Motor 3054#2

Camshaft Gear - Remove and Install

SMCS - 1210-010-GE

Table 1

Required Tools

Tool Part Number Part Name Qty

A 1P-0510 Driver Group 1

Start By:

Remove the fan. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fan - Remove and Install".

Remove the front cover. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Front Cover - Remove".

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T

Illustration 1 g00541128

Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks on the crankshaft gear, the camshaft gear, and the fuel injection pump gear

are aligned, as shown.

Note: The timing marks on the idler gear may not be aligned. This is caused by the difference in the speed of the rotation

of the idler gear.

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Remove bolt (1) and the washer from the camshaft gear (2) .

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Install Tooling (A) and remove camshaft gear.

Note: Do not lose the key from the camshaft gear.

Inspect the camshaft gear for wear and damage. Replace the gear, if necessary.

Installation Procedure

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Install camshaft gear (2) in the front housing.

Note: When you install the camshaft gear, ensure that the teeth that have the timing marks are facing toward the front.

Also, ensure that the key is aligned properly in the keyway. If necessary, tap the gear with a soft hammer in order to seat

the key in the keyway.

If necessary, remove the idler gear in order to align the gear teeth correctly.

Install the washer and bolt (1) on the camshaft gear. Tighten bolt (1) to a torque of 78 N�m (58 lb ft).

Note: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft gear, the crankshaft gear, and the fuel injection pump gear are

aligned.

If a new camshaft gear is used, check the backlash of the camshaft gear. The minimum backlash for a new gear is 0.08

mm (0.003 inch).

End By:

Install the front cover. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Front Cover - Install".

Install the fan. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fan - Remove and Install".

Camshaft - Remove and Install

SMCS - 1210-010

Removal Procedure

Start By:

Remove the rocker shaft and the pushrods. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Rocker Shaft and Pushrods - Remove".

Remove the fuel transfer pump. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Transfer Pump - Remove".

Remove the front housing. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Housing (Front) - Remove".

Remove the camshaft gear. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Camshaft Gear - Remove and Install".

NOTICE

Keep all parts clean from contaminants.

Contaminants may cause rapid wear and shortened component life.

NOTICE

Care must be taken to ensure that fluids are contained during performance of inspection, maintenance, testing, adjusting

and repair of the product. Be prepared to collect the fluid with suitable containers before opening any compartment or

disassembling any component containing fluids.

Refer to Special Publication, NENG2500, "Caterpillar Tools and Shop Products Guide" for tools and supplies suitable to

collect and contain fluids on Caterpillar products.

Dispose of all fluids according to local regulations and mandates.

Turn the engine upside-down so the valve lifters are held in a position away from the camshaft.

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Remove thrust washer (1). Make a note of the location of the hollow dowel (X) for installation purposes.

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NOTICE

Do not damage the lobes or the bearings when the camshaft is removed or installed.

Carefully remove camshaft (2) from the engine.


NOTICE



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NOTICE

Do not damage the lobes or the bearings when the camshaft is removed or installed.

Note: Ensure that camshaft (2) is clean. Lubricate camshaft (2) with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Carefully install camshaft (2) in the engine.

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Put thrust washer (1) in position. Make sure that thrust washer (1) is aligned with hollow dowel (X) .

End By:

Install the camshaft gear. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Camshaft Gear - Remove and Install".

Install the front housing. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Housing (Front) - Install".

Install the fuel transfer pump. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Transfer Pump - Install".

Install the rocker shaft and the pushrods. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Rocker Shaft and Pushrods - Install".

Lifter Group - Remove and Install

SMCS - 1209-010

Table 1

Required Tools

Tool Part Number Part Description Qty

A 1U-7262 Telescoping Magnet 1

Start By:

Remove the camshaft. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Camshaft - Remove and Install".

NOTICE



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Use Tooling (A) to remove lifters (1) .

Note: Ensure that the lifters are marked with the appropriate cylinder number for installation purposes.

Table 2

Required Tools


A 1U-7262 Telescoping Magnet 1

NOTICE



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Use Tooling (A) to install lifters (1) .

Note: Ensure that the lifters are seated correctly and that the lifters are in the correct cylinders.

End By: Install the camshaft. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Camshaft - Remove and Install".

Cylinder Head - Install

SMCS - 1100-012

Table 1

Required Tools


A 9U-6238 Guide Bolt 2

B 8T-3052 Degree Wheel 1

Thoroughly clean the top of the cylinder block and the bottom of the cylinder head. Ensure that there is no debris in the

cylinder bores.

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Place cylinder head gasket (3) on dowels (4) on top of the cylinder block. The cylinder head gasket (3) is stamped "FRONT

TOP". Do not use any sealant or compound on the cylinder head gasket.

Install Tool (A) in positions 15 and 20 in the cylinder block. Refer to Illustration 4.

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Typical example

Attach a suitable lifting device to cylinder head (2) .

Place cylinder head (2) on the cylinder block. Ensure that the cylinder head is positioned on dowels (4) and that cylinder

head gasket (3) is positioned correctly.

Remove Tool (A) .

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Typical example

Lubricate cylinder head bolts (1) with clean engine oil.

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Gradually tighten all of the bolts (1 through 22) in a numerical sequence to a torque of 110 N�m (80 lb ft).

Tighten all of the bolts (1 through 22) again in a numerical sequence to a torque of 110 N�m (80 lb ft).

Place an index mark on the bolts and use Tool (B) in order to further tighten the bolts. Refer to illustration 4.

Turn the short bolts that are marked with an "S" for an additional 150 degrees (2.5 flats).

Turn the medium length bolts that are marked with an "M" for an additional 180 degrees (3.0 flats).

Turn the long bolts that are marked with an "L" for an additional 210 degrees (3.5 flats).

End By:

Install the rocker shaft assembly. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Rocker Arm and Shaft - Install".

Install the water outlet manifold. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Water Outlet Manifold - Install".

Install the fuel filter base. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Filter Base - Remove and Install".

Install the fuel injection nozzles. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Injection Nozzles - Install".

Install the exhaust manifold. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Exhaust Manifold - Remove and Install".

Install the inlet manifold. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Air inlet Manifold -Install".

Fill the coolant system. If the engine uses Extended Life Coolant (ELC), refer to Operation and Maintenance Manual,

"Cooling System Coolant (ELC) - Change". If the engine uses Diesel Engine Antifreeze/Coolant (DEAC), refer to Operation

and Maintenance Manual, "Cooling System Coolant (DEAC) - Change".

Connect the electrical connections at the battery.

Cylinder Head - Remove

SMCS - 1100-011

Removal Procedure

Start By:

Disconnect the electrical connections at the battery.

Drain the coolant system. If the engine uses Diesel Engine Antifreeze/Coolant (DEAC), refer to Operation and Maintenance

Manual, "Cooling System Coolant (DEAC) - Change". If the engine uses Extended Life Coolant (ELC), refer to Operation

and Maintenance Manual, "Cooling System Coolant (ELC) - Change".

Remove the air inlet manifold. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Air Inlet Manifold - Remove".

Remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Exhaust Manifold - Remove and Install".

Remove the fuel injection nozzles. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Injection Nozzles - Remove".

Remove the fuel filter base. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Fuel Filter Base - Remove and Install".

Remove the water outlet manifold. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Water Outlet Manifold - Remove".

Remove the rocker shaft assembly and the pushrods. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Rocker Arm and Shaft -

Remove".

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Typical example

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Gradually loosen 22 cylinder head bolts (1) in the reverse order that is shown in Illustration 2. This will help prevent

distortion of the cylinder head.

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Typical example

Attach a suitable lifting device to cylinder head (2). Carefully lift cylinder head (2) off the engine block. The weight of the

cylinder head is 41 kg (90 lb).

NOTICE

Place the cylinder head on a surface that will not scratch the face of the cylinder head.

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Remove cylinder head gasket (3) .

Note the location of dowels (4) on each end of the cylinder block. Dowels (4) hold cylinder head gasket (3) in place while

cylinder head (2) is installed.

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Align straight edge (7) with bolt (6) in order to check for distortion. If there is a visible reduction in the diameter of thread

(8) that has not been in engagement with the cylinder block, the bolts must be replaced.

Rocker Shaft and Pushrod - Install

SMCS - 1102-012; 1208-012


NOTICE



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Typical example

Install pushrods (4) .

Note: Ensure that the pushrods are installed in the original location and that the pushrods are seated in the valve lifters

correctly.

Install a new oil seal in the oil supply hole in the cylinder head.

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Typical example

Put rocker shaft assembly (3) in position on the cylinder head. Make sure that the connection for the oil supply is installed

correctly into the oil seal.

Note: Ensure that the adjustment screws are properly seated in the ends of pushrods (4) .

Note: It may be necessary to loosen the adjustment screws on each rocker arm. This will help prevent a bent valve or a

bent pushrod during the installation of the rocker shaft.

Lubricate nuts (1) and bolt (2) with clean engine oil.

Install nuts (1) and bolt (2) .

Alternately tighten the nuts and the bolt. Start from the center and work toward the outside. Tighten the nuts and the bolt

on an aluminum bracket to a torque of 40 N�m (30 lb ft). Tighten the nuts and the bolt on a cast iron or a steel bracket to

a torque of 75 N�m (55 lb ft).

Adjust the inlet valve lash to 0.20 mm (0.008 inch) and adjust the exhaust valve lash to 0.45 mm (0.018 inch). Refer to

Testing and Adjusting, "Air Inlet and Exhaust System" for more information on adjusting the valve lash.

End By: Install the valve mechanism cover. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Valve Mechanism Cover - Remove and

Install".

Rocker Shaft - Assemble

SMCS - 1102-016

Assembly Procedure

Lubricate all of the components with clean engine oil.

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(1) Retaining ring

(2) Washer on the end of the rocker shaft

(3) Rocker arm assembly

(4) Rocker shaft bracket

(5) Spring on the rocker shaft

(6) Washer

(7) Rocker shaft

(8) Bolt

(9) Oil supply connection

(10) Rocker arm bushing

Install oil supply connection (9) and bolt (8) on rocker shaft (7) .

Note: Ensure that the bolt and the connection are correctly positioned on the rocker shaft.

Note: Ensure that all of the oil holes in the rocker shaft and in the rocker arms are not plugged before you begin the

assembly procedure.

Install rocker arm bushing (10) in rocker arm assembly (3) with a suitable press. Ream the bushing to a clearance of 0.06

± 0.03 mm (0.0024 ± 0.0012 inch), if necessary.

Install each of the components in the correct order onto rocker shaft (7). See Illustration 1.

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Install retaining ring (1).

End By: Install the rocker shaft assembly. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Rocker Shaft and Pushrod - Install".

Rocker Shaft - Disassemble

SMCS - 1102-015

Table 1

Required Tools


A 1P-0510 Driver Group 1

Start By:

Remove the rocker shaft assembly. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Rocker Shaft and Pushrod - Remove".

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Use a screwdriver or a similar tool to remove retaining ring (1) from both ends of the rocker shaft assembly.

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(1) Retaining ring

(2) Washer on the end of the rocker shaft

(3) Rocker arm assembly

(4) Rocker shaft bracket

(5) Spring on the rocker shaft

(6) Washer

(7) Rocker shaft

(8) Bolt

(9) Oil supply connection

(10) Rocker arm bushing

Remove the rocker arms and the rocker shaft brackets from the rocker shaft assembly.

Note: Place an identification mark on each of the components for the proper order for installation.

Check the clearance between rocker arm assembly (3) and rocker shaft (7). Replace rocker arm bushing (10) if the

clearance is larger than 0.13 mm (0.005 inch). Use Tool (A) and a suitable press in order to remove rocker arm bushing

(10) from rocker arm assembly (3), if necessary.

Remove rocker shaft bracket (4) from rocker shaft (7) .

Remove springs (5), washer (6), bolt (8) and oil supply connection (9) from rocker shaft (7) .

Water Outlet Manifold - Install

SMCS - 1362-012


NOTICE



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Typical example

Inspect the condition of the gasket. Replace the gasket, if necessary.

Put water outlet manifold (5) and the gasket in position on the engine.

Install bolts (4) that secure water outlet manifold (5) to the engine.

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Typical example

Connect hose (3) and tighten clamp (2) .

Install clamp (1) for the boost line.

Install the upper radiator hose and fill the cooling system with coolant to the correct level. Refer to the Operation and

Maintenance Manual for the correct procedure.

Water Outlet Manifold - Remove

SMCS - 1362-011

Removal Procedure

NOTICE



NOTICE







Drain the coolant from the cooling system into a suitable container for storage or disposal.

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Typical example

Remove clamp (1) for the boost line.

Loosen clamp (2) and disconnect hose (3) .

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Typical example

Remove all bolts (4) that hold water outlet manifold (5) in position.

Remove water outlet manifold (5) and the gasket.

Water Temperature Regulator - Remove and Install

SMCS - 1355-010

Removal Procedure

NOTICE



NOTICE








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Typical example of Type 1 and 9RM engines

Note: For a complete description of Type 1 and Type 2 engines, refer to the Disassembly and Assembly, "Engine Design"

topic.

Remove six bolts (1) that hold cover (2) and bracket (3) in position.

Note: Type 2 engines and 7BJ engines have four mounting bolts (1) that hold cover (2) in position.

Remove bracket (3) and cover (2) from the water temperature regulator housing.

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Remove water temperature regulator (4) and the gasket from water temperature regulator housing (5) .

Note: Type 1 and 9RM engines may have two water temperature regulators for some engine ratings. Type 2 and 7BJ

engines will have one water temperature regulator for all engine ratings.

Note: Refer to the Testing and Adjusting Module for the correct procedure on testing the water temperature regulator.


NOTICE



Inspect the condition of the gasket. Replace the gasket, if necessary.

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topic.

Note: Type 1 and 9RM engines may have two water temperature regulators for some engine ratings. Type 2 and 7BJ

engines will have one water temperature regulator for all engine ratings.

Install water temperature regulator (4) and the gasket into housing (5) .

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Install bracket (3) and cover (2) on the water temperature regulator housing.

Install six bolts (1) that fasten cover (2) and bracket (3) to the water temperature regulator housing.

Note: Type 2 engines and 7BJ engines have four mounting bolts (1) for the cover.

Install the upper radiator hose and fill the radiator to the correct level with coolant.

Note: Refer to the Operation and Maintenance Manual for the correct procedure.

Water Pump - Install

SMCS - 1361-012


NOTICE



Inspect the condition of the gasket. Replace the gaskets, if necessary.

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Typical example

Install the gasket and water pump (3) to the front housing.

Install eight bolts (1) and install two nuts (2) that fasten the water pump (3) to the front housing.

Fill the cooling system. If the engine uses diesel engine antifreeze/coolant, refer to Operation and Maintenance Manual,

"Cooling System Coolant (DEAC) - Change". If the engine uses extended life coolant, refer to Operation and Maintenance

Manual, "Cooling System Coolant (ELC) - Change".

Water Pump - Assemble - Type 1 Engines and 9RM Engines

SMCS - 1361-016

Assembly Procedure


topic.

NOTICE



Note: The water pump for Type 2 Engines and 7BJ Engines is not serviceable. Contact your Caterpillar dealer for more

replacement information.

Clean the inside of the pump body. Ensure that the bearing bore and the counterbore for the water seal are particularly

clean.

Apply 4C-9507 Retaining Compound to the outer surface of the bearing. Keep the compound away from the ends of the

bearing.

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Support the gear end of the water pump body.

Place the bearing and shaft (6) square in the pump body. Ensure that the shortest end of shaft (6) is in housing (9) .

Use a suitable press and a suitable adapter that will apply force to the bearing. The adapter should not apply force to the

shaft. Press the bearing onto the shaft until the end of the bearing is level with the bottom of the counterbore for the

water seal.

Note: Remove the excess compound from the end of the bearing.

Install seal (7) .

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NOTICE

Ensure that the water seal is not contaminated by oil or grease. Hold the seal only by the edge of the flange. Do not

damage the ring of green sealant that is applied to the body of the water seal behind the flange.

Hold water seal (5) by the edge of the flange. Push the seal onto shaft (6) until the seal is against the chamfer of the

counterbore. Only apply force to the outer flange of the seal.

Note: Ensure that the wide end of the seal is toward the bearing and that the seal is square with the counterbore.

Continue to apply force and hold water seal (5) for ten seconds. This ensures that the water seal will remain in place.

Hold the water pump with the gear end of the shaft on a suitable support. Use a flat bar in order to press impeller (8)

onto shaft (6) to a depth of 8.30 ± 0.20 mm (.320 ± .010 inch). After installation, ensure that the impeller will turn

freely.

Note: Apply 4C-9507 Retaining Compound to impeller (8) if the original impeller is used. Remove excess compound after

assembly.

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Lubricate oil seal (3) with clean engine oil. Install oil seal (3) with the flat surface toward the bearing. Press oil seal (3)

into the body with a suitable adapter until the rear of the seal is level with the end of the pump.

Continue to apply force and hold oil seal (3) in position for ten seconds. This ensures that the seal will remain in place.

Press gear (4) onto shaft (6) to a depth of 1.60 ± 1.00 mm (.015 ± .005 inch) .

Note: Apply 4C-9507 Retaining Compound to gear (4) if the original gear is used. Remove excess compound after

assembly.

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Install a new gasket and cover (2) on the pump body.

Install six bolts (1). Tighten the bolts to a torque of 9 N�m (80 lb in).

End By: Install the water pump. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Water Pump - Install".

Water Pump - Disassemble - Type 1 Engines and 9RM Engines

SMCS - 1361-015

Table 1

Required Tools


A 7X-0290 Bolt 2

Start By:

Remove the water pump. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Water Pump - Remove".


topic.

NOTICE



NOTICE







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Remove six bolts (1). Remove cover (2) and the gasket.

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Remove O-ring seal (3) .

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Install Tool (A). Remove gear (4) .

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Use a suitable lever in order to remove seal (5) .

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Use a suitable press in order to remove shaft (6), seal (7), and impeller (8) from housing (9) .

Note: The water pump for Type 2 Engines and 7BJ Engines is not serviceable. Contact your Caterpillar dealer for more

replacement information.

Water Pump - Remove

SMCS - 1361-011

Removal Procedure

NOTICE



NOTICE








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Typical example

Remove eight bolts (1) and two nuts (2) that fasten the water pump to the front housing.

Tap water pump (3) with a soft hammer in order to loosen water pump (3) .

Remove water pump (3) and the gasket.

Engine Oil Pump - Install

SMCS - 1304-012

NOTICE



NOTICE

If any of the parts on the engine oil pump are worn or damaged, the entire pump must be replaced.

Note: If the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap was removed, install the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap with the

engine oil pump. Tighten the bolts for the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap to a torque of 265 N�m (195 lb ft).

If the shaft for the idler gear on the engine oil pump was removed, remove the excess Loctite 603. Apply a new layer of

Loctite 603 to the bore in the main bearing cap and install the shaft.

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Fill engine oil pump (7) with clean engine oil. Install engine oil pump (7) on the engine.

Install three bolts (6). Tighten the bolts to a torque of 22 N�m (16 lb ft).

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Install idler gear (5) .

Use Tool (A) to install retaining ring (4) .

Note: After you install the engine oil pump and the idler gear, ensure that there is a minimum of 0.08 mm (.003 inch)

backlash between the gear on the engine oil pump and the idler gear.

Install the engine oil relief valve. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Engine Oil Relief Valve - Install".

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Install the strainer, suction pipe (3), and the gasket.

Install bolt (2). Tighten the bolt to a torque of 22 N�m (16 lb ft).

Install two bolts (1). Tighten the bolts to a torque of 22 N�m (16 lb ft).

End By: Install the front housing. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Housing (Front) - Install".

Engine Oil Pump - Remove

SMCS - 1304-011

Table 1

Required Tools


A 1P-1855 Retaining Ring Pliers 1

B 9U-6282 Torque Wrench Extension 1

Start By:

Remove the engine oil pan. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Engine Oil Pan - Remove and Install".

Remove the front housing. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Housing (Front) - Remove".

Note: The engine oil pump is mounted on the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap. The engine oil pump can be removed

without removing the front housing if the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap is removed. Use Tool (B) in order to remove

the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap. The engine oil pump is then removed from the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing cap.

NOTICE



NOTICE







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Remove two bolts (1) that fasten the strainer and suction pipe to the engine oil pump.

Remove bolt (2) that holds the strainer in position.

Remove the strainer, suction pipe (3), and the gasket from the engine.

Remove the engine oil relief valve. Refer to the Disassembly and Assembly Module, "Engine Oil Relief Valve - Remove".

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Use Tool (A) to remove retaining ring (4) from the idler gear shaft.

Remove idler gear (5) from the idler gear shaft. Inspect the idler gear shaft for wear or damage. If the idler gear shaft is

worn or damaged, use a new part for replacement. Use a suitable press to remove the idler gear shaft from the No. 1

main bearing cap.

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Remove three bolts (6) from the No. 1 main bearing cap.

Remove engine oil pump (7) from the engine.

Engine Oil Relief Valve - Remove and Install

SMCS - 1315-010

Removal Procedure

Start By:

Remove the engine oil pan. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Engine Oil Pan - Remove".

NOTICE



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Remove two bolts (1) that fasten the engine oil relief valve to the engine oil pump.

Remove bolt (3) that holds engine oil relief valve (4) in position.

Remove engine oil relief valve (4) and the gasket from the engine. Inspect the condition of the gasket. Replace the

gasket, if necessary.

Disconnect oil tube (2) and remove the O-ring seals from the oil tube.


NOTICE



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Install new O-ring seals on oil tube (2) and connect oil tube (2) to the engine oil pump.

Put the gasket in position and install engine oil relief valve (4) on the engine.

Install bolt (3) that holds engine oil relief valve (4) in position. Tighten bolt (3) to a torque of 44 N�m (33 lb ft).

Install two bolts (1) that fasten the engine oil relief valve to the engine oil pump.

End By: Install the engine oil pan. Refer to Disassembly and Assembly, "Engine Oil Pan - Install".

Engine Oil Filter Base - Install

SMCS - 1306-012


NOTICE



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Typical example

Install engine oil filter base (4) on the engine block.

Place the hose clamp in position and install nut (3) .

Install three bolts (2) .

Connect two hoses and tighten two hose clamps (1) .

Alternator

SMCS - 1405-015; 1405-016

Disassemble Alternator

NOTE: The disassembly and assembly that follows is of a K1, 12V alternator (7T2876). The other alternators are similar.

START BY:

a. remove alternator

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1. Remove the two screws and regulator (1).

2. Disconnect capacitor lead (2) from the back of the alternator. Remove the screw and capacitor (3).

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3. Remove the pulley nut, washer, pulley (4), fan (5) and the key from the rotor shaft.

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4. Mark the front and rear frame assemblies for proper assembly. Remove four screws (6) (one has a nut on it on the back

of the alternator).

5. Separate the front frame and rotor assembly from the rear frame and stator assembly. Watch for the wave washer, at

the back of the rear frame assembly, to fall out.

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6. Remove four screws (7) and rotor (8) from the front frame.

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7. Remove spacer (10) and front bearing (11), with a suitable puller. Remove bearing cover (9) from the rotor.

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8. Remove rear bearing (12) with a suitable puller. Unsolder both rotor winding leads from slip ring (13). Remove slip ring

(13) with a suitable puller.

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9. Remove terminal nuts (14), (15) and (16). Remove all of the washers and insulators.

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10. Remove three screws (17). Remove the stator and rectifier assembly from the rear frame. Remove the remaining

insulators from the terminal studs.

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11. Unsolder the three stator leads and separate rectifier (18) from stator (19).

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K1 Alternator

(1) Regulator. (4) Pulley. (5) Fan. (6) Screws. (8) Rotor. (9) Bearing cover. (11) Front bearing. (12) Rear bearing. (13) Slip

ring. (18) Rectifier. (19) Stator.

Assemble Alternator

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1. Connect and solder stator (19) leads to the positive (+) diodes of rectifier (18).

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2. Position the insulators on the rectifier terminal studs. Position rectifier (18) and stator (19) into the rear frame, and

install the three screws. Install the terminal insulators, washers and nuts. Position wave washer (20) into the bearing bore

of the rear frame.

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3. Install slip ring (13) on the rotor. Connect and solder the rotor leads to the slip ring. Install rear bearing (12).

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4. Install bearing cover (9), front bearing (11), and spacer (10) on the rotor.

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5. Install rotor (8) and the four screws into the front frame.

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6. Assemble front frame and rotor assembly (22) into rear frame and stator assembly (21). Make sure the wave washer is

in the rear frame bearing bore. Align the front and rear frame marks made at disassembly for correct assembly. Install the

four screws.

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7. Install the key, fan (5), pulley (4), washer and pulley nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of:

3E7295, 9X0341 ... 70 ± 5 N�m (50 ± 4 lb ft)

8C5535, 7T2876, 2Y4212, 2Y8310 ... 35 ± 10 N�m (25 ± 7 lb ft)

9W3043 ... 50 ± 5 N�m (37 ± 4 lb ft).

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8. Install the capacitor and connect capacitor lead (2) to the back of the alternator.

9. Install regulator (1).

END BY:

a. install alternator

Alternator

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8C5535, 7T2876, 2Y4212 And 2Y8310 Alternators Sectional View

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8C5535, 7T2876, 2Y4212 And 2Y8310 Alternators End View

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8C5535, 7T2876, 2Y4212 And 2Y8310 Alternators Enclosed End View

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3E7295 And 9X0341 Alternators Enclosed End View

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9W3043 Alternator End View

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Testing And Adjusting

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting can be difficult. Following is a list of possible problems. To make a repair to a problem, make reference to

the probable cause.

This list of problems and probable causes will only give an indication of where a possible problem can be and what repairs

are needed. Sometimes more or other repair work is needed beyond the recommendations in the list. Remember that a

problem is not normally caused by one part, but by the relation of one part with other parts. This list cannot give all

possible problems and probable causes. The serviceman must find the problem and its source, then make the necessary

repairs.

Troubleshooting Problem List

1. Alternator Does Not Charge.

2. Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular.

3. Alternator Charges Too Much.

4. Alternator Is Noisy.

Troubleshooting Problems

Problem 1: Alternator Does Not Charge.

Probable Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:

Adjust the alternator drive belt.

2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley:

Check the key groove in the pulley for wear. If the groove is worn, install a new pulley. Tighten the pulley nut to the

correct torque. See Specifications.

3. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Are Defective:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Replace defective parts.

4. Rotor Field Winding Or Regulator Is Defective:

Install a new rotor or regulator assembly.

Problem 2: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular.

Probable Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:

Adjust the alternator drive belt.




3. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Defective:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Replace defective parts.

4. Regulator Is Defective:

Install a new regulator assembly.

5. Rectifier Is Defective:

Install a new rectifier.

6. Brushes Are Worn Or Dirty:

Install new brushes.

Problem 3: Alternator Charges Too Much.

Probable Cause:

1. Alternator Or Regulator Has Loose Connections:

Tighten all connections to the alternator or regulator.

2. Regulator Is Defective:

Install a new regulator assembly.

Problem 4: Alternator Is Noisy.

Probable Cause:

1. Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Defective:

Install a new drive belt for the alternator.




3. Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment:

Make an adjustment to put the drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.

4. Alternator Bearings Are Worn:

Install new bearings in the alternator.

Alternator Output Test

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Machine Test

1. Put the multimeter positive (+) lead on the B+ terminal of the alternator. Put the negative (-) lead on the negative (-)

terminal or frame of the alternator. Put the clamp-on ammeter around the positive output wire of the alternator.

2. Turn off all electrical accessories. With the fuel off, crank the engine for 30 seconds. Wait two minutes to let the starting

motor cool. If the system appears to operate at the specifications, crank the engine again for 30 seconds.

NOTE: Cranking the engine for 30 seconds partially discharges the batteries in order to do a charging test. If batteries are

already low in charge, skip this step. Jump-start engine or charge batteries as required.

3. Start the engine and run at full throttle.

NOTE: Full throttle approximates the required drive pulley speed of 5000 rpm.

4. Immediately check output current. When operating correctly, this initial charging current is equal to or greater than the

full output current shown below:

8C5535 ... 29A

7T2876 ... 55A

9W3043 ... 52A

2Y4212 ... 17A

2Y8310 ... 21A

3E7295 ... 55A

9X0341 ... 90A

5. The alternator output should stabilize within approximately 10 minutes at full throttle (possibly longer, depending upon

battery size, condition and alternator rating). When operating correctly, the alternator output voltage is:

12V System ... 14.0 ± 0.5V

24V System ... 27.5 ± 1.0V

If the alternator is NOT performing within specifications, see the Fault Condition and Possible Causes chart.

6. The charging current during this period should taper off to less than approximately 10 amps, depending again upon

battery and alternator capacities. If the charging current does NOT decrease as specified, see the Fault Conditions and

Possible Causes chart.

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7T2876 Alternator Charging Circuit

7. The K1/N1 alternators are self-excited at high speeds. For this reason, they are turned on by the battery, through the

ignition or key start switch, to start the charging process at low speed. They are turned on any time the ignition or key

start switch is either in the ON or START position. The charging circuit shown above is for the 7T2876 Alternator. If there

is low or no alternator output, check the circuit between the key start switch and the alternator for an open. Also check

the resistor and diode (if equipped). The resistance of the resistors should be as follows:

7T1183 (7T2876 Alternator) ... 22 ± 4 ohms

6T7864 (9W3043 Alternators) ... 39 ± 2 ohms

8. On lift trucks, check the alternator light to make sure its working properly. Also, if a machine is jump started because

the battery is too low, the alternator may not have any output. This is because the battery may be too low to send current

to the alternator. The alternator needs current to start the charging process.

Regulator Test

If the alternator does not have the correct output, the field can be grounded on the 8C5535 and 2Y4212 alternators. This

can be done on the machine to determine if the regulator is bad. Do the procedure that follows:

NOTE: The 7T2876, 9W3043, 2Y8310, 3E7295 and 9X0341 alternators do not have an external DF terminal. Therefore,

the field on these alternators cannot be turned on externally.

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Alternator

(1) Jumper wire. (2) D+ terminal. (3) DF terminal.

1. Repeat Steps 1-3 of Machine Test. Ground the field by connecting jumper wire (1) from D+ terminal (2) to DF terminal

(3) as shown. This calls for full alternator output.

2. If output is now within 10 amps of rated output, the regulator is bad and must be replaced.

3. If output is not within 10 amps of rated output, the alternator must be disassembled for component testing. See

Alternator Component Tests.

Bench Test

Put the alternator on an alternator test bench. The maximum current output and regulated voltage should be the same as

shown in the machine test.

Alternator Component Tests

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Regulator Test

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Test Circuit For Regulator Test (K1 Shown)

This test can be performed to determine an alternator or regulator malfunction. This test does not cover all of the failure

possibilities, but verifies a few common problems. See the Test Equipment Chart for the equipment needed for this test.

Alternator output voltage is regulated by controlling field coil current. The regulator senses output voltage. If the voltage

is low, the regulator allows field current flow and the voltage builds. When output voltage exceeds the upper limit, field

current is turned off. The output voltage of a properly functioning alternator and regulator is:

12V System ... 14.0 ± 0.5V

24V System ... 27.5 ± 1.0V

The voltage should not vary more than approximately 0.3V during this process. This test measures voltage when the

regulator turns field current on and off and determines if there is an open or short in the diode trio (exciter diodes), field

coil or regulator.

1. Connect variable power source (VPS) positive (+) lead to the alternator B+ and D+ terminals as shown. Connect VPS

negative (-) lead to the alternator B- terminal or frame ground.

2. Adjust the voltage of the VPS until ammeter (A) first indicates current draw. Measure voltage (V) and write this

measurement down as turn-on voltage. When correctly operating, the turn-on voltage is:

12V System ... 14.0 ± 0.5V

24V System ... 27.5 ± 1.0V

3. Ammeter (A) reads field current. When correctly operating, the field current is:. See Specifications for the K1, 24V

alternators.

3E7295, 9X0341 Alternators ... 5.1 to 5.7A at 14.0V

8C5535, 7T2876 Alternators ... 3.8 to 4.1A at 14.0V

9W3043 Alternators ... 2.8 to 3.1A at 27.5V

2Y4212 Alternators ... 1.3 to 1.5A at 27.5V

2Y8310 Alternators ... .8 to .9A at 27.5V

NOTE: Divide the voltage that first indicates field current by rotor field winding resistance as shown in specifications. This

will give the correct field current that should be seen on ammeter (A).

4. If ammeter (A) indication is zero amps, the rectifier or field coil or regulator are open. If ammeter (A) indication is too

high (see Step 2), the field coil may be shorted. The regulator is also bad if the turn-on voltage is not:

12V System ... 14.0 ± 0.5V

24V System ... 27.5 ± 1.0V

5. If the measurements in Steps 3 and 4 are correct, go to Step 6. If they are not correct, the alternator and/or regulator

are bad.

6. Adjust VPS to the turn-on voltage as measured in Step 2. Slowly increase the voltage until ammeter (A) indicates zero

amps. Write this voltage down as turn-off voltage.

7. The difference between the turn-off and turn-on voltages must be no more than 0.3V. A larger value indicates a

regulator malfunction. Also, ammeter (A) should drop sharply to zero amps. If not, the regulator is faulty.

8. If the alternator and regulator meet all test requirements and there is still a problem, do the additional component

tests that follow.

Capacitor Test

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Discharging Capacitor

(1) Capacitor mounting screw. (2) Capacitor lead.

1. Disconnect capacitor lead (2) from its terminal on the back of the alternator. Remove the plastic housing from lead (2)

that surrounds the clip.

2. Touch lead (2) to the capacitor mounting screw (1). This discharges the capacitor.

NOTE: Each time this test is done, the capacitor must be discharged.

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Capacitor Test

(1) Capacitor mounting screw. (2) Capacitor lead.

3. Put the multimeter on the 20M resistance (Ohms) scale. Connect one multimeter lead to capacitor lead (2). Touch the

other lead to capacitor mounting screw (1).

4. There should be a very low resistance for a short period of time. Then resistance should stabilize above 100 000 ohms

(meter reading 0.10 or greater).

5. If the reading is not correct, replace the capacitor.

Rotor Field Winding Tests

Rotor Field Winding Continuity Test

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Rotor Field Winding Continuity Test

(3) Rotor. (4) Slip ring.

1. Put the multimeter on the 200 ohm resistance (Ohms) scale. Touch the meter leads to each slip ring (4) on rotor (3) as

shown.

2. The resistance values should be as follows. See specifications for the K1, 24 V alternators.

3E7295, 9X0341 Alternators ... 2.47 to 2.75 ohms

8C5535, 7T2876 Alternators ... 3.4 to 3.7 ohms

9W3043 Alternators ... 9.0 to 9.9 ohms

2Y4212 Alternators ... 18 to 22 ohms

2Y8310 Alternators ... 14.4 to 17.6 ohms

3. If the resistance is not correct, the rotor is open or shorted and must be replaced.

Rotor Field Winding Ground Test

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Rotor Field Winding Ground Test

(3) Rotor. (4) Sip ring.

1. Put the multimeter on the 20M resistance (Ohms) scale. Touch the meter leads between each slip ring (4) and the rotor

shaft.

2. Both readings should be 100 000 ohms or greater (meter reading 0.10 or greater).

3. If the meter reading is low, the rotor is grounded and must be replaced.

Stator Tests

Stator Winding Continuity Test

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Stator Winding Continuity Test

(5) Stator. (6) Stator leads.

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1. Put the multimeter on the 200 ohm resistance (Ohms) scale. Connect the meter leads between each pair of stator leads

(6) of stator (5) for a total of three readings.

2. The resistance values should be as follows. See Specifications for the K1, 24V alternators.

3E7295, 8C5535, 7T2876

Alternators ... .14 to .15 ohms

9X0341 Alternators ... .55 to .56 ohms

9W3043 Alternators ... .20 to .22 ohms

2Y4212 Alternators ... .41 to .51 ohms

2Y8310 Alternators ... .34 to .42 ohms

3. If the resistance is not correct, the stator is open or shorted and must be replaced.

Stator Winding Ground Test

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Stator Winding Ground Test

(5) Stator. (6) Stator leads.

1. Put the multimeter on the 20M resistance (Ohms) scale. Connect one meter lead to each stator lead (6) and touch the

other meter lead to the stator frame.

2. The resistance value should be 100 000 ohms or greater (meter reading 0.10 or greater).

3. If the meter reading is low, the stator is grounded and must be replaced.

Rectifier Tests

Positive Diode Check

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Positive Diode Check

(7) Positive (+) diode.

1. Put the multimeter on the diode scale. Connect the meter leads between each positive (+) diode (7) and the B+ stud.

The positive diodes are black.

2. Note the meter reading and reverse the meter leads.

3. One reading should be OL and the other .4 to .9 volts. If both readings are OL or low (0 to .1 volts), the diode is open

or shorted and the rectifier must be replaced.

Negative Diode Check

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Negative Diode Check

(8) Negative (-) diode.

1. Put the multimeter on the diode scale. Connect the meter leads between each negative (-) diode (8) and the surface of

the rectifier that is not painted. The negative diodes are silver.


3. One reading should be OL and the other .4 to .9 volts. If both readings are OL or low (0 to .1 volts), the diode is open

or shorted and the rectifier must be replaced.

Exciter Diode Check

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Exciter Diode Check

(7) Positive (+) diode. (9) Exciter diodes connection.

1. Put the multimeter on the diode scale. Connect the meter leads between exciter diodes connection (9) and each

positive (+) diode (7) (three of them).


3. One reading should be OL and the other .4 to .9 volts. If both readings are OL or low (0 to .1 volts), the exciter diode is

open or shorted and the rectifier must be replaced.

Brush Tests

Brush Continuity Test

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Brush Continuity Test

(10) Positive (+) brush. (11) Terminal.

1. Put the multimeter on the 200 ohm resistance (Ohms) scale. Touch the meter leads between positive (+) brush (10)

and terminal (11).

2. The meter reading should be .1 to .3 ohms. If the resistance is not correct, the positive (+) brush is open or shorted

and the brushes must be replaced.

Brush Ground Test

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Brush Ground Test

(11) Terminal. (12) Negative (-) brush.

1. Put the multimeter on the 20M resistance (Ohms) scale. Touch the meter leads between negative (-) brush (12) and

terminal (11).

2. The meter reading should be 100 000 ohms or greater (meter reading 0.10 or greater). If the resistance is low, the

brush is grounded and the brushes must be replaced.

Brush Length Check

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Brush Length Check

(10) Brush. (X) Brush length.

1. Measure the length of brushes (10) on the longest side. Brush length (X) should be as follows.

New length:

K1, 24V (2Y4212) alternators ... 10.0 mm (.39 in)

K1, 24V (2Y8310) alternators ... 13.0 mm (.51 in)

K1, 12V and N1, 24V alternators ... 17.0 mm (.67 in)

Minimum length:

K1, 24V alternators ... 8.0 mm (.31 in)

K1, 12V and N1, 24V alternators ... 11.5 mm (.45 in)

2. If the brushes are worn near or below the minimum length, replace them.

Alternator - Disassemble

SMCS - 1405-015

Procedure

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(1) G3B Alternator Pulley Nut. (2) L3A Alternator Pulley Nut. (3) K3A Alternator Pulley Nut.

Remove the nut that secures the pulley to the rotating shaft. An impact wrench can be used to loosen the nut. Use a deep

well socket (six point). Do not use a twelve point socket.

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Alternator (55 Ampere) With Securing Screws (Front Cover) (4) and B Terminal (5) .

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Alternator (90 Ampere) With Securing Nuts (Rear Cover) (4) , B Terminal (5) , And Additional Fastener (6) .

Remove the three bolts (4) that attach the rear end cover to the alternator. Also remove the B terminal nut and plastic

shroud (5) . On 90 amp alternators, remove the screw (6) .

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Remove the two screws (7) that secure the brush holder. Note that the rubber seal that is covering the brush holder in

illustration 4 is for 90 amp alternators. The 55 amp alternator has a slightly different seal.

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Remove the three screws (8) that secure the IC regulator. The screws are different lengths, and the screws must be put

back in the same hole.

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Alternator (55 Ampere) With Wire Type Leads From Stator

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Alternator (90 Ampere) With Terminal Type Leads From Stator

On 55 ampere alternators, remove the four screws that are holding the stator leads. Use needle nose pliers to straighten

the stator leads. On 90 ampere alternators, remove the four screws that are attaching the terminal type leads to the

rectifier. Remove the rectifier.

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55 Amp Alternator

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90 Amp Alternator

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A Puller Is Used To Separate The Two Halves Of The Alternator.

A puller (14) is used to separate the two halves of the alternator. Use a puller with an end that is pointed. Do not use a

puller with a flat shaft end. Hook the arms of the puller around the inner portion of the case (13) . See illustration 10. Use

puller arms with thin, flat bottom hooks (15) .

Note: As the case comes apart, ensure that the washer between the rear bearing and the case of the alternator is

accounted for. The washer will be reused during reassembly of the alternator.

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Use a press to remove the rotor from the front case. Use blocking in order to ensure that the alternator and the press are

properly aligned. Ensure that the rotor does not fall to the floor as the rotor is pressed out of the case.

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If necessary, remove the front bearing (17) by removing the screws (18) and the retainer plate.

Alternator - Assemble

SMCS - 1405-016

Procedure

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If the front bearing (17) has been removed or replaced, install the bearing. Secure the bearing by attaching the retainer

plate with four screws (18) .

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Slide the rotor shaft into the front bearing.

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Slide the rear case of the alternator over the rear of the rotor shaft. Ensure that the washer (16) that is shown in

illustration 3 is in position (A) . Position (A) is between the rear bearing and the case of the alternator. Ensure that the

stator leads go through the proper slots in the rear case. The two halves of the case will probably not be able to be

pushed together. Initially, use hand pressure in order to press the case together.

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Insert the four screws or bolts (11) and tighten finger tight. Tighten each screw or bolt with a socket wrench. Tighten the

screws or bolts in a cross pattern until the two halves of the case are brought together. Push the rubber bushings (12) into

position over the stator leads on 90 amp alternators.

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Alternator (55 Ampere) With Wire Type Leads From Stator

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Alternator (90 Ampere) With Terminal Type Leads From Stator

Place the rectifier in position. On 55 ampere alternators, use needle nose pliers in order to bend the lead wire (9) into

position. A screw then secures the leads to the rectifier. On 90 ampere alternators, align the terminals of the rectifier with

the terminal type leads from the stator (10) . Use four screws to secure the two terminals together.


Place the voltage regulator in position and secure the regulator with screws (8) . Use screws that are the proper length,

which was noted during disassembly of the alternator.


Attach the brush to the voltage regulator by using two screws (7) . Push back the spring-loaded brushes as the brush

assembly slides over the rotor. Ensure that the rubber seal is in the proper position.

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Place the rear alternator cover in position and secure the cover with three screws (4) (55 amp alternators). Secure the

cover with three nuts on 90 amp alternators.

Slide the insulator (5) onto the B terminal and secure the insulator with a nut.

Date post:	27-Oct-2014
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Motor 3054#2

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