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AA Coruña 1001A­Tramp­Abroad 516Aachen 540-2Abd al Malik 427Abélard, Peter 316Aberdeen 279-81accommodation 1106-7, see­

also­individual­locationsAcconci, Vito 66Acropolis (Athens) 575, 20activities 30-3, 1108, see­

also­individual­activitiesAdams, Gerry 718Aegina 604Aeolian Islands 828-30Agia Roumeli 623, 624Agiasos 637Agios Georgios 625Agios Gordios 642Agios Nikitas 642Agios Nikolaos 625Agrigento 833Ahn 149Aínsa 991air travel 25, 1115, 1116Aix-en-Provence 401-3Ajaccio 422-3Albarracín 991Albert of Monaco 418Alcaeus 648Alcalá de Henares 960Alexandroupolis 601Alfonso VI of Spain 1036Algarve 909-14, 910Algeciras 1029Alghero 836-7Alhambra (Granada) 16, 938, 1022, 16Alicante 1005-6Alkmaar 864Allihies 685Alloway 262-3

Almodóvar, Pedro 1038Alonnisos 639Alpe di Siusi 788Alpirsbach 521Alps (Bavarian) 500-3Alps (French) 374-81Alsace 353-8Altea 1006Amalfi 820Amalfi Coast 818-20Amalia, Anna 475Ambleside 256Amboise 363-4Ameland 880Amélie 427Amenábar, Alejandro 1039Amiens 339-40Amrum 557Amsterdam 19, 851, 852-64, 853,

854, 856accommodation 858Canal Belt 853De Pijp 855-7, 863drinking 860entertainment 860-2food 859-60Jordaan 855Museumplein 853-5Nieuwmarkt 857, 863Plantage 857Red Light District 852, 862shopping 862-3sights 852-7tourist information 863transport 863-4

An­Eternity­and­One­Day 649Anavatos 634Andorra 984, 985Aneto 991Anglet 390Annecy 377-9Antiparos 610, 609Antwerp 102, 115-23, 118-19Aonach Eagach (Glen Coe) 282-3Apollinaire 316Appel, Karel 855Appenzell 1088Appenzellerland 1088Appian Way, the (Rome) 751apple-wine 533Aragón 989-91Aran Islands 661, 697-9Aranjuez 960Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 313Arçais 386archaeological sites & ruins

Acrocorinth 591Acropolis (Athens) 575-6, 20

Akrotiri (Santorini) 615Asklipieion (Kos) 630Avebury Stone Circle 208Brú na Bóinne 674Conimbriga 919Delos 608Delphi 596Empúries (Costa Brava) 987Évora 915Hall of the Red Earl (Galway)

693Herculaneum 816Ireon (Samos) 633Kamiros (Rhodes) 628Knossos (Crete) 620Lindos (Rhodes) 628Mérida 1035Mycenae 593Olympia 596Ostia Antica 759Palatino (Rome) 731Parco Archaeologico della Neapolis

(Syracuse) 831Phaestos (Crete) 620Pompeii 816, 27Pont du Gard (Nîmes) 393Rock of Cashel 682Roman Forum (Rome) 731, 12Skarkos (Ios) 613Stonehenge 209Teatro Greco (Taormina) 830Terme di Caracalla (Rome) 746Trier 528Vaison-la-Romaine 407Valley of the Temples (Agrigento)

833Vézère Valley 384

Areopoli 595Argostoli 643Arkadia 593Arles 406Arnhem 876Arp, Hans Jean 354Arroyo, Eduardo 942Arsac-en-Médoc 388art 29, see­also cultureArtà 1009artists, see­individual­artistsAssisi 807-8Assmannhausen 526Asturias 997-8Athani 642Athens 571-87, 572-3, 580

accommodation 578-81drinking 583entertainment 583-5food 581-3history 574-5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1130

INdex A

-B

Athens continueditineraries 575-658safety 585shopping 585sights 575-7, 578tourist information 586tours 577travel to/from 586travel within 586-7

ATMs 1111Attersee 80Auden, WH 223Augsburg 505Austen, Jane 166, 207, 212, 289Austria 38, 44-98, 46-7

accommodation 44, 93-4, 95activities 94architecture 92arts 92basics 44-5budgeting 45, 55climate 44drinking 45, 92-3embassies 94food 44-5, 92-3, 94highlights 46-7history 91-2holidays 95itineraries 45money 94-5resources 45telephone services 95tourist information 96travel to/from 45, 96travel within 97-8visas 96

Avignon 403-6, 404-5Ávila 960-1

BBach, Johann Sebastian 472, 477, 561Bacharach 526-7Bacon, Francis 167, 193, 231Bad Ischl 77-8Baden-Baden 518-19Badron Gorge 593Baleal 917Balearic Islands 1006-13Ballycastle 712Baltimore 684Balzac 316Bamberg 442, 510-11Banksy 214Bannockburn 278

Baptistère St-Jean (Poitiers) 387Barceló, Miquel 973, 1007Barcelona 969-85, 970-1, 974-5

accommodation 978-80drinking 982-3entertainment 983food 980-2shopping 984sights 969-78tourist information 984-5tours 978travel to/from 985travel within 985

Barcelos 928Bardem, Javier 1039Bari 821-2bars 27, see­also drinkingBasel 1085-7Basque Country 991-5Bastia 419-21Bastogne 139-40Bath 18, 160, 210-14, 210Baudelaire, Charles 427Bauhaus School 452, 480, 561Bavaria 489-512Bavarian Alps 500-3Bayeux 342-3beaches 27

Britain 220France 390, 410, 415Greece 629, 642Netherlands 868Portugal 907, 927Spain 992, 1012

Beara Peninsula 685Beatles, the 251, 252, 253Beaton, Cecil 853Beaufort 148Beaune 366-8Becket, Thomas 202, 286Beckett, Samuel 666, 719Beckmann, Max 473Beddgelert 261Beefeaters 173beer 26, 137, 151, 497, 562, 855,

see­also breweriesBeethoven, Ludwig van 54, 58,

538, 561Before­Sunset 327Beilstein 528Belfast 703-12, 704-5

accommodation 708-9drinking 710-11entertainment 711food 709-10sights 706-8travel to/from 711travel within 712

Belgium 17, 38, 99-155, 102-3accommodation 99, 152activities 152basics 99-100budgeting 100climate 99culture 150-1drinking 100, 151-2embassies & consulates 153food 99, 100, 151-2, 153highlights 102history 149-50holidays 153internet resources 100itineraries 100language 150opening hours 153travel to/from 100, 153-5travel within 155-6

Bellini, Giovanni 422, 774Bellinzona 1089Ben Nevis 283Benidorm 1006Bentley, John Francis 167Berchtesgaden 502-3Berdorf 149Bergen 139Bergen-Belsen 545Berlenga Grande 917Berlin 441-64, 444, 446-7

accommodation 455-8Charlottenburg 453-5, 457-8,

459, 454drinking 459-60entertainment 460-2Friedrichshain 452-3, 457, 458-9,

450-1history 441-4itineraries 441Kreuzberg 452-3, 457, 458-9,

450-1Mitte 455-7, 458Potsdamer Platz 450-2Prenzlauer Berg 455-7, 458Reichstag 444-8Scheunenviertel 448-50shopping 462-3sights 444-55tourist information 463travel to/from 463travel within 463-7

Berlin Wall 14, 450Berlusconi, Silvio 839Bern 1052, 1066-70Bernard, Emile 854Bernese Oberland 1071-8Bernhardt, Sarah 316Bernina Pass 1053

1131IN

dex B-C

Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 740, 741Bernkastel-Kues 528Besançon 381-2Betjeman, Sir John 224Betwys-y-Coed 261Beuvron-en-Auge 340Beuys, Joseph 539, 561Biarritz 390-1Big Ben (London) 167Bilbao 994-5Binz 488Birmingham 230Bizet, Georges 427Black Forest 442, 519-22, 520Blair, Tony 288Blake, William 167Blarney 682Blois 359-60BMW 494boat travel 25, 1108, 1115-16, 1117Boca do Inferno 909Bodensee see Lake ConstanceBoleyn, Anne 173Bologna 729, 784-6Bolzano 788Bon­Voyage 427Bonifacio 423-4Bonn 538Bonvicini, Monica 561books, see­individual­writers­and­

worksBoppard 526Bosch, Hieronymus 871, 881, 884Botticelli, Sandro 313, 422, 467, 493,

532, 741, 789, 793Bouillon 138Bordeaux 387-9Bourscheid 148Bouzianis, George 649Bowness 256Braga 928-9Brahms, Johannes 54, 58, 561Braille, Louis 308Braque, Georges 328, 428, 774Braveheart 278Brecht, Bertolt 445Bregenz 90-1Bregenzerwald 90Bremen 547-8Breughel the Younger, Pieter 125, 151breweries 108, 116

Abdij St-Sixtus (Westvleteren) 137Alpirsbacher Klosterbräu 521Beck’s Brewery (Bremen) 547Brouwerij De Halve Maan (Bruges)

129Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) 663Heineken Experience (Amsterdam)

855

Brighton 160, 203-6Bristol 214-98Britain 39, 157-298, 160-1

accommodation 291-3activities 293basics 157-8budgeting 158climate 157culture 289-90drinking 158, 291embassies & consulates

294food 157, 158, 291, 294highlights 160-1history 286holidays 295itineraries 158language 294money 294opening hours 293population 289religion 289resources 158telephone services 295time 295tourist information 296travel to/from 158, 296-7travel within 297-8visas 296

Brittany 345-50Brittas Bay 674Broadway (Britain) 227Brockenbahn 483Brontë, Anne 236Brontë, Charlotte 166, 236Brossa, Joan 973Brown, Gordon 288Brú na Bóinne 674Bruegel the Elder, Pieter 49, 101, 740,

871, 937Bruges 102, 128-35, 130Bruna, Dick 877Brunelleschi, Filippo 789Bruni, Carla 426Brusselmans, Jean 151Brussels 101-15, 102, 104-5, 6

accommodation 109-10drinking 112-13entertainment 113-14food 110-12shopping 114sights 101-9tourist information 114travel to/from 114travel within 114-5

Buçaco Forest 920-1Buchenwald 475Buchs 1093

Buckingham Palace (London) 169budgeting 24Bundoran 702bungee jumping 1073, 1076Buoninsegna, Duccio di 802Burano 775Buren, Daniel 385Burg Eltz 528Burgos 966Burgundy 364-74Burns, Robert 262, 271Burren, the 692-3bus travel 24, 1117Bushmills 713business hours 1108, see­

also individual­countriesByron, Lord 231, 907, 1063

cCabo da Roca 909Cabo de São Vicente 914Cabo Espichel 908Cabo Ortegal 1001Cabot, John 214Cabril 929Cáceres 1034-5Cadaqués 987, 988Cádiz 1030Caesar, Julius 838cafes 27, see­also drinkingCage, John 973Cagliari 834-6Caherciveen 689Caherdaniel 688Cala Gonone 836Calais 338-9Caldas de Monchique 913Calella de Palafrugell 987Calpe 1006Calvi 421Calvin­and­Hobbes 553Cambremer 340Cambridge 231-4Cameron, David 288campervans 1117Camus, Albert 427Canaletto 169, 379, 764, 937Canazei 788Cancale 347Cannes 412-14Cantabria 997Canterbury 201-3Cap de Creus 988Cap de Formentor 1009Cape Keri 645Capel Curig 261Capri 815-17car travel 25, 1117-19

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1132

INdex C

Caravaggio, Michelangelo Merisi da 49, 340, 356, 740, 741, 793

Carcassonne 394Cardiff 257-9Carinthia 66Carlos III of Spain 937Carlos IV of Spain 1037Carnac 302, 345Carpaccio, Vittore 774Carracci, Annibale 740Carrantuohil 686, 687Carrère, Emmanuel 427Carrick-a-Rede 712Carroll, Lewis 223Cartier-Bresson, Henri 853Casais do Baleal 917Cascais 909Cashel 682Casino de Monte Carlo 416Cassis 396Castilla y León 960-6Castilla-La Mancha 966-9castles, fortresses & palaces 26

Alcázar (Segovia) 963Alhambra (Granada) 16, 938,

1022, 16Aljafería (Zaragoza) 990Blarney Castle 682Blenheim Palace (Woodstock) 226Bouillon Castle 138Burg Eltz 527Caerphilly Castle (Cardiff) 259Cardiff Castle 257Castell Coch 260Castle Howard (York) 243Château d’Azay-le-Rideau

(Loire Valley) 362Château d’If (Marseille) 396Château de Bourscheid

(Luxembourg) 148Château de Chambord

(Loire Valley) 360Château de Chaumont

(Loire Valley) 361Château de Chenonceau

(Loire Valley) 362Château de Cheverny

(Loire Valley) 360Château de Chillon (Montreux)

1063Château de Gruyères 1064Château de Versailles (Paris) 333-4Château de Villandry (Loire Valley)

362Château Royal de Blois

(Loire Valley) 359

Chatsworth House (Peak District) 231

Citadelle de Besançon 381Coca Castle (Castilla y León) 961Conwy Castle 262Dover Castle 203Edinburgh Castle 265Hampton Court Palace (London)

185Harewood House (Leeds) 236Hofburg (Innsbruck) 81Hofburg (Vienna) 48Kaiserburg (Nuremberg) 508Kensington Palace (London) 177Kilkenny Castle 676Leeds Castle 204Malahide Castle 673Palace of Holyroodhouse

(Edinburgh) 267Palácio Ducal (Vila Viçosa) 916Palacio Real (Madrid) 942Palaio Frourio (Corfu) 641Palais des Papes (Avignon) 403Palais du Tau (Reims) 350Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte

(Naples) 812Pedraza de la Sierra (Castilla y

Leon) 961Peñafiel (Castilla y León) 961Ponferrada (Castilla y León) 961Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) 907Residenz (Munich) 492Residenz (Würzburg) 506Residenzschloss (Dresden) 466Schloss (Heidelberg) 516Schloss Belvedere (Vienna) 53, 17Schloss Charlottenburg (Berlin)

453Schloss Eggenberg (Graz) 66Schloss Hellbrunn 76Schloss Hohenschwangau (Füssen)

504Schloss Neuschwanstein (Füssen)

504Schloss Nymphenburg (Munich)

494Schloss Schönbrunn (Vienna) 49Stirling Castle 278Tower of London 172Vaduz Castle (Liechtenstein) 1092Vianden Castle 147Wartburg Castle (Eisenach) 477Warwick Castle 230Windsor Castle 200

Castletownbere 685Catalonia 969-89cathedrals see churches & cathedralsCauseway Coast 15, 712caves 79, 138

cell phones 1114Celle 544-5CERN (Geneva) 1056Cézanne, Paul 49, 267, 307, 328, 401,

402, 404, 428, 493, 532, 744, 1071Chagall, Marc 314, 379, 385, 409, 527,

543, 636Chamonix 21, 374-7, 375-7champagne 350, 351, 352Champagne 17, 350-3Charlemagne 424Charles VII 343, 350, 424Charles VIII 363Charles, HRH Prince 231Chartres 334-5Chateaubriand, François-René 347Châteauneuf-du-Pape 410Chaucer, Geoffrey 166, 193cheese 344, 353, 864, 869, 1098Chester 250-1children, travel with 1109Chillida, Eduardo 942, 992, 994, 1039Chinchón 960Chios 633-5Chipping Campden 227Chirac, Jacques 426Chocolat 427chocolate 152

Belgium 129Germany 536Switzerland 1090, 1098

Chopin 316Christmas markets 33

Strasbourg 354Nuremberg 508Vienna 55, 61

churches & cathedrals, see­also convents & monasteries, mosques, synagogues

Aachener Dom (Aachen) 541Abbaye de Jumièges 343Bamberger Dom (Bamberg) 510Basílica de Nuestra Señora del

Pilar (Zaragoza) 990Basilica di San Francesco (Assisi)

807Basilica di San Lorenzo (Florence)

793Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 773Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli

(Rome) 745Basilica di Santa Croce (Lecce) 822Basilique St-Rémi (Reims) 350Canterbury Cathedral 201Cappella degli Scrovegni (Padua)

771Catedral (Burgos) 966Catedral (León) 965Catedral (Palma de Mallorca) 1007

1133IN

dex CCatedral (Toledo) 967Catedral de Santiago de

Compostela 998Cathedral & Giralda (Seville) 1013Cathédrale de Notre Dame de

Paris 309Cathédrale St-Étienne (Metz) 357Cathédrale Notre Dame (Amiens)

339Cathédrale Notre Dame (Chartres)

335-6Cathédrale Notre Dame (Reims)

350Cathédrale Notre Dame (Tournai)

137Cathédrale Notre-Dame

(Strasbourg) 354Cathédrale St-André (Bordeaux)

387Cathédrale St-Bénigne (Dijon) 365Cattedrale di Monreale (Palermo)

828Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

(Florence) 789Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo

(Rome) 741Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute

(Venice) 775Chiesa di Santa Maria in AracoeliDomtoren (Utrecht) 877Duomo (Florence) 789Duomo (Milan) 766Duomo (Pisa) 799Duomo (Siena) 801Durham Cathedral 243Église St-Sulpice (Paris) 309Ely Cathedral 234Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida

(Madrid) 943Exeter Cathedral 218Frauenkirche (Dresden) 466Heilig-Bloedbasiliek (Bruges) 128Kaisergruft (Vienna) 49King’s College Chapel (Cambridge)

232Kölner Dom (Cologne) 536La Catedral (Barcelona) 972La Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 23,

938, 976, 23Marienkirche (Rostock) 486Melrose Abbey 263Mezquita (Cordoba) 938Münster (Constance) 524Münster (Freiburg im Breisgau)

522Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal

(Antwerp) 115Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Bruges)

129Pantheon (Rome) 739Rievaulx Abbey (Helmsley) 243

Rosslyn Chapel (Edinburgh) 269Salisbury Cathedral 208Shrewsbury Abbey 228Sistine Chapel (Rome) 739St Paul’s Cathedral (London) 169St Peter’s Basilica (Rome) 738St-Baafskathedraal (Ghent) 124Ste-Chapelle (Paris) 309Stephansdom (Vienna) 49Wells Cathedral 217Westminster Abbey (London) 166Westminster Cathedral (London)

167Winchester Cathedral 206York Minster 238

Churchill, Winston 167cider 340Cinema­Paradiso 840cinemas

Austria 60Belgium 113, 123Britain 196Greece 585, 637Ireland 671, 711Italy 798Luxembourg 145Portugal 905

Cinque Terre 762-3Ciutadella 1012Claus, Emile 125Claus, Hugo 150Clear Island 684Clervaux 148Clifden 700Cliffs of Moher 693climate 24,­see­also­individual­

countriesclimate change 1115Clinton, Bill 226, 260, 518Clovis 350Cobh 683Coimbra 891, 919-20Colette 316Cologne 442, 535-9Colosseum (Rome) 730Columbus, Christopher 760, 972,

1014, 1037comic strips 108concert halls, see theatres & concert

hallsConimbriga 919Connemara 699-700Conrad, Joseph 202Constable, John 167, 232, 267Constance 524-5consulates 1109-10, see­

also­individual­countriesconvents & monasteries

Agias Triados (Meteora) 597

Agias Varvaras Rousanou (Meteora) 597

Agiou Nikolaou Anapafsa (Meteora) 597

Agiou Stefanou (Meteora) 597Begijnhof (Bruges) 129Convento de las Descalzas Reales

(Madrid) 943Megalou Meteorou (Meteora) 597Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes

(Toledo) 967Monastery of St John the

Theologian (Patmos) 631Monestir de Montserrat 986St Michael’s Mount (Penzance) 222Stift Melk 64Varlaam (Meteora) 597

Conwy 262Coo 138Cook, Captain James 288Córdoba 1019-22, 1020Corfu 639-42, 640Corfu Town 640-1Corinth 590-1Cork 678-92, 680-1Corot, Jean-Baptiste-Camille 313Corsica 419-24Cortina d’Ampezzo 788Costa Blanca 1006Costa Brava 987-8Costa da Caparica 907Costa da Morte 1001Costa de Almería 1025-6Côte d’Opale 338Cotswolds 160, 226-8Coulon 386Count­of­Monte­Cristo,­The 397County Wicklow 674-5Cranach the Elder, Lucas 81, 493, 560credit cards 1112Crete 617-25, 618-19Crown Jewels (London) 173Cruz, Penélope 1039cuckoo-clocks 521Cuenca 969Cuillin Hills 284culture, see­individual­countriesCunard 253Curie, Marie 308currency 1111Cushendall 712Cushendun 712customs regulations 1109Cyclades 605-17cycling 25, 1108, 1116-17

Austria 63, 68, 86, 90, 97Belgium 114, 152, 155Britain 220, 231, 236, 293France 316, 338, 358, 378, 436

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1134

INdex C

-E

cycling continued­Germany 566Greece 656Ireland 724Italy 847Liechtenstein 1093Luxembourg 149, 155Netherlands 18, 887Portugal 896, 907, 909, 929, 934Spain 1047Switzerland 1072, 1073, 1088, 1103

Cyrano­de­Bergerac 427

dda Vinci, Leonardo 49, 181, 232, 313,

360, 363, 766, 789Da­Vinci­Code,­The 269, 309Dachau 500Dalí, Salvador 204, 274, 493, 514, 871,

937, 942, 986, 1039, 1068Damme 135Dante Alighieri 787, 839Danube Valley 47, 63-6Dark Ages 286Dartmoor 220Das­Kapital 529David I 263D-Day Beaches 343-4de Beauvoir, Simone 427de Chirico, Giorgio 744de Echevarria, Juan 994de Gaulle, Charles 426de Kooning, Willem 855de Oteiza, Jorge 994de Ribera, José 944de Saint Phalle, Niki 542, 543de Zurbarán, Francisco 944Debussy, Claude 428Degas, Edgar 307, 314, 317, 404,

428, 493Deià 1009, 1009-10del Ponte, Giovanni 232Delacroix, Eugène 309, 313, 316,

341, 381Delanoë, Bertrand 301Delémont 1086Delft 851, 870-1della Francesca, Piero 789Delos 608Delphi 596-7Delvaux 128Den Bosch 881Den Haag 851, 867-9Derry 713-15

Derrygimla 700Dessau-Rosslau 480d’Estaing, Valéry Giscard 426Deventer 880Diakofto 590diamonds 117Diana, Princess of Wales 177Dickens, Charles 166, 174, 193, 289Diekirch 148Digne-les-Bains 412Dijon 364-6Dilofo 603Dimitsana 593Dingle Peninsula 690-1Dingle Town 690-1disabilities, travellers with 564, 654,

723, 845Disneyland Resort Paris 333diving 828, 914, 917, 987Dix, Otto 451, 560Doctor­Who 258Dodecanese 625-32Dogtooth 649Dolomites 788Donatello 793, 801Donegal 702-3Doolin 692Dordogne 382-4Dordrecht 874, 876Dover 203Doyle, Roddy 719Drake, Francis 287Dresden 443, 466-71, 468drinking, see individual­locationsdriving, see car travelDublin 20, 661, 662-73, 664-5

accommodation 667-9drinking 670-1entertainment 671-2food 669-70itineraries 662sights 662-7tourist information 672tours 667travel to/from 672travel within 673

Duchamp, Marcel 871Dumas, Alexandre 317, 397Dun Laoghaire 673Duncan, Isadora 316Duncansby Head 285Dune du Pilat 390Dunmore Head 691Dunnet Head 285Dunquin 691Durbuy 138Dürer, Albrecht 49, 381, 451, 466, 467,

493, 509, 532, 560, 937

Durham 243-4Dürnstein 64Dürrenmatt, Friedrich 1097Dursey Island 685Düsseldorf 539-40Dutch (language) 1123Dutch East India Company 883

eEbensee 80Echternach 147-8Edam 876Eden Project 221Edinburgh 22, 161, 263-71, 264-5

accommodation 268-9drinking 270entertainment 270sights 265-7tourist information 270tours 268travel to/from 270-1

Edward I of England 287Edward V of England 166, 173Edward VI of England 287Edward VIII of England 166Edward the Black Prince 201Edward the Confessor 166, 286Eiffel Tower (Paris) 10, 301-6, 11Einstein, Albert 223, 1067, 1095Eisenach 477El Greco 267, 493, 649, 937, 943, 944,

967, 1039electricity 1109Elies 596Eliot, TS 224Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi) 48, 49Elizabeth I of England 287Elizabeth II of England 169Ely 234Elytis, Odysseus 648embassies 1109-10, see­

also­individual­countriesEmin, Tracey 167England, see BritainEnkhuizen 876Enniskillen 715-16Ensor, James 151entertainment, see­individual­

locationsEntrevaux 412Épernay 351-3, 352-3Epidavros 593Erasmus 108Erfurt 477-9Ermida 929Ernst, Max 560, 1085Escher, MC 884Esch-sur-Alzette 145

1135IN

dex E-FEstoril 909Estremoz 916Eton 200-1Ettelbrück 148Eurail passes 1122events 30-3, see­also festivals &

eventsÉvora 914-16Exeter 218-19Extremadura 1033-6

FFabre, Jan 151fado 904Faro 911Faust 475Favret, Eric 375Feldkirch 1093Ferdinand, Archduke Franz 91ferries, see boat travelfestivals & events 30-3, see­also film

festivals, music festivalsArt-Athina (Athens) 578Athens Biennial (Athens) 578Bienal de Flamenco (Seville) 1015Boardmasters (Newquay) 220Bregenzer Festspiele (Bregenz) 90Brighton Festival 204Carnaval (Maastricht) 30, 881Carnaval de Nice 410Carnevale (Venice) 30, 776Carnival (Cologne) 535Cathedral Quarter Arts Festival

(Belfast) 708Celtic Connections (Glasgow) 274Comic-Strip Festival (Brussels) 108Dia de Sant Joan (Barcelona) 978Dolomitenlauf (Lienz) 89Domstufen-Festspiele (Erfurt) 477Ducasse (Mons) 139Edinburgh Festival Fringe 268Edinburgh International Festival

32, 268Edinburgh Military Tattoo 268Escalade (Geneva) 1057Estate Romana (Rome) 746Fashion Week (Paris) 316Fasnacht (Lucerne) 1072Féile An Phobail (Belfast) 708Feria de Abril (Seville) 1015Féria de Pentecôte (Nîmes) 392Féria des Vendanges (Nîmes) 392Festa de Nossa Senhora da Agonia

(Viana do Castelo) 927Festa de Santo António (Lisbon)

896Festa de São João (Porto) 924Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo

(Rome) 747

Festa del Redentore (Venice) 776Festa de’Noantri (Rome) 747Festa di San Gennaro (Naples) 812Festa di San Giovanni (Florence)

794Festa di Sant’Efisio (Cagliari) 835Festas de Lisboa (Lisbon) 896Festes de la Mercè (Barcelona) 978Festival at Queen’s (Belfast) 708Festival d’Avignon 405Festival Off (Avignon) 405Fête des Lumières (Lyon) 369Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre

(Paris) 317Fêtes de Genève (Geneva) 1057Fiesta de San Isidro (Madrid) 944Formula One Grand Prix (Monaco)

418Galway Arts Festival 695Galway Oyster Festival 695Gay Pride (Brighton) 204Gentse Feesten (Ghent) 123Glastonbury Festival 219Guinness Jazz Festival (Cork) 679Hay Festival (Hay-on-Wye) 260Hellenic Festival (Athens) 578Jazz Marathon (Brussels) 151Jodler Fest Luzern (Lucerne) 1072Kilkenny Arts Festival 677Las Fallas de San José (Valencia)

1005Lehár Festival (Bad Ischl) 77London Marathon 186Maggio dei Monumenti (Naples)

814Maggio Musicale Fiorentino

(Florence) 794Mercado Medieval (Óbidos) 918Mondial de la Bière (Strasbourg)

354Monsaraz Museu Aberto 916Natale di Roma (Rome) 746Nice Jazz Festival 410Notting Hill Carnival (London)

32, 186Nuit Blanche (Paris) 317Oktoberfest (Munich) 16, 32, 442,

493, 494Opernball (Vienna) 54Palio (Siena) 802Palio delle Quattro Antiche

Repubbliche Marinare (Venice) 776

Paris Plages 317Patras Carnival 589Pride (London) 186Procession Eucharistique

(Lourdes) 389Queima das Fitas (Coimbra) 919Ravenna Festival 786

Regata Storica (Venice) 776ReMap (Athens) 578Riesling du Monde (Strasbourg)

354RomaEuropa (Rome) 747Sanfermines (Pamplona) 996Scoppio del Carro (Florence) 794Sechseläuten (Zürich) 1079Semana Santa (Seville) 1014Serralves Em Festa (Porto) 924Settimana della Cultura

(Rome) 746Sprinprozession (Echternach) 148Stow Horse Fair 227Street Parade (Zürich) 1079Suma Flamenca (Madrid) 945Titanic Belfast Festival 708Trooping the Colour (London) 186University Boat Race (London) 186Venice Architecture Biennale 776Venice Biennale 776Veranos de la Villa (Madrid) 945West End Festival (Glasgow) 274Wexford Festival Fringe 675Wexford Opera Festival 675Wiener Festwochen (Vienna) 54Wimbledon Lawn Tennis

Championships (London) 186Fiennes, Sir Ranulph 201Figueirinha 908film festivals

Belfast Film Festival 708, 711Berlin International Film Festival

450Cork Film Festival 679Festival de Cannes 413Festival Internazionale del Film di

Roma 747Musikfilm Festival (Vienna) 54Venice Film Festival 776

Filoti 611fine dining 28, see­also foodFira 614Firenze, see FlorenceFiskardo 643flamenco 938, 955-6, 1014, 1018,

1024, 1039-40Flanders (Belgium) 115-137Flanders (France) 335-40Flaubert, Gustave 427Fleming, Ian 201Flims-Laax 1091-2Florence 729, 788-99, 790-1

accommodation 794-6drinking 797entertainment 798food 796-7history 788sights 788-93

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1136

INdex F-G

Florence continuedtourist information 798tours 794travel to/from 798travel within 798-9

Flowers­of­Evil,­The 427Föhr 557Fóia 913food 27, see­also­individual­countriesfootball 248, 498, 769, 862Fornalutx 1009Fornells 1012Forster, EM 180Fort William 283-4fortresses, see castles, fortresses

& palacesFournier, Colin 66Fra Angelico 793, 937, 1068Fra Bartolomeo 422Fragonard, Jean-Honoré 313France 39, 299-438, 302-3

accommodation 299, 430activities 431basics 299-300climate 299culture 426-8drinking 429-30embassies & consulates 432environment 428-9food 299-300, 429-30, 432highlights 302hiking 380history 424-6holidays 433language 432-3money 300opening hours 431-2planning 299-300resources 300skiing 380telephone services 433-4toilets 434travel to/from 434-5travel within 436-8visas 434

Franck, César 427Franco, General Francisco 1037François I of France 425Frank, Anne 853Frankfurt-am-Main 529-35, 530-1Franz Josef I 48, 77, 91Freiburg im Breisgay 522-3French (language) 1123-4Freud, Lucian 167, 193

Freud, Sigmund 54Freudenstadt 521Friedrich I of Germany 441Friedrich, Caspar David 467, 488,

493, 560Friedrichshöhe 483Friel, Brian 719Friesland 880Frikes 644Frisch, Max 1097Frisian Islands 880Frost, Terry 221Füssen 504-5

gGabo, Naum 221Gaddi, Agnolo 792Gainsborough 167, 232, 267Gainsborough, Thomas 451, 937Gainsbourg, Serge 428Galapo 908Galeries St-Hubert (Brussels) 101Galicia 998-1000Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 789Galway 661, 693-7, 694-5Gambier, Thomas 234Gap of Dunloe 661, 686gardens see parks & gardensGargallo, Pablo 942Garmisch-Partenkirchen 500-1Garnier, Charles 314Gateshead 245Gaudí, Antoni 965, 976, 977, 1007Gauguin, Paul 267, 428, 854Gavalda, Anna 427gay & lesbian travellers 1110

Belgium 113, 122Britain 186, 195, 206, 294France 329, 432Germany 461, 498, 563Greece 635, 652Ireland 722Italy 844Netherlands 861Spain 955, 1042Switzerland 1101

Gefyra 594Gehry, Frank 539gelato 753, 797Geneva 1051-60, 1052, 1054-5

accommodation 1057-8drinking 1058-9entertainment 1058-9food 1058itineraries 1051shopping 1059sights 1051-7tourist information 1059

travel to/from 1059travel within 1060

Genoa 760-2George II of Greece 647George III of England 177Géricault, Théodore 313German (language) 1124Germany 39, 439-568, 442-3

accommodation 439, 562-3basics 439-40climate 439culture 560-1drinking 440, 561-2embassies & consulates 563food 439, 440, 458-9, 561-2highlights 442-3history 558itineraries 440money 440, 564opening hours 563public holidays 564resources 440telephone services 564travel to/from 440, 565-6travel within 566-8visas 564

Gerolimenas 595Ghent 123-8Giacometti, Alberto 402, 1079Giambologna 792Giant’s Causeway 15, 661, 712-13Gibberd, Sir Frederick 252Gibraltar 1032-3Giger, HR 1064Gimmelwald 1078Giorgione 774Giotto 771Girona 986-7Giverny 342glaciers 375, 1065, 1097Glasgow 271-7, 272-3Glastonbury 219Glen Coe 282-3Glenariff 712Glencairn 685Glencolumbcille 702-3Glendalough 674-5Glengarriff 685Glens of Antrim 712Gmunden 80Godefroid de Bouillon 106Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 472,

473, 475, 516, 532Goldsworthy, Andy 236González, Julio 1007Goslar 482Gouda 869Gounod, Charles 427

1137IN

dex G-H

Gouveia 921Goya, Francisco 381, 937, 943, 944,

967, 990, 1039Granada 16, 1022-5, 1024-5Grand Canal (Venice) 773Grand Place (Brussels) 101, 7Grasmere 256-7Grasse 413Graubünden 1091-4Graves, Robert 1009Graz 66-8Greece 20, 22, 39, 569-658, 571

accommodation 569, 651-2basics 569-70climate 569culture 648-9drinking 570, 650-1embassies & consulates 652environment 649-50food 569, 570, 650-1highlights 571history 646-8itineraries 570money 570, 653opening hours 652public holidays 653resources 570telephone services 653tourist information 654travel to/from 570, 654-5travel with 656-8visas 654

Greek (language) 1124Green Venice 386Grenoble 379-81Grevenmacher 149Grindelwald 1076-7Gris, Juan 942Groningen 880Gropius, Walter 480, 561Grossglockner 89Grossglockner Road 89Grosz, George 451, 560Grütschalp 1077Gruyères 1063-4Gryon 1063Guarda 921Guène, Faïza 427Guernica 937, 1039Guimarães 928Günterstal 522Gythio 594-5

hHaarlem 864-6Habsburg empire 48Hadrian 759Hadrian’s Wall 160, 246-7

Hag’s Glen 687Hague, The, see Den HaagHaider, Jörg 92Halki 612Halkidiki 601Hallstatt 78-9Hals, Frans 884Hamburg 443, 548-54, 550-1Hamelin 545-8Handel 166Händel, Georg Friedrich 561Hania 621-2Hanover 542-4Han-sur-Lesse 138Hardy 166Harrods (London) 197Harz Mountains 482-3Harzquerbahn 483Haworth 236-7Haydn, Joseph 92Hay-on-Wye 260health 1110Healy Pass 685Heaney, Seamus 224, 719Heathrow Airport 199Heckel, Erich 560Heidelberg 516-18Heiligenblut 89Héloïse d’Argenteuil 316Hemingway, Ernest 995Henri IV of France 307Henry II of England 286Henry IV of England 287Henry VI of England 232, 424Henry VII of England 287Henry VIII of England 173, 185, 232,

250Hepworth, Barbara 167, 221, 236Herculaneum 816Hergé 108, 360Heron, Patrick 221Hesse 529-35hiking 1108

Austria 81, 86, 88, 89Britain 220, 231, 236, 260, 262,

293France 338, 422Greece 596, 603Ireland 675, 687, 688, 690, 703Liechtenstein 1093Luxembourg 149Portugal 929Spain 1042Switzerland 1064, 1065, 1077,

1078, 1088Hindeloopen 880Hippocrates 629hire (car) 1118

historical buildings & monuments 26Acropolis (Athens) 575, 20Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 853Arc de Triomphe (Paris) 313Bannockburn (Stirling) 278Berlin Wall 14, 446, 450, 452, Big Ben (London) 167Bocca della Verità (Rome) 735Bodleian Library (Oxford) 224Brandenburger Tor (Berlin) 445Buckingham Palace (London) 169Casa Amatller (Barcelona) 977Casa Batlló (Barcelona) 977Casa di Giulietta (Verona) 770Checkpoint Charlie (Berlin) 446Chester Beatty Library (Dublin)

667Christ Church College (Oxford) 223Cinquantenaire (Brussels) 107Colosseum (Rome) 730Conciergerie (Paris) 309Corpus Christi College

(Cambridge) 232Dante’s Tomb (Ravenna) 787Dove Cottage (Grasmere) 256Eagle’s Nest (Berchtesgaden) 502Eiffel Tower (Paris) 10, 301-6, 11Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

(Milan) 766Glasgow School of Art 271Grand Place (Brussels) 101, 7Hitler’s Bunker (Berlin) 445Hofbräuhaus (Munich) 492Holocaust Memorial (Berlin) 445Hôtel des Invalides (Paris) 308Houses of Parliament (London) 167La Pedrera (Barcelona) 976Leaning Tower of Pisa 799Les Catacombes (Paris) 307London Eye 175Manneken Pis (Brussels) 101Memorium Nuremberg Trials 508Metropol Parasol (Seville) 1014Morbihan Megaliths (Carnac) 345National Wallace Monument

(Stirling) 278Panthéon (Paris) 308Parthenon (Athens) 575Piazza dei Miracoli (Pisa) 799Piazza San Marco (Venice) 774Piccadilly Circus (London) 163Plaça Reial (Barcelona) 972Place de la Bastille (Paris) 315Plaza Mayor (Madrid) 942Plaza Mayor (Salamanca) 961Pont Neuf (Paris) 309Pont St-Bénézet (Avignon) 403Pont St-Louis (Paris) 309Ponte dei Sospiri (Venice) 774

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1138

INdex H

-J

historical buildings & monuments continued

Real Mary King’s Close (Edinburgh) 266

Reichstag (Berlin) 444Roman Baths (Bath) 211, 18Spanische Hofreitschule 60Spanish Steps (Rome) 741St Peter’s Square (Rome) 738Stasi Prison (Berlin) 453Temple of Athena Nike (Athens)

575Theatre of Dionysos (Athens) 575Topographie des Terrors (Berlin)

452Tower Bridge (London) 173Trafalgar Square (London) 162Trevi Fountain (Rome) 740Trinity College (Cambridge) 231Trinity College (Dublin) 662Tyne Bridge (Newcastle) 245Willow Tearooms (Edinburgh) 271

history see­also­individual­locations, WWI, WII

Anglo-Irish War 717battle of Austerlitz 91battle of Hastings 342battle of Trafalgar 288battle of Waterloo 91, 115, 288Black Death 53Bloody Sunday 713, 718Byzantine Empire 646Celtic Britain 286Crimean War 425Easter Rising 663Franco-Prussian War 425French Revolution 301, 425Good Friday Agreement 719Hapsburg Empire 91Hundred Years War, the 424Industrial Revolution 288Maastricht Treaty 883Moors 930Olympics 646Ottoman Empire 646Reconquista 1036Roman Britain 246, 250, 286Roman Empire 838, 1036Vikings 239

hitchhiking 1119HMS Belfast (London) 175Hochstein 89Hodler, Ferdinand 1068Hofburg (Vienna) 48Hofmann, Albert 1095

Hogarth 167Hohe Tauern National Park 89-90Holbein, Hans 49, 267, 532, 741Holburne, Sir William 212Hollande, François 426Homer 614, 646, 648Honegger, Arthur 1097Hora Sfakion 624horse riding 338, 690, 929, 1031Horta, Victor 107Horton-in-Ribblesdale 238Hotton 138Hove 203-6Howard, Catherine 173Hugo, Victor 315, 426Hunchback­of­Notre­Dame,­The 426Hundertwasser, Friedensreich 53, 67Hungry Hill 685Huxley, Aldous 201Hydra 604-5

IIbiza 1010-12iceskating 54Igoumenitsa 603Il­Postino 840Île de la Cité 309Île Rousse 420Île Ste-Marguerite 413Île St-Honorat 413Île St-Louis 309Îles Lavezzi 424Ilha da Tavira 912Ilha Deserta 911Iliad 646Ingleborough 238Inisfallen 686Inisheer 697, 698Inishmaan 697, 698Inishmór 697, 698Innerrhoden 1088Innisfree 701Innsbruck 47, 80-6, 82insurance 1110, 1118Interlaken 1073-5internet access 1111Interrail passes 1122Inverness 281-2Ioannina 602-3Ionian Islands 639-46Ios 613-14, 613Iraklio 618-20Ireland 40, 659-726, 661

accommodation 720activities 721basics 659-60climate 659culture 719

drinking 660, 720embassies & consulates 721environment 720food 659, 660, 720highlights 661history 716-19itineraries 660language 722money 722opening hours 721public holidays 722resources 660telephone services 722-3tourist information 723travel to/from 660, 723-4travel within 724-6visas 723

Isle of Arran 263Isle of Skye 284Isola Bella 830Italian (language) 1124-5Italy 40, 727-848, 729

accommodation 727, 842activities 843basics 727-8climate 727culture 839-41drinking 728, 841-2embassies & consulates 843environment 841food 727, 728, 841-2, 843highlights 729history 838-9itineraries 728money 728, 844opening hours 843public holidays 844resources 728telephone services 845tourist information 845travel to/from 728, 845-7travel within 847-8visas 845

Ithaki 644itineraries 34-7,­see­also­individual­

locationsIveragh Peninsula 688

JJack the Ripper 175James I of England 287James IV of Scotland 278, 287James V of Scotland 267, 278jamón 1040Jean­de­Florette 427Joan of Arc 340, 350, 424John O’Groats 285Johnson, Boris 162

1139IN

dex J-LJohnson, Samuel 166, 173, 193Joyce, James 666, 673, 695, 719Juan Carlos of Spain 1037Jungfrau 1075-8Jungfraujoch 1052, 1077Jura 381-2, 1086

KKalavryta 590Kampen 556Kandinsky, Wassily 354, 385, 480,

493, 744, 774, 855, 1071Kap Arkona 488Kardamyli 596Karl I 48Kärnten 66Karpathos 628-9Kassandra Peninsula 601Kassiopi 641Kastraki 597Katzenthal 355kayaking 138, 261, 912, 919, 929Kazantzakis, Nikos 648Kefallonia 643-4Keighley & Worth Valley Railway 237Keitum 556Kelly, Grace 418Keswick 257Keukenhof 866Keynes, John Maynard 180, 201Khadra, Yasmina 427Khnopff, Fernand 128, 151Kiefer, Anselm 561Kilkenny 676-8Killarney 685-8Kilronan 698Kinderdijk 874Kinsale 683-4Kioni 644Kipling, Rudyard 166Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig 451, 560Kirkwall 285Kitchener, Herbert 169kitesurfing 293, 1031, 1042Kitzbühel 46, 86-8Klagenfurt 68-9Klee, Paul 402, 451, 480, 493, 539,

774, 973, 1067, 1071, 1097Kleine Scheidegg 1077Klimt, Gustav 49, 53, 54, 65, 66,

92, 744Knights of St John 627, 630Knossos 620Koblenz 527-8Kohl, Helmut 559Kokoschka, Oskar 49, 92Kollwitz, Käthe 560Königssee 502

Kos 629-31Krems an der Donau 63Krimml 87Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna)

49Kythira 645

LLa Besurta 991La­dolce­vita 740La Roche-en-Ardenne 138La Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 23,

938, 976, 23Lac d’Annecy 377lace 134, 338Lacroix, Christian 318Laganas Bay 645Lagos 891, 912-13Lake Constance 90, 523-5Lake District (Britain) 255-7Lake Geneva 1051, 1060-4Lake Maggiore 1088Lake Pamvotida 602Lake Windermere 256Lakones 642Lakonian Mani 595Land’s End 223Lange Wapper 117Languedoc-Roussillon 391-5Larne 712Larochette 148Lasithi Plateau 624-5Last­Supper,­the 766Lausanne 1060-2Lawrence of Arabia 175, 224Le Brocquy, Louis 701Le Brun, Charles 334-5Le Clézio, JMG 427Le Corbusier 636, 1097Le Nôtre, André 334-5Le Strange, Henry 234Lecce 822-3Leeds 234-6Leeuwarden 880Lefkada 642legal matters 1111Léger, Fernand 402Lehár, Franz 77Leibovitz, Annie 853Leiden 851, 866-7Leipzig 472-4Lenbach, Franz 493Lennon, John 252Lens 341León 964-6Leonidio 593Léopold II of Belgium 107, 150Leroux, Gaston 314

Les Baux de Provence 406Les Calanques 396Les Calanques de Piana 422Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil 384Les­Misérables­426Les­Rougon-Macquart 427lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian

travellersL’Escala 987L’Estartit 987Lesvos 635-7Letta, Enrico 839Leuven 116Levy, Marc 427Lewis, CS 224Leysin 1063Libeskind, Daniel 248Lichtenstein, Roy 409, 514Lido, the (Venice) 775Liechtenstein 1092-3Liège 139Lienz 88-9Lier 116Lille 335-8Limerick 691-2Limnionas 645Lindau 525Lindos 628Linz 65-6Lipari 828Lippi, Filippo 741, 793Lisbon 20, 892-906, 894-5, 898

accommodation 896-901Alcântara 895-6Alfama 20, 891, 892-3, 897, 901, 20Baixa 892-3, 896-7, 901Belém 893, 902-31drinking 903entertainment 903-5food 901-3itineraries 892Lapa 893-4Saldanha 893Santa Apolónia 893-4shopping 905sights 892-6tourist information 906travel to/from 906travel within 906

Lissewege 135Listrac-Médoc 388literature, see­individual­writers­and­

worksLitohoro 602Liverpool 251-5Livingstone, Ken 162Llafranc 987Locarno 1088-9

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1140

INdex L-M

Loch Lomond 277-8Loch Ness 281, 282Locke, John 223Locmariaquer 345Loire Valley 302, 359-64London 10, 160, 163, 170-1

accommodation 186-90activities 185Bayswater 189, 192Bloomsbury 180-1, 187-8, 194, 182Camden 181, 192, 194, 184Chelsea 176-7, 187, 191, 178Clerkenwell 174, 192, 194Docklands 181-3drinking 193-4Earl’s Court 188-9entertainment 194-7Farringdon 192, 194Fitzrovia 191food 190-3Fulham 188-9Greenwich 183, 189history 159-62Holburn 174Hoxton 181, 189, 192-3, 194itineraries 159Kensington 176-7, 187, 191, 194Knightsbridge 176-7, 187, 191Marylebone 177-80, 191Mayfair 168-9Notting Hill 189, 192Paddington 189, 192Pimlico 166-8, 186-7shopping 197, 198Shoreditch 181, 189, 192-3, 194sights 162-85South Bank 174-6, 187, 190-1, 193-4Spitalfields 181, 189, 192-3, 194The City 169-74, 187, 193tourist information 197tours 185-6travel to/from 198travel within 198-200West End 162-3, 190, 193, 164-5Westminster 166-8, 186-7, 168

London Eye 175Londonderry 713-15Lorca, Federico García 1038Loreley Rock 526Lorenzetti, Ambrogio 801Lorrain, Claude 356Lorraine 353-8Lough Corrib 699

Lough Erne 715-16Lough Leane 686Louha 645Louis IX of France 309Louis XIII of France 308Louis XIV of France 308, 333, 334-5,

381, 425Louis XV of France 308, 425Louis XVI of France 301Lourdes 389-90Lousios Gorge 593Loutro 624Louvre Museum 312, 313Lower Saxony 542-8Lower Slaughter 227Lowry, LS 248Lübeck 555-6Lucca 729, 803-5Lucerne 1071-3Ludwig II of Germany 493, 504Lugano 1053, 1089-91Lugo 1001Lüneburg 546Luso 920-1Luther, Martin 477, 481, 558Lutherstadt Wittenberg 481Lutyens, Edwin 252Luxembourg 38, 140-9, 102-3

accommodation 99, 152activities 152budgeting 100climate 99culture 150-1drinking 100food 100, 153highlights 102history 149-50holidays 153internet resources 100itineraries 100language 150money 153opening hours 153planning 99-100population 150religion 150travel to/from 100, 153-5

Luxembourg City 19, 102, 140-7, 142Lyon 368-74, 370-1

mMaastricht 851, 880-2Macke, August 538Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 271,

274MacNeice, Louis 224MacTaggart, William 267Madame­Bovary 427

Madrid 937-60, 940-1, 946-7, 950accommodation 945-9drinking 953-4entertainment 954-7food 949-53history 937shopping 957-8sights 937-44tourist information 958tours 944travel to/from 958-9travel within 959

Magdeburg 479Magritte, René 101, 125, 128, 151,

354, 871Mainz 527Málaga 1026-8Malahide 673-4Malham 238Malia 621Malines 116Mallarmé, Stéphane 427Mallorca 1006-10, 1008Mamma­Mia 638Man Booker Prize 289Man Ray 871Manchester 247-50Manet, Edouard 307, 404, 428, 764Mani, the 595-6Mann, Thomas 445Männlichen 1077Manolates 633Mantegna, Andrea 770Manteigas 921Mantel, Hilary 289Manuel I of Portugal 931Maó 1012Marathonisi islet 594Marie Antoinette 81, 301, 309, 333markets

Albert Cuypmarkt (Amsterdam) 862

Berlin Art & Nostalgia Market 462Bloemenmarkt (Amsterdam) 862Borough Market (London) 198Brick Lane Market (London) 198Brixton Market (London) 198Broadway Market (London) 198Camden Market (London) 181, 198Columbia Road Flower Market

(London) 198El Rastro (Madrid) 957Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 905Flohmarkt (Vienna) 61Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz (Berlin)

462Freyung Market (Vienna) 58Grüner Markt (Salzburg) 74Karmelitermarkt (Vienna) 58

1141IN

dex MLes Halles de Lyon 372Marché aux Enfants Rouges

(Paris) 322Marché aux Puces de la Porte de

Vanves (Paris) 331Marché aux Puces de Montreuil

(Paris) 331Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen

(Paris) 331Marché Bastille (Paris) 322Marché Belleville (Paris) 322Marché Couvert (Metz) 357Marché Couvert St-Quentin (Paris)

322Marché Raspail (Paris) 322Mercat de la Boqueria (Barcelona)

969Mercat de Santa Caterina

(Barcelona) 976Monastiraki Flea Market (Athens)

585Naschmarkt (Vienna) 58Odos 1866 (Iraklio) 619Oxford Covered Market 224Petticoat Lane Market (London)

198Porta Portese (Rome) 756Portobello Road Market (London)

198Sunday (Up)market (London) 198Viktualienmarkt (Munich) 492Waterlooplein Flea Market

(Amsterdam) 862Marlowe, Christopher 232, 287Marseille 396-401, 398-9Martini, Simone 789Marx, Karl 181, 445, 529Mary I of England 287Mary, Queen of Scots 267Matera 729, 820-1Matisse, Henri 379, 381, 402, 409,

428, 539, 636, 764, 855, 1071Matterhorn 12, 1065, 1097Maximilian I 60Mayrhofen 86McCarthy, Paul 871McCourt, Frank 691, 719McDonagh, Martin 719McGuinness, Frank 719McPherson, Conor 719measures 1114Mechelen 116Mecklenburg-Vorpommern 483-9Meersburg 525Megalo Papingo 603Meissen 471Melk 64Melrose 263Memling, Hans 101, 129, 151Menalon Mountains 593

Menorca 938, 1012-13Mercedes-Benz 514Mérida 1035-6Merkel, Angela 559Messinian Mani 595-6Mesta 634Metaxas 647Meteora 597-8Metz 357-8Mezquita (Cordoba) 938Michelangelo 49, 224, 313, 466, 738,

739, 740, 745, 785, 789, 792, 793Middelburg 879-80Middleton, Catherine 169Miffy 877Mikro Papingo 603Milan 766-9, 767Miró, Joan 451, 636, 937, 942, 977,

1039, 1071, 1085Mithymna 636-7Mitterrand, François 301, 426Mizen Head Peninsula 684-5mobile phones 1114Modigliani, Amedeo 316, 341, 744, 937Molière 316Molyvos 636Monaco 417-19, 417monasteries, see convents &

monasteriesMonchique 913Mondrian, Piet 855, 868, 884Mondsee 80Monemvasia 594Monestir de Montserrat 986Monet, Claude 267, 307, 340, 341,

342, 354, 356, 379, 385, 402, 428, 467, 493, 514, 854, 893, 1071, 1079

money 25, 1111-13, see­also individual­countries

Monodendri 603Mons 139Monsaraz 916Mont Blanc 376, 1097Mont St-Michel 302, 345, 429Montand, Yves 316Montaner, Lluís Domènech i 973Monti, Mario 839Montignac 384Montreux 1062-3monuments, see historical buildings

& monumentsMoore, Henry 236, 744Morandi, Giorgio 784Morocco 1032Morrison, Jim 316Moselle Valley 149, 527-8mosques

Fetiye Cami (Ioannina)Mezquita (Córdoba) 1019

Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo) 968

Mosque of Süleyman (Rhodes) 627

motorcycle travel 1119Moulin, Jean 308, 369Moulin Rouge (Paris) 328Mt Athos 601Mt Etna 831, 841Mt Ida 620Mt Kynthos 608Mt Olympus 601-2Mt Psiloritis 620Mount Pilatus 1074Mount Rigi 1074Mourne Mountains 707Mozart, Wolfgang Amedeus 69, 72,

75, 92Muckross Lake 686Mukherjee, Raj 1095Munich 16, 489-500, 490-1

accommodation 495-6drinking 498entertainment 498food 496-8history 489shopping 499sights 489-95tourist information 499travel to/from 499travel within 499-500

Munster 353Murano 775Murcia 1001Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 493, 944Mürren 1077, 1078Murten 1070Musée du Louvre (Paris) 312, 313Museo del Prado (Madrid) 944museums & galleries

Acropolis Museum (Athens) 575Albertina (Vienna) 49Ashmolean Museum (Oxford)

224BALTIC Centre for Contemporary

Art (Newcastle) 245Benaki Museum (Athens) 576British Museum (London) 181Byzantine & Christian Museum

(Athens) 577Capitoline Museums (Rome) 735Casa Museu Dalí (Port Lligat) 986Centre Pompidou (Paris) 313Centre Pompidou-Metz 357Centro de Arte Reina Sofía

(Madrid) 937Cité de l’Espace (Marseille) 395Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias

(Valencia) 1001

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1142

INdex M

-N

museums & galleries continuedCollezione Peggy Guggenheim

(Venice) 774Dokumentation Obersalzberg

(Berchtesgaden) 502East Side Gallery (Berlin) 452Fondation Beyeler (Basel) 1085Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 789Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence)

793Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 451Gemeentemuseum (Den Haag) 868Glasgow Science Centre 272Goethe Haus & Nationalmuseum

(Weimar) 475Goldenes Dachl & Museum

(Innsbruck) 80Great North Museum (Newcastle)

244Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 128Imperial War Museum (London) 175Imperial War Museum North

(Manchester) 248Kunsthistorisches Museum

(Vienna) 49Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-

Westfalen (Düsseldorf) 539Leopold Museum (Vienna) 52Louvre-Lens 341Louvre Museum 312, 313M Shed (Bristol) 214MACBA (Barcelona) 973Madame Tussauds (London) 180Mauritshuis (Den Haag) 868MSK (Ghent) 125Mudam (Luxembourg) 141Musée d’Art Moderne et

Contemporain (Strasbourg) 354Musée de Grenoble 379Musée de l’Annonciade (St-Tropez)

414Musée de l’Œuvre Notre Dame

(Strasbourg) 354Musée des Beaux-Arts (Lyon) 369Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nancy) 356Musée des Beaux-Arts (Nantes)

385Musée des Beaux-Arts et

d’Archéologie (Besançon) 381Musée d’Orsay (Paris) 307Musée du Louvre (Paris) 312, 313Musée Horta (Brussels) 107Musée Magritte (Brussels) 101Musée National d’Art Moderne

(Paris) 313Musée Picasso (Paris) 315

Musée Rodin (Paris) 307Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire

(Brussels) 107Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts

(Brussels) 101Museo Archeologico Nazionale

(Naples) 809Museo Civico (Siena) 801Museo del Prado (Madrid) 937, 944Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Rome) 741Museo di San Marco (Florence) 793Museo e Galleria Borghese (Rome)

741-824Museo Guggenheim (Bilbao) 994Museo Nazionale Romano (Rome)

745Museo Picasso Málaga 1026Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

(Madrid) 937Museu d’Història de Barcelona 973Museu d’Història de Tarragona 988Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya

(Barcelona) 977Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 973Museum Boijmans van Beuningen

(Rotterdam) 871Museum het Rembrandthuis

(Amsterdam) 857Museum Sammlung Rosengart

(Lucerne) 1071Museumsinsel (Berlin) 448MuseumsQuartier (Vienna) 49National Archaeological Museum

(Athens) 576National Gallery (London) 162Palazzo Ducale (Venice) 774Palazzo Pitti (Florence) 793Paul Klee Centre (Bern) 1067Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 448Residenzmuseum (Munich) 492Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 855Sprengel Museum (Hanover) 543Städel Museum (Frankfurt-am-

Main) 532Tate Britain (London) 167Tate Liverpool 253Tate Modern (London) 174Tate St Ives 221Teatre-Museu Dalí (Figures) 986Uffizi Gallery 789Ulster Museum (Belfast) 706Universalmuseum Joanneum

(Graz) 66Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam)

854Vatican Museums (Rome) 739Victoria & Albert Museum (London)

176Walker Art Gallery (Liverpool) 252

music 29

music festivalsAstropolis (Brest) 346Donauinselfest (Vienna) 54Eurochocolate (Perugia) 805Kilkenny Rhythm & Roots 677Les Transmusicales de Rennes 346Les Vieilles Charrues de Carhaix

(Carhaix) 346Meltdown Festival (London) 186Montreux Jazz Festival 1062Noites Ritual Rock (Porto) 924Primo Maggio (Rome) 746Puccini Festival (Sienna) 803Salzburg Festival 73Sani Jazz Festival (Kassandra) 601Torino Milano Festival

Internazionale della Musica (Milan) 768

Umbria Jazz Festival (Perugia) 805mustard 366Mycenae 593Mykonos 605-9, 606Mystras 594Mytikas 602Mytilini 635-6

NNafplio 591-3Namur 138Nancy 356-7Nantes 384-6Naples 729, 808-15, 810-11Napoléon Bonaparte 48, 64, 115,

149, 288, 308, 313, 419, 422, 425, 883, 1037

Napoléon III of France 301, 425national parks & reserves

Brecon Beacons National Park 260Connemara National Park 699Dartmoor National Park 220Hoge Veluwe National Park 878Hohe Tauern National Park 89-90Killarney National Park 686Lake District National Park 255-7Parc Naturel Interrégional du

Marais Poitevin 386Parco Nazionale delle Cinque

Terre 762Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês

891, 929Parque Nacional de los Picos de

Europa 997Parque Natural da Arrábida 908Peak District National Park 231Pembrokeshire Coast National

Park 260Snowdonia National Park 161,

260-2Swiss National Park 1094

1143IN

dex N-P

Yorkshire Dales National Park 237-8

Nauman, Bruce 973Navarra 995-7Naxos 610-12, 611Nazaré 918Nelson, Lord Horatio 169Netherlands 18, 19, 40, 849-88, 851

accommodation 849, 885basics 849-50budgeting 850climate 849culture 884drinking 850, 884-5embassies & consulates 885environment 884food 849, 850, 884-5, 885highlights 851history 882-4itineraries 850laws 885money 885-6opening hours 885public holidays 886resources 850telephone services 886travel to/from 850, 886-7travel within 887-8

Neuchâtel 1070Neuschwanstein 504Newcastle (Ireland) 707Newcastle-upon-Tyne (Britain) 244-6Newquay 220Newton, Sir Isaac 166, 231Nice 407-12, 408-9Nicholson, Ben 221nightlife 28, see­also entertainmentNijinsky, Vaslav 317Nijmegen 876Nîmes 391-3Nolde, Emil 543Nordhausen 483Norfolk Broads 231, 236Normandy 340-5North Frisian Islands 556-7North Rhine-Westphalia 535-42Northeastern Aegean Islands 632-7Northern Ireland 703-16, see­

also IrelandNotting Hill Carnival (London) 32Nuremberg 507-10Nydri 642Nyon 1060

OO’Brien, Edna 719O’Casey, Sean 719O’Conaire, Pádraic 694

O’Kelly, Donal 719O’Toole, Peter 193Oberammergau 501-2Oberwesel 526Óbidos 917-18Odyssey 644, 646Offenbach, Jacques 317Oia 615Oktoberfest (Munich) 16, 32, 442,

493, 494Oliver, Jamie 192Olymbos 629Olympia 596Omaha Beach 344Omalos 623On­Her­Majesty’s­Secret­Service 1078Opal Coast 338opening hours 1108, see­

also­individual­countriesopera houses

Arena di Verona 770Gran Teatre del Liceu (Barcelona)

969Grand Opera House (Belfast) 711Opéra de Lyon 373Palais Garnier (Paris) 314Staatsoper (Berlin) 462Staatsoper (Vienna) 59Teatro alla Scala (Milan) 766, 768Teatro Carlo Felice (Genoa) 760,

762Teatro dell’Opera di Roma (Rome)

755Teatro La Fenice (Venice) 781Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie

(Brussels) 113Orkney Islands 285-6Ortisei 788Orvieto 807Orwell, George 194, 201Ostia Antica 759Otto I of Germany 479Ouchy 1061outdoor activities 28,­see­also­

individual­activitiesouzo 650Oviedo 997-8Owain Glyndŵr 287Oxford 223-6Oyster Card 200oysters 347, 389

Ppacking tips 25Padua 771-2Paganini, Niccolò 760palaces, see castles, fortresses &

palacesPalazuelo, Pablo 942

Pale di San Martino 788Paleohora 623Paleokastritsa 642Palermo 824-8, 825Palma de Mallorca 1007, 1007-9Pals 988Pamplona 995-7Panamarenko 151Pane­e­Tulipani 840Paolozzi, Eduardo 236Papandreou, George 647paragliding 86Parikia 609Paris 301-33, 304-5, 310-11

accommodation 317-20activities 316Bastille 317-18, 321-2, 327Champs-Élysées 325drinking 326-8entertainment 328-30food 320-6history 301Île de la Cité 309Île St-Louis 309itineraries 301Latin Quarter 318-19, 322-3, 327Left Bank 301-9Les Halles 317, 320-1, 326-7Marais 317-18, 321-2, 327medical services 331Montmartre 317, 320, 328, 314Montparnasse 324-5, 325-6Odéon 319, 323-4, 327-8Pigalle 320, 325-6, 328République 319Right Bank 312-16shopping 330-1sights 301-16St-Germain 319, 323-4, 327-8tourist information 331tours 316travel to/from 331-2travel within 332-3

parks & gardensCanal St-Martin (Paris) 316, 323Englischer Garten (Munich) 494Green Park (London) 169Herrenhäuser Gärten (Hanover)

543Hortus Botanicus (Amsterdam)

857Hyde Park (London) 177Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris) 307Kensington Gardens (London) 177Keukenhof Gardens (Lisse) 851,

866Kew Gardens (London) 183Park Güell (Barcelona) 977

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1144

INdex P

-R

parks & gardens continuedPark Sanssouci (Potsdam) 465Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid)

943Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

(London) 181Regent’s Park (London) 177Tiergarten (Berlin) 456

Paros 609-10, 609Parthenis, Konstantinos 649Parthenon (Athens) 575Partnachklamm 500Pasterze Glacier 89patisseries 321Patitiri 639Patmos 631-2Patra 589-90Pauillac 388Paxi 642Pays d’Auge 340Peak District 231Pelekas Beach 642Pelion Peninsula 597Peloponnese, the 589-96Pembrokeshire 260Peniche 917Pen-y-Ghent 238Penzance 222-3Peratallada 988perfume 413Pericles 574, 646Perugia 805-7Peter Pan 177Phaestos 620-1Philip II of Macedon 149, 575Philippe-Auguste of France 312Piaf, Edith 316Piana 422Piano, Renzo 761, 1085Picasso, Pablo 428, 1039

museums 315, 973, 1026-7works 49, 232, 354, 356, 379, 385,

402, 404, 451, 493, 514, 539, 543, 636, 764, 774, 855, 937, 1039, 1068, 1071

Picos de Europa 997Pigadia 629Pindar 648Pindos Mountains 602Pinhão 927Piper, John 252Piraeus 587-9, 588Pisa 799-801Pisano, Bonanno 799Pissarro, Camille 267, 316, 341, 428

Pitman, Sir Isaac 212planning

budgeting 24-5calendar of events 30-3countries 38-41internet resources 24-5itineraries 34-7travel seasons 24-5, 30-3

Plymouth 219-20Pocinho 927Poitiers 386-7Pollença 1009Pollock, Jackson 744, 774Pompeii 816, 27Pompidou, Georges 426Poperinge 137Poros 604port wine 923, 924Portinho da Arrábida 908Portmagee 689Porto 891, 921-6, 922-3Portugal 40, 889-934, 930-1, 891

accommodation 889, 931-2activities 932basics 889-90climate 889culture 931drinking 890, 931embassies & consulates

932environment 931food 889, 890, 931, 932highlights 891itineraries 890money 890, 932opening hours 932public holidays 933resources 890telephone services 933travel to/from 890, 933visas 933

Portuguese (language) 1125Positano 819Potsdam 465-6Potter, Beatrix 256pottery 870Poussin 169, 267Powerscourt 674Prora 488Proust, Marcel 315, 316Prouvé, Jean 356Provence 395-407, 396-407Psyhro 625public transport 1119, see­also­

individual­locationsPuccini, Giacomo 804Pullman, Phillip 289Purple Mountain 686

Pyla-sur-Mer 390Pyrgi 634Pythagoras 633Pythagorio 633

QQuedlinburg 482-3Quiet­Man,­The 699Quignard, Pascal 427Quimper 346-7

RRaeburn, Sir Henry 267rafting 86Rainier III of Monaco 418Raleigh, Sir Walter 173, 287Ramsay, Allan 267Randstad, The 864-78, 865Raphael 49, 224, 313, 341, 467, 493,

739, 740, 741, 793, 812, 937Rathen 472Rauch, Neo 473Ravel, Maurice 428Ravenna 786-7Regensburg 443, 511-12Rego, Paula 909Reims 302, 350-1Rembrandt 49, 72, 169, 232, 267, 451,

466, 514, 532, 855, 857, 868, 871, 884, 893, 937

Remich 149Remouchamps 138Reni, Guido 741Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 307, 341, 343,

428, 532, 764, 893Republic of Ireland 662-702, see­

also Irelandreserves, see national parks &

reservesresources 25, see­also­individual­

countriesRethymno 621Reyntiens, Patrick 252Rhine, the 15, 526-7Rhineland-Palatinate 525-9Rhodes 626-8, 626Rhône Valley 364Rías Altas 1001Richard I of England 64Richard III of England 173, 239Richter, Gerhard 467Rimbaud, Arthur 427Ring of Beara 685Ring of Kerry 688-90Ring of Skellig 689Rio Douro 927-8Riviera (French) 407-19road rules 1119

1145IN

dex R-S

Robert the Bruce 266, 278, 287Rochefort 102, 138Rochehaut 138rock climbing 86, 261Rodin, Auguste 101, 307, 338, 381,

855Rodrigues, Amália 931Roman­Holiday 840Romantic Rhine 15, 526-7Romantic Road 503-4Rome 12, 729, 730-59, 732-3, 736-7,

742-3accommodation 747drinking 754-5entertainment 755-6Esquiline 745, 750-1, 754, 748-9food 751-4history 730itineraries 731medical services 756shopping 756sights 730-46Termini 745, 750-1, 754, 748-9tourist information 757Trastevere 744-5, 749-50, 752-3,

746travel to/from 757travel within 758-9Vatican City 735-9, 740, 747, 751

Romeo­and­Juliet 770Ronda 1028-9Room­with­a­View 840Rosa, Salvator 232Rosengart, Angela 1071Rostock 486-7Rothenburg ob der Tauber 506Rotterdam 851, 871-6, 872-3Rouen 340-2Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 308, 426,

1097Route des Vins d’Alsace 353Route des Vins de Jura 382Route du Chocolat et des Douceurs

d’Alsace 353Route du Cidre 340Rowling, JK 289Royal Flanders Ballet 151Royal Shakespeare Company

229Royal Yacht Britannia 267Rubens, Peter Paul 49, 72, 115, 116,

124, 151, 232, 267, 340, 356, 381, 467, 493, 532, 793, 937

Rüdesheim 526Rudolf I of Belgium 48Rügen Island 488ruins, see archaeological sites & ruinsRunge, Otto 560

sSa Calobra 1009Sachsenhausen 464-5safety 1113Sagan, Françoise 427Sagres 914sailing 54, 90, 614Salamanca 961-3Salisbury 208-9Salmond, Alex 289Salzburg 21, 69-76, 70-1Salzkammergut 47, 77-80Samaria Gorge 622-3Samaris, Antonis 648Samos 632-3, 632San Gimignano 805San Martino di Castrozza 788San Sebastián 938, 992-3Sanfermines (Pamplona) 996Sant Antoni 1012Sant Feliu de Guíxols 987Santa Cristina 788Santiago de Compostela 938,

998-1000Santillana del Mar 997Santorini (Thira) 22, 614-17, 615, 22Sappho 635, 648Sardinia 834-7Sargans 1093Sarkozy, Nicolas 426, 429Sarlat-La-Canéda 382-4Saronic Gulf Islands 603-5Sartre, Jean-Paul 427Saving­Private­Ryan 344Saxony 466-74Saxony-Anhalt 479-83scenic journeys 29Schaffhausen 1087-8Schiele, Egon 54, 65, 92Schiller, Friedrich von 475Schiltach 521Schilthorn 1078Schleswig-Holstein 555-6Schloss Hellbrunn 76Schloss Neuschwanstein (Füssen)

504Schlüter, Andreas 487, 560Schmidt-Rottluff, Karl 560Schubert 54, 58, 59, 92Schull 684Schumann, Robert 561Schwerin 484-5Scotland 262-85Scott, Sir Walter 271Scottish Highlands 161Seferis, George 648Segovia 963-4Seia 921

Selketalbahn 483Selva Gardena 788Semois Valley 138Sempere, Eusebio 942senior travellers 1109Serra da Estrela 921Sesimbra 908Settle-Carlisle Railway 243Seurat, Georges 316Seville 938, 1013-19, 1016-17Sgombou 641Shakespeare, William 166, 174, 229,

287, 289Shaw, George Bernard 719Shrewsbury 228Sicily 823-33Siena 729, 801-3Sigefroi, Count of Ardennes 140Signac, Paul 415Signoret, Simone 316Silves 913-14Sintra 891, 907-9Sisi, see Elisabeth of AustriaSisley, Alfred 341, 404Sithonian Peninsula 601Sitia 625Sítio 918Skala Eresou 635, 637Skellig Michael 661, 689Skiathos 637-8skiing 1108

Austria 81, 83, 86, 87, 88, 89France 376, 379Germany 500Italy 788Spain 1042Switzerland 1065, 1076, 1077,

1091, 1093Skipton 237Skopelos 638-9skydiving 1073Slaughters, The 227Slieve League 703Sligo 701-2Snowdon 261-2Snowdonia National Park 260-2Soane, Sir John 174soccer, see footballSolana, José Gutiérrez 942Sóller 1009Somme, The 335-40Sorolla, Joaquín 937Sorrento 817-18Sorrow­of­Belgium,­The 150Sos del Rey Católico 991Sougia 624Sound­of­Music,­The 44, 69, 72, 73,

74, 75, 76

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1146

INdex S

-T

Spain 41, 935-1048, 938-9accommodation 935, 1041-2activities 1042basics 935-6climate 935culture 1038-40drinking 936, 1040-1embassies & consulates 1042employment 1044environment 1040food 935, 936, 1040-1, 1042highlights 938-9history 1036-8itineraries 936language 1043money 936, 1043opening hours 1042public holidays 1043resources 936telephone services 1044tourist information 1044travel to/from 936, 1044-5travel within 1046-8visas 1044

Spanish (language) 1125Sparta 593-4spas 67, 77, 212, 518Spetses 605Spinalonga Island 625Spitzweg, Carl 69, 493Sporades 637-9sporting grounds

Amsterdam Arena 862Camp Nou (Barcelona) 983Estádio da Luz (Lisbon) 905Estádio Nacional (Lisbon) 905Estadio Santiago Bernabéu

(Madrid) 957Millennium Stadium (Cardiff)

257Old Trafford (Manchester) 248Stadio Giuseppe Meazza (Milan)

769SS Great­Britain 214St Andrews 280St Anton am Arlberg 88St Francis de Assisi 807St Gallen 1087St Gilgen 79St Goar 526St Goarshausen 526St Gotthard Mountains 1098St Ives 220-2St John the Baptist 339

St Moritz 1092-4St Ursanne 1086St Wolfgang 79Steiermark 66Stein am Rhein 1088Stein, Gertrude 316Stein, Isa 65St-Émilion 388Stemnitsa 593Stendhal 317Stenness 285Stirling 278-9St-Malo 347-50, 348St-Martin 149Stonehenge 161, 209Stow-on-the-Wold 227Stralsund 487-9Strange­Journey­of­Mr­Daldry 427Strasbourg 353-5Stratford-upon-Avon 229-30Strauss, Johann 55Strauss, Richard 561Stromboli 829, 841Stromness 285St-Tropez 414-16Stuttgart 512-15, 513St-Willibrord 148Styria 66surfing, see also kitesurfing,

windsurfingBritain 220, 293Germany 493Ireland 690, 702Portugal 914, 917Spain 1042

Sweeney Todd 175Swift, Jonathan 666, 719Switzerland 41, 1049-104, 1052-3

accommodation 1049, 1099-100activities 1100basics 1049-50climate 1049culture 1097drinking 1098-9embassies & consulates 1100environment 1097-8food 1049, 1098-9, 1100highlights 1052-3history 1094-6itineraries 1050language 1101money 1050, 1101opening hours 1100public holidays 1102resources 1050telephone services 1102tourist information 1102travel to/from 1050, 1102-3

travel within 1103-4visas 1102

Sylt 556-7Symi 629synagogues

Alte Synagoge (Erfurt) 478Neue Synagoge (Berlin) 449Sinagoga (Córdoba) 1019Sinagoga de Santa María La

Blanca (Toledo) 967Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo) 967Sinagoga Major (Barcelona) 973

Synge, JM 697Syracuse 831-3

TTamariu 987Taormina 830-1tapas 952Tàpies, Antoni 973Tarifa 1031Tarragona 988-9Tavira 891, 911-12taxis 1119Taÿgetos Mountains 594, 595telephone services 1114, see­

also­individual­countriesTennyson, Alfred 166, 231Teruel 991Texel 876Thackeray, William Makepeace 193The Hague, see Den Haagtheatres & concert halls, see­

also opera housesO2 (London) 183Abbey Theatre (Dublin) 672Almeida (London) 195Auditorium Parco della Musica

(Rome) 755Barbican (London) 196Berliner Philharmonie (Berlin) 462BOZAR (Brussels) 113Concertgebouw (Amsterdam) 861Concertgebouw (Bruges) 134Cultuurcentrum Brugge (Bruges)

134Cuvilliés-Theater (Munich) 492Donmar Warehouse (London) 195Druid Theatre (Galway) 697Elbphilharmonie (Hamburg) 549La Cigale (Paris) 329Le Lido de Paris 329Lyric Theatre (Belfast) 711Millennium Forum (Derry) 715Moulin Rouge (Paris) 328Mozarteum (Salzburg) 75Musikverein (Vienna) 59National Concert Hall (Dublin) 672National Theatre (Athens) 584

1147IN

dex T-VNational Theatre (London) 194Old Vic (London) 194Olympia Theatre (Athens) 584Palau de la Música Catalana

(Barcelona) 983Philharmonie (Luxembourg) 145Royal Albert Hall (London) 196, 10Royal Court Theatre (London)

194Royal Festival Hall (London) 197Royal Opera House (London) 197Royal Shakespeare Theatre

(Stratford-upon-Avon) 229Sadler’s Wells (London) 197Schlosskonzerte (Salzburg) 75Shakespeare’s Globe (London)

174Southbank Centre (London)

196Stadsschouwburg (Amsterdam)

862Swan Theatre (Stratford-upon-

Avon) 229Teatro Comunale (Florence) 798Teatro Massimo (Palermo) 826Teatro Olimpico (Rome) 755Teatro San Carlo (Naples) 814Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie

(Brussels) 113Tiroler Landestheater (Innsbruck)

85Tonhalle (Zürich) 1084Wales Millennium Centre (Cardiff)

258Waterfront Hall (Belfast) 711Young Vic (London) 195

Thesiger, Wilfred 224Thessaloniki 598-601, 599Thira, see SantoriniThird­Man,­The 53, 54, 60Thomas, Dylan 193, 194Three Sisters (Glen Coe) 282Thun, Matteo 75Thuringia 474-9Ticino 1088-91Tiepolo, Giovanni 937Time 1114Tintin 108, 360Tintoretto 267, 740, 774, 775, 871, 937tipping 1113Tirol 80-90Titanic 661, 706Titian 81, 232, 267, 313, 381, 422, 467,

493, 740, 774, 775, 793, 812, 871Tivoli 759-60Toledo 967-9Tolkien, JRR 224, 226Tomar 918-19Tombeau du Géant 138Toorop, Charlie 855

Torcello 775Torla 991Tossa de Mar 987, 988Toulouse 393-5Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de

307, 854tourist information 1114, see­

also­individual­locationsTournai 137-9tours 1119-20Tours 361-3Tower of London 172Traben-Trarbach 528Tragaea 611train travel 24, 1115, 1120-2transport 1115-22Traunkirchen 80Traunsee 80travel to/from Western Europe

1115travel within Western Europe

1116-22travellers cheques 1113trekking, see hikingTrento 788Triberg 521-2Trier 528-9Triesenberg 1093Troger, Paul 92Truffaut, François 317truffles 383Trujillo 1033-4Tübingen 516tulips 866Turin 729, 764-6Turner, JMW 167, 267Turner Prize 167Tuscany 14, 787-805Tuymans, Luc 151Twain, Mark 193, 516Twombly, Cy 493Tyrol, see TirolTzermiado 625

UUffizi, see Galleria degli UffiziUllmann, Michael 445Ulysses 673Umbria 805-8United Kingdom 290, see­also BritainUnterseen 1073Upper Slaughter 227Utrecht 876-8

Vvaccinations 1110Vaduz 1092Vaison-la-Romaine 407

Val di Fassa 788Val Gardena 788Valais 1064-6Valencia 1001-5, 1002Valentia Island 689Valldemossa 1009Van der Rohe, Ludwig Mies 480Van der Weyden, Rogier 101Van Dyck, Anton 49, 81, 169, 267, 937Van Eyck, Jan 24, 128, 130, 151,

532, 871Van Gogh, Vincent 139, 307, 402, 404,

406, 493, 854, 884, 1079Vasiliki 642Vasilikos Peninsula 645Vathy 632-3, 644Vatican City 735-9vegetarians 561, 1041Velázquez, Diego 81, 493, 740, 937,

944, 1039Venice 12, 729, 772-84, 773, 778-9,

782-3accommodation 776-7activities 775drinking 781entertainment 781food 779-81history 772-3sights 773-5tourist information 781-3tours 775travel to/from 783-4travel within 784

Ventabren 402Verlaine, Paul 427Vermeer, Johannes 169, 267, 451, 467,

532, 855, 868, 870, 884Verne, Jules 385Verona 729, 770-1Veronese, Paolo 422, 774Versailles 333-4Vesuvius 841Veurne 137Vézère Valley 384Via Appia Antica 751Viana do Castelo 927-8Vianden 147Victoria of England 162, 288Vienna 17, 48-63, 50-1

accommodation 55-6activities 54drinking 58-9entertainment 59-60events 54festivals 54food 56-8highlights 46history 48itineraries 54

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

1148

INdex V

-Z

Vienna continuedshopping 58, 60-1sights 48-54tourist information 61tours 54travel to/from 61-2travel within 62-3

Vikos Gorge 603Vila do Gerês 929visas 25, 1114,­see­also­individual­

countriesVivaldi, Antonio 840Volkswagen 544Voltaire 308, 426von Hildebrandt, Johann Lukas

53, 92von Raitenau, Wolf Dietrich 73Vorarlberg 90-1Voulismeni Lake 625Vourliotes 633Vulcano 829Vyros Gorge 596

wWaddenzee 880Wagner, Otto 54, 66, 92Wagner, Richard 561Wales 257-62walking, see hikingWallace, William 266, 278Wallis, Alfred 221Wallonia 137-40Walsh, Enda 719War of Independence 288Warhol, Andy 65, 409, 493, 514, 536Warnemünde 486-7Warwick 230-1Wastell, John 232waterfalls 87, 138, 521Waterloo 115Waterville 688weather 24, 30-3websites 25, see­also resourcesweights 1114Weimar 475-7Wellenstein 149Wellington, Duke of 169Wells 217-18Wells, Patricia 324Welsh (language) 258Wengen 1077

Werfen 76-7Wernigerode 483Westerland 556Westvleteren 102, 137Westminster Abbey (London)

166Westport 700-1Wexford 675-6whale-watching 1031Where­Eagles­Dare 76Whernside 238whiskey 667, 713Whistler 167White Cliffs of Dover 203White­Material 427Wicklow Way 675Wieskirche 502Wilde, Oscar 316, 666, 719Wilhelm II of Germany 465Wilhelm­Tell 475Wilkie, Sir David 267William, HRH Prince 169, 201William the Conqueror 159, 166, 173,

200, 230, 286, 342, 343, 424Winchcombe 227Winchester 206-7Windermere 256windmills 864, 874Windsor 200-1windsurfing 642, 1031, 1042, 1108wine 26

Austria 93France 355, 382, 388, 410Germany 562Greece 591, 616Italy 841Luxembourg 149Spain 938, 1041

Wismar 485-6Wittdün 557Wittenberg 481Woesten 137Wolfgangsee 79-80Wolfsburg 544Wolsey, Cardinal Thomas 185, 223Woolf, Virginia 180Wordsworth, William 255, 256Wörthersee 68Wouters, Rik 151Wren, Christopher 159, 169, 173, 223Würzburg 506-7

WWI 92, 135, 136, 150, 162, 175, 425, 441, 558, 883

battle of the Somme 339memorials 135, 136Treaty of Versailles 425, 558

WWII 92, 139, 150, 162, 168, 175, 301, 338, 343, 426, 441, 550, 558, 617, 838

Battle of the Ardennes 148D-Day 343-4French Resistance 369, 379Holocaust 53, 445, 464, 475, 500,

545, 857, 883memorials 139, 141, 344Nuremberg Trials 508

Wyk 557

YYeats, Jack B 663, 701Yeats, William Butler 666, 701, 719York 160, 238-43, 240Yorkshire Dales 237-8Ypres 102, 135-7

zZaanse Schans 864Zagorohoria 603Zakros 621Zakynthos 644-6Zapatero, José Luís Rodríguez 1038Zaragoza 989-91Zermatt 1053, 1065-70Zernez 1094Zettersfeld 89Zola, Émile 308, 317, 401, 427Zonnebeke 136zoos 49, 82, 117, 180Zorba­the­Greek 649Zugspitze 500Zuloago, Ignacio 994Zumthor, Peter 90Zürich 1052, 1078-84, 1080-1

accommodation 1081-2drinking 1083-4entertainment 1083-4food 1082-3information 1084shopping 1084sights 1078-9travel to/from 1084

Zwolle 876

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Geoff Mackay, Stephen Poplin

AUTHOR THANKSRyan Ver Berkmoes Thanks to all the authors who worked so hard on this guidebook. Meanwhile in the Nether-lands, thanks to a range of old friends who came through like windmills on a breezy day. In Switzerland, thanks to Claudia Stehle for beers, Damien Simonis for being himself and Judy Slatyer and Peter for a splendid night. And big thanks to the eternally glistening Alexis Averbuck.

Alexis AverbuckHail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot-on recommendations. Marina Flenga was a superlative fairy godmother, connecting me to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Kyri-azakou and Cali Doxiadis (in Kerkyra), Eleni Doxiadi (in Lefkada) and Manita Scocimara-Ponghis (in Kefallonia) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Lena Lambrinou decoded the Acropolis and Elina Lychoudi the nightlife. Anthy and Costas, as

well as Margarita Kontzia and Kostas Kara-katsanis, made it home.

Oliver BerryThanks to Cliff Wilkinson for the England gig, Ryan ver Berkmoes for keeping us on course, and David Carroll, Dan Corbett and the rest of the SPP team for being there whenever we needed you! Special thanks to Susie, Molly and Gracie Berry, and to all the people I met out on the road.

Kerry Christiani A big Dankeschön to all of the super-efficient tourism professionals who made the road to research a breeze, especially Cornelia Pirka in Vienna, Maria Altendorfer and team in Salz-burg and Colette Spiss-Verra in Innsbruck. Thanks to my Vienna friends Chiara and Karin for good times and invaluable tips. Thanks also go to Ryan Ver Berkmoes, my fellow authors and the entire Lonely Planet production team.

Mark ElliottIn a sense I’ve been researching this book for nearly two decades since being dragged very willingly to Belgium by love and bubbles. Sadly neither last forever, it seems. None-theless, my admiration for the country has outlasted everything. A million thanks to my unbeatable family for endless support, and to

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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uncountable folks who have helped me over many years of exploring the region, notably Wieland de Hoon, Hans Rossel, Guy Jacobs, Dani Systermans, Lesley Devos, Valerie de Kerpel and Sharon Taylor.

Duncan GarwoodGrazie to Viviana and Lorenzo for the use of their flat, and to Romano Fini and Nino Amato for helping me break into it. Thanks also to Gudrun Selinger, Federica Matteozzi and Marina Parodi for their advice in Genoa. A toast to fellow scribes Virginia Maxwell and Ryan Ver Berkmoes, and, as always, a huge hug to Lidia, Ben and Nick. To Nello Salvati, my father-in-law who passed away during the writing of this book, I’ll miss you.

Anthony HamHeartfelt thanks to all those madrileños who I have been proud to call friends during my decade in the city. A huge thank you to Dora Whitaker and to all the authors of Lonely Planet’s Spain guide. It was my great fortune a week after arriving in Madrid to meet my wife and soulmate, Marina, who has made this city a true place of the heart. And to Car-lota and Valentina: you are Madrid’s greatest gifts of all.

Virginia MaxwellAs always, many thanks to the staff of tourist offices throughout Italy. Thanks also to my ever-helpful Italy-based coauthor Duncan Garwood. In London, thanks to commissioning editors Helena Smith and Joe Bindloss. In California (or one of the numerous international airports he regularly transits through), thanks to coordinating

author Ryan Ver Berkmoes. In Melbourne, love and thanks to Peter and Max Handsaker, who held the fort.

Craig McLachlanA hearty thanks to all those who helped me out on the road, but most of all, to my ex-ceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who let me know when I’d had my daily quota of Mythos and gyros pitta.

Andrea Schulte-PeeversBig heartfelt thanks to all these wonderful people who’ve plied me with tips, insights, information, ideas and encouragement (in no particular order): Henrik Tidefjärd, Miriam Bers, Petra Gümmer, Julia Schwarz, Frank Engster, Myriel Walter, Heinz ‘Cookie’ Gindul-lis, Heiner Schuster, Steffi Gretschel, Renate Freiling, Silke Neumann, Kirsten Schmidt, Michael Radder, Christoph Münch, Christoph Lehmann, Patrick Schwarzkopf, Danilo Hom-mel, Dr Jasper Freiherr von Richthofen, Julia Schröder, Jan Czyszke and, of course, David Peevers. Kudos to the entire LP team respon-sible for producing such a kick-ass book.

Regis St LouisIn Lisbon, I’d like to thank Guida Moura for her friendship and hospitality, chef Michael Guerrieri for his kindness and insight into the dining scene, and João Teixeira for his mine of local knowledge. Thanks go out to Italian travellers Silvia Luraschi and Cesare Figini for tips on Braga, and to all the helpful tourism officials across the country. As always, beijos to my family Cassandra, Magdalena and Genevieve for their support.

This BookMany people have helped to create this 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Western Europe guidebook, which is part of Lonely Planet’s Europe series. Other titles in this series include Eastern Europe, Mediterranean Europe, Central Europe, Southeastern Europe, Scandinavia and Europe on a Shoestring. Lonely Planet also publishes phrasebooks for these regions.

This guidebook was com-missioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Joe Bindloss, Lucy Monie Hall, Helena SmithCoordinating Editor Samantha ForgeCoordinating Cartog-rapher Valentina KremenchutskayaCoordinating Layout Designer Jessica RoseManaging Editors Annelies Mertens, Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Chris GirdlerAssisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Carly Hall, Elizabeth Harvey, Trent Holden, Anne Mason, Kate Morgan, Anne Mulvaney, Karyn Noble, Sally

O’Brien, Katie O’Connell, Sara-linda Turner, Jeanette Wall Assisting Cartographers Fatima Basic, Julie Dodkins, Alex Leung, James Leversha, Gabriel Lindquist, Laura MatthewmanAssisting Layout Designer Jacqui SaundersCover Research Kylie McLaughlinInternal Image Research Aude VauconsantLanguage Content Branislava VladisavlijevicThanks to Elin Berglund, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Darren O’Connell, Trent Paton, Dianne Schallmeiner, Kerrianne Southway, Joseph Spanti, Navin Sushil, Gina Tsarouhas, Gerard Walker

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1 128Nicola WilliamsKudos to my France coauthors who resolute-ly persevered with an ambitious project that, at times, felt akin to scaling the Eiffel Tower on tiptoes in stilettos. On the road merci mille fois to Corsica aficionado Vincent Lehoux (unsurpassable Ajaccio recommendations); Kasia Dietz and Lindsay Tramuta (Corsica tips by way of Paris); Charlie Johnson (best hidden beach camping); my travel-mad hus-band Matthias, and our trilingual tribe (only car sick once during 2000km of coastal hair-pins covered at average speed of 38km/h).

Neil WilsonThanks to the friendly and helpful tourist of-fice staff all over Ireland, and to all those folk in pubs and on the road who offered advice and recommendations.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Cover photograph: The Matterhorn, Switzerland. David Tomlinson/Getty Images.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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