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ZERMATT

GETHIGH

010 // TM15 // INTHESNOW.COM @INTHESNOWMAGWORDS: PATRICK THORNE TM15 // 011

Ski resorts come in all shapes and sizes,

and there are several contenders for

“world’s best resort” – depending on

what criteria you use or who’s voting –

but one seems to have captured skiers’

imaginations more than any other:

Zermatt.

Why? The famous Swiss resort does

have a great ski area, extending to over

350km with runs down across the border

into Italy. It also has Europe’s highest

ski runs, its top lift touching 3900m,

meaning that in quite severe periods of

limited snowfall in the Alps it tends to

when areas of quite high elevation are

struggling. It also means the lift-served

vertical is one of the world’s biggest, and

even the bottom of those 2200 vertical

metres is at an altitude higher than the

top lifts at some low-lying areas. Plus,

thanks to its glacier, it’s one of only two

resorts in the world that tries to open

for snow sports 365 days a year, so it

should be open today. And it is chock-full

of comfortable accommodation, in an

atmospheric car-free village, rich in skiing

and climbing heritage and with a vibrant

nightlife to boot.

All this definitely places Zermatt as a

serious contender for that “best in the

world” title, and it is the most highly

rated ski area in the world if you count

TripAdvisor reviews, up there with some of

the world’s best capital cities for popularity.

But in case the picture is just too rosy,

there is a downside to being very good,

very popular and in Switzerland: high

prices. While holidays to Eurozone ski

areas are cheaper for 2015–16, a 6-day

adult pass for Zermatt and Cervinia is

coming in at CHF435, or £295 as we

went to press, the most expensive in

Europe. There is a flipside for parents –

children are completely free until age 9,

then pay half price to age 16, among the

most generous child pricing in Europe.

Costs in resort aren’t cheap either,

although there is a Co-op.

So what is it that pops Zermatt over the

finish line, to claim that “best in the world”

title? The Matterhorn. Quite simply this

mountain is truly awesome and leaves all

other peaks in its shade (literally in a few

cases). When you’re in Zermatt it is simply

”there”, always, dominating the skyline –

somehow even managing to do so when

it is obscured by cloud.

Your eyes are constantly drawn to it, to

see how the light is playing on it, from

the first time you look out of the window

in the morning, to sunset in the evening.

I first skied in Zermatt in the summer

of 1982 when I was still at school, on

a budget Interrail trip. A friend and I

camped on the edge of the resort and

hit the slopes in T-shirt and jeans at 7am

on a July morning, quickly realising how

cold it was despite the sunshine, as the

overnight freeze still had a hold. We

dived into the mountain restaurant to

corduroy once again and repeated the

process. By 10am the snow had softened

enough for perfect conditions … which

lasted about 90 minutes before the

surface had melted too much and the

snow was a sticky stodge.

I’ve been lucky enough to go back

half a dozen times over the past three

decades, most recently earlier this very

summer. The resort has grown a lot over

the years, and new plush chalets and

apartments had appeared since I was

last in town three years before that, but

as usual, these were all dwarfed, made

to feel insignificant somehow, by that

eternal mountain presence towering

above. No other ski resort can really

compete with that, although some –

Niseko, Lake Louise and Murren for

example – do come close.

Zermatt is just completing a summer of

celebrations of the 150th anniversary of

the first conquering of the Matterhorn,

by Brit Edward Whymper. The mountain

date in July, partly in recognition of his

achievement but also in memory of

those who died on the descent from the

original successful conquering of the

peak, and the hundreds who have died

on the mountain in the 150 years since.

So if you’ve not made it to Zermatt yet,

what should you expect? Well, the first

thing to know is that you’re almost certain

to arrive by rail. THE way to arrive is

by train from Geneva Airport, with one

change and you’re up on resort, but some

package tour operators run a coach to the

neighbouring village of Tasch from where

a very plush shuttle train trundles you the

5 minutes on to Zermatt from a Eurostar-

sized terminal (well, not quite, but it seems

big for a small village).

Zermatt has grown into a big resort

and, attracting more than two million

visitors annually, it’s busy year round.

Electric taxis (built in the resort) and a

ski bus buzz around the streets, and

there are also horse-drawn sleighs, so

peaceful does not really sum it up, but

place where vehicles powered by the

internal combustion engine are allowed

on the roads.

There are multiple access lifts from the

valley to the slopes including cable cars,

gondola and funicular railway, so you can

normally walk from any property to a lift,

but it can be quite a walk if you’re at a

more distant outpost. The ski bus can get

crowded, too, so it’s best to check your

accommodation is truly close to the lift or

organises electric transport to and from

the base station.

Once up on the slopes you’ll know

you are indeed on one of the planet’s

best ski regions, modestly but fairly

accurately named ”Matterhorn Paradise”

by the lift company.

There really are endless runs through

all kinds of terrain for all ability levels

here, and one of my favourites is to get

right to the top of the ski area on the

Klein Matterhorn then ski down towards

Cervinia in Italy on a glorious long

descent of more than 11km and nearly

1800m of vertical.

Known as the Pista Ventina, it’s a very long,

winding, rolling piste that just lasts forever,

with southwest exposure at high elevation,

and it’s one of my all-time favourites.

Stopping for a proper espresso as you

cross the border at the first mountain hut

on the Italian side is just a bonus.

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010 // TM15 // INTHESNOW.COM WORDS: PATRICK THORNE TM15 // 011

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4 REASONSTO BIKE INTHE ALPS

TM15 // 011

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“JUST HAVE TO KEEP PADDLING HARD”

TM15 // 011

L

NOTWITHOUTA PADDLE

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GRIP

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STRENGTH

CLIMBINGTIPS & TRICKS

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venenatis itae nibh. Suspendisse ullamcorper nec augue a lacinia. i turpis, in tincidunt ante

vestibulum eget.

Charlotte van Gils is one of the

world’s best snowboarders and a

Sinner-sponsored athlete. Originally

from the Netherlands, van Gils went

on her first winter sports holiday

when she was 11, unusually opting

to snowboard rather than ski. After

taking a boarding trip and practising

gymnastics through school, van Gils

got air and pulled her first tricks on

indoor slopes and now snowboarding

dominates her life.

Why did you decide to board on your

first holiday?

CVG> It was pretty random. I was

at home, 11-years-old, and my dad

was filling out what ski classes my

sisters and I would do on our annual

trip to Austria. There was a big air

snowboard competition on TV and

seeing people flip and do tricks on

a snowboard made me want to ride,

so I asked my dad to enrol me onto a

snowboard class.

Which are your favourite mountains?

CVG> Breckenridge is home and I

love it because of the perfect jumps,

and there is always something to ride

no matter what the weather is like.

Copper Mountain, also in Colorado,

has good jumps, fun rails, and they

change the jibs weekly so there’s

always something new to ride. Its

back bowls are a lot of fun on the

powder days as well! I was in Perisher,

Australia, last month and it has a

perfect park, jumps and jibs, with a

little T-bar, allowing 100 runs a day!

How did you get involved in

designing your own signature

helmet and goggles?

CVG> I tried out some Sinner products

to find my favourite designs; I’m really

picky about how helmets and goggles

should fit. So I was stoked when I tried

the Galaxy goggles and Titan helmet. I

like the Galaxy goggle because it’s like

looking through a wide-angle lens. You

can see everything without having to turn

your head. The helmet I love because it’s

very light; I don’t notice having it on, and

it has proven to do its job multiple times.

I have broken a couple of helmets by

slamming without having one concussion

in the last 2 years. I love the design,

based on the red rocks of Moab, Utah,

and Denver, Colorado. It’s where my

friends and I cut loose after a fun season.

We camp and party until the sun comes

up. The views are pretty much like the

goggle strap show!

What are your main ambitions for

the coming season?

CVG> I have some tricks in mind that

I really want to learn. I won’t spoil the

surprise, but keep checking the videos

uploaded on my website! I’ve always

wanted to hit a big powder jump, so that

one is on the bucket list for this season.

I don’t like to think in results but I

hope to land some nice runs in the

competitions this season.

Beyond that, I don’t know, sometimes

it’s better not to plan to far ahead but

just enjoy the ride!

charlottevangils.com

sinner.eu

C h a r l o t t e V a n G i l s

NEW SWISS LAW THWARTSBRITISH CHALET OPERATORS!

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