The One Piece Block All the patterns on this site are based on blocks (aka slopers in the USA). The women’s one piece block is the basis for all women’s swimwear and dancewear. With a one piece block you can make as many different patterns and designs as you can imagine. That makes it a pretty powerful object, so you need to make sure it’s right by testing it on a full one piece pattern before assuming it works and proceeding to cut hundreds of patterns. The technique below should work well for bust sizes between 80cm and 94cm with minimal tweaking. Beyond this you may need some more tweaking as there is considerably more variation in shape for the same actual size. As such I don’t recommend making your first block for sizing over 94cm bust. The process for drafting the one piece block is fairly straight forward if handled in bite size steps. Before you start each step, look carefully at the illustration for that step as it will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration. If it doesn’t go back to the start of that step and work your way through again. I’ve drafted this example block as a size 10B/C using 12% horizontal negative ease and 0% vertical ease. The way to write this on the block is ’88/100′ meaning the block is 88% of the natural horizontal and 100% of the natural vertical. This is usually referred to as the reduction ratio. I still prefer to call it negative ease as opposed to reduction, because sometimes you may have both positive and negative ease in the same garment. Of course if you’re drafting a custom block then substitute my measurements for your own. Step One
Transcript
The One Piece BlockAll the patterns on this site are based on blocks (aka slopers in the USA). The women’s one piece block is the basis for all women’s swimwear and dancewear. With a one piece block you can make as many different patterns and designs as you can imagine. That makes it a pretty powerful object, so you need to make sure it’s right by testing it on a full one piece pattern before assuming it works and proceeding to cut hundreds of patterns. The technique below should work well for bust sizes between 80cm and 94cm with minimal tweaking. Beyond this you may need some more tweaking as there is considerably more variation in shape for the same actual size. As such I don’t recommend making your first block for sizing over 94cm bust.
The process for drafting the one piece block is fairly straight forward if handled in bite size steps. Before you start each step, look carefully at the illustration for that step as it will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration. If it doesn’t go back to the start of that step and work your way through again.
I’ve drafted this example block as a size 10B/C using 12% horizontal negative ease and 0% vertical ease. The way to write this on the block is ’88/100′ meaning the block is 88% of the natural horizontal and 100% of the natural vertical. This is usually referred to as the reduction ratio. I still prefer to call it negative ease as opposed to reduction, because sometimes you may have both positive and negative ease in the same garment. Of course if you’re drafting a custom block then substitute my measurements for your own.
1-2 Square down nape to waist measurement. Square across the page from points 1 and 2.
2-3 Square down waist to crotch. Square across the page from 3.
1-4 Square down 2cm to point 4. Square across the page from 4.
3-5 Square down half gusset measurement to point 5. Square across 7cm to point 6 +/- 3mm per size from size 10.
3-7 1/4 natural hip. Square up to point 8. The hip measurement is not reduced by 12% as the swimsuit does not wrap around the leg.
3-9 1/8th natural hip plus 1cm.
2-10 1/4 waist measurement x 0.88 (reduction of 12%). Join point 7 to point 10. Mark point 11 halfway along this line. Create a curve to connect points 6 to 9 and 11.
Step Two
7-12 1/4 natural hip (same as 3-7). Square up to points 13 and 14.
12-15
Square across 3.5cm from point 12 to 15 +/- 1.7mm per size from size 10.
12-16
Square down 9.5cm from point 12 to 16. +/- 3.5mm per size from size 10
16-17
Square across 7cm from point 16 to 17 +/- 3mm per size from size 10.
14-18
1/4 waist measurement x 0.88 (reduction of 12%). Join point 7 to point 18. Mark point 19 halfway along this line.
19-20
Square across from point 19. Mark point 20 at 1/3rd along this line. Create a curve to connect Points 17, 15, 20 and 19. Once the block is cut out, the leg curves can be trued up. Leg curves are purely a style choice and can be moved once you know what you’re doing.
Step Three
13-21
1/4 bust x 0.88 + 1.5cm. Square down to waist line. The 1.5cm is added to the front block and removed from the back block to move the side seam more toward its natural position. If you are designing for a larger cup size on the block you may want to move the side seam back a little more. 1.5cm is about right for a 10B/C.
1-22 1/4 bust x 0.88 – 1.5cm. Square down to waist line.
14-23
Waist to bust. Square across from point 23 to point 24. Join point 18 to point 24.
23-BP
½ Bust separation x 0.88. Draw a line from Bust Point to point 25 which is square to line 18-24. This is the bust dart position.
24-26
Mark point 26 3cm up from point 24. Square across block and mark in point 27. Join point 10 to point 27.
Step Four
13-28
1/6th neck measurement.
13-29
1/6th neck measurement. Draw in front neck curve. Joint point 29 to BP.
1-32 1/6th neck measurement. Draw in back neck curve. Draw a line shoulder width x 0.88 to meet the line squared across from point 4. Mark the intersection as point
33. Draw down a line square to line 32-33 from point 33.
29-30
Draw a line shoulder width x 0.88 to meet a line squared across from point 33. Mark the intersection as Point 30. Trace the line shown in red onto a new sheet of paper.
29-31
Draw in point 31 the dart width from point 29.
Step Five
Rotate the traced section as shown. Draw down a line square to line 31-30 from point 30. Draw in armhole curves as shown. The armholes curves can be trued up after the block is cut out. Draw in side seams as smooth curves.
Rotate the front shoulder section shown in red back to the neckline so as to re-open the bust dart at the side seam. The rotation should be centered on the bust point. Mark in the bust line position on the back block by measuring up from the waist line, along the side seam to the bottom of the bust dart. If you’re wondering why the front and back armholes have ended up a different length take a look at the section on making the sleeve block.
Remove unnecessary guidelines, points and numbers. Cut out or retrace the front and back blocks and true up all curves. Make sure you clearly label your block with a title, panel name, size, date, author’s name and version number. Do not add seam allowance to the block!
First of all, I would like to thank you for providing the all this useful information. I, however, have a couple of questions. It would be great to get your answer. First, if I need to have a lower leg cut, should I start adding the 12% negative ease to the hip measurement? I would imagine it depends on how low the cut is, so how to figure out how much to reduce the measurement as you go lower.The second question is about the middle of the back. If I want to have a seam in the back (for example to insert a zipper), would it be ok to have a straight cut in the middle? I saw commercial patterns that have a curved back if there is a seam in the back. Can you explain how to make this curve? I’m asking this because the suit will be used for dancewear where a person’s body is usually bent backwards. I would like to minimize the amount of folds this would produce (especially if there is a zipper). It seems that making a curve in the middle of the back piece is a good idea in this case.Thanks in advance for you reply!
StuartSeptember 10, 2010 at 9:07 am
I’m still disappeared .. just doing maintenance and a few replies only. I really need to see what you’ve done … don’t really want to guess …. could you perhaps take a photo?
KirstySeptember 8, 2010 at 2:47 pm
Hi Stuart, thank you for not disappearing for too long, it’s great to have you back again )I like what you’ve done to the site too, great new look!Going back to my previous comment about “minor adjustment of the shoulder to bust length on the pattern (arm hole was an odd shape and very small?)”, what sort of more info would be useful? (I’m still in the land of the dinosaurs using pencil and paper to do my pattern so can’t attached a file)Many thanks for your help
StuartAugust 8, 2010 at 12:42 pm
Hi Kirsty. I find the shelf bra a very useful concept for moderate bust sizes … it’s really just an empire line! If you’ve made the block from the person’s measurements then there really shouldn’t be an issue with back length??? I’m wondering if you arent dealing with a deeper or shallower sway back… or perhaps a low waist? More info would be useful
KirstyAugust 7, 2010 at 11:38 am
Hi Stuart, thank you for your feedback about the bigger bust I am very pleased to say the block sample fitted extremely well, with a minor adjustment of the shoulder to bust length on the pattern (arm hole was an odd shape and very small?), I found the only adjustment on the physical sample was taking a wedge from the bum to descrease back length (she is short waisted). With short waisted people is there any important pattern
adjustments I should make? And I wonder what you think of shelf bras in swimsuits? I am thinking of using this as a form of “soft” support. Thank you in advance for your help
StuartAugust 2, 2010 at 11:09 am
Hi Kirsty,I make the block to their measurements as a one piece block whilst they’re wearing a bra in the position they’d like to end up (I need an accurate bust point/height) … then no tweaking for bust size is usually needed at the block level. You would of course be adding a little extra vertical height for things like empire lines, etc. The real problem is, and I know I’m about to contradict myself, building a one piece block with no obvious bust support for someone with a larger bust … the block itself is useless for anything but a first step toward a more supporting pattern. Unless the bust is self supporting (eg; implants) you’re going to have to look at empire lines or undrewires and as such the bust section is nothing more than the appropriate dart amount …. but you have to start somewhere.
HelenJuly 23, 2010 at 2:05 am
Andrew,I think the explanation to your problem with point number 3 is easier if you look at the anatomy of a woman body. The hip mesurement is rouly situated around the crotch area and usually includes buttocks. As I remember myself younger that was not the case (it was sligtly higher). But as I look at more mature women the actual him mesurement is below the illiac bone(Points 11 & 19). In men, the hips are more developed around illiac bone wile it stays relatively same as you descend to the bottock line. To better illustrate that i found an anatomical skeleton-silhouette imae on which I marked in red women hip line and in men in blue.Please correct me if I’m wrong…
AndrewJuly 22, 2010 at 2:18 am
Hi Stuart, I hope you had a wonderful wedding!About this block… I noticed point 3 is placed below the waist line by the waist to crotch distance, but all the measurements across from it are based on the hip circumference. Since the line through point 3 appears to be at crotch-height, why is it called the ‘hip line’?My guess (because I may as well!) is that where the body flares below the waist the fabric doesn’t hang straight down – it slants outward a bit instead, and then inward again. So although we measured waist to crotch distance, it ends up somewhat higher, at about hip-height.Well, this question makes it pretty clear I’m not in the professional audience you’re aiming at – but thank you for your generosity and beautiful website!
Hi Stuart, firstly congrats and all the best for the big day Secondly (maybe someone who does made-to measure swimwear might be able to answer this one) when making a one piece block for a someone with a larger cup size (ie D or D/D) do you base your block on the nearest size then tweak for the larger cup or just draft for the bust measurement? which way would work the best?(measurements I’m using are bust 91 underbust 73 waist 70 hips 94 n-w 33 w-w 74 in centimetres)Thank you for any advice in advance
SahmaJune 28, 2010 at 6:04 pm
I posted a question on the 70′s square leg design and i think alot of the problems came from my drafting of the leg line. I drafted the 10 block as per your 16-17 and 5-6 (7cm) i have compared this with the block patterns from my fashion school and there is a huge difference there width is about 5cm including a seam allowance. I wanted to uses your instructions so that i can allways make a block and know where the bust point is, The pattern blocks from my school are with the maximum stretch up and down the body not around, This really is conflicting issue for me as i know you instruct it around the body and this other professional i know advises the same and she suggeted that it would sagg when wet. I don’t want this i want to make amazing swimwear for fashion and surfing in. I have to much fabric in the bottom area and i have a width of 14cm not including seam allowance is the correct or can i shave it back a few cm or is it the way i am drafting the curves through 11,9,6 because the front looks okay
StuartJune 22, 2010 at 12:30 pm
Laura … it’s here
LauraJune 21, 2010 at 2:26 pm
Hi Stuart,When you say “Draw in point 31 the dart width from point 29″.. where or how do I find the dart width to place point 31 along line 1 – 13 on the tracing paper?Sorry and thank you in advance!Laura
Hi Obbie, i would need to see a copy of your pattern and the measurements used to create it. There is usually a problem somewhere in either the measurement used or the person’s interpretation of the instructions … I obviously can’t guess, but it’s pretty easy to see where someone has gone wrong when I’m looking at the pattern. If you can email me the pattern and measurements I’ll be happy to take a look for you.
ObbieJune 15, 2010 at 8:25 pm
I have tried your method, but the fromt sideseam must not be equal to the back sideseam as you can easily see that from the deeper slope of the front than the back side seam. Even the rotated dart move up the front side seam doesn’t reduce its length. Pls advise.
StuartJune 12, 2010 at 7:13 pm
There is absolutely no need for them to line up … the seam line is really an arbitrary position. I actually like to see the front panel be a bit longer than the back so the seam sits flatter on the shelf. Some people like it much further back but I think that makes it uncomfortable when sitting iff you have a seam lump at the fold over leg elastic. Some people like it more forward. It’s entirely up to you.When you do the leggings block it’s irrelevant of where these sit …. you can move a bit from front to back on the block to match point 1-4 as instructed if you’re proceeding to the gymnast style so all the seams line up, but again that’s not essential. Seam positions are always up to you … you can take from one side and place on another as you feel necessary.
mikkiJune 12, 2010 at 6:45 pm
Hi Stuart – thanks for earlier reply – another question pleasei have drawn 2 blocksone from your data size 10 and one from actual measurements from a girl i am going to use to try garmets onon both blocks i have found that on the bottom half gusset line the front panel is lower ie not in line with the rear panel.i checked again, but as point “3 to 5″ is a calculation and “12 to 16″ is a figure then i can see it is possible for them to extend to different points.what puzzles me is when i have gone to other patterns to move on, eg the band side brief and the leggings block, in your examples, (when you overlay the front and back panel in band side brief, and when you draw down point 1to4, 1/3 waist to floor in leggings block) you show the same distance from waist line to bottom line, is mine correct/acceptable/wrong?thanks mikki
Hi Mikki, the 14cm across the seam is not the narrowest point of the crotch! The seam is the back of the gusset, not the center of it … you will not see it from the front at all … it’ll be at the base ot the cheeks from behind.
StuartJune 11, 2010 at 3:51 pm
Hi Ellen. Even though I don’t tend to use negative vertical ease in my pattern, I still expect the fabric to stretch vertically during movement. This is the big catch that most people forget … just because the pattern has no negative vertical ease, doesn’t mean you only need a horizontal stretch fabric … that’s simply not true. When you stretch an item horizontally it will shrink vertically … so it must allow for this. A fabric that only stretches on the horizontal may well need POSITIVE ease added to the vertical! Personally I don’t use one way stretches anymore as there is such a good variety of 2 ways available … but as you’ve already chosen yours you’ll need to see how much it shrinks vertically when you stretch it to, say, 10% (max) horizontally … if it shrinks 3-5% I’d say you’ll need at least that much plus a fraction more in the positive direction … the pattern will look very odd indeed.
Excellent question though!!
EllenJune 11, 2010 at 8:37 am
I have a question about the ease that you calculate. I bought a stretchy knit fabric with spandex in it. It’s a very drapey fabric that is used to make dresses sometimes. It’s thin and very similar to the fabric sold as swimwear fabric.I notice that you add the horizontal negative ease because the fabric will stretch horizontally, and that you didn’t add any vertical ease. My fabric does stretch a little vertically, so should I try to calculate the percent and work that into my one piece block? And, if so, do you have any suggestions on how to do that?I want to sew a halter top tankini swimsuit top for myself. We’ll see how it goes.
mikkiJune 11, 2010 at 7:21 am
Hi Stuart – great site – maybe a daft question as no-one else has asked, but on the“16-17 Square across 7cm from point 16 to 17 ”and also on point “5 to 6″as the pattern is folded and so when open it will be doubled, does this mean that the gusset will be 14cm wide when looking from the front?it just seems a lot, nearly 6″, as i am about to make one, so am just going over the pattern again?thanks – mikki
StuartJune 8, 2010 at 3:41 pm
Setara, I’m not going to be able to help with this unless I can see the pattern and the measurement that went in to making it. Usually a shoulder dart that won’t close is due
to the BP being in the wrong place or the waist to bust measurement being taken from the wrong place. If you could email the measurements and pattern to me then I’ll take a quick look for you.
SetaraJune 7, 2010 at 5:19 am
Hello Stuart,I had posted before about having problems with this block, and I thought my problems with the height of the block would be fixed when you informed me I was taking the nape to waist measurement wrong. I’ve corrected this and am now working on a one-piece block for myself, but I’m running into the same problem as before.The problem is with the top of the block, from the bustline to the shoulderline. It’s simply too short. I’ve measured my nape to waist as 14.75 inches, and my waist to bust as 7.75 inches. My line 29-BP ends up being only about 7 inches, whereas on my body the shoulder to bust point line measures 10-11 inches. As I draft, my top portion of my block seems to be compressed. The armhole is impossibly short and it just looks so short in comparison to the rest of the block. In the past I just slashed and seperated the block about 2 inches for a lack of a better idea. I’m just wondering if this is necessary. I’ve checked and rechecked my steps, but this is the 3rd set of measurements I’ve tried and the problem is the same.In the meantime I will continue with this block and make a muslin, maybe the problem is only on paper…Thanks for all your help,Setara
StuartMay 19, 2010 at 4:34 pm
Hi Chantelle. It seems to me there may well be a problem with where you have the BP sitting on your block. Generally speaking, the larger the cup size the wider the dart, but also the further the BP sits from the center front. This is usually where misalignment occurs when closing the dart. I’m happy to check your work if you want to email me the block and your measurements.
ChantelleMay 19, 2010 at 1:38 pm
Hi StuartThanks so much for providing this. However I am afraid I have a question and hopefully it is not too much of a stupid one. I have completed the one peice block and am now tweaking it to reflect a bigger bust. Firstly I have calculated the new dart width and applied this to point 29-31. Then I have gone onto rotate the traced section. However now when i rotate the tracing page to meet point 31, the line 31 to BP falls outside line 1-13 and therfore does not meet point 31 exactly as it had before when I drafted the block on the basis of the size 12 dart width? Im unsure if there was something else I need to tweak before continuing the one peice block steps and the other tweaking steps.Many thanks again for you time and help.Chantelle
“Square Across” means to draw a line at right angles to the vertical center back line you’ve just drawn … it’s not a fixed distance at this point … it’s just across the page. You’ll determine it’s length later in the process. Hope this helps.
kimMarch 25, 2010 at 3:33 pm
Hi,I’m new to the site but I love it already. Just for clarification tho, what is meant when u say “sSquare across the page from points 1 and 2.” How do you know how long to make this line? I’m sorry if this seem remedial.
LauraMarch 15, 2010 at 2:56 pm
Thank you for your input and your great site. They have been a great help.
StuartMarch 15, 2010 at 12:07 pm
Hi Laura. 23-BP is half bust point to bust point. Some call it BP to BP others call it bust separation but it means the same thinf. It should represent where you wish the position of bust point on the body to be … ie; while wearing a bra if you intend to use some form of bra in your final pattern or without a bra if its a plain tanksuit without even a shelf bra underneath … but wherever you decide you want it to be, you must be able to hold the bust in this position in the final garment. Most people simply measure BP to BP while wearing a comfy bra … if they need one to maintain bust heigthen take note, if they don’t then the bra probably wont make too much difference.
LauraMarch 12, 2010 at 3:31 pm
Stuart Can you please explain to me the 23 to BP entry to me. I hope this isn’t a dumb question but I am new to pattern drafting. I also have questions not pertaining to this block. Where can I ask them.
I appreciate your help and thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge!
StuartMarch 10, 2010 at 1:02 pm
The example block was designed to work with a fairly generic 180-190gsm 85% nylon/15% lycra. I use Carvico 384 matt nylon lycra for general swimwear and the shiny stuff for dancewear.
LeahMarch 10, 2010 at 9:11 am
Hi Stuart,Actually, I have yet to select my fabric….as I have not quite gotten to that phase of my production. Right now I am just trying to learn the process of stretch-fit pattern drafting (and Illustrator). I built my one-piece block to the same specifications as yours in the example. So for this practice round, I guess I need to work with the same fabric that you intended this block to be used for. Once I select the fabric I intend to use for production, I will redraft my block. Can you advise me on which fabric I should use to test the practice block I made?Thanks again,Leah
StuartMarch 8, 2010 at 10:00 am
Hi Leah, there is no problem asking questions … you should use the same lycra you designed the block to be used with! I’m really hoping you selected your lycrabefore you started designing your one piece block so you could test it for stretch first and decide what amounts of negative ease to use. If not you might want to readhttp://www.patternschool.com/?page_id=12.
LeahMarch 7, 2010 at 10:23 am
Hi Stuart,Sorry for all the questions….When testing my block pattern, typically what is the best weight lycra to use?Many many thanks for your help!
StuartMarch 4, 2010 at 10:27 am
Leah, simple … try it on someone … if you’re doing ready to wear you can still test on a model whose size is closest to your standard size and then check the differences between her measurements and your standard are properly accounted for. I always
recommend testing a block by making it into a basic pattern with seam allowance and some way to get in an out (eg; cut the neck hole a bit lower front and back just enough to get in). You should be able to do it ok without lining but you should apply elastic where required to get the overall tensions in the right place.
LeahMarch 4, 2010 at 6:59 am
Hi Stuart,How do you suggest we test our one piece block pattern to see if it is well done or needs any adjustments?
PeteFebruary 12, 2010 at 3:16 am
Hi Stuart,I found your site over a year back and I have learned so much. First I tried to copy the patterns, but later I found out it was better to do my own, because we have somewhat different measurements in Finland. And they do not go together with many other European measurements. Basically Finnish measurements are Scandinavian (that’s H&M for the rest of the world, haha).I started sewing about two years ago, although I have been somewhat interested in clothing for much longer. I was just too insecure to tread the paths of “women’s hobbies”.Anyway, I have found your tutorial very useful also when using non-stretch: how to take the measurements, how to use them, so on. Now I’m finishing tae kwon do suits for my kids (6yo girl and 3,5yo boy).I made it to Finnish sewing magazine, showing my wife’s wedding dress (she’s my muse), my daughter’s dress, and my son’s and my vests I sewed (not my own patterns, except for son’s vest). I almost had orders made. A work mate of mine wants a judo gi, if I can find suitable fabric.See if I can start my own business…You have been a huge help and an inspiration. Cheers.PeteFinland
LeahFebruary 11, 2010 at 10:30 am
Thanks Stuart!I was able to find the issue. In creating points 29-30 I misunderstood the directions and measured the distance along the squared line from point 33, rather than from point 29 and meeting up with the line squared from point 33.
Natural hips is the same as hips for the sake of the arguement … whether it be a custom measurement or the one from the table. As for the shoulder measurement, the same applies. It’s difficult for me to tell where you might have gone astray (if at all) in the shoulder area, but if you email me the pattern and corresponding measurements I can take a look for you.
LeahFebruary 9, 2010 at 11:22 am
Hi again,When you refer to “natural hips” in steps 3-7 and 7-9, should I be using the “hips” measurement from the size chart?Many many thanks,Leah
LeahFebruary 9, 2010 at 10:38 am
Hi Stuart,I just wanted to clarify…..when you say “Draw a line shoulder width x 0.88 to meet a line squared across from point 33″ in step 29-30, should I be using the measurement for “shoulder” from the size table for the shoulder width? I would assume so, however, on my pattern the distance point 33 and point 30 seems like less than on the example.Thanks so much for making this site, it is enormously helpful!-Leah
Helen PhillipsDecember 12, 2009 at 3:57 am
I am new to sewing underwear and will love to use your site, this is amazing.
StuartDecember 9, 2009 at 1:02 pm
No problem Setara. I’ve also added images to some of the other measurements on the Womens Size Table to help prevent this problem in future. Thanks for bringing it to my attention … those images seem to have been dropped when I upgraded to the blog format.
SetaraDecember 9, 2009 at 12:48 pm
…if you listened closely, you could probably hear a huge sigh of relief coming from the direction of Toronto haha.This totally makes sense now, thank you SO much Setara
Hi Setara,This is a really easy one to explain. Nape to waist is taken from the nuchal bone at the centre back neck down to waist … it’s a back measurement, not a front measurement … seehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nape … here’s an image for you …
hopefully this should solve the problem you are having. I’ll add the image to the standard sizing table so it’s clearer for others!
SetaraDecember 9, 2009 at 8:44 am
Hello Stuart,I’m a fashion student in Toronto, and I’ve learned so much more about stretch from you site than I’ve ever learned in school. It’s great of you to share everything you’ve learned over the years!I have a question about the “nape to waist” measurement used in making these blocks. This is the second time I’m making blocks from these instructions, and I had the same problem the first time. I took the nape to waist measurement from the CF waist to the CF neck. Line 13 to 14 is supposed to be equal to line 1 to 2, which is the nape to waist measurement. In step 4 we create a neckline curve which makes point 28 our CF-neck point, and point 29 our shoulder-neck point. If points 28 and 14 are our nape and waist respectively, isn’t our nape to waist measurement now shortened by 1/6th the neck measurement? If we aren’t using negative ease in the vertical then won’t our suit be too short? I had to add to the block the firs time I tried it, and now I’m wondering if I’ve misunderstood the steps, or if I took the nape to waist measurement wrong…the bust to
