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make: up
GPIETHE SEASONAL ACCESSORY GUIDE
the spring issue!
MA
£4.25 ISSUE 2
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NET - A - PORTER . COM
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advertisement
American Apparel ®
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magpie.com spring 2009
IMA
GE:
Kim
@ W
ildfo
x C
ou
ture
07
09
10
12
14
16
19
21
26
WE SAY
CONTRIBUTORS
EYE CANDYA nice picture to set you on your way
WE SHARESpring’s hottest catwalk accessory trends
EYE SPYSunglasses to suit all
MAKE YOUR OWN...headband
28
30
36
38
40
45
46
48
54
HEADS, SHOULDERS, KNEES & TOESThis season’s lookbook
I CONFESSHeels or no heels?
FASHION
FOCUS: IN THE CLOSET WITH...Student Janette Coalter
FOCUS: BREAKING THE MOULDJewellery designer Kirstie Maclaren
FOCUS: ICONLady Gaga
CULTURE: MAD HATTERV&A Hats: An anthology exhibition
CULTURE: DEBATEJewellery as art
FASHIONBest of British
SHHHH!Spanish Moss Vintage eBay boutique
THE BIG QUESTIONIs make-up the ultimate accessory?
WE SEEStyle on the streets of New York
2009SPRING
If you go down to the woods today
CONTENTS
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JoY
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magpie.com spring 2009
IMA
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we say
that spring clean has left plenty of space in our wardrobes for some new accessories...
EDITOR’S LETTER
Our favourite season is finally here! Our sense of individual
style is no longer hidden under thick winter coats, and that
Spring clean has left plenty of space in our wardrobes for
some new accessories.
It seems Spring 2009 is the season of the hair accessory.
From bows to bowler hats, head gear is definitely where it’s
at, and who sums this up better than this issue’s icon Lady
GaGa (pg 40). Take inspiration from the latest catwalk trends
(pg 12), get tips from the LookBook (pg 21) and even learn
how to Make Your Own (pg 19).
But, if head gear’s not your thing, fear not- we’ve got
lots more to offer. In Breaking The Mould (pg 38) innovative
jewellery designer Kirstie Maclaren invites us into her world
for a sneak peek at the new collection. We hit the streets of
New York to see what accessories are making it big Stateside
(pg 14) and ask The Big Question: Is make-up the Ultimate
Accessory? (pg 26) in this issue’s debate.
If it’s culture your after, head to the V&A for Stephen
Jones’ Hats: An Anthology (pg 45) or, if you’re looking for a
fashion-fix, we’ve got two stunning shoots to get you inspired.
As usual, the team have had bundles of fun with this issue,
and we hope you do too!
Abigail, Sarah & Claire
xxx
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magpie.com spring 2009
we share
09
MAGPIE MAGAZINE9 Berkeley road
Southampton
SO15 2JB
Tel: +44 (0)23 8022 3854
magpiemag.com
CONTACTS:
Sarah Wellsman
Abigail Richards
Claire Smith
special thanks to:
Kirstie Maclaren
Hannah Al-Shemmeri
Janette Coalter
Suzanne Carafano
Sophie Press
SUBSCRIPTIONS:
one year for £14 in the UK. International
orders available on request. Address
subscription orders and enquiries
to magpie, 9 Berkeley Road,
Southampton, S015 2JB, or email:
magpie is published by lulu media.
reproduction without permission is
prohibited.
luluMagpie magazine and everything contained
within is copyright of lulu media. No material
may be reproduced without written permission
from the publisher. The views and content of the
magazine are not necessarily those held by lulu
media, its directors or its employers.Cover image: Photographed by Bella Howard for Topshop.
Styled by Lucy Ascot. Cardigan by Kate Moss for Topshop, Bag by Topshop.
Sarah, who penned Breaking the Mould (pg 38), is a
journalist who loves getting all the juicy details. Well,
it made sense to give her curiosity some purpose. She
worked for Adrenaline, an extreme sports magazine,
before joining Magpie at the start of this year. Her
favourite accessory is a vintage leather Marc by Marc
Jacobs bag she nabbed off eBay, and a chunky gold
charm necklace she bought at a cute little boutique
in sunny Brighton.
CONTRIBUTORS
Abigail, this issue’s investigator to the big question,
Is Make Up the Ultimate Accessory? (pg 26) is an
entusistic journalist who loves the pace of the job. The
young journalist started her career as a freelancer
before being nabbed by Magpie late last year. Her
intrigue and love of vintage often sees her writing in the
culture section. Her favourite accessory is an emerald
pendant necklace given to her by her grandmother,
and her leather slouch boots from urban outfitters.
Claire Smith, who styled If You Go Down to The Woods
Today (p.30), is a fashion journalist who recently joined
the Magpie team after working on male fashion mag
Unit and extreme sports magazine Adrenaline with
our very own Sarah. A self-confessed vintage lover,
her must have accessories for this summer are a pair
of oversized vintage sunglasses from Rokit and some
fringed gladitor sandals that she’s watching on eBay,
perfect for the festival season.
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magpie.com
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eye
candy
Forget chocolate or diamonds,
shoes are most definitely the way
to a girl’s heart.
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Image from Asos at prshots.com
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uellal This season is all about making a statement with your
accessories. At Luella, sticky-sweet confectionery colours
flooded the catwalk, with bubble gum pink and tango orange
oozing from gloves, bags and hair pieces. Think garden party
chic, with a splash of psychedelic colour.
Oversized floral bows and fluorescent netting prove that
hair accessories are here to stay, with fifties style shades and
red lipstick to match. Ruffle-edged gloves and pretty leather
handbags reflect a subtle combination of old English style
with rebellious cool. Take inspiration and experiment with one
or two key pieces, adding a pair of ankle socks and Mary-
Jane’s for that perfect preppy style.
Luella Spring/Summer 2009
Flower Power
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Topshopunique
Sportswear goes glam with pale pastel shades and geometric
prints at the Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2009 catwalk.
With billowing jersey bows and curly beehives which would
put Amy Winehouse to shame, it was the eccentric details
that caught our attention.
Painted wooden wedges with sheer stockings provide a
quirky take on this season’s ankle-sock obsession, and suede
stilettos are a great alternative for those who are a little less
daring. Ice-cream pendants are cute and kitsch and give
off that summer seaside vibe, and black waist belts keep the
silhouette slim. Accessorise with colour and dare to be bright
and bold this Spring!
Bows are big!
Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2009
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we se
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style on the STREETs
NEW YORK
Tanya, 24, Visual Merchandiser Eve, 25, Stylist
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We head stateside for a peek across the pond
we see
New Yorkers are known for their
statement style and the best place
to spot it is on the sidewalk, not the
catwalk. Filled with stylish city dwellers
who aren’t afraid of an accessory or
two, it’s an eclectic mix of vintage,
designer and high street.
Fashion students Paulina and Lauren
(top right) both combine black leather
boots with Ray-Bans for an ultra-chic
yet understated daytime look, but
Hayleigh (third from left) opts for pastel
shades with her beaded necklace and
sheepskin bolero. Tanya and Eve (first
two from left) give their own take on this
season’s headwear trend, and Maurie
keeps it casual with plimsoles, stripy
socks and oversized sunnies.
The trick is to look like you haven’t
even tried, so make sure to keep things
fresh this Spring. Play with texture,
pairing chunky wooden beads with a
silk headscarf or thick gold chains with
knitwear. You heard it here first!Paulina and Lauren, both 22, fashion students.
Eve, 25, Stylist Hayleigh, 19, beautician Maurie, 22, Waitress
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eye
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Sunglasses can change from season to season, but it's all about finding a style that suits your face shape.
Retro Super Future Mirror Sunglasses, £100
Retro Super Future Exclusive Hippy Tie Dye Sunglasses, £75 Spitfire Neon Sunglasses, £17.95
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eye spy
From aviator to flat top, visor to over-sized, there is a
sunglasses style to suit all. They can round off an outfit
with a splash of colour or give it a retro edge, but it’s
important you find a shape which compliments your
face, along with your look. Finding the perfect pair
can often seem impossible: Miss Richie and Posh can pull-off
oversized sunnies to a tee, but you end up looking like a pea
head? To make shopping for shades a little easier, just follow
our guide and find a style which works for you:
Round shaped face
If you have a round shaped face, look for styles that have
thick-set brow bars or frames that are equal to the width of
your face. Square lenses will also give your face structure and
definition, emphasising the appearance of cheekbones.
Heart shaped face
If your face is heart shaped and you have high cheek bones,
light coloured or rimless frames will look great. And remember
aviators or angular shapes will balance out a smaller chin.
Square shaped face
If you have a square face stay away from square frames, and
reduce those hard angles by choosing soft gently curved
oval or round shaped frames.
Oval shaped face
And lastly, if you’re an oval-faced beauty, oversized shades
were made for you. Be bold and daring, the bigger the
better!
From top: Rayban Wayfarer Monochrome Sunglasses, £110. Spitfire
ASOS Exclusive Candy Bar orange Sunglasses, £18.95. 55DSL Contrast
Flat Top aqua Plastic Sunglasses, £72. Retro Super Future Exclusive
Oversized purple Sunglasses, £95.
oval
round
heart
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BETSEY JOHNSON.
ACCESSORIES
betseyjohnson.com
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magpie.com spring 2009
make your own...
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MAKE YOUR OWN...
HAIRBAND1.5 metres of jersey fabric
Decorate the headband with your favourite
brooches.
Et Voilá! A hair band even Nicole Richie wouldn’t
be ashamed of getting papped in.
You will need:SCISSORS
needle and thread a selection of brooches
Cut a strip of your jersey fabric, making sure it’s
long enough to wrap around your head twice.
Stitch the two ends together to make a full circle,
then place the doubled-up fabric around your
head to make a hairband.
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Jonathon Aston LONDON
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HEADS, SHOULDERS, KNEES AND TOES, KNEES AND TOES
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lookb
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lookbook
THIS PAGE: Bow, £18, Johnny Loves Rosie and Necklace, £45, Urban Outfitters.
OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left): Headscarf, £15.99, Laura Ashley; Bowler hat, £22, Absolute Vintage and Necklace, £129, Laura Tabor; Boater Hat, £18 Absolute Vintage; Corsage, £10, Accessorize and necklace, £39, Lola Rose.
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THIS PAGE: Socks, £8.95, Celeste Stein and Mary Janes, £95, KG by Kurt Geiger.
OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left):Tights, £22, and Shoes, £45, both Urban Outfitters; Moccasin Boots, £120,
Minnetonka; Knee Socks, £7, Jonathon Aston and Shoes, £65, Topshop; Denim Leggings, £20, Topshop and Fringe Sandals, £45, Urban Outfitters.
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the
big q
uesti
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Make up
The Ultimate Accessory
NoIt’s not that I’m an au-naturale sort of girl. In fact, I never leave
the house without the aid of my trusty eyebrow pencil and three
layers of mascara (oh how I envy the dark-haired beauties who
escape the redhead curse of white eyebrows and eyelashes…)
but for me make-up is more a necessity than an accessory.
Accessories are meant to be the trimmings that can
instantly up-date, dress-up or dress-down an outfit. While I’m the
first to agree that make-up can do wonders for a girl, to claim
that it can alter the overall look of an outfit seems like a slight
overstatement. There’s only so much lipstick can do.
Over the years my make-up has developed into a standard
system and it’s difficult to see how something can something
be seen as an accessory when it remains the same every
day. Furthermore, my signature black eyeliner, lip balm and
foundation with a hint of bronzer combo hardly draw the same
compliments as a new vintage clutch or tooled belt.
On the frequent occasions I find myself, yet again, wearing
my failsafe LBD, I turn to my collection of belts, bags and bling to
put a new twist on the outfit. Everyone’s usually so distracted by
my statement necklace or on-trend bowler hat that they don’t
even notice I’m in the same frock as last week, a trick I’m sure
wouldn’t work half as well were I to rely on my MAC lipgloss alone.
Of course, I’m not denying that make-up has the ability to be
classed as an accessory- just look at Diesel’s Black Gold Spring/
Summer 09 collection where models sported pink and blue
eyebrows. But such statement make-up is rarely experimented
with by us mere mortals, and with good reason I fear. Some
trends should be left on the catwalk…
says Claire Smith
Calvin Klein SS09
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the big question
Make-up. We’ve all worn it, even if it‘s a dot of concealer in the morning to hide our tired eyes. But what about when make-up becomes more than that as an addition to an outfit. Is it possible to not only dress for success but be made-up for success? Enter the debate as two cosmetic queens battle it ask the question: Is make-up the ultimate accessory?
yesMake-up is definitely the ultimate accessory for women today.
Its so versatile, and the range of products available mean the
possibilities are endless. If your body is a blank canvas then the
make-up is the paint. I truly believe make-up can transform your
look and define your style. Clothing and the rest are just the finishing
dressing and do not decide the overall look.
Like most girls, make-up has always played a huge role in my
fashion life. It saw me through my young teen years where smoked
dark eyes and lips represented my sombre, moody rebellion.
Moving to my latter teens where overly applied make-up was used
as a ploy to hide my real tender age of seventeen. In my twenties
experiments with false eyelashes and vivid colour symbolised my fun,
wild times at university, only to finally resign at an overall natural
look. Blemish free, neutral lips and natural brown eye make-up, another
ploy, but this time to look younger than my years.
The ultimate accessory not only accentuates an outfit but also
provides an insight into the individual- a welcome convenience in
my ever jam packed day to day schedule.
From expensive, mature brands such as Estee Lauder and MAC,
to younger, more affordable brands like 17 and Rimmel, make-up
is a universal trend which is adored from teenagers to the elderly.
As with any type of fashion, new styles come and go, but make-up
can be adapted to suit the individual in a variety of different ways,
unlike other mass produced accessories.
Not only is this an accessory with infinite compositions, it can
be carried around unnoticed in your handbag for regular updates
and last minute transformations to take you from office to pub. Is
this not the role of an ultimate accessory?
says abigail richards
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Alexander McQueen SS09
Alexander McQueen SS09
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HEELS OR NO HEELS?
Now, I’m not an idiot.
I had guessed
that walking in high
heels might be a bit
different from flats
I’m a girl who loves her accessories. I can spend hours
deciding what colour scarf I want or what belt I’m going
to wear on a night out and it’s taken me years to select the
perfect shade of lipstick. But one thing I’ve never been a
fan of is high heels. It’s something my friends and countless exes
have always picked up on, but to be honest I’m tall enough as it
is without adding another 5 inches.
But it is one of those things that tends to nag away at you.
I mean, what’s the big fuss about afew extra inches? I began
to wonder if everyone else thought they were so great, wasn’t
it possible, even probable that I was missing out on something
really good. Maybe my lack of high heels was the reason I was
single in a city full of men. As I said, it was beginning to eat
away at me.
Finally, last Friday, I gave in. I had a really hot date with a guy
from my waxing place (hey, he’s just metrosexual right?) and
I wanted to stand out and make an impact. My flatmate was
adamant that high heels were the way to go.
At first I was reluctant, I mean, what difference
was making me taller going to make? But I was
weak and, under pressure, I caved.
I got dressed and strapped on a pair of my
friends black stilettos. I have to say, I did like the
way they looked from where I was sitting on the
bed. They made my legs look somehow more
feminine, more voluptuous. I was beginning to regret the many
years I had spent painstakingly avoiding these things. I decided I
would get up and have a look in the mirror. Bad idea.
Now, I’m not an idiot. I had worked out that walking in high
heels might be a bit different from flats, and I’d heard stories
about women falling over, but I was pretty sure the stories were
exaggerated. I can do my lipstick while driving and ringing my
boss to tell her I’m stuck in traffic, if I can do that then how hard
could this be?
I found out the answer to that particular question as I made my
uncoordinated and rapid journey across my flatmate’s bedroom
before colliding head-first with her dresser. To say my first attempt
was unsuccessful would be an understatement. I felt as if I’d just
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been hit in the head with a log and I was sprawled, open-
legged on my friend’s bedroom floor. My flatmate was, to be
diplomatic, unsympathetic. If we’re being undiplomatic, she
was wetting herself.
Anyway, to cut a long story short, I eventually plucked
up the courage to have another go and, with a bit of help
from my still hysterical friend, I began to make some progress.
Enough at least to feel confident enough to walk without
holding my friends arm. Things were beginning to look up.
Then I noticed the time, I had half an hour before my date
picked me up. I panicked.
There was no way I could change my shoes. I was already
wearing the outfit and I’d never find another pair of shoes
that would go with it in time. And it had taken me 15 painful
minutes just to get into the dress so there was no way that was
going to be changed. The only option was to either go with
what I had on or cancel the date. I decided to go with what I
had on. In hindsight, I now see that was probably a mistake.
He picked me up five minutes early which I liked and
held my hand while he walked me to his car. I liked that too.
Firstly because it showed he was a gentleman and secondly
because without his help I may well have free-styled into the
nearest hedge. As it was, I maintained my ladylike walk and
decorum right until we arrived at the restaurant.
It was at this moment that I was confronted with a
situation no woman enjoys, but always seems to have to
endure: we ran into his ex. To say it was awkward would
be an understatement. We were stood 3 yards away in the
line for a table and it took 10 minutes before either of them
would admit they had seen one another. They exchanged
polite hellos and then my date introduced me. Focused on
maintaining decorum and composure I forgot about the
shoes. I lent forward to shake her hand.
Wham. Next thing I know I’ve fallen flat on my face and
one of my flailing arms has caught the woman straight in the
mouth. My date is looking at me with a look that can only be
described as amused disgust. His ex is crying. I know the date
is ruined, I just want to slink back to my apartment and not
come out for a week. Unfortunately the restaurant security
team has other ideas.
Kicking up a storm worthy of the arrest of a serial killer,
I was grabbed by both arms and swung into the air. In my
surprise I kick out, no doubt adding to the drama of the whole
situation. My hair is a mess and my dress is hitched up over
my bum showing off beautifully the body-shaping pants I
have worn on the date. To the excited onlookers, I must have
looked absolutely frenzied. I was forcefully ejected from
the restaurant and told by a man, who looked a bit like an
overweight Mr T, that I was banned for life.
To add insult to injury, I’ve now heard my hot date bought
his ex dinner to say sorry and they’ve ended up getting back
together. I think it’s fair to say that’s the end of my relationship
with high heels.
“Wham. Next thing I know I’ve fallen flat on my
face”
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PHOTOGRAPHER: CLAIRE SMITHMODEL: SOPHIE PRESSSTYLING: SARAH WELLSMAN
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Bangles, from a selection at ModCloth.
PREVIOUS PAGE: Bag, £32, Urban Outfitters
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THIS PAGE: Earrings, £10, Urban Outfitters;
Necklace, £45, All Saints.
OPPOSITE: Scarf, £15 ,Rokit
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focus
36
What one item from your wardrobe
could you not live without?
A denim bag I found in a vintage shop,
it’s hand-made and has the cutest red
and white polka-dot lining. It’s quite
roomy too, with lots of pockets, so it’s
great to use as an everyday bag.
What do you turn to when you’re having
a wardrobe dilemma?
I’ll usually throw on a Tshirt dress if I don’t
know what to wear, but my ankle boots
from Tokyo are my secret weapon; they
can make even the most boring of
outfits look edgy.
What is your most prized possession?
A brooch that my Grandmother gave
me when I was about six. I wear it with
absolutely everything; on handbags,
scarves, I even attached it to some
fabric to make a belt.
Who is your celebrity style icon?
I think Alexa Chung always looks
amazing. She wears quite simple
clothes, but always manages to make
them look quirky with her accessories
and layered jewellery.
What’s on your wish-list?
I’m watching a vintage Chanel
handbag on eBay at the moment. I’m
not one for designer ‘It’ bags, as they go
out of fashion so quickly, but a Chanel
handbag is a classic.
What can a girl never have enough of?
I know most girls would say shoes, but
I’ve got a real thing for hair-accessories.
I’ve collected so many over the years,
from antique hair combs to great big
eighties-style bows. They’re a great way
to update your outfits and make your
look stand out from the crowd.
“My ankle boots
from tokyo make
even the most
boring outfits
look edgy”
In the c loset wi th...
Janette CoalterA 21-YEAR-OLD STUDENT FROM Northern Ireland
Clockwise: Janette with her wardrobe; her favourite vintage bag; her failsafe ankle boots from Tokyo
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focus
breaking the mould
With her quirky use of materials and unique creations, jewellery designer,Kirstie Maclaren, is taking the world of accessories by storm.
Kirstie basks in the sunshine outside her workshop
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39
focus
Kirstie Maclaren is perched
on a stool in her workshop,
surrounded by an unusual
assortment of bits and pieces.
To her left sits a row of jam jars, a rainbow
spectrum of vibrant coloured liquid. To
her right are endless bundles of wool,
cotton, felt and fabric, and various
spools of metal and copper wire. Her
fingers are stained berry red and purple;
the colour is so deep it looks as though
they may remain that shade for months
to come.
This little outhouse at the end of the
garden is where she says she spends
most of her time, it’s where she “gets
creative”. Pushing the boundaries of
jewellery design and experimenting
with new methods is what her work is all
about. It’s plain to see she has always
had a rebelliously creative streak for
doing things a bit differently.
Magpie: What do you love about
designing jewellery?
Kirstie Maclaren: I love that it can be
art, I enjoy pushing boundaries with
the realms of ‘wearable’ jewellery.
Practicality isn’t always necessary!
M: Where did your passion stem from?
KM: I have always loved exploring,
picking up bits and bobs and collecting
little things that catch my eye. I get
bored of what’s available on the high
street, so I have always bought my
accessories from vintage shops or on
eBay, or made them myself. I loved
art and textiles at school, so went on
to do a Jewellery BA Hons degree at
Middlesex University. I’ve just graduated
and can’t wait to develop my own style
even further.
M: What materials do you enjoy working
with the most?
KM: At the moment, I would say fabric
- mostly cotton and felt, although I still
haven’t decided what materials are
my favourite. I’m still discovering new
methods all the time, most of my work is
trial and error and experimentation.
M: What inspires your designs?
KM: I hate to sound crafty but nature
really does inspire me, but not in a
traditional organic way. I’m particularly
interested in natural dyes at the
moment, and human interaction within
nature. One of my projects sparked
from the idea of blackberry picking
and the colour left on your fingers
afterwards. I then started looking at fruit
and natural dyes and began staining
various materials with an assortment of
colours, including beetroot, carrot and
lime. I think people get caught up in
the fact that jewellery should be dainty
and sparkling clean, but I’m trying to
challenge that.
M: How do you come up with a creative
concept for a design?
KM: Most of my ideas begin with
research. I love to travel, and I’m always
taking plenty of snaps, these give me
all kinds of inspiration. I prefer fashion
magazines to looking at jewellery books,
as they are always changing and up to
date. I often refer to architecture and
graphic design magazines too.
M: Do you prefer form and design over
function?
KM: I think both are very important, and
you should try to get a balance. How I
work varies depending on what material
I’m using. Sometimes the design is very
important in order for something to work
or function properly. Whereas some of
my pieces have no function at all and
I am more interested in how the wearer
interacts with my pieces.
M: What are your plans for the future?
KM: I hope to own my own jewellery
shop in the future, so I can be my own
boss and not have to design within any
boundaries. My plan is to first travel
around Europe for inspiration, so I can
combine an eclectic mix of influences
into my designs and source new ideas. I
have such a passion for what I do, it will
never feel like work to me, I just hope
other people get what I’m trying to do.
I hate to sound crafty but nature really does inspire
me. one of my projects sparked from the idea of
blackberry picking and the colour left
on your fingers.
“
”
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Kirstie wearing one of her blackberry creations
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38
focus
2009 has seen Lady Gaga burst on to the pop scene
with her first two singles ‘Just Dance’ and ‘Poker Face’
souring in the charts. but, despite her music success,
the artist is best known for her public image and risque
fashion choices, Not to mention those bows!Lad
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Lady Gaga, formerly known
as Stefani Joanne Angelina
Germanotta, hasn’t always
been so outspoken in the fashion
department. Previously a more
subdued brunette, the transformation
to platinum blonde seemed to mark
her transition to pop diva. Not content
with just producing great music, the
current artist views her performance
as a whole, and it’s clear that image is
high on her list of priorities. Gaga says:
“When I’m writing music, I’m thinking
about the clothes I want to wear on
stage. It’s about everything altogether —
performance,art, fashion.”
Many have criticized the star for her
skin-tight, bum-skimming outfits, but
the star strongly defends her quirky,
eccentric style. With such little clothing
the Lady often lets her accessories do
the talking for her. One statement piece
that seems to have defined the star is
the oversized bow often worn in her hair.
This is often fashioned out of her own
locks, but increasingly we are seeing this
iconic piece replicated in stores on the
highstreet and even on catwalks.
Her ensembles of outlandish hair
pieces, leather gloves and statement
sunglasses, whether rain or shine, have
made the star fashion’s new muse. With
Peggy Bundy and Donatella Versace
as fashion icons her look is anything but
minimal. “I look at those as icons in art.
It’s not just about the music. It’s about
the performance, the attitude, the
look; it’s everything. And, that is where I
live as an artist and that is what I want
to accomplish.” A style icon in her own
right, Lady Gaga may be controversial,
but she sure knows how to have fun.
“When I’m writing music I’m thinking about the clothes I want to wear
on stage. It ’s all about
everything together -
performance. art.
fashion.”
Playing with the paparazzi in London
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Her wild, theatrical, and often tongue-
in-cheek “shock art” performances are
always mirrored in the outfits she wears.
Always at the cutting edge of fashion
her outfits are less than practical for the
everyday working woman. However,
inspiration can be taken from her
choice of accessories. Accessories have
become hugely emphasised in current
fashion with lavish textured headbands
and jewelled corsages becoming main
statement pieces. From Gaga bows to
sequined flowers, they’re everywhere
in high street stores, or can be found in
smaller boutiques for a more original
quirky twist.
So, whether you love or hate the Lady,
you cannot ignore her. Her aversion
to wearing a top and bottoms at the
same time may leave her looking bare
but she certainly makes up for this in the
accessory stakes.
Her flamboyant overindulgence in
jewellery, hair pieces and sunglasses are
often theatrical and stage like, but this is
what has defined the star and seems to
make her a major influence in the world
of pop culture.
“I look at those artists
as icons in art. It’s not
just about the music. It’s
about the performance,
the attitutde, the look,
it’s everything. And that
is where I live as an
artist and that is what
I want to accomplish.”
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TIGI ®
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URBANOUTFITTERS
LONDON COPENHAGEN STOCKHOLMHAMBURG NEW YORK LOS ANGELESBOSTON SEATTLE TORONTO MOTREAL
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alongside modern designers’ interpretations of hat styles like
the tricorn, bowler and even baseball cap.
The showcase the continues through to Creation- a novel
space set up as a milliner’s workroom and filled with traditional
patterns, materials and millinery blocks that reveal how the
art of bespoke hat-making has remained virtually unchanged
over the past century.
The Salon section of the exhibition relates to the ‘salon’
environment, based on that of the haute couture fashion
houses which became popular with hat designers in at the
beginning of the 20th Century wanting to create an exclusive
environment for their clientele.
It is the client that Jones focuses on in the final part of the
exhibition as, he explains: “They are the ones to ultimately
give the hat its life and launch it into the world.”
From Victoria and Albert’s headgear to the Phillip Traecy
floral construction donned by SJP at the Sex and the City
premiere, Hats: An Anthology provides an insightful look into
the mysterious world of hats that we’ve come to love, fear
and be fascinated by.
00
It used to be the case that an outfit was nothing without
its co-ordinating hat, bag and shoes but nowadays,
while the latter two still remain highly coveted, the hat
has drifted almost into obscurity.
With the exception of the odd eccentric fashionista,
hats rarely creep into our wardrobes anymore unless there’s
wedding bells ringing.
But, despite this sad fact, the V&A’s new exhibition
‘Hats: An Anthology’, is anything but an obituary to the
demise of headwear in society; rather, it is a celebration
of the significant role in which hats have played in some of
histories most iconic moments.
The exhibition is curated by one of the world’s most
prominent milliners, Stephen Jones, and features hats from
Ancient Egyptian times right up to present day.
The oldest in the collection is a linen and papyrus hat
featuring the Jackal-headed Egyptian god, Anubis, of
which Jones says:
“It’s in marvellous condition considering it’s 2,600 years
old, it’s what I based a headdress on for the spring/summer
Dior couture show in 2004.”
After travelling the world for two years, and examining
over 7,000 hats to select the lucky 300 that made the cut,
Jones says the final exhibition exemplifies the varying roles of
the hat as a tribal and social necessity, military prerequisite
and fashion phenomena.
The exhibition has been arranged to guide you through
the lifecycle of a hat, from inspiration and creation to the
salon and, finally, the client.
The first section, Inspiration, demonstrates how history
has affected modern design with inclusions such as Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert’s bonnet and black topper set
THE LATE, ICONIC ISABELLA BLOW WEARING A PHILLIP TRAECY CREATION
45
culture
HATS: AN ANTHOLOGY BY STEPHEN JONES AT THE V&A24 FEB – 31 MAY 2009
From sacred masks to modern masterpieces, the famous milliner takes us on a timeline of head wear through the ages
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46
cultu
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Jewellery as art
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cultureart is defined as having no other
purpose than itself. enter the debate,
is fashion art?
Fashion, like art, may be
approached in terms of
style, attribution and the
accurate dating of artefacts.
The similarities cannot be denied,
but the step from similar to identical
is a significant one. A top, however
aesthetically pleasing it may be, cannot
be said to have any function other than
itself. Which introduces the question,
what about accessories?
In a consumer driven society where
want has become need, are accessories
bought for function or
fashion? What it boils
down to is accessories
sell themselves by
being pretty and
are by no means
a necessity, much
like art. Therefore, is
this not just another
medium for an artist to
express themselves?
For instance, the most
recent collection of
jewellery designer
Giselle Ganne is an expression of the
emotion of mourning. Her use of colours,
textures and shapes within her jewellery
are all designed to evoke the emotion
of ‘Gloomy’. Is this so different to the
intention of Edgar Degas’ in his painting
‘The Absinthe Drinker’? In this sense at
least, is a designer not an artist?
Regardless of whether fashion and
art are one, art is certainly a major
influence and has been for many years.
Even in the 1930s fashion designers
and artists were running in the same
circles and even collaborated on some
projects. The most famous of which
being Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador
Dali, who shocked critics with their
unique and daring designs.
The fusion of fashion and art has
definitely not stopped there with famous
artists and art movements continuing
Get yoursto grace fashion items. Andy Warhol
is just one artist who has noticeably
had an influence with his pop art prints
adorning everything from handbags to
socks. However, the most prominent art
movements to be replicated in fashion
accessories are that of Art Nouveau
and Art Deco.
These 20th century French art
movements have made a significant
difference in the trends of jewellery
design. Both the gentle feminine, floral
lines of art nouveau and contrasting
sharp angular
edges of Art Deco
have influenced
the fashion world.
Art Deco especially
seems to be
dominating this
seasons accessories.
Lara Bohic is just
one of the designers
who has created
jewellery that some
say can only be
described as art,
with a combination of architectural
shapes, Art Deco influences and elegant
timeless design. Hollywood also has its
own visual timeline of artistic influence
on its jewellery, and this a progressive
tendency that has only increased.
I suppose, looking at all the factors,
some accessories and therefore some
fashion could be defined as art. But
to do so takes something away from
fashion itself. In fact, when you delve
below the surface, you discover that
there is no need to compare the two.
The intricate entwinement of the art and
fashion worlds mean analysis is useless.
The bottom line is, whether you believe
fashion is art, or even art is fashion, as
with all things the boundaries are not
black and white and these worlds will
continue to cross paths, the important
thing is that we all enjoy wearing it.
“Both the gentle
feminine, floral lines
of art nouveau and
contrasting sharp
angular edges of art
deco have influenced
the fashion world”
Junk Jewels, £22
Perfectly Vintage, £34
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magpie.com
BESTOF
Photographed by Bella HowardStylist: Lucy AscotHair: Leon Gorman using RedkenMake-up: Tina Bantry using MACModel: Naomi at Elite
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Union jack scarf, £58, Paul & Joe.
Denim Corset bra, £26, Urban Outfitters.
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Studded leather clutch, £105, All Saints.
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Geometric print scarf, £39, Urban Outfitters. Studded leather sinny belt, £22, Rokit.
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Snake gladiator heels, £95, Emma Cook for Topshop.
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spring 2009
shhh
h!
Spanish Moss vintageeBay has never been cooler...he ultimate online market place, eBay,
has always been a Mecca for vintage
fans, but sifting through the trash for
hidden treasure can be time consuming.
So here at Magpie we’ve unearthed a
little gem which does all the hard work
for you, it’s almost too good to share!
Spanish Moss Vintage, an eBay
boutique based in the US, adds 40
stunning new vintage pieces to the
site each week. Ranging from mod to
bohemian, disco to hippy, there are
plenty of items worthy of an up-all-night
bidding war.
Well-organised, well-stocked and
reasonably priced, Spanish Moss
doesn’t disappoint on any level. With a
full measurement chart for each item,
and endless high quality photos, you’ll
have no nasty surprise when you open
up that parcel.
Suzanne Carafano, the shop’s
creator, makes it her mission to find the
best vintage accessories from all over
the United States:
“Where I find my pieces is the closest
kept secret in the industry, but I always
make sure they are great garments and
accessories which have already stood
the test of time.”
With a vintage stock now too large
to sell on eBay, Spanish Moss Vintage
will be launching a new website in
May 2009, selling 400 stunning vintage
items, along with Suzanna, an exclusive
vintage inspired accessories line.
“The range will be designed and
produced in downtown Los Angeles,
previewing on May 6th. There will also be
a blog to keep customers updated on
the latest street style and runway trends,
art, literature, music and progressive
culture, written by carefully selected
Fashionistas and LA ‘IT’ girls.”
Well, what are you waiting for? Grab
that vintage bargain while you can!tW
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Spanish Moss vintage
cobrasnake.com
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Vivienne WestwoodACCESSORIES
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