mauritius 101

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Your guide to the indian ocean’s tropical paradise

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2 Mauritius 101

Mauritius has long been the destination of choice

for travellers seeking a slice of paradise. This

beautiful dot in the Indian Ocean, comprises of lush

green land, majestic waterfalls, stunning mountains

and postcard-perfect turquoise waters.

It all kicked off for the island commonly dubbed

‘magical’ in 975 AD when some enterprising Arab

sailors discovered the place and named it Dinarobin

- The Silver Island. But having sunned themselves

on the beaches and gorged on the unfortunate

Dodo, the Arabs vacated the island and it was a

further 500 odd years before its next claimants, the

Portuguese, showed up. It was then wrestled into

the hands of the Dutch, then the French and lastly

the British, before Mauritius achieved independence

in 1968 and embarked on a more sensible tourism

drive that still shows no sign of slowing.

To give you the edge over your fellow visitors,

we’ve pulled together 101 must-know locations

in Mauritius, ranging from the pick of the hotels to

the top tables to dine at, and the things you simply

have to experience while there. And to make it

simple, we’ve divided the 101 recommendations

into sections. All you need to do is circle your

favourites, book your trip and pack for the holiday

of a lifetime. What’s more, simply turn to page 24 of

this guide and you can even win yourself a free stay

on the island. Enjoy.

Mauritius 101Welcome to

Mauritius 101 3

Annual dates for your diary

0The number of dodos left on Mauritius. The

flightless bird was eaten into extinction.

2 The number of million dollars Mauritius paid to return a Blue Penny Stamp to its home on

the island.

4 The number of

individual names that the island was given before being named Mauritius in 1814. The Arabs

named it Dinarobin, the Portuguese Swan

Island, The Dutch Prins Maurits van

Nassaeuiland and the French L’Ile Maurice.

7The number of

colours that form the multi-hued sands

known as the Earths of Chamarel, one of

the island’s geological wonders.

1,000The height in

metres that the towering Black River Piton – the highest

mountain on the island – rises up above

sea level.

Mauritian Icons

Robert SurcoufThe swashbuckling King of the Corsairs, who used Mauritius as a base for capturing no fewer than 47 ships. His reputation as a tough nut was so great that by the end of his career, British vessels would drop their flags in defeat as soon as they realised they were facing him. Legend has it that he once took on twelve Prussian soldiers in a fight, armed with nothing but a snooker cue and later beat eleven of them in duels, leaving one alive just so he could tell the tale. He evaded capture till his eventual death.

The Dodo The island of Mauritius is the birthplace and final resting ground of the Dodo, that flightless, hapless beast-cum-metaphor. Distantly related to both pigeons and doves, its Achilles heel was its thick-headed fearlessness in the face of hordes of hungry sailors; despite their apparently unpleasant taste, dodos were munched into extinction in the late 17th century not only by humans but by the rats, cats and boars they brought with them on their ships. The poor dodo.

Sir Seewoosagur RamgoolamThe island’s first post-independence PM, Ramgoolam was a huge admirer of Gandhi, and used the same tactics of non-violent protest to help ease Mauritius out from British control in 1968. He was educated at UCL and was something of a renaissance man, splitting his time in London between medicine, poetry (he was great friends with TS Eliot) and politics. Once in power he introduced things like universal education, pensions, and electricity.

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November La Regatta Every November, Mauritius’ crystal clear

lagoon, Mahébourg, fills with all types of

sailing vessels, including the country’s

traditional wooden fishing boats, Pirogues,

for the annual regatta: a lively affair that

always draws a good crowd.

May Crossroads of FlavoursAn event for gourmets to sink their teeth

into, Crossroads of Flavours sees the best

chefs on the island get together to cook up

a storm of delicious food for tourists.

DecemberFestival International KreolThe island’s colourful celebration of creole

culture includes country-wide events

ranging from poetry readings to night-long

parties. An event guaranteed to put you in

the holiday mood.

AugustKiteivalThis wonderful watersport of kite surfing

enjoys its own annual festival in Mauritius,

filling the sky above the island’s coast with

a riot of neon colour

4 Mauritius 101

Mauritius is the archetypal paradise island, a verdant, sun-soaked land ringed by blindingly-white sand beaches and sparkling, warm waters. It’s also dotted with a wealth of super-stylish resort hotels, comparable to the best hotels on earth.

The Hotels

Mauritius is home to the world-famous Le

Touessrok, which has long been a magnet for

well-heeled sun-seekers. It packs in a plethora of

outstanding attractions, everything from a superb

championship golf course – Bernard Langer

was the brains behind its design – to a serene

spa – Givenchy lends its name to this – and an

award-wining line up of restaurants led by Vineet

Bhatia’s magnificent eatery Saffron. But we’re

particularly fond of the resort’s own private island,

Ilot Mangenie, which you’ll access via the briefest

of boat rides and where you’ll find nothing but a

sprinkling of secluded sun loungers and frothy

waves lapping at the shore. Idyllic.

On the northwest coast of the island you’ll find

the equally stunning Grand Mauritian Resort &

Spa, which stands close to the city’s entertainment

hub, Grand Baie, on a fine stretch of beach that’s

lined with hammock-strewn trees. It houses the

largest swimming pool in Mauritius, a superb spa,

award-winning restaurants (Season is a must-dine)

and typically grand rooms: we prescribe a stay in

the fabulously outsized Grand Mauritian Spa Suite.

It’s also a good bet if you have the family in tow as

it boasts an excellent kids’ club for tiny tots and all

manner of water-based activities for teens to enjoy.

You’ll find plenty of aqua-based activities on

offer over at the wonderfully elegant The Oberoi,

Mauritius, where you can sail, windsurf, water-

ski or dive. But exertions aside, this is arguably

the most tranquil resort on the island – absolutely

ideal for the romantically inclined. Here you’ll find

meandering flagstone pathways amid lush gardens

and beautiful rooms, too – we love the thatched-

roofed Luxury Pavilion. An acclaimed spa and the

outstanding Restaurant – at night its terrace is

illuminated by flaming torches and its tables look

out onto the calm sea – are other notable pulls.

Another hotel geared up for honeymooners is

Le Meridien Ile Maurice, where the Royal Suite is

the ultimate abode. We’re talking an immaculately

dressed duplex apartment with heart-tugging views

of the ocean and its own in-house Jacuzzi. Privacy

at a more wallet-friendly price can also be had in

the ‘Nirvana’ wing of the resort, which has a private

pool and beach and a no-children policy. Not that

this should deter families: the main part of the hotel

is very family friendly and has a dedicated kids’ club

to boot.

If you’re looking for somewhere steeped in

Mauritian tradition, head to Sugar Beach Resort.

It enjoyed a major overhaul – to the tune of some

$22 million – at the end of 2008 and is now one

of the finest five star properties on the island.

Spanning twelve hectares, the resort’s plantation-

style architecture celebrates the island’s heritage,

Mauritius 101 5

Le Touessrok, MauritiusLe Touessrok is one of the world’s truly great resorts – the essenceof cool, modern elegance, imbued by the cultural warmth of tropicalMauritius. It is set upon a beautiful stretch of white – sand coastlineoverlooking the tranquil Trou d’Eau Douce bay. Across the waterare two exquisite islands, including the spectacular championshipgolf course by Bernhard Langer. A wonderful array of restaurantsand bars have been designed to cater for all tastes, moods andoccasions. And in order to indulge in a real rejuvenating cure, theglamourous Givenchy Spa is the ideal refuge.

Three private villas, designed for maximum privacy and comfort,offer the highest level of service with a dedicated chef and a teamof waiting staff to make sure that all the special wishes of guestsare met.

For more information contact your local travel agent

www.letouessrokresort.com

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6 Mauritius 101

which adds considerable weight to the resort’s

undoubted charm. But while its architecture is

a nod to the past, its amenities are every bit the

epitome of modern splendour. You’ll be particularly

impressed by the super-sized spa, which boasts

the island’s only hammam – it’s excellent - and a

clutch of sublime spa suites replete with flotation

pools and manicured gardens.

Neighbouring Sugar Beach Resort on island’s

west coast is the ever-popular La Pirogue. Like

its neighbour, La Pirogue celebrates Mauritius’

heritage – pirogue is the name of the traditional

fishing vessel – but this is also a resort with a rich

history of its own, having opened over thirty years

ago. Here, levels of service are exceptional. And

given the fact that a number of staff have worked at

the hotel since it first swung open its doors, there is

a warm and welcoming family feel about the place.

The rooms are particularly charming; nice-sized

thatched-roof cottages fashioned from volcanic

rock and splendidly decorated.

Outstanding accommodation is also the order

of the day at the plush Four Seasons Resort

Mauritius at Anahita, an all-villa resort that also

lists among its many amenities an Ernie Els-

designed golf course and an over-water spa that

arguably trumps all rivals on the island. This is also

a fine venue for gourmets: indulge in excellent Italian

fare at the oh-so-romantic open-air Aquapazza,

which stands atop a lagoon on the resort’s

beautuful private island.

Another pristine golf course supported by superb

dwellings – think chic, African-themed, ocean-

side rooms – awaits visitors to the Heritage Golf

& Spa. We’re fans of the super-spacious villas,

which have a specially-decorated children’s room

in addition to two large bedrooms – all en-suite – a

private swimming pool and peaceful gazebo, where

This page: The Oberoi, Mauritius

‘You’ll find plenty of aqua-based activities on offer over at the wonderfully elegantOberoi, Mauritius, where you can sail, windsurf,water-skior dive’.

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8 Mauritius 101

you can sit and soak up the sounds of the sea.

On the south west coast, an area of rich pickings

for nature lovers, is the Mövenpick Resort and

Spa. It’s a resort defined by the ten acres of tropical

gardens it stands in and rooms that are sprinkled

around coconut trees and blooming bougainvilleas.

The food doesn’t disappoint either: we enjoyed a

great meal at Le Grand Caze.

When planning your trip to Mauritius you’ll almost

certainly come across the name Veranda Resorts.

It operates four hotels across the island under

the Veranda banner and a further two via affiliated

brands. As such, its resorts cater for the full range

of visitors. Honeymooners – or those simply seeking

a romantic escape – should head to Veranda

Paul & Virginie on the island’s north coast for a

wonderful thatched-roof-dotted resort possessing

postcard-perfect views across a sun-soaked

lagoon. Another sand-strewn escape is Veranda

Palmar Beach. But this is also a resort for those

seeking aqua adventures, with the full gamut of

water-based activities on offer – if you don’t hold

a PADI, you should definitely take the chance

while here to learn how to dive. Veranda Pointe

Aux Biches is a real family favourite – nearly half

the rooms are family-sized – with children likely to

take an instant shine to the resort’s promotion of

a barefoot policy, while slap bang in the heart of

the lively Grand Baie you’ll find the colonial-style

Veranda Grand Baie: perfect for those who like to

explore beyond the confines of their hotel.

Getting Around...

When booking your hotel you’ll almost be certainly be asked if you want to be collected from the

airport, and though this may be the preferred choice of the majority, others prefer to hire a car so

that they’ll be mobile throughout their holiday. This is something we recommend - Mauritius is a

relatively small island and you can explore its rich offerings very easily by car. There are ten car

hire companies at the airport and Avis, Hertz and Sixt have all got decent fleets. We suggest a cool

little drop-top Mini. Just be mindful that though plentiful, petrol stations tend to close at 6pm on

the dot across the island.

Right: Le TouessrokBelow and below right: Four Seasons

Resort Mauritius at Anihita

Mauritius 101 9

10 Mauritius 101

Unlike the Middle East, Mauritius isn’t big on glitzy

malls or cutting-edge designer stores. There are a

few Parisian-style boutiques in some of the smarter

hotels, but in the main shopping in Mauritius

is a laidback, bargainous affair involving lots of

locally-produced goods. Artisanal specialities

include diamond jewellery, glassware and incredibly

detailed model ships. You’ll also find lots of highly-

discounted factory outlet clobber on offer, much of

it seasons out of date: it’s well worth a browse as

there are some real gems dotted among the dross.

Grand Baie’s central drag has a dedicated

Shopping Village, where you’ll find a series of fun

little stores in which to abuse your credit card.

There’s River Woods for preppy beach wear,

motto-ridden Ts and light summer jackets - ideal for

slinging over your shoulder in case of a downpour.

Then there’s Hemisphere Sud for handmade

leather bags, wallets and diaries, and Equateur for

tasteful tropical shirts (yep, it is possible). Finally,

don’t miss out on Montali for stylish womenswear

and Kavanagh for diamond jewellery set in

platinum and gold.

The factory outlets of Route Royale in Arsenal –

in the North of the island, not far from Grand Baie –

sell designer products off at greatly-reduced prices.

There are ten or so stores here, all selling a similar

mix of stuff. The biggest and best of the bunch

is K.N.E. Rayinale where you’ll find D&G, (with

a particular emphasis on handbags and wallets),

Chanel, Versace and Armani. A couple of hundred

metres down the road you’ll find the slightly

lower-key Designer Paradise, which specialises

in GF Ferré, Abercrombie & Fitch and upmarket

bikinis. The neighbouring Designer Depot sells

a similar range of names, plus miniature sailboats

and, somewhat oddly, bongo drums. Once you’ve

stocked up on discount clothing you might like to

swing by interiors emporium Piment Rouge, which

does a nice line in stylish lamps, bowls, stenciled

pots and pillows.

A medium-sized mall in downtown Port Louis,

Caudan is home to lots of homegrown stores and

a scattering of international names, spread over

a series of boulevards. Hit up Out of Africa for

dresses, Indya Vogue for brightly-coloured saris,

Koki for big, loud shirts for men and Billabong

Girls for outlandish jewellery. If you’re in need

of beachwear, you’ll find a bunch of good value

offerings from Billabong, O’Neill, Rip Curl and

Quicksilver. Then there’s the Mauritius Glass

Gallery for ethically-conscious trinkets made from

recycled glass heated and shaped using recycled

cooking oil. There’s also a dedicated Craft Market

of some forty stalls, featuring rugs, bags and

pashminas, plus a surfeit of carved wooden dodos,

A holiday’s not a holiday unless you buy a few presents for yourself and the people back home. You’ll find that Mauritius has a wealth of souvenir-stocked stores, where you can pick up everything from local artworks to discount designer garb.

The Shopping

Mauritius 101 11

Left: Port LouisBelow: Adamas

coconut knickknacks and bottles of coloured sand

from Chamarel. And don’t leave without checking

out Tea Route, home to scale models of 17th

century sailing ships, proper three-masted beauties

equipped with rigging, flags and miniature cannons.

Where Le Caudan is slick and westernised, Port

Louis’ Central Market is unabashedly no-frills

and local. Huge piles of spiky fruit, vibrant chilis

and dried vanilla are enthusiastically hawked from

tiny stalls and the air is filled with noisy banter. You

may well be picked up by a salesman from the

spice shops which line one side of the market,

and persuaded over to look at their tiffin tins and

presentation cases of saffron – expect lots of

football chat and a free print-out of a curry recipe to

loosen you up, followed by feigned consternation

and teeth-sucking from the owner when you start

to haggle.

Le Ruisseau is a lovely, low-rise complex of

60 boutiques, more chilled out than Caudan and

with a smarter bunch of stores. Work your way

around, stopping off for regular refueling sessions

at Le Kiosk Café, with its pleasant outdoor terrace

- if you’re there for lunch, the gourmet paninis

are a sound bet. At Delire you’ll find a barrage

of colourful bikinis and sarongs, at Villebrequin

there are racks of upmarket swimshorts and at

Altitude they’ve got cool, original Ts and pretty

cutaway summer dresses. Visit Passion for delicate

necklaces and rings, featuring diamonds, zirconia

and local shells and the small but imaginative

Xxbelle for Euro-style fashion. You can pick up

some local art from the gallery and buckets of

cashmere and Abercrombie & Fitch from the

factory outlet. The real standout for souvenirs is

Manshree, where you’ll find gorgeous light Indian

dresses, kaftans, pashminas, elaborately-decorated

pillow cases, rich swathes of silk, bolts of velvet,

wood carvings and outsized solitaire kits with

speckled marbles.

Diamond Geezers...

Buy jewellery in Mauritius and you won’t be charged VAT – just bring your passport and air

ticket with you to prove you’re a tourist, or else collect the VAT back at the airport. The

biggest jeweller is Adamas – visit them in Floreal (686 5246) and Grand Baie (269 1609).

They cut and set the diamonds themselves, which helps keep the prices highly attractive.

12 Mauritius 101

Once you’re done with your shopping you’ll want

to check out the island’s sights. And while there are

few architectural wonders to marvel at in Mauritius

there is still plenty to see. Alongside places of

amazing natural beauty, there are a set of museums

and exhibitions which showcase the island’s

history and heritage. Head to Black River Gorges

national park in the south west of the island, and

you can check out the geological wonder that is the

Earths of Chamarel. The volcanic rock in the area

has been eroded and weathered over the millenia,

producing an amazing array of multicoloured

sands – as you stroll along you’ll see seven colours

including yellow, blue and green, which create

an appealing, alien landscape. Just nearby is the

imposing Chamarel waterfall, an 83-metre beauty

where you can take some fantastic snaps.

The Aquarium, on Coastal Road, Pointe Aux

Piments, claims to offer visitors a unique experience

‘without the fear of being eaten’. It’s only one

of many advantages of a trip to this low tech

attraction, a key stop-off on any tour of the north.

There are no bells or whistles here – it’s all about

the fish, housed in simple tanks, adorned only with

earnest missives about their genus and habits.

But what fish! To a soundtrack of crashing waves

(slightly superfluous given that the beach is directly

opposite) you’ll check out the humbug-esque blue

and yellow cerulean damsels, the ruffle-wearing

devil firefish, Jurassic era yellowmouth moray,

luminous palette surgeonfish and vicious-looking

ribbon morays. By the time you get to the Picasso

triggerfish, a wonderful multicoloured beast with

eyes halfway down its back, you’ll have fallen

in love with the Indian Ocean and its glamorous

inhabitants. Weave your way past the tank of

frenetic silver moonys and you’ll hit the pièce de

resistance – a supersized tank housed in its own

hut where green sea turtles, white tip reef sharks

and understandably nervous-looking mermaid eels

shimmy about to a backing of aquatic mood music.

Over in Port Louis, on Rue du Vieux Conseil,

you’ll find the kooky Musée de la Photographie.

It’s crammed with ancient cameras (of the old

school, ‘head under a blanket, hand holding up a

flash’ style), plus thousands of photographs (and

even some daguerrotypes) of Mauritius. The island,

it seems, has always been in love with photography:

one of the first people to buy a camera when they

went on sale in 1839 was a Mauritian, Fedinand

Wöhrnitz. The glimpse into the development of the

island and the life of its inhabitants is fascinating.

For a chilled afternoon of strolling in the sunshine,

hit the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical

Garden, better known as Pamplemousses

Garden. It’s a 37-acre plot in Pamplemousses, in

Once you’ve settled into your resort you’ll want to inspect the best attractions - both natural and manmade - and museums Mauritius has to offer. Helpfully, the island’s size means it’s possible to see its sights in a single visit.

The Sights

Mauritius 101 13

the north of the country, and features rolling hills,

tranquil lakes, and an onslaught of tropical plants.

You can take an organised tour (guides wait in a

special hut by the entrance and call out as you pass

by), or simply make your way around on your own,

checking out the 80 different species of palm trees,

the pond filled with tyre-sized water lilies and the

aromatic spice plantations. There is also a small

enclosure filled with ultra-cute deer and a score of

giant turtles – although in contrast to places like La

Vanille Reserve you can’t go and pet any of them.

History buffs keen to learn about the island life

of yesteryear should try L’Aventure du Sucre.

Normally the prospect of visiting an attraction

entitled ‘The Adventure of Sugar’ would have you

making a legitimate dash for the hills. Overcome

this natural impulse if you can, because this place,

located at Beau Plan near Pamplemousses offers a

great introduction to the history of Mauritius. Sure,

there’s a fair amount of technical information, plus

some slightly tenuous connections – Nostradamus

is pressed into the service of sugar promotion at

one point –and feeble games – a ‘spot the sugar’

cartoon for kids marks a particular lowpoint. But

in the main, it’s a well thought-out museum which

takes you through the whole rambunctious history

of the island, with its corsairs, epidemics, rats,

refinieries, slaving and sugar booms. Anyone who

likes ancient engineering will love the big main room

filled with tugboats and distilling contraptions, not

to mention the decommissioned heavy machinery

and steam engines which dot the grounds outside.

The gift shop is good fun too – pick up some natty

sugar t-shirts, homemade lollies and no fewer than

twelve types of sugar, from the lightest demerera to

thick, dark muscovado brun.

The Blue Penny Stamp Museum, next to Le

Caudan Waterfront in Port Louis, gives you a good

overview of the country’s social, artistic and stampy

history, with lots of old maps, paintings – check

out the drawings of Port Louis when it was little

more than a pair of sheds – and etchings of the

island through the ages. The centrepiece exhibits

are the one and two penny stamps, the first issued

in Mauritius, bought back for the nation at a cost

of two million dollars. There’s a nice little museum

shop, too, for all your mug and postcard needs.

Down on the south coast at Rivière des Anguilles

you’ll find La Vanille Reserve des Mascareignes,

a captivating nature sanctuary filled with exotic

animals. First stop is the insectarium, where you’ll

find 23,000 species of butterfly and creepy-crawly

– some live, some mounted. Next up are the

water-filled network of pools containing 2,000 Nile

crocodiles: you can pick up and play with baby

crocs and, if you visit on a Wednesday, you can

watch them tucking into their weekly helping of

chicken. The whole site is a joy to walk around,

filled as it is with monkeys, deer, geckoes and a

whole army of tropical plants.

Below: Pamplemousses GardenBelow right: Chamarel waterfall

The Sights

14 Mauritius 101

Part of Mauritius’ gastronomic appeal is the intense

taste of the ingredients used, particularly the

seafood – you’ll not find fresher octopus, prawns or

langoustines anywhere in the world. Once you’ve

tried a local pineapple, you’ll never look at an air-

freighted, plastic-encased supermarket number in

the same way again. Chances are you’ll be on half

or full board at your hotel, so you may not want

to eat out a huge amount. When you do, though,

you’ll find a host of wonderful independent and

hotel restaurants – read for our pick of the best.

While you can always get a table at an independent

place, hotel restaurants can be a little trickier,

and you’ll need to phone in advance to make a

reservation and get your name on the security

gate. If you’re staying at a sister hotel (i.e. one in

the same chain) you’ll have no problem getting in,

but if you’re not they may not have space as they

prioritise inhouse guests. Still, if you book a few

days in advance you should be fine. If you’re in the

towns or on the beach, you’ll have the opportunity

to try some Mauritian street food. By and large

this is good and very cheap but you should always

make sure to take your cue from the locals and only

go for stalls and vendors which have drawn a line

of customers – the quieter vendors are less popular

for a reason and their nibbles may leave you with an

upset stomach.

There are plenty of places to enjoy dinner by the

beach. At La Goélette, in the Beachcomber Royal

Palm Hotel, you’ll find a Eurocentric menu tinged

with exotic spices and a head chef whose pedigree

includes manning the kitchens at La Tour D’Argent,

Paris’ most prestigious restaurant. You can’t go far

wrong with your choices – make sure to include

the exquisite marinaded lamb with green gnocchi

on your order. Don’t leave without getting properly

stuck in to the cheeseboard, knocking back

wedges of fine fromage with slabs of black olive

and onion bread and lashings of fruity olive oil.

Another unfathomably lovely spot that has

everything you want for soaking up an Indian

Ocean sunset is The Restaurant, at The Oberoi,

Mauritius. Head to your table on the edge of a

palm-thatched, open-sided restaurant lit by flaming

torches dotted about the grounds. The service is

among the best on the island and the menu offers

a delightful spread of local and European food. The

stillness of the evening is broken only by murmured

chat from neighbouring tables and croaking frogs in

the middle distance.

Over at Le Barrachois in the Constance

Prince Maurice Hotel you’ll find a restaurant with

a difference. This place is fabulous – reached by

means of an elongated boardwalk, it sits out in the

Belle Mare bay, floating on a series of pontoons.

Brace your tastebuds: you’re going to love the food in Mauritius. As with the rest of the island’s culture, it’s a win-ning mix of French, Indian, Chinese and Creole – a heady fu-sion of haute cuisine, spice and blistering tropical flavours.

The Restaurants

Mauritius 101 15

You’ll enjoy the slight rocking of your table and

the easy access to the starry night sky, but better

than all this is the teeming Mauritian sealife that

swishes around the bottom of the restaurant, lured

by the bright spotlights that pick them out. Shoals

of fish chase each other, jump up for bits of your

delicious bread, and generally lark about much to

the amusement of the diners. The food is light, tasty

French with a smattering of Creole and the seafood

is wonderful.

Another place for sensational offerings plucked

from the ocean is Tides Restaurant at Sugar

Beach. Here the finest catches of the day are

presented on decorative slabs of ice, giving you

the opportunity to select your own platter from a

stunning selection of oysters, shellfish and mussels.

We heartily recommend the super fresh sashimi.

Global gourmet heavyweights are also on the

menu in Mauritius. Spoon des îles at One&Only

Le Saint Geran is the tropical outpost of Alain

Ducasse’s culinary empire (and the first of his ever-

growing brigade of international restaurants), Spoon

is a beautiful spot decked out by design guru

Philippe Starck. Unlike Ducasse’s more traditional

bistrots in Paris, Spoon has a modern, international

menu, featuring intriguing cooking methods and

a wide-ranging set of influences, including local

Creole. This is a spot for serious foodies: perfect if

you’re looking for some international genius from

France’s favourite chef.

A sophisticated spice experience orchestrated

by Vineet Bhatia, the creator of London’s acclaimed

Zaika, Safran at Le Touessrok is a romantic, softly-

Clockwise from left:Le Château Restaurant, Le Barrachois, The Restaurant, Spoon des îles

16 Mauritius 101

‘The mix of Mauritian ingredients and Indian cooking methods used at Vineet Bhatia’s Safran results in dreamy dishes like palm heart koftas and tiger prawn masala, shot through with seams of exotic flavour. Delicious’

Left: La GoéletteBelow: Safran

lit restaurant built around a central tandoori oven

and a show kitchen. Outsized picture windows give

you a view out over the Indian Ocean while you eat,

and unintrusive music and slick service complete

the package. The mix of Mauritian ingredients and

Indian cooking methods results in dreamy dishes

like palm heart koftas and tiger prawn masala, shot

through with seams of exotic flavour. Delicious.

For something incredibly romantic and more than

a touch special, head to Le Château Restaurant

at Domaine de Bel Ombre. It’s housed in a 19th

century mansion surrounded by ancient gardens,

a mountain and a golf course. You can book up

for high tea or lunch, but it’s loveliest at dinner:

enjoy a note-perfect French meal in the main dining

room, decked out with antique wood-paneled

walls, and then head out to the veranda to check

out the stars. It’s the ideal spot for suitors to pop

the question – none but the steeliest of hearts

could refuse a post-dinner proposal made here,

particularly if the chef’s on form.

If you’re determined to remain health-conscious

on your holiday, you can always opt for the

innovative dishes on offer at Seven Colours

Energy Cuisine, which you’ll find housed in

Heritage Golf & Spa. Here, chefs infuse dishes with

edible essential oils, floral waters and hydrolats

to produce truly unique flavours. You’ll also get to

sample a huge selection of the finest local-grown

fruit and vegetables.

Here’s a swift factoid for philately fans: the

Mauritian Blue Penny stamp is one of the most rare

and valuable in the world. It was the first British

Empire stamp to be produced outside of Britain

and is made yet more valuable by the fact that

it was produced with a printing error – they put

the words ‘post office’ rather than ‘post paid’ on

it – which apparently makes thousands of pounds

of difference to collectors, who go misty-eyed at

the very thought of it. Equally exquisite – although

Mauritius 101 17

significantly easier to gain access to – is the Blue

Penny Café, at Constance Belle Mare Plage Hotel.

It’s a restaurant that sticks up for local Creole food,

presenting it gourmet-style in glorious, regularly

updated degustation menus which zip you through

the best the cuisine has to offer before depositing

you on the other side, sated, smiling and in need

of a delicious stogie from their cigar cabinet. The

waterfalls which surround the restaurant, filling it

with the sounds of falling water, are definitely a nice

touch, too.

Looking for a good value bite outside of the hotel

restaurants? We’ve scoured the island to find the

best signature dishes on offer: make sure not to

miss out on these gourmet highlights. Let’s start

things off with something spicy. We’re big fans of

the delicious and wonderfully-named angry duck at

Thai Foon (Topize, Royal Road, Grand Baie, 269

1110), a tender, spicy delight that’s perfect for a

tasty lunch after a morning’s spree over on Sunset

Boulevard. Then for lovers of Indian food there’s

the subtly-spiced murg makham wala at Salaam

Bombay (Royal Road, Moka, 433 1003), a saucy

chicken dish best served with a side order punnet

of cheesey, spinachy palak paneer. If you like a bit

of a show with your lunch, you should definitely

make the effort to head over for the teppanyaki

at Sakura (Royal Road, Grand Baie, 263 8092),

prepared with flamboyant abandon by the chef,

who whips diced veg and strips of tender chicken,

beef (or, for an extra charge, lobster, calamari

and prawns) about on a hot plate, creating a host

of zingily fresh dishes. For a taste of the island,

the authentic Creole rougaille at Cooleen (Royal

Road, Grand Baie, 263 8569), served with rice

and relishes (warning, some of them are extremely

hot), is a real winner. The local curries and lobster

dishes (surprisingly cheap considering the size

of the portions) aren’t half bad either. Meanwhile,

for delicate, toothsome homemade gnocchi and

pastas try Zucca (Ruisseau Creole, Black River,

483 7003), a sleek, attractive trattoria run by

bustling, charismatic Italian restaurateur Paola.

Moving further afield, if you’re into your Central

American treats, you should make sure to order the

sabana at the Iguana Lounge (Royal Road, Grand

Baie, 263 5758), a cheap and cheerful Mexican

restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Sabana is

Mexican-style sliced beef with rice and melted

cheese: fantastic stuff.

Mauritian food is all about just-landed fish, and

you really can’t beat the freshly-prepared catch

of the day at La Langouste Grisée (Main Road,

Pointe aux Canonniers, 263 1035), a charming

restaurant with a focus on top Indian Ocean

seafood. If you’re down in Flic en Flac on the west

coast, there’s the excellent sweet and sour fish at

Domaine Anna (Medine, Flic en Flac, 453 9650),

a waterside Chinese restaurant that’s good for

families.

Equally adorable is the simple but delicious

crabmeat and apple salad at Auberg’inn (Main

Road, Poste Lafayette, 410 5354), a lovely little

place near the beach, which also does a very good

line in pizzas, pastas and grilled fish. Last but not

least, we strongly urge you not to miss out on the

delicate risotto and tuna tartare at Le Pescatore

(Route Côtiere, Trou-Aux-Biches 265 6337), where

you can eat outdoors on the terrace, looking out

over the pretty beach. Their grilled fish is another

good option. - it’s always plucked fresh from the

ocean, so tastes divine.

Tropical Tastes...

The traditional food in Mauritius can be utterly brilliant but a little baffling. Where to begin? We

advise starting out with a helping of cari cerfs – that’s deer curry, don’t you know. It’s an intensely-

flavoured stew of venison and lilva beans, with lots of tomatoes, bay leaves and an undercurrent

of coriander. Heavenly, if done well. You should also try rougaille. It’s the Mauritian national

dish and comes in many forms, the best of which is the saltfish version, a top concoction of fish,

tomatoes and herbs, served with lots of pickles and dal.

18 Mauritius 101

The raft of activities offered to tourists in Mauritius

tend to fall under the management of White Sand

Tours – you’ll probably find one of their reps in your

hotel – and they’re your best bet for heading out to

sea, offering a couple of great catamaran cruises.

The first is Eastern Sailing Magic, a full day’s jaunt

along the east coast including a stop-off to check

out Ile aux Cerfs and the Grand River waterfalls.

The second is Northern Islands Sailing, another

full day’s outing, including stops at Les Palisades

and the sheltered parts of Flat Island and Gunner’s

Coin Island. Both cruises include opportunities for

swimming and snorkelling (flippers and masks are

provided), drinks, transportation to and from your

hotel, and an onboard barbecue lunch prepared

and served by the crew. For a super-romantic

evening cruise, consider a trip down the Black River

aboard the spacious catamaran O’Plezir. You can

watch the breathtaking sunset while gliding past the

awe-inspiring Rempart Mountain and Black River

Range. Drinks, snacks and canapés are served on

board during the 90 minute cruise.

You can also hop aboard O’Plezir for a visit to

the home of a pod of dolphins in Tamarin Bay.

The dolphins are a delight, although sadly you

can’t swim with them as they leg it as soon as you

get in the water. There is also the opportunity for

some spectacular snorkelling during the day (all

equipment is provided) and a barbecue lunch is

prepared and served by the crew on board.

A trip out in a glass-bottomed boat is rather

like snorkelling without the work and without getting

wet. You just cosy up in the boat and stare in

slack-jawed wonder at the parade of tropical fish

and kaleidoscopic coral that whizzes by beneath

your feet as you bounce along the waves. The only

downside is that the glass makes it tough to take

good photos. Your hotel may well lay on glass-

bottomed experiences for guests: if not, you can

arrange a trip through Fragawills (453 8897) in Flic

en Flac.

But if you’d rather swim with the fishes, there’s

some fabulous snorkelling all over Mauritius,

starting just a few yards from the beach. Anywhere

it’s unsafe to take the plunge will have an obvious

Dangerous Bathing sign – everywhere else is prime

snorkelling territory. Expect to see exquisitely-

coloured corals, angel fish, lionfish, clownfish,

bonefish and surgeonfish among dozens of

others. Snorkelling off the beach at Flic en Flac is

particularly brilliant. You’ll find that the majority of

the big hotels have snorkelling excursions by boat

to reefs further out at sea: if yours doesn’t, you can

organise a trip through Tropical Dream Tours in Flic

en Flac (453 8480) who will take you by speedboat

to the Aquarium site on the west coast.

This island is abuzz with activities – head out and enjoy its beautiful waters, wander up its gorgeous mountains, meet some of its highly exotic animal inhabitants and make sure to leave time for a round or two of golf on its pristine courses.

The Activities

Mauritius 101 19

Helmet diving is a brilliantly bonkers way of

seeing the sea. A big, round, see-through helmet

is placed over your head and some law of physics

traps the air inside so that you can breathe normally

even when walking along the ocean floor 20 feet

under the surface. If you’re scared of diving or

snorkelling, this is a great way to overcome your

fear – the divers accompanying you are excellent

and walk you through the process. Once at the

bottom you wander around, marvel at the fish,

feed them with some bread and have your photo

taken. You can set up a helmet dive through White

Sand Tours at Trou aux Biches on the north coast.

If that all sounds like a bit too much effort, you can

arrange a similar viewing of the ocean floor with

White Sand Tours’ underwater scooter rides.

Charge around the watery depths for 30 minutes,

at 9-10 feet below the surface on a scooter with

a transparent dome covering your head and

shoulders. The scooters seat two so you can also

talk to your partner as you zoom about.

If you’ve got your PADI you’re all set to dive in at

some of the terrific sites off the island, where you’ll

see a whole new world of wondrous sea creatures,

including sharks, stingrays and strikingly coloured

fish. If your hotel doesn’t organise trips, try Sea

Urchin Diving Center (913 0208) in Flic en Flac, who

can take you to around 30 dive sites on the west

coast. Each dive lasts around 30-35 minutes and

their prices are very reasonable. You can also take

Clockwise from left: The O’Plezir catamran, helmet diving, the incredible sealife

‘If you’ve got your PADI you can dive in at some of the terrific sites off the island, where you’ll see a whole new world of wondrous sea creatures, including sharks, stingrays and strikingly coloured fish’

20 Mauritius 101

your beginner’s PADI certificate with them, which

will take you from swimming pool to ocean and

includes four dives.

If catching fish is more your thing, Mauritius is

home to the Annual Marlin World Cup International

Competition and is considered one of the best

locations for marlin fishing in the world. Other

sealife that can be snagged includes tuna, wahoo,

sailfish and sharks. White Sands Tours offers half-

day fishing excursions on the west coast.

Most sightseeing tours will include a trip to the

waterfalls at Chamarel or Tamarin. But the very

best one for swimming in is at Eureka (433 8477)

in Moka in the centre of the island. Here you’ll find

four smallish waterfalls in a ravine that you can

visit with a guide before jumping in for a swim. An

extra bonus is the magnificent neighbouring Creole

colonial house and garden (now a museum) which

is open for tours.

A different sort of swim – one involving super-fast

slides – can be had at Le Waterpark (415 2626).

Located near the Constance Belle Mare Plage

Resort on the east coast of the island, it’s a small

but fun affair – a couple of swimming pools, a gently

winding lazy river, a pirate ship to clamber about

on and a bunch of giant slides: try the 80-metre

‘multilane’, which four people can slip down at the

same time and the Black Hole – a whizz down a

darkened tunnel on a rubber raft.

Back on dry land, horseriding can be organised

at various places around the island but the pick of

the bunch is Domaine de L’Etoile (433 1010/729

1050) on the east coast. You saddle up and head

out with a guide on Boerperd ponies for between

90 minutes and two hours, taking in the lush

scenery as you trot along. There are both morning

Left: Marlin fishing Below: The coloured sands at Chamarel

‘If catching fish is more your thing, Mauritius is home to the Annual Marlin World Cup International Competition and is considered one of the best locations for marlin fishing in the world. Other sealife to snag include tuna, wahoo and sharks’

Mauritius 101 21

Spa Trek...

There are some superb spas in Mauritius where you can get scrubbed down, kneaded up and

pampered silly. One of island’s finest is undoubtedly The Oberoi Spa, at The Oberoi, Mauritius.

It lists a swimming pool, steam baths and a beauty parlour among its top-notch amenities, but

our favourite element is the magnificent private spa suites, complete with their own plunge

pools. Elsewhere, The Seven Colours Spa at Heritage Golf & Spa Resort houses no fewer than 20

treatment rooms, offering a smart concept based on the seven chakras and the seven-coloured

earth at neighbouring Chamarel. Over at Le Touessrok you’ll find the quite beautiful Givenchy Spa,

which almost relaxes you on sight alone.

and afternoon sessions and children between 7 and

12 years old can join in as long as they have some

previous riding experience. The rides can get quite

dirty so you’re advised to bring a change of clothes

and a towel so you can take a post-trek shower on

site.

Head to Domaine de l’Etoile (433 1010) and you

can make your way down one of three archery

trails where you’ll be confronted by a series of

3D animal models. The longest trail takes around

three hours and sees you loosing off arrows at 20

fake beasts, while the shortest trail, with just five

targets, takes only 45 minutes. Children under

seven are not allowed and those over seven must

be accompanied by an adult. Rates include your

bow and arrows, assistance from a coach and

lunch. You can shoot arrows at targets elsewhere in

Mauritius but it’s nowhere near as much fun as this.

Over at Casela Nature Park (452 0693, on

the west coast near Cascavelle) you can embark

on a 4x4 tour which whips you through the park

and then on through the Yemen Nature Reserve.

Along the way you’ll see zebras, deer, African

antelopes, wild pigs and billions of birds. This

safari-style trip takes two hours in a ten-seater

vehicle. Casela Nature Park is the proud owner of

a clutch of lion and cheetah cubs. You can stand

on a viewing platform and watch them at play, walk

in their enclosure with a guide and touch them, or

go for an hour’s walk around the reservation with

two or three lion cubs. Kids who want to walk in the

enclosure or round the reservation with the cubs

must be a minimum of 1.5 metres tall for the lions

and 1.2 metres for the cheetahs.

The best quad biking on Mauritius is at

Domaine de l’Etoile (433 1010/729 1050) on the

island’s east coast, where you zip about among

an extraordinary array of flora and fauna, including

ebony, banana and cinnamon trees, Java deer, wild

boars and monkeys. There are two trips every day

– morning and afternoon – and each lasts between

two and three hours followed or preceded by lunch.

Make sure to bring a change of clothes (as things

can get quite mucky), sunblock and a camera to

capture the beautiful scenery.

There are a couple of ways to enjoy a bird’s eye

view of Mauritius. Helicopter tours of the island

are available for 15, 30, 45 or 60 minutes. The Air

Mauritius choppers seat up to four. Tours can be

taken from a series of helipads around the island

so there’s no need to travel to the airport to catch

your ride. It takes an hour to see the whole island,

but even with just 15 minutes you can expect to

see mountains, jungle and picturesque swathes of

coastline. But if you posses an even bigger head

for heights, make a beeline for the factory site of

Saint Felix sugar estate in the south of the island

for an adrenaline-fueled two-kilometre trip along

eleven swift ‘zip-lines’ – cables which you clip

yourself onto and slide down – at heights of around

30 metres. The route takes you over the Rivière des

Galets with stunning views of sugar cane fields,

banana plantations, verdant forest and waterfalls.

Halfway along there is a rest stop where you can

take a cooling swim before recommencing your

treetop adventure. The tours finish with a lovely

Mauritian lunch, and both can be booked through

White Sand Tours.

22 Mauritius 101

Mauritius takes its golfing extremely seriously -

the island is dotted with courses (a frankly farcical

number, considering the size of the population),

and if you’re into your game you’ve got to try some

of them out as they’ll blow you away. You’ll always

have to call in advance to book, and be warned

that if you’re calling from outside the hotel which

hosts the course then you won’t necessarily get a

booking on the day you want as they give priority to

inhouse guests.

A Peter Matkovich-designed course, Golf du

Château (Bel Ombre 623 5600) rises up from sea

level into the foothills of the Black River Gorges

nature reserve, giving players awesome views of the

Indian Ocean from many holes, while several holes

play by the Château de Bel Ombre, a magnificent

colonial building. Other eye candy includes a welter

of brightly-coloured flora and fauna which lines the

ruggedly beautiful course. Our favourite hole? The

beautiful par four 6th, which plays down a narrow

valley surrounded by jungle on one side and rocky

scrub on the other with a magnetic stream crossing

the hole just in front of the green.

Le Touessrok Golf Course (Ile aux Cerfs

402 7400) was designed by two-time US Masters

champion and Ryder Cup captain Bernhard Langer,

and is a breathtakingly beautiful but fiendishly

difficult course that everyone should play at least

once. Those who have strode its fairways include

Nelson Mandela. This is the only course on the

island that can’t be reached by road, meaning

that you have to take a helicopter or a ten minute

boat ride over to the delightful Ile aux Cerfs. Holes

11-13, consisting of a par five, par four and par

three, all play right beside the white sandy beach

and turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. They

‘Mauritius takes its golfing extremely seriously - the island is dotted with courses – a frankly farcical number, considering the size of the population – and if you’re into your game you’ve got to try some of them out as they’ll blow you away’

Left: Tamarina Golf Estate Below: Paradis Golf Club

Mauritius 101 23

Below: Golf du Chateau:

Right and belolw right: Le Touessrok golf course

are tough - but not too tough - and by far the most

beautiful holes on the course.

Tamarina Golf Estate and Beach Club (401

3000) is home to the first independent course on

Mauritius. Set in the shadows of Mount Rempart,

its fairways are framed by seas of natural grasses

including purple pampas, lemongrass, red grass,

citronelle and vetiver. Tamarina is very welcoming

to visitors and a real joy to play. The great views

of Mount Rempart from virtually every hole and

the troop of monkeys that lurk around the club’s

signature 13th hole make every round a pleasure.

The Four Seasons Golf Club at Anahita (202

2250) was designed by the ‘Big Easy’ himself, Ernie

Els. Though the course is still relatively new, it’s

not far from being Mauritius’ best, so play it if you

possibly can.

Its best points? Six oceanside holes, four

different terrain elements (tropical ocean, forest,

Scottish links and mountain), large fairways and the

fact that it’s the only USGA course on the island.

Plus it has a bunch of other facilities including an

air-conditioned gym, a Mauritian style clubhouse, a

beauty centre and a Big Easy grill.

Paradis Golf Club, Le Morne, is the oldest 18-

hole championship course on the island and lies in

the shadow of the magnificent Le Morne mountain,

a World Heritage site. Though it can be the easiest

course on Mauritius, when the wind blows it can be

a beast. We love the par four 12th and 13th holes

which play parallel to each other down one side of

the lagoon.

Links Course, Belle Mare Plage Resort

(402 2999) is beautiful, with some really wonderful

holes played around outcrops of volcanic rock. All

buggies are fitted with the latest GPS systems and

the locker room facilities are truly luxurious. The top

holes? The par four 13th and par three 14th, which

both require long carries over water to reach the

greens, are absolutely great. The dog-leg par four

18th is also a fantastic finishing hole.

24 Mauritius 101

CompetitionFinished planning your trip to paradise? Then take

time to answer just one simple question and you

could snag yourself a complimentary three night

stay for two people (including breakfast) at the

stunning Oberoi, Mauritius. One of the world’s

great resorts, the Oberoi, Mauritius is the epitome

of style, with luxury pavilions and private villas – 16

of the villas have private pools, while the pavilions,

where you’ll stay, open onto beautiful gardens

just a stone’s throw from the beach – and a spa

that’s been voted the best in the world by a team

of industry professionals. It is, quite simply, your

chance to enjoy the holiday of a lifetime. To be in

the draw, just email the answer to the following

question to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com

by September 15th, 2009.

How many luxury villas with private pools does

The Oberoi, Mauritius have?

Note: The prize validity is from 15th September 2009

to 31st July 2010, excluding 20th December 2009

to 10th January 2010. All bookings are subject to

room availability.

Win! A luxury break at the ultimate island resort, The Oberoi, Mauritius

WIN

www.lapirogue.com

La Pirogue, Mauritius

Fringed by a superb white-sand beach graced by the most glorioussunsets, La Pirogue revisited remains true to its traditional values ofauthentic Mauritian hospitality, romance and tranquility.

More than ever La Pirogue reasserts its vocation as a resort dedicatedto the sea and to its pleasures, shared with a loved one, family or friends.

For further information, please contact your local travel agent.

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Sugar Beach, Mauritius

An elegant blend of plantation lifestyle with a contemporary buzz provides

the new 5-star Sugar Beach with a panoply of innovative sensations.

Combining a variety of activities to suit all tastes, be it diving in the

pristine blue of the lagoon, sandcastle competitions for the little ones,

complete relaxation at the Spa hammam or just indulging in the sensual

tastes and flavours of one of several ‘World Cuisine’ restaurants,

the Sugar Beach has something for everyone.

For further information, please contact your local travel agent.

www.sugarbeachresort.com

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