Maximum Yield Australia 2011

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Australia September-October 2011

indoorgardeningexpo.com

OctOber 22-23

lOng beachcalifOrnia, usa

2011indOOr gardening expO

www.maximumyield.com

Organic HydroponicsDream or Reality?

Grafting Made Easy

Climate ControlGetting it Right

Measuring LightIntensity

2 Maximum Yield | May/June 2011

http://www.hygrozyme.com

3Maximum Yield | September/October 2011

CONTENTSSeptember/October 2011

DEPARTMENTS

3414

40

3September/October 2011

FEATURES

4 From the Editor

4 Letters to the Editor

6 MaximumYield.com

8 Simon Says

10 MAX Facts

12 Product Spotlight

44 Distributors

46 Coming up in Nov/Dec

46 Do You Know?

14 Flavour Chemistry OfHydroponic Plantsby Dr. Lynette Morgan

22 The Short and Vicious Life of a Fungus Gnat

26 Automated Climate Controlthe Right Wayby Isabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé

29 Medicinal Herbs atHome: Aniseby Matt LeBannister

30 Nutrient Deficiency Symptomsby Andrew Taylor

32 The Real Organic Hydroponics by Luis Bartolo

34 Growing: Fads and Fallacies by William Texier

37 The Vascular System From Top to Bottom

38 A How to Guide to Graftingby Dr. Mike Nichols

40 Measuring Light Intensity by Philip McIntosh

4 Maximum Yield | September/October 2011

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

Jessica Raymond, [email protected]

via Facebook

San FranciSco SucceSS

Thanks for a great show Maximum Yield! We had a great time up there and met a lot of fans and customers. See you all at Long Beach!

Nutrifield

Thank you for being so great to myself and the EZ-CLONE crew! We love you guys and the show was a blast.

Zry Dsp

Nice show in San Francisco. Hope to see you all there next year!

Grozone Control Inc.

Thanks for another great show. The Humboldt Nutrients crew always appreciates what Maximum Yield staff and magazine does for us. See you all in Long Beach 2011.

Humboldt Nutrients

Thanks again for another amazing show guys! Think it was the best one yet! See ya at Long Beach.

Green Planet Wholesale

Had a lot of fun at the show. It was awesome and every one was so help-ful and just all around fun. Especially the guys from SteadyGROWpro.

David Grunwald

Had a great time at the show this year! Thanks for letting us be part of it!

Michelle Marie White

Thank you for putting on the expo! My wife and I had a great time and it looks like everyone else did as well. Looking forward to next year!

CheersJustin Flowers

Loving out Loud

I love your mag.

Jose Garza

Love your magazine and online info.

Sharon Calabrese

I would love a subscription to your wonderful magazine. I get it when-ever I can but the store runs out fast and I miss issues. I love how up-to-date it keeps me with new products.

Cody Eurich

Maximum Yield has compiled one of the most extensive sources for technical information I have seen.

Bob Wheeler

I love your magazine I read it all the time.

Ricardo

Your article on light sources, amount of time and heat was very informative.

Julie Brothers

Thanks. We love you too! Keep-ing growing and keep reading maximum yield. We appreciate all your comments.

We want to hear from you!Write us at:Maximum Yield Publications Inc.2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9or e-mail us at: [email protected]

FROM THE EDITOR | JESSICa RaymOND

Jessica Raymond, [email protected]

NEW: FolloW us oN T

october 22-23long beach |

october 22-23october 22-23long beach |

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USA

The secreTs To cloning revealed

indoorgardeningexpo.com

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indoor gardening expo

Maximum Yield magazine offers a great jumping off point for sparking up a conversation with your fellow gardening enthusi-ast. Whether you run into each other at an industry event like the Indoor Gardening Expos or spark up a debate at your local hydro shop, you’ll never be at a loss for words with your monthly grow-ing guru—Maximum Yield—to back you up. This issue in particular covers a wide array of topics including a how to guide to grafting, flavour chemistry of hydroponic crops, automated climate control, controlling and preventing fungus gnats, measuring light intensity and so much more.

Speaking of Indoor Gardening Expos, we invite you all to attend the upcoming 2nd Annual Long Beach Expo, October 23, 2011. You can expect over 275 booths touting the latest innovations and earth friendly grow gear, live demonstra-tions, education seminars and door prizes throughout the weekend. Visit www.indoorgardeningexpo.com to learn more about this and our 2012 Expo line-up. See you at the show!



AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTIONDome Garden Supply

FutchatecGrowth Technology

Holland ForgeHouse N’ Garden

HydrogardenHydraspher

UK DISTRIBUTIONGrowth Technology

Future Harvest Development EuropeNutriculture UK

CANADIAN DISTRIBUTIONBrite-Lite Group

BiofloralEddis Wholesale

Greenstar Plant Products Inc.HydrotekMegaWatt

Quality Wholesale

USA DISTRIBUTIONAurora Innovations

BWGSGeneral HydroponicsHumboldt Wholesale

HydrofarmHydro International

National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight SupplyR&M SupplyTradewinds

VOLUME 9 – NUMBER 3 September/October 2011

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687

No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092

contributors

PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA

Tell us what you think at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.

Coming upon the Web

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim JessonGENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores

BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda JessonEDITOR - Jessica Raymond [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677

Linda Jesson - [email protected] Lisa Lambersek - [email protected] Ilona Hawser - [email protected]

Ashley Heppell - [email protected] PRODUCTION & DESIGN

[email protected]

Tina Skujins - [email protected] Mike Linden - [email protected]

Jennifer Duong - [email protected]

ACCOUNTING - Tracy Greeno [email protected]

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Got Questions? Get Answers.Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. E-mail [email protected] or fill out the question form on maximumyield.com

LAtest newsWhich city in Europe was deemed the Green Capital? Which restaurant in New York City features a fresh rooftop farm? What type of fish is perfect for aquaponics? Learn the answers to these questions and more on maximumyield.com under Latest News.

ConneCt with MAxiMuM YieLdwww.maximumyield.comwww.facebook.com/MaximumYieldwww.indoorgardeningexpo.comTwitter.com/Max_Yield

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.

Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

William Texier started hydroponics in 1985, doing research and development for General Hydroponics in California. In 1995, he and his wife Noucetta Kehdi created General Hydroponics Europe. William is best known for coining the term bioponics, or organic hydroponics. William has 25+ years of hydroponics experience and is considered a hydroponics expert worldwide.

Isabelle Lemay is in charge of the technical support, customer service and research and development at Nova Biomatique Inc. (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is an agronomist and holds a master’s degree in soil and environment studies, with a specialization in greenhouse production.

upCoMinG eventsSee, Learn, Discover and Grow at the 2011 Long Beach Indoor Gardening ExpoMaximum Yield is proud to be hosting the 2nd Annual Long Beach Indoor Gardening Expo, October 23, 2011. See live demonstrations, learn at our information sessions, discover new techniques and delight in the uniquely diversified products that will help your garden grow. Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for full event details

Dr. Mike Nichols is a retired university lecturer and an honorary research associate in the College of Sciences at Massey University, New Zealand. He speaks extensively at conferences for international organizations such as the United Nations, and also writes and consults on a range of intensive horticultural topics.

Mélissa Léveillé holds a license in communication, writing and multimedia. She is the newest member of the Nova Biomatique Inc. Team (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is responsible for Nova Biomatique Inc.’s communications.

Philip McIntosh is a science and technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.


http://www.superthrive.com


SIMONSIMONsaysI have some yellowing leaves, both on the fringe and in a couple of cases the whole leaf. Two of the leaves look like yellow paint was spilled on them. Can you suggest possible causes?

Thanks,Charlie

“With all plant issues you must visually assess the situation and track the movement of the issue on the

plant structures themselves.”

Ahhh, the murky world of nutrient deficiency diagnosis! This issue can be a bane to rookie and veteran gardeners alike. Many people are far to cavalier about this issue and their solutions end up causing more problems either through misdiagnosis or over correction. First off check your solution pH in a water system or test the leachate in a soilless system. There is no point in trying to mitigate a nutrient problem if your plants’ roots are in a situation where they can’t access the right mineral balance.With all plant issues

you must visually assess the situation and track the movement of the issue on the plant structures themselves. Your question doesn’t specify enough to truly diagnose the issue, which is already difficult to solve without visual assessment of the plant in question. However, I will detail three of the most common deficiencies that could be causing the problem you are describing.Before commenting on the three most

likely causes of the problem, I would like to remind all readers that whenever possible, if you determine its worth the cost, sending away a dried tissue sample to a lab for analysis is a great way to check the nutrient balance within your plant. In fact this could be useful even for healthy plants so you have a baseline of nutrient ratios that you can specifically target in successive crops. For now let’s try and troubleshoot. Remember that taking the time to properly diagnosis a crop problem will benefit you in the future because you will be able to identify and address the issue

rapidly, keeping your garden growing in the right direction.One of the most common causes of

yellowing leaves in gardens is a nitrogen (N) problem. When deficient, nitrogen will cause new growth to be very small and plants will grow slowly. In cases of serious deficiency nitrogen will cause yellowing of leaves. In the case of nitrogen, which is mobile within the plant, you will see yellowing on the older, lower leaves first as nitrogen is

shifted to developing growth. Check with your local grow shop or nutrient manufacturer for a product suggestion and for an application rate. Spot treat a plant with a nitrogen foliar spray (nitrate nitrogen if possible) and assess the effect. A spot treatment is a technique of testing a product on a small part of your garden prior to applying it to all plants. If you are unsure of the problem you can try different spot treatments at the same time to try and isolate the issue.Another possible culprit is a lack of

magnesium (Mg). Again this issue will generally start in lower leaves but will be more pronounced initially in the leaf margin and along the edges of the lobes. Eventually the leaves will turn completely yellow with the exception of the venation. Remember that it starts from the older leaves because magnesium is not

entirely mobile. This is distinct from the third possibility. Epsom salts (MgSO4) are a good idea for a root application or foliar spray. Check with your local grow shop or nutrient manufacturer for a product suggestion and an application rate and then spot treat a plant to assess the effect.Iron (Fe) deficiency also causes

yellowing in leaves and can be a common issue as well. Because iron is not incredibly mobile the deficiency will occur in the newer leaves rather

than the older leaves as compared to a magnesium deficiency. It will also start in the leaf margins working its way

to the middle while leaving the venation green. Chelated iron is available in many products and is absorbable as a foliar spray. Again, check with your local shop or nutrient manufacturer for a product suggestion and an application rate and then spot treat a plant to assess the effect.It is possible to find some products in

the market that combine useful options for all three issues in one bottle. Check with you local hydroponic retailer and ask about their calcium supplement options. In general these products will contain nitrate nitrogen, magnesium and chelated iron within their formula. I can’t emphasize enough what an excellent resource your local grow shop can be. Whenever you have nutrient issues be sure to consult their knowledgeable staff.

Good luck in the garden.



MAXFACTS hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS aND TRIvIa

MAX FaCTS hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS aND TRIvIa

Don’t UnDerestimate the Power of herbal teas The idea that herbal teas may provide a variety of health benefits is not just folklore. A survey of the research literature on the health benefits from drinking three of the most popular herbals in America—chamomile, peppermint and hibiscus tea—found compelling science-based evidence.• Evidence of moderate antimicrobial activity and

significant antiplatelet-clumping activity was found in chamomile tea.

• PePPermint tea was found to have significant antimicrobial and antiviral activities, strong antioxidant and antitumor actions, and some antiallergenic potential

• Based on a human clinical trial, drinking hibiscus tea was found to have lowered blood pressure in a group of pre-hypertensive and mildly hypertensive adults.

(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)

boosting the PineaPPle inDUstry in the bahamas

Bahamas Agricultural and Industrial Corporation (BAIC) has started distribution of 5,000 tissue cultured sweet

cayenne pineapple slips throughout the islands in an effort to stimulate the Bahamian pineapple industry.

The slips were imported and hardened at Nassau’s Lucayan Tropical hydroponics farm.

Presently, sweet cayenne pineapples are imported from Costa Rica and sold in the food stores. By producing them locally, there would be no need to import them. BAIC’s next initiative is the distribution of fruit trees—avocado, mango,

sour sop, guava, and Persian lime.

Sources: bahamaislandsinfo.com,

www.freshplaza.com

e. coli an Unlikely contaminant of Plant VascUlar systemsScientists have helped confirm that Escherichia coli is not likely to contaminate the internal vascular structure of field-grown leafy greens. There was no evidence that E. coli had become “internalized” in leaves or shoots of baby spinach plants 28 days after the plants had germinated and grown in pasteurized soil.

(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)

first soilless harVest of black magic table graPesThis past summer grower Giannangelo Boccuzzi, who works in Rutigliano (Bari, Italy), harvested the first Black Magic table grape from plants grown without soil. The harvested grape looks good, with colour and shape typical of the cultivar. It has a sugar content of about 15 brix degrees.

(Source: www.freshplaza.com)


a taste of sUstainable

lettUce in the heart of berlinThe Über Lebenskunst Festival that took place in August in Haus Der Kulturen der Welt in the heart of Berlin highlighted sustainability with a floating lettuce art project titled Vorratskamer. The lettuce was grown with the Dry Hydroponic system, an innovation by Viscon and Cultivation systems.

(Source: www.freshplaza.com)

tomato enDeaVoUr rZ sets a new benchmark in the heateD trUss segmentThe heated greenhouse tomato in Europe has seen steady growth in the large truss segment according to Phil Ritchie, protected cropping advisor for Rijk Zwaan Australia. Australians growers have been working hard to find tomato varieties that can perform consistently with the extreme and variable Australian climate.

Rijk Zwaan has introduced an exciting new truss tomato variety called Endeavour RZ into the Australian market that has exceptional setting ability and sufficient plant strength to maintain consistent fruit size through the season. It is suitable for winter and summer plantings. Trial results from all over Australia and New Zealand show a high standard of fruit quality and truss shape.

(Sources: www.hydroponics.com.au, www.rijkzwaan.com.au)

ets a ets a hheateeateDD

The heated greenhouse tomato in Europe has seen The heated greenhouse tomato in Europe has seen steady growth in the large truss segment according

truss tomato variety called Endeavour RZ into the Australian market that has exceptional setting ability and sufficient plant strength to maintain consistent fruit size through the season. It is suitable for winter and summer plantings. Trial results from all over Australia and New Zealand show a high standard of fruit quality and truss shape.

close to home hyDroPonically cUltiVateD fresh ProDUceHydroscape (Pacific) Limited is a major contributor to the local and international food industry, as one of the largest retailers and distributors of tropical farm fresh produce in the Southwestern Pacific region.Hydroscape sources hydroponically grown farm fresh produce to one of its parent companies Joe’s Farm Supplies, which then exports this quality produce to big offshore market players in Australia and New Zealand. Some of their greater successes include the installation and implementation of a fully-functional hydroponics system on Laucala Island. Additionally, they have also seen to the successful development of a fully-fledged hydroponics system at City Farm Limited.

(Source: www.joesfarmproduce.com)

lose to home hyDroPonically ateatea D fresh ProDUce

Hydroscape (Pacific) Limited is a major contributor to the local and international food industry, as one of the largest retailers and distributors of tropical farm fresh produce in the Southwestern Pacific region.Hydroscape sources hydroponically grown farm fresh produce to one of its parent companies Joe’s Farm Supplies, which then exports this quality produce to big offshore market players in Australia and New Zealand. Some of their greater successes include the installation and implementation of a fully-functional

system on Laucala Island. Additionally, they have also seen to the successful development of a fully-fledged hydroponics system at City Farm Limited.hydroponics system at City Farm Limited.

(Source: www.joesfarmproduce.com)

fiji exPorts fooD bUt can’t feeD itself?Fiji has a uniquely tropical climate that enables the commercial growing of a wide variety of hydroponics and other local agricultural products. Fiji’s location is also ideally advantageous for exports of fresh produce due to the prolific seasonality of supply when compared to other producer countries. Additionally, Fiji is also a relatively disease-free country with preferential trade and bilateral quarantine agreements in a number of major markets.However, despite Fiji’s huge annual agricultural output, the economy is not self-sufficient in food production. Producers are attempting to introduce sustainable and productive concepts that may bolster general efforts toward that of environmentally-friendly self-sufficiency in the Fiji Islands. Developments in this field could be very lucrative for Fiji’s economy, whereby Fiji’s great potential for agro-processing and hydroponics growth lies in the production and export of high value, specialized produce to compatible niche markets. This allows producers to take advantage of Fiji’s natural climate, off-season location and preferential trade agreements, while also minimizing the actual distance from major markets.(Source: www.joesfarmproduce.com)


PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT

yOUR GUIDE TO ThIS ISSUE’S HOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSHOTTEST ITEMSask for them at your local indoor gardening store.

large cone eight bag kitThe Boldtbags Large Cone Eight Bag Kit makes filtration fast and efficient with the 220, 190, 160, 120, 90, 73, 45 and 25 micron bags. The micron screen continues up the bag and attaches to a metal ring at the top. The bag is tapered from top to bottom creating optimum downward flow, as well as through the sides of the bag. The Large Cone can be used with a Boldtbags Suspension kit for bucketless filtration. Visit your favourite hydroponics shop for more information.

humboldt nutrients ginormousWe all want to harvest giant flowers and enormous fruits. Humboldt Nutrients Ginormous is here to help you accomplish that goal. This super bloom booster is made with macro- and micronutrients, trace elements and sugars. Crops grown with Ginormous have higher brix levels, larger flowers and stronger aromas. Ginormous is 100 per cent biodegradable and contains no harmful hormones or

synthetic chelates. Ginormous makes the most demanding gardeners ecstatic at harvest time and gives first-timers professional results. Visit your local hydro shop to learn more.

sun system® blazer reflectorSunlight Supply®, Inc. is excited to announce the arrival of the Blazer Reflector, the latest addition to the Sun System® reflector line. Completely sealed for maximum air-cooling, 95 per cent reflective European aluminium interior and an EZ-Breeze® aerodynamic junction box are only a few of the many excellent features Blazer has to offer. This state-of-the-art air-cooled reflector raises the bar for output and uniformity. An industry leader in its class, Blazer is a force to be reckoned with. Unmatched in output, uniformity and performance, you can’t afford not to have this reflector in your grow room. Your plants will thank you. Visit an authorized Sunlight Supply retailer for more information.

Blazer Reflector, the latest addition to the Sun System® reflector line. Completely sealed for maximum air-cooling, 95 per cent reflective European aluminium interior and an EZ-Breeze® aerodynamic junction box are only a few of the many excellent features Blazer has to offer. This state-of-the-art air-cooled reflector raises the bar for output and uniformity. An industry leader in its class, Blazer is a force to be reckoned with. Unmatched in output, uniformity and

will thank you. Visit an authorized Sunlight Supply retailer for more information.

small cone three bag kitThe Boldtbags Small Cone Three Bag Kit makes filtration quick and efficient with the 220, 73 and 25 micron bags. The micron screen continues up the bag and attaches to a metal ring at the top. The bag is tapered from top to bottom creating optimum downward flow, as well as through the sides of the bag. The Small Cone can be used with a Boldtbags Suspension kit for bucketless filtration. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.


humboldt nutrients royal flushA quality crop needs an effective flush to reach its full potential. Flushing removes heavy elements and salts, allowing for more aromatic and flavourful

fruits and flowers. Humboldt Nutrients Royal Flush supercharges the flushing process, binding together undesirable salts and heavy minerals. Royal Flush then strips these larger particles out of your plant, leaving behind sugars and strong flavours. Your plant is composed of water, sugars and salts. If you flush out the salts and dry out the water, you’re left with delicious and aromatic sugars, and sugars rule the natural world. Try

Humboldt Nutrients Royal Flush today and experience the difference between a flush and a Royal Flush with a clean, sweet finish. Ask for Royal Flush at your local hydro shop today.

small wash bagThe Boldtbags Small Wash Bag is new and improved with a snap buckle closure to keep the zipper locked in place. It is made of Swiss grade quality mesh with reinforced stitching

at the seams and a military grade zipper and buckle. The mesh screen has been measured to the absolute micron and heat stamped to prevent fluctuation. Boldtbags Small Wash Bag fits both mini and standard washing machines. The Boldtbags Small Wash Bag comes with a two year warranty. Visit your favourite indoor gardening shop for more information.

http://www.nutrifield.com.au

flavour chemistry of hydroponic plants

flavour chemistry of hydroponic plants

A poorly flavoured fruit or vegetable is disap-pointing. We are programmed to seek out flavour; the right balance of sugar to acid, distinctive tastes and good levels of volatiles all make eat-ing pleasurable. However, few understand just how complex the flavour chemistry of the crops we grow really is. Currently over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that may contribute to the overall flavour experience have been identified in tomato fruit alone, with potentially many more as

yet undiscovered. In strawberries the compounds ethyl butanoate, furaneol and ethyl hexanoate all

contribute to the distinctive strawberry flavour of the fruit, while sugars and acids also contribute to the

overall taste experience. The fact that we can taste a wide range of flavours, detect many volatile compounds even at

low rates and form an opinion about what tastes good, means flavour is something of interest to many growers.

Discover ways to naturally boost the flavours in your crops.

by Dr. Lynette Morgan



flavour Chemistry by Crop TomatoesTomatoes are the hydroponic crop that receives the most complaints and compliments about flavour intensity. The organoleptic (taste or flavour) properties of tomato fruits are determined largely by the amount of solids, particularly sugars and organic acids and the volatile composition. In tomatoes, the naturally occurring volatile compounds gera-nylacetone, 2-3-methylbutane, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one are

Chili peppers are grown for both their heat and distinctive flavour profile.



Flavor Chemistry oF hydroponiC plants

all correlated with tomato flavour, however, hundreds more also contribute to that distinctive tomato taste.A number of factors influence fruit flavour: plant genetics,

light levels, temperature, water stress, raised salinity, ferti-lizer additions and leaf area (as influenced by training system used). Many of these factors can be influenced by growers to increase the flavour of tomato fruit. Selection of different cultivars plays a major role when looking to improve overall fruit flavour with many growers now growing high flavour lines, although even these can be poorly flavoured if not grown correctly.The simplest way of increasing the flavour constituents of

hydroponic tomato fruit is to increase the concentration (or EC) of the nutrient solution, to produce fruits with a higher percentage dry matter, sugar and acid, and conse-quently, better taste and firmness. This has been found to

be the case with large fruited and cherry tomatoes. Both sugars and acidity levels increased in the cherry culti-var Gardeners Delight with fruit grown at an EC of 10 mScm-1 as compared to 2.5 mScm-1. Other studies have reported that the dry matter content, sodium content and acidity of fruit grown at an EC of 8.0 mScm-1 was greater than fruit grown at 3 mScm-1. An obstacle to improving the composition of tomato fruit via increased solution conductivity is the well-documented relationship between yield and the fruit dry matter content. Using cultivation techniques such as increasing the nutrient conductivity to increase dry matter content of the fruit also reduces the rate of water accumulation and thus cell enlargement, so that a loss in yield is almost inevitable. While commercial operations may not be willing to sacrifice yield for higher solids and flavour in their fruit, smaller growers are often keen to try this technique and grow something that just can’t be purchased at the grocery store.

peppers and chilliesSweet peppers and chillies are a passion among many small hy-droponic growers for their distinc-tive flavour profile and the varying degrees of heat the plants are capable of producing. The heat producing or burning compound contained in chilli peppers is capsaicin, which was first iso-lated from plant tissue in 1877. The three main capsaicinoids detected in most chilli fruit are capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin and nordihydrocapsaicin. Capsaicin has no flavour or odour; the ability to sense it depends entirely on the physiological action of the compound (i.e., burning) on the tongue.Underlying the heat of peppers are also some rather delicate

flavours, which mostly arise from several aromatic com-pounds that make up the distinctive flavour of capsicum fruit. It is the outer fruit wall where most of the flavour compounds are located and these seem to be associated with the colour or pigment levels in the fruit. There are differ-ent compounds that impart distinctive flavour profiles in the

Sweet peppers and chilies are a passion among many hydroponic growers and flavour is all important with these crops.

“hydroponic techniques can be used to boost the pungency and flavour of hot peppers.”

be the case with large fruited and cherry tomatoes. Both sugars and acidity levels increased in the cherry culti-var Gardeners Delight with fruit grown at an EC of 10 mScm-1 as compared to 2.5 mScm-1. Other studies have reported that the dry matter content, sodium content and acidity of fruit grown at an EC of 8.0 mScm-1 was greater than fruit grown at 3 mScm-1. An obstacle to improving the composition of tomato fruit via increased solution conductivity is the well-documented relationship between yield and the fruit dry matter content. Using cultivation techniques such as increasing the nutrient conductivity to increase dry matter content of the fruit also reduces the rate of water accumulation and thus cell enlargement, so that a loss in yield is almost inevitable. While commercial operations may not be willing to sacrifice yield for higher solids and flavour in their fruit, smaller growers are often keen to try this technique and grow something that just can’t be purchased at the grocery store.

eppers and chilliesSweet peppers and chillies are a passion among many small hy-droponic growers for their distinc-tive flavour profile and the varying degrees of heat the plants are capable of producing. The heat producing or burning compound contained in chilli peppers is capsaicin, which was first iso-lated from plant tissue in 1877. The three main capsaicinoids detected in most chilli fruit are capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin and nordihydrocapsaicin. Capsaicin has no flavour or odour; the ability to sense it depends entirely on the physiological action of the compound (i.e., burning) on the tongue.Underlying the heat of peppers are also some rather delicate

flavours, which mostly arise from several aromatic com-pounds that make up the distinctive flavour of capsicum

ydroponic techniques can be used to boost the pungency and flavour of hot peppers.”


many species of chilli fruit. Jalapeno flavour is attributed to the compound 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine, for example, and this is distributed unevenly throughout the pepper pod.The hydroponic production of sweet bell peppers and chilli

peppers is similar; however, there are techniques that can be used to boost the pungency and flavour of the hot types that are best not used for growing a succulent, mild, bell pepper. Chilli pepper fruit, with their pungent compounds, respond well to the applica-tion of controlled stress. Any factor that puts stress on the plant, such as high EC, lack of moisture and high light and temperature,

increases the concentration of the heat-producing compounds in the fruit and at the same time reduces fresh weight or water content. This is great for those who are aiming to grow

the hottest chilli possible, but should be used with caution as many chilli cultivars are already genetically inclined to be scorch-ing and intensifying these may not always be required.

EC levels as high as 8.0 mScm-1 have been applied to chillies to boost pungency levels with good results, however,

different chilli cultivars will respond differently to increases in EC and growers should determine for themselves which EC level gives the biggest kick in the fruit. Ideally when using a higher EC to favour-ably increase the pungency of chillies, it is best to do this by increasing only the macronutrients in the solution (N, P, K, S and Ca) and maintain the trace elements (Fe, Mn, Zn, B, Cu and Mo) at normal EC strength levels.

Onion bulb concentration of sulphur can be as high as one per cent on a dry weight basis.

the compound 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine, for example, and this is distributed unevenly throughout the pepper pod.The hydroponic production of sweet bell peppers and chilli

peppers is similar; however, there are techniques that can be used to boost the pungency and flavour of the hot types that are best not used for growing a succulent, mild, bell pepper. Chilli pepper fruit, with their pungent compounds, respond well to the application of controlled stress. Any factor that puts stress on the plant, such as high EC, lack of moisture and high light and temperature,

increases the concentration of the heat-producing compounds in the fruit and at the same time reduces fresh weight or water content. This is great for those who are aiming to grow

the hottest chilli possible, but should be used with caution as many chilli cultivars are already genetically inclined to be scorching and intensifying these may not always be required.

EC levels as high as 8.0 mScm-1 have been applied to chillies to boost pungency levels with good results, however,

different chilli cultivars will respond differently to increases in EC and growers should determine for themselves which EC level gives the biggest kick in the fruit. Ideally when using a higher EC to favourably increase the pungency of chillies, it is best to do this by increasing only the macronutrients in the solution (N, P, K, S and Ca) and maintain the trace elements (Fe, Mn, Zn, B, Cu and Mo) at normal EC strength levels.




onions, garlic, shallots and chivesBulb onions have a strong pungent flavour and aroma originating from the presence of a range of organosulphur compounds. Onions actually accumulate large quantities of sulphur and bulb concentrations of sulphur have been re-ported to be in excess of one per cent on a dry weight basis.

Hydroponic wasabi contains mixtures of volatile compounds, such as isothiocyanates, which gives that distinctive pungency and flavour.

Much of the sulphur taken up by onions is partitioned into organosulphur compounds as part of the flavour bio-synthetic pathway. Onion pungency is known to increase in response to in-creased sulphur fertility, but in addition to this, the form of nitrogen in hydroponic solutions is also shown to affect on-ion flavour. In hydroponic onion trials it has been found that sulphate and nitrogen availability in the nutrient solution in-

teracted to influence onion flavour compounds and can thus be used to manipulate onion compositional quality. Certain flavour compounds in onions have been shown to increase linearly with increasing nitrogen levels in hydroponic trials from 20 to 140 milligrams/litre nitrogen. Garlic also responds in a similar way to increasing sulphur and nitrogen concen-trations in the nutrient solution when grown hydroponically. Alliin is the specific flavour and quality trait related to the health value of garlic, which has been shown to increase with higher levels of sulphur and nitrogen in many commercial garlic cultivars. Such manipulation of nitrogen and sulphur in hydroponic nutrient solutions could not only produce higher flavoured and more pungent garlic, but also bulbs with an improved health value.Succulent herbs such as mint prefer moderate temperatures and summer

shading for the best flavour quality.

"Lower eC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavor quality..."


herbsFresh herbs are grown specifically for their flavour compounds and aromatics, some of which are very concentrated under certain growing conditions. Some very pungent condiment herbs such as wasabi or horseradish contain mixtures of volatile compounds such as isothiocyanates that give them their distinctive flavour and heat. There is some evidence that these types of pungent com-pounds respond to increased sulphur in the nutrient solution.

The flavour of brassicas like cabbage originates from sulphur-containing compounds called ‘glucosinolates.’

Flavour in onions can be boosted with the addition of sulphur in the nutrient solution.



Lynette


Other herbs such as basil have been more widely studied and the total amount of essential oil is known to significantly increase with light levels. The main flavour compounds in basil leaves are 1,8 cineole, linalool and eugenol, all of which respond to higher light by increasing the flavour intensity of the foliage. One study found that taste test panellists could discern the differences between organically- and greenhouse-grown basil, yet no preferences were shown.Basil is an aromatic herb with a high percentage of essential

oils in the foliage. This oil contained within the leaf tissue is also prone to oxidation and its pungency is easily lost. If the herb is grown in conditions that are too cool or the foliage is damaged, there will be a loss in flavour and aroma.

While basil oil content can be increased with moderate plant stress, high light and increased EC, this is usually not advisable for hydroponic crops grown to be consumed fresh as it tends to reduce leaf size and quality and it is possible for basil to become overly strong. Basil destined for pro-cessing or drying, however, can benefit from being grown hard to increase the leaf ’s fresh weight but increase the es-sential oil content.Soft, cool season herbs such as parsley and mint

should be grown differently to the more woody aromatic herbs such as rosemary, oregano and thyme for maximum flavour and qual-ity. Parsley can become overly strong with bitter and unpleas-ant overtones in flavour if grown with high light, tempera-tures and EC. Both mint and parsley can

Strawberry flavour is dependant on the balance between sugars, acids and a range of volatile compounds.

"Lower eC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavour quality in

these types of herbs."


also develop tough and stringy foliage and stems, which reduces their eating quality, even though flavour may be more intense. Lower EC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavour quality in these types of herbs. The perennial herbs—many of which are referred to as the Mediterranean herbs—originated in hot, dry climates. These include thyme, oregano, rosemary and they respond well to being grown hard with a certain degree of stress. Under conditions of high light, reduced moisture, high EC and warm temperatures, these types of herbs respond by concentrating the levels of essential oils and aromatic compounds in the foliage. Winter nutrient solutions for these woody herbs are best manipulated to increase the level of potassium relative to nitrogen and include some extra magnesium to maintain flavour quality.

Brassicas – watercress, arugula, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and othersThe characteristic flavour of brassica crops originates from sulphur-containing compounds called Glucosinolates that yield breakdown products giving the familiar flavour and aroma, from distinctive cabbagey to peppery and pungent in watercress to sharp and nutty

in arugula. Much of the distinctive flavours are linked to sulphur and this element can be manipulated in hydroponic solu-tions to improve the taste of certain brassica crops.Production method alone is not enough to guarantee

good flavour quality in any plant. Just because a crop was hydroponically or organically grown doesn’t neces-

sarily mean it’s going to taste any better than a conventionally grown crop. However, hydroponic

methods, with the degree of control over nutritional and other factors that

can be achieved, mean the grower has more tools to use when it comes to maximizing the taste

experience. MY

http://www.house-garden.com.au


The Short & Vicious Life of a

Fungus Gnat

Be prepared. Cool spring weather is the perfect time for these infectious killers to invade your indoor garden.

Fungus gnats can invade any garden at any time. Although they are typically harmless to healthy plants, a healthy gar-

den is not always immune. Even experienced gardeners can be puzzled by the symptoms of fungus gnats. The larvae of these pests can destroy a garden, working out of sight as they chew the plant roots and drain the sap. Even the adults—tiny flies that hang around the bottom of the plant and run across the surface of the grow medium—look harmless. Usually growers only see a few tiny flies, and sometimes the

flies lay their eggs near the plant’s roots and escape unnoticed by the gardener.

This hidden activity by fungus gnat larvae separates gnats from top growth, attacking insects like thrips or

spidermites. Even careful examination of the root zone may miss these tiny larvae; the grower would see only damaged and discoloured roots. Meanwhile, the baby bugs are:

1. Chewing and damaging root tissue, interfering with nutri-ent and water uptake.

2. Sucking sap from roots that was necessary for the needs of the plant.

3. Infecting the damaged roots with fungus disease.

This last activity is the reason these insects got their name. They carry disease spores on their bodies that can infect the damaged roots easily, creating more problems for the grower.New fungus gnat problems in a garden usually occur in

autumn (as cooler weather forces insects indoors) or spring (when over-wintering eggs outdoors hatch and the flies find their way into the grow room). Fungus gnat problems can happen anytime of the year, indicating that an infected

plant somewhere in the garden or nearby (houseplants or outdoors near the indoor garden) is serving as a continual source of these pests. Often the problem is traced to stock plants, which are usually ne-glected, old and root bound—and good riddance because of the severe damage these pests can inflict on a garden, store staff and growers must be aware of how to identify and handle them. Bright yellow leaves, normally shaped, no wrinkles or spots and very slow growth are strong clues to their presence in the garden. Have growers search for tiny flies—like fruit flies—hovering near the base of the plant or on the grow medium. Once spotted, treatment

staff and growers must be aware of how to identify and handle them. Bright yellow leaves, normally shaped, no wrinkles or spots and very slow growth are strong clues to their presence in the garden. Have growers search for tiny flies—like fruit flies—hovering near the base of the plant or on the grow medium. Once spotted, treatment

Fungus gnats can invade any garden at any time. Although they are typically harmless to healthy plants, a healthy gar

den is not always immune. Even experienced gardeners can be puzzled by the symptoms of fungus gnats. The larvae of these pests can destroy a garden, working out of sight as they chew the plant roots and drain the sap. Even the adults—tiny flies that hang around

flies lay their eggs near the plant’s roots and escape unnoticed by the gardener.

This hidden activity by fungus gnat larvae separates gnats from top growth, attacking insects like thrips or

spidermites. Even careful examination of the root zone may

plants, which are usually ne-glected, old and root bound—and good riddance because of the severe damage these pests can inflict on a garden, store staff and growers must be staff and growers must be aware of how to identify and handle them. Bright yellow leaves, normally shaped, no wrinkles or spots and

presence in the garden.


of all plants must be immediate, not just the ones that look sick. The larvae can already be present and start to damage plants that still look healthy, and un-treated larvae turn into more flies to re-infect the garden.Plants recovering from fungus gnat problems still face the

risk of disease problems. Remember that these bugs can spread fungus spores to damaged roots. As a precaution, these plants should be given a treatment with a fungicide a day or two after pesticide application. A root drench is more effective than spraying the top growth. Follow a similar procedure to your use of pesticides, drenching the entire root zone with fungicide solution, with irrigation pumps off for at least several hours. Left over fungicide in the root zone will not interfere with nutrients, so it’s not necessary to drain and replace the fertilizer mix.Yellow sticky cards are very useful as an early warning

system for these flying pests, since the gnats are often at-tracted to the bright yellow surface. Soon, new gangs of these bugs will be pulling home invasions on our gardeners as the milder weather will allow gnat eggs to hatch outdoors.

Fortunately, treating this pest is very straightforward. Potting soil insecticide or fungus gnat powders will eliminate fungus gnats from the root zone, usually with a single application of pesticide. These products are very gentle on the plant, mak-ing them useful for all grow mediums. I do not recommend stronger, outdoor pesticides since these can cause major damage or death to an indoor garden. Stick with safe, effec-tive products that allow plants to recover quickly. Using these products with potting soil plants is very simple: just sprinkle the powder on to the soil and water tin. MY






AutomAtedClimAte Controlt h e r i g h t W A y

Isabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé

Step into the age of automation.

Whether it is a simple pastime or your source of income, indoor gardening requires time and effort in order to achieve worth-while results. In an enclosed environment in which one hopes to maintain ideal growing conditions at all times, it becomes neces-sary to manually control the climate; this requires supervision, and therefore, a nearly constant presence in the garden. It is for this reason that automation can be helpful. In addition to reducing the number and frequency of visits to the garden, automated control considerably reduces your work time, and allows you greater flex-ibility; and the benefits don’t stop there. Automating your garden creates much more stable conditions, accurately meeting plant’s needs and allowing for considerable energy savings.

Timers: the first step towards automationA timer activates or deactivates a device based on time, more specifically, based on the time of day or on cycles. Timers are particularly efficient for setting irrigation and lighting cycles, which are usually constant and minimally influenced by other garden conditions.



There are even multi-timers available on the market that are capable of simultaneously coordinating irrigation, lighting and lamp cooling cycles and offer protection for equipment and plants. Timers are not recommended for controlling equipment used to maintain climatic conditions (temperature, humidity, CO

2 con-

centration). The purpose of devices used for heating, humidifica-tion, CO

2 enrichment, etc., is to regulate the climate according to

specific levels (e.g.: 24°C, 50 per cent relative humidity, 1,200 ppm of CO

2). A timer, used for this kind of device, is undependable and

does not take into account existing garden conditions; the chances of establishing a climate that is stable and adapted to plant needs are, as it were, nil. Fortunately, certain devices have been designed specifically for climate control.Equipped with a sensor that measures ambient conditions,

the controller activates or deactivates a climate-correcting device according to levels set by the user. The given setting is generally accompanied by a differential in order to avoid continuous starting and stopping of the climate-correcting device in a short lapse of time. Take for example a controller connected to a CO

2 generator set to 1,200 parts per million

(ppm), with differentials high and low set at 200 ppm. The sensor regularly measures the concentration of CO

2 in the

garden. When the concentration drops below 1,000 ppm, the controller activates the CO

2 generator. When the concentra-

tion exceeds 1,400 ppm, the CO

2 generator is stopped

by the controller.

Differential ex-ample for CO2 concentra-tion controlThis kind of control is very efficient at maintain-

ing stable and precise garden

conditions. There are at least three

categories of control-lers: specific, integrated and

coordinated modulars.

The specific controllerThe specific controller manages a single climate param-eter and a single device at a time. A specific temperature controller, or thermostat, can control either a heater or an air-conditioner, but not both. The same goes for all other parameters. This type of controller, though inexpensive, yields results that are proportionate to the invested sum.

Thinking they are saving money, some people choose to manage several climatic parameters by means of specific controllers. This requires as many specific con-trollers as there are devices to control. Often disadvantageous on a financial level, such a choice is also unwise on a management level. It is very difficult to co-ordinate the levels and differentials of the various devices to avoid opposite actions. For example, if one were using a thermostat to cool and another to heat, it would be necessary to set the levels and the differ-entials to sufficiently different temperatures to prevent the two de-vices from running at the same time. And even then, nothing is guaranteed, see-ing as other factors, such as the calibration of sensors, can complicate things.In some situations, it is even

impossible to avoid opposite ac-tions. This is the case when cooling the garden using an air exhaust fan, and enriching CO

2 levels with the help of a

bottle or a generator, where each device is being controlled by a separate controller. Each controller starts up the device under its con-trol as needed, regardless of whether the other device is functioning at the same time. It is, therefore, very likely that the exhaust fan will activate at the same time as the CO

2

generator, which will lead to the loss of CO2 to the outside

environment. What a waste! Specific controllers are better than nothing, but fortunately, more sophisticated controllers exist.

controllers. This requires as many specific con-trollers as there are devices to control. Often disadvantageous on a financial level, such a choice is also unwise on

opposite actions.

cool and another to heat, it would be to heat, it would be necessary to set the levels and the differ-entials to sufficiently different temperatures to prevent the two de-vices from running at the same time. And even then, nothing is guaranteed, see-ing as other factors, such as the calibration of sensors, can complicate things.In some situations, it is even

impossible to avoid opposite ac-tions. This is the case when cooling the garden using an air exhaust fan, and

levels with the help of a bottle or a generator, where each device is being controlled by a separate controller. Each controller starts up the device under its con-trol as needed, regardless of whether the other device

a management level. It is very difficult to coordinate the levels and differentials

trol as needed, regardless of whether the other device is functioning at the same time. It is, therefore, very likely that the exhaust fan will activate at the same time as the CO

choice is also unwise on a management level. It is very difficult to co-ordinate the levels

trol as needed, regardless of whether the other device

“Whether you need to heat, cool, humidify, de-humidify or enrich the environment with CO2, the controller prioritizes its actions according to a logical sequence,

which takes into account all parameters being

controlled.”


The integrated controllerWhy use several controllers

when one will suffice in assuring optimal management of your garden’s climate? Multifunctional, the integrated controller allows for the man-agement of several

climatic parameters at once. Whether you

need to heat, cool, humidify, dehumidify or

enrich the environment with CO

2, the controller prioritizes its

actions according to a logical sequence, which takes into account all parameters being controlled. Opposite or incompatible actions are therefore 100 per cent avoided without any effort from the user. In addition, the stable and precise climatic conditions obtained thanks to this type of control offer plants a narrow comfort zone that better meets their needs. On a financial level, the purchase of just one integrated controller is often more advantageous than the purchase of several specific controllers.

Coordinated modular controllers - the height of automationWhat if we were able to gradually equip ourselves with specific controllers capable of intercommunicating? In the near future, coordinated modular controllers will be able to do even better than that. Each individual coordinated modular controller will be able to manage one climatic parameter, such as temperature, humidity or CO

2. As op-

posed to a specific con-troller, a modular control-ler will be able to manage several aspects of a single parameter; in the case of a modular temperature controller, this will mean heating, cooling and venting control with the use of a single controller. Together, these controllers will be able to exchange information, and as such, intelligently manage several climate parameters at once. It will therefore be-come possible to gradually build a system that is both complete and intelligent.

Choosing the right controllerFaced with the range of control devices available on the market, it is a challenge to decide on one particular model that would be efficient. An informative decision rests first on a precise evaluation of your needs and priorities, which are established according to the type of garden in question as well as the species of plants being cultivated. Here are a few key questions to help guide your decision:

• Which climatic parameters do I wish to control in my gar-den? The temperature? The humidity? The CO2

concentra-tion? A combination of two or three of these parameters?

• Which devices will be used to regulate the climate and control air-conditioning, heat, humidity, dehumidification, CO

2 generation, etc.)?

• Do I want to equip myself gradually or proceed directly to purchasing a complete controller? What’s my budget?

Once these questions have been answered, the type of control-ler required is usually obvious. Automated climate control in an indoor garden calls for a bit of time and money at first, but the gains will be worth it. Plants that are cultivated in an environment that is stable and ideal for growth will thank you with quality and abundant yields. And that’s not even counting the hours of work you’ll save and be able to dedicate to your life outside your garden. Will you step into the age of automation? MY

automated Climate Control the right way

Integrated contollers offer stable and precise climatic conditions to better meet plants’ needs.

“An informative decision rests first on a precise

evaluation of your needs and priorities, which are established according to

the type of garden in ques-tion as well as the species of plants being cultivated.”

29Maximum Yield | September/October 2011 29Maximum Yield | September/October 2011 292929

by Matt LeBannister

Medicinal Herbs at H oMe:Anise

How Herbs can Help you acHieve H ealtHThe selling of over-the-counter drugs is a billion dollar in-dustry. Relief from small ailments can be easily obtained the natural way if one decides to grow some medicinal herbs at home. Anise is the herb up for discussion this issue. It can be found as flavouring in different liquors such as Jägermeister, Ouzo and the infamous Absinthe. Absinthe is legendary for supposedly turning a generation of writers mad from hallucinations, but the main medicinal ingredient in anise, anethole, is not to blame. Anise has a pleasant taste similar to fennel or liquorice and is part of the parsley family.The parts of the anise plant that are harvested for

medicinal purposes are the seeds and can be used on their own or pressed for the anise seed oil. The oil can be applied topically. It is a mild anti-parasitic and can be used to treat lice and scabies.Anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. To

do this the anise must be ingested. The seeds can be boiled and made into a very delicious tea; one teaspoon of dried anise seeds will be enough for one cup of tea.

The anise seed tea can also be good for chest coughs. Anise is known to break down phlegm and mucus that builds up in our throats and lungs when we get a chest cold or cough. Another great way to treat this problem is to boil the anise seeds in water as if making tea. Instead of drinking the water, place your head over the steam and breathe in the vapours. A towel can be placed over one’s head to trap even more of the vapour. This can be done for 10 to 15 minutes as often as needed.

The consumption of anise seed tea can also be beneficial for women experiencing menstrual cramps. A couple cups a day can keep menstrual pain at bay.Anise can be grown easily when its few needs are meet. It

requires a sunny place to grow and flower. T5 fluorescent bulbs or a 400 watt HID would be ideal, but a very sunny windowsill will do. Soil must be rich in nutrients and drained well. It is the anise seeds that one is after. When grown indoors we must take on the role of “mother nature” and pollinate the anise plants ourselves. Once flowers open, one should use a painter’s brush and dab all the flowers. This should spread the pollen and result in pollination. In six to 10 weeks the fruit or seeds will be ma-ture and ready for harvest and drying.Anise is an extraordinary plant that can benefit us greatly.

Whether used for flavouring our desserts, foods and liquors, or curing our tummyaches, anise is a part of human medicinal his-tory and most likely will be for some time to come. MY

AniseAniseAniseAniseerbs can Help

ealtHThe selling of over-the-counter drugs is a billion dollar industry. Relief from small ailments can be easily obtained the natural way if one decides to grow some medicinal herbs at home. Anise is the herb up for discussion this issue. It can be found as flavouring in different liquors such as Jägermeister, Ouzo and the infamous Absinthe. Absinthe is legendary for supposedly turning a generation of writers mad from hallucinations, but the main medicinal ingredient in anise, anethole, is not to blame. Anise has a pleasant taste similar to fennel or liquorice and is part of the parsley family.The parts of the anise plant that are harvested for

medicinal purposes are the seeds and can be used on their own or pressed for the anise seed oil. The oil can be applied topically. It is a mild anti-parasitic and can be used to treat lice and scabies.Anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. To Anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. To

do this the anise must be ingested. The seeds can be boiled and made into a very delicious tea; one teaspoon of dried anise seeds will be enough for one cup of tea.

The consumption of anise seed tea can also be beneficial for

by Matt LeBannisterAniseAniseAnise

The selling of over-the-counter drugs is a billion dollar in-dustry. Relief from small ailments can be easily obtained the natural way if one decides to grow some medicinal herbs at home. Anise is the herb up for discussion this issue. It can be found as flavouring in different liquors such as Jägermeister, Ouzo and the infamous Absinthe. Absinthe is legendary for supposedly turning a generation of writers mad from hallucinations, but the main medicinal ingredient in anise, anethole, is not to blame. Anise has a pleasant taste similar to

Anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. To Anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. To do this the anise must be ingested. The seeds can be boiled and made into a very delicious tea; one teaspoon of dried

“anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. to do this the anise must

be ingested. the seeds can be boiled and made into a very delicious tea; one teaspoon of dried anise seeds will be enough for one cup of tea.”

Medicinal HerbsMedicinal Herbs

AniseAniseAnise

Monitor plants closely for symptoms of nutrient deficiency. These symptoms can provide a valuable forewarning of seri-ous problems within the growing system. Be aware that there are many factors that cause nutrient deficiency symptoms in a plant. The nutrient itself may not be the cause.

Deficiency symptoms are grouped into several categories:

1. Stunting of growth: As all essential nutrients are simultaneously required for healthy growth, this symptom can be attributed to a deficiency in any one or more of them.

2. Chlorosis and interveinal chlorosis: Chlorosis can result in the whole plant or leaf turning light green or yellow. It can also be more localised. For example, yel-lowing of the veins themselves or between the veins (interveinal chlorosis). Chlorosis occurs due to plants being deficient in elements required for photosynthesis or chlorophyll production.

occur first in the older (usually lower) leaves. Mobile elements include N, P, K and Mg (chart one).In contrast, immobile nutrients are not

able to move quickly from one plant part to another. Therefore, deficiency symp-toms are initially most obvious in younger growth (usually higher up the plant). Immobile nutrients include Ca, S, Fe, Cu, Mn, Zn and B (chart one).

WHAT CAUSES DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS?The appearance of foliar deficiency symp-toms often causes inexperienced growers to conclude that the nutrient solution is deficient in a particular element. How-ever, if a ‘complete’ nutrient formulation is being used, check the following before settling on this conclusion:

• insufficient EC or feed frequency

• in recirculating hydroponic systems, the nutrient is discarded too infrequently

• inappropriate nutrient pH (causes certain nutrient elements to become unavailable for uptake)

• excessive humidity (hinders the distri-bution of nutrient throughout the plant)

• signs of pests or diseases (their presence can produce symptoms that are similar in appearance to nutrient deficiency symptoms)

3. Purple/red discolouration: This of-ten occurs on stems or along leaf petioles, veins or margins. It occurs due to abnor-mal levels of anthocyanin that accumulates when plants are stressed. These symptoms can also be caused by physical stresses such as cold, drought and disease.

4. Necrosis: Generally happens in the later stages of deficiency where the af-fected plant part becomes stressed to the point that it becomes brown and dies.

5. Other: Further symptoms include:• poor quality (or few) buds, flowers

or fruit• poor root development• distorted leaves (i.e., cupped or twisted)

Old or young growthA key indicator for identifying nutri-ent deficiency is whether the symptoms are occurring in older growth, younger growth or both. Mobile elements are able to move out of older leaves and into younger plant parts when a deficiency is present. Hence the symptoms usually

by Andrew taylorNUTRIENTDeficiency Symptoms

axillarybud

vein apex(or tip)

left margin

midrib

petiole

Fig 2 Simplified illustration of external

leaf structure.

interveinalchlorsis

nectroticspot

tip burnchlorosisof margin

chlorosisof veins

purple petiole

Fig 1 Some common leaf abnormalities

resulting from nutrient deficiencies.


Terminal buds remain alive but chlorotic (ie. yellow) or wilted without necrotic (i.e. dead) spots

Terminal buds die. Distortion & necrosis (ie. dying of young leaves.

- E�ects are mostly generalised over whole plant- Lower leaves dry up and die

E�ects mostly localised:- Mottling (ie. blotches) or cholosis- Lower leaves do not dru up but become mottled or chlorotic- Leaf margins cupped or tucked

Calcium (Ca)Young leaves hooked then die back at tipes & margins

Manganese (Mn)- Small nercotic spots- Veins remain green

Copper (Cu)- Young leaves wilted, without cholorosis- Weak stem tip

Magnesium (Mg)- Mottling or chlorosis with yellow around margins & interveinal chlorosis- Necrotic brown spots

Potassium (K)- Mottled or chlorotic dull grey-green leaves- Small necrotic spots between veins or near leaf tips & margins- Slender stalks

- Young leaves not wilted- Chlorosis

No necrotic spots

Boron (B)- Young leaves light green at bases, die back from base- Twisted leaves

Iron (Fe)Veins remain green

Sulfur (S)Veins become chlorotic

Zinc (Zn)- Nercrotic spots (large & general) eventually involving veins- Thick leaves- Short stalks

Nitrogen (N)- Light green foliage- Lower leaves yellow/drying/brown- Stalks become short & slender

Phosphorus (P)- Dark green foliage; Red/purple - Dark green foliage; Red/purple - Dark green f colors appear- Lower leaves yellow/drying to dark green- Stalks become short & slender

De�ciency Symptoms

Old Leaves A�ectedYoung Leaves A�ected

Diagnostic Flow-Chart For Common Nutrient Deficiency SymptonsCHART 1

NOTESDeficiency symptoms observed under field conditions often appear

different than ideal text book examples. Diagnosis is often difficult

even to the most experienced eyes. Some elements produce similar

symptoms and several deficiencies can occur at the same time. Symp-

toms can also be easily confused with those caused by pests, diseases,

under watering and genetic abnormalities.

Early detection is important because deficiency symptoms are often

more unique and easier to distinguish in the early stages. Yield loss can

also be potentially avoided. Early detection also prompts the grower

to check for other possible causes such as excessive humidity and poor

EC and pH control. MY


The Real OrganicHydroponics

by Luis BartoloIs organic hydroponics but a dream?

Organic hydroponics. This, the ultimate combination of control (hydroponics) and tasty, earth-friendly gardening practices (organics), is but a dream for many gardeners. It offers the ideal solution and could be the ultimate growing system. There has been much trial and error in the process and a suitable formulae has not yet been found that is wholly organic whilst remaining reliable and workable in a hydroponic environment.So is organic hydroponics possible? So far the answer is

uncertain. Organic substances by their very nature need to be alive and have the ability to combine with other organic elements in order to function at their best. Soil microbiology and the organic elements combine together in a living explosion of decomposition, magically working together to create new life forms. Water alone cannot provide this function. There needs to be a basis for the catalyst to happen in order to create the active micro life necessary for organic plant health and growth. Organic substances left in water are not able to be stabilized, nor are they able to catalyse with each other. After a time they will deteriorate and even become stagnant

and harmful to the plant.

Experimenters have also tried using active compost teas and regular organic fertilizers in reservoir tanks combined with air pumps and bubblers in an attempt to keep the mixture active. Used with other soilless mediums such as coco or pebbles this can work up to a point but unlike most chemical/mineral hydroponic operations the solution will need changing on a regular basis. This is not only defeating the object of automation, but also costing more money in wasted fertilizer. It’s also not eco-friendly, which defeats the objective of being organic in the first place.Another system of so-called organic hydroponics includes having

pots of soil suspended in a flood and drain or NFT system. The top layer of the pot contains soil or a compost mix with rocks or gravel at the bottom to prevent the medium leaching into the water. But the reservoir tank will only be able to contain water with possibly the addition of organic bio-stimulants. The actual feeding of the organic nutrients would still have to be done from the top by hand. Essentially this method would just function as a sophisticated watering system and is likely as far into organic hydroponics as we are going to get for now.



However, this example is not soilless or automated and, therefore, not hydroponic in the traditional sense.So how are we to progress and what methods from either

system can we utilize for the best results? Is it possible to take elements from both and make them more functional or usable? This is a matter of much interest and research within our industry and research and development continues in this direction. Meanwhile, certain bio-stimulants and energy boosters are available that can be used in standard hydroponic systems. These remain stable and usable in water and do not interfere with the EC measurements in any way. Organic certified substances such as those based on fulvic and humate acids and certain aminos can be used where they function incredibly well and in many cases perform better than their chemical

counterparts. Still this does not provide us with a complete solution. One of the main reasons for organic cultivation is the quality and taste of the end product; bio-stimulants do improve the overall health of the plant when used in this way and serve as an ecologically-sound alternative to an otherwise predominantly chemical system.

A LIvING ExPLOSION OF DECOMPOSITIONOrganic substances suspended in water are unable to stabilise and, over time, will deteriorate, becoming harmful to the plants.

Another way of bringing your hydroponic crops closer to organic and also improving the flavour of the end product is through the use of foliar applications. Seaweed and fish emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant. This also enhances chlorophyll content and supplies trace elements of organic origin. Some composting preparations such as worm cast tea can also be used in this way. The results are immediate and hugely beneficial. Foliar applications of fish emulsion on plants grown hydroponically show the same improved grow rates as their conventional sisters in a pot or the earth. Similarly seaweed applications serve as a rescue remedy to poor or sick plants just as they would in the soil.So it can be said that certain elements of organics can be

incorporated into hydroponics. The solution is not perfect but it is the best we have for now. One thing is for sure we have to continue our quest to find the perfect combination, for us, our society and Mother Earth. MY

RESERvOIR TANkSSoilless mediums such as coco or pebbles can work up to a point but unlike most chemical/mineral hydroponic operations the solution will need changing on a regular basis. This is a costly and potentially environmentally harmful solution, which defeats the objective of being organic in the first place.

“we have established the scientific facts that organic hydroponics isn't yet possible...

[but] is it possible to take elements from both and make them more functional?”

GrowinGFads and Fallaciesby William Texier

There are numerous fads circulating in the home grower world that are deeply rooted in people’s mind. These fads are often propagated on Internet forums. Technical books on hydroponics are hard to read for most people without previous knowledge in chemistry and plant physiology. Many books on the subject of indoor growing cover your

When useful products are used improperly they can be detrimental to your garden. Read on to discover the most common fads and fallacies.

choices of system, lighting, ventilation, etc. Some of those books are well written and thorough but tend to be missing a detailed section on proper hydroponics practices. Some Internet forums cannot be trusted since manufacturers may use them to promote their products by posing as simple users, ranting and raving on how this product is miraculous.



“As a general rule, doing something that weakens your plants when they are already attacked by pathogens is not a bright idea.”

Others are good faith users that can, by like of experience, draw the wrong conclusions and propagate them; or it could be something observed once and made as a rule without repetitive testing to verify what was observed. As a result, products are used improperly, causing damage when they could have been potentially useful. I will try to review some of them below.

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O

2)

Many companies sell H2O

2 with the claim of miraculous effects,

from improving the oxygen level in the nutrient solution to killing all pathogens on site. They often use anthropomorphic images such as: “the oxygen ion search for the bad guy.” Of course, there is some truth behind all that, but the presentation is rather misleading.When H

2O

2 is dissolved in water, it rapidly loses an oxygen

atom that becomes a free radical. As you probably know, free radicals are extremely reactive oxygen ions. They have an electric charge and they attach themselves very easily to any other particle with an opposite charge. “Attach” in this case means oxidize, or kill. It is this same process that transforms iron into rust.All microorganisms, as well as every living cell, have electrical

activity, and thus attract a free oxygen ion...and die! The free radical does not have a selection mechanism that makes it target the bad guys. It will indiscriminately oxidize spores and pathogens, but also root cells.At the same time that it is cleaning the nutrient solution, it is

weakening the plant. In fact, the quantity that you can introduce in the nutrient solution without killing your plant is so small that it is not enough to completely free the solution from pathogens. It is true that their population will be reduced, but they will rapidly come back in even greater numbers to attack the weakened plants. As a general principle, doing something that weakens your plants when they are already attacked by pathogens does not strike me as the brightest of ideas.

The claim of extra oxygenation is also greatly exaggerated.

It is important to realize that this ionic form of

oxygen is not the one that the plant can use. Plants absorb O

2,

the gaseous oxygen that is in the air, the reunion of two oxygen atoms.What happens to

that oxygen ion when it is released? Since it

is very reactive, it will not live long, or travel far.

It will, most likely, encounter something to attach to. It will then precipitate out of solution with that “something.” Once again, that can be a cell, a spore, but also a metallic ion such as iron. If some of those ions, obviously a small portion, manage to turn into gaseous oxygen, they will simply get out of the solution, at least for the larger part. The reason is simple: there is a maximum of dissolved oxygen that you can have in the water. This maximum varies mostly in relation with the temperature. Once that saturation in oxygen is attained, any extra would simply dissipate in the air. Granted, a minute fraction might be absorbed by the plant, but certainly not enough to make a difference.Don’t get me wrong, hydrogen peroxide is a very good

product. There is nothing more efficient to rid a system from pathogens between two crops. I highly recommend the use of H

2O

2, especially if you experienced root problems in your

previous crop. The use of a strongly acidic solution to dissolve the salts that might accumulate in the line, as well as using a strong solution of H

2O

2 to get rid of

pathogens should be your routine practice between crops. It is only the idea of using it with plants in the system that makes the hair on my neck curl.

CO2 Tabs

There is no doubt that bringing extra CO

2 in the atmosphere surrounding your

plants will improve their growth, their health and the yield of your crop. It is not easy to do when growing in a small space: the heat from the light forces a quasi-constant renewal of the air, making it less practical to introduce CO

2.

CO2 tabs serve a good purpose

since they release in the growing space a large amount of CO

2 in a short

time. Therefore, it is possible to shut the ventilation down for just a little while, but not long enough for the air to become too hot. And this can be repeated a few times for more effect. However, it is a mistake to put the tabs in your nutrient tank. They must be dissolved in a separate bucket with no connection with your system. You simply do not want CO

2 in your

root zone! CO2 is a by-product of plant metabolism

that is released by the roots in the nutrient solution, as well as some other molecules exuded by the plants. They are “polluting” the nutrient solution. A well designed hydroponics system works well for two reasons:

previous crop. The use of a strongly acidic solution to dissolve the salts that might accumulate in the line, as well as using

to get rid of pathogens should be your routine practice between crops. It is only the idea of using it with plants in the system that makes the

in the atmosphere surrounding your

not easy to do when growing in a small space: the heat from the light forces a quasi-constant renewal of the air, making it less

in a short

while, but not long enough for the air to become too hot. And this can be repeated a few times for more effect. However, it is a mistake to put the tabs in your nutrient tank. They must be dissolved in a separate bucket with no connection with your

in your is a by-product of plant metabolism

that is released by the roots in the nutrient solution, as well as some other molecules exuded by the plants. They are “polluting” the nutrient solution. A


it oxygenates the nutrient solution, but also, it helps dissipate the gazes out of the solution.CO

2 tabs are

absolutely counter-productive in the root

zone. It is definitely

a good idea to use

them, but do use an extra container.

Another good way add CO2 is the slow release

system that will bring a slow increase of CO2 at

all times by means of a basic chemical reaction. This is practical, low-tech and efficient, and it will not pollute the nutrient solution. Both low-tech methods, if well used, can save you money.

EnzymesMost people are not familiar with the relationship between enzymes and bacteria. In fact the difference is pretty big: bacteria are alive, and enzymes are produced by bacteria as part of their metabolism. They are the weapons of bacteria.

Plant tissue at high magnification.

Their role is to breakdown dead matter into single elements on which bacteria can feed. Enzymes are short lived but bacteria produce them all the time. Therefore, during a crop, if you introduce bacteria, it is like introducing millions of enzyme factories that are going to work for the duration of the crop. If well managed, it is obviously more efficient than introducing enzymes during the crop; at best, it is a quick action that will not last very long.Enzymes are very useful when used properly, or in

between crops, when you need to clean a substrate from the residues of the previous crop and you want a quick, strong effect. In that case, nothing works better than enzymes. For the rest of the time, use bacteria or fungi (they are also enzyme factories). The typical bacterium to use in this case is Trichoderma harzianum, an especially efficient and economical product.We have seen with those few examples how useful products

can be detrimental when used improperly. Many beginners tend to buy all the products on the shelf and hope that this will help them succeed in their growing operation. In fact, it is often the contrary. As strange as it might sound, I have seen many beginners fail just by doing too much. It is better to start with the basics: a hydroponics system, a plant, a nutrient and a pH corrector. This is all you really need. From there, you can start experimenting with the many products on the market today, but not before learning how to use them properly! MY

gazes out of the solution.CO

2 tabs are

absolutely counter-productive in the root

zone. It is definitely

use an extra container. is the slow release

at all times by means of a basic chemical reaction. This is practical, low-tech and efficient, and it will not pollute the nutrient solution. Both low-tech

Most people are not familiar with the relationship between enzymes and bacteria. In fact the difference is pretty big:

“Free radicals oxidize, or kill, spores and pathogens, but also root cells.”

The

Vascular systemFrom top to Bottom

Plants, like all living things, resPond to their environments for

good or for bad. a good environment breeds a healthy Plant. a

bad environment breeds an unhealthy Plant, or can kill the Plant.

You likely know the basic plant life system, but let’s refresh. Through its leaves, a plant takes in light and carbon dioxide (CO

2) from the atmosphere. Through its roots, it takes in water

and nutrients from the soil or growing environment. It converts light and CO

2 into sugar and releases oxygen (O

2). The plant

then uses these sugars, the water and nutrients for growth.

No iFs or ButsHydroponic growing lets you give the best care possible to your plants. The quality of care is in your control. These are the most important factors you need to know:

Hydroponics is the first choice when you want the most control possible over plant growth. That control depends on knowing as much as possible about the growing environ-ment. It’s why we need accurate measuring systems. They tell us when things are going well and when they’re turning for the worse. First, we measure what’s happening in the growing environment. Then we can make sure we keep growing condi-tions superb. We can, in other words, add our knowledge and skills to nature.Water and nutrient conducting tissue throughout the plant

ensure that all parts of the plant get the water and nutrition they need to grow.

shoot system• Above ground parts of the plant• Leaves trap energy from sunlight and carbon dioxide from

the air to create “food” (photosynthesis).

• Leaves release oxygen into the air (respiration).• Stems provide structure and position leaves so they can col-

lect sunlight.• Buds produce new plants or plant parts.• Flowers or cones produce seeds from which new plants

can grow.

root system• Below ground parts of the plant• Anchors and supports the plant in the ground.• Fibrous roots absorb water and nutrients from the soil.• Taproots store “food” created during photosynthesis.• May produce new plant from roots buds.

it souNds oBVious, aNd it is. plaNts eat!Article contributed by Bluelab Corporation Limited

water purityoxygeNph Valueppm Valuetemperature

light

ystem

floWer

leaf

stem

bud

taP root

fibrous root


A How to Guide to GrAftinGby dr. Mike nicHols

Grafting is an important technique used to control plant vigour for fruit trees. It provides a means to establish specific varieties (clones) of the majority of fruit trees that don’t breed true from seed and cannot easily form roots from cuttings. Grafting also plays a role in vegetable production, particularly (but not solely) in controlled environment agriculture.Obviously, it is necessary to sow two

sets of seeds, namely the rootstock and scion varieties. Experience has suggest-ed that the rootstock should be sown several days before the scion, because not only is germination a little more erratic, the seed also takes a little longer to germinate.The ideal size for grafting is when the stems of both scion

and rootstock are 1.5 millimetres in diameter. Almost cer-tainly this will mean some need for grading the rootstock seedlings after emergence to ensure that all the rootstocks in a tray are the same diameter. Growing the seedlings in plug trays makes it possible to grade, but this must be done at least two days prior to grafting to give the plants time to

get over the check. If the rootstock is germinated at 25°C, it takes about 17 days to reach the 1.5 millimetre diameter. The growth of the scion can be controlled with temperature, to ensure that the scion and rootstock are at the correct size at

the same time.It is essential that the grafting area is

hygienic and all equipment is clean. Knives should be disinfected regularly to avoid the possible spread of viruses. The first stage of grafting is to remove the heads of the root-stock and throw away the heads to ensure that they do not get mixed up with the scion. The cut is made at a 45 degree angle 2.5 centimetres above the pot. Too low and

there is the risk of scion rooting; too high and the graft might become too heavy and fall over. The grafting clips are then at-tached to the rootstock.The scion is prepared by cutting the seedling heads to a length

of a 1.2 centimetres. Again, a 45 degree angle cut is made. This provides the maximum possible surface area for the rootstock and scion fusion. The scion is then inserted into the grafting clip until the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion cut make full contact.

A stronG stArt MAkes success More likely And productivity GreAter.

“in terMs of productivity, it AppeArs tHAt GrAftinG will not only increAse yield but Also tHe More viGorous root systeMs MiGHt Also increAse wAter efficiency And nutrient Absorption.”



The grafted seedlings must remain in the high humidity environ-ment (mist propagation) for at least four days to ensure the scion re-mains turgid and the graft takes. Then, over several days the humidity should be slowly reduced to glasshouse levels. Normally, full ventila-tion should be possible after day seven. It is not necessary to remove the grafting clips; they fall off naturally. In fact, removing them by hand could damage the plants.Rootstocks vary in their vegetative/generative characteristics, and it is

really a question of selecting the appropriate rootstock for your scion/production system/planting date. Where vigour is desirable then a highly vegetative rootstock should be selected, but if growing a crop into the winter, a generative rootstock might be favoured.One of the advantages of a vegetative rootstock is that it introduces

the opportunity to grow two or more main stems to a single root system, with a consequential reduction in propagation costs. This might almost negate the additional cost of producing grafted seedlings. The bonus, then, would be a potentially more productive plant that would resist soil-bourne pathogens and grow better during cool conditions.

AdvAntAGes to GrAftinG:• improved productivity due to resistance to disease• grafted plants (via the rootstock) are more tolerant to poor water quality (salinity)• grafted plants can tolerate low temperatures

The take-home lesson from this is that grafting has the potential to markedly increase productivity, but there is probably a need to match the rootstock to the scion for best results. In terms of pro-ductivity, it appears that grafting will not only increase yield but also the more vigorous root systems might also increase water efficiency and nutrient absorption. MY

39Maximum Yield USA | August 2011

Measuring Measuring Measuring Light IntensityLight IntensityLight Intensity

by Philip McIntosh

Historically light intensity has been measured in a number of ways. It is complicated by the fact that light is something that we humans perceive in a specific way. Our eyes are sensitive to only a small fraction of the total electromagnetic spectrum, and our thoughts about what light is are influenced by this limited perception.

Historically light intensity has been measured in a number of ways. It is complicated by the fact that light is something that we humans perceive in a specific way. Our eyes are sensitive to only a small fraction of the total electromagnetic spectrum, and our thoughts about what light is are influenced by

The light requirement for a reading room is different from that of an office space, which is in turn different from that of a factory floor. Early light research focused on human perceptions and needs and so was biased toward the view from the human eye—not the view from the photosystems of plants. Plants have their

own specific requirements that are not aligned with those of humans. You will see the terms candelas, lumens, footcandles, candlepower, lux, moles, Einsteins and photosynthetic photon flux density used to describe light as it relates to plants and photosynthesis. What do these terms mean?

40 Maximum Yield | September/October 201140 Maximum Yield | September/October 2011

Candlepower. Candlepower (cp) is an obsolete unit of luminous intensity based on the light emitted from a specific type of candle (in England the candles had to be made of pure spermaceti weighing 1∕

6 of a

pound and burning at a specified rate; that should tell you how obsolete this unit really is). Candlepower was dep-recated in 1948 and there is really no excuse for still using it.

Footcandles. Another obsolete unit, the footcandle (fc) (also foot candle or foot-candle) is a unit of illuminance, equivalent to the light shining on a surface placed three metres away from a source having an intensity of one candle (a candlepower of one). Although you may still see footcandles (or even candlepower) in older literature and even on some light metres, lux (one fc = 10.764 lux) is the preferred illuminance unit.

Candelas. The candela (cd) replaced candlepow-er as the SI unit of luminous intensity. It is defined as the luminous intensity in a given direction of a source emit-ting 555 nanometers radiation with a radiant intensity of 1/683 watt per steridian (sr). Steridian, now there’s a unit you don’t come across every day! A steridian is roughly the area covered by 1∕

12 of a sphere having a radius of

one unit. The 555 nanometers wave-length (green) was chosen to cor-respond to the wavelength of highest sensitivity of the human eye when adapted to bright conditions. Perhaps you can already see a problem with the fact that green light was chosen as a part of the definition and method of producing a standard reference source for the candela; this is not an efficient wavelength for plant photosynthesis.

Lumens. The lumen (lm) is the SI unit of lu-minous flux (meaning something like “flow of light”), and is best thought of as a unit of perceived light power or to-tal visible light from a source. High out-put lights are perceived to be brighter and have more power than dim ones; thus they output more lumens. A lu-men is based on the unit the candela, and represents a light source with a ra-diance of one cd/sr. Keep in mind that the farther you are from a light source, the dimmer it looks but it still outputs the same number of lumens. But, there is less light energy falling on a surface as the source is placed farther away.

Lux. The lux is the SI unit of illuminance. Lux gives the number of lumens per square yard (the illuminance) on a surface. For example, if a luminous flux of 100 lm, is shone on an area of one square yard, the illuminance is 100 lux. One hundred lm concentrated on a 25 square centimetres surface (perhaps by moving the source closer to the surface) results in an illuminance of 10,000 lux—the illuminance is 100 times as high since the area of a 10 by 10 centimetre surface is 1/100th the area of a square yard. Knowing this does not give any information about how much of that is light is actually useful for plants.

Moles, Einsteins and Photon Flux Density. The mole (mol) is Avogadro’s number of any kind of discrete particle. Avogadro’s number, 6.022 x 1023, shows up all over the place in physics and chemistry. As a simplified example of how it’s used, if you have one mole of oxygen atoms, you have 6.022 x 1023 oxygen atoms. If a mole of oxygen atoms is combined with two moles of hydrogen atoms you will get one mole of water (H

2O).

Named for the scientist (in honour of his 1905 description of the photoelectric effect, in which certain materials eject electrons when struck by light), the Einstein (E) is a unit (but not an SI unit) of quantized light energy. The Einstein is sometimes mis-takenly described as one mole of photons of any wavelength. However, it is really the amount of energy (in joules/mol), of a mole photons of a given wave-length. A mole of photons is quite a lot, so in plant research, pho-tosynthetically active radiation (PAR) mea-surements are reported in microEinsteins per second per square yard (micro = one-millionth). Or, to be consistent with SI units, mi-cromol per second per square yard. These data are collected us-ing sensors that essentially count all the photons in the range from around 300 nanometers to 700 nanometers. This is also known as the photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) or photo-synthetic photon flux (PPF). MY

About the Author: Philip McIntosh is a science and technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.

41Maximum Yield | September/October 2011 41Maximum Yield | September/October 2011

42 Maximum Yield | July/August 2011

http://www.indoorgardenexpo.com

43Maximum Yield | July/August 2011

http://www.indoorgardenexpo.com


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QUEENSLANDA happy medium hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 (07) 3809 3322Allgrow hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 (07) 3376 7222Aquatic oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 (07) 3245 7777billabong hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 (07) 4126 3551D-bay hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 (07) 3204 8324e.t. grow home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 (07) 5591 6501eye Lighting Australia pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 (07) 3335 3556green power hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 (07) 5428 1133grow hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 (07) 3816 3206hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 (07) 5593 7385hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 (07) 4091 3217hydroponics & garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 (07) 4035 5422hydroponics today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 (07) 4683 3133indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068J&K hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 (07) 3271 6210KY garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 (07) 3375 9098nerang hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5527 4155north Queensland hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 (07) 4728 3957northern hydroponics383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 (07) 4054 5884pioneer hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 (07) 4959 2016SA hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 (07) 3285 1355Simply hydroponics gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5596 2250

Sunstate hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 (07) 3848 5288Sunstate hydroponics67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 (07) 5479 1011the hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 (07) 3354 1588tumbling Waters hydroponics2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 (07) 4096 6443Walsh’s Seeds garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4636 1077

SOUTH AUSTRALIAAmazon Aquariums & gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8359 1800Ascot park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 (08) 8357 4700barry’s hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 (08) 8281 4066bolzon home & garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 (08) 8265 0665Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 (08) 8396 3133Complete hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 (08) 8258 4022Country hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 (08) 8645 3105D & W Dependable hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 (08) 8287 6399Festive hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 (08) 8523 5100Fulham gardener nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 (08) 8235 2004Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 (08) 8447-1122glandore hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 (08) 8371 5777greener then green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 (08) 8386 2596greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 (08) 8382 0100greenhouse Superstore Royal park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 (08) 8447 5899ground-up Service nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 (08) 8264 9455harvest time hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 (08) 8244 0222hindmarsh hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 (08) 8346 9461highland hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 (08) 8395 4455hong Kong hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 2000hydro heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 (08) 8391 1880hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 (08) 8272 2000hydro technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323Koko’s hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463Larg’s bay garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788martins Road hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011mitre 10 Drive in 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813new Age hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008professional hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133professional hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172professional hydroponics113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441

RETAILdirectory


Seaton hydroponics129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 (08)82682636 Soladome Aquaculture & hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042South Coast hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380State hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991tea tree gully hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455two Wells hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287urban grow Solutions1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040 West garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

TASMANIAAdvanced hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 (03) 6344 5588ezy grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 (03) 6243 9490garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 (03) 6330 1177green Acres hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 (03) 6245 1066growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6273 6088hydroponics Systems131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 (03) 6278 3457 hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 (03) 6435 4411organic garden Supplies tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 (03) 6424 7815tas hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6272 2202the hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 (03) 6273 1411the hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 (03) 6340 2222

vICTORIAAlbury hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000All Seasons hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000banksia greenhouse and outdoor garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070barb’s hydro and nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584bayside hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 (03) 9775 0495belgrave hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712brew ‘n’ grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006Casey hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697Casey hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776Chronic hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133Complete garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776Discount hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 (03) 9568 1860echuca hydroponic nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036echuca pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080excel Distributors pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083F.L.o.W. plants and environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 (03) 9769 1411global hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400greenleaf hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898

greenleaf hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311greenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425holland Forge pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372hydroware 59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452hyalite bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946hyalite global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510indoor garden Company29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515Jb Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399Just hydroponics Deer park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861Just hydroponics geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley home brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055melton hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256midtown hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300one Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177pam’s home brew & hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143palms & plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575prestige hydroponics pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083 Shepparton hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433Simply hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344Simply hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677Sunlite hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730Sunray hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422Supply net international p/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600the hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662Waterworks hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455

WESTERN AUSTRALIAAccent hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9375 9355Aqua post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 (08) 9354 2888Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 1800 640 222bunbury Alternate growing Supplies8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 (08) 9725 7020Creative hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9528 1310great Southern hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 (08) 9721 8322greenfingers World of hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109 (08) 9452 0546greenfingers World of hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 (08) 9274 8388

greenlite hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 (08) 9345 5321growsmart hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 (08) 9841 3220hydro nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 (08) 9336 7368hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 (08) 9248 1901hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9206 0188hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 (08) 9371 5757isabella’s hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9306 3028Johnson’s nursery garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 (08) 9921 6016neerabup organic & hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 (08) 9404 7155one Stop hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 (08) 9471 7000perth hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 (08) 9478 1211Reptile and grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9527 2245 Southwest hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 (08) 9534 8544the grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 (08) 9356 7044bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 (08) 9217 4400the Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9473 1473the Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 1495the Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 (08) 9274 3232Water garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017 (08) 9443 7993

NEW ZEALANDeasy grow new Lynn 3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland 09 827 0883 easy grow manukau15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland 09 263 7560guru gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth 06 758 6661otaki hydroponics1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki 06 364 2206house of hydro221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellingtonpet and garden10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch 03 377 2507grow and brew14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland 09 426 2095green Day hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui 07 575 4090Switched on gardenerNumber 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei (09)438 0223Switched on gardenerUnit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson (09) 837 1210Switched on gardenerUnit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga (09) 576 0296Switched on gardenerNumber 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton (07) 850 8351Switched on gardenerNumber 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings (06) 876 7885Switched on gardenerNumber 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington (04) 472 5265Switched on gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield (09) 443 0106Switched on gardenerNumber 1 Rata Street, New Lynn (09) 826 4444Switched on gardenerNumber 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau (09) 263 4336Switched on gardenerNumber 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga (07) 579 9840Switched on gardenerNumber 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt (04) 526 3913Switched on gardenerNumber 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson (03) 546 4769Switched on gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood (03) 381 0937Switched on gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD (03) 374 5682Switched on gardenerNumber 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin (03) 456 1980


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www.maximumyield.comMaximum Yield November/December will be available November 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and New Zealand. Subscriptions are available by contacting [email protected] or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php

Plus: Innovative instrumentation, ballasts and blazers, cloners, trimmers, grow tents and more.

Over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that may contribute to the overall flavour experience have been identified in tomato fruit.

The difference between bacteria and enzymes is pretty big. Bacteria are alive whereas enzymes are weapons of bacteria, produced as part of their metabolism.

Although fungus gnats are typically harmless to healthy plants, a healthy garden is not always immune.

Seaweed and fish emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant, enhancing chlorophyll content and supplying organic trace elements.

Absinthe is legendary for supposedly turning a generation of writers mad from hallucinations, but the main medicinal ingredient in anise, anethole, is not to blame.

The heat producing or burning compound contained in chilli peppers is capsaicin, which was first isolated from plant tissue in 1877.

The quantity of hydrogen peroxide that you can introduce in the nutrient solution without killing your plant is so small that it is not enough to completely free the solution from pathogens.

The medicinal herb anise is versatile and can be used for flavouring desserts, foods and liquors, or for curing tummyaches.

Hydroponic H2O: Water Quality and TreatmentJust because the water coming out of your tap is clear and healthy for you, doesn’t mean your plants will feel the same way. Dr. Lynette Morgan describes what problem water looks like and solutions to it.

Atmospheric Excellence: If Plants Could TalkBecause we may not always know what our plants need during the crucial grow and bloom phases of life, Hans Kersbergen delves into controlling climate conditions in this no-nonsense article.

Drying and Preserving HerbsThe ancient process of drying and preserving herbs for medicinal and culinary purposes is presented by Matt LeBannister.

DO YOU KNOW?DO YOU KNOW?COMING UP INNov-Dec


http://www.genhydro.com

48 Maximum Yield | September/October 201148 Maximum Yield Australia | November/December 2010


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