden will leave you in no doubt that it’s the largest in the country. Don’t go yet, there’s plenty more facts to digest. Łódź experienced the fastest population rise in the world its population doubling to over 100,000 during a six year span between 1872 and 1878. It’s also got the longest tram link in Europe, with 34 kilometres of track connecting Chocianowice to Ozorków. Finally, Łódź haters should make haste and pick up John Birmingham’s Axis of Time trilogy. The Australian scribe loathes the city so much his book has Łódź as the fi rst city to get nuked by the those pesky Russkies.


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Shopping

Shopping in Łódź centres on three main areas of the city: the thoroughfare of Piotrkowska, the modern shopping centre Galeria Łódźka, and the shopping heaven that is the Manufaktura complex. Some of the streets running paral-lel to Piotrkowska, including ul. Sienkiewicza, are good for specialist shops, such as antiques and paintings. Indeed, whisper it in Warsaw, but Łódź may in fact be Poland's top shopping destination. Whether it's malls, designer bou-tiques, dusty family stores or antique markets a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there's presents to be had for everyone on your list (includ-ing yourself ).

WIFE OR GIRLFRIENDWhen we think of what the ladies would like, one word comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the best place to fi nd handsomely shaped fossilised resin, and you can easily nab a piece that will please at A&A Dom Jubil-erski or famed Polish jeweller W. Kruk.

HUSBAND OR BOYFRIENDOne word: beer. Another word: lard. Take home some Pol-ish brews and a container of smalec (spreadable lard) and you'll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens carries tubs of the greasy stuff , while you'll fi nd every obscure Pol-ish microbrew at Piwoteka, a tiny store just off Piotrkowska that is fl oor-to-ceiling bottles.

BROTHEREuro 2012 may be over, but brothers never grow tired of of-fi cial football gear. Intersport at Manufaktura, which was the offi cial shop for licensed Euro 2012 apparel, can kit your

bro out with all the necessary national team apparel so he'll feel like his sporting best.

SISTERWhile it might not be as synonymous with European fash-ion as cities like Paris and Milan, Lodz is the home of Polish Fashion Week and a hotbed of all things stylish. Bring sis home something fashion-forward from Manufaktura, the city's 90,000m2 shopping mall that houses more than 300 stores, including several Polish fashion brands to scour for stylish treats such as Reserved.

CHILDLodz is the home of the country's famed fi lm school, and it's a great place to snap up some classic Polish DVDs of old-school cartoons like Reksio and Bolek i Lolek. Both cartoons were created during PRL times and contain no dialogue, which means kids from any culture will easily be able to follow the storylines. Find stacks of DVDs at the lo-cal Empik.

MOMGive mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions from Produkty Benedyktyńskie, which carries a variety of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in Kra-kow.

DADIf your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life in interesting vintage bookshops. Lodz is packed with them, and Antykwariat Komiks is one of the best for dig-ging.


Shoppingsign team Buddha to Buddha. Crystal Fashion also undertakes commission work, irrespective of how bizarre or complex your idea may be, and they have encrusted cars, snooker cues and a vacuum cleaner (really, it’s in the showroom!). Lighting, in-cluding chandeliers are another speciality of the company. Not just a store for the super-rich, many of the workshop pieces are very reasonably priced and you can even come away with a Swarovski topped pencil for an amazing 12zł!QG-4, ul. Tymienieckiego 22/24, tel. (+48) 42 648 05 77, www.crystalfashion.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

LILOUPhenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you, like Justin Bieber for example. All slightly naff but a ‘must have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas.QC-3, ul. Piotrkowska 18, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 36, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

W. KRUKPolish jewellery, amber and watches from various in-ternational brand names all worth a browse. Also at ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (D-7, Galeria Łódzka).QA-1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 661 98 05 73, www.wkruk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

YESYes jewelry stores can be found throughout Poland, and will impress with their array of accessible (Pandora) and classic (Polish amber) options. Keep an eye out for unique Polish designers.QA/B-1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufak-tura), tel. (+48) 42 617 37 27, www.yes.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIESA walk along the side streets off Piotrkowska is usually enough to fulfi l antiquarian designs, especially if you like to sift through dusty shops fi lled with overlooked treasures. If you’re planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand.

ANTYKWARIAT KOMIKSWhile it might not look like much from the outside this bookshop is packed to the rafters with all manner of old and new books and comics covering topics we’re guessing you haven’t even thought of yet. There’s so much reading material books are often stacked on the fl oor and aisles, so watch your step.QC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 50, tel. (+48) 42 630 34 57, www.antykwariat-bazar.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

ALCOHOLOf course you didn’t come to Poland just for the booze, but while you’re here it’d be rude not to check out what the country has to off er. Primarily that means vodka, with the two most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Belve-dere and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store. Others to watch for include Żubrówka - that’s the one with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka, and wiśniówka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir char-acterized by the 22 karat gold fl akes fl oating in it.

KLUB WINOHalf store, half wine bar, Klub Wino will easily appeal to wine connoisseurs who like to buy as well as taste. The store features bottles from around the world, including a small section of Polish wines.QC-5, Al. Kościuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 636 70 48, www.klubwino.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

PIWOTEKAYou’ve probably been in bathroom stalls larger than this shop, but that’s not what will grab your attention. Piwoteka is fl oor-to-ceiling beer, the kinds you can’t and don’t fi nd in the local pub (we imagine ‘Tyskie’ is a dirty word here). We’ve actually seen huddles of young men staring longingly through the window. Take it further and go inside, where you can’t turn around but you can learn a lot about the world’s best beer from the knowledgeable owner.QC-4, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 35 67 06, www.piwoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERYVodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Po-land is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked your-self a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is in any of the jewellery stores found in Manufaktura, though you’ll fi nd Piotrkowska off ering numerous opportunities as well.

A&A DOM JUBILERSKIOne look in A&A’s window and you’ll be blinded by the bling on display; anything picked up here will easily draw attention, with plenty of unique designs to choose from.QC-6, ul. Piotrkowska 146, tel. (+48) 42 637 17 83, www.domjubilerski.aia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

CRYSTAL FASHIONThe owner has 18 years of experience and training working with the world renowned Austrian Kings of Bling, Swarovski. As well as a fabulous range of jewellery and items produced in their onsite workshop, using Swarovski components and their own range of sparkling crystal, they also stock jewellery and accessories from designers such as Murano and cult Dutch de-


Shopping

GALERIA ARS NOVAA popular gallery devoted to promoting young Polish art-ists.QG-3, ul. Zgierska 4, tel. (+48) 504 02 32 42, www.arsnovagallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS BOOKSHOPA great central bookstore that boasts two titles we mention in our Lodz ghetto section: Traces of the Litzmannstadt Ghet-to and Łódź - The Golden Book.QC-1, ul. Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 42 661 46 66. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

KSIĘGARNIA E. STOMPELEnglish language bookshop.QC-2, ul. Piotrkowska 11, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 06, www.stompel.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIESEach year in October and April Polish Fashion Week takes over Lodz as the country’s most stylish citizens descend on this historic manufacturing city to fi nd out what’s hot (and what’s not). Surprised? Unassuming Lodz doesn’t seem like the kind of place you’d fi nd a catwalk, let alone hordes of fashionistas clamouring for the latest trends. Yet the city prides itself on being the country’s fashion capital, and tourists can fi nd plenty of stylish stores and boutiques ped-dling designs straight from the runway.

MOGADISHU.STORESecond-hand shops are something Łódź has in spades, though most aren’t worth braving the musty odours and messy displays to enter. Not so at Mogadishu, a store so stylish it took us several minutes to realise we were perus-ing used goods. Shoes, purses and clothes are all clean and modern in this airy, uncluttered space, and the display of handmade jewellery is a must-see.Qul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 6, tel. (+48) 698 04 53 52. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETSThere’s no better way to reminisce about your trip to Lodz than via the fl avours of the city, and bringing home local foods and beverages doesn’t have to be a daunting idea (we’re just as averse to opening a suitcase of clothing that’s been marinated in Polish vodka as you are). Plenty of Lodz’s delicacies are easily transportable and worth the haul through customs.

KRAKOWSKI KREDENSAn old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive yet ex-quisite Polish delicacies, including jams, honeys, liquors and even a tub of smalec for you diehard fans.QA-1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 630 08 84, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY WEDELA Polish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel fi rst opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the hand-made truffl es and be sure to sit for a rich chocolate drink.QA/B-1, Rynek (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIEThis shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Ab-bey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they fi nd the time. All the prod-ucts are completely natural, without pigment, and uni-laterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish only) website.Qul. Piotrkowska 200 (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 42 636 40 66, www.benedicite.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRSPolish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II.

CEPELIAYour fi rst stop for traditional (some might say tacky) souve-nirs. Amongst the tat also fi nd traditional Polish handicrafts like table cloths, ceramics, glass etc.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 41, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

INTERSPORTA sports shop that promises all the offi cial Polish national football team gear and any other sporty equipment or at-tire you might need.QA/B-1, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manu-faktura), tel. (+48) 12 444 88 88, www.intersport.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

The Historic PWN Bookshop Photo By Mat Fahrenholz


Shoppingyourself. Your fi rst point of call should be either Kuchnie Świata (fi rst fl oor) or Toscana, right next door. In the former fi nd a collection of hard-to-fi nd goodies that range from Is-raeli fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across the world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice. Toscana is a similarly upmarket delicatessen, this one selling produce straight from Italy. Even more impressive mind is the Alma supermarket, a haven that features peso sauces imported from Liguria, hams courtesy of Krakowski Kredens, countless European cheeses and over 200 global coff ee brands.After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar. Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the place for afi cionados to test cigars imported from Cuba. Another store to watch for is the Apple iSpot for all your Mac needs.Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll fi nd all manner of stores including a cobblers, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The ar-rival of restaurants Polka and Marcello is also a sure sign that Manufaktura has arrived. There’s also a newly added casino for those feeling lucky in Lodz. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance.QA/B-1, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www.manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

SHOPPING MALLS GALERIA ŁÓDZKAOpened in 2002 Galeria Łódzka became the fi rst modern shopping centre in the city, with some 160 retail units oc-cupying a space of 45,000 sqm. On the fashion front con-sumers needs are met by stores like Zara, H&M, Reserved, KappAhl and New Look, though those with credit cards tend to head in one direction alone: Peek & Cloppenburg, purveyors of a range of designer tags that include Boss Black and Boss Orange, Cerutti, Gaultier and Lacoste. Other needs come catered for in the shape of Home & You and cosmetic and beauty store Drogeria Natura. Added in the last year has been the fi rst Stradivarius shop in town, as well as a store operated by Spanish clothing brand Pull & Bear. Food-wise there’s the standard mall mix, with all the big Yank franchises represented, as well as Coff eeheaven and North Fish. Ranked as Europe’s Best Shopping Centre in the 2004 ICSC Awards GL have recently realised their expansion plans, fi tting in even more stores than before. It’s walking distance from Piotrkowska, though car owners have the choice of 1,400 parking spaces.QD-7, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23, tel. (+48) 42 639 15 00, www.galeria-lodzka.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

MANUFAKTURAFilled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to the otherwise red brick architecture. The entire complex covers 27 hectares, and the mall has been split into four themes - industrial, cinema, design and textile - so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the crèche found just off the Rynek, close to the Bella Napoli restaurant.Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfi ger, H&M, Timberland and a newly launched Adidas superstore. In total 306 retail units are occupied with other tenants in-cluding the Smyk toy store, Saturn, EMPiK and RTV EURO AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are draw-ing processions of spenders, but a top selection of special-ist stores that you’ll be lucky to fi nd elsewhere, let alone under one roof. If you’re not ready to put your trust in Lódz’s restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do better

TAX FREE SHOPPING

Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum to-tal purchase value with VAT per Tax

Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the fi nal point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com.


Directory

DENTISTSINTERSTOMQC-5, Al. Kościuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 632 57 11, www.interstom.pl.

EMERGENCY ROOMSSZPITAL IM. M. KOPERNIKA W ŁODZIQG-5, ul. Pabianicka 62, tel. (+48) 42 689 51 81, www.kopernik.lodz.pl.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLSINTERNATIONAL PRIMARY SCHOOL OF INNOVA-TIVE TRAINING IN ŁÓDŹQG-3, ul. Pomorska 83/85, tel. (+48) 501 32 32 57, www.szkola.ipt.pl.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLSAKCENTQul. Żwirki 17, tel. (+48) 42 637 48 24, www.akcent.win.pl.

SCHOOL OF POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹQH-3, ul. Matejki 21/23, tel. (+48) 42 635 47 00, www.sjpdc.uni.lodz.pl.

LOCAL GOVERNMENTBUREAU OF PROMOTION, TOURISM AND INTERNATIONAL COOPERATIONQC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 87, tel. (+48) 42 638 44 76, www.uml.lodz.pl.

CITY OF ŁÓDŹ OFFICEQC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 40 00, www.uml.lodz.pl.

CUSTOMS OFFICE IN ŁÓDŹQI-5, ul. Lodowa 97, tel. (+48) 42 638 82 22, www.lodz.ic.gov.pl.

24-HOUR PHARMACIESCITOQA-4, ul. Żeromskiego 39, tel. (+48) 42 633 48 29, www.apteka-cito.com.pl.

FAMILIAQG-3, ul. Lutomierska 115a, tel. (+48) 42 640 71 27.

24-HOUR SHOPS U BRONKAQG-3, ul. Wojska Polskiego 82, tel. (+48) 42 616 07 60.

ZETKAQE-7, ul. Kilińskiego 153.

CONFERENCE ORGANISERSBOROWIECKI HOTELQF-3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.hotelborowiecki.pl.

DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹQA-7, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www.doubletree3.hilton.com.

IBIS HOTELQD-7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www.ibis.com.

SYNERGIA BUSINESS CENTERQC-7, Al. Kościuszki 103/105, tel. (+48) 695 58 11 81, www.synergia.lodz.pl.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIESAUSTRIAQul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.

DENMARKQB-3, ul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.

GERMANYQul. Jazdów 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, www.warszawa.diplo.de.

HUNGARYQul. Chopina 2, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 537 56 60, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/warsaw.

LATVIAQul. Królowej Aldony 19, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 617 11 05, www.mfa.gov.lv/pl/poland/.

UNITED KINGDOMQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.

Artur Rubinstein Monument Photo By Mat Fahrenholz


DirectoryMARSHAL’S OFFICEQD-6, Al. Piłsudskiego 8, tel. (+48) 42 663 33 80, www.lodzkie.pl.

MAYOR’S OFFICEThe President of the city is a woman called Hanna Zdan-owska.QC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 41 15, www.uml.lodz.pl.

VOIVODSHIP OFFICEQC-5, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 664 10 00, www.lodzkie.eu.

POST OFFICESPOCZTA POLSKAQF-4, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 34, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

POCZTA POLSKAQB-4, Al. Kościuszki 5/7, tel. (+48) 42 632 41 05, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

POCZTA POLSKAQD-5, ul. Tuwima 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 58 16, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICSESKULAPQD-4, ul. Traugutta 25, tel. (+48) 42 632 91 56, www.eskulap-lekarze.pl.

SALVEQC-5, ul. Struga 3, tel. (+48) 42 633 56 61, www.salve.pl.

REAL ESTATEDSI.COM NIERUCHOMOŚCIQB-3, ul. Więckowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 508 06 26 60, www.dsi.com.pl.

ESTATEQB-3, ul. Piotrkowska 22, tel. (+48) 42 630 54 23, www.estate.lodz.pl.

MEZCOMPUQC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 71/3, tel. (+48) 42 634 02 02, www.mezcompu.com.pl.

OBER-HAUS REAL ESTATE ADVISORSQD-7, ul. Piotrkowska 276, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 25, www.ober-haus.pl.

TOBACO PARKQF-4, ul. Kopernika 62, tel. (+48) 42 637 22 33, www.arche.pl.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

Currency exchange offi ces (‘Kantor’) are easy to fi nd in Łódź, but as with any international destination, it’s im-perative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fl eeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the air-port where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offi ces that won’t rip you off , and don’t take a commission.

KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUPQD-7, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Galeria Łódzka), tel. (+48) 42 636 01 62. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUPQA/B-1, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 634 84 98. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

RELIGIOUS SERVICESREFORMED CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ EWANGELICKO REFORMOWANY)QG-4, ul. Radwańska 37, tel. (+48) 42 637 74 44, www.lodz.reformowani.net.pl. Services on Sundays and holy days at 10:30.

RELOCATION COMPANIESCORSTJENS WORLDWIDE MOVERS GROUPQul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00, www.corstjens.com.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETORSTRADOQE-4, ul. Narutowicza 35 lok.24, tel. (+48) 42 635 35 50, www.trado.pl.

TRANSLATERIAQB-6, Plac Zwycięstwa 2, 2nd fl oor, tel. (+48) 662 44 99 84, www.translateria.pl.


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Hotels

feeding each other molecular cuisine then choose NoBo Hotel, whose on-site restaurant Kolory Wina has perfected the modern menu.

BARGAIN Linat Orchim off er beds from 120 zlots upwards and while the accommodation is nowhere near as character-fi lled as the building it’s nonetheless a great deal. Hostels have fi nally arrived in Lodz, and you can fi nd sparkling new options right in the heart of the city now with Cynamon hostel.

GROUPS Check the Focus, a super mid-range option that’s both modern and mass-market in style to easily accomodate large parties with plenty of space. For something closer to town there’s the Campanile. And newcomer Holiday Inn is a dazzling option with modern rooms on central Pi-otrkowska for quick access to all the action in the city.

HISTORY No hotel boasts a fi ner history than the Grand, a hulking art nouveau building overlooking Piotrkowska. Famous guests aplenty here, from Tito to... Himmler. And don’t forget the Centrum, itself famous for its associations with David Lynch - book into his suite, why not. If you’re a fan of fi lm history then Stare Kino Cinema Residence is most certainly the place for you. The comfortable Hotel and Apartment rooms are tastefully designed and steeped in history as it was in this very building the fi rst Movie Theatre in Poland appeared at the beginning of the 20th Century.

For many years the hotel sector in Lodz didn’t refl ect its position as the country’s third biggest city. While the sky-scraping 5-star international brands have still yet to arrive here, the sector has seen a marked improvement in recent years with a series of new and renovated hotels opening their doors. And with the improved rooms you can expect improved service as well with English much more widely spoken and with extras such as wireless internet, spas, swimming pools and gyms now coming as standard in many places. With rates tending to fl uctuate it’s well worth taking a look at the hotelcalculator price comparison func-tion on the pages of lodz.inyourpocket.com to see what rates the major booking engines are off ering.

Here are a few suggestions depending on what you are looking for:

SPLURGE The city lacks the skyscrapers of neighbouring Warsaw or the honeymoon retreats of twee Krakow, but fi nding de-cent lodgings is no longer the mission impossible of yes-teryear. Topping the lot is the Andels, an internationally acclaimed behemoth set in a former factory that issues guests iPhones for navigation purposes. Further afi eld Stacja Nowa Gdynia is a great country club style retreat set in a wooded area with lakeside views.

COUPLES One choice really, and that’s the Revelo, a great boutique hotel with rooms themed on the inter-war period. It’s not as luxurious as the prices suggest, but it’s still a place with oodles of character and plenty of charm. If you prize spoon-


Hotels

CREAM OF THE CROP ANDEL’S HOTEL ŁÓDŹQB-1, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 279 10 00, www.andelslodz.com. 277 rooms (220 singles, 220 doubles, 52 apartments, 4 Maisonette Suite, 1 Mai-sonette Deluxe). PTH6UFKDXCw hhhh

UPMARKET AMBASADOR CENTRUMQE-6, Al. Piłsudskiego 29, tel. (+48) 42 677 15 20, www.hotelambasador.eu. 143 rooms (71 singles, 68 doubles, 4 apartments). THUFLKDC hhhh

BOROWIECKIQF-3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.hotelborowiecki.pl. 56 rooms (18 singles, 36 doubles, 2 apartments). PH6UFK hhh

DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹQA-7, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www.lodz.doubletree.com. 200 rooms (189 singles, 189 doubles, 10 suites, 1 Presidential Apartment). PT6UFK�DCw hhhh

HOLIDAY INN LODZQG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00, www.hilodz.com. 127 rooms (117 singles, 117 doubles, 10 suites). PTHUFKD hhhh

NOBO HOTELQF-2, ul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy, tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl. 25 rooms (24 singles, 24 dou-bles, 1 apartment). PTH6ULK hhh

NOVOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUMQD-7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11a, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00, www.novotel.com. 161 rooms (160 singles, 144 doubles, 1 apartment). PT6UFK hhhh

SYMBOL KEY

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled

K Restaurant L Guarded parking on site

D Sauna w Wellness

6 Animal friendly X Smoking rooms available

C Swimming pool


Hotels QUBUS HOTEL ŁÓDŹQB-7, Al. Mickiewicza 7, tel. (+48) 42 275 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. 78 rooms (55 singles, 23 doubles). PTH6ULKX hhh

REVELOQD-7, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86 86, www.revelo.pl. 3 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 1 apartment). HLK

STACJA NOWA GDYNIAQF-1, ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 61, www.hotelnowagdynia.pl. 19 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 1 apartment). PTH6UFLKD�Cw hhh

MID-RANGE BOUTIQUE HOTELQC-4, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 8, tel. (+48) 42 630 63 15, www.hotels24.com.pl. 67 rooms (20 singles, 40 doubles, 4 triples, 2 suites, 1 apartment).

CAMPANILEQE-6, Al. Piłsudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42 664 26 00, www.campanile-lodz.pl. 104 rooms (104 singles, 104 dou-bles). PTH6UKX hh

CUD MIÓD GUESTROOMSQF-3, Al. Włókniarzy 151, tel. (+48) 665 18 90 50, www.cudmiod.pl. 5 rooms (5 singles, 5 doubles). 6K

FOCUSQA-7, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www.focushotels.pl. 110 rooms (49 singles, 54 doubles, 7 tri-ples). PTH6UFKDX hhh

GRAND HOTELQC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 42 633 99 20, www.grandlodz.pl. 89 rooms (41 singles, 27 doubles, 14 suites, 7 apartments). PTH6ULK hhh

HOTEL FLORAQul. Szczecińska 111 (entrance from ul. Hodowlana, Bałuty), tel. (+48) 42 655 72 45, www.fl ora-hotel.eu. 18 rooms (18 singles, 17 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). 6ULK hhh

IBISQD-7, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www.ibis.com. 208 rooms (208 singles, 208 doubles). PTH6UK hh

Full contents online:


KSIĘŻY MŁYN

KSIĘŻY MŁYN - EDWARD HERBST PALACEOne of the most intriguing places in Poland, Księży Młyn (Priest’s Mill) underwent a massive overhaul and is now open to the public. Księży Młyn was fi rst mentioned in 1484 in reference to a mill built on the Jasien River in 1387. Passing from family to family the site grew in size over the years until the invading Prussians com-mandeered it in 1793. The original complex was burnt to the ground on May 9, 1822 and three years later the property was offi cially incorporated into the Łódka settle-ment. The same year the Polish cotton-spinning specialist Krystian Wendisch began building a new mill on the site, which was by this time a two-kilometre street called Przędzalniana (Spinning Mill Street), on what’s now ul. Tymienieckiego. In 1830 Wendisch died, the mill was handed over to the state, and operated for a further 12 years until modern steam-powered competition forced it to close. Three years later Karol Moes, who would later go on to become one of the city’s leading industrialists, turned the mill into a cloth factory, switching to steam in 1854. The American Civil War brought about an inter-ruption in cotton imports and Poland’s textile industry was in crisis during the years between 1861-64, and again the factory closed. Reopened once more in 1868 by Teodor Krusche, the mill burnt down again in 1870. Meanwhile in 1854 the 28-year-old Belgian-German Karol Scheibler arrived in Łódź. In October 1870 Scheibler bought Moes’ burnt-out mill for 40,000 rubles and began radi-cally transforming what was by now a 500ha area. Here Scheibler built not only mills, including the monster four-storey Pfaff endorf complete with 1,200 looms and 70,000 spindles and a weaving plant, but an entire gas-works to light his factories and the neighbouring workers’ houses too - the fi rst private gasworks in the city. By now the southern end of the complex was known as Manu-faktura Księży Młyn. In 1874 tragedy struck again, and the main mill burnt down. Not discouraged, Scheibler invested even more money into what was turning rap-idly into an entire city within the city. In 1875, Scheibler’s daughter married Edward Herbst, and the young couple moved into the adjoining Italian renaissance-style Księży Młyn Residence. At the height of its existence in 1879, Łódź’s Księży Młyn included all of the above plus more residential buildings and a wall around the entire com-plex that was locked at night. In 1881 Karol Scheibler died. Księży Młyn continued to grow, with the opening of a hospital (again another fi rst, this being the fi rst factory hospital in Poland), and on June 20, 1884, Łódź’s fi rst vol-untary fi re brigade unit was founde inside Scheibler’s fac-tory. WWII destroyed most of Księży Młyn, although some of it, including a street of original worker’s tenements and the Rezydencja survived.QH-4, ul. Przędzalniana 72, tel. (+48) 42 674 96 98, www.palac-herbsta.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 6/3zł. Thu free for all exhibits.


Hotels LINAT ORCHIM DOM GOŚCINNYQC-2, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 61, www.linatorchim-lodz.internetdsl.pl. 26 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 26 triples, 26 quads). T6

MAZOWIECKIQG-4, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, tel. (+48) 42 637 43 33, www.hotelmazowiecki.com. 105 rooms (63 singles, 38 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). H6UK hh

SAVOYQC-4, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 42 632 93 60, www.centrumhotele.pl. 91 rooms (57 singles, 33 doubles, 1 apartment). TH6U hh

ŚWIATOWITQC-6, Al. Kościuszki 68, tel. (+48) 42 636 36 37, www.centrumhotele.pl. 201 rooms (125 singles, 74 doubles, 1 quad, 2 apartments). PTH6UK hhh

TOBACO HOTELQF-4, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.hoteltobaco.pl. 115 rooms (83 singles, 32 doubles). TH6UFLKD hhh

ZAJAZD RUBINQG-6, ul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689 25 90, www.hotelrubin.pl. 11 rooms (1 single, 6 doubles, 1 triple, 2 suites, 1 apartment). 6K hhh

ul. Piotrkowska 21 90-406 Łódź

tel.: +48/42/633-80-80 fax. +48/42/633-80-10

www.hometravel.pl

Your Home in Travel!

Central location - Piotrkowska Street

Free parking available

Wifi and satellite TV - free of charge

HOTEL CALCULATOR

Get the Best Rates on poland.inyourpocket.com

The concept of In Your Pocket has always been to provide our readers and website users with as much relevant information as possible about the city they are visiting and to allow them to make up your own minds. In addition to the hundreds of hotel listings, with full descriptions and up-to-date details (researched every 2-4 months), available on our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - we also off er a hotel price comparison function on our website. Called HotelCalculator, this free service compares hotel prices for the nights selected from across dozens of diff erent web booking engines such as bookings.com, activehotels.com, laterooms.com and hoteladvisor.com. You are then presented with the best rates available online, which are often well below the offi cial rack rates. Once you select the rate you want, you are transferred to the relevant site, through which you book directly. It couldn’t be simpler, more eff ective or more in keeping with our policy of providing unbiased information to our readers. Take a look at poland.inyourpocket.com the next time you are searching for a room in Poland and see what In Your Pocket with HotelCalculator can fi nd for you.


Hotels

BUDGET ADRIAQG-5, ul. Obywatelska 152, tel. (+48) 42 686 47 94, www.adriahotel.pl. 11 rooms (3 singles, 5 doubles, 1 triple, 2 apartments). 6L

CENTRUM SZKOLENIOWO – KONFERENCYJNE UNIWERSYTETU ŁÓDZKIEGOQH-1, ul. Kopcińskiego 16/18, tel. (+48) 42 635 54 90, www.csk.uni.lodz.pl. 76 rooms (72 singles, 54 doubles, 4 apartments). PTHK

MHOTELQul. Św. Teresy 111 (via ul. Szczecińska in Bałuty), tel. (+48) 42 652 99 90, www.mhotel.eu. 39 rooms (4 singles, 30 doubles, 2 triples, 3 apartments). H6K hhh

POLONIA PALASTQD-3, ul. Narutowicza 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 87 73, www.centrumhotele.pl. 83 rooms (30 singles, 46 doubles, 7 triples). TH6U hh

APARTMENTS ARRIVIA BED & BREAKFASTQD-4, ul. Narutowicza 24/34, tel. (+48) 602 78 33 44, www.arrivia.eu. 4 rooms (4 apartments). T

CITY CENTER ROOMSQG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 208 08 08, www.citycenterrooms.pl. 24 rooms (24 apartments). T

GOOD TIME APARTHOTELQG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 32 32, www.good-time.com.pl. 22 rooms (22 apartments). T6X

HOME ON YOUR WAY! NOCLEG W ŁODZI Z WIDOKIEM NA BAŁTYK

(ask a Pole to explain)

www.arrivia.euŁódź, Narutowicza 24, apt. 34

next to Lodz Philharmonic

Booking: [email protected]

tel. (+48) 42 661 01 00 or (+48) 602 78 33 44

Stare Kino Cinema Residence

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Hotels HOME&TRAVELQC-3, ul. Piotrkowska 21, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 80, www.hometravel.pl. 18 rooms (18 apartments). PT

RENT-A-PADQB-3, ul. Próchnika 24, tel. (+48) 665 11 81 61, www.noclegi-lodz.com. 13 rooms (13 apartments).

STARE KINO CINEMA RESIDENCEQG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 27 27, www.cinemahotel.pl. 40 rooms (40 apartments). TH6

HOSTELS BOUTIQUE HOSTELQG-4, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, tel. (+48) 512 22 10 22, www.hotels24.com.pl. 40 rooms (10 singles, 22 doubles, 8 triples). K

CYNAMON HOSTELQD-5, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 42 209 34 79, www.cynamonhostel.pl. 25 rooms (2 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples, 3 quads, 72 dorm beds). TH6N

MUSIC HOSTELQC-4, ul. Piotrkowska 60, tel. (+48) 533 53 32 63, www.music-hostel.pl. 6 rooms (2 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads, 12 dorm beds). 6

CYNAMON HOSTELŁódź, ul. Sienkiewicza 40

tel. 884 315 910, 42 209 34 79

facebook.com/cynamonhostel

www.cynamonhostel.pl

POLA NEGRI

One Polish name is particularly associated with the ad-vent of fi lm and Hollywood glamour, and that name is Pola Negri. From the 1910s-1940s Negri achieved worldwide recognition as the fi rst European actress to be invited to Hollywood and a classic femme fatale during the golden era of fi lms.

The beginning of Negri’s life is as dramatic as any Holly-wood fi lm: born in Lipno in central Poland as Barbara Apolonia Chałupiec, Negri was the youngest of three children and the only one to survive. Negri’s father was exiled to Siberia by the Russians for alleged revolution-ary activity, which sent the young Negri and her moth-er to Warsaw to scrape by in poverty. After storming the Warsaw stage scene Negri’s popularity helped the actress launch a silent fi lm career in Berlin. The popu-larity of her 1919 fi lm Madame Dubarry in the United States brought down the embargo on German fi lms in America. After several more successes in German cinema Paramount invited Negri to bring her talents to Hollywood, and her 1922 contract with the fi lm company was the fi rst to be signed by a European star.

Negri’s career with Paramount included fi lms like The Spanish Dancer and Forbidden Paradise which came out right before the industry moved away from silent movies and into the “talkies.” Negri starred in the lacklustre A Woman Commands, but her song “Paradise” from the fi lm became a hit and took Ne-gri on a Vaudeville tour to promote the song. Negri also returned to Europe in the late 1930s to make fi lms like Fanatisme and Mazurka, the latter of which was a favourite of Adolf Hitler. The war sent Negri back to the United States, where she landed the role of high-strung opera singer Genya Smetana in the 1943 com-edy Hi Diddle Diddle.

Almost as famous for her love aff airs as for her screen roles, Negri counted Charlie Chaplin and Rod La Rocque among her conquests (not to mention two husbands, Count Eugeniusz Dambski and Georgian prince Serge Mdivani) but claimed Rudolph Valen-tino was the love of her life. The two were introduced by William Randolph Hearst and were lovers until Valentino’s death in 1926.

Negri eventually retired from Hollywood in the 1950s and moved with her oil heiress friend Margaret West to San Antonio, Texas where she lived for the remain-der of her life. While Negri would occasionally recon-nect with Hollywood for a fi lm role she largely stayed out of the public eye, dying on August 1, 1987 from a bout with pneumonia. Today Negri is memorialised on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, on Poland’s Walk of Fame in Łódź and in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre in Los Angeles, where she was the 11th star to place her hands and footprints in cement.

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All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

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Street Register1 Maja, al. A/B-3 (F-3)

11-go Listopada F-1

3 Maja F/G-6

6 Sierpnia A/C-4 (F-3/4)

Abramowskiego G/H-4

Aksamitna I-1

Andrzejewskiej H/I-4

Anstadta, al. E-1/2

Anyżowa F-1

Barlickiego, pl. A-4

Bartoka I-4

Bednarska G-5

Bema, gen. F/G-1/2

Beskidzka H/I-2

Biegańskiego F/G-2

Boya-Żeleńskiego G-2

Bracka G-2

Bratysławska F-4

Broniewskiego G/H-5

Bronisławy G/H-5

Brukowa F-1/2

Brzezińska H/I-2

Brzeźna G-4

Brzoskwiniowa F-1

Brzózki, ks. F-2/3

Budy I-2

Bystrzycka H-3

Centralna G/H-2

Cieszyńska F/G-5

Cicha H-4

Codzienna H-5

Cyprysowa F-1

Czahary F-5

Czapli G-1

Czechosłowacka H-3

Czernika I-4

Dąbrowskiego G/I-5

Dąbrowskiego, gen., pl. E-3

Dobois F-5/6

Dobrzyńska F-5

Doły H-3

Dostawcza H/I-5

Dowborczyków E-5/6

Drewnowska A/B-1 (F/G-3)

Edwarda H-3

Elektronowa F-3

Eugeniusza F/G-5

Folwarczana G-2

Franciszka z Asyżu, św. F-5

Franciszkańska D-1 (G-2/3)

Gandhiego F-3

Gdańska A/B-2/7 (G-3/4)

Giewont I-2/3

Gładka G-5/6

Gojawiczyńskiej H-5

Góralska G-2

Górnicza G-2

Górska I-3

Grota-Roweckiego H-4

Grunwaldzka F-2

Harcerzy Legionistów, al.

D-5

Haśka I-4

Herbowa H-2

Hipoteczna F-2

Hoff manowej F-6

Hotelowa C-4

Chałubinskiego H/I-2

Chłędowskiego H-5

Chmurna H-3

Infl ancka G/H-2

Ireny H-5

Jabłoniowa F-1

Jakuba C/D-1

Jana Pawła II, al. F/G-4/5

Janosika H/I-2/3

Jaracza C/E-3 (G/H-3)

Jarzynowa F-3

Jastrzębia G-1

Jerzego, św. F-3

Jesionowa F-1

Józefa H-4

Józewskiego, al. C-6

Julianowska F/G-2

Kacza G-1

Kadłubka H-5

Kalinowa F-2

Karpacka G-5

Kasprzaka F-3

Kasztelańska G/H-1/2

Kilińskiego D/E-1/7 (G-3/5)

Klonowa F-3

Kniaziewicza F-2

Kołobrzeska F-5

Kołowa G/H-5

Komorniki H-5

Komuny Paryskiej, pl. C/D-5

Koniakowska H-2

Konstantynowska F-3/4

Konstytucyjna H-3

Kopcińskiego G/H-3/4

Kopernika A/B-5/6 (F/G-4)

Kościuszki, al.

B/C-4/7 (G-3/4)

Kossaka H-5

Kostki G-4

Kosynierów Gdyńskich

G-5/6

Krakusa G-5

Krasnoludków G-1

Kraszewskiego G-5

Krecia F/G-1

Krokusowa H-3

Królewska G-6

Kryształowa H-1/2

Krzemieniecka F-4

Książka H-1/2

Kurczaki H-6

Kusocińskiego F-4

Łabędzia F/G-1

Łagiewnicka G-1/3

Łąkowa A-6/7

Lawinowa H/I-3

Łazowskiego G-5/6

Legionów A/B-2 (G-3)

Leszczynowa G-2

Limanowskiego F/G-2/3

Lipowa A-3/6

Liściasta F-1/2

Listopadowa I-2/3

Lodowa H/I-4/5

Łodzianka H-1

Łomnicka H-2/3

Łomżyńska G-5

Łozowa F-1

Łukaszewska H/I-1

Łukowa F/G-5/6

Łupkowa H-1/2

Lutomierska F/G-3

Macierzanki F-1

Mała A-4

Małachowskiego H-3

Maratońska F-4/5

Marczyńskich F/G-1

Marysińska G-2/3

Maszynowa I-4

Matejki H-3

Mazowiecka H-3

Mickiewicza, al.

A/C-7 (F/G-4)

Mielczarskiego A-2

Milionowa G/H-4

Miodowa G-1

Modrzewskiego G-5

Moniuszki C/D-4

Morelowa G-2

Moskuliki H/I-1/2

Nad Niemnem I-3

Narutowicza

C/E-3/4 (G/H-3)

Nawrot C/E-6 (G-4)

Niciarniana H-3/4

Niedziałkowskiego F-6

Nowa G-4

Nowe Sady F-4/5

Nowomiejska C-1/2 (G-3)

Obywatelska F/G-5

Odrzańska F-6

Ogrodowa A/B-1/2 (G-3)

Okólna H/I-1/2

Okopowa G-2

Okrętowa H-2

Okulickiego F-1

Opolska H/I-2

Organizacji WiN G-3

Orkana H-5

Orla D/E-7

Orzelskiej H/I-1

Pabianicka F/G-5/6

Pacanowskiej C-1

Paderewskiego G-5

Parkowa F/G-4

Pawilońska G-1/2

Pieniny I-3

Pienista F-5

Pietrusińskiego F-3

Piłsudskiego, marsz., al.

D/E-6/7 (G/H-4)

Piotrkowska C-2/7 (G-3/5)

Piramowicza D-3

Piwnika H-4

Płocka G/H-5

Podgórna H-5

Podhalańska H-5

Podmiejska G-5

Podrzeczna B/C-1

Pogonowskiego A-3/6

Pojezierska F-2

Politechniki, al. G-4/5

Polna F-2/3

Północna C/E-1 (G-3)

Polskiej Org. Wojskowej

E-2/4

Pomorska C/E-2 (F/I-3)

Poprzeczkowa G-2

Potokowa I-3

Poziomków F-1

Poznańska G/H-4/5

Prądzyńskiego F-5

Prezydenta H/I-2

Próchnika A/C-2/3

Promienna G/H-2

Pryncypialna G-5/6

Przedświt G-5/6

Przędzalniana G-3/4

Przepiórcza G-1

Przewodnia F/G-6

Przybyszewskiego G/I-4

Przyjaźni, al. I-4

Przyrodnicza F/G-2

Przyszkole F/G-5

Pstrągowa F-1

Pszczelna G-1

Pszczyńska H/I-3

Pustynna F-5

Puszkina I-4/5

Radwańska G-4

Retkińska F-4

Rewolucji 1905 r. C/E-2

Rodakowskiego H-5

Rogowska H-1

Rokicińska H/I-4

Rolnicza H-5

Romana G-5/6

Roosevelta C/D-6

Róż, al. G-2

Rubinsteina, dr, al. C-4

Ruchliwa G-5/6

Rumuńska F-2

Rybacka G-2

Rydla H-5

Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz.

H-4/5

Rynkowskiej, al. B/C-6

Rzgowska G/H-5/6

Sałacińskiego, pl. E-4

Sanocka G-5

Sawickiego I-1

Senatorska G/H-4

Schillera, al. C/D-5

Sianokosy F-1

Sienkiewicza D-4/7 (G-3/4)

Sieradzka G-5

Sikorskiego, gen. F/G-1

Skalna I-3

Składowa D/E-4

Skłodowskiej-Curie A/B-5/6

Skowrończa G-1

Skrzydlata G-1/2

Śląska G/I-5

Smugowa D/E-1 (G-3)

Smutna H-3

Śnieżna H-2

Solna D-1/2

Sowińskiego, gen. F/G-2

Sporna G-2/3

Srebrzyńska F/G-3

Stalowa G-2

Stanisława F-5/6

Stary Rynek C-1

Stawowa F-1

Sterlinga E-1/4

Stocka G-4

Stokowska H-2/3

Strażnicza H-5/6

Struga A/C-5 (F-4)

Strusia G/H-1/2

Strycharska G-5

Stryka H-3

Strykowska G/I-1/3

Strzelecka H-6

Świetlana F-2

Świętojańska F-5/6

Świtezianki F/G-1

Szenwalda G-5

Szletyńskiego, al. D-5

Szternfelda H-5/6

Tagorea G-5

Tamka H-3

Targowa E-4/5

Taternicza H-2/3

Tatrzańska H-4/5

Techniczna I-5

Telefoniczna H/I-3

Teresy od Dzieciątka

Jezus, św. F-2

Tomaszowska I-5/6

Traugutta C/D-4 (G-3)

Trybunalska G-6

Turza H-4

Tuszyńska G-5/6

Tuwima C/E-5 (F/G-3/4)

Tymienieckiego G/H-4

Unii Lubelskiej, al. F-3/4

Urzędnicza F/G-2

Wałbrzyska G-2

Walickiego, al. D-5

Wandurskiego H-4/5

Wapienna F-3

Warszawska G/H-1/2

Wedmanowej H-5

Węglowa E-4

Widzewska H-4

Więckowskiego A/B-3

Wiejska H-4

Wielkopolska F-2

Wieniawskiego F-4/5

Wigury C/E-7 (G-4)

Wiklinowa F-1

Wileńska F-1

Wiosenna G-5

Wiośniana H-5

Wiślicka I-2/3

Włókiennicza C/D-3

Włókniarzy F-1/4

Wodna G-3/4

Wojska Polskiego G/H-2/3

Wolborska C/D-1 (G-3)

Wólczańska

B/C-3/7 (G-4/5)

Wolności, pl. C-2

Wróblewskiego F/G-4

Wschodnia C-1/4

Wycieczkowa G/H-1/2

Wypoczynkowa H-2

Wysoka G-3/4

Wyszyńskiego F-4

Zagajnicza G-2

Zachodnia B-1/4

Zamenhofa A/C-6

Zamojska F-5

Zamorska F-5

Zaolziańska G-5

Zarzewska G-4/5

Zaścianek Bohatyrowicze

H/I-1

Zbaraska H-5

Zbąszyńska F-2

Zbiorowa H-4

Zbocze I-3

Żeromskiego

A/B-2 (F/G-3/4)

Zgierska F/G-1/3

Zgodna G-5/6

ZHP, al. C-6

Zielona A/C-4 (F-3)

Zjazdowa I-1/2

Źlebowa H/I-3

Zmienna H-2

Żmichowskiej H-5

Źródłowa G-3

Żucza G-1

Żwirki C-7 (F/G-4)

Żwirowa H-5

Zygmunta H-5/6


IndexA&A Dom Jubilerski 63

A&A Golf Club 60

Adria 72

Alte Szil Synagogue 57

Ambasador Centrum 69

American Bull 38

Anatewka 25, 39

andel's Hotel Łódź 69

Angelo 23

Antykwariat Komiks 63

Aquapark Fala 61

Arena Laser Games 37

Arrivia Bed & Breakfast 72

Art Museum - ms¹ 50

Art Museum - ms² 38

Bałucki Rynek 58

Bawełna 39

Bedroom 32

Bella Napoli 39

Bierhalle 39

Body Line Group 59

Bookshop 64

Borowiecki 69

Boutique Hostel 73

Boutique Hotel 70

Breadnia 21, 27

Buddha Pub 29

Byk Burger Grill & Restaurante 19

Cabaret Club 32

Cafe Julian Tuwim w Chatce Ech 27

Campanile 70

Catholic Cathedral 48

Central Museum of Textiles 50

Centrum Szkoleniowo – Konferencyjne

Uniwersytetu Łódzkiego 72

Centrum Wspinaczkowe Stratosfera 37

Cepelia 64

Cesky Film Restaurant & Pub 20

Chmielowa Dolina 29

Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed

Mary 48

Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed

MarySt. Mary’s Parish Church 58

Cinema City 37

City Center Rooms 72

City Tenis Club 60

City Tourist Information Centre 49

Club Shisha Sahara 32

Coffeeheaven 42

Crystal Fashion 63

Cud Miód 25

Cud Miód Guestrooms 70

Cynamon Hostel 73

Czekolada 32

Decalogue Monument 57

Delight Restaurant 40

DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 69

Drukarnia Skład Wina & Chleba 44

Dzika Kaczka 22

Empik 37, 54

Experymentarium 37

Focus 70

Foto Cafe 102 29

Fountain of Love 52

Four Colors 22

Frame Pool & Snooker Club 59

French Potato 40

Galeria Ars Nova 64

Galeria Łódzka 65

Galicja 40

Ganesh 40

Ganimedes 45

Good Time ApartHotel 72

Gossip Club & Lounge 32

Grakula 37

Grand Hotel 70

Green Way 40

Grupa Fabricum 49

Gypsy Camp 57

Hana Sushi 41

Helenowek Orphanage 58

Holiday Inn Lodz 69

Home&Travel 73

Hotel Flora 70

Hot Spoon 41

House of Sushi 25

Ibis 70

IMAX 37

Intersport 64

Irish Pub 22, 29

Iron Horse 30

Istanbul Tajmahal 21

Jaffa - hummus & the other stories 25

Jaracz's Chair 48

Jazda!Park 59

Jewish Cemetery 57

Jewish Community Centre 58

Julian Tuwim’s Bench 48

Kamari 21

Karczma u Chochoła 26

Kebab House 25

Kinderplaneta 59

Klub Wino 33, 63

Krakowski Kredens 64

Księgarnia E. Stompel 64

Księży Młyn - Edward Herbst Palace 70

Kuchnie Świata 37

Łagiewnicki Forest 52

La Vende 41

Le Loft 27

© Manufaktura


Index

FEATURES INDEX

1905 Revolution 61

Currency exchange 67

Facts & Figures 11

Hotel Calculator 71

Księży Młyn 70

Language 12

Łódź Trivia 61

Market Values 11

Pola Negri 73

Rickshaws 41

Tipping Tribulations 32

Welcome to... Woodge! 6

Leon Schiller National Higher School of

Film, Television and Theatre 53

Lilou 63

Linat Orchim Dom Gościnny 71

Litera Cafe 27

Łódź Kaliska 30

Łódź Walk of Fame 53

Lokal 26

Lordi's Club & Foo Foo Bar 32

Loża Club 33

Magazyn 82 30

Magnes 33

Mała Litera cafe 27

Malinowa 22

Manufaktura 65

Max Ice & Coffee 42

Mazowiecki 71

McDonald's 41

Mebloteka Yellow 45

Mega Burger 41

Meg Mu 44

Meimei 41

mHotel 72

Mili Ludzie 27

Miś Uszatek Monument 49

MITMI restobar 44

Mogadishu.store 64

Moniuszko Park 52

Montag 27

Monument to the 1905 Insurrection 49

Museum of Archaeology and

Ethnography 50

Museum of Cinematography 53

Museum of Natural History 51

Museum of the City of Łódź 51

Museum of the Factory 38

Museum of the Tradition of Independence

51

Music Hostel 73

NoBo Hotel 69

North Fish 41

Novotel Łódź Centrum 69

Old Cemetery 52

Old Havana Cigars & Accessories 37

Old Jewish Cemetery 58

Old Synagogue 57

Old Town Square 52

Open-air Museum of the Łódź Wooden

Architecture 51

Orthodox Church 48

Oscar's Bar 42

Otwarte Drzwi 24

Palm House 52

Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel 42, 64

PINI Cafe & Vino 30

Piotrkowska Klub 97 31

Pit Stop Steak&Burger 19

Piwnica Smaków 26

Piwoteka 63

Pizza Hut 42

Polka 42

Polonia Palast 72

Polska 26

Pope John Paul II 49

Presto 24

Produkty Benedyktyńskie 64

PTTK - Polish Tourist and Sightseeing

Society 49

Pub Ferajna 31

Qubus Hotel Łódź 70

Radegast Station 56

Rent-a-pad 73

Restauracja Gronowalski 24

Restauracja Kolory Wina 23

Restauracja Lavash 20

Restauracja Marcello 42

Restauracja u Kretschmera 23

Restauracja w Łaźni 26

Restauracja Włoszczyzna 24

Revelo 26, 70

Savoy 71

Schupo and Gestapo HQ 58

Segway Tours 49

SerVantka 20

Shotme by Gossip 31

Sienkiewicz Park 52

skySPAce 60

Smulsko 60

Solo Pizza 42

SPA & Health Club in Double Tree by

Hilton Łódź 61

Spaleni Słońcem 45

Sphinx 25

Spinka 33

Spółdzielnia 45

Sports and Tourism Museum 51

Sporty Ekstremalne 4x4 59

Stacja Nowa Gdynia 59, 70

Stare Kino Cinema Residence 73

Statue of Leon Schiller 49, 54

St. Joseph's Church 48

Subway 42

Świat Kobiet 61

Światowit 71

Synagogue 57, 58

Tari Bari Bistro 45

Tawerna Pepe Verde 42

Tawerna Thestylacja Rumu 31

Teremok 26

Thai Concept 61

The Ghetto Bridges 58

The Lamp Man 49

The Monument in Commemoration of the

Polish Children Martyrdom 57

The Red House 58

Three Factory Owners 50

Timberland 37

Tobaco Hotel 71

Toscana 37

Tourist Information Point 49

U Bronka 66

Victims of Communism 50

Wiki 60

W. Kruk 63

Władysław Reymont’s Trunk 50

Yes 63

Zajazd Rubin 71

Zbożowa 26

ZET Cafe 27

Zetka 66

Z Innej Beczki 31

Złota Kaczka 19

Złoty Imbir 19

ZOO 60

Photo by P. Wojtyczka.

www.manufaktura.com

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