Looking Like a Leader

Tips to suit yourself

Stick with single-breasted suits while building your wardrobe and for interviewing. A double-breasted suit is more formal and should only be purchased after you've covered your basics.Never button the bottom button! Only button the top one or two buttons on your jacket, never the bottom one. That's just the way it is.To avoid bulging pockets, simply don't open them (most suits will come with their pockets sewn shut).

                                                          

             These sleeves are the perfect length even though they look short on outstretched arms.

One solid suit: In navy blue or dark charcoal, single breasted, and with a two or three button jacket. Three-season wool is the best fabric for an all-around suit.

One solid blazer: In navy, medium-weight wool and with a two or three-button front.

One pair of dress pants: Wool gabardine in dark charcoal.One shirt: In white with a spread collar. A spread collar does not button down and spreads wide between the points.

One tie: Medium-width tie in a solid color and subtle (if any) pattern

Basic dress wardrobe must-

haves

                                                  The jacket sleeve should reveal a half inch of your shirt cuff.

Your sleeve should rest at the break in your wrist.

Center vent or side vents? Again, this is up to you. A suit jacket with a center vent imparts a more classic, conservative look, while side vents add a bit of Italian panache.

Quick Tip: Vents will usually come sewn together by a thread. Don't forget to cut this thread before you head out.

Make sure it's comfortable If it doesn't feel comfortable, it probably doesn't look comfortable either. You want to be able to pick up your pen, shake hands, type a memo, reach for the phone and dip your dancing partner. But there's a fine line here. Remember, your suit is a fitted wardrobe piece. You don't want people to think you're wearing your big brother's suit.

Add life to your suit by always hanging it in a garment bag in your closet. Leave the jacket unbuttoned to avoid stressing the threads.

To vent or no vent

Suit: A two-piece matched suit is always the best and safest choice. Don't combine a suit jacket with pants that doesn't match

Navy, dark gray— are safe.Other color trends may come and go; avoid the extremes. Solids or very subtle weave patterns or plaids (the kind that look solid across a room) are safest. Wool blends are of good quality. They are generally the best fabrics in all seasons. Avoid acetate / rayon blends.

Conservative colors / fabric:

How to Choose the Right Tie Size Time to buy a tie, but how do you know what's the right size for you? We'll make it easy; there are a few simple rules to follow and you can't go wrong.

Appropriate tie lengthYour choices on tie length are regular and extra long. Most guys need the regular, standard length tie, which typically runs around 57 inches in length. If you are exceptionally tall (say close to six feet tall), or exceptionally large (with a neck size over 18), you may need an extra long tie.  Extra long ties typically measures around 62 inches.The easiest way to determine if you need an extra long tieis by trying on ties and seeing where they fall when tied. A tie of proper length should always hit at least to the top of the belt line. Also keep in mind that a tie that is worn a tad long is almost always acceptable, whereas a tie that is short is never a good look.

Appropriate tie widthThe idea with tie width is that the measurement at the bell (the widest portion of the tie) roughly corresponds with the width of the same season's notch lapel on suit coats and sport coats. This doesn't mean that the measurements are literally the same. What it does mean is that a wider lapel on the jacket means you'd want a wider tie, and vice versa.

Patterns change, and so should your tie wardrobeAlso, in addition to the width of ties changing, the textile designs that accompany these ties are updated. This is why it never works to hold on to ties until they "come back" in fashion. The odds of the appropriate width corresponding to the favored patterns of the day are so long that it is almost always easier to simply purchase new ties as times and style change. Besides, purchasing a new tie is the fastest, easiest, least expensive way to freshen and update a suit you already own

To have tailor or not tailorNever, Never, Never purchase a

suit off the rack without having someone look at it to see if it needs altering.

Common suit issues,

Tailoring Repair & Alteration Services Include:Hem, Shorten, neck rolls, Lengthen, Adjust Break - Inseam, Pants, Slacks & TrousersButtons - Replace or Re-attachButtonholes - Make or RepairZipper, Fly - ReplaceLapels - Repair, Make SmallerLinings in Coats & Suits - Replace or RepairShirt Sleeves - Shorten or LengthenPockets  - Replace or RepairElbow Patches - Remove, Add or Replace

Neck size Start at the Adam's apple and wrap the measuring tape around your neck, being careful not to twist or pull it too tight. There should be no space between the neck and the tape. The measured number is your actual neck size. Simply add a quarter to a half an inch to the actual neck size to get the dress shirt neck size. You'll want to be able to snugly fit two fingers between your neck and the collar of your dress shirt.

Sleeve length With your arm relaxed at side and elbow slightly bent, measure from center back of neck, over point of shoulder, and down outside of arm past elbow to wrist. Quick Tip: It's much easier to have someone help you take shirt measurements as the sleeves can be a little tricky to measure on your own.

A nice pair of dress pants will come in handy in so many situations. While suit pants can double as dress pants, pants wear out quicker than jackets, so it's better to avoid this is possible. Save your suit for its intended purpose and get a pair of dress pants for dates and dinners.Wool gabardine dress pants in dark charcoal would be an excellent choice. Charcoal is the most versatile color for dress pants. Wool gabardine is an indestructible, attractive fabric and a standard in the dress industry. In the colder months, you may prefer to wear wool flannels. Similar to wool gabardine but warmer, flannels are more substantial and have a soft-brushed feel.Quick Tip: Most dress pants can be brought in or let out 2" at the waist.Belt it out Don't forget the belt. This is crucial. A black leather belt is the most versatile, but should always match your shoes. Sierra Trading Post has a wide variety of leather dress belts.

Pleated or flat front? This is strictly personal preference. Go with the style that you feel most comfortable wearing and best "suits" your physique.

Hems The general rule here is that pleated pants should have cuffed hems and flat front pants should not. The hem should break slightly on the top of the foot and be slightly longer in back

Beyond white and blueIf you have a white and a blue shirt and are ready to branch out a bit, stick to classic stripes and checks on a white background.Keep it CleanMake sure your shirt is always crisp, clean and pressed. A rumpled shirt signals a disheveled lifestyle.Don't sweat itWear a plain white tee shirt under your dress shirt to keep from showing perspiration. Just make sure it doesn't have Led Zeppelin's 1977 tour dates (or anything else) printed on the back of it.Cuffs and CollarsYou'll want to stick with a spread collar and button cuffs for wear with a suit. Don't wear a shirt with a button-down collar

The shirt

Accessories

The Necktie

The Necktie should be worn with pride. No dress wardrobe is complete without at least one tie. You'll want a subtle tie for business, but social events present the perfect opportunity for creative expression.Go with a medium-width tie that's 3½" across at its widest point for the most versatility. If it's too skinny or too wide, you limit the types of shirts you can wear it with.Quick Tip: The tip of the tie should fall at the top of the belt.

Did you know there are six ways to tie a tie.

Tie Care

You should never place a hot iron on your tie.

Ties should be hung or folded for storage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hcm-vT2KIcs

The shoes & The Belt

Shoes should fit properly

Polished and should match your overall outfit

The belt should always match the shoes.

The cufflink

They come in various color and styles.

The watch •In vest in a good wrist watch that is conservative in style.

It should not be showy.

•It should be used what it was intended for- to keep time.

What your clothes say about you

In an interview your attire plays a supporting role.

Your conduct, your interpersonal skills and your ability to articulate intelligent and well thought out responses to questions are the most important elements.

Appropriate attire supports your image as a person who takes the interview process seriously and understands the nature of the industry in which you are trying to become employed.

Be aware that in some industries, customer contact and image presented to the customer is critical. In such industries, your attire will be judged more critically.

Your attire should be noticed as being appropriate and well-fitting, but it should not take center stage.

The Look

You are not expected to be able to afford the same clothing as a corporate CEO. Do invest in quality that will look appropriate during your first two or three years on the job. One good quality suit is sufficient for a job search if that is all your budget allows. You can vary your shirt and tie accessories.

Cost / quality:

Everything should be clean and well pressed. Carefully inspect clothes for tags, dangling threads, etc.

Details:

Tie styles come and go. Select good quality silk ties. Avoid fashion extremes, like character ties, in interviews. Notice what men in your industry wear on the job, at career fairs, at information sessions, when they meet with clients.

Ties:

Black or cordovan leather, to match your shoes

Belt:

If worn, should be well-groomed. Observe men in your industry if you are unsure what's appropriate or are considering changing your look.

Facial hair:

Wear a conservative watch. If you choose to wear other jewelry, be conservative. Removing earrings is safest. For conservative industries, don't wear earrings. Observe other men in your industry to see what is acceptable.

Jewelry:

Everything should be clean and well pressed. Suits typically have tacking stitches to hold vents — on the jacket back and on sleeves — in place before the garment is purchased. Cut them off if your retailer / tailor doesn't. And that tag stitched on the outside of your sleeve is not meant to stay there like a Tommy Hilfiger label — cut it off! Carefully inspect clothes dangling threads, etc. Details:

Details:

Long-sleeved shirts, even in summer. Choose white or light blue solid, or conservative stripes.

Shirts:

Dark socks, mid-calf length so no skin is visible when you sit down. Socks:

Socks:

Leather, lace-up or slip-on business shoes, preferably black or cordovan. Invest in a good pair; even if you don't wear them daily on the job, you'll need them for other occasions and you should expect to get lots of years out of good shoes.

Shoes:

How to Make a Suit Last Buying a new suit is a major purchase, and you want to do all you can to make it last. Here are some guidelines as to how to extend the life of your suit.

Garment FitIf a suit is worn either too tight or too loose, it's likely to wear out faster as the fabric will wear unevenly based on the unusual stress or lose folds caused by ill fit.

Also, as far as body shape is concerned, larger men usually find that their suits wear out more quickly. This is often most pronounced among men with thicker thighs, and the wear complained of is most often visible signs of stress and strain on the fabric in the crotch area - such as thin spots in the fabric or visible pilling.

Dry CleaningDry cleaning needs to be performed very infrequently, as this is quite hard on the fabric of the suit. You should expect to dry clean no more often than once per season, unless the suit is stained or smells.

Some Suits Last Longer Than OthersFinally, the garment itself definitely can play a role in this. A suit composed of exceptionally lightweight wools is typically less hearty than are the heavier weights. Many of the crepe wools, the Super 120s and the even higher graded wools (Super 150s, etc.) are likewise not as rugged wearing as are the older standard 80s and 90s wools, gabardines and the like.

Unfortunately, as far as the suit make and material are concerned, there really aren't any hard and fast rules or conditions that can let you know ahead of time how a particular make, model, or style is likely to wear - let alone how it is likely to wear on you.

Choosing Shoes for a Navy Suit Who knows where it got started, but somewhere along the line the rule that you shouldn't wear black shoes with navy clothing began being accepted as fact. And it simply is not true. On the contrary, black shoes are the most common and usually the best footwear to accompany navy clothing - especially in a professional environment.

Some other shoe options for navy clothingIt is also worth noting that both cordovan and brown shoes will work with navy clothing. Cordovan shoes are the only other option for more conservative, professional environments. And brown shoes, once commonplace with navy, are now considered a fashion choice, which means that these shoes should be saved for social and more casual occasions, and probably avoided entirely in a more conservative business environment or for a job interview.

So now that you've got the scoop, go choose shoes for your navy suit with confidence.