Matt Vincent - JTS - Throwing Lab

Throwing LAB

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ThRowinG LAb:

TECHNICAL THROWING MANUAL FOR THE HIGHLAND GAMES

By Matt Vincent

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©Matt Vincent, 2013 www.mattvincent.net

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

BEFORE YOU EMBARK ON ANY PHYSICAL FITNESS PROGRAM, PLEASE CONSULT WITH YOUR DOCTOR.

BOOK MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED OR RECORDED BY ANY MEANS WITHOUT WRITTEN CONSENT OF AUTHOR.

COPYRIGHT 2013 BY MATT VINCENT ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Edited by Laura Koss

Frame by Frame Photography by Brock Gomez www.brockgomez.com Artistic Photography By Mike Buck Photography Mike Buck Photography

Cover Art by Brad Jensen @Bricks and Bombs with Photo from Mike Buck

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction by Steve Pulcinella - 4 Throwing LAB - 5

Basic Principals of Throwing LAB - 6

Basics for Throwing in Highland Games - 8 Braemar - 11

Open Stone - 14

Weights 56 & 28 - 25

Hammers 22 & 16 - 30

Caber - 37

Sheaf - 40

Weight over Bar - 46 Off Weight Implements -48

DIY Caber - 49

Gear - 51

Programming - 54 Outro - 60

Acknowledgements - 61

Reference Pictures – 64

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Introduction

By Steve Pulcinella

The first time Matt Vincent walked into Iron Sport I didn’t know him by name, but

I did know him by one story that a strongman buddy of mine had told me earlier

that year. My buddy had told me that he was down south doing a strongman

contest and there was some guy down there competing in a full Luchador

costume. Not only was he competing with this Mexican wrestling mask on, but he

had WON the contest and pissed off the other competitors in the process. I just

remember thinking, “What an odd thing to do.” I didn’t make the connection at

first that Matt was the Luchador in question, but he went on to impress me with

his strength and skill in the gym that day. When I told my strongman buddy about

this impressive, young guy named Matt Vincent that had wandered into the gym

that day and threw a lot of big weight around he got all excited and exclaimed,

“That’s the Luchador!”

Since that first day Matt used to roll into town every few months and train while

he was in the Philly area. We got to talking one day and he mentioned that he

also threw the shot in college. It was a no-brainer; I asked him if he ever thought

about giving up strongman and doing Highland Games instead. I explained to him

that it was nothing but throwing events, there are so many contests that you can

compete all over the country just about every weekend, and you actually make

decent money, have a lot of fun AND wear a kilt.

Just as I suspected, Matt was a natural right away. He went home and

immediately found meets to enter and his own equipment to train on. The next

couple times he came into town we went out to my field to practice. I have a

pretty good eye for talent when it comes to throwing and I remember telling Matt

that he not only was future pro caliber but soon would be a top level pro if he

wanted to be. But even I couldn’t see just how fast his star would rise.

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Matt possesses all the qualities of the great champions before him - guys like Jim

McGoldrick and Ryan Vierra - the rare combination of strength, speed, timing,

patience and brains. Each one of these guys was a student of throwing and

constantly working in relentless pursuit of the “perfect throw.” When a guy like

that imparts his training knowledge you better believe it is prudent to perk up and

listen. And that is what Matt is doing here in this book. In the grand tradition of

the Highland Games culture, he is giving back to the sport.

Throwing LAB

Throwing has and will always be something that I love. I started throwing Shot-

put for track and field when I was 12years old. This continued through High

school and added the discus to my arsenal. During that time I was able to see

some moderate success. My best throw, coming at my final meet on my final

throw, 59’11.75”. It was good enough for my third state championship. My

throws were good enough to help me get the chance to continue throwing into

college. My time in college was not exactly focused on throwing. Don’t get me

wrong I still love to throw, but I had a good time in college. My collegiate years

brought some actual technical gains to my throws. Throwing Shotput, Discus, and

Hammer taught me different things. Now as an adult I can look back and see

different aspects of all of them that transfer to the Highland Games.

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The Highland Games have been a great outlet for me. It is everything I love about

throwing and none of the bullshit that came with doing it in college. I get to do it

for me and me alone. I still love spending hours out alone in a parking lot,

working the throws. Seeing what can affect some slight positive change. The

beauty of throwing is that there is no perfect (or at least I will never see it). This is

the beauty of throwing, it can always be improved. With the major points being

Strength, Speed, and Technique you have to maintain a consistent improvement

to all of them or one will suffer. I have been throwing for the last 18 years and I

am still hitting all time PRs. In a relative short amount of time I have been able to

come into the Highland Games (4 years as of end of 2012) and win three Amateur

World Championships as well as my 1st Professional Title. This sport is getting

more and more competitive. I am just trying to pass on some of the information I

have acquired.

What it comes down to is I love throwing. Training LAB details how to properly

set up a full seasons worth of training to be a thrower. Throwing LAB is going to

break down all the throws into all of the individual steps. This is what I am

thinking about technically when I throw. Hitting these positions is key to set

yourself up to throw to the best of your ability.

Technique is a big part of the puzzle. It doesn’t do you any good to be really

strong and dynamic if you cannot get into position to use it. This will point you in

the right direction so that you can begin making adjustments big and small to add

inches and feet to your throws. Now get to work and start throwing FARTHER!!!

Basic Principles of Throwing LAB

There are a few things to think about when doing drills. Drills are not meant to be

treated as if distance matters. Instead, take time to correctly establish good

patterns and habits while muscle memory to kick in.

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Drilling

Use the drills for their intended purpose. They

are designed to improve specifics that are

important to the entire throw. Work on

mastering these basics and keep focused on

what you want to accomplish. Work on one

issue at a time. Once it is established that you

do it correctly, every time, without thinking,

only then should you move on to the next

problem. For example, if your goal is to keep

your right foot turning, drill it until your foot

turns automatically.

Throwing is a Repetition

Game

The more you throw, the better you will throw. It will take 1,000 good reps to get

solid, then another 100,000 get good. I say “good” reps because if you throw a lot

without consciously correcting the problems that cause you to throw poorly, then

you are not fixing anything. Instead, you are reinforcing poor throwing technique.

The idea behind this, is that without a solid understanding of the basics, there is

little opportunity to make gains or improve important aspects of the throw. 90%

of the throw must be done correctly for it to work. The final 10% makes the

difference. For example, a balanced landing with your feet in the right place is

the necessary 90%. Making minor balance and foot placement corrections within

that 90% will take your throw to the next level. Only then should you begin

working on speed, lifting at the end, blocking harder, and/or driving to the front.

When the 90% becomes automatic, you may then adjust the last 10%, one

variable at a time.

Remember, this takes time. Stay focused and get after it.

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Basics of Throwing in the Highland Games

The Trig:

Standard Trig

The trig is the rectangle box from where you throw. The size of the box may vary,

with a max length of 9’. The Open Stone is thrown

from a slightly shorter trig at 7’9”. Width varies

between a standard 4’6” trig and slightly wider winged

trig.

Winged Trig

The winged trig is the most common trig for throwers

in the U.S. It is used for 4 of the 9 events, for both

stones and weights. Hammer uses a toe board as

well, but does not use a box.

The winged trig is exactly like the standard trig, but

with a 45-degree angle that extends for 18”

at the trig (toe board), making the box wider.

The same length applies to both the

Standard and Winged Trigs. Rules vary

slightly for throwing from each.

Rules:

Standard Trig

Different rules apply for each event, but

there are basic rules for throwing out of a

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trig. You can start with one foot in and one foot out of the box. You can also

finish with one foot in and one foot out, as long as one foot remains inside the

trig, on the trig, at all times. Your foot cannot go past the back line, or past the

front of the trig to the side of the toe board.

Winged Trig

The out of bounds lines extend from the Standard Trig, and therefore you cannot

go out of these lines. This tends to confuse some throwers, but if you are

throwing correctly and efficiently, you will not have a problem.

Scoring

The day is scored collectively for all events and the lowest score of the day overall

wins. 1st place is given low score and each place goes up by one point. To be

successful in the games, the key is to do well in all 9 events. You have a great

chance of winning overall by staying in the top 2 or 3 for each event, despite

never winning a single event.

Technical Guide Reference

In this section, I will explain basic terms used throughout this manual to explain

how to throw. Familiarizing yourself with these terms will help you grasp more

easily what I want to convey. Keep in mind that I use Olympic throwing

terminology such as Shot Put, Discus, and Hammer.

Throwing will be explained for a right-handed thrower, as I am writing from a

right-handed point of view. If you are left handed, just hold this up to a mirror,

and that should take care of it.

The most important terminology is for the layout of the trig. Like the face of a

clock, front and center toward the throwing area is the front or 12 o’clock, the

back of the trig is 6 o’clock, and the sides are 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively.

Important Terms

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Sector: The throwing area where you want the implement to land. This is also

described as 12 o’clock.

Starting Position: Foot placement and body alignment for beginning the throw.

Power Position: Movements and technique to get from the starting position to

the position when you begin firing for release. This is the position where you

should be fully loaded and ready to explode into the implement.

The Finish: This will take you from the Power Position to release. Being able to

properly transfer all of the momentum you have built up until this point into the

implement is the key to finishing strong and throwing far. Finishing a throw is the

difference between a good and a great throw.

Push to the Right (or left if you are left handed): Refers to generating power for

all events. Keep your core tight and push the implement with your right side

instead of pulling with left. This movement involves, in order, the right foot,

knee, hip, core, shoulder, and finally, hand.

Explanation of Events

There are a total of 9 events. Not every game includes all 9, and most

international games have 8. Usually, Sheaf is omitted from international

competition. The following is the traditional order of events:

1. Braemar Stone

2. Open Stone

3. Heavy Weight for Distance

4. Light Weight for Distance

5. Heavy Hammer

6. Light Hammer

7. Caber

8. Sheaf

9. Weight over Bar

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Braemar

The Braemar, the heavier of the two stone events, is the first event of the day

when throwing in traditional order. The original weight of the Braemar is

approximately 28 pounds, but most games throw a slightly lighter stone of 22 –

25 pounds. It is thrown using one arm and no approach. Because rules can vary

with Braemar, follow rules set by the judge that are specific to each competition.

Hold the stone with one hand and throw it out and into the throwing area by

pushing, rather than throwing, much like shot putting. Standing with one foot

against the trig, turn your upper body toward the back of the box while leaning

over. This position, cocked and loaded, is the Power Position. With both legs

bent, balanced on the balls of your feet, and in an athletic position, you have as

much kinetic energy loaded as possible. From this position, drive through the

ground, into your hand, finally pushing the stone as far as you can.

Standard Rules

As mentioned earlier, rules can vary from competition to competition and the

judge always has the final say. There are, however, standard rules that must be

followed for every competition. You cannot make an approach while throwing

Braemar. One foot is up against, or next to, the trig and the other foot is toward

the back of the box. You can reverse your feet after the throw, but one foot must

remain in the designated trig. Again, follow rules specific to each competition. If

you have questions, ask.

Technical Breakdown

Starting Position

Place your front foot (non-dominant foot) against the trig while facing 3

o’clock.

Spread your back foot toward the back of the trig, just a little more than

shoulder-width apart.

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Hold the stone to your neck and jaw, by your ear, with your right hand.

Hold your left arm straight out, keeping it relaxed.

Getting to the Power Position

Remain balanced on the balls of your feet for

the entire throw. Keeping your heels off the

ground will help generate force.

Shift 90% of your weight back onto your right

leg.

Your left leg should stay relatively straight,

with hips facing between 3 and 5 o’clock.

Rotate shoulders and head to 6 o’clock,

keeping left arm straight and relaxed.

The Power Position is a common position, used for Stone and Weight for Distance

events. Your legs are loaded with as much torque as possible, and from this

position, you will begin the finish to your throws. Think of this position as cocking

a gun, and from here you pull the trigger.

The Finish

The throw begins with the lower body. Begin turning the right leg and pushing

the hip out toward the throwing area while the upper body remains back, toward

6 o’clock, for as long as possible. The separation between the upper and lower

body will generate force and create a whip-like feeling to transfer force from the

feet, through the hips, then to the shoulder, and finally to the hand releasing the

stone. This is a violent movement with a lot happening, quickly. Once the Power

Position is reached, you must accelerate hard to achieve the whip and throw as

far as possible.

From the Power Position, the first move is to turn the right foot.

Keep your upper body turned toward 6 o’clock for as long as possible,

maintaining a separation between the upper and lower body.

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Continue to turn your right foot while pushing the knee in, toward the

throwing area.

The left arm is straight. Begin to open your arm at the same time your right

knee turns.

Begin to lift your right hip and drive behind your foot and knee, toward the

throwing area.

Keep your left arm straight and even with hip.

Straighten and lift your left leg while pushing your hip back. Rotate your

right hip into the left side and toward the throwing area as much as

possible. This creates the lift needed on the throw.

Begin to bend your left arm into a 90-degree angle and pull inward while

the left side is firm from foot to arm. This final bend and pull, known as The

Block, is the last bit of acceleration that pushes the right shoulder.

Push with your right foot, through the ground, to the hip, and extend the

arm pushing the stone out and into the throwing area.

The final push comes from your finger tips giving a final flip into the stone.

The final flip may seem minor, but is the difference between average and

great throws.

Braemar Cues

1. Focus out of the trig as long as possible.

2. Turn the right foot and drive the hip out.

3. Block hard, pushing the right side out to the sector.

Reverse Reversing refers to the switching of feet at the finish of the throw in an attempt

to prevent fouling. It is not a necessary part of the throw, and it is possible to lose

distance when throwing heavier stones because force is no longer applied once

your feet leave the ground. Throwers often reverse incorrectly, attempting to

mimic other throwers. Before reversing, I recommend getting comfortable with

the movements of hitting the stone as hard as possible, all the way through, and

stopping on balance.

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Open Stone

Open Stone is the lighter of the two stone events, usually weighing between 16

and 18 pounds. This event is similar to, and has inspired, the Olympic shot put.

The stone is thrown with a full approach, starting at the back of the trig (7’6” line)

and thrown with one hand, any way you choose. Finish by launching the stone

out and into the throwing area and you staying in the designated area. The three

styles used for throwing the open stone are Modified South African (MSA), Full

Spin, and the Glide. I will cover points and throwing technique for each.

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Standard Rules

A full approach can be taken

with this event and you may

begin with one foot outside

the throwing area, as long as

one foot remains inside the

box at all times. The foot

finishing outside the box

may be outside the 4’6” side

lines, but not past the near

side of the toe board.

Between those spots, any approach to throw the stone with one hand is legal.

Basics

The Open Stone is a natural progression of the Braemar and also uses the Power

Position. The technique for this event is nothing more than a rolling start to hit

the Power Position with momentum. This momentum helps to build speed,

allowing you to throw farther.

To create power, your right foot must keep moving ahead of your shoulders. The

further the hips, the more power you will have. For the best throw, finish with a

strong block and be sure that all speed and momentum transfers into the stone.

The best way to gauge if you’ve successfully transferred all of the momentum is if

you are balanced after the throw, without falling in any direction.

Modified South African or MSA

This is the most commonly used approach for the Open Stone.

Technical Breakdown

Starting Position

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Begin with one foot slightly ahead of the

other, in the back of the trig. Turning the

right foot slightly toward 90 degrees will help

make the turn feel more natural.

Keep your left arm extended, chest up, knees

slightly bent, and eyes up and on the horizon

toward the throwing area.

Hold the stone to your neck and jaw, by the

ear, with your right hand.


As mentioned before, this portion of the throw is

the “rolling start” to get to the Power Position and comprises the first half of the

throw. Once you hit the Power Position, finish as you would for the Braemar

throw.

Get weight to the left foot, kicking right foot through to the center of trig.

Your left leg will drive you toward the center, and the right leg is used to

begin turning your hips.

Keep your left arm long and pointed toward throwing area.

Begin turning your right foot as much as possible in the air, as if kicking a

soccer ball on the way to the trig.

For the right foot to land in the proper position, kick through, leading with

the outside of the foot.

Focus on something on the horizon, out past the throwing area. Keep your

upper body facing the throwing area for as long as possible.

Right foot should touch down on the center of the trig with toes pointed

between 6 and 3 o’clock.

Your left shoulder should be as close to over your right leg as possible. This

is your torque, which launches the shot. Keep your left arm long and loose.

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Continue to turn the right foot, driving the right heel around and pushing

the knee in. The closer this foot points toward 12 o’clock, the more torque

it will create.

Your left foot should land slightly behind the right foot, between 11 and 12

o’clock.

Left leg is down, shoulders back. This is the Power Position.

You are now in the Power Position. Getting the left foot down, in the proper

position, is critical. Without both feet on the ground, you cannot properly apply

force to the stone. If your foot is too far past 12 o’clock, you will block your hips

and be unable to finish the throw. Too far past 11 o’clock, you will pass the block

position. Your weight must shift to the left leg again for the block position. This

will be addressed later, but for now, get the left foot down.

The Finish

From this point, the finish will be the same, regardless of which technique is used.

After the left foot lands, move the right foot quickly to point toward 12 o’clock,

while turning the hips. Keep the upper body back and left arm long with the right

hip in front of the stone. The longer you can stay back letting the legs work, the

farther the stone will go.

Extend your left leg, pushing the left hip back. This motion accelerates the

right hip out toward the throwing area.

Pull the chest open with your left arm.

Pull your left arm in to accelerate the right shoulder. Similar to how an ice

skater gains speed by pulling the arms in while spinning, the left arm

remains long for the entirety of the throw, then pulls in to gain speed

creating a whip on the right side.

Left shoulder, side, hip, and leg should be aligned and firm.

This block stops your momentum, transferring it into the implement.

Drive the right leg around the left side and extend the right arm.

Your right hip finishes up and out on the left side.

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Push your left leg up to begin the reverse. The right foot is off the ground

and finished pushing.

With your right hand, begin to push the stone out and toward the throwing

area.

Fully extend your right arm and hand over the trig.

Flip the stone off your fingers for the final push, rolling it off the hand like a

basketball.

The left and right feet will change positions, and the left leg pulls you back

into the trig by swinging out and over it. This reverse will help save the

throw.

Full Spin

The full spin is an advanced technique used to throw Open Stone and is also used

by top track athletes to throw Shot Put.

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Technical Breakdown

For the full spin, you will add a rolling start to the MSA . This start uses the right

leg to kick through and position the hips farther in front of the upper body, giving

you more speed and drive out the back, which allows for a farther throw.

Starting Position

Face away from the throwing area.

Begin with both feet slightly more than

shoulder-width apart.

Extend and loosen the left arm.

Hold the stone to the neck and jaw, by

the ear with your right hand.

Getting to Power Position

Shift your weight to the right leg and

turn upper body slightly toward the

right.

Shift weight back over to the left side. Keep your head and eyes at the

horizon.

Bend knees into an athletic position. Keep your left elbow fixed inside the

left knee. Imagine there is a pole running between your elbow and knee

preventing your elbow from moving past that point.

Begin turning your left foot until it points toward 3 o’clock.

Keep right leg long as it lifts off the ground.

Your left arm is straight, pointing at 3 o’clock.

Continue to turn your left foot toward the throwing area, 12 o’clock, while

the right knee is out over the toes. All of your weight is on your left leg.

Point left arm toward the throwing area.

Right leg is hanging back, out of the ring.

At this point your left leg stops turning. Begin to kick the right leg through.

Keep left arm and eyes toward throwing area for as long as possible.

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Kick your right leg through, past the left leg. This provides the linear drive

to the center of the trig.

Continue the motion of the right foot and hip until your left side begins to

turn.

Drive off the left foot and get the right foot down into the middle of the

ring.

From this point, the throw is exactly the same as the MSA, including the finish:

Your left shoulder should be as close to over your right leg as possible. This

is your torque, which launches the shot. Your left arm should still be long

and loose.

Continue to turn the right foot, driving the right heel around and pushing

the knee in. The closer this foot points toward 12 o’clock, the more torque

it will create.

The left foot should land slightly behind right foot, between 11 and 12

o’clock.

Left leg is down, shoulders back. This is the Power Position.

You are now in the power position. Getting the left foot down, in the proper

position, is critical. Without both feet on the ground, you cannot properly apply

force to the stone. If your foot is too far past 12 o’clock, you will block your hips

and be unable to finish the throw. Too far past 11 o’clock, you will pass the block

position. Your weight must shift to the left leg again for the block position. This

will be addressed later, but for now, get the left foot down.

The Finish

From this point, the finish will be the same, regardless of which technique is used.

After the left foot lands, move the right foot quickly to point toward 12 o’clock,

while turning the hips. Keep the upper body back and left arm long with the right

hip in front of the stone. The longer you can stay back letting the legs work, the

farther the stone will go.

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Extend your left leg, pushing the left

hip back. This motion accelerates the

right hip out toward the throwing

area.


Pull your left arm in to accelerate the

right shoulder. Similar to how an ice

skater gains speed by pulling the arms

in while spinning, the left arm remains

long for the entirety of the throw,

then pulls in to gain speed creating a

whip on the right side.

Left shoulder, side, hip, and leg should

be aligned and firm.

This block stops your momentum,

transferring it into the implement.

Drive the right leg around the left side

and extend the right arm.





area.



basketball.



throw.

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The Glide

Of the three most common styles to throw, the glide is the least used. It is a

consistent technique and works especially well for taller, stronger athletes. In

fact, gliders have won gold medals in the 2008 and 2012 Olympics. So if you think

that this style is dated and cannot work for you then you are wrong. The glide is

easy to do but very tough to master the finer points.

Starting Position

Begin with your back facing the throwing sector

and shoulders square to the back of the trig.

Stand with both feet together and weight on right

foot.

Keep left arm loose and straight, pointing out of

the back of the trig.

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Hold the stone to the side of your jaw with your elbow up and thumb

down.


Raise left foot while keeping the leg straight and

pointed toward the trig.

Drop the left arm toward the ground and shoulders

will fall.

Focus your eyes on the ground approximately six feet

out of the back of the trig.

Bring the left foot back, kicking back toward the trig,

and at the same time, Push off the right foot, pushing

you across the trig.

Land your right foot at 3 o’clock.

This is the Power Position, with both feet down,

shoulders back, and left arm pointing out of the back of the trig.

The Finish

From this point, the finish will be the same. After the left foot lands, move the

right foot quickly to point toward 12 o’clock, while turning the hips. Keep the

upper body back and left arm long with the right hip in front of the stone. The

longer you can stay back letting the legs work, the farther the stone will go.

Extend your left leg, pushing the left hip back. This motion accelerates the

right hip out toward the throwing area.


Pull your left arm in to accelerate the right shoulder. Similar to how an ice

skater gains speed by pulling the arms in while spinning, the left arm

remains long for the entirety of the throw, then pulls in to gain speed

creating a whip on the right side.

Left shoulder, side, hip, and leg should be aligned and firm.

This block stops your momentum, transferring it into the implement.

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Drive the right leg around the left side and extend the right arm.





area.



basketball.



throw.

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Open Stone Cues

1. Keep upper body relaxed (glide) or left arm inside of knee(Full/MSA).

2. Maintain your focal point as long as you can.

3. While turning the right foot into the middle, drive the right hip out to the

sector.

4. Block hard with the left side, pushing the right side by it.

5. Explode violently into the stone.

The Weights 56 and 28

Both of the weights are thrown the exact same way. I am not going to just copy

and paste this twice to eat up more paper. If you disagree and think they are

different, then you either need to get stronger or faster.

Standard Rules

The trig, measuring 9 feet, is slightly larger for this event than it is for the stone

events. For these events, you can begin and end the throw with one foot out of

the trig.

Basics

With this throw, both feet begin by facing the sector. At the back right corner,

when facing the sector, the left foot is in the trig and the right foot is out of the

trig. From this position, begin swinging the weight, casting it out in front of you.

Then, jump and rotate three quarters around counterclockwise, landing with both

feet facing 3 o’clock. Push the weight by you again and jump again, driving to the

front of the trig. This jump will be a full 360 degree rotation and you will land in

the same position at the front of the trig, pushing the weight up and out into the

sector and finally, letting go.

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Starting Position

Begin in the back right corner of the

trig with one foot in and one foot out,

both feet facing the trig, shoulder-

width apart, and weight grounded

between legs.

Begin moving the weight side to side

using shoulders and hips – do not use

your arm to muscle the weight. You

will lose. Keep your arm long and

loose.

Swing the weight behind your body,

rotating shoulders back with the weight. Keep the arm that is holding the

weight close to 90 degrees for the entire throw.

When the weight hits its peak height at the back of the swing, drop with

your legs and fall with the weight to increase speed.

Using your upper body, bring the weight back around and push with your

shoulder (not arm) out in front to 12 o’clock, at about eye level. This is the

cast.


While the weight is out in front, before it reaches 9 o’clock, put your right

foot down in the back corner of the trig and left foot shoulder-width apart

from it. Face both feet toward 3 o’clock.

o When I throw, landing with my left foot in front of the right helps to

keep my shoulders back and puts me in a more balanced position to

begin applying force to the weight.

With both feet down and weight back at 9 o’clock, sink with legs and push

the weight toward 6 o’clock. The more you can push the weight back and

away from you, the more you can accelerate it by driving against it, creating

an elliptical orbit.

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o You can land with your feet slightly closed

off here. Left is farther right than the

right. This will help you drive straight to

the trig.

When the weight hits 6 o’clock, use your legs to

drive against the weight, sprinting to the trig

against the weight. Push aggressively off the

right foot, then the left.

You are travelling toward the front of the trig

and will land in the same position as before,

with both feet pointed toward 3 o’clock and

with shoulders back and catching weight near 9

o’clock.

Since you cannot apply force to the weight while in the air, get back to the

ground as quickly as

possible. Keep your legs

active and bent, working

the weight. Remain

longer on the ground

than in the air.

This is the Power

Position.

Finishing the Throw

There is a lot to accomplish in

this section and the motions to

finish the throw are executed

quickly.

Begin with legs bent,

pushing the weight with

your shoulders again.

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Just like the Stone event, turn

your right foot with the hips to

face the sector.

When the weight hits in the

back and begins moving from

6 o’clock, shift your weight

from the right foot to the left,

while the left arm comes

around to block.

Bring hips through and

straighten the legs. Lift the

weight up and out at a 45-

degree angle.

When the weight leaves your

hand, all of your weight will be

on your left foot with your

arm out to the side blocking

aggressively.

If your left foot is still moving at the finish, put more weight on it to keep it

fixed and stable so all of the force transfers from your body to the

implement.

Drills

I do one turns and line drills. One turns help to achieve balance while spinning

with the weights, and line drills help to apply linear force to the implement and

prevent fouling.

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One Turns

For this simple drill,

begin in the position in

which you land after

the cast. Standing at

the back of the trig

with both feet facing 3

o’clock, begin swinging

the weight in front,

then behind you.

Then, push the weight

down to 6 o’clock and

drive hard against it,

getting all the way to the trig. From here, you are in the Power Position, but

moving slightly slower than a full throw. Now, apply force, being sure to finish on

balance, and push the weight out into the sector.

When my one turns feel strong and balanced, I throw my best in weights. Once

you are comfortable with this drill, you can think of the full throw as nothing

more than an easy, rolling start to hitting this drill. Hit the sprint aggressively and

attack the release on balance.

Line Drills

Even though you spin when throwing weights, you must be able to apply linear

force to the implement without drifting and fouling out of the left side of the trig.

Line drills can help eliminate that drift.

Draw a straight line on the ground, or find one in a parking lot. Begin in the

position in which you land after the cast, like the one turn, but without releasing

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the weight. Begin pushing with weight with your legs, turning, and back down to

catch and push again. Start slowly, gradually building speed over 3-5 turns.

Concentrate on traveling in a straight line. Focus on pushing the weight back

down to a low point at 6 o’clock. With 6 o’clock as its low point, it is easier to

drive directly against the weight while moving in a straight line to the trig without

drifting to the left and causing an unnecessary foul.

Cues

1. Cast the weight past you.

2. Catch the weight at 9 o’clock and drive down and away to 6 o’clock.

3. Drive aggressively off the right leg toward the trig. This is where all the

power comes from.

4. Land, driving the weight out to the sector by pushing with the right, while

lifting with the legs.

Hammer 22 and 16

Similar to the Weights for Distance, you will throw both a heavy (22#) and a light

(16#) hammer. Essentially, this event is a wind and release, in which you wind the

hammer around your head 2 or 3 times and finish by throwing it over your

shoulder and out into the throwing area. Both the heavy and light hammers are

thrown using the same technique. The heavy focuses a bit more on strength

while the light focuses on speed.

A major difference between throwing Hammer and the other events is that you

can wear blades attached to your boots. Blades dig into the ground to keep your

feet planted firmly, which is helpful to create force with your legs to use on the

ball.

Standard Rules

As with all distance events, you will stand behind a trig. Begin at about one foot

behind the trig, facing away from the throwing area with both feet firmly planted

at shoulder-width apart, or just slightly wider. From here, the hammer is thrown

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out and into the sector for

distance. You cannot fall over

the trig or out of the side.

Basics

Although there are many

subtle differences that may

be used in the Hammer event,

basic techniques must be

mastered before

implementing them.

There are two approaches to the Hammer. One approach, the standard throw,

starts on the right, winding three times. The other, the dynamic start, starts on

the left, swinging out in front and over to the right, winding twice. Either

approach generates force in the same way.

The most difficult and basic concept to grasp is to PUSH the ball. Push the ball

with the right side, applying force to gain more distance. It is a push-and-pull

motion in which you catch the hammer over the right side to counter it and apply

force.

For the release, catch it, balanced, on the right side and violently PUSH around

and out into the sector while blocking with the left side. Blocking transfers all of

the force to the implement. Like the weights and stones, force is lost if you fall

away from the throw. To ensure the most force possible, plant both feet firmly,

or move just the left foot toward the trig on release. With hands moving upward,

fully extend the legs, lifting the hammer up and out.

Technical Breakdown

Starting Position (Standard Start)

Stand behind the trig, over to whichever side is necessary to place the ball

for the start of the throw.

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Place the ball on the ground behind you, close to 10 o’clock behind your

right side.

Stand with feet shoulder-width or slightly farther apart.

With the majority of your weight on the right foot, pull with the left blade.

Begin by dragging the weight out in front of you.

Starting Position (Dynamic Start)

Begin with the hammer in your left hand, back toward 2 o’clock.

Swing straight out toward 6 o’clock, then grab the hammer with the right

hand.

Continue the swing, bringing the hammer behind you on your right side,

pushing back as far as possible.

From this point, start as you would in Second Wind, as explained in the next

section.

I’ve had the most success using the Second Wind technique because it helps

me to remain on the right side more effectively than Three Winds. I also

prefer the rhythm of the cast, speed wind, and release wind. Put simply, it

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seems that the fewer times I have to wind around my head, the less

opportunity there is to screw up.

Starting the Throw

1st Wind

With the hammer sitting on the ground at 10 o’clock, hold the end of the

handle with both hands as if holding a golf club or baseball bat.

Drag the hammer through 6 o’clock with the right side.

Lift the hammer overhead, pushing the ball up and out, allowing gravity to

help build speed.

Turn your upper body and sink the hips keeping your weight on the right

side.

Catch the hammer back behind your right side.

Use this built-up torque to sit against the hammer and push with the right.

Force is generated by sitting back and countering the hammer with your hips.

This is why the top throwers move their hips in circles, moving against it,

generating force.

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2nd Wind

The vast majority of speed is gained in this wind.

Push the hammer through a low point at 8 o’clock. Lift and keep

countering the hammer, using your blades to pull yourself into position.

Push the ball as far to the left as you can while using the left side to push it

up. Lengthen your arms and get the hammer as high over 10 o’clock as

possible.

When pushing the weight up, come onto your toes, push the knees over

your toes, and extend the hips.

When you turn over to catch on the right side, sink down with the hips and

sit back. Push hard with the right side. Sinking will create a ton of speed.

Push the hammer through a low point at 7 o’clock. Low points drift closer

to 6 o’clock with each wind which keeps the hammer on your right side.

3rd Wind (Getting to the Power Position)

Speed has increased steadily with each wind. Now, keeping your arms

loose, you will begin putting direction on the throw.

Sit back hard, countering the hammer again. Push the hammer by with

your right side.

Keeping arms long, let the hammer

extend as far into the sector as

possible to elongate the orbit and

create an ellipse.

When the hammer reaches

overhead, allow your head to go

back. This will lengthen your arms.

While extending your hips, knees

should be over your toes.

Catch the hammer on the right side,

and push with the right side,

beginning to counter back again.

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Balanced, this loaded right side is the Power Position.

The faster you are moving, the smaller the window of catching a solid

Power Position is.

Finishing the Throw

Push the ball violently with the right hand again while driving back against

it.

This time, begin blocking with the left leg.

Keep your arms as long as possible and push the hammer out into the

sector with the right side.

Turn your head to follow your hands and bring your head back.

Fully extend your body and lean toward the trig while pushing everything

out the left side block.

Let go of the hammer and finish by coming back overhead.

If necessary, take a small step with your left foot toward the trig.

If you fall back and away from the hammer, you are not driving it out with the

force built up during the winds. Like the other throws, you want all of the energy

transferred into the hammer. Counter with winds 1-3 and drive it out on the

release.

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Drills

5-10 Winds

This drill is exactly what it sounds like. Do 5-10 winds while gradually building

speed.

Begin as slowly as possible, feeling the hammer slowly build speed

generated from countering the hips and pushing right.

Keep arms long, like loose ropes. Remember, your legs and hips are

throwing the hammer, not your arms. The looser they are, the more speed

you will gain.

1 Wind and Release

This drill will help with balance and the finish. Start slow, adding a little more

force for each one, and continue until the distance plateaus.

Start.

Do first wind.

Counter against hammer.

Finish.

Hammer Cues

1. Keep arms loose.

2. Keep weight on right side.

3. Push with the right hand.

4. Catch quickly. The faster turnover, the more time you have to push and

apply force.

5. Lift on two.

6. Head back on three.

7. Finish out past the block. Continue driving out, without falling back away

from throw. You should have all of your weight moving toward the throw.

If a slight step toward the trig is needed to keep balance that is fine.

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Caber

The Caber is the marquee event of the games, and also one of the most

challenging. Throwing far in all the events is great, but turning big cabers gets the

crowd going faster than anything else. It is the only event judged on accuracy

rather than distance or height. Once the caber is picked, run with it while

balancing it vertically. Stop and flip the caber end over end.

Standard Rules

The caber is awarded a score based on the attempted turn. A perfect score of

12:00 is awarded when the bottom end of the caber, the end in your hand, is

flipped over and lands pointing directly away from you at 12:00, like the hand of a

clock.

Any deviation from 12:00 on the turn’s landing is counted down to the

appropriate time as long as the caber turns through 90 degrees on the flip (10:00,

1:00, etc.). If it doesn’t, it is given a degree score up to 90 degrees by a side judge

and the closer to 90 degrees, the better. The only other option is if it lands

around the 9:00/3:00 range without the head passing through 90 degrees. This is

called a fifer.

Basics

There is no out-of-bounds, unless there is a fence or it is noted by the head judge.

You will be handed the caber vertically and from the moment you take it, you are

on your own. Once you have the caber balanced, lean it against your shoulder

and begin working your hands toward the bottom. The caber will be picked,

caught, and balanced.

Attempt to turn the caber end over end either by running and throwing or

standing and throwing. Larger cabers require running to build momentum to get

them to turn. Stop and pull on the bottom of the caber, flipping it end over end.

Hopefully it will land pointing directly away from you, at 12:00.

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Technical Breakdown

This throw will be broken

down by parts, just as the

other throws are, but with

the addition of “the pick.”

The pick is the portion of the

throw where you lift the

caber up, then catch it.

The Pick

Once you receive the

caber and it is balanced vertically, begin to bend down with the caber

leaning against one shoulder. Either shoulder is fine. Choose the one that

is more comfortable for you.

Use the side of your head and shoulder to keep the caber steady and tight.

As you bend down, work your hands to the bottom, keeping your fingers

interlocked.

At this point, you will be bent forward, leaning into the caber, with your

hands close to the bottom. The caber will be pinned using your neck,

shoulder, and hands, squeezing with your palms.

Lift the caber with a pop, a quick lift from the hips. The toss should be

vertical. Shoot your hands under the bottom in one, quick movement. This

will take plenty of practice to be able to do well.

With your feet in an athletic position, catch the caber while keeping it

pinned with your shoulder and neck, and with your hands under the

bottom.

For more control, hold the caber around the bottom edge with half of your

fingers on the side and half underneath.

Starting the Throw (Getting to the Power Position)

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At this point, you are standing and balancing the caber.

Now, begin to get the caber moving. It is important to keep your points of

contact with the caber tight to help keep it vertical, balanced, and in the

same position.

Run as far as you need to with the caber still pinned to your shoulder. As

you run, drive the top end forward, like pushing a sled.

Once you build speed, come to an abrupt stop. Do not jump into a stop

because the force will bury you and you won’t be able to pull or turn the

caber.

When your feet stop, momentum will pull the caber away from your

shoulder.

Feet square, knees bent, hands centered, and caber just moving away is the

Power Position.

Finishing the Throw

Explode through the hips,

popping the hips.

Keeping your hands close

to your body, pull your

hands up and over your

head. This pull back will

turn the caber more

effectively.

Drills

Pick and Carries

The first half of picking the caber

and balancing while moving is

the most difficult. Getting

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comfortable with this part will make the finish much easier.

This drill is just what it sounds like. Pick the caber and carry it the length of the

field, or about 100 feet. Then, turn around and go back.

Sheaf

The Sheaf is an event in which you throw a 16# or 20# burlap bag, for height, over

a bar, using a pitchfork. Most people bring their own pitchfork, which is unique to

this event. I recommend using your own fork so you can practice on your own

and familiarize yourself with how the bag leaves the tines. Most pitchforks used

for this event have 2 or 3 tines.

Standard Rules

The goal is to throw the bag over a crossbar supported by two uprights that are

approximately 10 feet apart. The bag can hit the bar and/or the uprights as long

as it travels over the top of the bar and between the uprights. With your back

facing the uprights, you will use the pitchfork to stab the bag and flick to toss it

over the bar.

Basics

Begin facing away from the crossbar, set up by taking a few steps out from under

it. I find that 3 and half steps work well for me, and I use that same distance each

and every time. Determine your left-to-right alignment by shooting for dead

center and adjust according to how the bag is flying that day.

Both methods of throwing involve casting the bag to get it behind you, pushing it

down, then driving it up with the legs. A pop of the hips and a strong left side

block is what causes the bag to leave the tines properly.

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The key to this event is applying force to the bag with your hips, minimally using

your arms. Like the other events, there are important positions to hit and a

strong block is needed at the finish.

Technical Breakdown

The Bag

How your fork digs into the bag makes a big difference in the throw. Push the

fork through one end, or as close to a corner as possible. You want two sides,

giving you the best flick off the tines. Two sides if I am thinking of all bags as a

rectangle, you want the fork to go in the top and out a side.

Starting Foot Position

Push the pitchfork through the bag, as described above.

Take 3-4 steps out from the center, directly under the crossbar.

Position feet shoulder-width apart, with toes slightly out. This helps to get

the hips to fire.

Hold the fork at snatch-grip width. If you are standing straight up, hold the

fork wide enough so the fork passes at hip-level.


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Bend legs and waist slightly.

Focus on the ground 5 feet in the distance keeping your head in a neutral

position.

Keep your arms long without bending them as you will lose force from your

legs if your arms are bent.

Begin by swinging the bag to your left side, twisting at the hips. Your

shoulders and chest should move as one.

Swing the bag back to your right side. Be sure that it passes the right knee.

When the bag reaches this back point, begin to drive it down toward the

right foot, sinking with it at the hips and keep your upper body close to

vertical while bending the knees.

The low point should be directly over the right foot.

Bend your legs as much as possible without touching the ground.

This is the Power Position.

Finishing the Throw

From this position, begin using your legs to lift the bag.

Everything goes up, like performing a snatch pull.

Drive through the heels and extend the legs violently. Jumping is fine.

The bag will continue on its normal arc because of the shoulder swing but it

will be travelling vertically now because of the leg drive. The path the bag

will take resembles a checkmark rather than an arc.

As the bag accelerates, stiffen your left side and block.

Stop the left arm when it reaches a 90-degree angle to the ground so the

bag flicks off the tines of the fork.

Keep your head still, your legs straight, and continue focusing on your focal

point.

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Keep your head down, find a focal point, and continue to focus on it to decrease

your chances of drifting too far with your left hand, flying in a bad trajectory,

missing the height of the bar, and throwing outside of the uprights. Just like the

throws it has to be a smooth transfer of power from the legs and hips then arms

into the Bag. Just like performing a push press things have to happen in order so

that you are getting leg drive into your hands.

Drills

Bottom-Up

This is a drill I do every time I throw Sheaf just to get myself acclimated to using

my legs rather than my arms to lift. I also take my first throw using this technique

to adjust more quickly. As you perform this drill, concentrate on using your legs

to accelerate the bag, leaving your arms to do very little.

Begin in the Power Position.

Lay the bag and tines on the ground just in front of your right foot.

Cock arms accordingly, with your left hand on the tines by your right foot

and your right hand at your side at 90 degrees to the ground. Bend your

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knees as low as you can. Sink your hips and try to get your back upright.

From this position, finish the throw as you would from the Power Position.

This is nothing more than an aggressive snatch pull and block on the left

side from here.

When switching from this drill into a full throw, I recommend adding an easy

rolling start and getting as close to the low position as possible. From there, keep

adding a little more back swing past the right knee.

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Weight Over Bar

Weight Over Bar is the last event of the

traditional order and there are just two

main ways to throw it, the standing

throw and the spinning throw. Not all

competitions allow the spinning throw.

Overseas competitions allow the

standing throw only.

Standard Rules

In this event, a 56# weight is thrown as high as possible, with one hand, over a

bar. Weight Over Bar uses the same standard as Sheaf and the same rules apply,

in that the weight must go over the bar and between the standards.

Speaking from experience, this event can easily make or break your games. With

a 6-point lead going into Weight Over Bar at the 2012 Celtic Classic, I couldn’t get

it over the bar and it cost me the win.

Basics

The weight is cast with a swing like a kettle bell. Sink and pull to lift and

accelerate the weight. The spin makes it similar to the throw for distance, but

with a much steeper orbit.

Technical Breakdown (Standing Throw)


Position yourself centered, directly under the bar and take between a half

and a full step out. For me, placing my heels six inches from the bar works

best.

Begin with your feet shoulder-width apart, toes pointed slightly out, and

weight between them, like setting up for snatch.

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Your left hand will remain on your left thigh for the entire throw. Once in

the Power Position, use it to push up.

Starting the Throw (Getting to the Power

Position)

Pick up the weight with your dominant hand and begin

with a light swing. There is a greater chance of losing

rhythm by starting with an aggressive first swing

because immediately there is more force to counter,

so I prefer a light starting swing.

Swing small on the side, then back out front and

between your legs.

Once the weight passes through your legs, keep your

legs tall but slightly bent.

The weight will reach a high point between your legs

and will feel weightless. When it feels weightless, sink

at the hips and knees with the weight, allowing it to fall to a low point

between your feet. Keep the upper body upright.

When the weight hits the low point and your arm is long, this is the Power

Position.

Finishing the Throw

When you reach the Power

Position, accelerate the weight

by pushing through the feet and

extending the hips. The faster

you can push your legs, more

force will transfer into the

weight, giving it more height.

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As your hips extend, keep your arm long and lean back, finishing with your

head back.

Release the weight up and slightly back. If thrown correctly, the weight will

peak over the bar and fall back to the ground in a smooth arc.

Technical Breakdown (Spinning Throw)


You will determine your alignment within the standards that works best for

you through trial and error. When you do, be consistent and use the same

set up each time.

Begin by facing 90 degrees to the bar, just as you would set up for a one

turn in the Weight for Distance event.

Starting the Throw (Getting to the Power Position)

Set up as you would for a one turn in Weight for Distance.

Cast the weight past you, nearly above your head.

Counter the weight and get both feet down. Catch the weight and drive it

down near your right foot.

The point when the weight reaches the low point near your right foot is the

Power Position.

Finishing the Throw

From the Power Position, jump and shrug, driving up and over the left leg,

much more than you would for the Weight for Distance.

The momentum of the weight’s orbit will take care of turning your body

and the height and steepness will help the trajectory.

Block hard with your left hand, in the direction of the throw.

Push the weight up and out, over the bar.

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*No picture for the spin, since I can’t do it correctly I figured why waste

your time. Plus I think it is Voodoo.

Drill

Opening Height Drills

Having the confidence to know that when you step up, you can get it done on

any throw is necessary to do well at the games. This confidence is what makes

some competitors better than others.

To build your confidence in WOB, prepare and take time to hit 10 throws in a

row at your opening height. Set up consistently every time and get it done.

When you can hit the opening height, consistently, without thinking, then you

are prepared. It’s not about who can throw higher, but who can do it with the

least attempts.

Off Weight Implements

Throwing with implements either slightly heavier or lighter to the standard

weights is a training tool that Track and Field throwers have always used. This will

help develop some sport specific strength for the games. The weights have to still

be in the same ball park so that the technique translates. Since the majority of

the Highland Games implements are heavy already I recommend so just under

weight items. These are especially good for Open Stone, Heavy Weight for

distance, Hammers, and Weight over Bar. The implements that are going to have

the best translation are going to be between 10-15% under the standard weight.

Using a 49# heavy weight for distance for example is going to help you build

speed. You can also take a lot more throws in training to refine your technique.

This will not be a total replacement for throwing the standard weights. Another

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really useful weight for training is a 14# and 20# Hammer. This is something you

should implement in your training when you are feeling slow or beat up from

lifting. Typically a training throw with a slightly underweight implement will be

very similar to Competition weight on game day. You will have some additional

rest as well as adrenaline at your disposal.

Now if you do not have a full run of implements to throw with, you should get the

standard weights first. This is going to another tool that you can put into your

arsenal when the time comes.

Putting this in your training is really simple as well. You can do it a couple of

different ways. One way is throwing the lighter implements before throwing the

standard weights. The other is focusing on the lighter ones for a training cycle to

work on speed. I still recommend taking a couple of throws with the standard

weights to make sure everything is translating.

DIY Caber

Acquiring certain equipment used in the Highland Games, like the caber, can be

difficult and since you need to practice and get the work in, you can build what

you need. The following is a simple list of instructions for how I built my training

caber. You can adjust it so it is suitable for your throwing level. It is a serious

stick, measuring in at 20 feet and 128 pounds with no taper. When I constructed

this, I figured that if I could turn this, I could handle anything in competition.

Materials Needed:

3 pieces of untreated lumber 2 x 6 20

o Length can vary according to your needs.

o Be sure to use untreated lumber. Splinters happen, but there is

less chance of infection with untreated wood. Also, treated

lumber is too heavy.

4 big tubes of Liquid Nail

50 4-inch deck screws

Electric drill

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Skill saw

Electric sander with 40-60 grit sandpaper

Get the lumbar home safely and according to the law, my editor informed me that

maybe the way I did it was not the best way to recommend.

Step 1

Cover one board using two tubes of Liquid Nail. Two tubes may seem excessive,

but it won’t hurt and it doesn’t matter if it’s pretty. Mine did end up looking

pretty, by the way.

Step 2

Place another board on top. Straighten and secure with about 5 screws to hold it

together tightly. Leave five feet near the bottom without screws for shaping with

the skill saw. Place a couple of heavy weights on the boards (I used 100 lb.

weights) and let them sit for about 15 minutes.

Step 3

Repeat steps 1 and 2 and fill these bastards full of screws, leaving the bottom 5

feet free. Let it sit for another 15 minutes.

Step 4

First cuts. Set your skill saw to cut at a 45-degree angle. Start at the bottom,

going up to about 5 feet, gradually making your way out of the board. Do this for

all 4 sides. Repeat this for the bottom end, cutting all four sides perpendicular to

the original cuts. This will shape and round the bottom end.

Step 5

With the sander, shape and smooth the bottom. Sand the portion of the bottom

where your hands and shoulder will come into contact with it well.

Step 6

Have a beer and admire your work. Let it dry for a day. Then, go throw it.

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Gear

Gear is what you need for the games. I bring a ton of shit to the games, and in this section, I’ll break down everything I keep in my travel box. Bringing too much gear is always better than being unprepared. So with the variety of situations you will encounter at the games, try to be ready for it all. If you forget something, chances are, someone else packed it and may lend it to you. However, be as prepared as possible for every game and don’t be that guy who, for every game, is unprepared. For the most part, the gear used for heavy training in the gym is what you will need to pack.

Tape Basic athletic tape is like throwers duct tape. I use it for everything from fixing shoes, taping my thump, torn calluses, supporting my shitty knees, and keeping my glove on.

Gloves

You will need to experiment with gloves. Try a few, and use what works best for

you. I use a tight leather glove, but only in weights for distance.

Sheaf Fork

I highly recommend getting one of your own to practice. Each fork throws a little

differently and getting used to one fork will make a big difference at the games.

Blades

If you want to take throwing seriously, get blades and learn how to use them.

They are a necessity. There is a reason that the top guys in the world use at least

one of them.

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Footwear

I carry a variety of footwear to the games. I throw with a pair of Javelin boots or

high jump shoes. They both have spikes and will hold up to more abuse than any

running shoe will. They only difference between the two is one is a high top and

the other is low.

I use soccer cleats for caber and sheaf. These also come in handy if the weather

leaves the ground sloppy.

Weightlifting shoes are great for WOB. I treat this event like the Olympic lifts,

using the solid heel to drive the weight up.

Tacky

There is a variety of tacky from which to choose. Again, figure out what works for

you. I use 3M spray adhesive in the maroon can. It has just the right stick and can

be found anywhere.

Support and Neoprene

If you are a strength athlete, get familiar with Neoprene. It provides limited

support but will keep everything warm.

Wrist Wraps

Wraps are great to support wrists while throwing stones.

Knee Sleeves

These offer minimal support but great warmth.

Warm Shorts

These are great on cold days and to keep the hips moving on long competition

days.

Liniments

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Liniments are like an external lubricant for the gears. Use these to help with warming your joints and to alleviate pain and soreness. There are many liniments available. Equi-block, Tiger Balm, or any other capsaicin based rubs work best. I highly recommend these types of products, but start light if you haven’t used them. Tiger Balm is the lightest of the three and I recommend using it first. The other two are as strong as nuclear weapons and will heat up uncomfortably if too much is used. Despite my advice to start light, many of you will go full force and ruin a training period.

PVC Roller

A PVC Roller is great because at 6” in diameter, and less than a foot long, it will fit in your bag and you can shove other shit in it. It works better than a foam roller and is only about $6.00. Spending some time on it will help to loosen the scar tissue and sinew that has been keeping you together.

Stretch Bands

Stretch bands are great, not just for looking like you know what you’re doing in the gym or showing how dynamic your lifts are, but also for stretching and warming up. Keeping one of these handy can take care of warming up everything from shoulders, with some face pull, to your hamstrings and lower back with Good Mornings. You can also use it to launch things at your fellow competitors.

Chalk Chalk is great for stones and WOB. It keeps the neck dry and provides more grip for stones. Stones are usually the first event, and chalk is handy since the ground may still be wet with dew.

Towels

Bring towels. No one wants to share a sweat rag with you. It also avoids spreading staph infections. Bring an old towel from home or liberate some from

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your hotel. They’re great for drying and cleaning implements that are wet and muddy. Be sure to wash it, or, be a gentleman and return it to the hotel.

Belt

Belts are great to have in your gear arsenal. I use only my heavy lifting 13mm leather Lever Belt for WOB. However, a 10mm belt is also a good choice and may be more comfortable for most lifters. Spending a little extra on high-quality lifting belt is a good investment. An average sporting goods store most likely will not carry the belt you need. Look at any number of different Powerlifting websites and you can choose your own based on thickness, buckle type, and color. A neoprene belt is good for warming the lower back. It doesn’t provide enough support, but will help with soreness. It can be the difference between backing out of an event because of back pain and finishing strong with added support.

Programming Throws training is broken down into a couple of different options. You can throw

anywhere between 1 to 4 days a week. Different times of the year require

different volumes. I suggest running your throwing in accordance to how I lay it

out based on which Training Lab training block you are in.

1 Day / Week

Open Stone Weight Hammer

Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5 Standing w/ Reverse x 5 Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5

Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10

When throwing one day a week, focus on Open Stone, Weights, and Hammer,

which are the most technical events. Working these 3 basic throws will help you

to train for 6 events. Alternate heavy and light for Weight and Hammer. For

example, throw HWFD and light Hammer one week, and throw the opposite the

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following week. You will throw Stone every week, and the stands and full throws

take care of training Braemar and Open.

2 Days / Week Day 1:

Open Stone HWFD Weight 16# Hammer Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5

Standing w/ Reverse x 5 Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5 Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10

Day 2:

Open Stone LWFD Weight 22# Hammer Stand Non Reverse x 5 (B) 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5

Standing w/Reverse x 5(B) Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5 Full Throw x 5 (OS) Full Throw x 10

The major difference for Open Stone, Day 2, is that a heavy stone (Braemar) is

used for your stands. Otherwise, there is no difference between these throws.

One day is speed and the other is power. At this point, building on these two

main throws will be more beneficial than spending too much time on height

events that require longer setup and effort to train properly than is required by

these throws.

3 Days / Week Day 1: Open Stone HWFD Weight 16# Hammer

Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5


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Day 2: Open Stone LWFD Weight 22# Hammer

Stand Non Reverse x 5 (B) 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5 Standing w/Reverse x 5(B) Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5


Day 3: Sheaf WOB Caber( if you have

available) 15-20 x Throws 15 – 20 Throws Pick and Carry x 5 Full Throw x 10

Height event training begins on the third day. For the WOB and Sheaf, find a tree

limb, fence, high wire, or anything with an adjustable height over which to throw.

Find something easy enough to clear. For example, the line over which I throw

my WOB is set at the same opening height for Sheaf. My goal is to clear 75% of

the throws. In a game, I want to be able to hit an opening, and possibly 2 or 3

more heights, at most. Avoid fatigue. If you work your way up from the bottom

every game, you’ll be exhausted by time you reach the high throws. It is always

better to clear a PR by one inch than an opening by 3 feet.

Caber training is tough, any way you go about it. If you’re lucky enough to have a

caber, that’s great. If not, build one according to the instructions I detailed

earlier. However, you’ll also need a second person to avoid having an exhausting

and frustrating training session. If you do, in fact, have a caber and another

person to help, start with pick and carry drills. Pick and carry drills are exactly

what they sound like. Pick up the caber and walk with it while maintaining

balance. The longer you can do it, the better.

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4 days / week: Day 4 on weeks with no games

Day 1:

Open Stone HWFD Weight 16# Hammer Stand Non Reverse x 5 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5


Day 2: Open Stone LWFD Weight 22# Hammer

Stand Non Reverse x 5 (B) 1 Turns x 5 1 Wind x 5 Standing w/Reverse x 5(B) Full Throw x 10 2 Wind x 5


Day 3:

Sheaf WOB Caber( if you have available)

Bottom Drills x5 15 – 20 Throws Pick and Carry x 5 Full Throw x 10 Full Throw x 10

Day 4:

Day 4 is for preparation of upcoming games. If you have a game that week, you

can take Day 4 off from Throws Training, depending how you feel. If you don’t

have a game, do mock games for Day 4. Throw nearly every event, but no more

than 5 throws per event. Do a 2-throw warm-up and 3 throws at full speed. This

forces you to focus and throw as if you need to hit your big throws within a

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couple tosses, giving a good indication of what you can pull off in a game. Take

this day seriously and work on hitting a good throw when you need it.

This program will help you gain on all throws and will help to determine how well

your training progresses throughout the year, with regards to throwing volume.

Like most, I am more proficient in some throws than others. I devote more time

to throws that need improvement while maintaining those at which I am more

proficient. For example, I am a better Stone than Hammer thrower. It doesn’t

make sense to spend as much time on Stone when I could devote that time to

improving Hammer. Winning Open Stone by 5 feet is cool, but not when losing

Hammer by 15 feet. I would rather be good at both.

Competition Preparation

How many days should you back off before competition? What should I do the

week of a contest? Should I throw? Should I lift? There are many questions

concerning competition preparation, and many of which all athletes ask

themselves. Compared to Powerlifting or Strongman, which require longer

recovery time, throwing requires more unique preparation.

Contest week I do my Rx’d training Monday through Thursday. Friday is rest and

travel day. Saturday is competition day. Sunday is recovery day. There is no

need to back off for a full week for throwing - one day before and after

competition day is plenty. Taking too much time off can stall performance

throughout the course of the season. Games season is a long season. It’s

possible to throw 3 – 5 weekends in a row. By taking a full week to rest, and not

training, you can miss months of strength gains.

Once out of the first block of High Volume, you will lift 3 days a week and Throws

Train 2 – 3 days a week. The Games Week schedule is set up differently than

other training weeks. Lifting at this point requires no more than 45 minutes. The

following is my typical in-season week schedule:

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Monday: Lift

Tuesday: Throw (Stone, Weight, Hammer)*

Wednesday: Lift / Throw (Height Events)

Thursday: Lift / Throw (Throw for a total of only 5 throws per event)*

Friday: Travel / Warm-up / Rest

Saturday: Compete

Sunday: Travel / Warm-up / Recovery Work *This is broken down further in Throws Training section. This is an ideal schedule, but adjustments will need to be made according to time

constraints and travel requirements. When time constraints interfere, prioritize

training so that when the season begins, throwing is equally as important as

strength training. Do a proper warm-up, a major lift, and concentrate on

throwing. A little soreness while throwing can be beneficial to draw attention to

your position during a throw. When my legs are sore, I know that I am using them

as I should be. If time forces you to cut a day, do so at the end of the week and

start the next week at Day 1.

One of the things that I do while training the throws is I typically start with pretty

light effort and mark the throw with an object. I use a marking flag from a

hardware store. Every throw I just try and add enough to get past the last throw.

This continues till I have to be all out to make an improvement. Basically the idea

is to build slowly so you can work on the things you need to and keep adding just

a bit.

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OUTRO Again let me reiterate I love throwing. I love talking about throwing and being

around those who also love it. Just like training it is not just something I enjoy but

it is part of me. Getting to travel and compete all over the world is always

something I have wanted to do. I am getting a shot at it with the Highland Games

where I could not have with Track and Field. I have made some great friendships

through the games, and look forward to those that will be made in the future.

Enjoy the work that comes along with throwing. Nothing comes easy it is going to

be the accumulation of inches and half inches that eventually turn into feet.

Learn to compete when it is on the line. This is something that will carry with you

in life more than anything. The confidence in yourself to know that you will

perform when it counts is priceless. Learn to work through and around injuries

while still maintaining the course. The beauty of throwing is you can do it for a

long time.

Take these steps and work on applying and mastering one at a time. Build on the

progress slowly. Keep chasing your goals and never back away from them. See

you all on the field.

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Acknowledgements

This past year has been an exciting one for me. Not just as an athlete but in life. I

want to thank my amazing wife Ashley for always supporting me in my pursuits. I

can’t imagine my life without you. I know I constantly tell you how awesome you

are but here it is again. I am so excited that we are building our house and can’t

wait to build more memories in it with you. Thank you sincerely from bottom of

my heart.

Andy you have been as always my best friend. I am fortunate that you and I have

similar taste in hobbies and both love talking about training ideas and philosophy.

Getting to travel and compete with you has been something I will always

treasure. Stoked to continue sharing the field with you all season and the ones to

come. You always help me push myself o be better on the field and in the gym.

Mom and Pop, thank you for always being supportive of my decisions, and

backing me through it all. You guys are what pointed me toward athletics at an

early age and I am forever grateful. I am glad that I spent my childhood out on a

field somewhere running and jumping and playing than sitting in front of the TV.

Jim thanks for the guidance. If there is anyone who has pushed me to write two

books now it has been you. I could never have imagined the learning experience

that comes with forcing yourself to put it down on paper and stand by it. Thanks

for having the convictions you do in life and training. These simple principals will

always be part of my basic philosophy.

Steve from the 1st time I made my way into Iron Sport till now you have always

been a good friend. Since then you have always had an interest in my throws and

give me the ins and outs of what to expect as a guy coming up the ranks in

Highland Games.

Bert you have forever made Columbia SC. one of my favorite places to travel. You

guys are doing everything right. You take care of your employees as family and it

shows. There is a passion that is behind your products that other companies can

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try to replicate but never will. Thanks you for always being an ear to chat with as

well as one of my brothers in training.

Everyone at Red Stick Crossfit, you have only been part of my regime for a shot

amount of time, But it has added another level of desire to train that I needed to

find again. It has been years since I have enjoyed training regularly anywhere but

my garage. Just being around a positive group who work as hard as you all do is

motivating every day. Keep it up I love watching the place grow into something

Baton Rouge has desperately needed.

My sponsors have all been awesome and have helped me out tremendously in

chasing a passion that is lifting and throwing. I am getting to exploit a loop hole

that allows moderately talented guys like me see the planet and compete at a

high level. If you can support them please do they take care of our sport.

USPLabs, Conquest Nutrition, Juggernaut Strength, Clevenger Sheafs, Mike

Landrich implements, Sport Kilt, and Red Stick Crossfit.Thank you to everyone in

the world that has let me train with them, sleep on their floor, eat their food, and

pick their brain about training. You all have helped make me who I am.

FIN

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Also check out my other Ebook at www.mattvincent.net .

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