Mbr Manual Mtb

8/11/2019 Mbr Manual Mtb

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CONTENTS


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BASICS The mountain bike

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Anatomy of an mtbDont know a chain ring from a cassette sprocket?Let our bike map guide you around your bike

For those that dont know their way

round a modern mountain bike,

weve put together this simple bike

map. Its a list of all the important

parts on a bike, where they are, what

they look like and how you adjust

them. The blueprint is a great place

to start before getting stuck into any

of the more involved step by steps

further on in this supplement.

You can also tot up all the tools

needed for repairs by cross

referencing them on page 8.

Think of this as a workshop sat

nav but hopefully without the

blind alleys or low bridges.

BARS & STEM

A stem clamps both the fork

steerer and the handlebars.

Attached to the bars are the

brake levers and shifters.

You can raise the height of

the stem with spacers.

HEADSET

By tightening a bolt inside the

cap on top of the stem, you ca n

pre-load the headset bearings,

eliminating play. The bearings

are pressed into cups, which

are pressed into the frame by a

headset press.

SADDLE

Most saddles fit most

seatposts. The rails of

the saddle are held by

the seatpost clamps.

SEATPOST

This is a dedicated diameter

to match the frame. Its

clamped by a collar; with

either a quick release lever

or fixed Allen bolt.

WHEELS

Wheels go out of true

(alignment) but you can fix

this at home using a spoke

key. Wheel bearings and

the free hub body can be

replaced or serviced but

require specialist tools.

TYRES & TUBES

Some tyre and rim combos

result in a loose fit but they

can also be super tight. Use

extra long tyre levers.

SUSPENSION FORK

You can remove the fork from the

bike with an Allen key. Usually air

sprung on trail bikes, so a shock

pump is required to adjust the

sag. Specialist tools are needed

for servicing/repairs.

FRONT DERAILLEUR

Either direct mount,

E-type or band on,

the latter being the

most common. Can be

adjusted vertically for

different size rings.

CHAINRINGS

These are replaceable and can

be removed via four or five Allen

key bolts. Some have Torx bolts.

REAR SHOCK

If its an air shock

a shock pump is

required to adjust

the pressure. Bolted

to the frame.

CABLES

An inner and outer

cable. Cutters are

required to cut the

outer to length.

REAR DERAILLEUR

Bolts onto a hanger

on the right-hand

dropout. Replaceable

to stop damage. High

and low limit screwsadjust the derailleurs

range of movement.

CHAIN

SRAM chains use a split link

(Power Link) but Shimano

chains need to be joined with

a chain tool (breaker).

CASSETTE

The sprockets or cogs.

Held on by a lockring,

two tools work in

tandem to loosen

and remove it.

CRANKSET/BOTTOM BRACKET

Most frames use external bottom brackets.

The cup/bearings thread in and tightened by a

socket-style tool. Press in designs are popular

but they only work with specific frames. The

crank axle pushes through the cups and t he left

hand crank clamps onto the axle.


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Bike walk-throughFrom saddles to suspension forks, well show you the basics ofbike layout so you can know your ride like the back of your hand

Disc brakesBrake manufacturers use

different lever and caliper

shapes/designs and even fill the

brakes with different fluid but

they all function in a similar way

and share common features.

Reach adjustment is either

tool free or adjusted via an Allenk h b k f h l

Split clamp (hinged

clamp). Allows you to

remove and service the

brakes or swap levers

without having to remove

the other controls.

Bite point, also called free

stroke on Shimano brakes. This

doesnt actually move the pads

any closer to the rotor but closes

off the timing port in the master

earlier so the fluid is pushed

earlier and the pads start to

engage sooner.


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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

StemA mountain bike stem has a split clamp where it grips the steerer and a

removable faceplate that holds the handlebar. Its available in a range of

lengths, rises and steerer sizes.

Easton TopLock

technology. The top two

bolts lock the faceplate

into the stem body

when tightened. Theres

better grip, stiffness

and improved stem

bolt fatigue.

Some stems

have one, two or

three bolts on thesteerer clamp.

Stems comes in anything from 40mm to 150mm lengths, in 10 and even 5mm

increments. Stem length is measured from the ce ntre line in the front clamp to the centre

of the steerer tube. Most Ahead stems can be flipped over for lower rise and have universal

decals and face plates so it doesnt look like you have the stem upsidedown.

Bar size. The centre bulge

of the handlebar is now

an oversized 31.8mm for

greater stiffness. Some

older and cheaper bikes

may still use 25.4mm bars.

Saddle

The standard

rail size is 7mm but

8 and 9mm rails

are also available.

Carbon rails are

oval shaped for

stiffness but still

allow space in

between for the

seatpost clamp.

There are two halves to a saddle

the shell is made from nylon or

composite, with either real leather,

synthetic or a Kevlar cover. The rails

are chromoly steel, hollow chromoly,

titanium, carbon or an alloy that

combines several elements.

iBeam saddles use a

proprietary mounting

system. This mono-rail is

moulded into the base of

the shell and slots into a

mating seatpost clamp.

Seatpost: rigid

Seatpost: dropper

Available in a range of sizes from

25.0mm to a whopping 34.9mm.

Mountain bike frames are

smaller than road frames and have

greater standover height so the

seatpost needs to be longer

most mtb posts are 350-400mm.

The twin-bolt

of the Thomson

Elite is one of the

most common

clamp designs.

On a layback post

the head or shaft

is offset, offering a

wider range of fore/

aft adjustment.

An in-line post

has the head

direct above the

shaft, with very

little layback.

Due to issues with housing the

internals inside a small tube dropper

posts are mostly available in 30.9 and

31.8mm diameters, although Gravity

Dropper (one of the pioneers) offers

a 27.2mm size for steel frames a nd

older bikes. Some frame builders have

changed their seat tubes to match a nd

you can fit dropper posts to frames with

oversized seat tubes via a shim.

Fixed or infinite

travel. Two types of

design are available,

one with pre-sets at

specific heights and

one that can be locked

anywhere between the

upper and lower limits.

Ride height

adjustable seatposts

are adjustable

in height via aremote lever on the

handlebar or a lever

under the saddle.

Most dropper

posts use

hydraulics and

an air spring tocontrol height. The

Gravity Dropper

uses a simple steel

spring-loaded bolt.


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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Rear derailleur

Derailleurs

are available in

short, medium and

long cage, which

Shimano grades

SS, SG and SGS.

You can consider

them loosely as

DH, 2x10 and

3x10 respectively.

Shimanos top end mountain bike rear derailleurs

are now available in Shadow and Shadow Plus. Both

are low profile designs for greater cleara nce but the

Plus derailleur has an internal clutch mechanism,

which helps reduce chain slap and noise.

SRAM rear derailleurs feature

1:1 Actuation. This refers to the

ratio between the shifter cable

travel and derailleur movement.

With SRAM 1:1 the amount

of cable pulled at the shifter

causes about an equal amount

of derailleur movement. SRAM

1:1 mechs are not compatible

with Shimano and visa/versa.

Front derailleur

nAn E-type front

derailleur mounts to

a plate that sits

between

the drive

side BB cup

and the frame. A

screw threaded

into a boss on the

seat tube also

holds it in place.

nLow direct mount derailleur

bolts directly to bosses on the

chainstay. There are a number

of different mount standards,

manufacturers such as SRAM

makes several models S1,

S2 and S3 options and more.

Theres no facility to raise or

lower them so

they are

speed and

chainring

specific.

nHigh direct mount (D Type) was developed

by Shimano and bolts to a square boss

welded or formed into the seat tube

or a surrogate extension. Two and

three-speed derailleurs are available

but theyre not size specific, so can be

raised or lowered to accommodate

different size chainrings.

nCassettes can

include any number

of cogs, with 10speed

the new standard

nConventional front derailleurs

clamp to the seat tube and are

available in four sizes 28.6,

31.8, 34.9m, 38.2mm

nTo accommodate the

variety of frame designs,

clamps on derailleurs are

available in high or low

band. The main pic is a high

band, this is a low-band.

Cassette

Bottom bracketAlthough SRAM and Shimano

use a different interface between

the crank and cups and the crank

installation, both styles of bottom

bracket will thread into a standard

bottom bracket shell, which is

either 68 or 73mm wide.

To accommodate

the two widths spacers are fitted

between the cup and frame but

again, the number is different for

both brands.

nPress FitThe bottom bracket is

pressed into the frame like a

headset, there are no threads

in the frame and the shell is

generally wider. There are

several widths used by bike

manufacturers including

BB86, BB90 and BB92.

nBB30An oversized system using

a 30mm axle and shell,

to house larger diameter

bearings. The width of

the BB is the same as a

standard model.

nPF30Press Fit 30 uses the same

size bearing as a BB30 but

with fixed cups that increase

the bottom bracket shell to

46mm diameter. PF30 uses

the 30mm spindle and is the

same width as BB30.

nBB386EVOThe latest standard from

FSA using the diameter of

the original BB30 but a much

wider 83mm shell and press

fit bearings.

OTHER TYPES OF BOTTOM BRACKET


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FORK TRAVEL WEIGHT

Fox 32 F loat 10 0mm 1 .6kg

Fox 32 F loat 120 mm 1 .67kg

Fox 32 F loat 140 mm 1 .7kg

Fox 36 Float 160mm 2.03kg

Fox 36 Flo at 18 0m m 2 .3 8kg

FORK TRAVEL STANCHIONSIZE

RockShox Totem 180mm 40mm

RockShox Lyrik 160mm 35mm

RockShox Revelation 150mm 32mm

RockShox SID 80mm 32mm

nWEIGHTAs the travel increases so does

the weight. This is because the

fork is longer and theres often a

switch in spring medium from air

(which weighs nothing) to steel,

which weighs something.

nSPRING TYPES

There are several types of

spring used in suspension

forks. Air is the most common

because it weighs nothing

and you can adjust the spring

rate and pre-load for different

weight riders on the trail with

a shock pump.

All air forks have a negative

spring, which helps the fork

overcome the inherent stiction

(static friction) of the air spring

and allows it to follow dips andcompressions in the trail.

As the name suggests, coil forks

feature wound steel or sometimes

titanium springs. These are avail-

able in different spring rates but to

reduce costs some manufacturers

also offer a single fixed rate with

an air assist, which allows riders

to adjust the pre-load without

having to swap springs.

Suspension forks come in all

shapes and sizes. The big names to

look out for include Fox, RockShox,

Marzocchi, Manitou, X-Fusion

and DT Swiss. Most manufactur-

ers make a range of forks and its

fair to say as travel increases, so

does size and weight. The shortest

travel fork is 80mm; the longest

is 203mm. The shortest forks are

designed for cross-country racing

and are the thinnest and lightest.

Long travel 200mm forks are used

for downhill racing and theyre the

heaviest and the biggest.

nSTANCHIONSA longer travel fork is under a greater

load so to help boost stiffness and

strength manufacturers often increase

the size of the upper and lower tubes.

Triple clamp DH forks have the most

travel but they dont always have the

biggest legs because the extra crown

(brace) helps boost stiffness.


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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Suspension: forks

nTriple clamp

downhill forks,

like the RockShox

Boxxer pictured,

offer 200mm

or travel and a

20mm bolt thru

axle for stiffness

nLock-out: A mechanism that usually locks the

suspension in a fully extended position. Most

lock-outs are mounted on top of the fork leg so

can be reached easily when riding.

nRebound

adjuster: This

controls the

amount of

damping during

the extension

phase. This is

the red adjuster

on Fox and

RockShox forks,

blue on Manitou.

nCompression adjuster: This

controls the amount of damping

on compression. This is usually

low-speed damping to reduce

brake dive and improve stability

nThreshold/lockout force

adjuster: Although there are

several different systems

in use, all under specific

names, this feature allows

you to adjust the amount of

force needed to overcome

the compression lock-out.

nTravel adjust:

An on-the-fly

travel adjustment

feature, allowing

you to shorten

the fork travel

and lower the

front end for

climbing and

extend it again

for descending.


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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Suspension: rear shocksMost rear shocks are either standard off-the-shelf models like, say, on a

Orange Five (below), or theyre specific to the bike and suspension like on

the Specialized Stumpy Evo tested last month (bottom). Regardless of the

position and travel, most rear shocks share similar features.

nSPRINGS

Two types

of spring

are used

in the rear

shock

air and coil.

Unlike a coil fork where the

spring is inside the leg the coil isexposed on the outside of a rear

shock. Theres no need to put it

inside plus its easy to access if

you want to change the rate or

adjust the pre-load.

On an air shock the air is

contained in an air canister or

air can. This is available in

different sizes or volumes. Air

preload and spring rate are

adjusted by adding air through

a Schrader valve on the side of

the shock.

nProPedal: The

adjustable low-

speed damping

platform on Fox

rear shocks,

designed to

improve pedalling

efficiency. Other

manufacturers

use different

names and

adjustment levels.

nKashima coat: Foxs hard

anodising that creates a super

slippery surface on the shocks

air sleeve. Its designed to reduce

friction. This gold finish is only

featured on the factory shocks.

nBoost Valve: This is Foxs position

sensitive damping, which offers

lighter damping in the first part

of the travel but gradual increases

it deeper into the travel. Bike

companies stipulate a specific

amount of boost valve pressure to

match the kinematics (behaviour)

of the rear suspension.

nSag gradients:RockShox

proprietary

sag percentage

gradients on the

shock damper body

(also the fork upper

tubes) make setup

simple and accurate.

nRebound adjustment:

All rear shocks have

rebound damping via a

dial on the shock body. It

works in exactly the sameway as the fork.


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SET UP Bike fit

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Make your bike fitThe fit of your bike is dictated by the relative position of three contacts points thesaddle, bars and pedals. By altering this triangle you can affect pedalling efficiency,comfort, control, weight distribution and even grip on the tyres, so there are just acouple of simple things to consider before riding your bike for the first time

There are several ways to achieve

the correct saddle height for

riding off-road but its important

to remember your saddle is really

only set this high when climbing,

you will definitely want to put the

saddle down when riding technical

terrain or while descending.

There are some pretty

scientific ways to work out your

saddle height using percentages

of inside leg measurement but the

following is a simple set up that

seems to work for most riders.Start by positioning the saddle so

the seatpost clamp is directly in the

middle of the rails and the saddle

is level. You can make adjustments

later if its too far back or the angle

is uncomfortable. Its also worth

remembering you should make all

adjustments in your riding gear and

cycling shoes as they can make a

big difference to the pedal/saddle

distance. Then sit on the saddle

with the cranks in the 6-12 oclock

position. Its generally assumed that

when your heel just touches the top

of the pedal with your leg straightits at the right height.

You can then try this by riding

round. Your leg should be slightly

bent when pedalling and you

shouldnt have to rock your hips

from side to side.

When it comes to venturing

off-road dont be afraid to drop

your saddle. You can drop the

saddle (say an inch or two) for

general traversing or flowy

technical trails, even technical

climbs. Some riders like to get it

right down out of the way on steep

descents but others like to feel thebike beneath them try both.

You can adjust the height of

the stem and handlebars by

repositioning the spacers on the

fork steerer, often theres around

20-30mm of adjustment. You canalso flip the stem over to change

the rise.

Its difficult to recommend a

particular handlebar height,

simply because there are so many

variables and we dont always

ride on flat ground. The general

assumption is you run a higher

bar for downhill and a lower bar

for XC. This makes sense because

on the climbs the bike is tilted

upwards and on the descents its

tilted downwards and this changes

your weight distribution and grip.

Essentially, when climbing you want

to weight the front wheel through

turns and stand up without it feelinglike a stretch. On the descents the

higher bar position allows you to

push back, reducing the weight on

the front wheel and fork dive, which

also increases steering stability.

Generally you should start with

at least one 10mm spacer under the

stem but its also worth setting up

the fork sag correctly. We see a lot

of riders running their stems too

high simply because they have their

forks too soft.

Saddle height

Saddle fore/aftThe saddles position in relation

to the cranks affects pedalling

efficiency but as weve already

said this is pretty unimportant if

youre stood up and descending

with your saddle down. Its still

worth starting out with a neutral

position though. If your bike hasa layback (or offset, bottom pic)

seatpost dont be afraid to move

the saddle all the way forward

if you feel youre sitting too far

back. Also think about changing

the post to an in-line design

if you think youre sitting too

far forward.

Stem height


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Brake lever positionOne finger braking

A brake lever is just a simple lever, so if you put

your finger at the very end of it you will generate

the greatest amount of leverage and braking force.

But one finger braking also has other advantages

its easier to feather the brakes with one finger

than two, which is the sort of control you want most

of the time. One finger braking leaves the other

fingers wrapped securely round the grip and you

also unhook you thumb for gear shifts. And with

Shimano shifters offering two-way release its easy

to shift to a harder or easier gear with your thumb,

which doesnt have to move far. The best thing is

if you want to generate more braking force its

relatively easy to go to two finger braking by

moving your hand across.

There are two styles of one finger braking

index finger or middle finger. The latter means you

usually wrap your index finger round the handlebar

or use it for shifting. In terms of set up it means

you may have to position your brake levers slightly

further outboard, overlapping the grip. But whats

important is the position of the lever blade, not the

gap between the clamp and the grip.

Two finger braking

Both the index and middle finger applying pressure

at the same time. Brake position is similar to themiddle finger scenario above. As weve said, one

finger braking

is good for

modulating

speed, two

finger braking

for coming to

a sudden stop.

If you set the

brake levers up

correctly you

can have both.

SET UP Controls

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

ControlsBuy a new bike and the stem, handlebars, brakes,shifters and grips shouldbe fitted and tightenedcorrectly, but you might find theyve been set atsome jaunty angles its worth spending timepositioning them correctly as it can make a

huge difference to confidence and control

Reach adjustmentAt the same time youre

adjusting the position of the

brake levers youll need to set

the reach. On some (radial

piston) brakes the lever actually

moves in a tighter arc and can

change position as it travelstowards the grip.

Reach adjust sets the starting

position of the brake lever rela-

tive to the handlebar and its

generally related to hand size,

although its also dependent

on lever travel, brake feel and

rider preference. Ideally you

dont want to stretch to reach

the brake lever or unhook any of

your fingers to do so.

When the pads contact the

rotor and start to bite your

hand should be in a loose fist

shape with your wrists slightly

down. If the levers are too far

away you hands will be in a

claw shape and your wrists will

be up. This can actually cause

arm pump and discomfort on

long descents.

You may have to compromise

slightly on reach adjustment

if youre two finger braking

because your index finger can

get crushed against the bar by

the brake lever.

Brake lever profileThe face of the brake lever (blade) where your finger wraps

onto it is different from brake to brake. Some have a thinner,

flatter shape, others are more convex. Some even have holes

drilled in for better

purchase. You cant

really make changes

to blades but plenty

of manufacturers

offer carbon upgradesand these are often

better formed and

more ergonomic.

Brake lever angleThe same reason you dont want the

levers too far away is the same reason

you dont want the levers pointing

too far down. It causes you to stretchforward when braking and since you

do the majority of your braking on

the downhill

it can actually

throw you too

far forward

over the front

wheel. Think

about keeping

your elbows

down and wrist

horizontal or

slightly down. If

you cant reach

the levers in that

position they are

too low.

About 20 from

horizontal is a good

starting point. If it feels odd just

make small changes over time.

Reach adjustment is

usually accessed at the

back of the lever blade

via a small Allen key

bolt, although a lot of

top end brakes now have

tool free adjustment.

If you run your brake

levers snug (obviously

keeping to the factory torque

settings) there should be

enough scope for them to

move in an impact, which

should save them from

snapping and may even

mean youll be able to

carry on the ride.


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SET UP Controls

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

GripsGrip size

Weve been told that you buy a

tennis racquet according to the grip

size, or you tune it afterwards. To an

extent the same is true of the grips

on a mountain bike and itd be fair

to say riders with small hands want

small diameter grips, riders with

big hands want big. However, manyriders say thin grips as generally

better as they offer increased feel,

better control and reduced fatigue.

Grip type

Grips come in two types, stick on

and lock on. The former are just

the standard grips you see on

most bikes and theyre usually

made from a branded rubber

(sometimes called Karton/

Krayton rubber) and glued

in place.ODI pioneered Lock-On grips and

its grip consists of a cartridge, the

actual bit with the grip on, and two

locking collars that clamp it to the

handlebar. Other manufacturers use

alternative mounting methods like

a single clamp or expandable end

cap. The cartridge is a two-piece

design with a rubber outer layer

and nylon inner and can be replaced

once the rubber surface has worn

away. Theyre interchangeable too,

with different sizes, compounds

and styles available. Thinner Lock-

On grips use less rubber but that

means reduced cushioning and

durability, so if you want a thin,

comfortable grip you may have to

go to a stick on design.

Grips come in a wide variety of

diameters with the average around

32mm. Thicker grips can impact on

the shifter function, especially the

trigger release as it can touch the

grip before completing the shift.

Positioning can help but failing that

trying a narrower grip may be the

only option.

Some manufacturers mix

Kevlar with the rubber to increase

durability and some also use

really soft sticky rubber for wet

weather grips.

StemStems come in lots of different

lengths and lots of rises. The

Aheadset design allows the stem

to slide up and down on the steerertube and with the use of removable

spacers you fine tune the height

easily and quickly. The faceplate on

most stems is also removable letting

you to swap the stem (to experiment

with

different

lengths)

without

having to

remove all

the controls.

Oury grips

have a fatter

diameter

than many.

Ergon grips feature

larger platforms to

support the palms.

Shifter positionBrake lever position also dictates

whether you clamp the shifters

in or out-board of the b rake lever

clamps. Both Shimano and SRAM

shifters also have a fine tune

adjustment to set the side to

side angle.Mounting the shifter on the

brake eliminates the clamp and

any conflicts with the levers but

the current Shimano Ispec clamp

system for XTR (49.99) and XT

(29.99) is expensive and only

worth

getting if

you cant

achieve

the correct

brake/shifter

set up. Avids

MatchMaker X

clamp system fits XX,

X0 and Elixir CR Mag disc

brakes, but its not cheap

either, at 47.99. The original

2-bolt MatchMaker

clamps are

still the

cheapest,

at 29.99.

On SRAM shifters the

release lever only works

if you push it, whereas

Shimano shifters have a pull

and push function called

2-way release. As a result

you may have to angle

SRAM shifters slightly

downwards to access

the release lever.


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SET UP Controls

One piece outerThis is an unbroken

length of outer from

the shifter to the

derailleur. It offers

b tt li d

Cable routingSince most mountain bikes are

designed in the land of the free

they come with USA style rout-

ing, which means the rear brake

is on the right hand side. If you

swap the brakes to the correct

position for UK riding it can

often cause the cables to rub onthe frame or the fork crown. The

answer is to run the rear brake

round the left hand side of the

head tube and cross it further

down. This should eliminate rub

and theyll be no need for those

ugly looking patches.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


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SeatingWith hundreds of saddles on the market its hard to recommend a

specific model but you can tune the comfort of the saddle by tilting it

slightly up or down and positioning it slightly further forward or

backward. Weve looked at the positioning elsewhere in this guide

but what makes this process a lot simpler is having a seatpost with

independent fore/aft and tilt adjustment. This allows you to change oneaspect of the saddle to see how it feels without affecting the other.

On a trail a mountain bike saddle should be level or slightly nose

down. This reduces pressure (and all the associated problems with

numbness) at the front of the saddle and also lifts the rear and

shoulders of the saddle creating more of a platform to push against

when climbing.

Weve tested enough saddles to know the shape, padding, length

and profile are all down to personal taste but its also true that fatter,

better saddles are more comfortable than lightweight race saddles. If

you are going down the lightweight route pay particular attention to

the nose of the saddle.

SET UP Controls

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

HandlebarsThere are two types of bars used

on mountain bikes straight and

riser. Straight bars are not perfectly

straight, they usually have some sort

of sweep, the idea being it places

your wrists and arms at a more

natural angle.

As the name suggests, riser bars

have rise and also sweep welllook at the geometry of them in a bit

more detail below.

Riser bar geometryBar height or rise is usually measured from a centre line through the

stem to a centre line through the control centres (flat sections of the

handlebar). Bars comes in various rises from 12mm to 75mm. You can

tune the bar height by adding or removing spacers on the headset,

although this also changes reach.

The two other measurements worth taking note of are the upsweep

and back sweep. These two are im portant because they allow you

to tilt the bar so tha t it feels comfortable. Theyre also related tilting the bar forwards reduces the back sweep but increases the

up sweep.

Up sweep and back sweep is measured at the control centres from

a centre line, although weve seen bars that are measured slightly

differently. Weve also seen bars that are not what companies claim

or that have the two angles mixed up. Either way, if you play around

with the tip and bend you will need to reset the angle of the levers

every time.

Bar widthBars come in various widths, from

580 to 780mm and even wider. Its

pretty much a given that you see

narrower bars on

cross country race

bikes and the very

widest bars (800mm)

on DH race bikes. Most

bars have cut marks

so you can trim them

to suit your riding style

and preference. Its a

myth that you match

the bar width to

your shoulder

width, but well

look at that

in more

detail in the

fit section.

Up sweep

Back sweep

Running a dropper

post? Save weight

by ditching the

quick release seat

collar for a fixed

clamp. Hope even

makes a modular

clamp that you can

convert one way or

the other.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


14/30

SET UP Suspension

28 29

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

SuspensionSetting your suspension up correctly is not that difficult,but it can be an intimidating thing to tackle if its new toyou. In this section we arm you with the knowledge tomake suspension set up a doddle

There are three main adjustments

on a suspension fork and a rear

shock: spring preload, compression

damping and rebound damping.

The spring preload allows you to set

the sag and determines how much

travel there is in compression and

for extension. Damping controls

the speed of the shock though both

phases compression damping

slows the shock when it is being

compressed; rebound damping

slows the shock when it is

rebounding. The first thing to get

right is the amount of sag.

Setting sagDepending who you talk to, how

much sag you run can vary from 15

to 35 per cent. Some fork and bike

manufactures say you shouldnt run

more than a 30 per cent range of

sag, others recommend certain

settings for specific terrain and

riding styles XC riders should

run 25 per cent sag,

downhillers 35 per

cent for example. If

youre a trail rider

then start with

at least 25 per

cent sag, you can always change it

later on.

To work out the amount of sag

you need, multiply the shock stroke

length by 0.25. You dont need to

measure the total length of theshock or consult a manufacturers

website, just put a ruler or tape

measure on the shock shaft. The

O-ring maybe off the end of the

shock or may have stopped several

millimetres before, that doesnt

matter at this stage as we just want

to get you up and running.

Start by wearing all the gear youd

ride in, including a full pack. Slide

the rubber O-ring on the body of

the shock right up against the air

RockShox negativespring setupThe negative spring inside a

Fox Float is a fixed steel coil but

most of RockShoxs dual

air forks have an adjustableair negative, which is accessed

via the bottom of the fork.

RockShox includes a table on

the back of the fork for easy

reference and recommends you

balance both pressures. But if

you want a little more support

then Id run a little less negative

pressure, the opposite if you

want a bit more grip. Theres a

lot of scope for tuning and its

worth experimenting.

Since the negative is high-

pressure, small volume it may

seem to lose more air over time

than the positive chamber butit doesnt. Its just that more

air actually goes into the pump

when you

fit it.TOP TIP

When you alter the

negative air pressure in the

fork you may see some oil

leaking out of the valve.

This is lubrication fluid and

to prevent it coming out

simply turn the fork upside-

down when making any

adjustments.

TOP TIPMake a note of the air

pressure in both the

shock and fork, write it

on a bit of tape and stickit to the frame or put it

in your phone.

can and turn all the

compression settings

to minimum and, if

you have a Fox air can,

make sure the ProPedal

is in the open setting onthe rear shock. Then climb on the

bike and sit on the saddle with your

feet on the pedals, gently gripping

the handlebar. Dismount, being

careful not to compress the shock

any further and youll see the O-ring

has moved along the shock shaft.

Now get out a ruler and measure

the sag point. Since you know the

total travel you can then extrapolate

what 25 per cent sag should be. If the

shock stroke is 50mm, 25 per cent is

12.5mm. Add or

subtract air and

repeat the process

until you get the O-ring

in the correct position.

For the fork you willprobably have to lash a zip-tie

round the stanchion, as it might

not have an O-ring. But you set the

fork sag in exactly the same way,

except instead of sitting on the

saddle stand on the pedals and lean

forward holding the bars. Dont

bounce down on the fork; just let

your weight compress it. Measure

the position of the zip tie and add

or subtract air until you get the

correct sag.

TOP TIPOnce youve set the

sag using a zip-tie on

the fork leg cut this off

again. At full bottom

out this can become

compressed between the

crown and lower leg and

damage the seal.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


15/30

SET UP Suspension

30 31

BracketingIf youre new to suspension a good idea is to use a technique called

bracketing. You start at the extremes and work your way systematically to

your ideal setting. It works like this on the fork first find out how much

adjustment there is by turning the compression adjuster from fully firm to

fully soft counting the clicks. Set the adjuster at one end and ride your bike

(maybe around a short loop with a climb and descent) and then turn the

adjuster to other extreme and do another circuit. This will give you an idea

what compression damping can do and actually feels l ike, so you can make

a decision about whether its a too slow or a too quick. Next turn the dialone click in, ride the loop again and do the same at the other end. Eventually

youll get to a mid point but by then youll have a good idea what the whole

range of damping rides like and hopefully which setting felt best.

Do the exact same thing with the rebound adjuster, starting at the

extremes and working your way in. If you have platform adjustment on your

fork you could try that next. If you keep a record of your progression, how

certain settings worked on certain terrain or how changing the fork settings

affected the rear, you should eventually build up a picture of the overall

performance of your suspension.

This technique works equally well for the rear, although wed probably

start with the rebound damping first, making sure the ProPedal or

compression is set in the open position.

Terrain specificSome suspension manufactures

claim that your ideal suspension

setting is a function of the terrain.

Basically, that means tuning the

suspension so it manages the

trail youre actually riding on.

The problem is you d ont always

ride the same trails or even in the

same conditions, so that means

changing the settings to match.

For example if the riding is steeper

and rougher you might want to

firm up the fork and possibly a little

bit more low-speed compression

damping to prop it up in the

mid stroke.

On flatter terrain, especially if its

tight and twisty, youll need more

grip, so maybe set the suspension

a bit softer.

Dont be afraid to experiment

because the solution to problems is

not always obvious. In the trouble

shooting section on the Fox website

it says poor traction in washboard

corners is due to too little rebound

but poor traction in bumpy corners

is too much rebound damping. The

difference in terrain may be very

subtle but the settings are at

opposite ends of the dial.

At the end of the day theres no

perfect set up but if you do this in

a methodical and controlled way it

can pay off.

DampingJust as there are different sag

settings there are also different

settings for the compression

and rebound damping. Most

top end forks have both

adjustments and while some

entry-level forks have just

rebound damping adjustedexternally, this doesnt mean

theres no compression

damping its just fixed and

non-adjustable. Rear shocks

have rebound damping

adjustment and in the case

of a Fox Float RP23, a three

position compression adjust.

Regardless of the features, the

following procedure should get

you going.

01

02

03

04

Auto sagOn the majority of bikes you

have to set the sag using the

traditional method outlined

above, but with Specializeds new

AutoSag technology that may be

a thing of the past. By following

four simple steps you can achieve

pretty much the perfect

set up. All you do is open the

compression damping, pump up

the shock to 50psi above your

ride weight (in lbs), sit on the

bike, push the AutoSag button

releasing all the air, cycling the

bike a couple of times and thats

it. When we tested it in the

summer it performed flawlessly,

and if you want to run more or

less sag then you can add or

subtract more air as desired.

HOW IT WORKS

OPEN COMPRESSION DAMPING

Flick the ProPedal lever open or set the

Brain threshold to minimum.

PUMP UP SHOCK

Inflate shock (black valve) to 50psi

above rider weight, when the unit ofmeasurement is pounds. If using kilograms,

three times rider weight gives the correct

air pressure.

PUSH AUTOSAG BUTTON

Sit on the saddle in a riding position

then push the AUTOSAG valve (red) until air

flow stops completely. Release the button.

CYCLE SUSPENSION, GO RIDE

Cycle the suspension to charge the

negative air chamber. Tune compression and

rebound damping and go ride.

03

04

02

01

TOP TIPWhen you remove the pump

after making an adjustment you may

hear a bit of air leaking out. This is

actually air in the pump, not the fork/

shock. If you then re-fit the pump you

will notice the pressure has dropped byaround 5psi this is now in the pump.

You dont need to over inflate your fork

to compensate, just charge the fork

to the correct pressure and remove

the pump as normal.

TOP TIPIf youre having problems

getting consistent pressure

in your fork or it seems too

soft check the shock pump.

The pressure gauge can be

out by as much as 10psi. Itll

either need servicing

or replacing.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


16/30

SET UP Tyres

32 33

TyresThe right tyre choice is essential to your ridinghappiness, lending grip, comfort and speed to yourbike. Find out how to get the most from your rubber

What is a pinch flat(snakebite)?As the name suggests, this is a

double puncture wound on the

inner tube. Its caused when

the tube is nipped between

something solid say a rock

and the rim. Increasing the tyre

pressure or using a tyre with a

thicker sidewall (or swapping to a

tubeless system) can help reduce

the likelihood of pinch flats.

Tyre pressureRubber is porous meaning your tyre

leaches air all the time check your

tyre pressures before every ride,

and definitely before you make

any changes to the suspension.

Even a couple of psi can make a

big difference to grip and control.

Keep a record of your perfect tyre

pressures for each tyre you use and

stick to it. Since you cant trust

your thumb or most floor

pumps because theyre

inaccurate, buy a

pressure gauge.

One of

the best is

the Oxford

Digi Gauge

(19.99, pictured), as it resets

between readings and works for

both Presta and Schrader valves.

A good starting point is 30psi

but you can offset the pressure and

run less in the front, more in the

rear. If youre a heavy rider then

youll want to add more air to lessen

the risk of pinch flats, or fit larger

volume tyres. With thin

mud tyres, increase

the pressure in

the soft conditions

you wont need

the cushioning

effect and it

will reduce the

likelihood

of pinch flats.

Tyre directionSome tyres are direction specific

and it usually says on the side of the

tyre there may even be an arrow.

It matters most on the f ront as you

can usually run either direction onthe rear. As a general rule, if the

tread has some arrow-shaped knobs

they point forward (as you look

down onto the tyre). If the leading

edges of the knobs have been cut

away they also point forward. Dont

be afraid to mix and match sizes

and tyre brands and compounds.

A soft compound tyre on the front

will increase grip and directional

stability, a harder rear tyre will last

longer and roll faster.

Presta and Schrader valves the difference?A Schrader valve is like the one used on a car

and its designed for low pressure,

which is probably the reason it

was used for mountain bikes.

Presta tubes first appeared

on road bikes, theyre lighter

and can handle higherpressures (not that it

matters). Schrader tubes

are marginally cheaper.

Most rims come drilled for the narrower Presta

valve but if you want

to run Schrader you

will need to make

the hole bigger. All

tubeless valve cores

are Presta.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


17/30

SET UP Tyres

34 35

MudSlightly narrower (2.0-2.1in) than a

standard summer tyre to cut into

the mud. Square knobs are often

evenly spaced for better mud

shedding. Can be hard compound

in the centre and soft compound

edges for grip.

TrailSlightly larger volume (2.25-2.4in)

with a more aggressive tread

pattern. Blocky tread with some

sort of directional bias and the

leading edges of the centre

knobs are often angled to reduce

rolling resistance and increase

acceleration and speed.

DryVery small knobblies or sometimes

no knobs at all. Similar sized edge

knobs to a trail tyre but they can be

smaller too to save weight. Kevlar

bead and thin casing.

DownhillThe name says it all (2.5in and

above). Steel bead and a thicker

sidewall to stop pinch flats. Sticky

rubber compound. Hefty, at around

1,200-1,500g per tyre and 40-50.

Semi-slickTo maximise speed a semi-slick

usually has a diamond file tread

in the centre with knobbly edges.

The racers tyre.

TubelessTheres no inner tube inside. The

tyre has a special bead that locks

into a special groove in the rim bed

creating an airtight seal. A UST

(Universal Standard for Tubeless)

tyre will usually have an extra layer

of rubber on the inside to stop

air loss, which adds weight and

cost, but with no inner tube and a

thicker casing the risk of pi nch flats

is reduced. Its a misconception

that you can run lower pressure

for better grip what tubeless

actually allows you to do is run

sensible pressures and in some

cases smaller, lighter tyres, as you

dont have to over inflate them to

resist pinching.

What is tubeless ready?It will usually say on the sidewall if a tyre is

tubeless ready. It may have a compatible

bead, but it will have to be used with sealant,

a latex fluid that seals the bead onto the

rim, reduces air loss and plugs smaller holes

caused by flints and thorns. A tubeless-

ready tyre will be lighter than a dedicatedUST tyre and usually cheaper, although with

the rim strips, sealant and accessories it

doesnt always work out that way.

Tyres below (from

left) Maxxis Medusa,

Continental Rubber

Queen, Kenda Small

Block, Specialized

Butcher DH, Maxxis

High Roller SS, WTB

Weirwolf Tubeless

SET UP P d lIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


18/30

SET UP Pedals

36 37

PedalsMountain bike pedals come in two basic types flatsand clipless. A flat pedal is similar to the one on yourmums shopping bike, but the difference is its bigger,wider, made from aluminium and has pins for grip soyour foot doesnt slip off. A clipless pedal or SPD works

like a mini ski binding: The steel cleat, which fastens tothe bottom of your cycling shoe, clips into the pedal,which is multi-sided for ease of engagement

SPD pedalsSPD-specific shoes have a universal

two-bolt fitting to accept various

types of cleat. This design also lets

you tune the position of the cleat

most riders tend to centre the cleat

and twist it a couple of degrees

inwards to bring their heels in. This

neutral position is a good starting

point but the trend for trail riding

is to shunt the cleat all the way

back. Some riders even cut awaya portion of the sole and extend the

mounting slots to get the cleat even

further back. There are no rules

but its worth experimenting with

fore/aft cleat position to see if it

makes any difference to comfort,

pedalling efficiency, mud shedding

and engagement.

ModificationsnIf youre planning to make

adjustments grease the threads

of the cleat bolts so theyre

easier to get out again.

nIts also worth marking the

position of the cleats on the

sole of the shoe. If its difficultto see, stick some Gaffa tape on

the sole and draw on that.

nDont be afraid to cut away

part of the sole to improve

clearance and engagement.

nIts usual to replace worn

cleats every year. Telltale signs

of wear are clicking sounds,

upward play and difficult cleat

entry and exit.

nDifferent types

of pedal require

different types

of cleat. The black

cleat is a replacement

Shimano cleat,the gold one

is for Crank

Brothers pedals.

nCleats also have

some side-to-side adjustment

handy if youre experiencing

any rubbing on the crank

or frame.

Pro tipWatch how to set

up your cleats, with

three times World DH

champion Fabien Barel.

Check out our video:

http://bit.ly/pedalsetup

SET UP P d lIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


19/30

SET UP Pedals

38 39

Flat pedalsJust like with the SPD

interface, you need to think of

a flat pedal and flat shoe as a

system grip is dependent

on both. You can get by with

a pair of trainers but there

are several flat pedal shoes

on the market sporting stickyrubber soles, which are

designed to enhance grip.

The surface pattern of the

sole can also have a big

influence, a waffle style

pattern for example allows

the pins of the pedal to dig in.

The curvature of the shoe

also creates more contact

with the pedal: the ball of

your foot has a slight curve

to it so it makes sense for the

pedal to mirror this shape.

Some flat pedals are concave

front to back, some are also

concave side to side. The sizeor surface area also plays a

big part in grip levels as more

of the shoe is in contact with

the pedal.

Usually there are around

10-15 pins on each side

of a flat pedal. Most are

removable so you can alter

the placement, height, shape

and number. A lot is downto personal preference but if

youve never used flat pedals

before its worth removing

the centre pin at the back of

the pedal as its the one that

will cut into your shin if your

foot slips off.

ModificationsnUse Loctite on

grub screws.

nUse a quality or

new Allen key.

nRemove damaged

pins with locking

pliers (Mole Grips).nMost soft shoes

bed in and soften

up accelerate this

process by walking in

them for a couple of

days before riding.

Sticky soled shoes from Shimano (top) and Five Ten

CLOTHING The basicsIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


20/30

CLOTHING The basics

40 41

What to wearIf youre just starting out for the first time there simplyis no need to spend a weeks wages on a new outfitwhen all you need are the basics

HelmetTheres a big debate about wearing a helmet but if you crash and land on

your head you can fracture your skull or get concussion: A helmet could

prevent that. It could also protect you from over-hanging branches and

flying debris thrown up from other riders. With the technology these days

it will even keep you a bit cooler than wearing nothing at all, just because

the airflow is directed over your scalp.

Helmets come in lots of shapes and sizes. They are adjustable for fit

and most will have some sort of cranial retention device, which is a sort of

plastic binding that cradles the back of your head and stops the helmet

wobbling around when youre riding.

Most mountain bike helmets will have a peak or visor. It can help keep

the sun and rain out of your eyes and also helps channel air, but its

also there just for aesthetics. Theres nothing stopping you removing it,especially if its fixed and not adjustable.

GlovesIf you crash and go

over the bars then you

will put your

hands out.

Gloves will

stop you

scuffing

your palms

and should

mean you can

carry on riding,albeit with your

pride slightly

dented. A pull-on

glove is a good

investment because

theres no closure to

come apart or get

caught or snag. Youll

be surprised how

warm a thin glove can

be in the winter.

Short linerThis is a thin padded short designed

to be worn under a baggy short,

but you can wear it under jeans,

tracksuit bottoms, even a skirt. Its

cheaper than a proper short but

often has the same pad or insert. It

might seem odd but you need to go

commando when wearing cyclingshorts. If youre worried about

hygiene buy some chamois cream or

nappy rash cream, and always wash

the liner/short between rides.

JerseyIf you can only afford one jersey

buy a long sleeve. Its warm in

winter, offers windproofing, skin

and some UV protection and if

worn under a waterproof itll help

wick moisture. Also buy a dark

colour because it wont show the

dirt, itll co-ordinate with almost

everything and if youre a fat lad

itll make you look slimmer.

WindproofThis is a thin lightweight jacket for the tea stop or train ride home.

Its also handy to pull on when you or a mate are mending a flat tyre

on some windswept moor. You can make

this jacket slightly more water resistant

by applying a DWR (Durable Water

Repellent) coating.

Grangers sells

Superproof,

a spray on

coating for6.99, www.

zyro.co.uk.

CLOTHING LayeringIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


21/30

42 43

CLOTHING Layering

How doeslayering work?Keeping comfortable while riding is down to two things: how much heat we produce

and how much we can get rid of. The problem is were generating the most heatwhen climbing (when were travelling the slowest) and the least heat when weredescending (when we experience the most heat loss through wind chill). Its nowonder we end up sweaty and cold. The solution is to use a combination of layers

Starter packageFor most riding, most of the year, a

synthetic base layer under a jersey

should be your default option. The

base layer wicks sweat away from

the skin and dries quickly and the

jersey then transports some of the

moisture to the outside where it can

evaporate. Look for base layers with

a mesh construction, with increasedlevels of venting on the back and

under arms. Also go for a tight

fitting vest; itll feel less clammy

and its more effective if its right

next your skin.

Changeable conditionsWhen it looks like it s going to rain,

add a highly breathable windproof

or waterproof to the two basic

layers mentioned above. Ideally thejacket should have some sort of

venting, be that venting pockets,

pit zips or just a full length zip.

You may want to swap the

short sleeve jersey for a long

sleeve because the inside of

the jacket can become clammy

due to condensation build

up. Alternatively use a short

sleeve jersey and long sleeve

base layer underneath.

RainThis is the trickiest scenario

due to the difference in

temperature when its

raining and the fact that

water conducts heat 25

times faster than air, so

wind chill becomes a

factor. Sometimes it canbe freezing rain other

times its quite mild. A

good starting point is a

long sleeve base layer

under a full waterproof

jacket. Choosing a thicker

base layer or adding a

jersey layer may be

necessary if the rain is persistent or

its particularly cold. Bear in mind

that you should never be warm when

you set off youll only get warmer

and this can overload the system.

ColdIf its not wet and just dry and cold

then a long sleeve base layer, long

sleeve jersey and a windproof is a

good combo. Swapping the top two

layers for a windproof soft shell, a

sort of tight fitting fleece, is a good

plan if its freezing. Add a further

insulating layer if you are

venturing to higher ground,

like on a moorland ride

in one of the national

parks. On really cold

days a good plan is

to wear a skull cap

or buff under yourhelmet and include

a thicker one

for the caf/

repair stop.

When youve

finished your

ride remove all

the wet layers

and get into

something dry

and warm.

CLOTHING The full outfitIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


22/30

44 45

CLOTHING The full outfit

Kit: thefull montyYou need to start at the bottom as the

foundation for a comfortable day inthe saddle is a base layer and a goodliner or Lycra short

BASE LAYERS

Bases wick moisture

(sweat) away from

your skin when its

hot and add valuable

warmth when its

cold. Long, short

and capped sleeve

versions are

available, some even

have compression,

which reduces

muscle fatigue.

JERSEY

Available in long and short sleeve,

usually made from some form of

polyester, with a mesh construc-tion to boost wicking. Features

include eyewear wipe, anti-scuff

patches, zip gutter and extra

venting in the heat areas.

OVERSHOES

By pulling on a pair of mountain

bike overshoes you can turn a pair

of summer shoes into winter

warmers: cheaper than buying

winter-specific boots, washable

and versatile. They are a tight fit, so

wont always fit over a trail shoe.

SKULL CAP/BUFF

Both can be worn under a

helmet, providing extra

warmth in the

winter. Handy

if youre

bald or

losing it.

LEG/KNEE WARMERS

These useful little sleeves are like

the cut-off legs of tights that you

wear under

Lycra. They

have silicone

grippers so

stay in place

but they canbe removed

easily once

you warm up.

BAGGY SHORT

Windproof, waterproof, three

quarter, gravity, and lightweight

there are dozens of styles and types

available. Sold with or without

a liner. Look for built in waist

adjustment, hip pockets (handy for

keys etc), more than one popper

on the waist, Ripstop fabric, DWR

(durable water repellent) coating,

below the knee, womens cut.WATERPROOF SOCKS

Dont fancy the

overshoe route?

Waterproof socks

are just as good

in the winter. The

added bonus is you

dont compromise

the performance

of your footwear

and you can

use them for

other activities.

GILLET

Basically a windproof tanktop. Its the

perfect thing for changeable conditions

as it offers core warmth combined with

excellent breathability and ventilation.

Look for a specific MTB gillet, road

ones are often too tight fitting and

too low cut at the front. Also worth a

look is the Endura Convert II 74.99, a

lightweight 2.5-layer waterproof with

detachable sleeves (pictured).

LINER SHORT

It makes sense to buy several pairs of liners and

change them every day. Some baggies come with

liners included but wed buy them separately,

simply because you can pick and choose brands,

prices and styles (they are gender spe cific). You can

also control the sizing: you want the short liner to fit

tight against your body, a saggy chamois is not nice.

Trail noirWe all have uniforms andmountain bikers are no different.

Black is the default option for most riders

and if you take a stroll down the high

street its almost everyone elses too.

Black gear is flattering and also doesnt

show the dirt perfect for mountain

bikers who want their riding gear to look

good for longer. We also believe that

riders wear black because it sends

out the right message I can ride a

bit but I also want to blend in.

Top tipRenew the DWR

coating regularly even on

the top end Gore -Tex

jackets. It washes off and

can even be rubbed off

by the straps on

your pack.

WATERPROOF

There are several types of waterproof

bike jacket ranging in price from about

60 to around 250. Some of the cheaper

jackets use treated in-house fabrics

while the top-end jackets feature Gore-

Texs Paclite or Active Shell materials.

Generally, heavier weight jackets offer

more protection but do breath less. Your

choice should depend on the conditions

and the type of riding youre doing.

GLOVES

You need several pairs,

two for the summer and athicker pair for the winter.

These dont have to be

full on thermal jobbies

because wind chill is less of

a problem off-road. That

said, less mesh on the back

and fingers is a good idea.

Try before you buy too

even though gloves are size

numbered (9 = medium)

they dont always measure

up that way.

CLOTHING ProtectionIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


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Knee padsThere are hundreds out there

with varying amounts of padding

and pedalling comfort. Look for

Velcro straps top and bottom,

side protection and a cutaway

at the back to stop chafing. Also

get the right size, as they loosen

up and baggy pads can easily

get knocked to one side, where

theyre less effective.

46 47

CLOTHING Protection

Protection...Hurting yourself and damaging your bike is not good foryour body, your confidence or your finances so its worthconsidering all levels of protection when riding off-road

HelmetThe debate over whether to wear a helmet

has been raging as long as weve be

riding, which is the best part of 20 years.

You dont have to wear one but riding

off-road is unpredictable over

hanging branches, slippery roots

and even other riders can all catch

you out. If you think helmets look

daft then youre in a minority

because most mountain

bikers dont. Youre also

doing them a favour becauseits hard work carrying

someone off the hillside.

Full face helmetWith a chin guard and extra padding a full face is the ultimate in face

protection. Most gravity guys wont use anything else uplifting and riding

downhill but theyre over the top for trail use. A half way house could be the

Met Parachute (fisheroutdoor.co.uk) or Casco Viper MX (casco-viper.co.uk);

alternately, they could just be a bad compromise. Your call.

Shin/knee padsLike the above but with an

extra shin protector, which

is handy if you ride flats or

dont like the idea of cuts

and bruises being badges

of honour.

Long sleeve jerseyRiding off-road youll be

weaving through tight

undergrowth and a long

sleeve jersey will resist

brambles, nettles and

even a bit of UV. For a

good value performance

jersey try the Endura

MT500 Burner,

endura.co.uk.

EyewearDirt, dust and mud splatter is

not nice when it gets in your

eyes, especially if you wear

contacts. Eyewear is practical

and also stylish. Look for a

system with interchangeable

lenses or a photochromic lens

that darkens on exposure to

ultraviolet light.

Chamois creamInvented by our roadie cousins

it stops chaffing and soreness,

something you will experience ifyoure a first timer. Make sure you

dont wear pants under youre liner

or Lycra short.

CLOTHING ProtectionIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


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48 49

CLOTHING Protection

Helicopter tapeThe same stuff as a chainstay

protector but it comes in big sheets

you can cut and shape

or smaller patches that

you can dot on the

frame to stop cable

rub. A large piece

under the down

tube will reduce

rock damage. Take

out the creases

with a hair drier.

Bike Shield from

extrauk.co.uk

is 24.99.

...foryour bike

Bike bagOff to

sunny

climbs?

Then a

padded

bike bag

is a must.

Its handy

if you can roll it up for storage

once youve reached your

destination. Try the Ultra Bike

Bag from ultrasporteu.com.

Ride walletThis is a tidy little stuff pocket

to carry a phone,

MP3 player,

money and other

essentials. Itsgreat if youre

riding packless

or just out for

a quick thrash. Blackburn Vip

Zip Wallet 15.99 from

madison.co.uk

First aid kitIts inevitable that youll have

a mishap, its part of what

mountain biking is about, but

patching yourself up is a good

idea. Lifesystems makes a range

of mini first aid kits that you can

stuff in a pocket the Light &

Dry Micro First Aid Kit is around

11.99, lifesystems.co.uk.

MudguardThe first line of defence against

splatter is a mudguard. There are

various mounting options and

they range in price from 6 to

60. A good first time guard

is the muckynutz.com Fender

Bender for 7.98.

Lockable bike rackIts a must have if you travel with your bike and Id go

further by investing in a solid cable lock through the

wheels and even a D-Lock in the frame. Try the Thule 538

Cable Lock, 24.99 from madison.co.uk.

Ground anchor/shed anchorIf you have to leave your

bike in an outbuilding buy

a ground anchor you can

cement into the floor, and a

quality chain. Worth a look

is the Demon Ground Anchor

75 from

propa-

lok.com.

ChainstayprotectorA lot of new bikes come

with them but weve seen many

that dont, even top end bikes. Its

either a neoprene sock or a simple

strip of plastic that sticks to the

chainstay or swing arm to stop the

chain damaging the frame. Lizard

Skins chainstay protector, 8.49

from 2pure.co.uk.

SKILLS Go faster, fall off lessIN PARTNERSHIP WITH


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,

50 51

Top tips forbetter skillsEven the best riders make mistakes but theres a fineline between getting it wrong and not having theskills in the first place. The following tips outline a fewof the fundamentals that should help get you pointingin the right direction. If you need more detail andinstruction on specific techniques turn to the backofmbreach month for specific skills

PracticeThe only way youre going to get

better is to practice. This means

going out on your own or with your

mates and riding stuff over and

over. It will take time and p atience

and you may even have the odd

tumble but if youre methodical and

disciplined you will improve.

Push downIts easy to pull up when youre

clipped into SPDs, especially over

little jumps and obstacles in the trail,

but pulling the rear wheel off the

ground can unsettle the bike. You

really want to get both wheels off

the ground level and the only way

to do that is to push d own into the

pedals first, like youre springing

up. A simple way to illustrate this

point is to try and jump into the air

without bending your knees.

Target fixationIts sounds obvious but look where

you want to go. Dont look at that

stump, root, rock, tree or ditch either

side of that skinny bridge. If you find

it happening try to force your eyes

away. Aim for the gaps between

rocks, smooth bits of trail and look

through corners for the exit.

RelaxIts also really easy to tense up on a

new bit of trail and even on a section

youve ridden several times. You

need to relax. Aim for a really loose

grip on the handlebars, shake that

tension out of your neck and

shoulders (this is actually more

important when youre climbing) and

keep your elbows and knees bent.

Neutral positionWhenever people talk about skills they talk about th e attack position.

Essentially this is bum off the saddle, kn ees bent, elbows out, heels

slightly down and head up. It soun ds like you should be pumped up but

its actually the opposite a relaxed and neutral stan ce that allows you

to anticipate and react to changes in the trail easily an d quickly.

Lean the bikeLeaning the bike is a good way to

increase grip in corners. This is

especially useful if it tightens up

or you can feel the bike starting

to slide. Move you bum onto the

outside of the saddle, drop your

inside wrist and push with yourfeet trying to get the tyres to bite.

Head up and look aheadRather than looking at a point

about a foot in front of your

front wheel, scan the trail

ahead. You cant do this with

your helmet visor obscuring

your line of sight, so tilt it ou t

of the way. If its a fixed visor

remove it altogether and see if it

makes a difference.

Hard gearIts difficult to get in a good position if youre riding in too low a gear.

A lot of riders dont shift into the outer chain ring because they dont

think they can spin it, which is probably true, but a bigger gear offers

greater support and stability.

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52 53

Ride with better ridersTo bring on your skills it makes sense to ride with better riders. You

may already do that but most groups have a pecking order and if

youre one of the weaker riders you could be bringing up the rear. The

best place to be is second in line, just behind the alpha male, so you

can see all his lines and the trail ahead but not so far back that youre

getting a lung full of dust.

Take off your packYoud be surprised how a heavy

pack can affect cornering or

when riding steeper chutes and

descents. If you dont want to

remove it, make sure the pack

is snug against your body and

doesnt roll around.

Get lowLowering your COG (centre of gravity) is a big help when trying to go

fast through corners. You can hunker down with your saddle high but

the only way to really get low is to drop the saddle. A dropper post

is indispensable but failing that fit a QR collar and use it. Also dont

muck about, really exaggerate it, get you chest down and try and get

you hips lower than your hands.

Creative linesOnce youve learnt how to get your wheels off the ground you can

start choosing different lines, simply because you can jump over rootsand rocks rather than having to ride round them. Look for quicker and

drier lines off to the side of the trail, and even go the long way round if

it means a better line into a root section or drop off.

Apex the cornersA lot of riders recommend

cutting the apex in turns

sound advice because it makes

the turn as wide as possible.

However there are times when

you should take a different line,

like on an uphill hairpin. If its a

left turn stay over to the right

until about halfway round then

cut across the fall line onto the

inside (left hand) of the trail.

This reduces the steepness of

the trail and is also shorter.

Brake earlyBraking mid-turn forces the bike

to sit upright and also creates a

forward weight shift, which

unbalances the bike, suspension and

traction. Once youre in trouble you

often grab more brake, tense up

and that makes it worse. Do all you

braking before a corner, over brake

if you need too.

Trail blindnessWhen you ride a trail or section

for the first time you might suffer

from visual overload. With so much

going on its hard to see the line

and even know what to do and

the first run through is often the

worst. You should use it as a way of

gathering information.

FIX YOUR BIKE The basics

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54 55

First things firstThe chain on a new bike is covered with assembly grease and you need to

clean this off and apply a coat of chain lube before riding your bike for the

first time. The grease just attracts dirt, which can accelerate wear.

WD40 and GT85 are not chain lubes, so buy a

proper bottle of the stuff from a bike shop.

While rotating the cranks backwards

apply the lube to chain. Go round only

once. Wait a few minutes for it to soak

in and then wipe off any excess its

not doing anything on the outside of

the chain.

Mending a punctureIts essential that you know how to

fix a puncture. Make sure all the airhas been expelled from the tube.

Remove any lockrings and valve

caps from the valve. Push the beads

of the tyre to the middle of the rim:

This way the tyre can be removed by

hand but if youre struggling, insert

a tyre lever under the bead. Hook

the other end of the lever around

an adjacent spoke. Use more tyre

levers as necessary. Once youve

removed the first bead youll be able

to access the tube. Grab the tube

above the valve and pull it from the

valve hole, followed by the rest of

Mending a torn sidewall

If your tyre is in any way rippedor torn apply a tyre boot (its

like a big sticky patch). The boot

can be cut to size if its only a

small hole. The repaired tyre

should be replaced as soon as is

convenient. If you dont have a

tyre boot handy, you can bodge

one. Tube boxes, energy gel

wrappers and discarded jazz

mags have all been used to

rescue stranded cyclists in

the past but with this method

make sure the boot overlaps

generously because it can slide

about when you inflate the tube.

New bike cable problemYour new bike will have new

gear cables and they will bed

in as you shift. As you use

the gears the inner cable will

stretch, the outer will bed into

the cable end caps and they will

also seat further into the cable

stops. This causes slack in the

system and the gears to jump.

Now is the time to take up a

little bit of the slack in the inner

cable. A half (anti-clockwise)

turn on the barrel adjuster

should be enough. Check the

gears shift smoothly up and

down. Repeat as necessary.

Bedding in you padsIts not always necessary but

its always a good idea to bed in

new brake pads. This hardens

the surface of the pads, which

means theyll last longer, and

also transfers a small amount

of the pad material to the rotor,

improving friction. If your first

ride is in the wet this is essential

as grit and mud can eat through

pads in one ride.

Find a short incline, get up a

bit of speed and do about half a

dozen hard stops locking both

brakes. If you experience any

rotor rub reset the pistons as

outlined below.

Brake noiseSometimes

disc brakes

squeal in the

wet, whichis often down to the

pad compound, but now

and again the pads can become

contaminated. Most of the time

this is from over-spray from

chain lube and other lubricants.

Avoid handling the rotor your

hands will be oily. Finally, if you

have removed the pads make a

note of their orientation and put

them out of harms way.

Pad contaminationWeve tried various methods

to clean up contaminated

pads: soaking them in disc

rotor cleaner, meths, isopropyl

alcohol and even set the pads

alight to try and burn away the

contaminating oils it rarely

works. Replacement and

prevention is the best option.

If you contaminate the rotor,

it can be cleaned with a good

quality disc brake cleaner.

Changing a gear cableShift the gear to the smallest cog

and smallest chain ring. Cut off

the cable end cap and pull the

cable out of the outer cable and

shifter. Remove the end caps and

check for straightness. Check the

outer cable for rust and damage.

Replace both if necessary.

Its not necessary to lube the

outer as its Teflon lined but if its

dirty you may have to. Wind the

barrel adjuster on the shifter all

the way in, then out one full turn.

Thread the new cable into the

shifter; look inside to see the exit

hole. Feed it into the outer and

down to the derailleur; secure it

with the clamp bolt. Cut off the

excess to within three inches of

the clamp fit an end cap. Run

through the gears and increase or

decrease cable tension as above.

MEND IT

OR BIN IT?There are times when a

tube is not worth fixing. If

you have a big star shaped

blow-out, its ripped or the

puncture is too close to the

valve stem then its new

tube time.

the tube.

By lining up the valve you can

find the position of the puncture in

the tyre and the thing that caused it,

if its still there.

Fit the new tube and tyre

being careful not to nip the

inner tube. Over inflate the

tyre to 50 or even 60psi so

both beads seat correctly.

Remembering to reduce

the pressure to your desired

reading again before riding.

Basic fixesEasy fixes like this are not difficult; they just take a bit ofpractice try and master all these quick jobs and youllspend more time riding, less time walking

FIX YOUR BIKE The basics

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH


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56 57

Resetting the discbrake pistons

If you have the wheels out of yourframe and press the brake lever by

accident it can push the pads out

every so slightly, causing them to

rub on the rotor. Resetting the

pads and pistons is easy just

put something like a knife (not a

screwdriver, it could cause damage)

between the pads and wiggle them

back in. Refit the wheel and pump

the brake a couple of times so the

pads touch the rotor and retract

again. There should be no need to

realign the caliper.

Realigning your disc brakeOccasionally you might have to

re-align the caliper because youve

removed it or it wasnt set up very

well when you got the bike. Start by

resetting the pistons, then loosen the

caliper mounting bolts so you can

move the caliper by hand. Centre the

caliper over the disc if the caliper

is a two-piece it will have a line down

the middle that you can use as a

guide. Tighten the bolts and pull

the brake lever gently to move the

recessed piston/s out of their bores.

Then loosen the caliper bolts again

and pull the brake once more.

Without releasing the lever

torque the caliper bolts to the

manufacturers recommended

setting, usually around 9nm. Both

pistons should be an equal distance

from the rotor and rub is eliminated.

Bent rotorNow and again you can ding the

rotor, which causes it to tinkle on

the pads. The easy way to fix it is to

give it a slight tweak with a adjust-

able spanner, set to the thickness

of the rotor (although you can get

a proper tool for this). If the ding is

only slight you can tap the rotor with

a soft-faced mallet this is a trick

weve seen several mechanics use.

If the rotor is really badly bent or

warped just replace it.

3 chains, 1 cassette

Being metal on metal the chainand cassette on your bike will

eventually wear out. However,

if you replace the chain more

often then you can make the

cassette last longer and since

its three times the price of the

chain youll also save money.

There are no hard and fast

rules for how often you should

do this because it depends

on use, the quality of the two

components, how often youve

cleaned them and whether you

tend to bang along in one gear,

which can accelerate the wear

on a single sprocket. Most bike

shops have a tool called a chain

checker, which measures the

chain wear and should give you

a good idea on the lifespan.

wed recommend replacing

the chain after a hard winter

then maybe again later in

the summer.

Last thing at nightI cant stress this enough, keep

your bike clean. It costs hardly

anything but itll be easier to work

on and you have an opportunity to

spot any potential problems. Once

a month degrease and re-lube the

chain, remove the seatpost and

apply fresh grease and its also

worth dismantling the headset and

sorting that too. Lastly, a nice bit

of frame polish will stop mud and

gunk sticking to the bike and make

it look like a million dollars.

Puncture/snake biteSee the procedure previously

(page 54).

Broken chainCarry a chain

tool and

a power

link. No

link?

Split

the chain

as normal with your chain tool

but dont push the rivet all the

way through, just lever the chain

apart. Once youve removed the

damaged links turn the chainaround so the exposed rivet is on

the outside; itll be easier to use

the chain tool. Holding the ends

of the chain together will make it

easier to join use a bent spoke

or zip-tie. No tools? Beg, borrow

or steal or youre walking home.

Bent derailleur hangerThis

is a

sacri-

ficial

piece of

aluminium

between the rear

derailleur and

frame. If its bent

you can lever it

back by holding the

derailleur but go easy

as you can snap of the hanger

if you go too far. Replace the

hanger as soon as possible.

Stripped freewheelWeve seen riders tie the cassette

sprockets to the spokes to make

a fixed wheel. To do this you will

need several ties and it will be a

struggle riding smoothly but if

youre some distance from home

this is better than walking.

Saddle rail failureTie the shell onto the rails with

an inner tube or that gaffa tape

youre wrapped round you tubes.

Failing that wrap a semi-inflated

inner tube round the exposed

rails and hope for the best.

Seatpost snapped/clamp bolt lossIf you snap the post at the seat

clamp you can remove the stump

and refit the post. Failing that ride

home with just the bare frame.

Leaking valveOn new forks and shocks the core

in the centre of the valve can

work loose, causing an air leak.

A valve core removal tool is best

but theyre hard to come by on

the trail. In an emergency use

a thin multi-plier (Gerber,

Leatherman) or a set of needle-

nose pliers.

Mechanicals are a sad consequence of riding. The most common is a puncture,followed by a snapped chain or bent or damaged rear der

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