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Module 14: Sustainable Fashion and Respective Machineries Production
Module 14: Sustainable Fashion and Respective Machineries
Production
14.1 Sustainable Fashion
Sustainable fashion is a movement and process of fostering change to fashion products and the
fashion system towards greater ecological integrity and social justice. Sustainable fashion
concerns more than addressing fashion textiles or products. It comprises addressing the whole
system of fashion. This means dealing with interdependent social, cultural, ecological and
financial systems
From an environmental perspective, the aim should be to minimize any undesirable
environmental effect of the product’s life cycle by:
(a) Ensuring efficient and careful use of natural resources (water, energy, land, soil, animals,
plants, biodiversity, ecosystems, etc.)
(b) Selecting renewable energy sources (wind, solar, etc.) at every stage
(c) Maximizing repair, remake, reuse, and recycling of the product and its components.
From a socio-economic perspective, all stakeholders should work to improve present working
conditions for workers on the field, in the factories, transportation chain, and stores, by aligning
with good ethics, best practice and international codes of conduct. In addition, fashion companies
should contribute to encourage more sustainable consumption patterns, caring and washing
practices, and overall attitudes to fashion. (Green Strategy, June 2014)
Sustainable fashion is thus partly about producing clothes, shoes and accessories in
environmentally and socio-economically sustainable manners, but also about more sustainable
patterns of consumption and use, which necessitate shifts in individual attitudes and behavior.
However, there are many ways for fashion companies to offer a more sustainable fashion, and
for consumers to consume more sustainably.
14.2 Seven Forms of Sustainable Fashion
Sustainable fashion is today a highly debated and increasingly covered topic in media and at
seminars worldwide. More and more clothing companies are transforming their business models
and improving their supply chains to reduce overall environmental impacts, improve social
conditions in factories, etc. We also see a growing awareness among consumers, especially
younger generations. (It may be added that some individuals rightly question whether the word
“sustainable” should in fact be used in relation to the fashion industry, which by definition relies
on fast consumption. A better term may thus be more sustainable fashion.)
More sustainable fashion can be defined as clothing, shoes and accessories that are
manufactured, marketed and used in the most sustainable manner possible, taking into account
both environmental and socio-economic aspects. In practice, this implies continuous work to
improve all stages of the product’s life cycle, from design, raw material production,
manufacturing, transport, storage, marketing and final sale, to use, reuse, repair, remake and
recycling of the product and its components.
When we learn about “sustainable fashion”, we soon realize that there are many forms of (more)
sustainable fashion. Some actors and individuals emphasize the importance of making clothes in
a more environmentally friendly manner, while others advocate secondhand/vintage or underline
the benefits of swapping, renting or borrowing clothes as opposed to purchasing newly produced
clothes. All strategies promoting more environmentally, socially and ethically conscious
production and consumption are important steps towards a more sustainable industry. Green
Strategy has identified seven main forms of more sustainable fashion production and
consumption, as seen in the figure below.
http://www.greenstrategy.se/sustainable-fashion/seven-forms-of-sustainable-fashion
14.3 Cradle-to-cradle
The cradle-to-cradle principle was originally suggested by Stahel in the 1970s (Lovins 2008,
p.38) and again at the beginning of the new millennium by McDonough and Braungart (2002).
According to this principle a product is designed and manufactured in such a manner that
multiple life cycles of the product or materials are possible. The cradle-to-cradle principle
counsels that after the use phase the product will continue in technical or biological life cycles,
meaning it will be recycled into a new material or it will be composted. This means that
materials, dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries have to be suitable either for recycling or composting
(i.e. be biodegradable). This is a challenging task since, for instance, only few textile colors or
chemicals in the fibers can be composted without environmental problems.
14.4 Redesign
The redesign of old materials into new fashion products has become popular at the beginning of
the 21st century. Reuse and redesign is sometimes called an eco-efficiency approach (Fletcher
2008) even though these strategies do not address the real problem: the increase in production
and consumption. Reuse and redesign need no changes in current consumer practices, so it is
easy to accept. And since we have huge amounts of textile and clothing waste, redesign has
begun to be a popular and trendy fashion design approach. In the redesign approach it is
beneficial to remember that all textile materials are not designed for clothing purposes, which
might make them feel uncomfortable in use and even unsuitable to wear against the skin.
14.5 Recycling
Recycling means that the product is recycled into new material or fibers. Recycling can mean
down cycling or up cycling. In down cycling processes we lose some of the value of the material
and the quality is lower than in the original material. Therefore down cycled material is mainly
used for filling purposes. Up cycling, in contrast, aims to keep the product’s quality high and it
can even mean increasing the value of the material e.g. through design. The recycling approach
needs mono materials, which means that the whole garment is made from one material only
(including threads, buttons, zipper etc.). This makes it easy to recycle as one piece and one
material (e.g. as with Patagonia’s products). Another possibility is that all parts are easy to
disassemble and products have to design in this manner. But this is complicated to realize in
clothing where disassembling would be too time-consuming and costly. Mono-materials in
fashion items are also not very common and nearly all garments are made of fiber blends that are
complicated or impossible to recycle. If we accept the current consumption practices as they are,
and the concomitant huge amount of textile and clothing waste, we have to invest in a recycling
economy; then polyester is our choice. Polyester can be melt-spun and this results in high quality
material. Even though we see savings in e.g. energy, the process still needs a certain amount of
virgin polyester material, and this approach locks us into polyester production and the
accompanying oil production.
https://shop.aalto.fi/media/attachments/1ee80/SustainableFashion.pdf
14.6 Sustainable Fashion Appears in Various Terms
By applying the concept of sustainability to fashion, ‘Sustainable Fashion’ can be defined as a
system in which supply, production, and consumption of fashion products have been designed in
a way that ensures environmental, social and economic sustainability.
As the definition implies, sustainable fashion is not limited to a mere product, but it is a
philosophy that also embraces design processes, supply chain strategies, and consumption
practices.
There are several terms that are being used by brands, practitioners, and academics to explain the
different notions lying beneath the concept of sustainable fashion, such as eco-fashion, ethical-
fashion, organic-fashion, green-fashion, vegan-fashion and so on.
This variety of terms and in some cases inconsistency of definitions stem from the novelty of the
topic of sustainable fashion which leaves this concept open to interpretation.
14.7 Complications of The Path Towards Sustainable Fashion
The immaturity of sustainable fashion as an emerging concept has made our path to the
development of a more sustainable industry a challenging topic of debate.
To date, in the context of sustainable fashion, the fact that there is no general standard or
guideline in regard to the responsibility of corporations or consumers, adds to the confusion in
defining sustainable fashion and prioritizing its initiatives.
In this light, though, there have been some efforts in providing primary tools for
standardizing apparel manufacturing processes around sustainable production and consumption,
such as The Higg Index by The Sustainable Apparel Coalition, leading alliance for sustainable
production in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry.
Moreover, the definition of ‘fashion’ – meaning ‘trend’ in general and the change of style and
the replacement of old with new in particular – denotes some discrepancy with the concept of
sustainability.
Fashion at some level poses the idea of excessive consumption, whereas sustainability implies
minimizing consumption to the level of necessity. This perspective sees sustainable fashion as a
self-contradictory term, urging a fundamental change in the development of sustainable fashion.
14.8 Sustainable Fashion as A Movement
Since the UN’s “Our Common Future” report in 1987, the catastrophic impact of human
activities on the environment has been the centre of many debates.
Today, more studies and reports are warning us from the reduction of natural resources and the
spread of pollution as the consequence of our production and consumption patterns.
As such, consumers have become more conscious of their health, social well-being, the
vulnerability of our planet, and the consequence of their actions on the wellness of the next
generations.Along with these changes, all industries have been affected by the initiatives of
sustainable development and compelled to take action in this direction.
In particular, in the apparel industry where the production and consumption of fashion products
involve toxic wastes and harmful environmental effects in all stages, making the development of
sustainable fashion not only an opportunity but also a necessity.
14.9 The Fast Fashion Effect
Moreover, a big part of today’s excessive production and consumption of fashion products stems
from the appearance of ‘Fast Fashion’. Fast fashion is defined as a strategy in which the
profitability of fashion retailers is being maximized by the implication of agile supply chain
systems which allow them to capitalize on fashion that has not reached to their competitors.
Over time, the implications of this strategy have heightened impulsive fashion purchases and
shortened the lifecycle of fashion products to the level that fashion products are now considered
as disposable commodities.
Because of this trend, many of today’s inexpensive fashion items are being discarded only after
being worn just a handful of times. In fact, thanks to such practices, fashion has been introduced
as one of the most polluter sectors.
14.10 Sustainable Fashion Designer Sustainable fashion should include life cycle thinking, which takes into account all phases:
design, manufacturing, logistics, retail, use and disposal. It is said that it is better to design life
cycles instead of products; sustainable design includes consideration of the use phase and end-of-
life thinking. At best the product has the possibility to have several life cycles: it should be
designed how the product can be used after the first life cycle is over. From the environmental
point of view it is best to use the product as it is, the second best option is to redesign a new
product from it (e.g. through minor modifications), and the third option is to recycle the
materials.
Sandy Black (2011, pp. 46–47) gives the following guidelines for a sustainable fashion designer:
design for the entire garment’s life cycle (including use and disposal)
• Reuse waste materials
• Recycle
• Up cycle
• Repair and remodel garments
• Recreate (e.g. existing design concepts)
• Reduce (use of resources and creation of waste)
• Use ecological materials
• Use mono materials
• Use new technologies
• Create longer lasting products
• Design multifunctional clothes
• Design for delight.
https://shop.aalto.fi/media/attachments/1ee80/SustainableFashion.pdf
14.11 The Importance of Sustainable Fashion As a response to these problems that are threatening the future of fashion, sustainable fashion has
emerged as a new concept and has become a growing subject of interest for scholars,
practitioners, and consumers. Many believe that the future of fashion depends on its ability to
adopt sustainability and embed this concept at its core.
Although achieving sustainability by its definition is not possible as the dynamic characteristic of
nature defies the concept, a more sustainable institution embraces human nature at a very high
level. This is because it has the ability to satisfy both our egoistic and altruistic needs.
Therefore, sustainable fashion has the potential to empower consumers’ feeling of fulfillment by
making more conscious choices and their consumption of sustainable fashion products.
14.12 What About Consumers? Although due to the immaturity and complexity of the concept of sustainable fashion, some
practices taken by corporations could be misleading and, in some cases, have turned to ‘green
washing’, the awareness of the environmental and social issues associated to the production and
consumption of fashion products has been raised.
The sustainable fashion movement – which to certain extent stems from the higher levels of
awareness – is now generated demand from consumers and stakeholders who indirectly
pressurize corporations and urge them to take genuine actions towards environmental, social and
economic welfare.
In this light, sustainable fashion has created a great opportunity for fashion brands and designers
to contribute to sustainable fashion movement and position themselves as the leaders of this
emerging landscape.
14.13 Sustainable Fashion in Macro and Micro Level However, there is a need for more conversations, assessments, and reassessments as we are
merely at the development stage. To achieve sustainable fashion it is important to have both
macro and micro perspective.
The macro perspective sees sustainable fashion from a systematic point of view. In this view, all
the players in this landscape including suppliers, manufacturers, regulators, and consumers, work
together in synergy and interdependently towards a higher level of welfare. Whereas, the micro
view investigates what actions from these players would lead us towards sustainable fashion.
14.14 Responsibility of Fashion Companies The main responsibility of fashion companies is obviously to change their production,
distribution and marketing practices and strategies towards greater sustainability. But companies
also have the possibility to contribute to more sustainable consumption patterns. Some Swedish
fashion companies provide fashion as second hand or have initiated rental systems for leasing
clothes and accessories. Other companies focus mainly on creating fashion that is of high quality
and timeless design, i.e. of long-lasting style and durability. Other companies (e.g. H&M) have
set up collection and recycling systems that support increased textile recycling. Some companies
choose to partner with I:CO, for example H&M, Adidas, Jack&Jones, Puma and the North Face.
To manufacture clothes with certified textiles (according to environmental labels and Fair trade)
is another strategy to promote more conscious consumption patterns.
Green Strategy supports all the above strategies and activities that increase a company’s
sustainability performance and encourage more sustainable production and consumption
patterns.
http://www.greenstrategy.se/sustainable-fashion/what-is-sustainable-fashion/
14.15 Machineries to use for recycled polyester from Waste -
Step-by-Step
i. Source Recycled Waste: Recycled plastic bottles and post-industrial waste (including
our own) are collected worldwide.
ii. Make the Chip: Waste material is chopped, ground, washed, melted and reformulated
into high-quality REPREVE chip.
iii. Form the Fiber: Chip is melted into liquid polymer and extruded through tiny openings
in a spinneret, creating continuous filaments that form REPREVE fiber.
iv. Process the Yarn: Fiber becomes yarn through spinning and air-jet texturing.
v. Ship to Customers: Finished yarn goes into fabrics, making everyday products more
sustainable.
14.15.1 Open end spinning machine:
Open-end spinning is a technology for creating yarn without using a spindle .The global demand
for spun fibre is huge. Converting raw fibre to yarn is a complicated process. Many
manufacturers compete to provide the spinning machines that are essential to meeting the
demand by delivering increases in spinning productivity and additional improvements in yarn
quality. Over the past three centuries spinning technology has been continuously improved
through thousands of minor innovations, and occasional major advances that have collectively
increased the quality and lowered the cost of producing yarn dramatically.
Advantages:
Ø Disappearance of simplex frame.
Ø Under certain circumstances, elimination of the second passage draw frame.
Ø In some cases, with the use of auto-leveller at the cards, elimination of even the draw
frame passage.
Ø Bigger supply of cans to open-end and bigger packages to weaving.
Ø Elimination of winding.
Ø Less labor and power cost per kilogram of yarn.
Ø Higher productivity almost 7 times in the case of 10s and high efficiency.
Ø Fully automated mill a reality
14.15.2 Automatic pocket sewing machine Machine can be easily programmed via the large touch screen LCD display to create a pattern
according to the shape, and size of the application. The machine allows the user to attach pockets
in a much more efficient way. With the adoption of automatic feeding device, the operator can
prepare the pocket placement while the machine is sewing the pocket. Once the first pocket is
done, the device will automatically feed the second pocket to the head for sewing, while the
operator is preparing the third pockets, and the operation continues on.
Automatic pocket sewing machine
14.15.2 Computer-controlled Cycle Machine with Input Function
The sewing machine achieves the highest sewing speed, 2,800sti/min, in the industrial sewing
machine industry. As a result, cycle time is dramatically reduced. The feed accuracy is
substantially improved due to the adoption of the encoder control system.
The new AMS Series models substantially decrease power consumption when compared with the
conventional ones. They have been designed to achieve eco-friendliness.
AMS-210EN-HS1510
Computer-controlled Cycle Machine with Input Function
14.16 Some of Sustainable Technologies in Textile Machineries:
Dyeing M/C: Air Instead of Water:
Fig: Newly developed Airflow® Lotus 200 dyeing machine.
Airflow was the key element of the technology, as air is an ideal transport medium. The
replacement of dye liquor with air as a method of transporting piece goods in jet-dyeing
machines was a big step toward reducing water and chemicals consumption. Compared to
the jet system in which the nozzles are filled with liquor, nozzle pressure is negligible, thus
offering optimum protection of sensitive textile surfaces. At the same time, the use of the mass
flow principle provides a major improvement in fabric hank laying, thus preventing creasing.
The main advantages are as follows
Ø unlimited flexibility with regard to all fiber – except pure wool – and fabric weight
classes
between 30 and 800 grams per square meter, as well as all standard market
dyestuffs;
Ø the lowest liquor ratio on the market: approximately 1:2 for man-made fibers and
1:3 to 1:4 for
natural fibers, depending on the article and structure;
Ø energy savings of up to 40 percent, thanks to a frequency converter, and the use of
air as a
transport medium, while all other systems need water;
Ø a reduction in the overall process time of approximately 25 percent; and
Ø lowest water/wastewater levels.
14.16.1 Cold Pad Batch Dyeing:
For vertical knitted fabric operations there is a renewed interest in reactive
dye application by cold pad batch application due to the lower consumption of water and
reduced effluent loading, with a claimed reduction in variable costs of between 15 and 30%.
Advantages of CPB
Compared to other reactive dyeing methods, such as jet dyeing, CPB offers several benefits:
• Reduced water consumption (more so if counter-flow washing ranges are used)
• Reduced energy consumption, as it is done at room temperature
• higher percentage of dye fixation
• No salt used – resulting in easy dye wash off and no salt being present in the effluent
• Pre-dye checks can be carried out ensuring more fabric is dyed correctly
• Productivity – one CPD machine can dye more fabric than a jet machine
• Better suited to stretch fabrics and knits because it is easier to manage tension control in a
small machine
• Fabrics are smoother so no need to bio polish
• Fabrics are stronger than bio polished equivalent
14.16.2 Digital Printing Mc:
14.16.2.1 Mimaki USA TX300P-1800B
Suwanee, Ga.-based Mimaki USA introduced the 74-inch-wide TX300P-1800B direct-to-textile
printer designed for sample runs or short-run pieces. The printer features an advanced belt
transport and conveyor system to help feed stretchy and thin fabrics in a stable
manner.According to Mimaki, new print heads with a high gap setting allow printing on thick or
thin substrates, dimensionally unstable fabrics, woven substrates or substrates with raised fiber
surfaces while maintaining accurate ink droplet placement. The company offers five types of ink
that are optimized for the TX300P-1800B — Sb420 for direct-to-fabric sublimation, Ac400 acid
dyes, Rc400 reactive dyes, Tp400 textile pigments and Dd400 disperse dyes. In addition, the
printer features dual ink capability, which offers the user the option of printing on natural
materials using pigment inks, or printing on polyester fabric using sublimation inks, using one
machine.
14.16.2.2 Tiger-1800B
Mimaki also announced the Tiger-1800B printing system now is available in the Americas. The
74.8-inch-wide machine is offered in a direct-to-textile or transfer dye sublimation model and is
suitable for large-scale production and high-volume textile runs. The direct-to-textile version
features 16 printheads in a staggered arrangement, while the transfer dye sublimation model
houses 8 printheads. According to the company, the Tiger-1800B is capable of printing at speeds
of up to 4,144 square feet per hour.
14.16.2.3 Kornit Digital
Israel-based Kornit Digital has launched a new HD printing technology for its Avalanche direct-
to-garment printing systems. The HD6, the successor of the Avalanche Hexa, features Kornit’s
HD print engine, NeoPigment™ Rapid Ink, as well as six color channels plus white for a wider
color gamut.The HDK, which is a HD version of the Avalanche 1000, has four color channels
plus white. Kornit reports that the machines deliver a significant drop in cost-per-print via
reductions in ink consumption of up to 46 percent compared to previous recirculated and non-
recirculated ink technologies.
Kornit Digital Machine
14.16.3 Washing Mc
14.16.3.1 Tonello UP WASHING M/C
After NoStone®, ECOfree, and Core, denim washing has reached a crucial turning point with
UP. UP patented technology reduces the liquor ratio to unparalleled levels, saving water and
energy and making water filling and draining faster. UP is a revolutionary innovation applicable
to all existing Tonello machines, including the least recent.UP, the latest Tonello innovation,
radically changes garment washing: it dramatically reduces the amount of water required and
brings the liquor ratio down to unparalleled levels. A continuous, regular flow of water is
constantly injected into the machine, then recovered and recirculated. Water saving now goes
hand in hand with significantly reduced energy consumption and faster water filling and
draining. All this obviously translates into lower costs. The combination with other Tonello
technologies, like ECOfree for ozone washing and NoStone® for stoneless stone-wash effects,
further reduces costs and carbon footprint.
14.16.3.2 TonelloG1 LW2 / MW2 washing M/C
An innovative and flexible range sold all over the world. The principal innovation is a reduction
in size and water consumption. Adapted to carry out any type of wash and a variety of garment
finishings. Equipped with a low-speed extractor (LW2) or a medium-speed extractor (MW2).
They are particularly well-suited for the treatment of jeans, and are equipped with a basket with
special beaters that speed up the process while at the same time guaranteeing uniform results
every time. G1 LW2 / MW2 machines are fitted as standard with a B&R control system, a latest-
generation microprocessor, as well as a touch screen. Tonello software optimises the functions of
each machine, allowing the user to store a large number of automated programs. Recipes can be
easily transferred from one machine using a USB drive, and a simple network connection
enables control from a PC with the Tonello supervision system as well as interfacing with third-
party management systems.
14.16.3.3 Tonello G1 HD1 - HJ1Dyeing M/c
Automatic garment dyeing machines. These machines, fine-tuned and patented by Tonello, work
with an open pocket and high-speed system. Equipped with a high-speed extractor. The series is
equipped with a colour kitchen that enables the best possible introduction of dyestuffs and
products thus guaranteeing high quality and consistent dyeing. They can also be equipped with
the JET system (Models HJ1) which considerably reduces the liquor ratio (LR 3:1). G1 HD1-
HJ1 machines are fitted as standard with a B&R control system, a latest-generation
microprocessor, as well as a touch screen. Tonello software optimizes the functions of each
machine, allowing the user to store a large number of automated programs. Recipes can be easily
transferred from one machine using a USB drive, and a simple network connection enables
control from a PC with the Tonello supervision system as well as interfacing with third-party
management systems. Models HD1 are available also in the Steam Pocket version.
Tonello G1 HD1 - HJ1Dyeing M/c
14.16.3.4 Jeanologia E-FLOW Washing M/C
e-Flow technology is the sustainable textile solution to transfer chemicals onto garments made of
any fabric. Conventionally water is used as the carrier and, at the end of every cycle, that water,
still brimming with chemical products, goes to waste.Jeanologia’s disruptive solution has been to
create a new system in which air from the atmosphere is transformed into nanobubbles where
water and just the right quantity of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the
nanobubble skin. They become the carriers of the chemical products and transmit them
homogeneously onto the garment.e-Flow technology can accomplish a considerable number of
finishing effects with the highest quality, a minimal amount of water and zero discharge. This is
why e-Flow technology is the only one certified as ecological by an independent laboratory.
Jeanologia
14.16.4 E-FLOW Washing M/C
14.16.4.1 Tonello SPRAYING & BRUSHING BOOTH
Manual brushing and spraying booths. They can have from 1 up to 6 mannequins and are
available in 2 models: the dry type with filter panels that can easily be removed for cleaning and
replacement, and the ‘water curtain’ type. This system comprises of a suction booth with the
accessories necessary for manual spraying and brushing. Depending on the model selected and
the size, both models can be equipped with 1 or more centrifugal extractor fans, differential
pressure switches to signal filter clogging, lighting and electric board.
14.16.4.2 Jeanologia Flexi Pro laser M/C
Flexi Pro belongs to the Pro generation, the new generation of laser that enables more
productivity, efficiency and an improvement in design management.
Flexi Pro is the most efficient and accurate textile laser system on the market designed for large
productions. This laser marking machine is capable of working with all kinds of garments
because it is equipped with a CMT and mannequin.
Jeanologia Flexi Pro laser M/C
Beside these there are different types of machine, which are used in garments washing plant, are
mentioned in the below-
� Sample washing machine,
� Side loading washing machine,
� Front loading washing machine,
� Hydro extractor machine,
� Steam dryer,
� Gas dryer,
� Chemical mixing machine,
� Industrial woven (Gas),
� Industrial woven (Electric),
� Boiler,
� Grinding machine,
� Tagging machine,
� Steam chamber for crinkle,
� Effluent treatment plant (E.T.P),
� Generator,
� Sand blasting gun,
� Sand blasting chamber,
� Spray gun,
� Spray dummy,
� Screw compressor,
� Laser draw.
� Submersible pump,
Some of those are discussed below-
14.16.4.3 Front Loading Washing Machine
The machine which can be loaded from front side is called front loading machine. This is a
computerized machine and also a modern washing machine. This machine is automatically
controlled. It has also good operating system. Dyeing facilities are also good. This machine also
has some disadvantages like rpm problem, not user friendly compared with belly machine,
bleaching process is very critical, parts are not available etc.
14.16.4.4 Ozone Machine: After washing this machine is used to change the color of garments. This machine is also used
for washing purpose. Sustainable washing can be done with this machine. No water treatment is
required as there is no water consumption. It is considered that, in the near future this machine
will be more popular. This machine is incorporated for removing back stain, to make light shade
without using chemicals and for cleaning the surface of tinted garments.
14.16.4.5 Steam Dryer: In this dryer steam is converted to heat by using a heat exchanger. Then the heat is applied on the
garments and dried. The name of heat exchanger is condenser. Condenser converted the steam to
heat.
14.16.4.6 Hand Sand Machine: Actually, it is not a machine, it is a dummy. This machine contains one balloon, sand, and some
pneumatic signals. Garments are put on dummy and then give air pressure and the process have
done. We have to give proper air pressure; otherwise crease mark will come out at the time of
hand sanding.
14.16.4.7 Normal Crinkle Machine: To squeeze the garments, this machine is used. At first we have to apply resin on specific area of
garments and then squeeze the garments of that specific area at high temperature for a specific
period of time. This type of crinkle is made for crimping after wash.
14.16.4.8 3-D Crinkle machine: This is the machine which is used for 3d crinkle. This crinkle slightly different from normal
crinkle, one is two dimension and another is three dimension. This machine has some patterns
which are put inside the garments and is heated at oven. Before putting the garments into the
oven, we have to use resins at specific place. At first the resin is sprayed at the specific area of
the garments and then put into the handle of the machine and making 3d crinkle as per required,
after making 3d crinkle sent to oven for curing for pretreatment reaction.
14.16.4.9 Laser machine: This machine is used for whisker by burning the garments. This process is done by light emitting
system. First time have to make a design for whisker by using Photoshop and Illustrator and then
it will impose on garments after selecting the intensity of burn.
14.16.4.10 Pen Grinding Machine: This machine is used to destroy the garments. This machine is operated by pneumatic signals or
electric signals. One stone is attached with this machine at the front side. When this stone moves
with high speed on the specific area of garments it damages that specific area.
14.16.4.11 Pressing Machine: Pressing machine is used for pressing the garments by heat and it makes permanent palette. In
this machine we use steam as heat. First we have to press the garments by using steam to
produce heat. Then the fabric reacts with resin.
14.16.4.12 Whisker pattern: Whisker pattern is a kind of machine by which we can do whisker. This pattern is made by
rubber sheets and art paper or only rubber sheets. After making the patterns put inside the
garments and then scrap with sand paper.
14.16.4.13 Grinding machine: This machine is used to grind the edges of garments. This has two wheels or more than two.
These wheels move at a high speed by an electric motor. The garments edges come in contact
with the wheels and become slightly damaged.
Reference:
1. Eco Fashion by Sass Brown (2010)
2. The Sustainable Fashion Handbook by Sandy Black (2012)
Case Study
Find out the advantages of Sustainable textile machineries comparing to conventional
machineries.
Assignment
Application of sustainable machineries in garments washing industry.
Discussion topic Is sustainable fashion is a myth
Video
1. International Eco Fashion Show in Budapest, 9th April
2019https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuqewSGS87k
2. Ethical Fashion Show Berlin July 2017 - Ethical Fashion
onStagehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXphcY6cn9Q
3. Unique Dress Design made From Recycled Materials
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnukLbmyrFw
4. Open end spinning machine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSAx7HpLe1c
5. Auto pocket attaching machine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxqOxrybAd0
