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12 NOTICE BOARDNews for military modellers.
14 WEBSITE PAGEWhats going on at militarymodelling.comMilitary Modelling magazines website?
56 THE MAFVA COLUMNJohn Ham describes MAFVA visits to the REME Museum Reserve Collection and the Bordon & Royal Logistics Corps Open Day.
62 ON PARADERecommended books for military modellers.
68 ATTEN-SHUN!Products review section.
80 NEXT ISSUEWhats coming up in your favourite modelling magazine!
16 PUSH-ME PULL-YOU!Mark Bannerman builds the double- fronted Panzerkampfwagen ADGZ in 1:35 scale.
26 PAINTING A FACTORYMichael McLaughlin relates an unusual tale about the creation of a box art.
32 BEUTEPANZER CHAR B1 bisWouter Vrints explains the weathering techniques used on his Panzerkampfwagen B2 740(f) model.
42 TANKFEST 2014Robin Buckland visits the Tank Museum at Bovington in Dorset to attend this annual military vehicle feast.
48 OLD WOODEN CARTSEmmanuel Nouaillier provides more advice on how to detail small scale streets and structures.
54 DUXFORDMILITARY VEHICLE SHOWRobin Buckland presents highlights from this years event plus the MAFVA Nationals.
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2703 120mm British Commando WWII 22.60 2704 1/35th USAAF WWII Service Area Acc 24.85 2705 1/35th Point Blank Panzernest 18.85 2706 1/32nd USAAF WWII Refueling Unit 21.85 2707 1/35th Grille - Ammo - Stowage - Crew - DML Kit 24.85 2708 1/35th Panzerwerk Milling Machine 17.30 2709 1/32nd Flight Deck 'Mule' Hot Air Tractor 27.90 2710 1/35th SIG 33 Ammo/Cases 11.30 2711 120mm Greek Slinger 20.35 2712 1/35th Marder III Crew - Ammo - Stowage 24.85 2714 1/32nd USN Carrier Fire Tractor 30.15 2715 1/35th Recon. Iraq/Afghanistan 12.80 2716 1/35th Gantry Crane 32.40 2717 1/35th Cobblestone Street/Road Curve Fits 12.80 2718 1/35th Middle Eastern War Loot 16.55 2719 1/35th T-72 Engine Compartment ( Tamiya ) 30.15 2720 1/35th Point Blank T34/85 Turret ( Dragon ) 18.85 2721 1/32nd USN Carrier Electric Power Cart 24.10 2722 1/35th M1151 Stowage/Crew 22.60 2723 1/35th IDF M51 Sherman Crew - Ammo - Stowage 24.85 2724 1/32nd Utility and Nitrogen Carts USN Carrie 24.85 2725 1/35th SDKFZ 7/2 3.7 Flak Crew - Ammo - Stowage 24.85 2726 1/35th German Light Mortar Crew 12.80 2727 1/35th Point Blank T 72 Turret ( Tamiya ) 20.35 2728 1/35th M24 Chaffee Engine & Compartment 24.85 2730 1/35th Point Blank Panther G ( CyberHobby ) 24.85 2731 1/35th M113 Full Interior (Academy) 27.90 2732 1/35th M24 Chaffee Stowage Ammo Crew 24.85 2733 120mm British Infantry Zulu War 20.35 2734 1/35th M21 Motar Stowage Ammo Crew 22.60 2735 1/35th M24 Chaffee Interior ( Bronco ) 26.40 2736 1/35th 15cm Nebelwerfer Ammo - Crew - Gear 22.60 2737 1/32nd Airbase / Carrier Used Oil Carts 22.60 2738 1/35th Cable Reels 24.85 2739 1/35th Duster Crew Ammo Stowage 24.85 2740 1/35th Duster Interior (Drivers) 22.60 2741 1/35th T55 Turret Point Blank 21.85 2742 1/35th Luftwaffe Fuel Drum Trailer 24.10 2743 1/32nd A-7D Corsair II Radar Avionics (Trumpeter) 20.35 2744 120mm Chopper Crew Vietnam 18.85 2745 1/32nd A-7D Corsair II Full New Cockpit (Trumpeter) 21.85 2746 1/35th Mid-East Pick-Up Stowage-Crew 24.10 2747 1/35th German 75 mm PaK Crew-Ammo-Gear 24.10 2748 1/35th SWS Ammo - Crew - Stowage 24.85 2749 120mm Recon Vietnam 18.85 2750 1/32nd Floodlight - Generator Cart Airbase 26.40 2751 1/32nd Generator - Gas Turbine EPU Airbase 27.90 2752 1/35th Fallschirmjager at Casino Vignette 26.40 2753 1/35th Shermans WWII Crew-Ammo-Stowage 24.10 2754 1/35th Panzerwerk Heavy Factory Lathe with Figure 45.25 2755 120mm British Para WWII 18.85 2756 1/32nd Airbase Compressor (Markings not Included) 21.85 2757 1/35th Burn! WWII Vignette 24.10 2758 1/32nd Bomb Trailer with Snakeeyes 24.85 2759 120mm German WWII Tank Gunner 22.60 2760 1/35th 105 Howitzer Vietnam Ammo-Crew-Gear 24.10 2761 1/35 Point Blank Char B1 Bis (Tamiya) 18.85 2762 120mm German Officer WWII Whermacht 18.85 2763 1/35th 105mm Howitzer M101 WWII Crew-Ammo 29.40 2764 1/35th Fire Base Charly Base, Ammo, Gear, Figures 44.10 2765 120mm British Chindit Burma WWII 20.35 2766 1/35th Nebelwerfer Base Ammo Crew Gear 37.70 2767 1/35th Battle for Berlin Panther Dug-In 74.70 2768 1/35th 75mm Pak Gear-Ammo-Crew-Base 52.80 2769 1/35th 88mm Flak/Pak Crew-Ammo-Gear 26.40 2770 1/35th KVI Ehkranami Point Blank 18.85 2771 120mm Jungle Recon Vietnam 18.85 2772 1/35th M109 A2's Gear Ammo Crew 24.85 2773 1/35th German T34 Turret Bunker-Figures- 49.00 2774 1/32nd Luftwaffe Repair Section 24.85 2775 120mm British Red Devil Sniper 20.35 2776 1/35th Camping Grounds Germany WWII Tankers 24.85 2777 120mm Navy Seal Vietnam 20.35 2778 1/35th Panzerwerk Repair Shop 26.40 2779 1/35th Camping Ground US WWII Infantry 24.85 2780 1/35th Homeland Defense Vignette 26.40 2781 1/35th US WWII Field Workshop 24.85 2782 1/35th Ruined Fachwerhaus 24.85 2783 1/35th Diorama Base 13x13 CM 27.90 2784 1/35th US Iraq Surge 13.55 2785 1/16th German 37mm Flak 75.45 2786 1/35th Cleaning House Iraq Vignette 26.40 2787 1/35th Russian Tank Riders WWII 13.55 2788 1/16th Luftwaffe General WWII 24.852789 1/16th RAF Fighter Pilot Battle of Berlin 24.85 2790 1/35th Covert Ops. Afghanistan 13.55 2791 1/16th German Infantry Officer WWII 24.85
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Notice BoardThe Editor welcomes copy for publication in Notice Board. This service is free of charge. Obvious for sale notices, either private or trade will not be accepted. These restrictions do not apply to bona-fide museums and collections or traders wishing to pass on information about the availability of products to readers. Would secretaries of clubs and societies please allow a three-month lead time for time-sensitive notices. Please note: under no circumstances will copy be accepted by telephone. All notices must be in writing, by letter or e-mail. Please send all copy for Notice Board direct to the Editor at the address listed under Editorial on the contents page.
Information and diary dates
12 Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 2014
Ellies MiniaturesThis is a new company set up by 12-year-old Ellie Burton; it started out as a school project about setting up a business and it snowballed from there. Ellie has a very keen interest in history and uniforms so did not want to do the usual selling buns and T-shirts!
Ellie had a good grounding when it came to choosing figures as her father Ian previously ran I & E Miniatures. Like Ian, she likes the 2nd Empire uniforms and felt that there would be a market for that period and so began Ellies Miniatures. She then set about getting sculptors and painters to help kick-start the business. Ellie has commissioned Carl Reid, the Late Pete Morton and Adam McMasters to do masters for the company and painters from the White Rose Club in
everything was in place, the company was launched.
Its a bit of a family affair now as everyone has a part to play; her brother helped design the website and the family all get involved with the packing and posting.
You can see Ellie at her first show, Euro Militaire, on September 20th & 21st. Ellie has lots of new projects in the pipeline and we confidently predict a bright future for this young lady!
For more information visitwww.elliesminiatures.com
The Southern Model ShowFollowing on from last years success, the Southern Model Show is returning to Headcorn Aerodrome in Kent on the 13th & 14th September 2014. A great family show, with something for everyone; Aeroplanes, Helicopters, Boats, Cars and Tanks. If it is called a model, then it should be at the show!
As well as seeing the models in action you will be able to get up close and chat with the owners and there will be many specialist traders who will have all of the latest models and accessories on sale. Beginners will have the chance to take charge of a radio-controlled model for the first time.
The show is being run in association with the Maidstone Model Flying Club and in partnership with our sister RCM&E magazine. In addition to a full days flying that starts at 10am each day, a full range of other activities and a showground packed with traders
makes this a must go event for anyone with an interest in this fascinating hobby whether a professional or a beginner.
Gates open at 10am on both days and tickets are priced at 12 per adult, 10 per child, or 35 for a family ticket (2+2). For further information visit www.headcornevents.co.uk or call 0845 652 62 63.
Ajax 34 Model ContestIPMS Toronto, Peel Scale Modelers and IPMS DeHavilland present the 34th annual Ajax Scale Model Contest at J. Clarke Richardson Collegiate, 1355 Harwood Ave. N., Ajax, Ontario, Canada on Saturday, 25th October, 2014 from 10am to 4pm. Admission: $5, Model entry $2 per model to a maximum of $15 (no limit on models). Telephone Bernie Hengst on 705-878-1740 or email [email protected]
Welsh MAFVA meetingThe South Wales branch of The MAFVA will be holding an open meeting with a large display of members work at St Johns Church Hall, Rachel Close, Danescourt, Cardiff CF5 2SH between 2.30pm to 5pm on Sunday 5th October 2014. There is plenty of free parking available and the branch looks forward to welcoming you. If any other MAFVA members would like display their own models at the meeting, please contact the branch secretary, Paul Gandy on 01443 208447 or email [email protected]
Leeds to do the box art. She then looked around for a caster and found Steve Crisp from Darkstar Miniatures and so once
The BFFS at Euro Militaire
At this years Euro Militaire (20th & 21st September), the British Flat Figure Society (BFFS) will present a larger display than usual on the East Balcony in order to promote the art of the flat figure in all its forms. The BFFS was founded nearly 30-years ago in order to help and encourage the flat figure painter and collector, not only in how to paint them, but also how and where to purchase these little gems. With the coming of the Internet it has all become much
easier, but buying figures can still be problematic as most of the producers are in Germany and are enthusiasts not businessmen. Recently, the society has begun producing their own figures, for members and non-members
alike, and have found these to be very popular. While the society is based in Britain, they are a truly international group, with a worldwide membership, including Europe, The Americas, Russia, Australia, Japan and China.
Over the weekend, the society will be displaying traditional 30mm figures from the 1800s right up to figures produced today in many sizes. You will see single, groups and dioramas as well as tanks, aircraft and motorbikes. Several members will also be giving painting demonstrations and
there will always be experienced members around to answer any of your questions. If anyone wants to have a go at painting a flat there will be some figures for you to sit and paint with the help of BFFS members. Also, if you have any painted flats please bring them along to show on their table whether you are a member or not, beginners and experts are always welcome.
So, if you would like to know more about the wonderful world of flats be sure to come up to the balcony and say hello to the BFFS.http://www.intflatfigures.org/
A French Line Infantry NCO 1870, one of the new figures from Ellies Miniatures.
14 Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 2014
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If you would like to submit an item for the website email Robin Buckland at [email protected] or come and join our online presence at militarymodelling.com the world of military modelling at your fingertips
News from the Military Modelling website and forum
magnificent end result and a pleasure to have been able to watch how it came together over a number of months. We have also seen Paul Scott (Scottie) complete his build of the Mirror Models Diamond T Wrecker essentially straight from the box, while US based member Adam Kuller is building
In the middle of summer there are always extra things that draw on our time. With the World Cup, Wimbledon and most recently the Commonwealth Games likely to distract us, along with keeping control of a garden, family holidays and the round of summer shows at Duxford, War & Peace and the like it is a wonder that we find any time for modelling at all! A recent spell of hot weather
has also made it difficult for many to settle down to any kit building and painting in particular.
Despite all of that most of us have found time to carry on and we have been seeing that reflected in our website forum. Long time site member Carl Startin put the finishing touches to a long-running blog of his and finish one of the Life Miniatures busts of a German MG43 tripod carrier at Kharkov. A
WebsiteGetting us out from behind the computer screen, the militarymodelling.com club table at the MAFVA Nationals at Duxford back in June (from left: Gary Radford, Paul Scott, Craig Hiscock, Nigel Norfolk and our editor, Kelvin Barber).
LEFT: One of the distractions from modelling in the Summer, the War & Peace Revival.
BELOW: The end result of a long-running blog, member Carl Startin painted this bust from Life Miniatures.
15www.militarymodelling.com
his along with adding lots of extra detailing and refinements over a number of months.
For many of us, the regular Group builds provide some drive, and following on from a D-Day themed build we have moved on to another WW1 topic for the third quarter of the year, WW1 period figures (any scale). We already have some interesting models coming along, perhaps MM
youd like to join in and have a go. Among our occasional series on real weapons we have added a set of reference photos of the Lee Enfield Mk.V Jungle Carbine and will be following up our feature on the US Marines Museum with another on a lesser-known small museum in Kvamm, Norway. Coupled with regular news and reviews there is always plenty to find on our website.
Website
ABOVE: In close-up the detail of Carls painting of this 1:10 scale bust is quite stunning.
Ken Holland built this 1:35 scale Ambulance Jeep as part of our D-Day group project.
ABOVE: From our D-Day Group build this year, member Simon Titterington added more detailing to his build of this Daimler armoured car.
LEFT: US-based Adam Kuller is still working on his Mirror Models Diamond T.
BELOW: Paul Scott successfully completed his build of the Mirror Models Diamond T kit.
ABOVE: Two photos from our recent reference feature on the Lee Enfield Mk.V Jungle Carbine.
ABOVE: Reader Simon Ashford sent in these photos with his report of a small museum in Kvamm, Norway.
In 1934, Austrian manufacturer Steyr merged with Austro-Daimler-Puch to form Steyr-Daimler-Puch and were primarily producers of high-end civilian cars. At the outbreak of war, Austria had been annexed the year before by Germany and formed part of the Third Reich. Steyr-Daimler-Puch went into full military vehicle production for the war effort including the production of the Steyr Raupenschlepper Ost (RSO). One of the war machines which had already been conceived and produced 8-years earlier by Austro-Daimler Puchwerke AG was the ADGZ (M35 mittlerer Panzerwagen), a heavy 12-wheeled armoured police and reconnaissance car designed for the Austrian army. Several of the ADGZ
vehicles had been pushed into German military and policing service before the outbreak of war.
At the outbreak of war, several ADGZ vehicles formed part of the attack on Poland in September 1939. The PzKpfw Steyr ADGZ armoured cars were assigned primarily to Police detachments and SS units. By 1941, the SS ordered an additional 25 ADGZ vehicles and these were pushed into service on the Eastern Front and in the Balkans with the 7th SS Freiwillingen-Gebirgs-Division Prinz Eugen for anti-partisan purposes. Sources are short on details regarding the number of ADGZ armoured cars produced, but close approximation was 53 in total between 1934 and 1942 (25 produced in early 1942 for the SS and 38 produced for Austrian Army by 1938).
Push-me pull-you!
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Mark Bannerman builds the double-fronted Panzerkampfwagen ADGZ in 1:35 scale.
Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 2014
ABOVE: Courtesy of Photoshop, the ADGZ in a Balkans setting.
BELOW: This is probably a Steyr-Daimler-Puch factory photo of the early style ADGZ. (Photo source unknown)
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Similar to German eight-wheeled vehicles such as the SdKfz 232, the ADGZ could be driven in either direction with a drivers seat facing both forward and to the rear. The ADGZ weighted 12-tons, was crewed by 4-6 men with a road speed of 70kph. It mounted a 20mm KwK 35 L/45 as well as two or three 7.92mm MG34. The 18-foot long vehicle was powered by Austro-Daimlers own M612 engine.
In kit formI have waited a long time to see this unusual armoured car make its appearance in plastic and I have to say that this was well worth the wait. Ive had in my possession the resin ADGZ armoured car kit by MR Modellbau. Schmidt also produced an ADGZ, but this was a vacu-form kit that required a fair amount of scratchbuilding. I was prepared to move ahead with the MR Modellbau item until an announcement was made that Arsenal Groupe Models (AMG for short) out of the Ukraine were releasing a late production ADGZ as an injection-moulded plastic offering. This is apparently a limited run of 1,000 but like all things, if it is popular enough more will be produced.
The model comes in a flimsy box and includes nine sprues in light grey plastic with 180 parts, a small etched-metal sheet (40+ parts), decals for four different vehicles, and 12 vinyl tyres all for the reasonable price of $60 (although shipping from the Ukraine to Canada cost me $30!). I would describe the offering as quite good being a notch higher than the quality you might expect from Eastern Express, Mirage and Alan. The instruction manual consists of eight pages and is easy to follow. The model is provided on nine sprues and surface detail is a little weak. The upper and lower hull parts are moulded as full pieces and the turret is in multiple parts. To their credit, while some of the detail is weak, other surface details have been provided as etched parts and these help to sharpen up the model. The etched-metal does not replace plastic parts included in the model rather, it is meant to be used.
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ABOVE: Arsenal Groupe Models release of the 1:35 scale plastic ADGZ (late type).BELOW: The model comes in a flimsy box containing nine sprues, an etched-metal sheet, decals, vinyl tyres and an 8-page instruction manual.
17
ABOVE: Early style ADGZ. Note the grille over the front headlights. (Photo source unknown)
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The beaded hinges for the hatches come in a long strip and the modeller slices this to length far more convenient than trying to cut out 16 small hinges and then cleaning them up! Other parts that I would consider replacing with after-market items include
the weapons and jerrycans.Areas that require additional detail included some rivets (punch and die set), and strips
of Evergreen plastic along
door/hatches which represents the water seals that are evident in wartime photos. Also, the sprues themselves have various sized nuts and bolts attached: 1mm hexagonal bolt with nut and round headed 0.8mm cylindrical and round headed bolts. I never noticed these bolts until I had almost completed the build! The bolts can be easily sliced off with a sharp hobby knife. There is some clean-up required removing excess plastic from the moulding process and there are quite a few sink holes, but none of these are noticeable as they are mostly on the inside of the vehicle.
ConstructionAs all of the hatches are moulded shut, I decided as a first step to cut out one hatch so that I could prop a figure leaning out of the drivers side. The hatch was cut out using a jewellers saw. I would later cut to size a replacement hatch from Evergreen plastic card. Before gluing the upper hull to the lower tub, I sprayed the interior in Tamiya Flat White XF-2. I then glued the upper and lower hulls together and the fit was not perfect so meticulous sanding and filing with soft sandpaper all around was necessary. There were still many gaps after using Tamiya Putty and sanding so a bit of auto putty went a long way to correcting the small gaps and holes. I also added thin strips of Evergreen sheet styrene along the hatches to fill the gaps as well as replicate photos where water seals were used around hatches.
Once the upper and lower halves of the hull were attached, I made a start with details such as the louvered radiator grille, exhaust, horns etc. The radiator grilles are moulded shut so I opted to cut sheet styrene strips to create a different look as all photos of the ADGZ that I have seen have the grilles open. In retrospect, I should have cut out the existing moulded closed grilles and then added the sheet styrene. Overall, the detailing of the hull was quite easy and the etched parts were very easy to use.
The lower suspension was also a relatively simple affair and took an evening to put together. There are very few parts that make up the suspension but it was well worth building up four tyres at the outset and adding Blu-Tack to their corners to ensure the model sat flush as I
progressed with the suspension. The wheels (12) consists of two half rims and need to be pushed into the vinyl wheels from either
side. The bolts on the rims are highly detailed and are precisely as seen in wartime images. The treads on the tyres are not quite as pictured in wartime photos but I have also found several different treads types used on the ADGZ. There is some flash on the outer rims
but this can be easily removed with
Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201418
ABOVE: Wet type decals are included for four vehicles.
BELOW: Sheet styrene was used for the engine grilles. I also drilled a hole to accommodate the mg and removed the plastic for the driver and co-driver visors.
ABOVE: Detail is a little soft but quite a few smaller details could be interchanged with Tamiya or Dragon items. Also, note the sprues have hexagonal and round-headed cylindrical bolts. A sharp hobby knife to slice these off takes seconds.
One of the hatches was cut out using a jewellers saw and strips of sheet styrene were added for the hatch seals.
a hobby knife. What I do like about the vinyl tyres is that they are very detailed with superbly moulded Continental logo and tyre-size-indicators (8.24x20).
The most difficult part of the assembly was the turret. The cylindrical turret comprises six parts, which includes a separate Commanders hatch. The parts were not a good fit and considerable effort was made to align the various parts that made up the turret. My recommendation is to glue part B6 (mantlet) to part B1 (rotating base) then glue the left and right side walls flush to the mantlet (B2 & B3) and be prepared to add a small strip of styrene to fill the gap at the back. The 20mm gun was replaced with a turned aluminium barrel and the 7.92 machine guns were replaced with Adlers Nest items.
PaintingFor the relatively small number of ADGZs produced, there is a surprisingly large number of pre-war and wartime photos of the ADGZ armoured car in Poland, in the Balkans, winter whitewash, on parade, factory and in the thick of battle. Earlier
Substantial work went into the turret by repeatedly sanding, adding putty, brushing on glues, and more sanding to a smooth finish.
The turret was not a good fit. Once the sidewalls were attached, there was a gap at the back of the turret.
ABOVE: I used sheet styrene to fill the gap then used copious amounts of glue. Once dry, it was sanded down flush.
ABOVE LEFT: The fit all round was not perfect so auto filler and glue and several sandpaper sticks were used to fill the small gaps. ABOVE RIGHT: Sheet styrene was also very helpful to filling long gaps. Once the sheet styrene was in place, I sanded the styrene flush to the surface. BELOW: The suspension was very simple affair perhaps too simple but critical to the assembly is ensuring that when the tyres are eventually attached, the four corner wheels sit flush to the surface.
BELOW: Putty was repeatedly used to fill gaps then copious amounts of glue were added to fill in the tiny air bubbles.
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pre-war photos of the ADGZ in Austrian service will often show Austrian crews wearing headgear which closely resembles the Italian WW2 tanker leather style M-35 helmet (with the neck flap). Unfortunately, I was unable to find any colour photos of the ADGZ but references suggest that the Austrian variant was either painted possibly in light tan or light brown with a camouflage of dark grey. In German
service, the ADGZ took on a panzer grey colour. Some ADGZs in SS service look to be almost black but one can never judge colours from black and white wartime photos. I have seen a few photos of the ADGZ in a winter whitewash. However, most photos typically show the ADGZ in an overall dark grey colour.
To start the painting process, I sprayed the model with a coat of Tamiya White Primer. I then base-painted it in a straight mix of Tamiya Semi Gloss Black X-18 mixed with Tamiya Medium Grey XF-20, but the overall appearance was a muddy grey which looked totally incorrect. So I stripped the model by immersing it in water with Tide Powder Detergent for a few days and this worked superbly.
This time, I wanted to try painting the model by painting in layers using various lighter shades. The technique is more commonly called Colour Modulation and I have read about it several times so it was time to put it to the test. The purpose of Colour Modulation is to create various layers of thinly applied paint for an almost three-dimensional effect going from very dark to very light. The technique requires an airbrush and some modellers will go the extra step of applying masking tape to ensure that paint lands exactly where its meant. To start, the application of a Tamiya Semi Gloss Black base provided a pre-shading of the model and an even start to the process. It also ensures that creases and shadow areas are well covered. Once the black had dried (which took about an hour to fully cure), I applied a light application of 50% Tamiya German Grey XF-63 mixed with 30% Tamiya Matt Black XF-1 and 20% Tamiya Field Blue XF-50 and airbrushed this mix at about a 45 degree angle all around the model. It does not have to be a thick heavy application. It is supposed to be a light
translucent application where the black can still be seen through this new layer.
The next application was a highly diluted mix of 80% Tamiya German
Grey mixed with 20% Tamiya Field Blue. The final application
was a light misting of highly diluted Tamiya Field Blue mixed with 90% Tamiya
Thinners and only airbrushed to the top of the model. I used
an eyedropper to measure out the precise ratios of paint and the applications were all painted with
a paint to thinner ratio of 7:3 (except the last application with the highly
Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201420
ABOVE: Throughout the construction, I frequently attached the wheels to ensure all wheels sat flush to the surface. In fact, the wheels were the very first step in the assembly of the project.
RIGHT: The model under construction. Parts were frequently dry-fitted before I committed to glue.
BELOW: The etched-metal was quite easy to work with because it is not of the flimsy type. Rather, it is relatively thick so it is very easy to sand.
RIGHT: The models surface was sanded frequently. Note the visor area has been cut out. I used a large drill then a sharp hobby knife to carve the shape.
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The model built and ready for Tamiya Primer.
The basecoat (my second go) was an attempt at Colour Modulation. I used Semi-Gloss Black (Tamiya X-18) as a base (post primer) then used Tamiya German Grey (XF-63), Tamiya Matt Black (XF-1) and Tamiya Field Blue (XF-50) in various ratios.
I was anxious to reach a more bluish tone than a grey tone and this was due to the addition of Tamiya Field Blue (XF-50) in the basecoating.
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diluted Field Blue neat). The idea with this last application was to allow a very light application of a light coloured paint to hit only those areas that are perfectly flat and any protruding details from the side of the hull almost as though one were trying to create highlights with an airbrush.
Although this technique is termed Colour Modulation, I would equally term the approach as Layering where one builds up the paint surface from dark to light and, at the same time, trying to recreate how natural light would ordinarily hit a vehicle in real life. It is a means of adding synthetic shadows and highlights but with an airbrush, over larger areas and making the transition between light and dark much more subtle. There are variations on the approach of creating the gradations of tones. On this model, I used four applications, all very thinly and lightly applied with the source of light coming from directly above the vehicle. Every application should be thinly applied so that the previous paint layer can still be seen through the paint layers. On this model, the original gloss black can still be seen in the crevices and along panel lines on the lower part of the model.
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INSET: The first step in the weathering was brushing the entire model down with Testors Enamel Thinners with a small mix of Winton Burnt Umber.
ABOVE: I mixed up various earth-coloured powders using dry pastels from the local art store (not the oil type). The sticks are sanded down to a fine dust and kept in a sealed container.
RIGHT: The whole model, including the wheels, was brushed with the pastels.
BELOW: I mixed a wash of Winton Brunt Umber (10%), Vandyke Brown (10%) and 80% Testors Thinners in a small cup.
BELOW: I brushed the wash all over the model keeping the applications very liberal enough for the wash to capillary into all the nooks and crannies.
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WeatheringI wanted to keep this step a relatively simple one. Ordinarily, there is a checklist of processes that I go through; filters, washes, pinwashes, pastels, chips, rust, oil spills and rain marks. I wanted to attempt depicting a relatively well-maintained, almost freshly-painted vehicle with an accumulation of dust. One of the difficulties with creating dust using pastels is that it can sometimes look as though it was brushed on and it is just resting on the surface.
I wanted to find a way to make the dust appear to have been grinded into the finish of the vehicle. I also decided not to add rust, chips and a multitude of filters.
After adding the marking, the first step in the process was brushing the entire model down with Testors Enamel Thinners with a hint of Winton Burnt Umber. Testors Thinners is a great product to break up the tension on the model surface and to provide a gritty finish that will allow pastels to
A close-up of the final result after a pinwash using Testors Thinners mixed with Winton Mars Black.
I used the widest brush I had and stroked it in a downward motion.
The brushing motion catches excess pastels on flat areas but then deposits into seams and panels.
I brushed the model with Testors Thinners neat. You can see where the thinners are still wet (around the hooks attached to the hull).
The effect after the thinners had completely dried (using a hairdryer really helps speed up the drying process.
The result after two applications of pastels and washes.
The second round of pastels and wash resulted in a more patchy effect but this can be remedied with another wide brush with thinners used neat.
adhere to the surface of the model. Next, I mixed various earth-coloured pastels. I use mostly dry pastels bought at the art store and sand down the sticks. With a very large brush, I painted the pastels over all of the model, including the tyres, leaving a relatively consistent layer of pastels on all
surfaces. I then mixed up a wash of Winton Burnt Umber (10%), Vandyke Brown (10%) and
80% Testors Thinners in a small cup. I used a very wide brush
and painted the model using a liberal amount of the wash, right over the pastels on
the model and always stroking the brush in a downward motion. The motion of drawing the wet brush in a downward motion picks up the pastels
and clears up open flat areas and then deposits
the pastels around rivets, in corners and along panels and
inside seams.Once the thinners had dried, I
repeated the step by again brushing on a more conservative amount of a lighter mix
of earth-coloured pastels onto the model. I repeated the process of brushing the same
wash in a downward motion, picking excess pastels and allowing the wash to deposit the pastels into corners and along seams. I then brushed the entire model using Testors Thinners neat and allowed the wash to pick up any stray pastels and this further capillaries into seams and depositing pastels in depressions on the surface of the model. My last step was to pin-pastel that is, deposit pastels in specific areas such as rivets and bolts and using an eye-droppers, squeezing only a drop or two of Testors Thinners right on the rivet. When the model was completely dry, I used a coarse dried-out brush and scrubbed the surface to eliminate any excess pastels that accumulated too heavily in certain areas.
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Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201424
BELOW: A Warrior head painted in oils and added to an unknown body.
ABOVE: The authors completed model.
RIGHT: Frontal view of the model. Note how the front (and rear) wheels are purposely slanted inwards at the bottom.
ABOVE: The ADGZ in Poland 1939, courtesy of Photoshop.
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With the model fully dusted up, I finished up by applying a pinwash using Testors Thinners mixed with Winton Mars Black to accentuate panels line and seams. This weathering process took an evening. The same methodology was used on the hubcaps and rubber of the tyres. I used my thumb to rub the treads to remove excess pastels and create the effect that the vehicle had been operating on pavement.
Although I did purposely skip quite a few weathering steps that I would ordinarily apply, I
tend to think that the results of the pastel and wash combination did not necessitate doing any more to the model. Of course, nothing would usually prevent me from going in with chips, rust and rain marks at this point, but I was more interested in depicting a vehicle that was not so heavily weather-beaten but had been subjected to dust. I particularly like that the pastels look grounded into the surface and created a faded effect on the surface. Sometimes simple is better!
ConclusionThis model could be further detailed with a full hull and turret interior if you were to open the moulded-on side hatches all of the way around. Also, you could convert it back to an earlier design in Austrian and early German service by changing the light type (flat design with mesh) and altering the placement of some of the on-hull details. This offering does not fall together perfectly but putty and sandpaper will do the trick. For markings, the model provides four sets of wet decal type markings: 204-29 Cross Aces Soviet German Front 1942, 204-40 Hpt. Koch Regenburg, 204-41 Unit unknown 1942-1945, 204-33 Seydlitz 7th SS Freiwillige gebirgs division Prinz Eugen Yugoslavia 1943.
The model is quite accurate dimensionally and is the only plastic offering of one the more unique vehicles used by the German army during the early-war years. For the competitive price of $60, this is a bargain for anyone looking for something different and unique. Itll be interesting whether AGM will release the earlier variant ADGZ with the unusual light fixtures or perhaps one of the few ADGZ armoured cars with turrets converted with Soviet T-26 turrets used in the Russian campaign.
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ABOVE: Courtesy of Photoshop, the ADGZ in Krakow 1939.
BELOW: Diorama setting of the ADGZ somewhere in Poland.
...the only plastic offering of one the
more unique vehicles used by the German
army during the early-war years.
Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201426
I occasionally accept box art commissions from manufacturers
subject to the time that I have available...
Contrary to popular belief box art models are not built from hand-picked parts, they are usually an initial production kit selected at random from stock, which makes this tale all the more unusual. I occasionally accept box art commissions from manufacturers subject to the time that I have available and the date that the completed box art will be required. I also have a strict rule that I only use the contents of the kit and no accessories such as ladders, wheelbarrows etc. so that the customer can see what they are getting in the box.
Whilst visiting Euro Militaire last year, this Reality in Scale (RiS) model caught my eye. The model was on sale as pre-release and it was not due to be officially released until mid-November. As there was no box art, RiS had assembled a display model from pre-production and rejected parts so that customers
could see the product and presumably be pleasantly surprised by the contents of the kits which contained much better quality production parts.
Olav Smeets asked me if I would build and paint one of these models as the box art for the kit. I had initially declined to accept the commission as I could not guarantee to have it ready in time for the release date due to the demands on my modelling time. However, the model had piqued my interest and I came up with a compromise, as time was the problem I offered to collect and paint the display model at the end of the show.
Olav did not like this idea, and would have much preferred that I took one of the production kits which were on sale to the public, as the display model was not up to their high production standard. Eventually though, he reluctantly agreed to my compromise offer.
Michael McLaughlin relates an unusual tale about the creation of a box art.
Painting a Factory
Diorama
The completed model photographed outdoors using the sky as a backdrop.
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...it is very unhealthy
to inhale or ingest resin dust, so all
sanding, scraping etc., should be done
wet to prevent dust...
The modelThis kit portrays one end of an industrial building of brick and render construction, with a dual-pitch, metal-clad roof and large windows. It is suitable for use for any period in at least the last 100-years. On one side there is a steel door with a cast concrete loading bay with steps on and a lean-to boiler room with a tall chimney on the other side which is topped off with a corrugated roof. The kit (item 35237) is cast in resin and a sheet of translucent plastic is supplied for the glazing, the detail and the casting are of the highest standard.
As is usual with Reality in Scale the clever design allows it to fit, at an angle along the side or as a backdrop to a diorama with a very small footprint on the base. The windows feature Milk Glass which is a form of glass that very was popular from the end of the 19th Century until the mid-20th Century. Milk glass glazing can be opaque, or translucent, smooth or textured and is still in use today, to let in light whilst ensuring privacy.
I was only after photographing the windows and looking at the enlarged images on my computer that I saw that the translucent plastic supplied in the kit has a very delicate frosting moulded into it and the window frames feature textured beads of putty, which is remarkable attention to detail!
Background storyI like to have an imaginary background story for a model which then influences any decisions which are made during the building and painting. I had read somewhere that the period before World War Two, which is my area of interest, was a time of economic growth after recession. This gave me a background story for the finish of this model which I decided to portray as having been neglected for some time, but there had been recent repairs and improvements carried out as the owners fortunes had improved.
PreparationI have to state that it is very unhealthy to inhale or ingest resin dust, so all sanding, scraping etc., should be done wet to prevent dust and hands should be washed thoroughly with soap and water.
The model had been assembled in a hurry with no fitting or filling, which says a lot about Reality in Scales high production standards that even these
rejected parts fitted so well! The glass had been glued to the window frames and the completed assemblies had been attached to the model with clear tape. I carefully removed the widows, with the tape still attached, from the model. As I was removing the tape from the windows I damaged the plastic glass and part of the window frame. The damage to the glass looked like three broken window panes which afforded the opportunity to personalise the model somewhat.
The first job was to repair the broken frame, which I did with plastic strip; next I carefully cut out the milk-glass from the bottom pane and replaced it with wood from a coffee stirrer, to represent a homemade repair to a broken window. I cut the salvaged piece of glass to add broken shards to the other broken panes.
I gave the model a thorough wash in warm water and washing-up liquid as the model had been heavily
Diorama
The model as it appeared at Euro Militaire.
The box art featuring the authors model. The parts in the production kit.
Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201428
Diorama
A coat of primer shows the detail and will also show any imperfections.Particular attention was paid to the rear of the model to achieve a smooth finish. This just cries out for an interior and maybe some lights?
Matt black was used to fill the recesses, outline detail and add shadows.
White was sprayed downwards and across the model to highlight and add directional lighting.
The basic colours were blocked in using an airbrush and the pre-shading and pre-highlighting shows through.
The model was heavily dry-brushed with white.
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Diorama
handled as it was passed around to customers at Euro Militaire. Once dry the model was primed with Halfords Grey Primer and checked for any imperfections. As I sprayed on the grey primer the details, textures and opportunities to create different effects in one model suddenly became apparent. This unleashed what I can only describe as a torrent of ideas. A quick image search on Google for some of the materials portrayed on this model, such as the steel chimney, unleashed yet further ideas. I really cant recall another model which has sparked so much inspiration!
There were some gaps at the back which were easily filled with Milliput. I have learned from previous models like this, that the finish of the back of the model is as important as the front, so I spent a little getting a nice smooth finish. I used three grades of wet and dry paper; 60, 120 and 400 which were dampened with water and laid on a toughened glass kitchen chopping board. The back of the model was sanded by holding the model and moving it around in a figure of eight shape against the abrasive paper; I took care to reverse the action to ensure a smooth and flat surface.
The model was washed and primed again and then the back of the model and the interior was sprayed with Halfords Matt Black car paint. The frames with the windows attached needed to be primed, so I sprayed Vallejo Matt Varnish from a spray can over the windows, left them overnight to dry under a clear plastic box to keep out dust and airborne fibres.
PaintingI had previously built another Reality in Scale factory model, so I wanted a different finish this time and, as this model was destined to be box art, I thought something a little more eye-catching and colourful would be appropriate. I researched colour schemes from the 1920s and 1930s and I eventually adopted a typical colour scheme of the time: ochre, terracotta and green details. On the model this would be yellow ochre rendering, red brick columns with green wood and metalwork.
I used Tamiya acrylic paints simply because I have a large stock of them. When airbrushing Tamiya paints I add a touch of drop of Tamiya Smoke X-19 and a drop of Iwata Medea Airbrush Cleaner to the colour and thin the mix with Isopropyl Alcohol. The Tamiya Smoke and Medea Cleaner make the paint flow much better at low pressures and give a smoother finish.
I sprayed the shadow areas with Tamiya Flat Black XF-1 which I airbrushed into all the recesses, outlined various features and sprayed the paint upwards at an angle of 45 degrees. This was followed by a rough and heavy dry-brushing with Humbrol Matt White 34 mixed with Winsor & Newton Titanium White oil paint, which reduced in intensity closer to the ground. I sprayed Tamiya Flat White XF-2 at an acute angle downwards over the rendering and directly on areas I wanted to highlight. I wanted to play with directional lighting on this model, so I sprayed more white from above and from one side which highlighted the right-hand side of the model (viewed from the front) and across the front. The model looked like a black and white photo at this stage.
I then sprayed the base colour, Tamiya Desert Yellow XF-59, at an acute angle downwards over the rendering allowing the white and black to show through. I blocked in the brickwork by freehand airbrushing Tamiya Hull Red XF-9, the black outlining which I had previously applied allowed me to feather the colour into the black and reduced the need for masking.
The pre-highlighting and shading gave a variety of tone to the brickwork and not much more attention was required. The roofs, metalwork and woodwork were airbrushed with Tamiya Field Grey XF-65 and the concrete around the base of the chimney, loading-bay and steps were sprayed with Tamiya Medium Grey XF-20.
The chimney was basecoated in Mr. Metal Color Stainless and polished before being spatter sprayed with Iron.
This photo shows the difference that polishing with a microfibre cloth makes to the paint effect. On the left of the photo is the unpolished paint and on the right the same paint after polishing.
The polished galvanised steel effect.
ABOVE: The delicate frosting on the glass and the putty around each window frame can be seen in this extreme close-up.
The galvanised steel effect was applied. Some detail painting and foliage completed the model.
Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201430
Diorama
I hand-painted the window frames with Vallejo Extra Dark Green 896 and highlighted them with Vallejo Green Grey 886. The windows are deliberately cast slightly undersized and require some filler or shims to get a perfect fit. This is to prevent stress on the delicately cast window frames, which could break if the fit was too tight and pressure applied to force them into place. On this model it is a bonus as steel framed windows like these were often just cemented in place, (the original steel framed windows in my 1936 house in Glasgow were cemented in place). It also allowed me to get the horizontal and vertical lines to match those of the building.
This left the chimney to be painted and another Google image search gave me plenty of ideas, I rejected the obvious rusty finish as I am tired of seeing rusty finishes on 1:35 scale models. My recent purchase of a set of GSI Mr Metal Color paints also influenced this decision.
Bare metal finishes are very common on aircraft models, but seldom portrayed in ground based subjects and dioramas. I decided to depict the bottom half of the chimney painted red and white, but with the top sections recently replaced with new unpainted galvanised steel sections. When new, galvanised steel looks shiny and silver from a distance, but on closer inspection it looks mottled with varying amounts of darker metal tones. It took a bit of thought, but I came up with a method to replicate this effect.
I painted the lower sections of the chimney with white and then red. I sprayed the top section of the chimney with Mr. Metal Color Stainless, allowed it to dry and polished it with a cotton bud. After a lot of fiddling about, I managed to get my airbrush to spray a spatter by turning the air pressure down as low as possible and rocking the trigger back and forth to get the paint to flow at this low pressure. I spatter-sprayed the metal section with Mr. Metal Color Iron, which was allowed to dry and then polished with a domestic microfibre cloth.
The painting was completed a lot faster than I expected and I still had plenty of time before the deadline which gave me the opportunity to do a little more detail work. The brickwork looked fine as it was, but I couldnt resist adding mortar between the bricks with Vallejo Stone Grey 884 and tinting exposed areas of render. I also tinted some individual bricks a thin coat of colours from the Andrea Flesh set to add a little variety.
WeatheringI dirtied the windows with thin layers of Vallejo Smoke 939, building up the colour towards the bottom of each frame to suggest grime which had been washed down by rain and accumulated at the bottom.
As there are a lot of starlings flying about where I live I decided to add evidence of birds by adding small bird-droppings. Painting them by hand would have been time-consuming, so I again used spatter spraying, this time using Tamiya J.A. Grey XF-14 over the roofs and places where they would congregate.
I used Vallejo German Camouflage Black Brown to paint the base of the chimney, outline and define some areas and a red wash over some of the brickwork. I had some Andrea flesh colours on my bench, which work very well as rust tones. Using
Views of the completed model.
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a fine sponge I added some rust to the chimney and rust spots to various metal parts and I added some small patches of foliage around the building to represent weeds.
To finish off I sprayed heavily thinned Tamiya Smoke X-19 to intensify some shadows add some heat discolouration and shading to the chimney and Tamiya Flat Flesh XF-15 to discolour the white, fade the red on the chimney, woodwork, the render and add some more directional lighting.
ConclusionThis model was a pleasure to work with and has prompted me to think about building an interior to slot into the back and add another dimension to it, perhaps with model railway lighting. I am happy to say that Olav Smeets of Reality in Scale was very pleased with my unusual finish on this model and it has been accepted as the box art for this kit.
Supplierswww.realityinscale.comwww.acrylicosvallejo.comwww.winsornewton.comwww.andrea-miniatures.comwww.historexagents.com
Diorama
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LEFT: The production box for the kit.
BELOW: The completed model next to Mikes previous factory model.
Beutepanzer Char B1 bis
Wouter Vrints explains the weathering techniques used on his Panzerkampfwagen B2 740(f) model.
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Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201432
When the war in France had ended in 1940, some Char B1 bis Tanks were adopted by the German army and most saw service on the Channel Islands, although a small handful were used during the early stages of Operation Barbarossa. I chose to depict my model as a captured, or Beutepanzer Char B1 bis, that saw action in Russia, though I decided to build a fictional one.
ConstructionTamiya have released two 1:35 scale Char B1 bis kits; French Battle Tank B1 bis item T35282 and the B1 bis German Army item T35287, which I used. Both kits can be used to build a French B1 bis, with all the bits and pieces provided, but the German Army kit has all the extra features to build the German version of the
RIGHT: The box art for Tamiyas 1:35 scale kit of the Char B1 bis in German Army service.
BELOW: The authors completed model placed in a scenic setting courtesy of Photoshop.
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1
Clever engineering ensures that pretty much all the ejector
pin marks are hidden when constructed...
B1 bis. These kits are fairly expensive, but they are worth it!
Without doubt this is one of the best model kits I have ever seen. Clever engineering ensures that pretty much all the ejector pin marks are hidden when constructed, there is no flash at all and the moulded parts are fresh and clean. Also provided are link and length tracks, which are workable, in fact the whole running gear is! A metal chain is also provided and a fine example can be built out of the box, and although there are some omissions, these can be easily resolved, as I will explain.
Construction is pretty much straightforward and it goes together fairly quickly. The Char B1 bis has a lot of roadwheels, but modellers building German WW2 armour should be familiar with this. In no time I had assembled the hull. (Photo 1)
Tamiya have simplified some areas; for example there are some rivets missing on the upper sponsons, as well as around the 75mm howitzer. I bought some Archer Fine Transfers Rivets (item AR88091), which are located on a carrier film and applied like decals. They were fixed using Micro Sol. Also, on the upper sponsons mud scrapers were located as well as spare track hangers on the front of the hull, but these arent provided in the kit so I scratchbuilt them using Evergreen styrene.
The front plate with the drivers visor in the kit comprises two separate parts to be glued together. This causes a narrow gap on the left that wasnt there on the real vehicle since it was formed out of one single plate, so I filled the gap with Milliput White Epoxy Putty. (Photo 2)
Beutepanzer Char B1 bis
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Military Modelling Vol.44 No.10 201434
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The turret is a fine piece of moulding and doesnt need much extra detailing. Around the lower edge of the B1 bis turret there was a prominent weld line that can easily be added. For this I used a piece of stretched sprue glued in place with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. When fixed firmly in place, I added a liberal amount of Extra Thin and gently pressed the
end of a sharp modelling knife into the seam, thus creating the typical texture of a
weld seam. To add a bit more texture to the turret, Tamiya Extra Thin was brushed on and
a stiff brush dabbed into the softened plastic. When dry I gently sanded it down and obtained
a great cast texture. The German modified turret cupola is made up of two parts in the kit; again the seam was filled with Milliput White Putty and texture was added. (Photo 3)
The kit provides two types of trackguards; the broad ones that are fitted close to the hull and narrower ones, which leave a small gap between the inner side of the trackguard and the hull. I chose the latter because this gives much more opportunity for additional weathering and an excellent area to show the build up of mud.
The tracks are something special as well. As mentioned before they are length and link tracks, which is great. But the best thing about it is that you just simply click one into another, leaving them fully workable. A little cleanup was required and there are some minor ejector pin marks on the outer surface that need to be sanded down, but that was pretty much all. (Photo 4)
PaintingSince I built this kit completely out of the box, I felt there was no need for a primer. With that in mind I decided to use Tamiya German Grey as the base colour, thinned with their Lacquer Thinner that makes the paint adhere to plastic surfaces really well. (Photo 5)
I pretty much always apply the colour modulation technique to my models, and this time was no different. Colour modulation works very well, especially on monochrome paintjobs. It makes it much more interesting and helps to get a decent foundation for further weathering. For the highlights I used Lifecolor Dunkelgrau UA610 mixed with a hint of white creating a nice contrast.
Gloss coats and me arent good friends! Generally I find it hard to get a decent glossy finish without little blobs coming out of the airbrush, no matter what I try. Decals are always a bit tricky as
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well; the one thing you dont want is silvering of the decals so, to avoid any of those risks, I used templates from Voyager Models (item PEA176). With some pieces of Tamiya Masking Tape I put the spray template in place and then sprayed some Off White paint at low pressure. Both the balkenkreuz and turret number were done like this. (Photo 6)
ChippingPrior to weathering I always add paint chips. There are many ways this can be done, but normally I use a paintbrush and some Vallejo paints. Make sure you have a quality brush with a sharp tip! I use a Winsor & Newton 7 Series Miniature 1 brush. These dont come cheap, but are well worth the money. Vallejo Pale Grey Blue 70907 was used for the lighter chips. I thinned the paint slightly with some demineralised water and painted the chips where t
