MEXICO AZTECS, MAYA & THE DAYS OF THE DEAD

OCTOBER 25 – NOVEMBER 11, 2019 TOUR LEADER: CHLOË SAYER

Overview Discover the history and culture of Mexico, from ancient civilisations to colourful folk traditions and the birth of a modern culture, epitomised by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. This 18-day tour takes us through the multiple layers of the metropolis of Mexico City, south through ancient Aztec sites to the region of Oaxaca and then across to the Yucatan Peninsula, home to a range of stunning Maya pyramids. Our sightseeing program balances majestic ancient sites, some dating to the 4th millennium BC, with an exploration of the profound impact of Spanish colonisation from the 16th century onwards and the vibrant culture of the 20th and 21st centuries, when artists such as Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo gained international reputations. Popular and folk cultures are key to understanding Mexico, and there will be the opportunity to visit small villages to observe local people at work on traditional arts and crafts such as weaving, potting and carving. Our stay in Oaxaca is timed to coincide with the Days of the Dead celebrations: when elaborate and colourful rituals celebrate the brief return of departed souls to their loved ones; a beguiling mix of Catholicism and ancient ritual. On our journey we sample the distinctive local cuisine of the country that brought us tomatoes, chilli, chocolate, corn and the avocado, plus have the chance to witness some of Mexico’s natural beauty; the imposing Popocatépetl volcano outside Puebla, the jungle of Chiapas, and the superb flamingos on the lakes of the Celestún Biosphere on the Yucatán Peninsula.

Your tour leader Chloë Sayer has conducted extensive research and fieldwork on traditional crafts and textiles throughout Mexico and Guatemala. Chloë lived and worked in Mexico for many years and is a fluent Spanish speaker. The author of several books including Crafts of Mexico, Of Gods and Men: Memo and the Mexican Indian and Mexican Costume, she has lectured widely on various aspects of Mexican culture and contributed to numerous ethnographic craft collections, exhibitions,

events and television documentaries, including curating exhibitions at the British Museum and the Royal Ontario Museum. Feedback from Chloë’s previous tours of Mexico:

“Chloë was outstanding and made a huge difference to our experience. The whole trip surpassed my highest expectations.”

“Chloë’s lectures were the icing on the cake for me. Very

informative and an excellent delivery.” “I had no idea that Mexico was so interesting, friendly and

diverse. Chloë did a remarkable job in bringing that to life for us.”

MEXICO AZTECS, MAYA & THE DAYS OF THE DEAD

Tour dates: October 25 – November 11, 2019

Tour leader: Chloë Sayer

Tour Price: $8,840 per person, twin share

Single Supplement: $1,950 for sole use of double room

Booking deposit: $500 per person

Recommended airline: Qantas, American Airlines or United Airlines

Maximum places: 20

Itinerary: Mexico City (4 nights), Puebla (1 night), Oaxaca (4 nights), San Cristobal (2 nights), Palenque (2 nights), Campeche (1 night), Merida (3 nights)

Date published: February 4, 2019

Enquiries and bookings

For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Jemma York at ADFAS Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email jemma@academytravel.com.au

Tour Highlights

PYRAMIDS AT TEOTIHUACAN The vast and mysterious pyramids of Teotihuacán date from the first century AD and were the first urban centre in pre-Hispanic Mexico. Despite the splendour of the site, little is known about the occupants as they left no records; even the name comes from the Aztecs, 700 years after the site was abandoned.

FRIDA AND DIEGO Discover the contrasts of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera both in art and life. Diego’s murals were monumental and designed for public consumption, with historical or political themes, whereas Frida, more or less house bound due to ailing health, produced small introspective works which come to life on a visit to her house in Coyoacán.

DAYS OF THE DEAD Flower-festooned Oaxaca during the Days of the Dead celebrations offers us a window into the Mexican soul. Families construct altars to celebrate the life of departed loved ones and decorate them with photos, flowers, sweets and candles. At night they keep a vigil at the local cemetery but it is not a sombre affair, more a cause for celebration.

FOLK CULTURE Visiting local villages gives us the opportunity to discover crafts that have remained unchanged for centuries, as well as to meet local people, see inside their houses and discuss their way of life. We discover the pottery skills of the Aguilar sisters and see a demonstration of traditional backstrap weaving at the house of Crispina Navarro Gomez, plus a visit to a wood carving village outside Oaxaca.

MAYAN RUINS In the dense jungle of Chiapas we take a boat trip to the remote pyramids of Yaxchilán to see the outstanding stone sculptures, followed by the colourful frescoes at Bonampak. To this we add the beautiful rainforest site of Palenque and the UNESCO world heritage site of Chichén Itzá on the Yucatán peninsula with its well-preserved ball court.

Detailed itinerary Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

Friday October 25 ARRIVAL IN MEXICO CITY

Flights arrive into Mexico City in the late afternoon and early evening. After time to check in and freshen up, we meet for a light dinner in our hotel. We have an early night in anticipation of a full day’s activities tomorrow. Overnight Mexico City. (D)

Saturday October 26 Around the zÓcalo

After a short introductory talk in our hotel we make our way to the zócalo, the grand central square which is the historic heart of Mexico City, to see the famous Diego Rivera murals in the National Palace. We also visit the vast colonial Cathedral nearby as well as the extant remains of the Aztec City which once stood on the spot. We enjoy our welcome lunch on a terrace overlooking the zócalo. In the afternoon we head to the Anthropological Museum in the Chapultepec area. Here we can see archaeological artifacts from Oaxaca and the Maya area as well as presentations on the ethnography of living cultures in Mexico. After our visit we remain in the area and enjoy an aperitif at the Hotel Camino Real, an eye-catching modernist building designed by architect Ricardo Legorreta in 1965. Overnight Mexico City. (B, L)

Sunday October 27 Coyoacán

This morning we transfer by coach to the beautiful leafy suburb of Coyoacán where we visit ‘the Blue House’, the Museum of Frida Kahlo and close by the house of her friend and lover, Leon Trotsky. Coyoacán has a colourful history and we have time to stroll along the lovely streets lined with colonial mansions, past the studios formerly occupied by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo and to have lunch here (not included), before returning to our hotel to freshen up for an evening performance of the Ballet Folklorico at Bellas Artes. Overnight Mexico City. (B)

Monday October 28 TEOTIHUACAN

Our full day excursion takes us to Teotihuacán, an extensive archaeological site northeast of Mexico City. Teotihuacán was one of the most powerful centres in Mesoamerica and its

Above: The vast Zócalo is the main square in Mexico City and was the former ceremonial centre of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan Below: Tlaltecuhtli, the monstrous earth goddess of the Aztecs in the museum of the Templo Mayor; Frida Kahlo’s “Blue House” in the picturesque suburb of Coyoacán

Tour start & finish time

The tour begins at 7.30pm in Mexico City on 25 October, at the Hampton Inn hotel restaurant Garabatos.

The tour ends at 9.00am in Merida on 11 November, after breakfast at the Hacienda Misne hotel.

Above: the exuberant tiled exterior of the church of San Francisco Acatepec; Mount Popocatépetl volcano smokes quietly behind the town of Puebla Below: Ofrenda for the souls of the departed in a home in Oaxaca state

importance is reflected in the vast monuments on the site, including the Temple of Quetzalcoatl and the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon, laid out according to geometric and symbolic principles. After our visit we return to Mexico City via the historic shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe on Tepeyac Hill. The shrine contains a celebrated Roman Catholic icon of the Virgin Mary, one of the most popular religious and cultural images in Mexico. Returning to the hotel we meet for a lecture on the Aztecs. Overnight Mexico City. (B)

Tuesday October 29 San Francisco acatepec & TONANTZINTLA

We depart Mexico City this morning and make our way through a mountain pass to the picturesque colonial city of Puebla. Weather permitting, we should enjoy views of the majestic volcano of Popocatépetl. On the way we will stop to see the extraordinary tiled churches of San Francisco Acatepec and Santa María Tonantzintla, superb examples of both local craftsmanship and the region’s blended Spanish-indigenous influence. Arriving in Puebla we visit the Talavera de la Luz to see tin glazed ceramics being made and have time for a leisurely orientation stroll around its famous square before meeting for dinner in a nearby restaurant to sample the famous local mole. Overnight Puebla. (B, D)

Wednesday October 30 Puebla

After a talk in our hotel, the morning is free to visit the many interesting museums in the centre of Puebla, including the atmospheric Museo José Luis Bello y González, displaying a unique collection of ceramics, the Amparo museum or the craft market. After lunch we depart Puebla and make our way through more dramatic mountain scenery to Oaxaca City, arriving in the late afternoon. There is time to relax before we meet in the evening for a drink and dinner in the hotel courtyard. Overnight Oaxaca. (B, D)

Thursday October 31 MITLA

We depart Oaxaca early and make our way to the archaeological site at Mitla where we admire the elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork that covers tombs, panels, friezes and even entire walls. Small, finely cut stone pieces, fitted together without the use of mortar, form an amazing variety of geometric configurations. There is a good market here for souvenir shopping at a reasonable price. On return to Oaxaca city we enjoy an afternoon walking tour taking in the church of Santo Domingo and the adjoining cultural centre before our night time visit to the cemetery of Santa Maria Atzompa to witness the candle-lit vigil of the Day of the Dead. Overnight Oaxaca. (B)

Friday November 1 Ocotlán & CRAFT VILLAGES

Friday is market day in the town of Ocotlán de Morelos, about an hour’s drive from Oaxaca. At the entrance to the town we

visit the Aguilar sisters to learn about their famous pottery skills. We admire the art in the Rodolfo Morales museum and enter the nearby church before visiting the bustling market and having lunch here at Frida’s stall, much like the locals would. After refreshment we head off to the village of Santo Tomás Jalieza to meet celebrated weaver Crispina Navarro Gómez and her family, who will demonstrate traditional back-strap weaving. Time permitting, we also stop off in the wood-carving village of San Martín Tilcajete. Overnight Oaxaca. (B, L)

Saturday November 2 Teotitlan del valle

Our excursion today is to Teotitlóan del Valle, a Zapotec town famous for its fine woven textiles. We drive via Santa Maria del Tule to see the ancient ahuehuete tree that stands outside the church. This remarkable cypress, which has a circumference of over 160 feet at its base, is said to be between 2000 and 3000 years old. After a demonstration of the dyeing and weaving with natural dyes from the weavers, we enjoy traditional Oaxacan fare at a charming local restaurant and then visit the cemetery to see the beautiful flower displays left over from the Days of the Dead. Overnight Oaxaca (B, L)

Sunday November 3 Monte alban

This morning we visit the spectacular hilltop archaeological site at Monte Albán. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this was one of the earliest cities in Mesoamerica. Founded around 500 BC, Monte Albán was the administrative capital of the Zapotecs and was later re-used by the Mixtecs. After our visit we head to the airport for the flight to Tuxtla Gutierrez for the next leg of our journey in the South. To avoid torturous road travel our coach will have gone ahead the day before with our main luggage. On arrival in the hilltop town of San Cristόbal de las Casas we enjoy dinner in a nearby restaurant. Overnight San Cristóbal. (B, D)

Monday November 4 chiapas

To start the day, we take a short drive to the Tzotzil-Maya villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán, with their unique cultural traditions. In the afternoon we explore San Cristóbal, one of Mexico’s best-preserved Spanish colonial towns. After an orientation walk there is free time to enjoy the historic town centre with its exceptional architecture, fine church and to shop for amber and other silver goods among women in their distinctive traditional dress. Overnight San Cristóbal (B)

Tuesday November 5 Villahermosa

We depart San Cristóbal this morning and make our way to Palenque via Villahermosa and the Olmec site of La Venta Museum Park. This park was created in 1958 when oil exploration threatened an important ancient site in Tabasco. The most significant finds at la Venta were moved to this site for

Above: Preparing wool for traditional back-strap weaving Below: The hilltop site of Monte Albán, an ancient centre of Zapotec and Mixtec Culture; an Olmec stone head at the La Venta Museum Park

conservation. On arrival in Palenque we enjoy an illustrated talk before dinner in our hotel. Overnight Palenque (B, D)

Wednesday November 6 BONAMPAK & YAXCHILAN

We have an early start for our full day tour of the ancient Maya sites of Bonampak and Yaxchilán. Bonampak is renowned for its brilliant coloured murals, painted around 800AD; Yaxchilán for its extraordinarily detailed stone sculptures. Our journey will take us into the rainforest, accompanied by the sound of howler monkeys and tropical birds, and includes a boat trip along the Usumacinta River to the remote site with lunch by the river. We return to Palenque in the late afternoon. Overnight Palenque. (B, L)

Thursday November 7 palenque

This morning we make our way to Palenque itself, one of the loveliest of all the cities built by the ancient Maya, set in dense rainforest. We visit the site and the excellent museum then make our way to the coastal town of Campeche, founded in 1540 by the Spanish as they began their conquest of the Yucatán Peninsula. Dinner tonight is in a popular local restaurant. Overnight Campeche. (B, D)

Friday November 8 UXMAL

We take a short city tour of the elegant historical centre of Campeche this morning before heading on to Uxmal, a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. Our tour of this celebrated Maya ceremonial centre includes the massive Pyramid of the Magicians, the tallest structure on the site. We continue to Mérida in the later afternoon. Dinner tonight is in our hotel, the beautiful converted Hacienda Misne. Overnight Mérida. (B, D)

Saturday November 9 Celestún

Today we drive through small villages to the unique coastal wetlands of Celestún. Here, as we tour this special biosphere reserve by boat, we can see magnificent flocks of pink flamingos in their natural habitat. After lunch on the seafront we return to the centre of Mérida for a stroll around the square before heading back to the hotel. In the evening, we have a lecture on Maya culture on the Yucatán Peninsula. Overnight Mérida. (B)

Sunday November 10 Chichén Itzá

Today’s full day tour is to the exceptional site at Chichén Itzá, a UNESCO world heritage site. Here we will visit the magnificent El Castillo pyramid and one of the largest and best-preserved ball courts in the Mayan world. We return to the hotel via the colonial town of Izamal. Almost entirely painted in yellow, this historic town is famous for its Franciscan convent that was built

Above: the superb frescoes at Bonampak in Chiapas; the spectacular Pyramid of the Magician at Uxmal Below: flamingos at the Celestún Biosphere on the Yucatán Penisula

in the 16th century over the top of one of the Mayan pyramids. Tonight, we head back to the centre of Mérida for our farewell meal in a local restaurant that specializes in regional cuisine. Overnight Mérida. (B, D)

Monday November 11 Departure

Our tour ends today after breakfast. There is a coach transfer to the airport for those flying back to Mexico City to meet outgoing international flights. Those wanting to extend their stay in Cancún or elsewhere should talk to the tour consultant about transfer options. (B)

Hotels Hotels have been selected principally for their character and central location and are 3 to 4*. Most are tried and tested from previous tours.

• Mexico City, Hotel Hampton Inn (4 nights) hamptoninn3.hilton.com/en/index.html

• Puebla, Hotel NH Puebla (1 night)

www.nh-hotels.com/hotel/nh-puebla-centro-historico • Oaxaca, Hotel Casa de Sierra Azul (4 nights)

www.hotelcasadesierrazul.com/EN/ • San Cristobal, Hotel Casa Mexicana (2 nights)

www.hotelcasamexicana.com/ • Palenque, Hotel Chan Kah (2 nights)

www.chan-kah.com.mx/default-en.html • Campeche, Hotel Castelmar (1 night)

www.castelmarhotel.com • Merida, Hotel Hacienda Misne (3 nights)

www.haciendamisne.com.mx

Above:the iconic El Castillo pyramid at Chichén Itza Below: the colourful colonial town of Izamal; endless varieties of dried and fresh chillis are a staple in any Mexican market

Fitness Requirements of THIS tour

GRADE TWO

It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness required to participate on our tours, we have given them a star grading. ADFAS Travel’s tours tend to feature extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.

Participation criteria for this tour

This Grade Two tour is designed for people who lead active lives and can comfortably participate in up to five hours of physical activity per day on most days, including longer walking tours, challenging archaeological sites, climbing stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, and a more demanding tour schedule with one night stops or several internal flights. You should be able to: keep up with the group at all times walk for 4-5 kilometres at a moderate pace with only

short breaks stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and

museums tolerate uncomfortable climatic conditions such as cold,

humidity and heat, as well as altitude (Mexico City) walk up and down slopes negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites,

which are often uneven and unstable get on and off a large coach with steep stairs, or small

boats unassisted, possibly with luggage move your luggage a short distance if required

A note for older travellers

If you are more than 80 years old, or have restricted mobility, it is highly likely that you will find this itinerary challenging. You will have to miss several activities and will not get the full value of the tour. Your booking will not be accepted until after you have contacted ADFAS Travel to discuss your situation and the exact physical requirements of this tour. While we will do our best to reasonably accommodate the physical needs of all group members, we reserve the right to refuse bookings if we feel that the requirements of the tour are too demanding for you and/or if local conditions mean we cannot reasonably accommodate your condition.

Tour Price The tour price is $8,840 per person, twin share (land content only). The supplement for a single room is $1,950 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is required to secure a place on the tour.

Tour Inclusions Included in the tour price • 17 nights’ accommodation in carefully selected hotels • All breakfasts, plus lunches and dinners as noted • Extensive background notes and lectures on tour • Services of an experienced tour leader, plus local

accompanying tour manager throughout • Local site guides where appropriate • All entrance fees to sites mentioned in the itinerary • Porterage of one piece of luggage at all hotels • Tips for all included services

Not included • Airfares from Australia to Mexico City and return from Merida • Travel insurance • Meals not mentioned in the itinerary • Expenses of a personal nature

Air travel OPTIONS The tour price quoted is for land content only. For this tour we recommend Qantas or United Airlines who each offer flights to and from Mexico City, with connections through the USA. A domestic flight with Aeromexico is also needed from Merida back to Mexico City. Please contact us for further information on competitive economy, business and first-class airfares. Transfers between airport and hotel are included for all passengers booking their flights through ADFAS Travel. These may be group or individual transfers.

Enquiries & bookings For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Jemma York at ADFAS Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email jemma@academytravel.com.au

Weather on Tour Mexico is a big country and the climate and temperature will vary more according to region and altitude than season. Up to 700m altitude (e.g. Chichen Itzá and Palenque) it remains quite warm, up to around 30 degrees in winter. 700m-1800m (e.g. Oaxaca) it's a lot milder, more like a European spring. Above 1800m (e.g. San Cristobal de las Casas, Puebla and Mexico City) it can get quite chilly and you'll need a warm sweater in the evenings.