Central Asia

Stephen Lioy Anna Kaminski, Bradley Mayhew, Jenny Walker

Kazakhstanp288

Kyrgyzstanp54

Tajikistanp141

Turkmenistanp375

Uzbekistanp197

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Central Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Central Asia Map . . . . . . . .6Central Asia’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16First Time Central Asia . . . . . . . . . . . .18If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Month by Month . . . . . . . 24Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Visas & Permits . . . . . . . 32Border Crossings . . . . . . 36Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Community-Based Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Countries at a Glance . . .51

KYRGYZSTAN . . . . . . 54Bishkek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Chuy Oblast . . . . . . . . . . . 73Ala-Archa Canyon . . . . . . . 73Chunkurchak Valley . . . . . . 75Tokmok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Suusamyr Valley . . . . . . . . . 77Northern Kyrgyzstan: Talas Oblast . . . . . . . . . . . 78Northern Kyrgyzstan: Issyk-Köl Oblast . . . . . . . 79Karakol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Ak-Suu Region . . . . . . . . . . 92Northern Kyrgyzstan: Naryn Oblast . . . . . . . . . 100Kochkor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

Son-Köl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Naryn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Tash Rabat . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109Southern Kyrgyzstan: Jalal-Abad Oblast . . . . . 110Jalal-Abad . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Arslanbob . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Kazarman . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Southern Kyrgyzstan: Osh Oblast . . . . . . . . . . . .114Osh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Alay Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Understand Kyrgyzstan . . . . . . . . . . . 126Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 132

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adil Khan, Alan Taylor, Alfonso Morales, Ayal Weiner- Kaplow, Barney Smith, Benjamin Bullock, Bertold Kemptner, Cale Lawlor, Calum MacKellar, Carol Hahn, Carolyn Willadsen, Charles Adams & Jane Hennessy, Christine Jacobson, Elin Monstad, Emily Kydd, Eveline Verbist, Fabrizio Soggetto, Ferdinand Fellinger, Ike Uri, Isaac Mak, Jane Mcnab, Joel Meadows, Judit Hegedus & David Szente, Julie Clarkson, Justyna Ferstl, Lauren Wolfe, Lucy Buckland, Maarten van Gerwen, Perry van Dijck & Anouk Bertram, Marco Svoboda, Mary Rose Burns & Lowell Woodin, Mary Rose-Miller, Maurits Stuyt, Mizio Matteucci, Momo Nedderwedder, Nathan Jeffers, Nicholas Saraiba, Nick Freeland, Olivier Genkin, Peter Kmet, Pravit Chintawongvanich, Ralph Luken, Raphael Favier, Rasmus Aberg & Sarah Benke, Renata Jozic, Robin Roth, Roel Peters, Roelof Kotvis, Ron Perrier, Rouven Strauss, Ruben Mooijman, Stuart Haggett, Suzanne Jacob & David Lloyd, Sylvia Kupers, Tacita Vero, Will Goddard

WRITERS’ THANKSStephen LioyI owe many massive debts of gratitude on this one. To those I continue to explore KG with – Солнишка, Jason, Kent, maybe even Jonny Duncan. To all the people I’ve travelled with over many years here, not least Makiko. To Aigul, though she’s ever thankless! To all the BGI and DMO staff that put up with constant demands for more, especially Gulmira and Aizhan, Rakhat and Aman, Nargiza/Nasiba/Atabek/Meerim/Muslima, Gulira and Asel, and Kyle – the cracker of the whip.

Anna KaminskiI’d like to thank Megan for entrusting me with Kazakhstan, John, Bradley and Mark for the advice and support, Saule and Steven for the info and the company in Almaty/nuclear waste-land, David for the info, Leonie, John and Dinara in Turkestan, Svetlana in Aksu-Zhabagly NP, Pavel for expert guiding around Almaty, Ramil, Roma and Yura – my Mangistau fixer and drivers, Serik in Aral, and all the provodniks who made ventilation in platzkart possible.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Bradley MayhewThanks to Rafael and Oybek at Topchan, Pav-el at Art Hostel, Rovshan at Gulnara’s, Murod and Sevara at Advantour, David at Stan-tours, Sherzod Norbekov, Mariko Shishido in Samarkand, Odil and Zafar at Jahongir B&B, Jama at the Amelia, Mila Ahmedova in Bukhara and thanks to co-writers Anna, Jenny, Stephen and the Turkmenistan writer for their input.

Jenny WalkerTajikistan, the so-called roof of the world, puts no such lid on the hospitality shown to visitors. A general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in this country update. Specific thanks to Dylan Harris of Lupine Travel for facilitating transport, to ‘captain’ Alishour Afreddun for his insightful guiding and to ‘romeo’ for the

safe delivery along the legendary Pamir Hwy. Biggest thanks to beloved ‘general’ Sam (Owen), husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller.

Turkmenistan WriterI cannot express enough my huge thanks for those that helped with this update – you know who you are!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Tilla-Kari Medressa, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, eFesenko/Shutterstock ©

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Central Asia guide-book was researched and written by Stephen Lioy, Anna Kaminski, Bradley Mayhew, Jenny Walker, and a writer who has chosen to remain anon-ymous. The previous edition was also written by Bradley, along with Mark Elliott, Tom Masters and John Noble, and the 5th edition by Bradley, John, Greg Bloom, Paul

Clammer and Michael Kohn. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Megan EavesProduct Editor Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographers David Kemp, Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Katherine MarshSenior Product Editor Kate Chapman

Assisting Editors Katie Connolly, Pete Cruttenden, Samantha Forge, Gabby Innes, Kate Kiely, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Charlotte Orr, Monique PerrinCartographers Mark Griffiths, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Kate James, Luca & Aijan Lässer, Anne Mason, Lyahna Spencer, Kira Tverskaya

%7 / POP 17.8 MILLION

Best Places to Eat ¨Olivia (p318)

¨ Line Brew (p300)

¨ Tandoor (p299)

¨My Cafe (p300)

¨ Izumi Tai (p342)

¨Gosti (p299)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Rixos Khadisha Shymkent (p317)

¨Wild Nature (p321)

¨Orbita Boutique Hotel (p317)

¨ Rixos Almaty (p298)

¨ Zhanara’s Homestay (p311)

¨Hostel Astana (p339)

When to Go

Apr–Jun Natu-ralists’ heaven as the steppe and hills blossom and migrating birds flock in.

May–Sep The weather is per-fect; from July it’s hiking season.

Nov–Apr It’s cold, but skiers enjoy Central Asia’s best facilities at Chimbulak.

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KazakhstanWhy Go?The world’s ninth-biggest country is the most economically advanced of the ’stans’, thanks to its abundant reserves of oil and most other valuable minerals. This means generally better standards of accommodation, restaurants and trans-port than elsewhere in Central Asia. The biggest city, Al-maty, is almost reminiscent of Europe with its leafy avenues, chic ALZhiR Museum-Memorial Complex, glossy shopping centres and hedonistic nightlife. The capital Astana, on the windswept northern steppe, has been transformed into a 21st-century showpiece with a profusion of bold futuris-tic architecture. But it’s beyond the cities that you’ll find the greatest travel adventures, whether hiking in the high mountains and green valleys of the Tian Shan, searching for wildlife on the lake-dotted steppe, enjoying homespun hos-pitality in village guesthouses, or jolting across the western deserts to remote underground mosques.

Includes ¨Almaty ....................... 292Central Tian Shan .......313Turkestan .................. 322Aral ............................ 325Astana ........................ 333Altay Mountains ........ 353Semey ....................... 354Understand Kazakhstan ................ 358Survival Guide ............364

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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TOP TIP ¨Make the effort to get

beyond Kazakhstan’s cities to the beautiful mountain, steppe or desert country, and the hospitality of rural homestays and guesthouses. Side trips to Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve or Sayram-Ugam National Park are easy.

Fast Facts ¨Area 2.7 million sq km

¨Capital Astana

¨Currency Tenge (T)

¨ Languages Kazakh, Russian

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 255T

Canada C$1 257T

China ¥10 510T

Euro zone €1 400T

Japan ¥100 304T

NZ NZ$1 237T

Russia R10 56T

UK UK£1 450T

USA US$1 324T

Resources ¨ Edge (www.edgekz.com) ¨Visit Kazakhstan (www.

visitkazakhan.kz) ¨ Lonely Planet (www.

lonelyplanet.com/kazakhstan)

Visas & PermitsCitizens of 45 countries, including EU states, Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Korea, Switzerland, the USA and some other countries can travel to Kazakhstan without a visa for up to 30 days; as always in this region it is best to check that this arrangement con-tinues. For most other visas you must obtain a letter of invi-tation (LOI) before applying, available through most travel agencies in Kazakhstan and Central Asia travel specialists in other countries.

Registration is required if you are staying in Kazakhstan more than five days – only if you enter by land or sea and your entry form is stamped once rather than twice. If it’s stamped twice, you don’t need to register. It is not necessary to register if you enter by air.

COSTS

Relative CostSlightly more expensive than Uzbekistan, but cheaper than Turkmenistan.

Daily Expenses ¨Hostel dorm (Almaty or Astana): 2800–3500T

¨Comfortable hotel double:12,000–20,000T

¨ Stolovaya (canteen) meal 1000T, restaurant dinner: 5000–7000T

¨ Admission to museums: 500–1000TTrain: Almaty to Astana: platskartny (hard-sleeper)/kupeyny (soft-sleeper) 4443/9774T, high speed 13,567T

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bathroom, including break-fast): $ <8200T, $$ 8200–22,800T, $$$ >28,000T

Eating (main course): $ <1500T, $$ 1500–3000T, $$$ >3000T

Itineraries ¨One week Explore Almaty and take four or five days to

explore Kolsai Lakes , the Charyn Canyon and the Altyn-Emel National Park.

¨ Two weeks Extend the weeklong itinerary with time in southern Kazakhstan: Shymkent, lovely Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve, the splendour of Turkestan and the spectacular arid scenery and eerie Soviet boat wrecks on the bank of the Aral Sea.

¨One month You can get round the whole country, visiting remote destinations such as the ancient underground mosques of Mangistauin, the pristine Altay Mountains and the glitz of 21st-century architecture in Astana, the capital.

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%996 / POP 5.76 MILLION

Best Places to Eat ¨Chaikana Navat (p64)

¨ Pur-Pur (p64)

¨ Shashlyk No. 1 (p64)

¨ Supara Ethno-Complex (p64)

¨ Tsarskii Dvor (p119)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Southside B&B (p62)

¨ Supara Chunkurchak (p75)

¨ Kara-Kyz Yurt-Camp (p95)

¨ Sary-Oi Yurt-Camp (p122)

¨BUGU Hotel (p60)

¨Bel-Tam Yurt-Camp (p98)

When to Go

May–Jun Flowers bloom and tourist numbers are low; higher mountains may be snow-bound.

Jul–Sep Ideal for treks; many festivals; accom-modation heavily booked; cities stiflingly hot.

Dec–Mar Rural accommodation closed; trekking areas inaccessible; great for skiing and winter sports.

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KyrgyzstanWhy Go?Officially the Kyrgyz Republic (Кыргызская Республика), Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан) is a nation defined by its natu-ral beauty. Joyously unspoilt mountainscapes, stark craggy ridges and rolling jailoos (summer pastures) are brought to life by seminomadic, yurt-dwelling shepherds. Add to this a well-developed network of homestays and visa-free travel, and it’s easy to see why Kyrgyzstan is the gateway of choice for many travellers in Central Asia.

As can be expected in a country where the vast majori-ty of attractions are rural and high altitude, the timing of your visit is crucial. Summer is ideal with hikes and roads generally accessible. Midsummer also sees Kazakh and Rus-sian tourists converge on the beaches of never-freezing Lake Issyk-Köl. From October to May, much rural accommoda-tion closes down and the yurts that add such character to the Alpine vistas are stashed away – think twice about a win-ter visit unless you’ve come to ski or snowboard.

Includes ¨Bishkek . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Karakol . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Son-Köl . . . . . . . . . . 102Naryn . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Tash Rabat . . . . . . . . . .109Jalal-Abad . . . . . . . . .111Arslanbob . . . . . . . . . 112Osh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Uzgen . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Understand Kyrgyzstan . . . . . . . . . .126Survival Guide. . . . . . . 132

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan

TOP TIP ¨ The real draw

is exploring the countryside, and our suggestions are just initial pointers. The best way to explore is to simply head out into jailoos and hills and find your own way. But remember that everything is seasonal.

Fast Facts ¨Area 199,990 sq km

¨Capital Bishkek

¨Currency som

¨ Languages Kyrgyz, Russian

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 54.18som

Canada C$1 54.06som

China ¥1 10.90som

Euro zone

€1 84.74som

Japan ¥100 63.44som

NZ NZ$1 50.13som

Russia R10 11.90som

UK UK£1 95.40som

USA US$1 68.85som

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨CBT (www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg) ¨GoKG (http://gokg.asia) ¨ Tenti (http://tenti.kg) ¨ Trip to Kyrgyzstan

(https://triptokyrgyzstan.com/en/map)

Visas & PermitsAt least 60 nationalities can visit Kyrgyzstan without visas, including citizens of Korea, Japan, most major Western countries and former Soviet countries. Many visitors who do need a visa can arrange for one online (www.evisa.e-gov.kg).

COSTS

Relative CostMarginally the cheapest state in Central Asia.

Daily Expenses ¨Hostel dorm (Bishkek) or rural homestay:

400–700som

¨Midrange hotel: US$30–50

¨ Street snack: 40–60som

¨ Self-service cafeteria meal: 60–150som

¨Good restaurant meal in Bishkek: 400–1200som

¨ Full day horse riding with guide: 1800–3000som

¨ Long-distance share-taxi seat: 300–1000som

¨ Long-distance car with driver per day: 3000som

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bath): $ >1750som, $$ 1750–4800som, $$$ >4800som

Eating (main course): $ <250som, $$ 250–700som, $$$ >700som

Itineraries ¨One Week Head for Lake Issyk-Köl, where Karakol makes

an ideal base for exploring the diversity of Kyrgyzstan’s culture and heading out for a few days’ skiing or hiking in the mountains (depending on the season).

¨ Two Weeks Visit Issyk-Köl and Son-Köl, then head through the mountains via the Kazarman route or back to Bishkek on public transport. Either way, your destination is the Fergana Valley via Osh, stopping in pretty Arslanbob en route or continuing south all the way to the spectacular Alay mountains.

¨One Month With more time you can add a two-week pre-arranged horse trek, mountaineering or trekking expedition to the two-week itinerary, or plan trips to remote corners of the country like Köl-Suu lake or Inilchek glacier.

55

A Warm WelcomeWhether you want to explore the archi-tectural gems of Bukhara or take a horse trek across the high Pamirs, everywhere in Central Asia you’ll be greeted with instinctive local hospitality and offered a shared meal, a helping hand or a place to stay. Beyond Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities, mass tourism has yet to make any inroads in Central Asia, lending an authentic sense of discovery to each trip. Add to this the intrinsic fascination of a forgotten region slowly emerging as a geopolitical pivot point and you have one of Asia’s most ab-sorbing hidden corners.

Footprints of HistoryFrom Alexander the Great to Chinggis (Genghis) Khan to Timur (Tamerlane), Central Asia’s page-turning history lit-ters the land at every turn. From the right angle and with one eye closed, the storied oasis caravan stops of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their exotic skylines of min-arets and medressas, really do seem to be lifted directly from the age of Marco Polo. Share a round of kebabs with an Uzbek trader or wander an ancient caravanserai and historical romantics will find the past and present begin to blur into one in Cen-tral Asia.

Mountains & YurtsEast of the desert and steppe settlements rise the snow-capped Pamir and Tian Shan ranges of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, home to traditional herding communities and some truly epic mountain scenery. Here community-based tourism projects can bring you face to face with nomadic Kyr-gyz herders, meeting them in their yurts and on their terms. Ride out to remote lakes on horseback, hike from one village homestay to another, or take a 4WD out to remote archaeological sites. The scope for adventure and exploration here is almost limitless.

Travel off the MapFor decades – centuries even – much of the world has regarded Central Asia as a blank on the map, synonymous with the middle of nowhere, rather than the heartland of Asia. For a certain type of wanderer, this is all part of the attraction of a land that has been largely off-limits to travellers for the last 2000 years. Head even a little bit off the beaten track and you’ll likely have the place to yourself. The region’s little-visited oddities, namely Turkmenistan and most of Kazakhstan, are even further removed from the modern world and offer an addic-tive interest all of their own.

Welcome to Central Asia

With its medieval blue-domed cities, kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays,

Central Asia encapsulates the romance of the Silk Road like nowhere else.

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Above: Uzbek children, Bukhara (p247)

Why I love Central AsiaBy Bradley Mayhew, Writer

Each republic in Central Asia has its own attraction for me. In Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan I love the unrivalled mountain scenery and the incredible tradition of hospitality among the local Wakhi and Kyrgyz. In Uzbekistan it’s the glorious weight of history and the sense of travelling in the sand-prints of some of history’s greatest travellers and invaders. There’s also something unique and even slightly weird about Central Asia, as if the normal rules of tourist engagement don’t quite apply. For me it’s a completely addictive place; I freely admit to being a Stan-oholic.

For more about our writers, see p512

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Best Places to Eat ¨Chaykhona Rokhat (p151)

¨Davlatkhon Homestay (p183)

¨Dilovar’s Villa (p163)

¨Delhi Darbar (p178)

¨Darvaz Sangakov Bahrom (p174)

¨ Sayokhat (p161)

Best Places to Stay

¨Marian’s Guesthouse (p147)

¨ Serena Hotel (p150)

¨ Karon Palace (p174)

¨Guesthouse Shahboz (p163)

¨ Lal Hotel (p178)

¨ Erali Guesthouse (p184)

%992 / POP 8.7 MILLION

When to Go

Mid-Jun–Sep The cities sizzle, but this is the only vi-able time for High Pamir treks.

Apr–May Mild in the lowlands; heavy showers cause landslides blocking mountain roads.

Nov–Feb Tem-peratures in the Pamirs drop to between -20°C and -45°C (-4°F to -49°F).

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TajikistanWhy Go?The term ‘predominantly mountainous’ doesn’t do justice to a country where over 90% of the land is upland. This fact of nature has given Tajikistan a precious advantage over its neighbours, namely some of the most inspiring, high- altitude landscape in the world. Within an hour of Dushan-be lie multi-hued lakes, peaks that beg to be climbed and high passes that thrill even reluctant travellers. In among this natural splendour are scattered villages and towns that survive cheek-by-jowl through each extreme season. It hasn’t been easy for these traditional communities to adapt to the changing world beyond their mountain strong-holds, but despite this they are unfailingly welcoming of outsiders and cheerfully excuse cultural faux-pas as part and parcel of their proud democracy. For visitors tolerant of a few travelling hardships (outdoor loos, cold water, potholed roads), the country more than compensates with a rare glimpse into life lived on ‘The Roof of the World’.

Includes ¨Dushanbe ..................143Fergana Valley .............154Khojand ......................155Fan Mountains ............162The Pamirs ..................167Khorog ........................176Understand Tajikistan .................... 186Survival Guide .............192

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TOP TIP ¨Hire a 4WD. With

public transport minimal to non-existent in much of the country, a car and driver transforms a visit to Tajikistan, especially in the Pamirs.

Fast Facts ¨Area 143,100 sq km

¨Capital Dushanbe

¨Currency US dollar, Tajik somoni (TJS)

¨ Languages Tajik, Russian, Uzbek, Sogdian, several Pamiri languages, Kyrgyz

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 6.93TJS

Canada C$1 7.13TJS

China ¥10 13.90TJS

Euro zone

€1 10.84TJS

Japan ¥100 8.11TJS

NZ NZ$1 6.40TJS

Russia R100 15.11TJS

UK UK£1 12.20TJS

USA US$1 8.82TJS

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨Asia Plus (www.asiaplus.

tj/en) ¨Pamirs (www.pamirs.org) ¨PECTA (www.visitpamirs.

com) ¨ Tajik Tourism (http://

tajiktourism.com) ¨ Trekking in the Pamirs

(www.trekkinginthepamirs.com)

Visas & PermitsFor most nationalities e-visas (US$50) are available online at www.evisas.tj. These e-visas are valid for 45 days and in-clude the permit for GBAO (eastern Tajikistan).

COSTS

Relative CostMore expensive than Kyrgyzstan, but cheaper than Uz-bekistan (unless you’re renting a 4WD).

Daily Expenses ¨ Floor space in homestay: US$10

¨Double room with bathroom: US$50–100

¨ Self-catering: US$5

¨ Three meals in homestays: US$15

¨Overnight guided trek: US$100–150

¨ Seat in shared taxi: US$45

¨Charter of small 4WD with driver: US$80

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast): $ <US$40, $$ US$40–150, $$$ >US$150

Eating (main course): $ <US$5, $$ US$5–30, $$$ >US$30

Itineraries ¨One week After two nights in Dushanbe travel north

to Khojand. On the outward journey spend two nights at Iskander-Kul and Sarytag to allow a day’s trekking in the Fan Mountains. Overnight in Khojand and spend the morning enjoying the citadel and bazaar and either return to the capital or travel on to the Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan borders.

¨ Two weeks Allow five days to travel from Dushanbe to Osh along the Pamir Hwy. Break the journey in the friendly towns of Kalai-Kum and Khorog and allow a day to absorb the windswept isolation of Murgab. In 10 days, add in the sourthern route between Khorog and Murgab, through the timeless Wakhan Valley with its ancient shrines and traditional culture.

¨ Three weeks Combine the one- and two-week itineraries (with the relevant multiple entry visa) to make a circuit through Tajikistan either starting in Dushanbe or in Osh. Travelling anticlockwise has a slight edge on the journey in reverse.

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Best Places to Eat ¨Coffee House (p384)

¨Hotel Ýyldyz Panoramic Restaurant (p384)

¨ Șa Kofe (p384)

Best Places to Shop

¨ Altyn Asyr Marketing Centre (p385)

¨ Altyn Göl (p385)

¨ Tolkuchka Bazaar (p385)

¨Berkarar (p385)

%993 / POP 5.3 MILLION

When to Go

Apr–Jun Bright sunshine and cool temperatures combine to create the best climate for travel.

Sep–Nov The fierce summer heat gradually cools and the win-ter approaches.

Dec Wrap up warmly; expect to see snow in the desert and very few other travellers!

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TurkmenistanWhy Go?By far the most mysterious and unexplored of Central Asia’s ‘stans, Turkmenistan became famous for the truly bizarre dictatorship of Saparmyrat Niyazov, who ruled as ‘Turk-menbashi’ (‘leader of the Turkmen’) until his death in 2006. Niyazov covered this little-known desert republic with gran-diose monuments and golden statues of himself. Although many of these statues have since been dismantled, plenty of visitors still think of Turkmenistan as a sort of totalitarian theme park. But the least-visited of Central Asia’s countries is far more than this – it’s an ancient land of great spiritual-ity, tradition and natural beauty.

The ancient cities of Merv and Konye-Urgench inspire visions of caravans plodding along the ancient Silk Road, while the haunting beauty of the Karakum desert and oth-er quirky natural phenomena are equally mesmerising. The full Turkmen experience is ultimately about mingling with the warm and fascinating people themselves, whose hospi-tality is the stuff of legend.

Includes ¨Ashgabat .................... 377Mary ........................... 387Merv ...........................388Turkmenabat ..............391Karakum Desert ......... 392Dashoguz ................... 392Konye-Urgench .......... 393Turkmenbashi ............ 395Understand Turkmenistan .............396Survival Guide ............399

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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TOP TIPS ¨ Spending time in

Ashgabat means you don’t have to be with a guide, and is a good way to cut costs, although you do still need to be on an organised trip.

¨ The other way to avoid travelling with a guide is to get a transit visa, although they tend to only be valid for three to five days, depending on your route across the country.

Fast Facts ¨Area 488,100 sq km

¨Capital Ashgabat

¨Currency manat (M)

¨ Languages Turkmen, Russian, Uzbek

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 2.80M

Canada C$1 2.73M

China ¥10 5.53M

Euro zone €1 4.34M

Japan ¥100 3.27M

NZ NZ$1 2.54M

Russia R100 6.09M

UK £1 4.88M

USA US$1 3.50M

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨ Lonely Planet

(www.lonelyplanet.com/turkmenistan)

¨Caravanistan (http://caravanistan.com)

¨Gundogar (www.gundogar.org)

¨News & Information (www.turkmenistan.gov.tm)

Visas & PermitsEveryone requires a visa for Turkmenistan, and unless you’re on a transit visa, you need to be accompanied by a guide throughout your stay.

COSTS

Relative CostThe most expensive country in Central Asia.

Daily Expenses ¨Basic hotel room: US$60

¨Midrange hotel room: US$120

¨ Kebab lunch: US$5

¨ Pizza and a beer: US$8

¨Dinner at hotel: US$30

¨Museum entry: US$10

¨Bus ride in Ashgabat: US$0.10

¨ Taxi ride within Ashgabat: US$3

¨Domestic flight: US$100

Price RangesSleeping (for two people): $ <US$50, $$ US$50–100, $$$ >US$100

Eating (main course): $ <20M, $$ 20–50M, $$$ >50M

Itineraries ¨One Week Spend at least three days in and around

Ashgabat before heading east to visit the ancient sites of Merv and Gonur Depe. From here, return to Ashgabat and travel north to Konye-Urgench, camping en route at the unforgettable Darvaza Gas Craters.

¨ Two Weeks Along with the sights mentioned above, take the time for some activities, such as horseback riding in Geok-Dere or a visit to the Köw Ata Underground Lake and make a trip to the Yangykala Canyon and Turkmenbashi.

¨ Three Weeks Arriving on a transit visa, spend a day in fascinatingly weird Ashgabat, cross the Karakum desert and spend the night camping by the Darvaza Gas Craters and then wrap things up with a visit to historic Konye-Urgench.

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CENTRAL ASIA TODAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406Rebuilding national identities, regional rivalries and a shared post-Soviet past dominate modern Central Asia today.

HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408Continent-spanning empires, Silk Road cultural exchanges and imperial intrigue: Central Asia’s history is as colourful as it gets.

THE SILK ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428Great civilisations connected by a web of trading routes, the Silk Road marks Central Asia’s cultural zenith.

PEOPLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Nomads and warriors, Turkic and Persian, European and Asian: Eurasia’s cultural mix is endlessly fascinating.

ISLAM IN CENTRAL ASIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439Islam rules here, but the softer Sufi brand dominates after 70 years of Soviet atheism.

THE ARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443From Zoroastrian-inspired embroidery to the handpicked bards of Manas, art embodies the history and cultural of Central Asia.

ARCHITECTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Central Asia’s most impressive artistic heritage, the region’s architecture features some of the world’s most beautiful Islamic buildings.

ENVIRONMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451Disappearing seas, desertification and nuclear fallout make for few feel-good stories here.

Understand Central Asia

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

A New OrientationIt’s not all political dictatorship and economic hard-ship. After the confusion and social turmoil of the 1990s life has settled for many Central Asians. Econ-omies are growing and standards of living are rising. Grassroots community tourism projects are flourish-ing in much of the region. International crossings have been retied with China, Afghanistan and Iran, opening up new opportunities for trade and tourism, and are fast reconnecting the region to the rest of the world.

All this reflects the redrawing of Central Asia. Where once Tashkent and Ashgabat looked north to distant Moscow for economic and political direction, modern Central Asians now turn also to China, Turkey, Iran, Europe and the US, all of whom are equally intent on redefining spheres of influence long blocked by the Iron Curtain. The US-led ‘War on Terror’ simply raised the stakes in a preexisting geopolitical game that envel-ops everything from transcontinental gas pipelines to US and Russian military bases in the region.

The death of Uzbekistan President Karimov in 2016 has ushered in some positive economic and political changes in Uzbekistan, from currency and visa reform to new regional transport connections. The region’s main political question mark is whether the new Uz-bek regime will continue these modest liberalisations and improve regional ties with neighbouring Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, as well as international relations with the outside world.

Differing PathsIn addressing their shared postindependence challeng-es the Central Asian governments are forging quite different paths. Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan are the only republics that seem to have bright economic prospects – sitting pretty on enormous reserves of oil

Central Asia Today

Best in PrintThe Lost Heart of Asia (Colin Thubron; 1994) Our favourite travel writer captures the region in beautiful prose. Also try his more recent Shadow of the Silk Road (2007).The Great Game (Peter Hopkirk; 1990) Fast-paced and immensely readable account of 19th-century Victorian derring-do.The Land that Disappeared (Chris-topher Robbins; 2008) Excellent contemporary account of Kazakhstan.The Silk Road: A Travel Companion (Jonathan Tucker; 2015) A mixture of history, culture and architecture, focusing on Central Asia, Afghanistan and Iran.

Best on FilmThe Desert of Forbidden Art (2010) Excellent documentary about Igor Savitsky and the 40,000 items of Soviet art he secretly collected in Karakalpakstan.Orlando (1992) Sally Potter’s film of the Virginia Woolf novel has some spectacular scenes filmed in Khiva.Borat (2006) Kazakhstan’s most famous fake citizen is ridiculous, but he’s also hilarious and the satire is biting at times.Tulpan (2008) Kazakh drama about life on the steppe, as the main character tries to woo his prospective wife Tulpan.

For the people of ex-Soviet Central Asia it’s been a turbulent quarter-century since inde-pendence in 1991. Each of the republics have grappled with economic collapse, population shifts and resurgent Islam. All are reinventing their past, rehabilitating historical heroes and reinforcing their national languages in an attempt to redefine and shore up what it means to be Central Asian. Despite years of political repression and faltering economies, life is improving slowly, if unevenly, across the region.

406 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Best Places to Eat ¨ Afsona (p211)

¨National Food (p210)

¨ Platan (p237)

¨Minzifa (p257)

¨ Terasse Cafe (p268)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Jahongir B&B (p235)

¨ Amelia Boutique Hotel (p255)

¨ Emir B&B (p256)

¨ Antica (p236)

¨Meros B&B (p268)

%998 / POP 32.1 MILLION

When to Go

Apr–Jun Clear skies, sunshine and cool air combine to create perfect travel conditions.

July & Aug The extreme heat of the summer means bargains can be had at many hotels.

Sep & Oct Days remain warm despite the summer having passed and it’s yet to get cold.

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UzbekistanWhy Go?The region’s cradle of culture for more than two millennia, Uzbekistan is the proud home to a spellbinding arsenal of architecture and ancient cities, all deeply infused with the bloody, fascinating history of the Silk Road. In terms of sights alone, Uzbekistan is Central Asia’s biggest draw and most impressive showstopper.

Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva never fail to impress vis-itors with their fabulous mosques, medressas and mauso-leums, while its more eccentric attractions, such as the fast disappearing Aral Sea, the fortresses of desperately remote Karakalpakstan, its boom town capital Tashkent and the ecotourism opportunities of the Nuratau Mountains, mean that even the most diverse tastes can be catered for.

Despite being a harshly governed police state, Uzbekistan remains an extremely friendly country where hospitality re-mains an essential element of daily life and you’ll be made to feel genuinely welcome by the people you meet.

Includes ¨Tashkent ..................... 199Kokand ........................219Fergana ...................... 223Andijon ....................... 226Samarkand ................ 228Shakhrisabz ...............240Bukhara ...................... 247Urgench......................260Khiva .......................... 262Moynaq ...................... 272Understand Uzbekistan ................. 274Survival Guide ............ 279

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Uzbekistan Uzbekistan Uzbekistan

TOP TIP ¨Uzbekistan

has charming accommodation (especially B&Bs), but book well in advance during high season, especially in Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand, where all the best places will normally be full. Lesser options are unfortunately a big step down in comfort and atmosphere. Home- and yurtstays are possible.

Fast Facts ¨Area 447,400 sq km

¨Capital Tashkent

¨Currency som (S)

¨ Languages Uzbek, Russian, Tajik, Karakalpak

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 6400S

Canada C$1 6500S

China ¥10 12,940S

Euro zone €1 10,100S

Japan ¥100 7600S

NZ NZ$1 5800S

Russia R100 14,300S

UK £1 11,400S

USA US$1 8200S

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨Advantour (www.

advantour.com) ¨Karakalpakstan (www.

karakalpak.com) ¨Orexca (www.orexca.com) ¨ Lonely Planet (www.

lonelyplanet.com/uzbekistan)

Visas & PermitsUzbek visas are needed by almost all nationalities. They are relatively painless to obtain, and most nationalities no longer require a letter of invitation.

COSTS

Relative CostCheaper than Kazakhstan, but more expensive than Tajikistan.

Daily ExpensesBudget: Less than US$40

¨Hostel dorm: US$10–12

¨Bukhara B&B double: US$45–70

¨ Shashlyk: US$1

¨Good restaurant meal: US$4

¨ Shared taxi Bukhara to Khiva: US$10 per person

¨ Tashkent fast train to Samarkand: economy class US$8

¨ Flight from Tashkent to Urgench: US$102

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast) $ <US$30, $$ US$30–70, $$$ >US$70

Eating (main course) $ <10,00S, $$ 10,000–20,000S, $$$ >20,000S

Itineraries ¨One Week In one week you can cover ‘the big three’ in a

trans-steppe dash. Start in impressive Samarkand to explore the pearls of Timurid-era architecture, zip to enchanting Bukhara to see the Lyabi-Hauz, tour the Ark and gape at the 47m Kalon Minaret and its stunning mosque, before continuing to perfectly preserved Khiva. Fly back from Urgench.

¨ Two weeks In two weeks you can do the five major places of interest in Uzbekistan at an unhurried pace. Fly west to Nukus and spend a half-day appreciating Central Asia’s greatest art collection before heading to Khiva via the ancient ruined fortresses of Elliq-Qala. Spend a few days in both Bukhara and Samarkand before ending up in Tashkent for some museum hopping, good food and a night or two on the town.

¨One month All of the above sights can be seen in a month at a more relaxed pace. You can also visit both Termiz and the Fergana Valley and devote more time to exploring Uzbekistan’s natural wonders, including hiking in the Chimgan region and homestay tourism in the Nuratau Mountains.

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A Warm WelcomeWhether you want to explore the archi-tectural gems of Bukhara or take a horse trek across the high Pamirs, everywhere in Central Asia you’ll be greeted with instinctive local hospitality and offered a shared meal, a helping hand or a place to stay. Beyond Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities, mass tourism has yet to make any inroads in Central Asia, lending an authentic sense of discovery to each trip. Add to this the intrinsic fascination of a forgotten region slowly emerging as a geopolitical pivot point and you have one of Asia’s most ab-sorbing hidden corners.

Footprints of HistoryFrom Alexander the Great to Chinggis (Genghis) Khan to Timur (Tamerlane), Central Asia’s page-turning history lit-ters the land at every turn. From the right angle and with one eye closed, the storied oasis caravan stops of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their exotic skylines of min-arets and medressas, really do seem to be lifted directly from the age of Marco Polo. Share a round of kebabs with an Uzbek trader or wander an ancient caravanserai and historical romantics will find the past and present begin to blur into one in Cen-tral Asia.

Mountains & YurtsEast of the desert and steppe settlements rise the snow-capped Pamir and Tian Shan ranges of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, home to traditional herding communities and some truly epic mountain scenery. Here community-based tourism projects can bring you face to face with nomadic Kyr-gyz herders, meeting them in their yurts and on their terms. Ride out to remote lakes on horseback, hike from one village homestay to another, or take a 4WD out to remote archaeological sites. The scope for adventure and exploration here is almost limitless.

Travel off the MapFor decades – centuries even – much of the world has regarded Central Asia as a blank on the map, synonymous with the middle of nowhere, rather than the heartland of Asia. For a certain type of wanderer, this is all part of the attraction of a land that has been largely off-limits to travellers for the last 2000 years. Head even a little bit off the beaten track and you’ll likely have the place to yourself. The region’s little-visited oddities, namely Turkmenistan and most of Kazakhstan, are even further removed from the modern world and offer an addic-tive interest all of their own.

Welcome to Central Asia

With its medieval blue-domed cities, kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays,

Central Asia encapsulates the romance of the Silk Road like nowhere else.

4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Above: Uzbek children, Bukhara (p247)

Why I love Central AsiaBy Bradley Mayhew, Writer

Each republic in Central Asia has its own attraction for me. In Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan I love the unrivalled mountain scenery and the incredible tradition of hospitality among the local Wakhi and Kyrgyz. In Uzbekistan it’s the glorious weight of history and the sense of travelling in the sand-prints of some of history’s greatest travellers and invaders. There’s also something unique and even slightly weird about Central Asia, as if the normal rules of tourist engagement don’t quite apply. For me it’s a completely addictive place; I freely admit to being a Stan-oholic.

For more about our writers, see p512

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Best Places to Eat ¨Olivia (p318)

¨ Line Brew (p300)

¨ Tandoor (p299)

¨My Cafe (p300)

¨ Izumi Tai (p342)

¨Gosti (p299)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Rixos Khadisha Shymkent (p317)

¨Wild Nature (p321)

¨Orbita Boutique Hotel (p317)

¨ Rixos Almaty (p298)

¨ Zhanara’s Homestay (p311)

¨Hostel Astana (p339)

When to Go

Apr–Jun Natu-ralists’ heaven as the steppe and hills blossom and migrating birds flock in.

May–Sep The weather is per-fect; from July it’s hiking season.

Nov–Apr It’s cold, but skiers enjoy Central Asia’s best facilities at Chimbulak.

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KazakhstanWhy Go?The world’s ninth-biggest country is the most economically advanced of the ’stans’, thanks to its abundant reserves of oil and most other valuable minerals. This means generally better standards of accommodation, restaurants and trans-port than elsewhere in Central Asia. The biggest city, Al-maty, is almost reminiscent of Europe with its leafy avenues, chic ALZhiR Museum-Memorial Complex, glossy shopping centres and hedonistic nightlife. The capital Astana, on the windswept northern steppe, has been transformed into a 21st-century showpiece with a profusion of bold futuris-tic architecture. But it’s beyond the cities that you’ll find the greatest travel adventures, whether hiking in the high mountains and green valleys of the Tian Shan, searching for wildlife on the lake-dotted steppe, enjoying homespun hos-pitality in village guesthouses, or jolting across the western deserts to remote underground mosques.

Includes ¨Almaty ....................... 292Central Tian Shan .......313Turkestan .................. 322Aral ............................ 325Astana ........................ 333Altay Mountains ........ 353Semey ....................... 354Understand Kazakhstan ................ 358Survival Guide ............364

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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TOP TIP ¨Make the effort to get

beyond Kazakhstan’s cities to the beautiful mountain, steppe or desert country, and the hospitality of rural homestays and guesthouses. Side trips to Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve or Sayram-Ugam National Park are easy.

Fast Facts ¨Area 2.7 million sq km

¨Capital Astana

¨Currency Tenge (T)

¨ Languages Kazakh, Russian

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 255T

Canada C$1 257T

China ¥10 510T

Euro zone €1 400T

Japan ¥100 304T

NZ NZ$1 237T

Russia R10 56T

UK UK£1 450T

USA US$1 324T

Resources ¨ Edge (www.edgekz.com) ¨Visit Kazakhstan (www.

visitkazakhan.kz) ¨ Lonely Planet (www.

lonelyplanet.com/kazakhstan)

Visas & PermitsCitizens of 45 countries, including EU states, Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Korea, Switzerland, the USA and some other countries can travel to Kazakhstan without a visa for up to 30 days; as always in this region it is best to check that this arrangement con-tinues. For most other visas you must obtain a letter of invi-tation (LOI) before applying, available through most travel agencies in Kazakhstan and Central Asia travel specialists in other countries.

Registration is required if you are staying in Kazakhstan more than five days – only if you enter by land or sea and your entry form is stamped once rather than twice. If it’s stamped twice, you don’t need to register. It is not necessary to register if you enter by air.

COSTS

Relative CostSlightly more expensive than Uzbekistan, but cheaper than Turkmenistan.

Daily Expenses ¨Hostel dorm (Almaty or Astana): 2800–3500T

¨Comfortable hotel double:12,000–20,000T

¨ Stolovaya (canteen) meal 1000T, restaurant dinner: 5000–7000T

¨ Admission to museums: 500–1000TTrain: Almaty to Astana: platskartny (hard-sleeper)/kupeyny (soft-sleeper) 4443/9774T, high speed 13,567T

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bathroom, including break-fast): $ <8200T, $$ 8200–22,800T, $$$ >28,000T

Eating (main course): $ <1500T, $$ 1500–3000T, $$$ >3000T

Itineraries ¨One week Explore Almaty and take four or five days to

explore Kolsai Lakes , the Charyn Canyon and the Altyn-Emel National Park.

¨ Two weeks Extend the weeklong itinerary with time in southern Kazakhstan: Shymkent, lovely Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve, the splendour of Turkestan and the spectacular arid scenery and eerie Soviet boat wrecks on the bank of the Aral Sea.

¨One month You can get round the whole country, visiting remote destinations such as the ancient underground mosques of Mangistauin, the pristine Altay Mountains and the glitz of 21st-century architecture in Astana, the capital.

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%996 / POP 5.76 MILLION

Best Places to Eat ¨Chaikana Navat (p64)

¨ Pur-Pur (p64)

¨ Shashlyk No. 1 (p64)

¨ Supara Ethno-Complex (p64)

¨ Tsarskii Dvor (p119)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Southside B&B (p62)

¨ Supara Chunkurchak (p75)

¨ Kara-Kyz Yurt-Camp (p95)

¨ Sary-Oi Yurt-Camp (p122)

¨BUGU Hotel (p60)

¨Bel-Tam Yurt-Camp (p98)

When to Go

May–Jun Flowers bloom and tourist numbers are low; higher mountains may be snow-bound.

Jul–Sep Ideal for treks; many festivals; accom-modation heavily booked; cities stiflingly hot.

Dec–Mar Rural accommodation closed; trekking areas inaccessible; great for skiing and winter sports.

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KyrgyzstanWhy Go?Officially the Kyrgyz Republic (Кыргызская Республика), Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан) is a nation defined by its natu-ral beauty. Joyously unspoilt mountainscapes, stark craggy ridges and rolling jailoos (summer pastures) are brought to life by seminomadic, yurt-dwelling shepherds. Add to this a well-developed network of homestays and visa-free travel, and it’s easy to see why Kyrgyzstan is the gateway of choice for many travellers in Central Asia.

As can be expected in a country where the vast majori-ty of attractions are rural and high altitude, the timing of your visit is crucial. Summer is ideal with hikes and roads generally accessible. Midsummer also sees Kazakh and Rus-sian tourists converge on the beaches of never-freezing Lake Issyk-Köl. From October to May, much rural accommoda-tion closes down and the yurts that add such character to the Alpine vistas are stashed away – think twice about a win-ter visit unless you’ve come to ski or snowboard.

Includes ¨Bishkek . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Karakol . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Son-Köl . . . . . . . . . . 102Naryn . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Tash Rabat . . . . . . . . . .109Jalal-Abad . . . . . . . . .111Arslanbob . . . . . . . . . 112Osh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Uzgen . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Understand Kyrgyzstan . . . . . . . . . .126Survival Guide. . . . . . . 132

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan

TOP TIP ¨ The real draw

is exploring the countryside, and our suggestions are just initial pointers. The best way to explore is to simply head out into jailoos and hills and find your own way. But remember that everything is seasonal.

Fast Facts ¨Area 199,990 sq km

¨Capital Bishkek

¨Currency som

¨ Languages Kyrgyz, Russian

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 54.18som

Canada C$1 54.06som

China ¥1 10.90som

Euro zone

€1 84.74som

Japan ¥100 63.44som

NZ NZ$1 50.13som

Russia R10 11.90som

UK UK£1 95.40som

USA US$1 68.85som

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨CBT (www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg) ¨GoKG (http://gokg.asia) ¨ Tenti (http://tenti.kg) ¨ Trip to Kyrgyzstan

(https://triptokyrgyzstan.com/en/map)

Visas & PermitsAt least 60 nationalities can visit Kyrgyzstan without visas, including citizens of Korea, Japan, most major Western countries and former Soviet countries. Many visitors who do need a visa can arrange for one online (www.evisa.e-gov.kg).

COSTS

Relative CostMarginally the cheapest state in Central Asia.

Daily Expenses ¨Hostel dorm (Bishkek) or rural homestay:

400–700som

¨Midrange hotel: US$30–50

¨ Street snack: 40–60som

¨ Self-service cafeteria meal: 60–150som

¨Good restaurant meal in Bishkek: 400–1200som

¨ Full day horse riding with guide: 1800–3000som

¨ Long-distance share-taxi seat: 300–1000som

¨ Long-distance car with driver per day: 3000som

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bath): $ >1750som, $$ 1750–4800som, $$$ >4800som

Eating (main course): $ <250som, $$ 250–700som, $$$ >700som

Itineraries ¨One Week Head for Lake Issyk-Köl, where Karakol makes

an ideal base for exploring the diversity of Kyrgyzstan’s culture and heading out for a few days’ skiing or hiking in the mountains (depending on the season).

¨ Two Weeks Visit Issyk-Köl and Son-Köl, then head through the mountains via the Kazarman route or back to Bishkek on public transport. Either way, your destination is the Fergana Valley via Osh, stopping in pretty Arslanbob en route or continuing south all the way to the spectacular Alay mountains.

¨One Month With more time you can add a two-week pre-arranged horse trek, mountaineering or trekking expedition to the two-week itinerary, or plan trips to remote corners of the country like Köl-Suu lake or Inilchek glacier.

55

Best Places to Eat ¨Chaykhona Rokhat (p151)

¨Davlatkhon Homestay (p183)

¨Dilovar’s Villa (p163)

¨Delhi Darbar (p178)

¨Darvaz Sangakov Bahrom (p174)

¨ Sayokhat (p161)

Best Places to Stay

¨Marian’s Guesthouse (p147)

¨ Serena Hotel (p150)

¨ Karon Palace (p174)

¨Guesthouse Shahboz (p163)

¨ Lal Hotel (p178)

¨ Erali Guesthouse (p184)

%992 / POP 8.7 MILLION

When to Go

Mid-Jun–Sep The cities sizzle, but this is the only vi-able time for High Pamir treks.

Apr–May Mild in the lowlands; heavy showers cause landslides blocking mountain roads.

Nov–Feb Tem-peratures in the Pamirs drop to between -20°C and -45°C (-4°F to -49°F).

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TajikistanWhy Go?The term ‘predominantly mountainous’ doesn’t do justice to a country where over 90% of the land is upland. This fact of nature has given Tajikistan a precious advantage over its neighbours, namely some of the most inspiring, high- altitude landscape in the world. Within an hour of Dushan-be lie multi-hued lakes, peaks that beg to be climbed and high passes that thrill even reluctant travellers. In among this natural splendour are scattered villages and towns that survive cheek-by-jowl through each extreme season. It hasn’t been easy for these traditional communities to adapt to the changing world beyond their mountain strong-holds, but despite this they are unfailingly welcoming of outsiders and cheerfully excuse cultural faux-pas as part and parcel of their proud democracy. For visitors tolerant of a few travelling hardships (outdoor loos, cold water, potholed roads), the country more than compensates with a rare glimpse into life lived on ‘The Roof of the World’.

Includes ¨Dushanbe ..................143Fergana Valley .............154Khojand ......................155Fan Mountains ............162The Pamirs ..................167Khorog ........................176Understand Tajikistan .................... 186Survival Guide .............192

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

TajikisTan

TajikisTan

TajikisTan

TOP TIP ¨Hire a 4WD. With

public transport minimal to non-existent in much of the country, a car and driver transforms a visit to Tajikistan, especially in the Pamirs.

Fast Facts ¨Area 143,100 sq km

¨Capital Dushanbe

¨Currency US dollar, Tajik somoni (TJS)

¨ Languages Tajik, Russian, Uzbek, Sogdian, several Pamiri languages, Kyrgyz

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 6.93TJS

Canada C$1 7.13TJS

China ¥10 13.90TJS

Euro zone

€1 10.84TJS

Japan ¥100 8.11TJS

NZ NZ$1 6.40TJS

Russia R100 15.11TJS

UK UK£1 12.20TJS

USA US$1 8.82TJS

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨Asia Plus (www.asiaplus.

tj/en) ¨Pamirs (www.pamirs.org) ¨PECTA (www.visitpamirs.

com) ¨ Tajik Tourism (http://

tajiktourism.com) ¨ Trekking in the Pamirs

(www.trekkinginthepamirs.com)

Visas & PermitsFor most nationalities e-visas (US$50) are available online at www.evisas.tj. These e-visas are valid for 45 days and in-clude the permit for GBAO (eastern Tajikistan).

COSTS

Relative CostMore expensive than Kyrgyzstan, but cheaper than Uz-bekistan (unless you’re renting a 4WD).

Daily Expenses ¨ Floor space in homestay: US$10

¨Double room with bathroom: US$50–100

¨ Self-catering: US$5

¨ Three meals in homestays: US$15

¨Overnight guided trek: US$100–150

¨ Seat in shared taxi: US$45

¨Charter of small 4WD with driver: US$80

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast): $ <US$40, $$ US$40–150, $$$ >US$150

Eating (main course): $ <US$5, $$ US$5–30, $$$ >US$30

Itineraries ¨One week After two nights in Dushanbe travel north

to Khojand. On the outward journey spend two nights at Iskander-Kul and Sarytag to allow a day’s trekking in the Fan Mountains. Overnight in Khojand and spend the morning enjoying the citadel and bazaar and either return to the capital or travel on to the Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan borders.

¨ Two weeks Allow five days to travel from Dushanbe to Osh along the Pamir Hwy. Break the journey in the friendly towns of Kalai-Kum and Khorog and allow a day to absorb the windswept isolation of Murgab. In 10 days, add in the sourthern route between Khorog and Murgab, through the timeless Wakhan Valley with its ancient shrines and traditional culture.

¨ Three weeks Combine the one- and two-week itineraries (with the relevant multiple entry visa) to make a circuit through Tajikistan either starting in Dushanbe or in Osh. Travelling anticlockwise has a slight edge on the journey in reverse.

142

Best Places to Eat ¨Coffee House (p384)

¨Hotel Ýyldyz Panoramic Restaurant (p384)

¨ Șa Kofe (p384)

Best Places to Shop

¨ Altyn Asyr Marketing Centre (p385)

¨ Altyn Göl (p385)

¨ Tolkuchka Bazaar (p385)

¨Berkarar (p385)

%993 / POP 5.3 MILLION

When to Go

Apr–Jun Bright sunshine and cool temperatures combine to create the best climate for travel.

Sep–Nov The fierce summer heat gradually cools and the win-ter approaches.

Dec Wrap up warmly; expect to see snow in the desert and very few other travellers!

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

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TurkmenistanWhy Go?By far the most mysterious and unexplored of Central Asia’s ‘stans, Turkmenistan became famous for the truly bizarre dictatorship of Saparmyrat Niyazov, who ruled as ‘Turk-menbashi’ (‘leader of the Turkmen’) until his death in 2006. Niyazov covered this little-known desert republic with gran-diose monuments and golden statues of himself. Although many of these statues have since been dismantled, plenty of visitors still think of Turkmenistan as a sort of totalitarian theme park. But the least-visited of Central Asia’s countries is far more than this – it’s an ancient land of great spiritual-ity, tradition and natural beauty.

The ancient cities of Merv and Konye-Urgench inspire visions of caravans plodding along the ancient Silk Road, while the haunting beauty of the Karakum desert and oth-er quirky natural phenomena are equally mesmerising. The full Turkmen experience is ultimately about mingling with the warm and fascinating people themselves, whose hospi-tality is the stuff of legend.

Includes ¨Ashgabat .................... 377Mary ........................... 387Merv ...........................388Turkmenabat ..............391Karakum Desert ......... 392Dashoguz ................... 392Konye-Urgench .......... 393Turkmenbashi ............ 395Understand Turkmenistan .............396Survival Guide ............399

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Turkmen

isTan Turkm

enisTan

Turkmen

isTan

TOP TIPS ¨ Spending time in

Ashgabat means you don’t have to be with a guide, and is a good way to cut costs, although you do still need to be on an organised trip.

¨ The other way to avoid travelling with a guide is to get a transit visa, although they tend to only be valid for three to five days, depending on your route across the country.

Fast Facts ¨Area 488,100 sq km

¨Capital Ashgabat

¨Currency manat (M)

¨ Languages Turkmen, Russian, Uzbek

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 2.80M

Canada C$1 2.73M

China ¥10 5.53M

Euro zone €1 4.34M

Japan ¥100 3.27M

NZ NZ$1 2.54M

Russia R100 6.09M

UK £1 4.88M

USA US$1 3.50M

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨ Lonely Planet

(www.lonelyplanet.com/turkmenistan)

¨Caravanistan (http://caravanistan.com)

¨Gundogar (www.gundogar.org)

¨News & Information (www.turkmenistan.gov.tm)

Visas & PermitsEveryone requires a visa for Turkmenistan, and unless you’re on a transit visa, you need to be accompanied by a guide throughout your stay.

COSTS

Relative CostThe most expensive country in Central Asia.

Daily Expenses ¨Basic hotel room: US$60

¨Midrange hotel room: US$120

¨ Kebab lunch: US$5

¨ Pizza and a beer: US$8

¨Dinner at hotel: US$30

¨Museum entry: US$10

¨Bus ride in Ashgabat: US$0.10

¨ Taxi ride within Ashgabat: US$3

¨Domestic flight: US$100

Price RangesSleeping (for two people): $ <US$50, $$ US$50–100, $$$ >US$100

Eating (main course): $ <20M, $$ 20–50M, $$$ >50M

Itineraries ¨One Week Spend at least three days in and around

Ashgabat before heading east to visit the ancient sites of Merv and Gonur Depe. From here, return to Ashgabat and travel north to Konye-Urgench, camping en route at the unforgettable Darvaza Gas Craters.

¨ Two Weeks Along with the sights mentioned above, take the time for some activities, such as horseback riding in Geok-Dere or a visit to the Köw Ata Underground Lake and make a trip to the Yangykala Canyon and Turkmenbashi.

¨ Three Weeks Arriving on a transit visa, spend a day in fascinatingly weird Ashgabat, cross the Karakum desert and spend the night camping by the Darvaza Gas Craters and then wrap things up with a visit to historic Konye-Urgench.

376

CENTRAL ASIA TODAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406Rebuilding national identities, regional rivalries and a shared post-Soviet past dominate modern Central Asia today.

HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408Continent-spanning empires, Silk Road cultural exchanges and imperial intrigue: Central Asia’s history is as colourful as it gets.

THE SILK ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428Great civilisations connected by a web of trading routes, the Silk Road marks Central Asia’s cultural zenith.

PEOPLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Nomads and warriors, Turkic and Persian, European and Asian: Eurasia’s cultural mix is endlessly fascinating.

ISLAM IN CENTRAL ASIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439Islam rules here, but the softer Sufi brand dominates after 70 years of Soviet atheism.

THE ARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443From Zoroastrian-inspired embroidery to the handpicked bards of Manas, art embodies the history and cultural of Central Asia.

ARCHITECTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447Central Asia’s most impressive artistic heritage, the region’s architecture features some of the world’s most beautiful Islamic buildings.

ENVIRONMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451Disappearing seas, desertification and nuclear fallout make for few feel-good stories here.

Understand Central Asia

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

A New OrientationIt’s not all political dictatorship and economic hard-ship. After the confusion and social turmoil of the 1990s life has settled for many Central Asians. Econ-omies are growing and standards of living are rising. Grassroots community tourism projects are flourish-ing in much of the region. International crossings have been retied with China, Afghanistan and Iran, opening up new opportunities for trade and tourism, and are fast reconnecting the region to the rest of the world.

All this reflects the redrawing of Central Asia. Where once Tashkent and Ashgabat looked north to distant Moscow for economic and political direction, modern Central Asians now turn also to China, Turkey, Iran, Europe and the US, all of whom are equally intent on redefining spheres of influence long blocked by the Iron Curtain. The US-led ‘War on Terror’ simply raised the stakes in a preexisting geopolitical game that envel-ops everything from transcontinental gas pipelines to US and Russian military bases in the region.

The death of Uzbekistan President Karimov in 2016 has ushered in some positive economic and political changes in Uzbekistan, from currency and visa reform to new regional transport connections. The region’s main political question mark is whether the new Uz-bek regime will continue these modest liberalisations and improve regional ties with neighbouring Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, as well as international relations with the outside world.

Differing PathsIn addressing their shared postindependence challeng-es the Central Asian governments are forging quite different paths. Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan are the only republics that seem to have bright economic prospects – sitting pretty on enormous reserves of oil

Central Asia Today

Best in PrintThe Lost Heart of Asia (Colin Thubron; 1994) Our favourite travel writer captures the region in beautiful prose. Also try his more recent Shadow of the Silk Road (2007).The Great Game (Peter Hopkirk; 1990) Fast-paced and immensely readable account of 19th-century Victorian derring-do.The Land that Disappeared (Chris-topher Robbins; 2008) Excellent contemporary account of Kazakhstan.The Silk Road: A Travel Companion (Jonathan Tucker; 2015) A mixture of history, culture and architecture, focusing on Central Asia, Afghanistan and Iran.

Best on FilmThe Desert of Forbidden Art (2010) Excellent documentary about Igor Savitsky and the 40,000 items of Soviet art he secretly collected in Karakalpakstan.Orlando (1992) Sally Potter’s film of the Virginia Woolf novel has some spectacular scenes filmed in Khiva.Borat (2006) Kazakhstan’s most famous fake citizen is ridiculous, but he’s also hilarious and the satire is biting at times.Tulpan (2008) Kazakh drama about life on the steppe, as the main character tries to woo his prospective wife Tulpan.

For the people of ex-Soviet Central Asia it’s been a turbulent quarter-century since inde-pendence in 1991. Each of the republics have grappled with economic collapse, population shifts and resurgent Islam. All are reinventing their past, rehabilitating historical heroes and reinforcing their national languages in an attempt to redefine and shore up what it means to be Central Asian. Despite years of political repression and faltering economies, life is improving slowly, if unevenly, across the region.

406 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Best Places to Eat ¨ Afsona (p211)

¨National Food (p210)

¨ Platan (p237)

¨Minzifa (p257)

¨ Terasse Cafe (p268)

Best Places to Stay

¨ Jahongir B&B (p235)

¨ Amelia Boutique Hotel (p255)

¨ Emir B&B (p256)

¨ Antica (p236)

¨Meros B&B (p268)

%998 / POP 32.1 MILLION

When to Go

Apr–Jun Clear skies, sunshine and cool air combine to create perfect travel conditions.

July & Aug The extreme heat of the summer means bargains can be had at many hotels.

Sep & Oct Days remain warm despite the summer having passed and it’s yet to get cold.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

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UzbekistanWhy Go?The region’s cradle of culture for more than two millennia, Uzbekistan is the proud home to a spellbinding arsenal of architecture and ancient cities, all deeply infused with the bloody, fascinating history of the Silk Road. In terms of sights alone, Uzbekistan is Central Asia’s biggest draw and most impressive showstopper.

Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva never fail to impress vis-itors with their fabulous mosques, medressas and mauso-leums, while its more eccentric attractions, such as the fast disappearing Aral Sea, the fortresses of desperately remote Karakalpakstan, its boom town capital Tashkent and the ecotourism opportunities of the Nuratau Mountains, mean that even the most diverse tastes can be catered for.

Despite being a harshly governed police state, Uzbekistan remains an extremely friendly country where hospitality re-mains an essential element of daily life and you’ll be made to feel genuinely welcome by the people you meet.

Includes ¨Tashkent ..................... 199Kokand ........................219Fergana ...................... 223Andijon ....................... 226Samarkand ................ 228Shakhrisabz ...............240Bukhara ...................... 247Urgench......................260Khiva .......................... 262Moynaq ...................... 272Understand Uzbekistan ................. 274Survival Guide ............ 279

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Uzbekistan Uzbekistan Uzbekistan

TOP TIP ¨Uzbekistan

has charming accommodation (especially B&Bs), but book well in advance during high season, especially in Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand, where all the best places will normally be full. Lesser options are unfortunately a big step down in comfort and atmosphere. Home- and yurtstays are possible.

Fast Facts ¨Area 447,400 sq km

¨Capital Tashkent

¨Currency som (S)

¨ Languages Uzbek, Russian, Tajik, Karakalpak

Exchange RatesAustralia A$1 6400S

Canada C$1 6500S

China ¥10 12,940S

Euro zone €1 10,100S

Japan ¥100 7600S

NZ NZ$1 5800S

Russia R100 14,300S

UK £1 11,400S

USA US$1 8200S

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Resources ¨Advantour (www.

advantour.com) ¨Karakalpakstan (www.

karakalpak.com) ¨Orexca (www.orexca.com) ¨ Lonely Planet (www.

lonelyplanet.com/uzbekistan)

Visas & PermitsUzbek visas are needed by almost all nationalities. They are relatively painless to obtain, and most nationalities no longer require a letter of invitation.

COSTS

Relative CostCheaper than Kazakhstan, but more expensive than Tajikistan.

Daily ExpensesBudget: Less than US$40

¨Hostel dorm: US$10–12

¨Bukhara B&B double: US$45–70

¨ Shashlyk: US$1

¨Good restaurant meal: US$4

¨ Shared taxi Bukhara to Khiva: US$10 per person

¨ Tashkent fast train to Samarkand: economy class US$8

¨ Flight from Tashkent to Urgench: US$102

Price RangesSleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast) $ <US$30, $$ US$30–70, $$$ >US$70

Eating (main course) $ <10,00S, $$ 10,000–20,000S, $$$ >20,000S

Itineraries ¨One Week In one week you can cover ‘the big three’ in a

trans-steppe dash. Start in impressive Samarkand to explore the pearls of Timurid-era architecture, zip to enchanting Bukhara to see the Lyabi-Hauz, tour the Ark and gape at the 47m Kalon Minaret and its stunning mosque, before continuing to perfectly preserved Khiva. Fly back from Urgench.

¨ Two weeks In two weeks you can do the five major places of interest in Uzbekistan at an unhurried pace. Fly west to Nukus and spend a half-day appreciating Central Asia’s greatest art collection before heading to Khiva via the ancient ruined fortresses of Elliq-Qala. Spend a few days in both Bukhara and Samarkand before ending up in Tashkent for some museum hopping, good food and a night or two on the town.

¨One month All of the above sights can be seen in a month at a more relaxed pace. You can also visit both Termiz and the Fergana Valley and devote more time to exploring Uzbekistan’s natural wonders, including hiking in the Chimgan region and homestay tourism in the Nuratau Mountains.

198

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adil Khan, Alan Taylor, Alfonso Morales, Ayal Weiner- Kaplow, Barney Smith, Benjamin Bullock, Bertold Kemptner, Cale Lawlor, Calum MacKellar, Carol Hahn, Carolyn Willadsen, Charles Adams & Jane Hennessy, Christine Jacobson, Elin Monstad, Emily Kydd, Eveline Verbist, Fabrizio Soggetto, Ferdinand Fellinger, Ike Uri, Isaac Mak, Jane Mcnab, Joel Meadows, Judit Hegedus & David Szente, Julie Clarkson, Justyna Ferstl, Lauren Wolfe, Lucy Buckland, Maarten van Gerwen, Perry van Dijck & Anouk Bertram, Marco Svoboda, Mary Rose Burns & Lowell Woodin, Mary Rose-Miller, Maurits Stuyt, Mizio Matteucci, Momo Nedderwedder, Nathan Jeffers, Nicholas Saraiba, Nick Freeland, Olivier Genkin, Peter Kmet, Pravit Chintawongvanich, Ralph Luken, Raphael Favier, Rasmus Aberg & Sarah Benke, Renata Jozic, Robin Roth, Roel Peters, Roelof Kotvis, Ron Perrier, Rouven Strauss, Ruben Mooijman, Stuart Haggett, Suzanne Jacob & David Lloyd, Sylvia Kupers, Tacita Vero, Will Goddard

WRITERS’ THANKSStephen LioyI owe many massive debts of gratitude on this one. To those I continue to explore KG with – Солнишка, Jason, Kent, maybe even Jonny Duncan. To all the people I’ve travelled with over many years here, not least Makiko. To Aigul, though she’s ever thankless! To all the BGI and DMO staff that put up with constant demands for more, especially Gulmira and Aizhan, Rakhat and Aman, Nargiza/Nasiba/Atabek/Meerim/Muslima, Gulira and Asel, and Kyle – the cracker of the whip.

Anna KaminskiI’d like to thank Megan for entrusting me with Kazakhstan, John, Bradley and Mark for the advice and support, Saule and Steven for the info and the company in Almaty/nuclear waste-land, David for the info, Leonie, John and Dinara in Turkestan, Svetlana in Aksu-Zhabagly NP, Pavel for expert guiding around Almaty, Ramil, Roma and Yura – my Mangistau fixer and drivers, Serik in Aral, and all the provodniks who made ventilation in platzkart possible.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Bradley MayhewThanks to Rafael and Oybek at Topchan, Pav-el at Art Hostel, Rovshan at Gulnara’s, Murod and Sevara at Advantour, David at Stan-tours, Sherzod Norbekov, Mariko Shishido in Samarkand, Odil and Zafar at Jahongir B&B, Jama at the Amelia, Mila Ahmedova in Bukhara and thanks to co-writers Anna, Jenny, Stephen and the Turkmenistan writer for their input.

Jenny WalkerTajikistan, the so-called roof of the world, puts no such lid on the hospitality shown to visitors. A general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in this country update. Specific thanks to Dylan Harris of Lupine Travel for facilitating transport, to ‘captain’ Alishour Afreddun for his insightful guiding and to ‘romeo’ for the

safe delivery along the legendary Pamir Hwy. Biggest thanks to beloved ‘general’ Sam (Owen), husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller.

Turkmenistan WriterI cannot express enough my huge thanks for those that helped with this update – you know who you are!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Tilla-Kari Medressa, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, eFesenko/Shutterstock ©

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Central Asia guide-book was researched and written by Stephen Lioy, Anna Kaminski, Bradley Mayhew, Jenny Walker, and a writer who has chosen to remain anon-ymous. The previous edition was also written by Bradley, along with Mark Elliott, Tom Masters and John Noble, and the 5th edition by Bradley, John, Greg Bloom, Paul

Clammer and Michael Kohn. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Megan EavesProduct Editor Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographers David Kemp, Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Katherine MarshSenior Product Editor Kate Chapman

Assisting Editors Katie Connolly, Pete Cruttenden, Samantha Forge, Gabby Innes, Kate Kiely, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Charlotte Orr, Monique PerrinCartographers Mark Griffiths, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Kate James, Luca & Aijan Lässer, Anne Mason, Lyahna Spencer, Kira Tverskaya