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Species and strains. Effects. Stone producing and fruiting. Cultivation Introduction SPECIES AND STRAINS 1. Psilocybe galindoi, A.K.A. Atlanta #7 (ATL#7) 'ATL 7 is as visual and 'spiritual' as any fungus I have ever eaten. If you are looking for a mind fuck, here's your fungus.' -Cervantes 2. Psilocybe mexicana, including strains "A", "B", and "Jalisco" A Jalisco Reported to have a notable lack of nausea as well as a 'cleaner' trip. This is described as 'your trip going where you want to go, not where the shrooms want it to go Stonesun’s favorite 3. Psilocybe tampanensis / Pollock (Philosopher’s Stone) are described as very cerebral highs, full of insight and mental exploration (the non-hallucinogenic kind). This sclerotium is responsible for the nickname of 'Philosophers Stones'. 4. Psilocibe Atlantis (Note, at one point some P. galindoi has been sold as P. Atlantis, some confusion surrounds this species. This is not the same species as ATL#7.) Clean trip, no nausea. Moderate body high, closed eye visuals quite powerful, open eye moderate. Cerebral high is quite intensive at times,not uncontrollable, but fairly strong. In the right mindset, I've had strong ego disassociation and some all-round mind-expanding perceptions. (Thanks Ego Questio!) STONE PRODUCING AND FRUITING Here's my experience on the matter (on a scale 1-10 10 being the best): o P. galindoi/ATL#7 stone production 7 fruit production 8 o P. mexicana/Jalisco stone production 2 fruit production 9 o P. mexicana/A
Transcript
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Species and strains. Effects. Stone producing and fruiting. Cultivation

Introduction

SPECIES AND STRAINS1. Psilocybe galindoi, A.K.A. Atlanta #7 (ATL#7)

'ATL 7 is as visual and 'spiritual' as any fungus I have ever eaten. If you are looking for a mind fuck, here's your fungus.' -Cervantes

2. Psilocybe mexicana, including strains "A", "B", and "Jalisco" A Jalisco Reported to have a notable lack of nausea as well as a 'cleaner' trip. This is described as 'your trip going

where you want to go, not where the shrooms want it to go Stonesun’s favorite

3. Psilocybe tampanensis / Pollock (Philosopher’s Stone) are described as very cerebral highs, full of insight and mental exploration (the non-hallucinogenic kind).

This sclerotium is responsible for the nickname of 'Philosophers Stones'.4. Psilocibe Atlantis (Note, at one point some P. galindoi has been sold as P. Atlantis, some confusion surrounds this species.

This is not the same species as ATL#7.) Clean trip, no nausea. Moderate body high, closed eye visuals quite powerful, open eye moderate. Cerebral

high is quite intensive at times,not uncontrollable, but fairly strong. In the right mindset, I've had strong ego disassociation and some all-round mind-expanding perceptions. (Thanks Ego Questio!)

STONE PRODUCING AND FRUITING Here's my experience on the matter (on a scale 1-10 10 being the best):

o P. galindoi/ATL#7 stone production 7 fruit production 8

o P. mexicana/Jalisco stone production 2 fruit production 9

o P. mexicana/A stone production 10 fruit production 1

o P. tampanensis stone production 5 fruit production 9

In other words if I'd want sclerotia only, I'd go with mex/A. If I want the best overall stone/fruit producer, gotta go with ATL#7. Tampanensis being my second choice.

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With the mex/Jalisco got very few stones but fruited beautifully.

MISCELANEOUS Ready six weeks from inoculation. The more you wait after inoculation, the more potent they are. Rot in 9-12 months. Require a thin casing layer and extra TLC(?) compared to P.Cubensis Shake after inoculation. Quart Jar = around 150g fresh.

CULTIVATIONComprehensive guide

Material and Pricing.

Jars around 20$ Rye is around 10$ Seigle: 10$, 5kg @ Coop d’Alentour. Drill Silicone or RTV (check dad’s tools and shit) RTV silicone. Synthetic Filter discs. Online. Check sponsors. Syringe is around 30$ Syringes with needles to make LC? Torch lighter (Boris?)

Subtrates.

1. Rye Berries (best for Sclerotia) buy in feed store, hardware stores are more expensive.a. Rye Berries substrate.

2. Oats are good as well.a. Can be mixed with Rye Berries.

3. Rye Grass Seed (RGS)a. Not that good for Sclerotia.

4. Wild Bird Seed (WBS)5. Brown Rice Flour (BRF)

Substrates to use: RGS, Rye Berries, WBS and PF Cakes.o Rye Grass Seed. http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Rye-Grass-Seed-Preparationo Buy at garden store. SEIGLE.o Cheaper is better as no chemicals.

The suggested (grain) mixture is a 4:1:1 RGS:water:coffee (by volume) with a pinch of gypsum and some unused coffee grounds tossed in for luck/tradition/ph/funny looks.

Suggested to not use any substrate you would be uncomfortable ingesting. Don’t shake once it starts growing.

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The mycelium is often beige, tan, brown, yellow, and various other shades Store during colonization in either light or dark, makes no difference.

SUBSTRATE PREPARATION. JARS.Coffee, water, gypsum, rye berries, jars, coffee pot, large pot, strainer/colander (spaghetti), jars, filtered lids, aluminum foil, pressure cooker, latex gloves, bucket to mix the substrate?

I start it by brewing a full pot (2 quarts) of strong coffee. (1.8 LITERS) In a large pot/kettle heat up 2-2.5 gallon of water and add the coffee. (8 LITERS) Add a couple of teaspoons of gypsum and stir.

While the water/coffee is heating measure out your rye.o MEASURE: Use a cup of rye for each quart jar.o

Rinse the grains a few times to clean them from all the dirt/debris.o When the water runs clear drain it.

Whenever the coffee/water is around 160 F (71°C) go ahead and shut off the stove and dump in the grains. Stir it around, cover and let it sit for 4-24 hours.

I usually do this overnight, with a soaking time of 8-10 hours.

WAIT TIME: Substrate preparation will need to sit and soak OVERNIGHT (one day).

Your rye is soaked, now it's time to boil. Bring it up to a full boil and let it go for 10-15 minutes. Turn off the stove and strain the grains in to large colanders/strainers.

o I like to put a fan on them and move them around a few times while drying. Make sure that the surface of the kernels is completely dry!

yes you can pressure cook with it on. but leave lid rings loose so escaping steam has somewhere to go than besides through the filter material, and the jar top should be covered with a piece of foil to prevent condensation on the PC lid from dripping back down onto it. when PC'ing is done allow to cool somewhat with the PC lid still on, then tighten down the rings before removing the foil.... then obviously allow to cool completely over several hours before inoculating it.

Now they're ready to load into jars.o Jar Lids:

Ghetto lid filters o Easy GE Lids from SB2o Bring that hole making thing

Use your favorite lids with your favorite filter (mine is synthetic filter disc).

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o Tyvek or polyfill will work too, but nothing beats the SFDs. Screw on lids and put a layer of aluminum foil on them.

Now you can load the jars in the pressure cooker.o Pressure cooker test o Possible to steam sterilize without Pressure Cooker.o Mom’s Lagostina is 12PSI.

PC them for at least 90 minutes (I like to go with 120...) @15psi. As always let the PC completely cool before removing the jars. Jars are room temperature and the foil is removed. The grains are a little bit compacted so I like to shake them gently a bit now.

Ready to be inoculated!

Add coffee grounds.

INOCULATION

Spore syringe, Easy way.

Do not shake once mycelium starts growing.

Mycelium starts out white, then it changes color.

Less water in jars than cubes.

It's easy to use too much (Or too strong, rather) coffee. Make sure to use weak coffee, and always use gypsum if you do coffee soak. Also, if you add the coffee grounds while soaking like I do, let the grounds soak for a while BEFORE adding your grain.

PUT WATER IN PRESSURE COOKER.

JARS

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5934690/an/0/page/0

Use Tyvek. Lids?

How to make lids, see SB’s thread.

Tyvek dry at all times.

STORAGE OF JARS 78F is about the best temperature you can keep them. Between 70F and 85F. Also, if you have a lot of these things stored together they produce their own heat through their metabolism,

especially if you have a few 12 packs in a cardboard box.

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Keep them about 3 months before you harvest, 2 months will work but your yield will be much better with 3. Leaving them much longer than 4 months will make them likely to mold.

ADVANCEDLiquid Culture:

If you are a bit advanced and make LCs for you cubensis, these species will do great in a DME (Dried Malt Extract) and DEX (Dextrose) LC. (see Thread)

Very often (especially with spore and agar wedge inoculation) sclerotia will form before full colonization of the substrate. This is perfectly normal. If you inoculate with LC, the mycelium usually just rips through the substrate and stones will form after 100% colonization. Either way you should see stones soon.

G2G (Grain to Grain)

When I want to expand and plan on doing G2G transfers, the best method IME is to start with LC. I use 3-4cc per jar and it's always done within a week.

o Stones are not forming yet or if so, they are very tiny. Just as usual, break up your colonized grain by shaking your jar, and transfer a small amount into new sterilized

substrate jars. However if you have a fair amount of LC, I'd rather go that way instead of G2G.

SUPPLIES

Psilocybe galindoi spore syringe. Small propane torch. Disposable rubber gloves. Isopropyl alcohol. RGS Rye Grass Seed (Seigle in French). Syringe (Online). Quart (quarter of a gallon, almost a liter) jar. (or larger) Walmart. Pressure cooker.

HARVESTING:Spoon, alcohol, aluminum foil, brush, sifter or mesh,

Well it is time to enjoy the first "fruits" of your labor. When you're at this stage, your jars should be at least 2 months or older. There's no point to harvest before 2 months and my latest harvest was 6 months.

o Some leave it longer, but I always in need of jars/space. Get a spoon and sanitize it with alcohol. Scrape out and separate the substrate and sclerotia on aluminum foil.

o I have done this before in laminar air flow and totally open air. Never ever get a contam with either method.

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To pick as you grow, get some digging in and pull them out from the top up. I would suggest a sterile fork/spoon as digging implements.

To harvest a container at a time, putting some chicken wire or similar mesh (holes bigger than grain, smaller than stones) over a frame and shaking should take a lot of work out of diggin for them. Think like searching for fossils or stones with a sifter. (Thanks Doc_T!)

Clean with brush

STORAGE

Clean your stones with a brush and store them fresh in paper bags in the fridge for weeks or dehydrate and store them for months.

Crush in pills.

PREPARATION: Grind up and put into chocolates. Put in chocolate milk. Make tea.

ADVANCED

Liquid Culture. Someone was discussing on here about starting a liquid culture by dropping a stone into a liquid culture jar, working in a still air box. another

possible method would be to take a core sample You take a sterile syringe and suck up a little of a new liquid culture, wipe a stone with iso, stick the syringe through the stone and back out.

and inject this back into your liquid culture jar, the liquid in the syringe helps push out the piece of stone. I read this on a another thread on here and to me that would seem the most sterile way of working as you would never have to open the

liquid culture jar.

Do an LC after buying syringe online as to not have to buy more, easier to keep LC is more important than agar. Agar needs a glovebox (complicated). Agar vs LC: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5423200#5423200 Agar is good for storing (so are prints, make prints!)

Fruiting Stonesun’s thread Go with either BRF cakes. Cased grain substrate.

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They don't require a special casing layer, I've used pasteurized 50/50, 50/50+, Jiffy Mix and Plantation Seed Starter Mix with equally great results.Make sure that you use a thin (~1/4") layer of your mix.Spread it evenly on the top of the substrate and put it into your fruiting chamber.I've used a SGFC and Greenhouse and they both perform good.Keep high humidity and lots of FAE throughout the whole fruiting.Keep your temperature between 65-80F.I've had them to fruit on constant 65F and constant 80F and anywhere in between.Light temperature of 6500K is preferred (although I experimented with a 8200K light too with good performance as well) with a cycle of 12/12.

Pins should appear within 10-14 days in optimal fruiting conditions. More info in thread starting at Stonesun, could you possibly update your tek with a little bit more detail about your casing technique? After 3 1/2 weeks I had seen nothing, not even myc poking through the casing. I woke up yesterday to find 6 huge

pins(compared to my previous attempts/successes) popping their beautiful heads up. This morning there were a couple more and they look super-healthy and vigorous.

I know these guys will take longer than cubes, but I was kind of giving up hope for this tray.

So basically my message is: hang in there and give the little suckers time, you may be rewarded even if things look less than spectacular for a few weeks.

Harvesting and spore printing. Now that the pins developed into mature fruits (anywhere between 5-10 days)

you are ready to harvest them.This is the same as you would do with any other species of mushroom,but keep it in mind that these guys are pretty fragile.Gently pull them off the substrate and set them aside.

Cut the caps off the stipe as close as you can and place cap onto alcohol sanitized heavy duty aluminum foil.o Do this in your glovebox or front of your flowhood.

An other good method is to use a plastic shoebox.Take the lid, and lay a sheet of sanitized foil in it.Put the caps on the foil and place the bottom of the box on the top of the lid.You'll have a nice sheet of good quality prints.

Making prints. START PRACTICING ON AGAR (as to not buy large numbers of syringes)

Spore syringe. LC (Liquid Culture) (good for keeping more spores. Do it with sterile water, see threads). Cloning Agar wedge

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CONTAMINATION All my late-stage contams have been white speckles that form on the stones and substrate. To be honest I'm not

100% sure mine were contaminated, they were between 4 and 6 months and just weren't quite right so I tossed them. This has only happened to me with G2G which is why I avoid it.

Research cobweb. Trich contamination

IMAGES:

Mycélium http://files.shroomery.org/files/11-22/725709270-DSC00045.jpg http://www.mushroomvideos.com/

DOSAGE

Devilstone

My galindoi experiences dosage wise...

1-2 grams fresh: Energy boosting, crisp vision and color enhancements, elated mood, clear mental focus and capable of going to work or doing regular routine daily tasks

3-8 grams fresh: Strong energy booster - like 4shots of espresso.. vision enhancements, minor prism effects in visual awareness.. capable of hanging around the house doing chores, cleaning, goofing off.. I probably wouldn't wander into town myself unless I had too.. but more than capable of an emergency run to the grocery store.

8-15 grams fresh: Light to moderate visuals, prisms, body energy high enough to feel odd at times.. strong closed eye visuals, probably not capable of major social functions, loss of thought patterns, easily distracted, large body high.

15-25 grams fresh: Beginning of ego seperation's, solid visuals open and closed eyed, auditory hallucinations, body rushes, disorientation during peak moments, moderate trouble focusing real world with hallucinogenic fantasy thoughts/realm.. don't go out unless its in the boonies or a phish concert.

25-50 grams... I stopped going higher than 34 grams.. at 34 grams it was like walking into gods living room and having a fireside chat with an old friend.. I visited once and figured I'd save that journey for special occasions from now on..

SB-2

Interesting...it only takes me about 10g fresh to get to the point of social inability. I seem to be sensitive to psychoactives in general, though

People like to say they're 2/3 as potent as cubensis when dry. IME, they're just as potent and the trip tends to last longer.

Also, it is important to note that how you eat stones plays a large role in the trip. Chew them just enough to swallow the large chunks, and you'll be tripping for 6-8 hours. Chew them a lot, powder them, or make tea, and it will hit you harder and for less time.

Ingesting

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I agree with all of these statements, but my favored method of dosing is to swallow them as whole as possible if they are fresh. The trip lasts between 4 and 8 hours that way, and it is a very energetic and "clean" trip. This is why I don't grow cubensis any more.

Someone asked if I ever grow them to the fruiting stage...I do not. I grow only sclerotia. This way I can do everything open air (See my sig) and can move the entire op is about 5 minutes in 5 plastic totes. Much more low-key, and I prefer stones to cubensis anyway. It's too bad I can't safely give them away in my country. I have a hobby that produces a lot more than I ingest, and even if I were stupid enough to sell you can't sell stones. Hopefully they have a long shelf life dried and vacuum sealed. I also tried vac sealing and freezing, seems to work well.

I took 1.4g, 12 large dried fruits. They are definitely stronger than cubes, though not quite as strong as Pan. Cyans/Tropicalis. I would equate the 1.4g to around 2.5-3g of Cubensis.

The overall high/effect was very similar to the stones with the addition of far more pronounced and bright visuals.The come up was fairly mellow and presented itself with uplifting body high and general euphoria. Found a definite drop off in potency at exactly the 2 hour mark, I put this down to the smaller size of the fruits and presumably an increased digestion rate compared with larger cubes.

Taste of fruits was similar to cubes though not as pronounced, easy to eat They seemed less introspective and more bouncy than cubes, CEV were more fractals than full on shifting scenes or

real images. Still fun to watch and drift with. OEV's were less strong than CEV, generally just gentle flowing of surroundings accompanied by very enhanced neon/bright colours.

I will probably move up to 2.5-3g next time, in another few weeks, I can't trip too often anymore.

RR

Fresh mexicana sclerotia by weight is considerably more potent than fresh cubensis by weight. The rocks are dense and heavy. 20 to 30 grams of fresh sclerotia isn't that much. It won't be more than half a golf ball in size, which is easy to eat. They also have a taste and texture similar to almonds

It really doesn't take four months either, although the stones will get a bit larger if you give them longer to grow. A good strain will begin producing sclerotia at full colonization. I've harvested them from quart jars after 8 weeks.

GRAIN PREPARATION:

http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Grain-Preparation

STORAGE In capsules : http://www.capsuleconnection.com/

IMPORTANT SOURCES TL’s Lids SB-2’s lazy tek

o Good info on how to make an LC jar.o Lids as well, although not any pictures.

Overunity’s TEK

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o Info on LC.o Photos.o Thorough thread.

Noobie’s lid tek. Noobie’s lid tek

Sclerotia FAQ What substrate is REALLY best for sclerotia by SB-2

o Information on oats. Sterilization Liquid Culture Baby Bottle Liquid Culture

o Sterilizing BBLC

Other interesting stuff:

Fruits and stones from a dud jar Grain spawn with pictures. ATL7 on BRF cakes WBS preparation http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/12932806#12932806 TL’s LC tek

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/14488446#14488446http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/14661527#14661527http://www.shroomery.org/9145/Liquid-Culture-Basics


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