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I SEE AFRICA REPORT

I SEE AFRICA: MADE IN AFRICA REPORT

MADE IN AFRICAGROWTH OF CLOTHING MANUFACTURING

Made in Africa report looks at the key playerscontributing to the growth in the clothing manufacturingsector in East Africa.

The report will cover the following points

- Second Hand clothing market

- Locally made...promoting local products

- Made in Africa...with China

- Conscious fashion


‘We (East Africa) produce cotton, wool and leather which are used for manufacturing clothes and shoes. I don’t see why our people should be wearing second hand clothes and shoes…why should we export leather as a raw material and then import poor quality shoes which wear out in 3 – 4 days’ John Magufuli – Tanzanian President


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The African continent is in a phase of redesign. Governments in various countries such as Kenya and Rwanda are working on creating innovative, tech-savvy brands that are associated with their countries.

East Africa has been hailed as the future clothing manufacturing hub which has seen an increase in international investment and infrastructural development. The main players in this sector has been China as they currently hold a footing in Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda and are branching into Nigeria.

As much as East African governments are open to partnerships and alliances with international governments for investment in the manufacturing sector. There is also a drive to support local productsand shift consumers mind-set to consider locally produced items versus international items. NGO Oxfam estimates that 70% of clothes donated globally end up in Africa. Countries such as Rwanda,Uganda, and Tanzania find it challenging for local retailers and fashion designers to compete with the second hand clothing market as the perception is that international brands are better quality, and the second hand clothes are sold at cheaper rates.

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A With the rise of buy local campaigns in various East African countries, governments are looking at ways to reduce the influence of second hand clothingin their markets. 2017 saw East African governments (Burundi, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania, and Uganda) propose the implementation of an import subsidisation. This will be a tax wavier of duties and added VAT on raw materials, fabric and accessories which are not available locally. This goes a step further with talks of banning the imports of second hand clothing by 2019. Currently organisations are working to evaluate if the countries will be able to cater to the East African consumers. This is all in line with the aim to reduce the cost of local production and manufacturing.

The Made in Africa report gives insight on how certain countries are capitalising on their potential role within production and manufacturing of clothing for the global fashion industry; while simultaneously building a buy local ecosystem.


Promoting Local Brands

East African countries such as Uganda are pushing for the support of local products.Aside from limiting the import of second hand clothing in countries such as Burundi and Tanzania, governments have created tag lines and campaigns to open residents to aspects of purchasing locally made goods. Many of the campaigns such as Made in Uganda are still in its early stages of implementation. However, we see governments and businesses are creating events, sales, and tax incentives to encourage consumers.


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Buy Kenya, Build Kenya

‘The threat that many African countries, including Kenya suffer from, is that we do produce things. But sometimes things are unavailable to the domestic market’ Adam Mohamed- CS Industrialisation and Trade

The Kenyan government is working on ways to build the textile and manufacturing sectors in their country. With collaborations and partnerships,the Kenyan government continues to dress up the potential growth of this sector in order to draw international investment. The apparel and textile sector is at the heart of its industrialisation agenda. Currently the textile industry in Kenya is estimated to have produced 22 000 job opportunities over the next 3 years. Adam Mohamed believes that the Buy Kenya, Build Kenya has the potential to create 100 000 new jobs in the clothing industry.

Local companies are stepping in and playing their part in creating channels which will contribute to the growth of the manufacturing industry in Kenya. KAM launched its 2017 Agenda which seeks to increase the sectors contribution to the economy by 16% for the next three years. The agenda calls for the investment in technical skills and creating nurturing environments for SME’s. Companies like Jumia Kenya have created an online store dedicated to selling locally made products.

Kenya’s AGOA agreement with the US has seen interest from international investors steppingin to assist with the growth of the manufacturing sector. A US programme has been set to train 200 young Kenyans in clothing manufacturing. The American international development assistanceagency plans establish seven training centres around the country. Graduates will then be placed in garment making firms. The Kenyan government aims to raise exports to the US to Sh300 billion instead of the current Sh 50 billion.


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The Kenyan government has issued a VAT and duty exemption for its export processing companies to sell 20% of their production to the local market. This saw the creation of the First Ever Super sale, as the government works to shift consumer’s mind-set from the usual conceptof purchasingsecond hand clothing. Consumers can purchase international brands produced in Kenya such as Victoria Secret at discount prices.

Kilmal in partnership with Brand Kenya expanded the reach of the sale by selling products online. The company further encourages Kenyanmanufactures to sell their items in Kenya at affordable prices in bid to promote local production.

The Buy Kenya, Build Kenya has extended beyond the country’s border. Kenya’s first running shoe company, Athletic, tackled the question: ‘Why does a country renowned for its Olympic gold medallist runners not have a local professional running shoe brand?’

Founders Navalayo Osembo – Ombati and Weldon Kennedy collaborated with runners Joan Cherop Massah and Justin Lagat to create a functional running shoe that is produced and manufactured in Kenya and sold locally as well as internationally.


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Made in Rwanda

The Rwandan government has set up various strategies to promote the Made in Rwanda campaign. With the vision to grow into a middle income nation by 2020. The Rwandan government aims to uplift industries to become known as a knowledge based economy and a beacon for intra- African trade.

Thus far the country has been exposed to efforts by government and private sectors to promote locally made goods as they target a 28% export growth by 2020. Efforts such as taking part in the banning of second hand clothing from International countries has seen a decrease in imported clothing by 12-15%. The government has also increased tariff of raw material of raw hides and skins to ensure the local shoe manufactures have sufficient raw materials. Since the restrictions, Rwanda has had a drop of 28 000kg of monthly imports.

Training and Up skilling

The Rwandan government has set a target to create 200 00 non-agricultural jobs annually by 2018. This has seen the government establish Ma’s clothing factory to train locals in clothing manufacturing. Efforts such as the Kigali garment centre established by Rwandan tailors shows how locals are also taking a step forward in supporting the Made in Rwanda campaign as well as expanding on clothing production and textile industry. According to Minicom.kgc the factory is expected to create 2000 jobs.

The Kigali Special Economic Zone is a company that has dedicated a section of its business to up skill the Rwandan youth in clothing production, supported by the Rwandan development board (RDB) and the Workforce Development Authority. Attendees are granted employment after their six month course.


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International investment

Rwandan government is also pushing to create attractive sections for international investors to amplify the Made in Rwanda campaign.The Burera garment factory is a joint project by Burera District and Japanese venture capital firm Noguchi Holdings. The factory executive officer, Jean Marie Niyonzima, stated that the Burera garment factoryhas since signed an agreement to produce 200 000 items of clothing for a company based in Hong Kong. The Burundian leather manufacture and Able are both textile makers that have also entered the Rwandan market and are working on building their factories in the country.

Promoting local goods 2016 saw the launch of the Made in Rwanda expo. The private sector Federation in partnership with the Rwandan government created a platform that aims to promote local products and services to boost domestic production. Designer brands such as Made in Kigali,Uzuri fashions, and Kipepepeo kids fashion are just some of the participants.

‘These are the kinds of initiatives we are focusing on within this Made in Rwanda campaign. To change the mind-set of our people towards locally made products and boost value along the value chain production, it’s imperative to sustain the campaign.’ Francois Kanimba – Minster of Trade and industry


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The buy local and build local will see more African-based fashion labels pushing for intra- trade for resources, industry opportunities and collaboration prospects.

Ethiopian born model and entrepreneur, Liya Kebede, started the fashion label Lemlem in 2007. The brand produces white cotton garments hand-woven in a traditional technique which she wore while growing up. The company has built a client base that has embraced local goods instead of second- hand clothing that has flooded the market. Lemlem production is expected to exceed 25 000 units with 300 distribution points in six continents this year alone. The clothing brand currently employees 250 wavers and crafts people in Ethiopia and has since expanded its production to Kenya. While sourcing raw material from Rwanda, Madagascar and Mali. The Lemlem brand also manufactures its accessories line in South Africa, Kenya, Morocco and Ethiopia and sources materials from Mali, Burkina Faso and Namibia.


Made in Africa…with China

Africa has been noted as the next front runner for retail and clothing manufacturing. The Chinese government have invested heavily into countries such as Nigeria, Kenya and Rwanda. The investment in infrastructural development of railways as seen with the opening of the train in Kenya is proof of how China is broadening its influence in the continent.

Chinese investmentAlthough the Chinese government have not directly stated their overall aim with their investments in various African countries. There are segments that add to the Chinese investment picture. The Chinese government is looking towards the future and status of their country. With an aging population and low infancy rate the government is introducing policies to tilt the economy. The transition will see China move from a manufacturing hub to a service economy; hence the tougher environmental regulations and wage increases in manufacturing.

China is working on ways to expand its manufacturing hub and trading influence. The evolution of manufacturing in the country will see the investment in high technology upgrades, this relating to the future of automation in manufacturing. While producing fewer units at higher profit margins, the aim is to become boutique manufactures. The expansion of Chinese manufacturing is leading to textile companies moving closer to their raw material base. This is said to form part of the value chain repositioning strategy as Chinese companies are using Africa as a gateway to emerging markets.


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One Belt, One Road

The one belt one road (OBOR) is a Chinese led project which aims to become an interconnected network of ports, roads, railways, air routes, and pipelines. This will connect Asia with Europe and East Africa.

So far the project has seen the arrival of a train in London, in January 2017. The train spent 18 days on the rails crossing Kazakhstan, Russia, Belarus, Poland, Germany and France, filled with various goods. This route is seen to be less costly than plane and faster than sea. If the Chinese government successfully implements OBOR as its form of exporting, this will usher in a new era of transportation from China to Europe.

Chinese infrastructural investment of speed rails, airports, and highways in African countries depicts the groundwork of the OBOR extension. Business of fashion stated that China produces 60% of the world’s shoes and 43% of the world’s clothing. The shift in the Chinese economic strategy has seen Chinese manufactures moving their factories to countries with low wage regulations such as Ethiopia. While also investing in countries such as Kenya and Tanzania, as they are expanding their manufacturing industry.


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Made in Ethiopia

Ethiopia has been marked as one of the countries to lead in apparel and shoe manufacturing in Africa. The Ethiopian government intends for the country to become the industrial hub of Africa, with the aim of building a middle class income country by 2020. Addis Ababa is said to be in its second phase of its growth and development plan with the assistance and support of Beijing.

The textile and apparel sector is the second biggest income provider for the country. The plan is for Ethiopia to generate $30 billion in foreign exchange earnings from this sector by 2030. The government is focused on having 150 companies in this sector by 2020. Thus far, China has 71 factories operating in the country.

The country has created incentives for foreign investment. President of JP textiles, Yang Nan, explains how manufacturing only represents 5% of Ethiopia’s GDP. Chinese investor’s intent on making most of the textile and clothing in Ethiopia.

‘Manufacturing in Ethiopia should soon turn into a new improved Bangladesh’ Yang Nan – President JP Textiles


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With the low cost in wages, Ethiopia’s basic wages for manufacturing employees in Hawassa Industrial park is said to be $50 per month. Compared to the $300 employees in Guangdong province in China as stated by Dr Lauren Johnsto, an academic specialist at the Melbourne Institute of applied economic and social research. The availability of resources, low cost in energy due to the use of hydro power and low tax that enables easy access to the U.S and Europe market under AGOA are additional incentives for international investors.

Jinmao which provides exports mainly for U.S brands and Huajian shoe manufacturer for brands like Clarks, Calvin Klein and Ivanka Trump have since opened shop in the country. There are currently three industrial parks built by China, namely: Hawassa, Mekelle and Kombokha. The Chinese government have also built an electric railway connecting the Addis Ababa to the port in Djibouti. This will speed up the delivery of goods from the capital city to Dijbouti.

The Ethiopian government have taken the quickest route to enhance employment in the country along with boosting the manufacturing sector. Huajian shoes has since hired 3500 workers to manufacture 2 million pairs of shoes annually. The textile industry parks have so far created 40 000 jobs in the manufacturing sector. The country is set to see more growth with the Chinese Ethiopian Industrial Park of Dongguan under construction in Addis Ababa. It’s expected to be the country’s economic zone by 2020. With interest from countries such a Vietnam, Bangladesh and the U.S, the pool of investors in Ethiopia will keep flowing with China leading the way.


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‘Industrialisation will allow Africa to follow the footsteps of Japan, South Korea, Taiwan and China: to build factories that employ its booming population and refashion its institutions to meet demands of modern capitalism’ Yang Nun – President JP Textiles

Building through training

The Ethiopian government is looking at various ways to train and groom a technically-skilled population which is part of the drive to lessen its dependence on subsistence farming. Dr Arkekebe that the Ethiopian government is working to build universities to enable a wider availability for vocational training and up skilling. The accessibility of skills among the youth in Ethiopia will see more big companies and international investors creating platforms which will enable the training and skilling of the growing young workforce

‘Investors are putting money into training the local workforce to help raise manufacturing standards’ Worku Zewde – General Manager of Ethiopia knitted sportswear


Conscious Fashion

There is a growth of businesses moving into a frame of consciousness with regards to how they perform and respond to social economic and environmental issues. The fashion industry is said to be the second biggest contributor to the global pollution. The industry still receives wide criticism over fair labour practices and ethical salaries for factory workers.

As African countries regain part of their status as clothing manufacturing hubs, ethical business practices and carbon foot print will be topics which are bound to surface. Conscious fashion explores ethical and sustainable fashion within Africa. Ethiopia and South Africa are leading the way in piloting and creating an eco-friendly manufacturing ecosystems. While fashion designers from Kenya, Mozambique and Cameroon are creating fashion brands that incorporate upcycling within their products. Upcycling fashion as a business venture in Africa is still in its infancy. As various African governments are working to reduce waste and pollution in their countries as seen with the banning of plastic bags in Rwanda and Kenya. We also see start-ups catering to the repurpose of waste as a response to over consumerism. Businesses and governments will need to go a step further with the challenge of positioning up cycling fashion as an alternative to international brands and second hand clothing. Up cycling start-ups in Africa usually resort to e-commerce as a selling approach, this is seen with the online boutique Kuwala, which curates unique pieces from socially- responsible fashion brands inspired by Africa. Kuwala sells handmade crafts from fashion designers based all across Africa and the diaspora.


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Up cycling fashion

Suave Kenya creates backpacks with the incorporation of locally sourced ‘African’ fabrics and fabric cut-offs. Founder, Mohamed Awale collects fabric pieces from factories across Nairobi. The brand creates exclusive once-off items, as the bags are produced from left over fabric; therefore no bag is the same. Suave Kenya currently produces 200 units a month which are stocked across Africa and Europe. Celebrities such as Lupta Nyongo have been spotted with one.


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Mima- te designers, Nela and Nelly Guambe bring new life to vintage clothing through their brand. Second hand clothing markets in Mozambique are their fabric stores.


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Eco friendly textile

The Impact hub held in Johannesburg, South Africa earlier this year lead with the topic of sustainable fashion and textile in Africa.The event saw the debut of Africa’s first indigenous cashmere, produced from the local imbuzi goat. The company, Ivili Loyoya, located in Ibika, Eastern Cape South Africa, showcased a variety of yarn blends in silk and merino wool in the Dedani Collection. The cashmere is available in various colours made from eco dyes from leaves, fruits, bark and flowers. The eco dyes created a warm earthy colour palette of orche, nut, morula, and wild peach.


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Sustainable manufacturing

Trade Call Investment (TCI) apparel has opened its eco-friendly design centre in Epping Cape Town, South Africa. The design centre is seen as a good example of the dual combo to sustainable fashion and business.

With the use of industry expertise in lowering carbon footprint, the centre will be producing clothing for local retailers Woolworths, Truworths, Edcon group and Queenspark, The centre will also produce clothing for international retailers Top Shop, River Island, Super dry, and Urban fitters.

The manufacture aims to reduce local retailer’s dependence on exporting raw materials and designs which result in high carbon emission. As a response to the conscious consumer, TCI is upending this process by reducing local retailer’s reliance on international suppliers, while lowering carbon footprint operations through innovative green practices; thus creating opportunities for South African designers and seamstress.

The TCI design centre was built to be environmentally conscious through its green building practise of solar power panels, indoor plants, and a vegetable garden for employees and canteen. The furniture in the centre was produced locally and made of recycled plastic, wood, and steel.

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International interest in Africa’s manufacturing potential has seen great growth in Kenya, Rwanda, and Ethiopia manufacturing sector. As the leading clothing manufacturing hub, Ethiopia continues to pave the way to the exploration of sustainable clothing manufacturing in East Africa.

Clothing brand H&M have agreed to a long term partnership for a new textile factory in Ethiopia. The factory is expected to produce 4000 jobs while empowering woman and produce textile in conjunction with environmental considerations. The pilot textile factory developed by Swed Fund, DBL group will include local and international partners.

‘The aim is to enhance the know –how around sustainable production of ready – made garments in Ethiopia’ Anna Ryott – Managing Director of Swed Fund

The Swedish retailer will contribute its expertise in regards to large scale textile production in a sustainable manner. Organisations such as Ethical Apparel Africa (EAA) will be one of the main contributors pushing for ethical and environmental practices within the fashion industry. EAA was founded to facilitate ethical sourcing in countries such as Ghana, Ethiopia and Kenya. Eco friendly start-ups will be taking the lead in shifting the African consumers mind set to the process of clothing manufacturing. As fast fashion moves in slower motion and big companies start acting on reducing their carbon foot print, so will African governments be required to look into legislation in relation to promoting sustainable and ethical manufacturing in the apparel sector.


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