Districts[edit]

Lyon is shaped by its two rivers, the Rhône (to the East) and the Saône (to the West), which both run North-South. The main areas of interest are:

Main districts of interest in Lyon with arrondissement numbers and borders

Fourvière hillAlso known as "the hill that prays" due to the numerous churches and religious institutions it hosts. The hill was also the place where the Romans settled.Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)The Renaissance area, along the right bank of the Saône.Presqu'îleBetween the two rivers, the real heart of the city.Croix-RousseNorth of Presqu'île between the two rivers, it is known as "the hill that works" because it was home to the silk workers (canuts) until the 19th century. This industry has shaped the unique architecture of the area.

ConfluenceAn emerging district with great contemporary architecture in a former industrial area.Part-DieuThe main business district and home to the main train station of Lyon.BrotteauxThe wealthiest district, next to the beautiful Tête d'Or park.GuillotièreA picturesque district with a large immigrant population.

• Line A (red, Perrache - Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie) serves Presqu'île, the neighbourhoods around Parc de la Tête d'Or and then runs under Cours Emile Zola, Villeurbanne's main artery. The last two stops (Laurent Bonnevay and Vaulx La Soie) provide numerous connections with buses to the eastern suburbs. Line A connects with line D at Bellecour, line C at Hôtel de Ville, line B at Charpennes, tram lines T1 and T2 at Perrache and T3 at Vaulx La Soie. It is very busy during rush hours, especially between Bellecour and Hôtel de Ville.

• Line B (blue, Charpennes - Gare d'Oullins) serves most notably Part Dieu station and Gerland stadium. It connects with line A at Charpennes and line D at Saxe-Gambetta.

• Line C (yellow, Hôtel de Ville - Cuire) uses a short cog railway and serves the Croix-Rousse hill. Due to the configuration of the infrastructure, the frequencies are not very good.

• Line D (green, Gare de Vaise - Gare de Vénissieux), the busiest of the four lines, is entirely automated; this allows good frequency in off-peak hours, especially at night and on Sundays. There are many bus connections to the suburbs at Gare de Vaise, Gorge de Loup, Grange Blanche, Parilly and Gare de Vénissieux.

The metro is generally reliable, clean and comfortable. Besides the classical metro, two funiculars run from Vieux Lyon metro station to Saint-Just and Fourvière respectively.

There are also four tram lines (T1 to T4). They are not very interesting if you stay within the city centre; they are most useful to reach campuses and suburban areas.

Vieux Lyon

Old Lyon, a narrow strip along the right bank of the Saône

It is divided into three parts which are named after their respective churches:

• St Paul, north of place du Change, was the commercial area during the Renaissance;

• St Jean, between place du Change and St Jean cathedral, was home to most wealthy families: aristocrats, public officers, etc;

• St Georges, south of St Jean, was a craftsmen's district.

• St Jean Cathedral, place St Jean (M: Vieux Lyon). M-F 8:15AM-noon, 1:45PM-7:30PM, Sa Su 8:15AM-noon, 1:45PM-7PM; services (no visits) M-F 9AM and 7PM, Sa 9AM, Sun 8:30AM and 10:30AM (high mass). Officially, the cathedral is dedicated to both St John the Baptist (St Jean-Baptiste) and St Stephen (St Etienne) and has the title of primatiale because the Bishop of Lyon has the honorary title of Primat des Gaules. Built between 1180 and 1480, it is mostly of Gothic style with Romanesque elements; the oldest parts are the chancel and the lateral chapels, and as one goes towards the facade, the style becomes more and more Gothic. The cathedral hosts a spectacular astronomical clock originally built in the 14th century but modified later. It is especially worth seeing when the bells ring, daily on the hour from noon-4PM. Over the main door, the rose window, known as the "Lamb rose window", is an admirable work of art depicting the life of St Stephen and St John the Baptist. Free, appropriate dress required.  edit

• St Jean archaeological garden, rue de la Bombarde/rue Mandelot/rue des Estrées (M: Vieux Lyon). Next to St Jean cathedral (on the northern side), this small garden shows the remains of the religious buildings which occupied the site before the cathedral was erected. The oldest remains date back to the 4th century (baptistery of the former St Etienne church). Free.  edit

• Traboules, (M: Vieux Lyon). Closed at night. The traboules are a typical architectural feature of Lyon's historical buildings. They are corridors which link two streets through a building, and usually a courtyard. Many traboules are unique architectural masterpieces, largely influenced by Italy and especially Florence.Some of them are officially open to the public. They link the following addresses:- 54 rue St Jean <> 27 rue du Boeuf (the longest in Lyon)- 27 rue St Jean <> 6 rue des Trois Maries- 2 place du Gouvernement <>

quai Romain Rolland.To open the doors, just press the service button next to the door code keyboard. If you are unable to enter from one side, try the opposite entrance. In the morning, many other doors are open for service (mail, garbage collecting), so more traboules are accessible. There are traboules in almost all buildings between Quai Romain Rolland and Rue St Jean/Rue des Trois Maries, and others between Rue St Jean and Rue du Boeuf.

•Renaissance courtyards, (M: Vieux Lyon). Closed at night. Besides the buildings cited above, some have very beautiful courtyards but no real traboules (that is to say, no crossing from one street to another). The most outstanding are: Maison du Chamarier (37 rue St Jean) and Maison du Crible (16 rue du Boeuf), in which stands the famous "Pink Tower". Free.  edit

Rue St Jean, (M: Vieux Lyon). This cobblestone pedestrian street is the main axis of the area. It is full of souvenir shops and restaurants mainly intended for tourists. Local people are aware that real good bouchons are extremely rare here. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, it may be hard to walk because of the crowd of both locals and tourists. You can also check out the more quiet rue des Trois Maries which runs parallel to rue St Jean, between place de la Baleine and rue du Palais de Justice. Edit

• Rue du Boeuf, (M: Vieux Lyon). Parallel to Rue St Jean, this street is much more quiet and just as beautiful. It also has a number of restaurants, more expensive than in rue St Jean but, on average, much more worth the money.  edit

• Place du Change, (B: C3-Gare St Paul). The largest square in the area has two remarkable buildings. The Loge du Change, on the west side, was partially built by the great architect Soufflot. It is now a Protestant church known as Temple du Change. It can be visited on Saturdays. Religious services on Sundays, 10:30AM. Opposite is the Maison Thomassin, with its Gothic-style 14th-century facade. The Thomassins were a powerful merchant family in the Renaissance. Above the 2nd floor windows are the arms of the King of France, of the Dauphin (heir of the Kingdom) and of Duchess Anne of Brittany. Unfortunately, the courtyard is closed to the public.  edit

• Rue Juiverie, \x\d (B: C3-Gare St Paul). Another typical street of Vieux Lyon. It is named after the Jewish community who originally settled there but were expelled in the 14th century. Check out the back courtyard at Hôtel Builloud (number 8); it has a magnificent gallery on the first floor, designed by Philibert Delorme who was

one of the most prominent local architects during the Renaissance.  edit

• St Paul church, rue St Paul (B: C3-Gare St Paul). A very nice church, with mixed Romanesque and Gothic styles. The oldest parts are from the 10th century.  edit

• St Georges neighbourhood, rue St Georges, rue du Doyenné and other smaller streets (M: Vieux Lyon). St Georges is the name given to the south part of the Vieux Lyon. It has nice Renaissance buildings which, however, do not really compare to the palaces of St Jean; on the other hand, it is much more quiet than the St Jean area.  edit

• Montée du Gourguillon, (M: Vieux Lyon/F: Minimes). This picturesque montée (sloping street on hillside) starts behind Vieux Lyon metro station and ends quite close to the Roman theatres of Fourvière. It was the main link between the river Saône and the top of Fourvière throughout the Roman era, Middle Ages and Renaissance. Nowadays it keeps a medieval spirit. Around numbers 5-7 is Impasse Turquet, a small cul-de-sac named after Etienne Turquet, an Italian who is said to have founded the silk industry in Lyon in 1536. In this small passageway are the oldest houses of the city, dating back to the 13th or 14th century, with wooden balconies.  edit

• Palais de Justice, Quai Romain Rolland (M: Vieux Lyon). The historical court house, also named "the 24 columns", was built between 1835 and 1842 by architect Louis-Pierre Baltard. It is a fine example of French "neo-classical" architecture. It now hosts only the criminal court (Cour d'Assises) and the court of appeal. The other jurisdictions moved to a new building in Part-Dieu in 1995. The most famous trial held there was that of the former head of the Lyon Gestapo, Klaus Barbie, in 1987. The building is currently undergoing major refurbishment works.  edit

Fourvière, Saint-Just[edit]

Take the funicular up the hill from Vieux Lyon metro station, or if you are fit, walk up Montée des Chazeaux (starts at the southern end of Rue du Boeuf), Montée St Barthélémy (from St Paul station) or Montée du Gourguillon (from the northern end of Rue St Georges, behind Vieux Lyon metro station). This is a 150 m (500 ft) vertical ascent approximately.

Fourvière was the original location of the Roman Lugdunum. In the 19th century, it became the religious centre of the city, with the basilica and the Archbishop's offices.

• Fourvière basilica, place de Fourvière (F: Fourvière), ☎ +33 4 78 25

86 19, [23]. 10AM-5PM. Masses: Mon-Sat 7:15AM, 9:30AM, 11AM, 5PM, Sun 7:30AM, 9:30, 11AM, 5PM. Built in 1872 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, saint patron of Lyon, this massive church made of white marble has been compared to an elephant with its feet up. It is a typical example of the 19th century "eclectic" style, with architectural elements recalling antique, classical and Gothic eras. The Byzantine-style interior decoration is extremely exuberant, too much so for some people. Free.  edit

• Panoramic viewpoint, place de Fourvière (F: Fourvière). Next to the basilica is the panoramic viewpoint, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear, Mont Blanc can be seen in the distance. This is a very good point to start your visit of the city because you can really see its general layout.  edit

To go down from there, you can take Montée Cardinal Decourtray, then Rue Cléberg and Rue de l'Antiquaille which lead to the Roman theatres, or walk down through the Jardins du Rosaire, a nice garden; then stairways lead to Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon. Of course, you can also take the funicular.

• Metal tower, (M: Fourvière). Next to the basilica stands a smaller (86 m, 282 ft) replica of the Eiffel Tower, completed in 1894. Its construction was supported by anticlerical people in order to have a non-religious building as the highest point in Lyon, which it actually is with an altitude of 372 m (1272 ft) at the top. It now serves as a radio and TV antenna and is closed to the public.  edit

• Roman theatres, (F: Minimes). These two well-preserved theatres are the most important remnant of the Roman city of Lugdunum. The Gallo-Roman museum was built next to them. The summer festival "Nuits de Fourvière" takes place here every year, which may cause access restrictions in the evening from June to early August. Free.  edit

Saint-Just neighbourhood, south-west of the Roman theatres, has less famous but also interesting historical sites.

• St Irénée church, 51 rue des Macchabées (F: St Just), ☎ +33 4 78 25 43 26, [24]. Church 8:30AM-6PM daily, crypt Sa 2:30PM-5PM, closed in Aug. The oldest church in Lyon, and one of the oldest in France. The site is built on a Gallo-Roman necropolis which was in use for centuries, until the Middle Ages. Some sarcophagi from the 5th or 6th century are visible in the courtyard. The crypt dates back to the 9th century and was renovated in the 19th century. Early Christian remains (from the 4th-6th centuries) are kept inside. The church was rebuilt in the 19th century in a neo-classical style with a Byzantine influence. An arch from the 5th century remains. Behind the church, the calvary built in 1687 is also a great viewpoint. Free.  edit

Croix-Rousse

• Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, rue Lucien Sportisse (M: Hôtel de Ville). This Roman theatre is the place where the first Christian martyrs of Gaul were killed. Documents say that it was the largest theatre in Gaul at that time, but nobody knows exactly how far it extends under the neighbouring buildings, nor what remains from the Roman era after centuries of construction. After the recent closing of the old Fine Arts school (the grey building overlooking the theatre), a debate was initiated about what should be done with this exceptional archaeological site. The theatre can be seen from the street but is not open to the public for safety reasons. edit

• Montée de la Grande Côte, (M: Hôtel de Ville/Croix-Rousse). This steep street has Renaissance buildings and offers a very beautiful view over the city from its top.  edit

• Croix-Rousse traboules: Look for the lanterns over the doors and the specific signs.

• 7 rue Mottet-de-Gérando <> 8 rue Bodin• 9 place Colbert <> 14 bis montée St Sébastien: the beautiful Cour des

Voraces.• 14 bis montée Saint-Sébastien <> 29 rue Imbert-Colomès• 20 rue Imbert Colomès <> 55 rue Tables Claudiennes• 30 bis rue Burdeau <> 17 rue René Leynaud (passage Thiaffait)• 6 rue des Capucins <> 1 rue Sainte Marie des Terreaux• 12 rue Sainte-Catherine <> 6 place des Terreaux• Mur des Canuts, Boulevard des Canuts (M: Hénon). This painted

wall is dedicated to the history and typical architecture of the Croix-Rousse hill.  edit

• St Bruno church, 9 impasse des Chartreux (B: 2/13/18/45/61-Clos Jouve), [25]. M-Sa 3PM-5PM. The only Baroque church in Lyon. The interior is magnificent, especially the altar (by Servandoni, modified by Soufflot, 18th century) and the canopy (by Servandoni). Free.  edit

• Jardin Rosa Mir, 87 grande rue de la Croix-Rousse (M: Hénon), [26]. 1 Apr-30 Nov, Sa 3PM-6PM. This amazing garden was built by a Spanish refugee, Jules Senis, and dedicated to his mother. Senis had cancer and had made the vow of building this garden if he ever came out of the hospital; fortunately, he did. The garden is a fine mixture of mineral and vegetal elements, in a style influenced by Gaudi's works in Barcelona. Free.  edit

Presqu'île

For the people of Lyon, Presqu'île is the place to go for shopping, dining or clubbing. It also represents a large part of the city's economic activity.

This narrow peninsula between the Rhône and Saône rivers was largely shaped by man.

Place des Terreaux, (M: Hôtel de Ville). This large square was completely redesigned in the 1990s by the artist Daniel Buren. On the East side stands the City Hall. On the North side, you will find the fountain sculpted by Bartholdi, the 'father' of the Statue of Liberty; this fountain was moved from the West side when the square was renovated. It now faces Palais St Pierre, which hosts the Museum of Fine Arts.  E

Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), place des Terreaux and place de la Comédie (M: Hôtel de Ville). The city hall, built in the 17th century, has a very beautiful facade on Place des Terreaux. The most notable feature of this facade is the sculpture representing King Henri IV on horseback (in the middle of the upper part). Unfortunately, it is impossible to visit the building except during the "Heritage days" (Journées du patrimoine) in mid-September.

Opera house, place de la Comédie (M: Hôtel de Ville). Opposite the City Hall stands the opera house. The 1826 theatre built by Chenavard and Pollet was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel who kept only the façades and the foyer on the first floor. The building was reopened in 1993. The history of these works was epic: a lot of technical problems occurred and the final cost of the project was six times the initial estimate. Today, the glass top has become a classical landmark of the city but the interior design is criticised, for both aesthetic and functional reasons.

• Mur des Lyonnais, rue de la Martinière (M: Hôtel de Ville). This impressive painted wall portraits some of the most famous people who were born in Lyon, from Renaissance poet Louise Labé to the Lumière brothers, the inventors of cinema, to chef Paul Bocuse.  edit

• Place Sathonay, (M: Hôtel de Ville). A charming neighbourhood square planted with old plane trees. Just sit at a terrace, watch the locals playing pétanque and enjoy the mood.  edit

• St Nizier church, place St Nizier (M: Hôtel de Ville). Very nice church of flamboyant Gothic style.  edit

• Rue Mercière, (M: Cordeliers). This cobblestone pedestrian street is

the only significant remain from the Renaissance in Presqu'île. The name of the street refers to the clothing industry. There are traboules connecting the street to the buildings on the Saône bank. The street hosts very numerous restaurants which are far from being all good.  edit

• Place des Jacobins, (M: Cordeliers/Bellecour). The state of this square was typical of the "automobile-friendly" urban planning of the 1960s: it was covered with tarmac, too much so given the reasonable traffic around it. A renovation project finished in late 2013, giving the square a greener aspect and more space for pedestrians. The main interest is the central fountain (1885) by architect Gaspard André and sculptor Degeorges. The four statues portray Lyon-born artists: painter Hippolyte Flandrin (1809-1864), engraver Gérard Audran (1640-1703), sculptor Guillaume Coustou (1677-1746) and architect Philibert Delorme (1510-1570).  edit

• Hôtel-Dieu, place de l'Hôpital (M: Bellecour). The majestic Hôtel-Dieu was the oldest hospital in Lyon and is one of the largest buildings in Presqu'île. The facade along the river Rhône is over 300 m (984 ft) long. The first hospital was built in 1184-1185; it was modified several times before Soufflot designed the current building, built from 1741 to 1761. The large dome was completed in 1765. The newly built Grange Blanche hospital (today Edouard Herriot) became the main medical centre in the city in the 1930s. Hôtel-Dieu doctors were pioneers in numerous specialities, including radiology (Etienne Destot), oncology (Léon Bérard), surgery (Joseph Gensoul, Matthieu Jaboulay) and orthopedics (Louis Léopold Ollier); they contributed in making Lyon the second medical centre in the country after Paris. The building no longer fits the needs of modern medicine, therefore the hospital has been closed down in 2010. Its future is not completely clear; it should be at least partially converted into a luxury hotel and shopping mall. Hôtel-Dieu hosts the Lyon hospitals museum (Musée des Hospices civils de Lyon).  Edit

•• Théâtre des Célestins, place des Célestins (M: Bellecour). Designed

by Gaspard André and opened in 1877, the building has a beautiful Italian-style facade. In the middle of the quiet plaza outside the theatre stands a strange periscope in which you can see rotating geometric shapes, like a kaleidoscope. Those were actually painted in the car park beneath the plaza by the famous artist Daniel Buren and they are reflected by a rotating mirror. To enter the car park and see the other side, take the stairway on your right when looking at the theatre.  

Place Bellecour, (M: Bellecour). The largest clear square in Europe. In the center stands the equestrian statue of Louis XIV ("under the horse's tail" is a usual meeting point for locals). Apart from this, it is rather empty, windy and not so pleasant. A renovation project is under way. Between the southeast corner of Place Bellecour and the river Rhône is Place Antonin Poncet. There was a hospital there (Hôpital de la Charité), built in 1622 and demolished in 1934. The only remain is the bell tower (Clocher de la Charité) built in 1667.

• Basilique St Martin d'Ainay, rue de l'Abbaye d'Ainay (M: Ampère Victor Hugo), ☎ +33 4 72 40 02 50, [27]. M-Sa 8:30AM-noon, 2:30PM-6PM, Su 8:30AM-noon. The only entirely Romanesque church in Lyon, dating back to the 11th-12th centuries. The abbey of Ainay was one of the most powerful in France between the 13th and the 16th centuries. A must-see for its very nice atmosphere. Free.  edit

• Boat trips on the Saône (Navig'Inter company), Quai des Célestins (M: Cordeliers/Bellecour, near Passerelle du Palais de Justice), ☎ +33 4 78 42 96 81, [28]. 28 Mar-8 Nov, Tu-F 2PM-6PM, Sa Su 11AM-6PM. A boat trip can be a good way to see Lyon from a different point of view. Boats will take you either upstream to Ile Barbe or downstream to the Confluence. Night trips available on Fridays and Saturdays. €9, child €6.  edit

Museums and Galleries[edit]

• Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts (Museum of Fine Arts), 20 place des Terreaux (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 72 10 17 40, [29]. M, W, Th, Sa 10AM-6PM, F 10:30AM-6PM, partial closures noon-2:15PM, ticket office closes 5:30PM. €7, reduced €4, under 18, EU students, and some others free, audioguide is included in the price..  edit

• Musée d'Art contemporain (Museum of Contemporary Art), 81 quai Charles de Gaulle (B: C1-Musée d'Art contemporain), ☎ +33 4 72 69 17 18, [30]. Wed-Sun 12PM-7PM. Holds only temporary exhibitions which are often very interesting and popular. Fees vary depending on the exhibition.  edit

• Institut Lumière - Musée vivant du Cinéma, 25 rue du Premier Film (M: Monplaisir-Lumière), ☎ +33 4 78 78 18 95, [31]. Tu-Su 11AM-6:30PM. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, and 25 Dec. Open on bank holiday Mondays. Located in the Lumière brothers' house, this museum presents an interesting history of cinema through various items and film excerpts. Also worth seeing for the lovely architecture. €6, under 18 and students €5.  edit

• Musées Gadagne: Historical museum of Lyon and International

puppet museum, 14 rue de Gadagne/1 place du Petit Collège (M: Vieux Lyon / B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 78 42 03 61, [32]. W-Su 11AM-6:30PM except public holidays. After 10 years of major refurbishment works, these museums dedicated to the history of the city and to puppets (like the famous Guignol from Lyon) were reopened in June 2009, with great public and critical success. The building itself, a magnificent Renaissance palace, is worth a visit. A nice garden and cafe have also been created at the top of the building (free access). 1 museum: €6 including audioguide, 2 museums: €8. Under 26 and disabled: free.  edit

• Musée urbain Tony Garnier, 4 rue des Serpollières (T: Etats-Unis-Musée Tony Garnier), ☎ +33 4 78 75 16 75, [33]. Visitor centre: Tu-Sa 2PM-6PM, guided tours Sa at 2:30PM or by appointment for groups of 10 or more. This museum was created during the renovation of the Etats-Unis neighbourhood in the 1980s and 1990s, and the inhabitants were strongly involved in the project. The museum comprises a recreated apartment of the 1930s, which shows how life was like in these very modern housing units, and the 25 wall paintings depicting Garnier's work and ideals. You can also see the walls on your own but you will miss the interesting comments on the history of the area and the social project behind it. Guided tours: €6, under 18 €4, children under 5 free; audioguide: €5, under 18 €3, children under 5 free.  edit

• Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Museum of the Resistance during World War II), 14 avenue Berthelot (T: Centre Berthelot), ☎ +33 4 72 73 33 54, [34]. W-Su 9AM-5:30PM, Closed on holidays. Located in the former Gestapo regional headquarters, this museum depicts the daily life in Lyon under the German occupation and keeps memories of this tragic period. Often holds exhibitions (mostly photography). €3. Free for children under 18.  edit

• Musée des Arts Décoratifs / Musée des Tissus (Decorative Arts museum / Fabrics museum), 34 rue de la Charité (M: Ampère Victor Hugo), ☎ +33 4 78 38 42 00 (musees@lyon.cci.fr), [35]. Tu-Su 10AM-noon, 2PM-5:30PM, closed on holidays. €4.58, groups (10 adults minimum) €3.81, students €2.29, free for children under 18.

•

Musée gallo-romain de Fourvière, 17 rue Cléberg (F: Minimes-Théâtres Romains), ☎ +33 4 72 38 49 30, [36]. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM, closed 1Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov and 25 Dec. The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of things relating to Rhone-Alps history. A free visit to the Roman theatres may be just as interesting for those not into the details. €4, reduced fee €2.50, under 18 and disabled free; free for all on Th.  Edit

Parks and Gardens

• Parc de la Tête d'Or, Between boulevard des Belges, quai Charles de Gaulle and boulevard de Stalingrad (M: Masséna / B: C1-several stops around the park). 15 Oct -14 Apr 6:30AM-8:30PM, 15 Apr-14 Oct 6:30AM-10:30PM. Completed in 1862, this 105-hectare English-style garden is one of the largest and arguably one of the most beautiful urban parks in France. It is a popular place for families as well as joggers. The highlights of the park include the large greenhouses, the botanical garden, the rose garden and the recently added "African plain" in which animals wander in a natural-style environment, perfect for children.  edit

• Rhône banks, quai Charles de Gaulle, ave de Grande-Bretagne, quai de Serbie, quai Sarrail, quai Augagneur, quai Claude Bernard, ave Leclerc (M: Foch, Guillotière, Stade de Gerland). The right bank of the river Rhône has recently been turned from an ugly car park into a 5-km promenade with various landscapes and great views over the Croix-Rousse and Presqu'Ile areas. The place had immediate success among locals. A bicycle is perfect to enjoy it, except on sunny weekends, when it is too crowded to ride safely. edit

• Parc de Gerland, avenue Jean Jaurès (M: Stade de Gerland). The Rhône banks promenade ends here. This recent park does not have the majesty of Parc de la Tête d'Or but it is far less crowded and boasts some nice examples of modern landscaping. Still under development, it should cover 80 hectares when completed. Edit

• Parc des Hauteurs, place de Fourvière/Montée Nicolas de Lange (F: Fourvière). Located between the metal tower of Fourvière and the Loyasse cemetery, this is rather a promenade with a nice footbridge offering great views towards the Monts d'Or and Beaujolais. There is an aerial adventure course and a skiing and moutain bike slope.  edit

• Jardin des Curiosités (Garden of Curiosities), Passage des Hauts de St Just (F: Minimes/St Just). Small garden hidden in the bottom of a street/car park, behind a metallic door. It was designed by Canadian artists in a surrealistic spirit (recalls Magritte or Dali). Also a very nice viewpoint over the southern part of Lyon.  edit

• Croix-Rousse market, Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, 69001 Lyon (M: Croix-Rousse). Tue-Sun 7AM-1PM. Very popular and typical market mith many local producers. On Tuesdays, also sells non-

food items. Very crowded on sunny Sundays, but this is the right time to enjoy the particular mood of the neighbourhood.  edit

• St Antoine market, Quai St Antoine and Quai des Célestins, 69002 Lyon (M: Cordeliers). Tue-Sun 7AM-1PM. The other major market, in a wealthier part of town. Also some local fruit and vegetable producers. Eating oysters by the Saône is a very pleasant occupation before Sunday lunch.  edit

The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called bouchons; the origin of the word is unclear (it literally means "cork"). They appeared at the end of the 19th century and flourished in the 1930s, when the economic crisis forced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opened their own restaurants for a working-class clientele. These women are referred to as mères (mothers); the most famous of them, Eugénie Brazier, became one of the first chefs to be awarded three stars (the highest ranking) by the famous Michelin gastronomic guide. She also had a young apprentice called Paul Bocuse. Eating in a good bouchon is certainly a must-do. They serve the typical local dishes:

• salade lyonnaise (Lyon salad): green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg;

• saucisson chaud: a hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine (saucisson beaujolais) or in a bun (saucisson brioché);

• quenelle de brochet: dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce (Nantua sauce);

• tablier de sapeur: marinated tripes coated with breadcrumbs then fried, even locals often hesitate before trying it;

• andouillette: sausage made with chopped tripes, usually served with a mustard sauce;

• gratin dauphinois: the traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream;

• cervelle de canut (cervelle' = ' brain): fresh cheese with garlic and herbs.

• rognons de veau à la moutarde: veal kidneys in a mustard sauce. Delicious and textural experience.

Budget[edit]

• Chez Mounier — A traditional bouchon (restaurant) with good food for a very reasonable price (a complete menu for €13). Located on the south-east street Rue des Marronniers of the Place Bellecour.

• Le Ferrari — A place to visit for all tifosi with good food in a special place. Pay 1 piza, get 1 for free to take away for about 9 €. Located at 162, cours du Docteur Long, in the Montchat area,

Lyon3.• La Vieille Canaille - A typical french restaurant where the

atmosphere is friendly. You will enjoy the large range of wine, the menu explanation and wine suggestions of the waiter. English speaking/menu in english - Terrace in summer - First course + Main course + Dessert = 24€ - Open from Tuesday to saturday. /+33(0)4 04 72 71 47 12/ 14 rue Saint Jérôme - 69007 LYON

• Otherwise, kebab shops abound, most with the same price: €4.50 for a kebab, €5 for a kebab with frites. Look especially near Place des Terreaux (M: Hôtel de Ville).

• El Loco Latino, 15 min across the Rhone from Hotel de Ville. Latino bar with low budget food. The day menu is €7.50 and the empanada is €4.

• Wallace Bar, 2 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 72 00 23 91, [76]. Food served Mon-Sat 12PM-3PM/7PM-10PM, Sun 11AM-9PM. This nice pub is a good spot for drinks and live sports, but also serves good British and French food in large portions. From €8.  edit

• Many bakeries offer good quality sandwiches, made with fresh baguette of course. Try, for example, Chez Jules, 7 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), or Kayser, Place Louis Pradel, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville).

Mid-range[edit]

• Le Resto d'Alice, 34, Rue Sergent Blandan (Rue de Capucins begins just south of Croix Paquet metro station, take it 300m west; note street name changes), ☎ +33 4 78 28 09 33. Small bouchon with cute rustic interior and patio located on nice green plaza. The Andouillette and gratin dauphinois are particularly good. Service is very friendly. Also surrounded by other interesting looking eating options and convenient velo'v station on plaza. Full dinner w/dessert and wine €30.  edit

• Bouchon Chez Paul, 11 rue du Major Martin, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 78 28 35 83 (restaurantchezpaul@voila.fr), [77]. Closed Sun, Mon (lunch). A very good bouchon serving huge portions. Noisy and friendly. Full menu €25.  edit

• La Mâchonnerie, 36 rue Tramassac, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 42 24 62, [78]. Dinner only except Sat, closed Sun. Traditional local cuisine, but the place is more comfortable than a bouchon. Delicious, genuine, home-made dishes served in very large quantities, and a very good wine list favouring the locals - a very good place to taste the real Beaujolais. Upon reservation, the restaurant can accommodate quite large groups. Full menu €28-45.  edit

• Le Resto, 20, rue Mulet (Just off rue de la Republique). Very nice little

restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well.  edit

• Chez Martial, 34 rue Saint Jean (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 38 31 75. Tiny bouchon, maybe the only acceptable one in a street full of tourist traps. Menu €19.  edit

• Le Layon, 52 rue Mercière (M: Cordeliers), ☎ +33 4 78 42 94 08. Mon-Sun, lunch and dinner. Serves all day (12PM-12AM) on Sat and Sun. In another street full of tourist traps, this restaurant offers very good, classical local and French cuisine. Try the grenouilles (frogs). Very nice terrace. Good wine list at interesting prices. Full menu €23.50/27.50.  edit

• Les Adrets, 30 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 38 24 30. Very good classic French cuisine, made from quality products, in a nice decor. One of the best places in the area. Lunch from €13, dinner €23 to €38.  edit

• Le Potager des Halles, 3 rue de la Martinière, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 72 00 24 84, [79]. Closed Sun, Mon. This restaurant serves traditional French cuisine made from very good and very fresh products, with a Mediterranean influence. The chocolate fondant dessert is amazing. Very good wine list too. The lunch menu is an absolute steal. Lunch €16.50, dinner €34/38. If you want cheaper but just as good, try Le Bistrot du Potager next door, where the same owners serve Spanish-style tapas which are a great value for money (no reservations).  edit

• Balthaz'Art, 19 rue des Pierres Plantées (M: Croix-Rousse), ☎ +33 4 72 07 08 88, [80]. Lunch Thu-Sat, dinner Tue-Sat. Croix-Rousse has more and more interesting restaurants, and this one is a fine example. In a "flea-market-meets-art-gallery" decor, you will enjoy a fresh and creative cuisine with Mediterranean and Asian influences. Nice wine list, and it is still possible to get a table at a relatively short notice. Full menu €25/28.  edit

• L'Art et la Manière, 102 Grande rue de la Guillotière, 69007 Lyon (M: Saxe-Gambetta), ☎ +33 4 37 27 05 83, [81]. Closed Sat, Sun, Mon dinner. Small no-tourist restaurant in a no-tourist area. Friendly yet professional service, short menu but very creative, high-quality cooking. Good (although short) wine list. The best bottles are at amazingly low prices given their "constant mark-up" policy. Lunch from €16, dinner €26/33.  edit

• Brasserie Georges, 30, cours de Verdun (Located behind Perrache Station), ☎ +33 (0)4 72565456, [82]. An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don't want to eat. from €25 to 35.  edit

• L'Ouest, 1 quai du Commerce, 69009 Lyon (M: Gare de Vaise), ☎ +33 4 37 64 64 64, [83]. A brasserie owned by Paul Bocuse, near the river Saône. The specialities are fish and cuisine of the Caribbean. Full menu from €24.  edit

• Le Bistrot de St-Paul, 2 quai de Bondy, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 78 28 63 19, [84]. This restaurant serves mostly specialities from southwestern France (duck, foie gras, cassoulet...). Lunch €14.50, dinner €21.50/29.50/33.  edit

• Espace Le Bec, Le Centre, upper level, St Exupéry airport, ☎ +33 4 72 22 71 86. Before boarding your return flight, you can treat yourself with a last fine meal in Lyon. This place was opened by Nicolas Le Bec, who once ran the most trendy gastronomic restaurant in the city and offers quality bistronomic cuisine. 2-course menu from €20, 3-course menu from €25.  edit