MWB209 MAGAZINE JANUARY ISSUE

ISSUE 209 | JANUARY 2014 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BAKER BOYTED BAKER’S ELUSIVE RAY KELVIN ON THEBRAND’S RISE TO FAME—CHANGE IN SEASONYOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TOAUTUMN/WINTER 2014

mwb209 Main Document_Layout 1 10/01/2014 13:51 Page 2



JANUARY 2014 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

12 Online InsiderAdvice, news and issues online

14 Retail InsiderThe latest in-store news

17 Forecasting the futureA/w 14 predictions from trend agency Trendstop

19 Boosting your businessIdeas and advice from retail specialist Thierry Bale

26 Product newsRounding up the key stories this month

28 In-seasonFisherman’s friend

30 Survival of the knittedThe future of Johnstons of Elgin

33 A casual affair The success of lifestyle label Casamoda

36 New innings for Kent & Curwen The next step for the classic British brand

40 Brand newsThe latest developments in menswear

46 Style spottingFive of the key trends for a/w 14


62 In-seasonLife in black and white

65 G Star heads centralThe denim label opens on Oxford Street

67 East is EastThe brands to catch at Jacket Required

74 The young and the restless Highlights from this season’s contemporary menswear offer

7 Comment8 News20 Interview

Ray Kelvin

88 Collective91 The Bottomley Line94 Last Orders With…

Mark Haddon

Front cover:

Uniforms for the Dedicated 0046 735257041Photographer - Kalle Gustafsson

R E T A I L

G E N T

D E N I M & S T R E E T

B R A N D G U I D E

R E G U L A R S


JANUARY 2014 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

E D I T O R

Victoria Jackson [email protected]

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D E P U T y E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley [email protected]

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Isabella Griffiths [email protected]

Laura Turner [email protected]

Christina Williams [email protected]

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S U B E D I T O R

Amanda Batley [email protected]

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D E S I G N E R S

Michael Podger [email protected]

James Lindley [email protected]

Clive Holloway [email protected]

Richard Boyle [email protected]

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S A L E S M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff [email protected]

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S U B S C R I P T I O N S

Caroline Mackinnon [email protected]

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H E A D O F M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden [email protected]

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P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham [email protected]

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P O R T F O L I O D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook [email protected]

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M A R K E T I N G D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker [email protected]

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M A N A G I N G D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt [email protected]

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Let me start by wishing you all a Happy new Year and welcoming you to thefirst edition of mWB in 2014 – your comprehensive guide to theautumn/winter 2014 season no less.

By the time this issue has landed on your doorstep, the MWB team willhave already visited London Collections: Men, sampling just some of what theBritish designers are bringing to the table for the new season, as well kickingoff the international buying calendar over at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

One of the highlights for me during the buying season, apart from thefeeling of excitement and “buzz”, dare I say it, surrounding the brand newcollections, is having time to catch up with independent retailers like yourself. Pitti Uomo, for example, will no doubt have seen buyers and store owners fromacross the UK meet over a drink (or three) and talk about how business really is– the cold, hard reality of menswear if you like. From Exeter to Edinburgh, themenswear industry is infamous for its ability to discuss, advise and pass on asnippet or two of valuable information. The successful retailers are the oneswho share information. Whether it’s about a brand that is working particularlywell in-store, an up-and-coming label to watch out for or even just a good oldmoan about the industry as it is today.

I recently caught up with one independent whose view was that tradeshows had had their day. Brands now came to his store, therefore travelling andtaking time out of the shop was unnecessary. Although there is no doubting thisindie’s success, I imagine this kind of scenario is few and far between for themajority of the menswear industry. Trade shows give retailers time to not onlycatch up, but to re-energise and to breathe some new life into their store.

With a plethora of trade exhibitions taking place over the next month, thisissue of MWB will act as your definitive handbook to the new labels worthdiscovering and to the developments across both the mainstream anddirectional market. I hope to catch up with many of you at Bread & Butter, JacketRequired and Moda but for now I wish you an inspiring autumn/winter 2014buying season and a prosperous year ahead. And, remember, it’s good to talk!

Victoria Jacksoneditor

commenT

The autumn/winter 2014 season is infull throttle and, as the buyingcalendar kicks off both domesticallyand internationally, many retailers arevisiting trade shows to not only beinspired, but to catch up with fellowindies who might just be experiencing the same dailychallenges as them. —

JANUARY 2014 | NEWS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

THE HUB LAUNCHES THEGREENHOUSE

Hong Kong trade show The HUB has launched TheGreenhouse, an incubator initiative for emergingdesign talent from across the globe.

The show’s second edition, taking place on 25-27 February at Asia World Expo, will play host tothe new area, dedicated to around 50 young andprogressive international labels. With its own distinctdesign and ambiance, The Greenhouse is set toresemble a chic showroom in Paris or London.

“One of the key aspects of The HUB is that,although based in Asia, we don't favour local labels,”says Peter Caplowe, co-founder of The HUB. “Anyoneshowing at The HUB is here on merit alone – as such,we are delighted to have found such a wealth ofworld-class talent in the region. We are certain theywill make waves globally, especially with a newplatform, The Greenhouse, at which they can showalongside the world’s best emerging designers.”

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SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAYHAILED A SUCCESS

Small Business Saturday, an initiative to driveconsumers to shop in independent retailers that tookplace last month, has been hailed a success ashundreds of businesses offered flash sales and one-off promotions.

The campaign, initially launched in the US byAmerican Express, was supported by shadowbusiness secretary Chuka Umunna, the PrimeMinister David Cameron and 200 other members ofParliament with its launch in the UK.

“Never in my wildest dreams did I think it wouldget this big,” says Umunna. “There is such a lot of talkabout the American dream – small businesssucceeding against all odds. We do have a Britishdream, but we don’t talk about it; it’s not part of ourimagination. But Small Business Saturday can give lifeto that dream.”

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N E W S

Following a difficult but resilient 2013, independent retailers are feeling buoyantabout the next 12 months and are looking to both expand and increase buyingbudgets, according to a recent straw poll carried out by mWB.

With 2014 retail forecasts predicting an economic recovery that is set to continueto gather pace, many retailers are, for the first time in a number of seasons, increasingtheir spending and investing into both their bricks-and-mortar and online retail arms asthey move into the autumn/winter buying season.

Having opened his second store – Trunk Labs – on London’s Chiltern Street latelast year, independent retailer Mats Klingberg, founder of Trunk Clothiers is feelingpositive moving forward. “The hotel across from Trunk is finally opening early this year,so it should make a big difference to footfall,” says Klingberg. “It’s run by Andre Balaz,who has The Mercer and The Standard, among other hotels in the US, so it should bringin a good crowd.”

Despite investing heavily into his second store, Klingberg is also increasing hisoverall buying budget for autumn/winter 2014. “As the business is growing, we’re havingto change the way we buy, so we’re going to be buying much deeper into all the styleswe believe the most in compared to what we’ve done before.”

Kyle Stewart, owner of Shoreditch shop The Goodhood Store, will also increase hisbuying budget for the new season with a focus on Japanese brands to set him apartfrom the competition. “We’re feeling exceptionally positive about 2014,” he says. “Thenext 12 months will be about interesting collaborations and projects for us. In terms ofbuying, I get truly excited to see the Japanese brands. I believe nobody comes close tothem in terms of design and production, so we’re talking about looking at some of theless well-known high-end Japanese street labels to help us grow even further over thenext year or so.”

Helping such businesses to grow through 2014 – subsequently allowing them tocreate jobs, invest and export – is a key focus for John Longworth, director general ofthe British Chambers of Commerce. “Businesses up and down the country tell me theyare confident and determined to grow,” says Longworth. “The government must make aserious effort to deliver the many promises made and focus on implementing measuresthat will boost growth, such as increasing availability of finance to will raise theconfidence of businesses on the ground.”

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GROWTH IS KEY FORINDIES IN 2014

TRUNK


MERGER FOR THE STONEAGENCY AND BACKSTAGE

Two of the UK’s key fashion agencies, The StoneAgency and Backstage, have merged, and will nowbe run under the name Index London for a/w 14.

Bringing together a raft of brands includingBaracuta, Esemplare, Golden Fleece by Spiewak,Griffin and Notch London, the new partnership willwelcome the knowledge and experience of TheStone Agency’s Kevin Stone, Backstage founderSteffano Cardoni and sales manager Ed Fife.

The showroom opens on 20 January 2014, while the agency will be showcasing its brands at Pitti Uomo, Bread & Butter, Seek, Tranoi and Jacket Required.

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ATELIER GARDEUR PRESENTSDYNAMIC STRETCH

German trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur will, forthe first time, introduce two super-elastic trouserstyles for autumn/winter 2014, offering maximumfreedom of movement.

The Dynamic Cotton Stretch trouser has a largeproportion of stretchable material with innovativeyarn, while the Dynamic Denim Stretch comprises aDualfix multi-component yarn when both thespandex and the T400 fibre are coated with cotton –the result being denim that has maximum elasticityand a high level of shape retention.

Both styles are available as five pockets in thenew slim-fit style, with a narrow foot width of 38cm,while Cotton Stretch is presented in six differentcolours, and Denim Stretch in two shades of blue.

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LC:M KICKS OFF IN STYLE

London Collections: Men (LC:M) opened its doors for its fourth edition earlier this month, playing host to over 130 domestic and international names in menswear.

Now considered one of the leading events inthe menswear calendar, LC:M was held at TheHospital Club, Covent Garden, with events andshows taking place across the capital.

The show schedule kicked off with a catwalkshow at the Victoria House, presenting the a/w 14collection from Lou Dalton (pictured), while the likesof Christopher Raeburn, Burberry, Hackett Londonand Orlebar Brown held presentations and runwayshows throughout the three-day showcase.

The designer showrooms hosted a number ofready-to-wear lines from an array of designers, and wasseparated into four different categories – emerging,streetwear, contemporary and luxe basics designers.

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NATWEST UKFT AWARDS TORETURN FOR 2014

The Natwest UK Fashion & Textile Awards will returnthis year, taking place on 22 May 2014 at EastLondon’s iconic Tobacco Dock, and will be presentedby the BBC’s Susanna Reid.

The UKFT will, for the first time, lift the curtainon the awards with a “making of” film of the 2014campaign with fashion photographer David Goldman.Goldman, who has previously worked with the likesof Barbour and Pringle of Scotland, will create a fullbehind-the-scenes campaign, providing exclusiveaccess to the build-up of the awards.

The awards will see the best in British fashionbattle it out for the coveted UKFT Rise Award, won by Emma J Shipley in 2013. Likewise, the DesignerBusiness Award will recognise the huge creative and commercial success of the UK’s most influentialand established designers, won last year byChristopher Raeburn.

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CAPSULE JOINS REED EXHIBITIONSGlobal trade show Capsule has beenbought by event organiser ReedExhibitions. Capsule is held 12 times ayear, in Paris, Berlin, New York andLas Vegas, and specialises in both thecontemporary men’s and womenswearmarket.

The show, which has beenindependently operated by fashionconsultancy BPMW since its inception in2007, will join Reed’s currentportfolio, which includes trade showAgenda. The transaction was completedin late December and terms were not disclosed.

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NIKE AND ADIDAS TIGHTEN SALESREGULATIONSAccording to reports, sportswear giantsNike and Adidas have told UK and Irishindependent retailers that unless they meet the minimum sales requirementof £25,000 of apparel and footwear peryear, the companies will stop supplyingtheir goods.

Adidas sent its independentretailers a letter last November thatstipulated the company would cancelsmaller accounts if they wereinsufficient and did not sell therequired quota of goods.

A company spokesperson for Nike,meanwhile, stated that the companyrequires “its European retail partners,no matter the size of such partners, tomeet an annual minimum order level inorder to support the necessaryoperational costs associated withdelivering the best productpresentation and consumer experience atthe point of sale.”

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MID-MARKET RETAILERS SUFFER DECEMBERSALES DROPAccording to the latest data releasedby accountancy and business advisoryfirm BDO, retail sales for Decemberhave not been able to provide relieffor the British middle-market highstreet, including those such as FrenchConnection, Hobbs and Gap.

The firm’s High Street SalesTracker survey, which outlines theweekly like-for-like sales changes of85 mid-tier chain retailers, showedthat overall like-for-like sales formiddle-market retailers in Decemberwere down 2.2 per cent on a year-on-year basis.

In a statement, the firm states,“Following on from what was a solidmonth of trading in November, manyretailers will have been leftdisappointed by a month of lacklustreconsumer demand in the crucialChristmas trading period. Pent-updemand was expected to play a largerrole as we moved closer to Christmasday but in reality it never fully took hold.”

However, the weak performance ofin-store sales was boosted by 31.1 percent increase in online sales from 2012and, during the week prior toChristmas, online sales grew 55.7percent, another indicator pointing tothe growing importance of having astrong online presence.

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IN BRIEF

LAST YEAR’S WINNERS ON STAGEWITH PRESENTER MYLEENE KLASS

BARACUTA


WOLSEY SPORTSMANCOLLECTION

British heritage brand Wolsey is relaunching itshistoric Sportsman line for autumn/winter 2014. Therange, which was first released in the 20s, comprisesmodern and stylish high-performance tailoredsportswear, with a strong focus on breathable,waterproof and multi-layered outerwear andperformance merino polos, base layers and knitwear.

Sportsman’s clean and subtle use of traditionalBritish menswear colours, minimal and strong texturalpatterns are designed to create a “less is more” aesthetic.

Wolsey has partnered with Invista, the maker ofThermocool, to offer a full range of products thatdual regulate body temperatures. Prices range from£35 for a T-shirt to £400 for a jacket. The brand plansto recreate a team of pioneers that championWolsey’s spirit of adventure and demonstrates keybrand messages through strategic ad campaigns,sponsored activity and media feature placements.

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BREAD & BUTTER WIDENSTHE NET

German trade show Bread & Butter is to embark ona dramatic change in direction next year, when it isplanning to open up the show to consumers.

Starting with its July 2014 edition, the event willintroduce two public days to its regular trade showschedule, taking the duration of the event to fivedays, on 8-12 July. The first day will be reserved forpress, top bloggers and invited VIP guests, while thesecond and third day will remain focused onprofessional buyers and trade visitors.

During the fourth and fifth days, however, theshow will be opened up to the public, whereexhibiting brands will have the option of promotingtheir brands to the end consumer, and can choosewhether they want to give glimpses of the comingseason or advertise current season product.

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OLYMP TURNOVER EXCEEDS€200M MARK FOR FIRST TIME

German shirt and knitwear specialist Olymp has onceagain experienced turnover in both its domestic andexport market.

In 2013, the brand’s annual turnover grew by afurther €15.5m to €202.4m, representing an increaseof 8.3 per cent against the previous year.

“In 2013, Olymp made its largest singleinvestment in the company’s history since 1951,” saysMark Bezner, owner and CEO of Olymp BexnerGmbH & Co. “A total of €40m was invested into ourmodern logistic centre and hence in the medium-term future of our company.”

In view of the changing needs of the market,Olymp has also increased its leisure and knitwearsector. “Because of changed consumer behaviour interms of clothing and leisure habits and the relaxingof dress codes in the business world, casualwear isbecoming increasingly more important,” says Bezner.

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SME ONLINE RETAILERS TOCOMBINE CLICKS AND BRICKS

One in six UK SME (small and medium enterprises)online retailers are planning to expand into physicalstores in 2014 as online competition for sales grows,according to research conducted by Royal Mail.

The annual study of more than 400 UK SMEonline retailers found that 16 per cent expected tolaunch into a physical store or seek space in anexisting store to increase its sales in 2014.

“UK SME online retailers are thinking carefullyabout how they can develop their businesses during2014,” says Nick Landon, managing director of theRoyal Mail. “They are concentrating on exploiting asmany channels to market as possible, adding spacein physical premises and online marketplace listingsto complement their existing web channel.”

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INTEL COMBINES TECHNOLOGY AND FASHIONTechnology giant Intel is expandinginto the fashion sector with apartnership with Barneys New York, theCouncil of Fashion Designers of Americaand Opening Ceremony to produce“wearable tech”.

Announced at the InternationalConsumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaslast month, Intel explained it washoping that the partnership willaccelerate wearable device innovation,as well as increase dialogue betweenfashion and technology industries.

The project will see the launch ofthe smart bracelet, between Intel andOpening Ceremony, however detailsregarding the design, the price pointand release date has not be disclosedat the time of going to press.

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KEY NAMES BAN USE OF ANGORAAsos, H&M, Next, Esprit and Topshopamong others have agreed to stopselling angora products after therelease of last month’s graphic videoof PETA’s investigation into angorafarms in China. Asos confirmed that itwas banning and pulling from itsshelves any products made with angorawith immediate effect.

“By pulling all angora productsfrom its international websites andshelves, Asos has done the right thingfor animals and consumers,” says PETAUK’s Mimi Bekhechi. “Angora productionis cruel, and PETA urges all retailersto follow Asos’ example and show thatcruelty to animals has no place intheir stores.”

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COSTUME NATIONAL DEBUTS NEW MENSWEARLINEItalian fashion house Costume Nationalhas revealed the launch of its newmenswear ready-to-wear line, Costumeand Costume. With a five-year licenceagreement for the worldwide productionand distribution of the new brand withFFI Global, Costume and Costume willreplace its current Costume Nationalcollection.

The new range will have a “morecontemporary market approach” thanCostume National, and has been developedin response to market feedback.

The line will also have its ownindependent structure of distributionand direct retail stores, as well asbeing available in Costume Nationalflagship stores. The label is alsoplanning to open boutiques and spacesinside selected department stores inEurope, the US and Asia.

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HARVEY JACOBSON NAMED AS BACKER OFBARRATTSHarvey Jacobson, chairman of theJacobson Group, has been named as oneof the backers to have acquired theintellectual property of troubledfootwear retailer Barratts.

Barratts entered administration inNovember 2013, with financial advisoryfirm Duff & Phelps appointed aftermounting losses brought on by poortrading conditions. All remainingBarratts stores have now ceased tradingwith around 850 redundancies.

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IN BRIEF


JANUARY 2014 | ADVICE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12

ONLINE INSIDERAdvice, news and issues online.

WEB WATCH

WWW.WHISKEYGRADE.COm

Formerly known as Anchor Division, WhiskeyGrade is a more than a menswear blog. Withfuture plans to launch a print version later thisyear, it seems co-founders Jamison Aweau, MikeCollins and Kyle Bak recognise there is still a needfor good-quality, hard-copy publications. Theethos behind Whiskey Grade is to supportupcoming brands in the US, using their ownphotography the majority of the time to make surethese new names are given their chance to shine.

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ADVICE: COULD THE SPEED OF YOURWEBSITE BE DAmAGING SALES?

HEDLEY AYLOTT,CEO at Summit,specialist in onlinemarketing and e-commerce and canbe contacted viafieldworksmarketing.co.uk.

Research by online retail specialist Summit has found that slow websitescost UK retailers £8.5bn in 2013. For a retailer turning over £10m online,this could translate to a loss of almost £1m in revenue.

It paints a stark picture of lost opportunities as frustrated shoppers viewfewer pages and therefore spend less money. The impact on brandperception is more difficult to quantify but no less damaging – frustratedshoppers have multiple ways to share their bad experiences.

With a minimum of 30 per cent of retailers’ site traffic coming frommobile devices – where connection speeds are slower – a fast website iscrucial to keep this audience engaged and shopping.

The front-end of a website is often the biggest contributor to slowingdown page load speed, and a creative feature that is heavy with CSS orbeautifully designed pages with images that haven’t been optimised areusually the culprits.

The challenge for most online retailers is to find the right balancebetween brand, design, user experience and performance. Running the sitethrough a performance-checker at various trading periods with very highpeaks or low troughs will allow the current speed to be evaluated andmeasured against the industry three-second benchmark.

Hosting also plays a role in site performance and, as retailers,particularly those in fashion and apparel, expand internationally, they needto keep speed in mind when establishing their hosting infrastructure.Retailers can deploy content across multiple, geographically dispersedservers to make pages load faster from the user’s perspective.

Lastly, including site speed in the daily and weekly performance metricsis crucial in raising the visibility of this issue. This metric can now be found inGoogle Analytics.

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PAYPAL AND EE ON BOARD AT BOXPARKMARKETPLACEBoxpark’s latest innovation, BoxparkMarketplace – which allows shoppers tobuy and share items in-store, onlineand on their mobile – is set to welcomePaypal and EE on board this month.

“Paypal and Boxpark are levellingthe playing field for independentretailers, giving them the chance tocompete and win,” says Narik Patel,director of mobile merchant servicePaypal. “We’re enabling seamless,secure payments for Boxpark retailersacross all their sales channels – web,mobile and in-store.”

Stuart Jackson, director of the CEOoffice at EE, adds, “We’re proud to behelping to bring the Boxpark Marketplacevision to life. Our super-fast 4Gservice will give Boxpark’s independentretailers and their customers access tothe latest cutting edge technology,creating one of the most innovativeretail experiences on the planet.”

PERSONAL SHOPPER TECHNOLOGY ARRIVES INTHE UKTechnology designed to offer consumersalternative shopping options based on asimple image is expected to launch inthe UK this year, having been trialledsuccessfully in the US. FindSimilar –developed in the UK by Cortexica VisionSystems – mimics the way the brainprocesses an image to present a rangeof shopping possibilities to consumers,based on a camera phone snap of acatwalk image or a mannequin.

Search results generated by thesoftware are based on a combination ofpattern, style, colour and overalldesign, and allow the consumer to finda similar style that is more accessiblypriced, or simply closer to theirpersonal taste.

“For a retailer, having an apppowered by our software is like puttingyour own shop assistant into acompetitor’s store,” says Iain McCready,CEO of Cortexica. “We all recognise thatdeep feeling of frustration afterhunting for an item of clothing thatwe’ve seen or admired, or the experienceof finding something and wishing wecould find a better or sometimes moreaffordable alternative. Our software isthe answer to these perennial problems.”

NEWS

JANUARY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAILINSIDER

VIEWPOINT

Autumn/winter 2013 is our first full winterseason with Armani Jeans and Hugo Boss andthankfully they’ve been moving really well.

For me, the appeal of Armani Jeans is thatit’s been strong across the categories. Thefeedback we’ve received from our customersis that they love the quality of the fabrics andthe fit. Those details are really important to usand it’s a concern when a well-loved brandshows signs of weakening on that criteria.Barbour has a phenomenal check-out here asone of our major brands, but I have had causefor concern recently with a few styles arrivingwith ill-fitting sizes. I very much hope that theyhave these issues remedied for next season.

As retailers, I’m sure that we all felt a sighof relief as the weather turned colder thisNovember after such a mild start. We werereally counting on it and saw the effects as itdrove sales, especially in outerwear. Carharrtparkas and blazers from Ted Baker and Guidehave been very popular and have a cross-generational appeal. We have the “OneDirectioners” sporting their blazer with scarfand jeans and the older man who is updatinghis blazer as a wardrobe staple.

Just before the Christmas seasongathered pace, we gave the mensweardepartment a mild-facelift and the result is anantique, almost castle-like feel to the floor. Webrought in some tribal rugs to inject a richertone to the space and mounted a few of ourstag heads around too. A festive ambience wasprovided by candles burning throughout thestore, some scented with winter spices.

It was a great backdrop for the gift tables,which displayed our add-on accessories fromthe likes of Armani and Ted Baker plus a fewselect books. The books at Javelin have beena surprise hit with our customers in recentyears. The adult parody of the children’s classicGoing on a Bear Hunt (renamed Going on aBar Hunt), has been a particular favourite. Let’sall hope, in the words of the original that, in2014, “we’re going to catch a big one!”www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MAIL CLOTHING SECTOR SETTO EXPERIENCE CONTINUED GROWTH

The UK clothing and footwear sectors will see further growth up until 2019, according to a forecastreport by Verdict Research.

The male market, in particular, will offer the greatest growth opportunities, while the clothing andfootwear industry as a whole will grow by 22 per cent.

While this is certainly a positive turn for the industry, the report indicates that the mainstreammarket will struggle, with retailers who offer “mass market trends and uninspiring websites” fallingvictim to the trading conditions.

Population growth is set to aid sales further, with the population of the UK expected to grow by2.2m over the next five years, while childrenswear is also forecast to experience growth as the numberof 0 to 14 year olds increases.

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IN BRIEF

The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.—

LONDON LAUNCH FOR ITALIAN ACCESSORY LABELPIQUARDOPremium leather accessory label Piquardowill open its first London store nextmonth on the capital’s Regent Street. Thebrand, which offers handbags, luggage andleather accessories, will consider otheroptions once its debut store has openedand consumer reaction is measured. Theluxury label currently has over 100 storesacross Europe and Asia, and will lookoutside London for potential stores in thenext two years.

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RETAIL TRUST GRAND SCOTTISH BALL RAISESOVER £100,000The annual Retail Trust Grand ScottishBall took place last month, welcoming over300 guests and raising over £100,000 forthe charity dedicated to all those whowork in the retail sector. Held in theGlasgow Hilton hotel, the night wasattended by some of the biggest names inretail including Matalan, House of Fraser,New Look and Harvey Nichols. Thefundraiser included a dinner, live musicand charity tombola. After speeches byJohn Amabile and Retail Trust’s CEORichard Boland, guests were invited todonate funds to Retail Trust.

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JEREmY CLAYTON is themanaging director of Javelin inBury St Edmunds, Suffolk. He isa member of the FashionAssociation of Britain (FAB)

JANUARY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: ELEmENTS

IN FOCUS: NUmBER SIx

STRONG SALES FORNEXT SEE INCREASE IN

PROFIT FORECAST

High-street retailer Next has increased its full-yearprofit forecast after experiencing a thrivingChristmas sales period.

Sales rose 11.9 per cent between 1 Novemberand 24 December compared with the same periodlast year, which the company said was“significantly” beyond its own expectations.

This is the second time Next has raised itsannual profit guidance in the last six months, andis now estimating its full-year profits to bebetween £684m and £700m.

However, the economy as a whole, includingthe issue of the lack of wage growth across thecountry, was a focus for the firm in its lateststatement.

“The problem of little or no growth in realearnings looks set to persist for some time, andwe cannot see any reason to expect a significantincrease in total consumer spending in the yearahead,” says a spokesperson for Next.

“We are also wary that any return tosignificant economic growth is likely to result inrising interest rates which, in turn, is likely tomoderate spending of those with mortgages.”

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How did Christmas trading compare to the year before? For Christmas just gone we matched our 2012 figures in store, but ouronline sales were up 75 per cent. We’ve put a lot of work into growingthis side of the business and the momentum has steadily grownthroughout the year. —Did the shopping hit later than usual? There wasn’t a big surge in trade – in fact, it sometimes felt a little flat.

However, we were fortunate to have some bigpurchases. The people who came in wanted tospend rather than just browse.—What brands and products have been strong?Farah Vintage has been performing extremely well –

well-designed, simple product at a good price. Stocking fillers likeHomey slippers always perform well. Elvine and Parka Londonouterwear have also had good sell-throughs – particular impressive asit has been a very mild winter. Supreme Being has been brilliant ontees and, in particularly, its sweaters – great designs and fit. —What's your outlook for trading this spring/summer?Positive, but realistic. Business is still tough but we are working harderthan ever as we look to broaden our online sales. On the high street Ithink it’s slowly getting better, but it’s going to be a slow process. Wehave lots of new brands being introduced for s/s 14, which I think ishealthy, as the brand mix keeps moving forward and hopefullyinterests established and new customers alike.

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PETIT BATEAU LAUNCHES POP-UPHot on the trail of its recent Paris pop-up in Marais, French contemporary labelPetit Bateau is set to open its firstLondon concept store in Shoreditch thisyear. With an undisclosed address at thetime of going to print, the store willopen on 14 February and will stay open forone month, catering for both menswear andwomenswear. In collaboration withlandscape architects, Wayward Plants, thepop-up store will capture the classicParisian style the brand has becomerenowned for since its launch in 1893.

—

JONNY GEORGEBUYER, ELEMENTS,NORWICH

6 DRAY WALK, THE OLD TRUmAN BREWERY, LONDON, E1 6QL.

ESTABLISHED: 2009

BRANDS:ANDERSON BELTS,BARBOUR, C6, FILSON,LA PAZ, MUSEUM,OLIVER SPENCER, OURLEGACY, REEBOK,UNIVERSAL WORKS

Tucked away in the heart of East London, Number Six is best known for its excellent selection ofsought-after casual menswear. Number Six opened its doors at the Truman Brewery in late 2009and before that was a successful online store, When We Were Casuals, which garnered a loyal andsizeable customer base. Throughout its existence as a menswear shopping destination, Number Sixhas undergone a few facelifts and a recent change of hands in ownership. The shop was boughtfrom Mark Batista (who started the business) by Jake Hardy, who had designed, built and maintainedthe website from the off. “When the opportunity came up to take on the whole store it was achallenge I felt could not be missed,” says Hardy, who took over in full on 1 October 2013.

Number Six claims to be the best in menswear retail by offering great brands including La Pazand C6, combined with a feel-good shopping experience. Hardy believes that innovation is the keyto success and likes to tick as many boxes in this area as possible. The website is fully responsive onall devices including Android and iOS 7 and offers a Click & Collect service which is easy forconsumers to navigate. Customers can also tour the store virtually on Google (http://bit.ly/no6tour).

—

IN BRIEF


JANUARY 2014 | TRENDS | 17

FORECASTINGTHE FUTURE

Trend agency Trendstop.com focuses on early consumer analysis, helping you to add trend confidence to your buying decisions. For autumn/winter 2014-15, it gives an exclusive look at some of

the key concepts emerging across colour, print, apparel, accessories and themes. —

COLOUR:KINGFISHER TEAL

A deep green tinted teal surfacesacross clothing and accessory stylesthis season, lending a newsophistication to modern tailoringand long-line outerwear. Additionally,luxe fabrics give a new richness, asseen in polished leather pieces suchas Jil Sander bags and SalvatoreFerragamo gloves. —

1 2

3 4

1 WOOYOUNGMI2 CARVEN3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO4 JIL SANDER

1 MUGLER2 BIKKEMBERGS3 KENZO

APPAREL: FORMAL SPORTS BLOCK SHIRT

Formal shirting makes a statement with sportive colour blocking this season, as contrast panels surface acrosssleeves and shoulders. An ideal look for both officewear and evening occasions, contrast panels pop in bold colours,adding interest to conventional shapes. Contrast sleeves are key for an athletic feel. —

1 2 3

>>>

JANUARY 2014 | TRENDS | 18

1 VIKTOR & ROLF2 CHRISTIAN LACROIX3 PHILLIP LIM4 VALENTINO

PRINT:CASUAL CAMO LUXE

The ever-popular camo print is updated with abstract andirregular designs, infusing menswear with a relaxed yet refinedfinish. It’s a key look for autumn/winter knits, as seen inmonochrome at Christian Lacroix and Viktor & Rolf. Other stylesappear in luxurious camo-blocked outerwear complete with furrylapels, as well as fold-over leather bags in elegant blue tones. —

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ACCESSORIES: SUITING HOLDALL

Practical holdalls are given a classic appeal with traditional suiting textures,creating refined yet wearable must-have accessories. Gym bag straps andblack contrast detailing add a sporty feel to bags, while brown wooldesigns go one step further to incorporate authentic formalwear elementssuch as collars or lapels. —

1

2 3

1 LANVIN2 KRIS VAN ASSCHE3 POKETO

Trendstop works with leading retailers to ensure all key trends are encapsulated and translated appropriately for the target audience tomaximise sales. Register your interest at www.trendstop.com, request a demo or download the Trendstop TrendTracker app. Join with yourcompany email to receive exclusive professional content.

THEME:WINTER NAUTICAL

Originally predicted as a directional mensweartheme for autumn/winter 2013-14, this trend willtranslate well into commercial collections forautumn/winter 2014-15. Traditionally associatedwith summer, nautical designs are transformedfor winter in cold-weather wools and darkerseasonal colours. Key pieces emerge in navywool outerwear and chunky knit jumpers, whileaccessories take the shape of anchor motifjewellery, durable boots and seafaring suitcases.—

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1 DIOR HOMME2 RYNSHU3 BALMAIN4 MAINSAI5 NICOLE FARHI

JANUARY 2014 | REPORT | 19

THE ONLY WAY IS UP:BOOSTING YOUR BUSINESSFROm WITHIN Thierry Bayle, founder of business consultancy Global Fashion management, looks at how the way wework can make a huge difference to the profitability of a fashion retail business. —

You’re desperately trying to move a/w 13 stockbefore the s/s 14 goods arrive. You’re probablyalso working on some marketing ideas to boostsales once the new stock is on the floor. Life onthe shop floor is busy, but let’s take a second anddiscover a few tips that will continue to work longafter the fresh goods have started to look tired.

Let’s start with the vision and strategy foryour business. Is your master plan in your head orhave you also committed it to paper? It needs tobe written down so you can refer to it at frequentintervals and also update or adapt it as necessary.This will keep you on track, remind you why youadopted this approach and keep your eyes on theprize. Then there’s the question of focus. This iswhere you share your vision and strategy withyour team, so that you are all singing from thesame song sheet. Make sure that the sales teamknow and understand your vision and strategy forthe business. Why? Because if they don’tunderstand what you are trying to do or why, howcan you expect them to help you? It’s importantto revisit the objectives regularly, to check thatyou and your team are meeting them. Remindingthem why you are following a particular path willhelp to focus them and help them to own their job,not just rent it. The result should be significantlymore engaged and motivated staff and, hopefully,better profits.

you’re sceptical? Recently, I worked with amenswear shop where the owner was havingproblems motivating his sales team. I talked to thesales staff, which told me, “It’s him and us – he sits inthe office out the back with his computer and wedon’t know what’s going on. We don’t even knowif we’ll have jobs this time next week.” I explainedthis to the owner and we organised a meetingwhere he talked the sales team through hisstrategy and explained to them what he was tryingto do. He was also asked to work on it weekly withthe team. Eureka! After two months, things hadimproved enormously. Staff motivation hadchanged dramatically and total sales per staff andconversion rates had increased – his sales figureswere starting to look healthier. See what I mean?

Having established vision and strategy, it’simportant to make sure you have processes inplace so the team – and you – know precisely,according to your minimum standards and values,how to handle an angry customer, collectcustomer data such as mobile, email, first name,date of birth and so on. A process is also requiredto handle faulty or late goods coming from thebrands you are buying. Make sure all the tasks thatare important in the business have a clear process.

Staff training and motivation plays a key rolein the success of a retail business. In any job,people need to know exactly what is expected ofthem. As well as telling them, it needs to be

written down as a job description (or to-do list) inorder to provide clear guidelines on what theyshould be doing and how you want them to do it.

On the training front, don’t assume anything.What may be second nature to you may simply notoccur to your staff. Check that everyone has theright tools and skills for the job with regulartraining sessions. Focus on one topic at a time andkeep these sessions low-key to avoid alienatingmore experienced members of the team. Makesure they are followed up with some carefulobservation of the training in action – praise themwhen they perform well; comment and correctconstructively where necessary. Training needs tobe regular in order to be effective, with themessages repeated at regular intervals.

Ask your team for their input to generatesales ideas – they know your customers as well asyou do and will appreciate being consulted. Itpays to accept that you might not always be right.One retailer I know stocks a particular dressbrand. It’s increasingly hard to sell, but he doesn’twant to change it – he claims his clients still wantthe brand. His staff disagrees and thinks he shouldupdate the dress offering. Sometimes you need tolisten to your team, be open to new ideas and lookclosely at how your customer base is evolving.

Scary as it may sound, measuring productivity,yours and that of your staff, can help to boostprofitability. In order to measure sales productivityover time, you need to be able to set markers so thatyou can track progress. Without these, you can’taccurately see how it develops. However, beforeyou start designing charts and spreadsheets, it’sworth bearing these points in mind – the membersof staff need to know exactly what their job entails and what they should be doing – doeseveryone have a job description? They need toknow how to do their job – have you trained them?They need to know why they are doing it – haveyou shared your vision and values for the businesswith them?

When we talk about productivity in a retailenvironment, we mean the effectiveness of thesales staff. The bottom line here is did they sell,and how much? This needs to be broken down byfactors such as:

• How many customers came into the shop? • How many sales were achieved (the conversionrate)? • The average value per transaction – due to

part-time employees, calculate it per hourworked

• The average number of units per transaction

One of our clients had three womenswearboutiques. While his sales in units wereimpressive, he wanted to boost sales in Pounds.He brought in new brands to get his customers to

trade up, but little changed for the first half of thenew season. It turned out that the sales teamknew very little about the new stock and didn’tfeel confident recommending it, although theycertainly weren’t steering customers away from it.We suggested that he took the time to work onproduct knowledge and styling issues with theteam. At the same point the following season, thenew brands were selling well and the monthlysales had increased in value by 18 per cent.

Finally, here are a few words aboutimplementing changes (which is, broadly, what I’vebeen talking about). When new ideas and plansare put in place, they will only work if they arefollowed through.

It only makes sense to change the way youwork if it improves things. Allow for mistakes – thisis how you learn, just don’t make too many. Lookback over your history – examine incidents thatmay have resulted in your staff being reluctant toembrace change now. Set plans for change withinthe context of a long-term goal. The key thing withchange is follow-through. It’s important to stayfocused and maintain the momentum.

—Thierry Bayle, Tel: +44 (0) 20 8576 6233Email: [email protected] www.globalfashionmanagement.comTwitter @RetailFashionGlobal Fashion Management provides UK andcontinental European retailers a guaranteedsuccess route to better managing their twogreatest assets – stock and people. It has workedclosely with retailers for 20 years, and has over400 clients in Europe and the US.

JANUARY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 20

FounDer anD ceoTeD Baker

inTerVieW

ray kelvin, Ted Baker’s enigma of aceo, and a cBe no less, hascharacter in abundance, but rarelyseems to talk to the press and stillhides his face because he says, “it’ssexier to conceal than to reveal.”But, for the launch of a short filmshowcasing the new men’s andwomen’s s/s 14 collections, hedecided to take centre stage andfield questions about the brand he’sbuilt for the last 25 years. TomBottomley pulled up a chair.—

Tom Bottomley: Did you ever envisage when youstarted out that you’d have a global fashion brand?Ray Kelvin: No, I can’t believe it. In my previous life,I was faceless supplier to the high street withwomenswear. I felt I had to develop a brand to geton, because I was so frustrated as a designer. I wasasked to make a ladies’ blouse, but “to dosomething a little bit different”, so I made one withthree sleeves.—TB: You initially started out just with Ted Bakermen’s shirts, right?RK: yes, I started out with a small shop in Glasgowmaking and selling men’s shirts, and slowlybuilding a wholesale network – literally one at atime. Ian Draper came on board from day one asour sales agent and he’s still with us. As a company,we now employ something like 3,500 peoplearound the world.—TB: People began talking about the brand whenyou started selling in Harrods, how did thatcome about?RK: It was 1989, a year after starting up, and I gota call from a Harrods buyer saying, “I’m FionaStaniland from Harrods – we’ve seen your shirts inGlasgow and we love them.” I put the phone downbecause I thought it was someone messing mearound. She phoned back and said, “We’ve seen

raY keLVin

JANUARY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 21

your shirts and we’d like to do some business withyou.” And that was it. I started with a smallconcession in Way In. Everything was small tobegin with. I didn’t have big money. —TB: Was there a significant time where you reallyestablished Ted Baker?RK: In the late 80s and early 90s we had a big hitwith a shirt. I found a fabric made out of viscoseand rayon and turned it into a lot of money. I putmy own mark on the fabric and called it Ted KnowsIt. It was worn by clubbers and ravers. I saw anopportunity and we did plains, prints, checks –everything in that fabric. We originally ordered500 metres of fabric, which went to three millionmetres. That’s a lot of shirts. At the time, peoplewere standing outside our shop in Covent Gardenlike there was a famine. —TB: Things are a bit different now – when did youfloat the business?RK: It was 17 years ago – in 1997. The company wasvalued at £58m. We made £4m profit on £14mturnover. The company today is valued at £950m,with a £350m turnover. We’re forecast to make£40m profit this year. —TB: Has this growth come from your expansionoverseas?RK: Well, a good 35 per cent of our turnover onretail is now overseas. The Middle East and Asiaare good for us, and we’ve just started going intodepartment stores across Europe – the mainplayers in Germany, Spain and so on – and it’sgoing very well.—TB: is the uk still your strongest market? RK: yes it is. In terms of our retail it represents 65per cent of our business. But wholesale businessrepresents 30 per cent of our overall business.—TB: When you open stores, does it affectbusiness with independents you may supply inthe same towns?RK: It shouldn’t. In fact, I think it benefits them.When we have concessions in department stores,quite often people might see us there but then goto the independent instead because I just thinkthey like the personal service. Often, they havedifferent product, too. I love independents. I wasonce an independent menswear retailer, or at

least it was a family business where I worked onSaturdays and during school holidays. I alsosometimes worked on markets such as Enfield andHounslow selling women’s separates. My fatherhad a small factory making women’s blouses.Before that, my grandfather had a menswear shopcalled B Factor in Edmonton, and my mother wasborn upstairs. My grandmother was serving acustomer for a suit when she went into labour, andshe wouldn’t leave the customer! My uncle endedup taking over the business, and he also had ashop called Cheers in Enfield. When I workedthere we sold brands such as Leroy, After Six,Levi’s, Falmer, Brutus, Honorbilt and Farah. It wasthe late 60s and the 70s. I still think about thosedays every day of the week. I loved it. We used toget all the Spurs and Arsenal footballers comingin, as well as local gangsters. Customers includedplayers such as John Radford, Ray Kennedy, MikeEngland and Steve Perryman. I still see Steve now.—TB: You produce all your own fabrics, is that animportant factor to mark your product out fromthe crowd?RK: The fabrics have always been the best, and we’ve always designed our own. I think thatdoes mark us out. It’s also great quality. For theprice it’s unbelievable. Twice the product at halfthe price. We even have hand-embroidereddresses that are £2,000 but, from a high-enddesign house, it would be more like £6,000. That’s always been my philosophy, to producethings that are fantastic quality. Nobody else willhave our prints because we supply the supplierswith what we want. That goes for our licensedproduct, too, such as watches, shoes, eyewear andluggage – which isn’t out just yet. Everything isdesigned in-house. —TB: are any more storeopenings imminent?RK: In a way, we’re going fullcircle because we’re launchinga new flagship in Glasgow thisspring. We have a store inPrinces Square, but we’removing to a bigger shop onBuchanan Street. It’s a betterposition and there’s greaterfootfall. They love us inGlasgow, and we love them.

—TB: You also now have nine barber shops, whendid that start to happen?RK: It has been unbelievable. We have Turkishpartners, and have people queuing up day andnight to be served. We first launched it three yearsago in Holborn. There are now eight standaloneshops, and one in a Ted Baker store. They’re calledTed’s Grooming Room, and we’re opening anotherone in Covent Garden imminently. We’re alsoselling grooming products – that I designed – toBoots. It’s going to be massive. We’re going totake on Wilkinson and Gillette for groomingproducts. Fragrances are also big time. Ourbusiness is very widespread, and that all comesunder licensed income. We’re a big business, butwe like to do things vertically. We do everythingin-house as much as we possibly can, and we areclaustrophobic in our management style. —TB: Do you go round to your shops yourself?RK: I still work in them. I was in our Covent Gardenshop on Saturday. I sell men’s and womenswear.What sort of reaction do I get from customers?Well, I hug them, and they hug me, call me Ted and buy things. They say, “Can I take you outat the weekend?” And I say, “Only if I pay formyself!” I don’t tell them my name’s Ray, becausethey want to know that there is a Ted Baker. WhenI started out I used a different name in case I went bankrupt.—TB: Do you still come up with the quirkywindows?RK: I used to, and still do, but I don’t come up withthem all because I’ve got a team and I can’t doeverything. I came up with the “cabinet re-shuffle”

one, where there was acabinet in the window with allthe clothes shuffling inside.Funny that I’m seeing theChancellor of the Exchequer,George Osborne, tonight.He’s invited people in businessto go and talk to him becausehe has things he wants toshare with us. I don’t mind himpicking my brains either. Afterall, I’m a CBE, a Commanderof the British Empire – I’ve gotto give something back!

“The fabrics havealways been thebest, and we’vealways designedour own. I thinkthat does mark usout. It’s also greatquality. For theprice it’sunbelievable”

JANUARY 2014 | PROMOTION | 22

GIORDANO THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY

For any menswear retailer in search of the newnames and fresh new ideas that will take theirbusiness forward in 2014, next month’s editionof moda should be the most essential date onthis season’s calendar. In four weeks’ time theshow will be unveiling its most exciting line-up sofar of brand new arrivals, alongside an unmissableprogramme of catwalk shows, expert seminarsand industry debates featuring some of theleading names in UK independent retail.

BEST OF BRITISH

It’s not surprising that the UK’s national menswearshow should be home to the season’s biggestselection of British brands but, with the Brit lookstill a major trend, retailers will be looking atestablished names with fresh eyes. Offeringclassic tailoring with a sharp contemporary twistwill be the likes of Gibson London and maddoxStreet, teaming heritage fabrics with fittedshapes, while brands including Bladen, Gurteen,Douglas & Grahame and Brook Taverner offertheir own take on the trends. British shirtspecialist Double Two will also be unveiling itsnew collection, with heritage knitwear labelPeregrine also a name to watch at this season’sshow. The British Belt company, meanwhile,favours British fabrics Harris Tweed and Britishmillerain and use traditional skills that have beenpassed through generations.

—

16-18 February 2014, nec Birmingham

neW innoVaTiVe BranDS.neW iDeaS in reTaiL. THe PLace To Do BuSineSS.

LIFESTYLE AND CONTEMPORARY

Moda remains the number one place in the UKto source the best in casual lifestyle brands, withnew arrivals such as crew clothing andBoomerang joining the line-up alongside labelsincluding camel active, Florentino and casamoda and raging Bull. you’ll also find a growingnumber of urban and active lifestyle brands atthe show this season, including theautumn/winter 2014 collections from board-sport labels Billabong and Santa cruz.

Select, meanwhile, is once again the areadedicated to niche and directional menswear andfootwear brands, and this season also features anexpanded line-up of accessories labels. Look outfor new lines from Gant, luxury hosiery from thelikes of Pantherella and calvin klein and rock-inspired accessories from Fanpac, alongsidenew season’s clothing ranges from Guide, Swade,Gabicci Vintage and Peter Werth.

—

PEREGRINE

CASA MODA

BLADENTIES

JANUARY 2014 | PROMOTION | 23

For information on all the latestsignings, full details of the catwalkand seminar programmes and toregister for your free ticket visitmoda-uk.co.uk.

For information on all the latestFor information on all the latest

MODA ONLINE

As well as being the complete guide to allModa shows, the Moda website –moda-uk.co.uk – is also the place to find thelatest news from exhibitors, find out moreabout both new arrivals and establishedbrands and arrange appointments at theshow. By registering free of charge to use thesite’s Community zone, you’ll be able toarrange appointments online, requestadditional information from suppliers aheadof the show, and network with brands 365days a year. Simply head to the site and click Community.

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SUNDAY BEST

If you’re visiting Moda on Sunday 16 February,make sure you dust off your finest threads asa team of undercover judges will be walkingthe aisles looking for Moda’s best dressedmale. The winner, announced on the Hall 20stage at 5pm, will be fully suited up courtesyof British menswear brand Gibson London.

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MODA AT YOURFINGERTIPS

This season’s Moda appis available to downloadnow, deliveringeverything you need toknow about the UK’slargest trade fashionexhibition directly intothe palm of your hand.Regularly updatedbetween now and theshow, the app features full exhibitor listings,plans of every sector of the show, details andtimes for all seminars and events, and willeven show you the fastest route between thebrands you want to see to ensure you get themost out of your time of the show. Simply visitthe app store and search for Moda Events.

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GET YOUR STORE RETAIL FIT FORTHE FUTURE

With more than 25 presentations taking placeover the duration of the show, Moda is yournumber one chance to hear expert advice on allthe latest innovations in retail, and get the insidestory on some of the biggest successes inindependent fashion.

Social media is one of the most cost-effectiveand measurable marketing tools available tobusinesses today, and yet there is still a lack ofconfidence in the marketplace to engage with thispowerful tool. SEO and e-commerce solutionsexpert Jonny Ross will be looking at the best wayfor you to get the most out of various social mediaplatforms including Twitter, Facebook, Instagramand Pinterest. The topic will also be covered bySimon Shepherd, director of strategic marketingnetwork NXO, whose presentation, SmarterMarketing, will be a must see for any retailer withgreat ideas but finite resources.

Other highlights include David Abbott,director of Insight Best Practice, who will betaking an equally practical but no less inspirationalapproach to e-commerce with his seminar, Tips forSuccessful E-tailing. The presentation will provideideas that every retailer selling online canimplement and profit from.

Moda’s Big Industry Debate series returns forFebruary, with two must-see debates taking placeon the Sunday and Monday of the show. Sunday’sevent will focus on the footwear industry, with apanel of leading retailers and industry expertsdebating the future of footwear retail. Monday,meanwhile, will see menswear’s finest taking to thestage with a look at how e-commerce hasrevolutionised business for some of the UK’s bestindependent stores.

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AUTUMN KICK OFF

Dr martens heads up the list of new arrivals atModa Footwear, with the iconic British brandcurrently enjoying a major fashion renaissance,bringing its full men’s, women’s and kids’collections to the show for the first time.Debuting in Select is the footwear range fromGant, with the area also seeing the return ofaccupuncture. Elsewhere at the show, look outfor new Portuguese footwear brand Paradigma,the return of Sorel and menswear retailfavourites including Base London, John White,Loake and Barkers.

—

DR MARTENS

BILLABONG

Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: [email protected] // carlgross.com

Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: [email protected] // carlgross.com

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 25

Luxury Italian tailoring label Pheres returns for autumn/winter 2014 with a series of deconstructed jacketoptions, taking a more casual direction to last season.

Using a mixture of traditional craftsmanship and British bespoke tailoring techniques, the latest collectionis set to cement the brand’s presence further in the premium menswear market. The new season also seesthe label extend its offer into handmade ties in five and seven folds, silk and cashmere scarves and linen andblend shawls, with each product coming with the signature of the designer.

Pheres also offers a bespoke tailoring service – where each item is fitted, cut and sewn to the shopper’smeasurements – with a selection of silk, wool, cashmere and Egyptian cotton, designed to be the epitome ofluxury fashion.

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G E N T

SIGNATURESTYLE


28 In-seasonFisherman’s friend

30 Survival of the knittedThe future of Johnstons of Elgin

33 A casual affair The success of lifestyle label Casamoda

36 New innings for Kent & Curwen The next step for the classic British brand

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 26

RADARSpotlighting style.

PRODUCT NEWSInside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 2006—SIGNATURE STYLE: Slim, tailored silhouettes very much at home inboth the boardroom and the pub, catering for the 35-55 year old man.—HISTORY: British tailoring label Regent was founded eight years agoand has since grown into a complete wardrobe offer for the malecontemporary fashion market.

Regent, a modern clothing label with British heritage at its core, willmake its debut at London trade show Jacket Required this season,showcasing its autumn/winter 2014 offering.

Established in 2006 by designer Jason Regent, the latest collectiondraws inspiration from Regent’s own grandfather, Frank. “A man of greatcharacter but moderate means, he emulated the traditions of highEnglish fashion he saw all around him, but always added a slightly wornand roguish panache of his own,” says Regent.

Utilising worsted wools and tweeds from mills across yorkshire andScotland, the collection offers suits, jackets and shirts cut with a slimsilhouette – jackets are designed with a slim sleeve and shape in theside seams, trousers with more room in the waist and slim through theback leg.

With a design ethos that has a directional edge whilst beingdeliberately understated with subtle choices of cloth, it is in theattention to detail where the collection really comes into its own.Complementing the latest range is a series of handmade ties, featuringbutterflies – inspired by the Regent’s son’s fascination with insects. www.regenttailoring.co.uk

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REGENT

SPLASHES OF COLOUR

Shirt specialist Jupiter presents anextensive collection this season, with thefocus firmly on a more subdued colourpalette – designed to work seamlesslywith the wearer’s current wardrobe.

Autumn/winter 2014 brings with it apalette comprising navy, marine, violet,taupe, camel, brick, burgundy and khaki,while flashes of brighter tones comefrom orange, red, jade and topaz.

Attention to detail is key, withcontrast stitching, matching buttonswith contrasting threads, colourmatching trims in inner cuffs and insidecolour bands, adding a certain panacheto the brand’s latest offering.

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BACK TO BASICS

For autumn/winter 2014, men’s contemporary footwearlabel Ohw? builds on its back-to-basics aesthetic with anew range of clean, pared-down designs which let thecraftsmanship, materials and detailing shine through.

A new capsule collection features three designson an architectural, sports-inspired sole unit with aleather range, aggressive tread and a hand-sprayedspeckled finish. Silhouettes in this collection, meanwhile,include a high-cut plain-front boot, a plain-front shoewith hidden lace and an open-lace shoe style. Keycolours are petrol blue, cordovan and black.

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AN ENGLISH TRADITION

Pantherella, the iconic English sock label, returns this seasonwith a comprehensive collection of stylish and high qualitywith a comprehensive collection of stylish and high qualitydesigns. Business Classics are a firm staple in the brand’s offer,focusing on yarns and textures, while also drawing inspirationfrom its archives to offer vintage styles and colour palettes.

The Business Modern range looks to more modern graphicdesign with polka dots, stripes, checks, houndstooth andgeometric prints in Merino wool. Colours include cumin, steelblue, sunshine yellow, bright green and traditional calico and black.

For a luxury element, this season sees the return of theEscorial range encompassing classic Birdseye jacquards, motifribs and houndstooth patchwork checks in Merino wool. TheLeisure Cashmere collection, meanwhile, sees argyle, Fair Isle,Birdseye, simple stripes and Prince of Wales check, and theClassic Cashmere collection offers solid colours in classic tones.

—


ON TREND

under the helm of new ceo and former creative director mark maidment,British mod label Ben Sherman returns to its roots this a/w 14 season.

Split into four key themes, the latest drop blends signature styles,fabrics and prints. The first story, Heritage DNA, encapsulates characteristicsof classic Ben Sherman including the parka coat and the Harrington, whichhas been fused with a mac to form the Harrington Mac. A 2-finger collar,meanwhile, has been applied to jersey polo shirts, which blends a classicfeature with an alternative fabric.

The second trend, British Outdoors, features a quilted bomber jacket,roll-neck sweaters, waffled cardigans and mouline knitted jumpers, alongsidea brand new foliage print for T-shirts and shirts.

British Sartorial, meanwhile, is the third trend to drop for the newseason, and sees the return of the oversized check applied to wool car coats,sitting on top of sharp tailoring and twill trousers. Trench coats are a highlightof the collection, while accessories reflect the trend with leather wallets andclassic holdall bags.

Finally, the fourth and final trend takes the iconic Ben Sherman look andcreates a more casual relaxed shape, featuring crew-neck jumpers over checkshirts and selvedge denim, all of which can be found at this month’s JacketRequired trade show. www.bensherman.com

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BranD To WaTcH

ESTABLISHED: 1963—SIGNATURE STYLE: The brand’s DNA is infused withmod heritage, retaining itssignature detailing such as box-back pleats, back-collarbuttons and locker-loops.—HISTORY:Iconic British label Ben Shermanhas weathered many seasons, andis re-emerging as a brand toreconsider this season under the newdirection of CEO Mark Maidment.

1 2

3 4

5

1: THOMPSON LONDONprice on request 020 7384 8336

2: PAUL SMITHRRP £55 0800 023 4006

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 30

SURVIVAL OF THEKNITTED

Cashmere specialist Johnstons of Elgin tumbled into the red in 2012 as it suffered a hangover from amilder 2011/12 winter in key markets including the UK. It has since achieved “significant recovery”,

following in-roads into new product categories – particularly across accessories – more focusedhigher-end private label work and raising the brand’s profile in its own right. Tom Bottomley finds out

more from managing director Nick Bannerman.—


in 2012, Johnstons of elgin had a pretty toughtime, what with a significant reforecasting froma major client after a mild winter, and efficiencyproblems with its woven plant taking its toll. But2013 saw a re-focus on the type of work the brandis taking on – being much more selective withwhom it is working with on the private label front,as well as investing further to develop high endaccessories. Greater emphasis on Johnstons ofElgin’s own label has also been key.

“The brand has been around since 1797 andis still family owned,” says managing director NickBannerman. “Heritage is very much in vogue atthe minute, and it’s obviously good news for us.But it’s not something that is just ‘of the moment’,because there has been a real sea-change in thelast couple of years with bigger and better-knownbrands ‘on-shoring’ again. They’re bringing backproduction from overseas, whether it’s beenEastern Europe or Asia, because their clients atthe higher end don’t want to open up a productand see it’s been made anywhere other than theUK and, in terms of cashmere and fine wools,specifically Scotland.”

Bannerman says the long-term view is allabout investing in the communities in which thebrand sits – in the north and south of Scotland.“We also have offices around the world, allowingus to take the brand forward in a controlledmanner, so we can get good exposure withJohnstons of Elgin product while also providing agood service for the wonderful array of privatelabel work we do. We don’t want to step on ourcustomers’ toes, so it’s an interesting balance thatwe now have to find.”

Bannerman notes that they have been havinga lot of interest of late from potential newcustomers for private label, but they have had tobe selective. “We’re looking at our own capacitiesat the minute and making sure we take on theright business.”

The company, which employs around 800people and has manufacturing plants at Elgin andHawick, declared that 2013 had “seen a significantrecovery” and that turnover was expected toexceed £50m again in the financial year to end of December.

The Johnstons of Elgin accounts signalledthat the tumble in turnover in 2012 resulted froma drop in UK sales. UK turnover fell from £38.16min 2011 to £33.3m in 2012. Turnover from exportsrose from £13.04m to £13.53m. The companynoted that the relatively mild winter of 2011/12 inthe UK had followed cold winters in 2009/10 and2010/11. Subsequently, orders were down and itobviously took the company a little by surprise,with carry-over stock held by many of the brand’scustomers.

Therefore, 2012 was a time to take a look atwhat could be changed, improved or added to the

business’ bow. In their report on the 2012accounts, the directors of Johnstons highlightedgrowth in business with Japan and French luxurybranded customers. The company's customersinclude Hermès and Chanel. “With those kind ofassociations, others recognise that we are thebest you can get if you want to make in the UK,”says Bannerman. “The knitwear is the biggestarea, of course, but our knitted accessories arealso a big growth area. There are also wovenaccessories, home interiors and cloth.”

As such, Bannerman says they are a one-stopshop for many private-label brands,” as well asnow being able to push their own brand at thehigher end of the market. “We’ve often beenknown as the name behind the name,” he says.“We’re a big supplier to Burberry on the wovenside, for instance. And private label has probablyrepresented 75-80 per cent of our business. Nowwe’re affirming our own branded presence. Notmassively – just in the right areas, to bring us outof the shadows, without bringing us purely frontand centre saying ‘it’s all about us’.”

For Bannerman it’s much more about steadygrowth. “There is a niche for the Johnstons label,but niche doesn’t have to be small,” he says. “It’sas big as fits the market.” As an example, they havedone work for Mulberry, which Bannerman saysis “a niche brand, but still a big brand.” Luxurybeing key.

“We want to gain some ground with our ownname, yes, but not at the expense of those whowe currently work with – that’s the secret,” saysBannerman. He also says they have taken somebusiness away from customers they have dealtwith in the past on private label, who do not sit atthe higher end of the market. “That’s createdsome space to fill with our own brand, and somenewer clients who are bringing production backon-shore and are happy to pay the premiums thatmade in the UK brings with it.”

A classic cashmere Johnstons of Elgin knit wholesales for around £100, so around £250retail in the UK. They have also recently made a knitted cashmere jacket, which wholesaled for more like £600 (and they produce jacketcloths for the likes of Lora Piana and Kiton). “Theprice isn’t an issue, but it’s even less of an issue when we’re dealing withcustomers overseas becausethe provenance is moreattractive,” says Bannerman.The cashmere jacketBannerman refers toapparently uses up to threekilos of cashmere yarn. “It’s aheavy outdoor jacket and apure luxurious piece,” he says. “And I think that’s where

perhaps we’re having more confidence – to say wemake beautiful classics, and we also have heritagepieces from the archive that are very much aniconic Johnstons ‘look’ that we’re concentratingmore on.”

According to Bannerman, the currentJohnstons of Elgin business is split 60/40 in favourof women’s to men’s across the group, but withindifferent markets it does vary – also with thevariation in knitted product as opposed to woven.“Across men’s and women’s products we’re nowconcentrating on targeting the higher endboutiques and independents,” he says. They havealso got Johnstons branded product in the likesof Harrods and Harvey Nichols – with the newknitted accessories.

“We’ve accelerated the accessories side inthe last three years, investing in the best kitavailable in the UK, and combining it with a lot ofhand-sewing skills and linking skills,” saysBannerman. “So you’re getting a combination ofgenerations of experience of hand-skills, with thebest machinery allied to design.”

What’s interesting, and indeed what is surelyhelping this new-found growth, is Johnstons ofElgin is now having clients, such as the couturehouses they are working with, coming to them andpushing the boundaries more. “It’s an oldestablished industry in textiles in Scotlandgenerally, but perhaps we’ve been resistant totake it further in the past,” says Bannerman.

“The Italians, for instance, are very open to trying new things, but perhaps in Scotlandwe’ve been more reticent. It’s changed over thelast two or three years, and we’ve pushed theboundaries of what we can manufacture. So we’vegot the traditional pieces, but also some technicalpieces and some lighter-weight pieces. We’re now making fantastic cashmere socks, gloves, hatsand scarves, which means we’re making about 10,000 pieces a week when you combinethem all. We’re also doing gloves for iPod use,which have a conductive yarn in the fingers so you can use touch screens without taking yourgloves off.”

In terms of taking the business forward andlooking at new ways to grow, it seems though that

Johnstons of Elgin has verymuch “taken the gloves off”and rolled up sleeves on thefactory floor, though. Whenthe going gets tough the old school needs to injectsome new school, and 2012’sjitters may well have been thewake up call this longestablished name needed tonot only survive, but thrive inthe future.www.johnstonscashmere.com

“The brand has beenaround since 1797 andis still family owned.Heritage is very muchin vogue at theminute, and it’sobviously good newsfor us. But it’s notsomething that is just‘of the moment’”



a caSuaL aFFaircasamoda, along with younger sister label Venti, has been making steady ripples in uk waters for a

number of seasons with its smart-casual lifestyle shirt and knitwear offering. With the opening of itsflagship uk and irish showroom in 2013 and the launch of an impressive logistics centre this year, it

seems now is the time to sit up and watch the German label create waves.—

Developing your product offer to suit the ever-changing retail market is no mean feat, yetunderstanding and reacting to consumer needsis something German shirt label casamodadoes, and does well.

Preparing to exhibit for the 12th time atModa – the UK’s largest trade fair – with what isset to be its biggest stand build to date, the brandis driving into the autumn/winter 2014 season with confidence.

Last year saw the opening of a brand newshowroom in Ireland run by Christian Lawlor andfather John Lawlor. And, with potential plans toopen a similar space in the UK, the next 12 monthswill see the label continue to cement itself furtherin the independent retail market.

Visiting the label’s new showroom space in Dublin, its brand message is cohesive and clearto see throughout – with large branding, a mixtureof sleek stone and wooden fittings and sampleduos merchandised in delivery drops, theshowroom presents the Casamoda lifestyle, notjust the name.

Separated between Casamoda on the toplevel of the two-story showroom and its younger,slimmer-cut sister label Venti on the lower groundfloor, its evident that, when it comes to this brand,no corners are cut – quintessentially German, ifyou like.

Established in 1924 in Oldenburg, Germany,the brand has 90 years of experience in textiles and cloth. Specialising in casual (split into Sport and Club) and business shirts (featuring both business and business

premium), as well as knitwear and accessories, the brand’s USP lies in its attention to detail andhigh quality, all the while retaining marginsattractive to independents riding the sectorschoppy waters.

“Casamoda and Venti offer an excellentquality at a good price, allowing retailers to havea good margin,” says Muriel Nègre-Wolmeringer,head in international sales. “Even though we countourselves as a lifestyle collection, our biggeststrength lies in our casual shirt and knitwearcategories. All our shirts are still produced in ourown factories in Europe, including a factory inMacedonia, using designs created by us andtherefore exclusive to us.”

Summing up the competition, Nègre-Wolmeringer explains, “We sit confidentlyalongside other smart-casual lifestyle brands thatare on the market at the moment.

“Gant and Tommy Hilfiger, for example, areboth very strong brands but, in some cases,retailers struggle to get full margins on theseproducts because of price,” he continues. “We aimto provide a quality smart-casual look, suited tothis sort of customer, but that has a competitiveretail price offering a strong margin.”

Alongside the debut of a brand newshowroom, the last 12 months have also seen the opening of a new logistics centre in its native Germany, with the capacity of hold twomillion shirts.

“From the start of this year we are workingwith one of the most modern warehouses inEurope,” says Nègre-Wolmeringer. “This

investment is the basis for not only our long-termdevelopment in Germany, but also in our export market.”

With over 250 stockists to date across the UKand Ireland, Casamoda’s popularity withindependents sits with its comprehensive NOSstock programme – stronger this season than everbefore. The new NOS collection includes a multi-coloured check in three colourways – naturaland blue, light blue and blue, and red and blue.Another highlight includes the denim shirt withcheck facings, contrasting tapes and speciallydeveloped buttons.

A new addition to the collection is theCasamoda Modern Fit, produced in line with themarket demand for a “‘fitted torso”. Suitable forsmaller sizes, the chest, back, shoulder and armwidths have all been reduced while the backlength, waist and hem width remain the same.

Sister label Venti, meanwhile, will welcomecategories such as Venti Black Label – city shirtsmade of non-iron fabric and a slim-fit shape;Limited Edition, comprising premium fabrics, 60s-inspired prints and luxe detailing; and VentiTartan, a new category this season that sees theintroduction of Scottish checks based on variousclan patterns.

The year ahead will no doubt bring manychallenges for brands and retailers alike and, whileCasamoda is no less bulletproof than anyone else,its reactive nature and response to retailerdemand is what makes it a name to catch.—www.casamoda.com

CASAMODA




NEW INNINGsfOr KENT & CUrWEN

Classic British brand Kent & Curwen, famous for making university, club and regimental ties andtraditional cricket jumpers, is being given a fresh makeover by Us company and licence-holder BritishHeritage Brands – complete with a new 1,600 sq ft savile row shop. Tom Bottomley gets hit for six by

the label’s new image.—

At the end of October last year, Kent & Curwenopened its brand new flagship shop at 2 savilerow, next door to Gieves & Hawkes. It’s fittingfor a brand that dates back to 1926, perhapsmade even more fitting because savile row wasindeed the meeting place of one Eric Kent andDorothy Curwen in 1924.

Relaunched as a collection in autumn/winter2013, with a concession in Harrods no less, Kent &Curwen is now licensed to British HeritageBrands, by owner Trinity Limited, the high-endluxury menswear subsidiary arm of Hong Kong-based Fung Holdings Limited, which also countsGieves & Hawkes in its portfolio.

US-based British Heritage Brands now holds the licence to design, produce and sell

goods bearing the Kent & Curwen name in theWestern Hemisphere. London is the first ofseveral planned openings, with New Yorkfollowing in early spring 2014.

What began as a collection of ties and cricketsweaters has grown into one of the most storiedsporting brands in England, long worn bymembers of the British Royal Family andHollywood icons. The new store launchshowcased the autumn/winter 2013 collection,which consisted of classic timeless pieces with amodern interpretation of fit and fabrication.

With an eye towards both the contemporaryand traditional, fitted tailoring, sartorial outerwear,luxurious knitwear and selvedge jeans, Mr Kentwould surely be choking on his cheese and

cucumber sandwich at the very thought of jeans. But it’s all in line with taking the stuffinessout of such an English classic brand and marketing it to a new conscientious customer whoappreciates tradition but wants a modern-day take on it.

British Heritage Brands’ owner andpresident, Craig Reynolds, who is based in NewYork, says, “We started up in 2011 with the purposeof finding iconic British brands that needed the‘dust blown off’, so to speak, and we wanted tobring them back to life for a modern consumer.Kent & Curwen is the first label we have taken on.A British brand born in 1926 that has not beensignificant in the marketplace in the UK and theUS for many years. Our plan is to expand in both


our own retail stores and in better departmentand speciality stores.” That’s independents to us Brits.

Reynolds says he currently jokes that theyshould be known as British Heritage Brand – noplural – as they currently have just Kent & Curwensigned up under licence. But there areopportunities to add other heritage labels to theportfolio in the future. “We are always on thelookout for great brands that could also have thedust blown off them and made relevant for today,”he says.

First and foremost, Reynolds sees greatpotential for Kent & Curwen, especially with thewords “British” and “heritage” having suchresonance on a wider global market. “Globally, thebrand is not well-known,” he says. “There are anumber of people who remember the label inEngland from its earlier incarnation and, of course,it is well-known in Asia. We hope to raise theawareness through our partnerships with the beststores and the opening of flagships in major cities,as well as through comprehensive advertisingcampaigns in both traditional platforms and viadigital media.”

The offer of ties and cricket jumpers has, ofcourse, been expanded to include allclassifications of menswear. While production isno longer in England, Reynolds says they do buyfabrics from a number of British mills.

“Our look is a blending of sportswear withsome tailoring, so we have an emphasis onouterwear, knits and shirts with a good amount ofjackets and suits to bring it all together,” saysReynolds. “Our target market is a man in his mid-30s. Jackets go for £650 retail, knitwear £300-£400, ties £75 and shirts around £125. Weshowcased for the first time at LondonCollections: Men, and we are very much lookingto build our distribution and presence in the UK

heritage had never been so popular, especially in the Far East and America. But by 1982 Kent & Curwen was taken over by Swiss tradingcompany Giselle. Through the merger, Kent &Curwen was introduced to the huge Japanesecompany D’Urban, with whom a trading agent was formed. Kent & Curwen subsequentlylaunched its autumn collection in Japan. Therange included (in addition to the ties and knits)shirts, jackets, trousers, raincoats, accessories andleather goods.

In 1983 the brand opened a store at 39 StJames’s Street, close to Piccadilly Circus, and asecond shop on Copthall Avenue in the City ofLondon. In the same year, Diana, Princess ofWales, was photographed sporting a Kent &Curwen baseball cap and, in 1986, Kent & Curwenbecame the official UK apparel licence for theWimbledon Championships. So a tad earlier thanone Mr Ralph Lauren got in on the act, thoughthere’s no doubting Ralph’s done a fine job.

Kent & Curwen expanded into the “fashiontie” business and export market, later signing alucrative deal to supply Tie Rack, though not necessarily in keeping with the brand’stradition (or indeed credibility). In 2006 it openeda shop on Conduit Street, but it was to last onlyuntil 2009.

Then 2011 saw the opening of a shop at thePiccadilly end of Burlington Arcade, before the all-new Savile Row premises became the focal pointfor London retail at the end of last year – full circlefrom the meeting place of Mr Kent of MissCurwen, with a brand once again out to make itsmark on menswear. On Savile Row, Reynoldsconcludes, “As a brand that began in 1926, itseemed as though the home of British menswearwas the appropriate place to celebrate itsheritage,” he says. The colours may change, butthe Kent & Curwen flag keeps flying.

market for autumn/winter 2014.”Prior to his current role, Reynolds was the

chief apparel merchant for Converse, havinglaunched the apparel division of thebrand. Before that, he spent 15 years at TommyHilfiger, helping to build the label globally. “Ibegan my career in retail at a wonderfuldepartment store in the US called Burdines, whichis sadly no longer around,” he says. Perhapsthere’s a certain sense of irony in his comment inthat British Heritage Brands is very much tryingto make sure Kent & Curwen does stay around,albeit in this new, more aggressive and design-ledformat that befits the 21st century.

If Mr Kent wouldn’t be choking on hissandwich with news that the brand he started withMiss Curwen (incidently they married in 1932) nowmaking selvedge jeans, she would surely bespluttering out her Earl Grey tea on it no longerbeing English owned. But that’s a trend that, alas,continues with many an old British name, be itBelstaff, Matchless, Baracuta or another old SavileRow legendary name, Hardy Amies (Fung Capitalbeing behind that particular acquisition too). Itseems the potential of the whole Brit thing isthere for the taking, but no Brits are doing thetaking. Nonetheless, it’s good to see that oldBritish names are being taken forward and givennew leases of life.

In truth, it’s a long time since Eric Kent andDorothy Curwen were involved in the business.Kent died of tuberculosis at the age of 46 inFebruary 1939, before the outbreak of WWII. Hisnephew, Jack Kent, started working at thecompany in 1943. Kent & Curwen had involvementin the London 1948 Olympics. Dubbed theAusterity Games, as so broke was the UK afterWWII, Kent & Curwen, via British merchantsVanners, created club ties for English delegates.Two other heritage brands still in operation today also contributed – Coxmoore made knits forthe British hockey team and Walsh providedsprinting shoes.

Dorothy Curwen retired from the business in1968. Jump forward to 1981 and Kent & Curwensupplied the wardrobe for the principal cast of theOscar-winning film Chariots of Fire. British

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JANUARY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 39

B R A N DG U I D E

40 Brand newsLaunches and developments for a/w 14

46 fade to greyThe shade of the season

50 Polar expressCatering for the urban explorer

52 Check mateTartans, Prince of Wales and houndstooth

54 long shotThe return of the overcoat

56 Hell for leatherRediscovering the wardrobe staple

sEAsONAl sTYlEYour definitive guide to autumn/winter 2014, from the developments across mainstream menswear

to the emerging trends of the new season.—

BUGATTI

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | BRANDS | 40

BranD neWSThe latest developments in menswear forautumn/winter 2014.—

BENVENUTO

Benvenuto’s a/w 14 collection celebrates the boundlesspotential of the signature suit. Classic designs have beenreinterpreted, and buyers can expect a host of new features,including patch pockets, peaked lapels and contrast buttons.Suits can be teamed with scarves, woollen ties and pocketkerchiefs for a smart, urban look. The collection also featuresversatile blazers, coats and trousers in a range of materials.Its shirts are finished with woven ribbons, contrast seams andelegant buttons. —

RAGING BULL

Raging Bull moves into the new season with a confident newcollection, inspired by the honesty and courage of the rugbyplayer. Aimed at younger customers, the Away Day Championline features button-down collar shirts layered with Fair Islesweaters and coloured chinos. Gentleman and Player’s keypieces, meanwhile, include a herringbone jacket and quarterzip knitwear. The label has also updated its best-selling gilet,adding suedette shoulders and a host of stylish new features. —

OLYMP

Structures dominate Olymp’s latest collection. Inshirts, this theme translates as twill, small checksand whipcord weave. Knitwear’s structures arebolder, ranging from half-cardigan stitch to peacockand pineapple. The classic range, meanwhile,features elegant woven fabrics, fine spins and smallprints. The shirt specialist has opted forunderstated colour palettes, placing particularemphasis on red, emerald, cognac and petrolshades. Decorative linings, coordinating buttonsand sharply-cut collars complete each design. —

CARL GROSS

Suit-specialist Carl Gross introduces a new silhouette for a/w 14. Dubbed Sharp Fit, this slim cut is aimed squarely atthe style-conscious modern gentleman. Steeper shoulders,pointed lapels and printed linings complete the look. Therange’s jackets can be worn to the office or out for drinks,while its waistcoats and waistcoat inserts come in contrastingnylon and colour coordinating flannel. A muted colourpalette, featuring greys, blues, greens and shades of red, setsthe tone for the new season. —

JANUARY 2014 JANUARY 2014 | GENT | BRANDS | 41

JOHN SMEDLEY

The a/w 14 season sees knitwearspecialist John Smedley draw itsinspiration from family vacations in the 30s. Taken from photoalbums found in the brand’sarchive, when Ian Maclean –grandfather to the brand’s currentmanaging director – travelled tothe Tyrol on skiing trips, as well asto New York and Amsterdam. Eachgarment in the latest collection hasbeen drawn from images andpictures the design team cameacross, from the geometricarchitecture to the chunky skigarments worn at the time.—

REALM AND EMPIRE

Inspired by the artists and social movements of theFirst World War, Realm and Empire’s a/w 14collection comprises two innovative lines. TheOfficer range features elegant, expertly finishedpieces, with a wool tweed topcoat, two-tone clubcollar shirt and smart slim-leg trousers numberingamong the highlights. The Tommy Line, meanwhile, is informed by the honest workwear ofthe regular soldier. Jerseywear is stone or acidwashed for a laidback aesthetic, while quiltedlinings and patchwork pockets contribute to the“make-do-and-mend” feel. —

CAMEL ACTIVE MENSWEAR

Dubbed Crafted Evolution, Camel Active’s a/w 14 collectiontakes its inspiration from the culture of the nomadic Samipeople. The range is a marriage of the traditional and thecontemporary, with emphasis placed firmly on minimalism. Keypieces include leather bomber jackets, herringbone pants andchunky-knit cardigans. Parkas feature fur-trimmed hoods, hornbuttons and a Gore-tex membrane. The collection’s understatedcolour palette, meanwhile, comprises berries, greys and petrolhues – another nod to the world of the Sami. —

JOULES

Following the successfulreaction to its s/s 14 collection,Joules is set to deliver a sizeablehelping of British countryheritage for the new season. Thebrand will usher in the newseason with relaxed jersey tweedjackets and shirts in checks,tartans and hand-drawn prints. Aversatile outerwear collection,meanwhile, comprises heavytweeds, bomber jackets andquilted “shackets” in rich autumncolours. The range also featurestextured knits, festive jumpersand a bag collection co-designedby Harris Tweed. —

>>>

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | BRANDS | 42

BRÜHL

German label Brühl has been synonymouswith fine trousers since 1923, and a/w 14 isno different. Detailing is key, with colourcoordinated buttons and on-trend liningsbringing each classic design up-to-date. The range features weathered five-pocketjeans, and trousers in gabardine, corduroyand cotton with a velvet finish. Colours are understated; buyers can expect blues,greens and warm spice hues. Sporty,functional and modern, it aims to “cover allbases”.

SKOPES

British label Skopes returns for a/w 14 with a collection of classic tailoredwardrobe staples. Key pieces include the Leyburn Jacket, a countrycheck jacket with straight flap pockets, side vents, tonal lining and built-inpocket hankie. The Reeth jacket, meanwhile, is a velvet style with slantedpockets, side vents and contrast scoop lining, while the Ronson dinnersuit jacket features a jetted ticket pocket, peak lapel with two buttonholes, centre vent and satin trim around pockets and lapel. —

MEYER

Like previous collections, Meyer’s a/w 14 range comprises threekey categories – Comfort, Premium and Modern. Silhouettesremain slim, while on-trend pocket linings and matching buttonselevate each design. Reflecting Meyer’s core values, Comfortfeatures trousers in sporty twill, robust panama and durableManchester cord. Premium boasts a range of fine materials,including cotton, velvet, wool and flannel. Meyer Modern,meanwhile, is a more contemporary line, consisting of prints,coloured denim and new two-tone materials.—

MADDOX STREET

Inspired by English tradition,Maddox Street’s signature use ofLiberty prints continues to stand at the core of its a/w 14 offering.The new season brings with it acomprehensive collectioncomprising jackets, waistcoats,trousers, shirts and knitwear, alldesigned and presented in co-ordinating outfits. Quirky detailsenhance the noble yarns and fabrics,while colours range from jewel-likeshades to rich autumnal hues.—

www.gucinari.co.uk

DEDICATED TO STYLE


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www.parkalondon.com [email protected]

JANUARY 2014 | GENT | TRENDS | 46

fADE TO GrEY

One of the most versatile items in a gent’s wardrobe, the grey suit, makesits return to tailoring this season in a plethora of shades and silhouettes.With a colour palette comprising graphite through to silver, the key to addinginterest to this tone-on-tone trend is through fabrics, cuts and textures.Figure-hugging cuts are presented by the likes of Roy Robson and AtelierTorino, featuring patch pockets, side vents and ticket pockets, while the focusTorino, featuring patch pockets, side vents and ticket pockets, while the focusfor many brands this a/w 14 season has turned to innovation in materials.Guide London, for example, introduces Austrian fabrics for its shirtingcategory, including Oxford styles featuring jacquards, double collars andcotton sateen finishes. Moving away from the structured silhouette of thetailored suit slightly, single and double breasted knitted blazers in grey tonesadd a causal element to smart tapered trousers, with similar styles spottedat the likes of Purple Label by Benvenuto and German brand Olymp.

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sTYlE sPOTTINGThe key trends and themes to emerge for autumn/winter 2014.—


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“Close to 50 shades of grey are set to dominatethe tailoring category this a/w 14, with a colourpalette ranging from steel to graphite, silverand melange”

“Close to 50 shades of grey are set to dominatethe tailoring category this a/w 14, with a colourpalette ranging from steel to graphite, silverand melange”

AUTUMN / WINTER 2014/15 � JANUARY 14TH - 16TH 2014

KÜHLHAUS LUCKENWALDER STRASSE 3 10963 BERLIN

WWW.SEEKEXHIBITIONS.COM

SEEK


While the British weather hardly presents conditions similar to that of theArctic, the Polar Express trend does capture the need for versatile,weather-proof outerwear for the country’s unpredictable winters.Outerwear – namely the parka and padded jacket – is the obvious leadingcategory in this trend, with features such as shape memory spotted at Jupiterand the inclusion of Gore-tex® membrane at Camel Active adding value interms of protection and function. Of course, layering is key to any Britishseasonal wardrobe, with tailoring labels such as Magee and Carl Grosspresenting padded waistcoats and gilets. Robust and masculine are just twoof the buzzwords used to describe this trend. In terms of detailing, buyerscan expect patch pockets for quilted jackets, leather details, thick knittedwelt cuffs, quilted woollen linings and real and faux fur trimmings, while blues,reds and browns create the core colour palette.

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“Designed somewhat for the urban explorer,changing climates depict the need for technicalouterwear and clever layering for the gent around town”

“Designed somewhat for the urban explorer,changing climates depict the need for technicalouterwear and clever layering for the gent around town”


Checks become an eclectic addition to a/w 14’s print offering, and whilemuted block colouring will always be essential to a man’s wardrobe,prints and patterns such as Prince of Wales, herringbone and plaid areset to rejuvenate the mainstream market.Trouser specialist Atelier Gardeur, for example, presents its BritishHeritage theme, which incorporates tartan woollen trousers featuring flappockets, robust pocket lining and discreet leather labels. In terms ofsuiting, Digel showcases a houndstooth pattern throughout its NottingHill story, appearing on sports jackets, trousers and shirts, whileBenvenuto Black Label and Joules both offer country-inspired checks insingle-breasted blazers.

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An alternative to the robust outerwear mentioned previously, the overcoatis set to be a highlight of the a/w 14 season. Neutral tones and structured silhouettes seen at the likes of German labels CarlGross and Purple Label by Benvenuto give this garment the ability to slot intocurrent wardrobes seamlessly, while brands such as Merc draw inspiration from70s Mod culture, teaming its camel overcoat with lightweight woollen polo necksand slim-fitting denims. Traditional tailoring label Skopes, meanwhile, presentsone of its key styles, the Pimlico – a long-line overcoat with straight flap pockets,notch lapel and contrast undercollar felt.

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following a noticeable absence from the mainstream market for a fewseasons, leather is back in abundanceacross the board.New to the Digel collection for a/w 14, theleather jacket becomes available in softlamb nappa, while particular attention ispaid to the tanning process, which keepsthe leather free from damaging chromiumVI. Contemporary label, Cinque, meanwhileintroduces leather into its outerwearcollection in a quilted blouson shape withprinted jersey lining. Trousers also play apart in this trend and, while PU coatingstake precedence over genuine leather atboth G Design and Aleberto, the grunge-inspired element is still paramountthroughout both collections.

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JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 59

Following a successful spring/summer 2014, denim specialist Blue Collar Worker has made its online debut,and is now available through www.tigerleash.com.

With a collection of 17 pieces, the brand uses premium-quality ring-spun denim, taking its influence fromwork and military wear from the 30s, 40s and 50s. Despite each piece being given a modern twist in terms offabrics and silhouettes, the design team never loses sight of the fact that these are true utilitarian pieces,constructed to function in the workplace.

Focus is given to functional, practical pieces, coupled with an overt attention to detail in terms of garmentconstruction and finish. Pockets are lined and re-enforced with hidden rivets and bar tacks, while seams are2-ply stitched for added strength.

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D E N I M & S T R E E T

rHYTHm ANDBlUEs


62 In-seasonLife in black and white

65 G star heads centralThe denim label opens on Oxford Street

67 East is EastThe brands to catch at Jacket Required

74 The young and the restless Highlights from this season’s contemporary menswear offer

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 60

PrODUCT NEWsInside menswear.

A key part of the O’Neill’s O’riginals range, the brand’s collaboration withAmerican clothing label Pendleton launches for a/w 14.

The two brands, both leaders in their fields, have teamed up to createa capsule collection of premium products – each piece designed to becomea future style classic.

A blend of signature Pendleton wool placements on fashion-forwardsilhouettes, alongside O’Neill’s innovative edge, the collection compriseshighlights such as the Penwool shirt – a modern interpretation of the classic60s boardshirt and the Penwool jacket – a vintage-style parka, teaming aniconic Pendleton-check wool lining with O’Neill Hyperdry technology andThinsulate™ insulation.

The O’Riginals range itself, meanwhile, uses premium vintage-washedfabrics with a strong focus on style and attention to detail: expect trims,special labels and finishes. This collection features graphics, prints and stylingacross tees, shirts, crews, jackets and slim-fit pants in a muted palette of deepred, indigo, washed-out black and grey and military green. www.oneill.com

BrAND TO WATCH

O’NEILL xPENDLETON

SLIP-ON STYLE

Following its successful international launch, US labelHickies is making its debut this season with its patentedlacing system that replaces traditional shoelaces. Thespecially designed, high-grade elasticated componentshave been designed to allow the wearer to turn any shoeinto a slip-on.

The system has been engineered to withstand theforces of various activities and to fit a wide range of shoesand comfort levels.

Launched in 2011, Hickies is now sold in 13 countriesworldwide and is currently in the process of expanding itsproduct range further.

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THE CLASSIC COURT

Footwear label K Swiss, the Californian lifestyle brand that launched its Classic leather tennis shoe in the US in 1966, is re-releasing itsClassic Court trend for 2014.

The court collection offers an expansion of K-Swiss’ exclusive styles, in white, deep green, navy and grey, and featuring the traditional detailing of the K-Swiss original court style, with premiumleathers, patent leathers, cotton twill, the 5-stripe tape and microperforation. This season also sees the re-launch of two of its mostcelebrated styles – the Lozan III and the Classic Mid II.

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MAKERS AND DOERS

British label Makers LDN waslaunched in 2012 by designerMelody Maker following a numberof years honing her craft at variousmenswear brands. With arecognisable style of quirky digitalprints, the brand offers T-shirts andbeanies – developed for both themale and female market.

Designed for 18-35 year olds,the brand draws inspiration fromMaker’s travels between the UKand California, where she lives partof the year. “All of my designs havean essence of the two placesmerged together,” she explains.

Future plans include therelease of two more ready-to-wearranges, alongside a number ofpotential collaborations, details of which will be released later this year.

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ON TrENd radarSpotlighting style.

ESTABLISHED: 2013—HISTORY: The brainchild of business partners Maryline Vigouroux andK-riss Dassieu, the East London brand was born out of a passion fordesign, style and music. —SIGNATURE STYLE: With its roots firmly placed in the skateboarding,graffiti and hip-hop sub-cultures; Disizsick has tapped into theseinfluences to make its streetwear debut.

Established earlier last year, streetwear label disizsick is already makingwaves in the youth market with its clever play on iconic visuals acrosstees, caps and vests.

Embracing the signature dNA of American hip-hop, the collectionfeatures prints, graphics and motifs of the likes of Mickey Mouse andPharaoh heads, while skateboard decks incorporate screamingmarijuana leafs.

Future plans for the brand include international expansion intomarkets including china, Australia, New zealand and the Us. The nexttwelve months will also see an increased product offering to includejackets, beanies, baseball jerseys, hoodies and shirts, as well as thelaunch of a womenswear collection.

“We had been toying with the idea of starting a clothing line forsome time,” says kriss dassieu, co-founder of disizsick. “After muchresearch and looking at what else was out on the market, we feltconfident it was time to put our designs out there, and make themknown. Our biggest goal for 2014 is to make our streetwear brandknown nationally, with several stockists in the Uk,” he adds.

Wholesale prices range from £10.25 for caps to £26 for sweaters.www.disizsick.com

disizsick

ESTABLISHED: 2014—HISTORY: Launched in 1952,surfwear label O’Neill has sincedeveloped from the founder ofthe wetsuit into a completewardrobe offer, launching itsfirst collaboration withAmerican label Pendleton forautumn/winter 2014. —SIGNATURE STYLE:Combining classic Pendletonwool placements with O’Neill’sauthentic styling. —

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5: FRANKLIN ANDMARSHALL£12.50 020 7488 1380

Seasonal extras: Belts

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life inBlack and White


With a striking sense of simplicity, monochrome returns for anotherseason, this time in a series of 80s-inspired streetwear designs.—

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

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CLAE £49 020 7720 5050

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clearer. it’s a 3d approach, and customers tend togo directly to the silhouette they like. it makes thewhole process much faster.”

There are also five “jeans stations”, which havea touch-screen computer, on each floor. so if theshop is packed and customers want to go throughthe options themselves, and see the styles anddifferent washes on screen before they try on,then that’s another option. it’s almost like bringinga touch of the Apple store to denim retailing.

But why men’s on the ground floor andwomen’s downstairs? “We have good experiencewith that,” says de Nijs. “Our store in Amsterdamhas the women’s downstairs, and it’s verysuccessful. it’s more intimate. it’s a more boutiqueatmosphere and, from our experience, women aremore likely to venture downstairs. For the ladies,there are also dressing rooms that can open tohave two spaces – both with mirrors – becausegirls like to try things on with friends. Men aremore direct, and likely to be put off walking into ashop and seeing women’s styles.”

There are plans to open further stores in theUk. All the G-star shops in the Uk are withfranchise partners. The new one on Oxford streethas again been achieved in partnership withdiffusion, which also has the carnaby street andcovent Garden stores, as well as others inBirmingham, Manchester and cardiff in afranchise portfolio that has now hit 11. Xile inscotland also has four franchise stores. in factthere are 17 G-star franchise stores in the Uk, andanother is due to open in Brighton this spring. Onthe whole, there’s only one G-star shop that isn’ta franchise, and that’s the one in Amsterdam,

JANUARY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PROFILE | 65

With standalone shops on carnaby Street and incovent Garden, you might think G-Star hasenough retail presence in london’s West end,especially when you consider it’s a major denimsupplier to Selfridges, too. But that’s not stoppedthe brand from turning a few heads and openinga 5,380 sq ft flagship store over two floors on Oxfordstreet, selling both men’s and women’s denims.

so why is Oxford street right for G-star?remco de Nijs, the label’s global brand manager,who has been with the label since 1997, has the answer. “First of all, London is a key city for us,”he says. “As a denim brand it’s important to have astrong presence here. As a company i think we’reready to be located on a high-footfall high street.We also thought it would be interesting to give apremium approach to a busy high-street location.”

The new shop, located at 272-274 Oxfordstreet, close to both Oxford circus and Bondstreet Underground stations, is focused onproduct. “it’s a high level of service we’re giving,”says de Nijs. “customers are greeted by a ‘host’,who leads them to a denim curator. That’s theperson who knows everything about denim who can help customers find what they’re lookingfor efficiently.”

There are also “runners” who go back andforth to the mezzanine floor stock room – which iscompletely “on show” to anyone coming in theshop – to bring the right sizes and styles. “it’sabout the whole experience – and that’s veryimportant,” says de Nijs. “We’ve made it mucheasier for the consumer because we’ve ‘visualised’the whole denim wall, with half mannequins thatmean you can see the style, fit and wash much

which serves as a testing ground for differentretail concepts and products.

G-star celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2014,and the new collection will feature original G-star-favourite styles from the brand’s past such as UsLumber, Us First and Elwood. “They’re going tobe in the same streaky raw red listing fabric fromJapan, as were the originals,” says de Nijs. Theywill retail for around £169. “We also have a 25 ozselvedge denim in the Elwood, which looksbeautiful and shows our expertise in premiumquality denim.”

indeed, though G-star is now on Oxfordstreet, its prices are far from your average high-street shop, or indeed from other denim brandsretailing anywhere nearby. its raw Essentials linecontinues to raise the bar in terms of design andprice point, as does the ongoing collaborationwith designer Marc Newson, which has now comeinto its own as a separate premium offer.

Jonas Bach, G-star raw sales director forEurope and the Uk, also believes the wholesalemarket for the brand in the Uk has undergone abig turnaround. “i came in to deal with the Ukmarket around three to four years ago,” he says.“We hadn’t dropped in turnover, but dropped interms of image and coolness. We had become bigwith a few multiple retailers, and decided to cutback and clean it up – and make space for moreretail stores with the right franchise partners.”

The wholesale business is still big businessfor the brand, of course. And the Oxford streetstore now leads the way in terms of new design,layout and approach to denim retailing, as G-starups the stakes on the high street.

G Star headS central

it wouldn’t be a call that many would make for a brand that has been trying to claim back some imagecredibility in the Uk in more recent years, but G-Star raw has just opened on Oxford Street – one ofthe busiest shopping destinations in the world. tom Bottomley finds out the thinking behind such a

major move from G-Star raw’s global brand manager, remco de nijs.—


JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | CONTENTS | 67

J A C K E TR E Q U I R E D

68 the essential line-up Nine of the key brands to check out for autumn/winter 2014

70 finish lineNames to discover in accessories and add-ons

72 Pick of the bunchMenswear insider Tom Bottomley highlights six brands to watch

at the show

eaSt iS eaStMWB presents its comprehensive guide to the latest edition of london trade show Jacket required,

running on 5-6 february at the Old truman Brewery, Brick lane e1. —

RAINS

JANUARY 2014 | JACKET REQUIRED | BRANDS | 68

47 BRAND

Lifestyle label 47 Brand continues to drawinspiration from its sporting roots this seasonwith its extensive collection of headwear andapparel. Founded in 1947, the brand was createdto give sports fans in Boston a way of showingtheir loyal support through apparel – and todaythe brand is one of the leading labels in sportslicenced clothing. The a/w 14 season welcomesthe addition of the college collection withUniversity of Harvard, Yale, kentucky and Notredame adorning dug out jackets, crew necks,Melton wool caps, beanies, classic and cleansnapbacks and scrum logo tees. —

MERC

With a nod to its 60s and 70s archive, Merc’s a/w 14collection is one of its strongest, captured byphotographer dean chalkley – best known forhis portraits of Paul Weller, Amy Winehouse and,most recently, Jake Bugg. sharp tailoring is key,while slim silhouettes are juxtaposed withvintage-inspired knitwear. Outerwear reigns, withtartan-lined donkey jackets and heavyweightparkas at the front of the collection. Otherhighlights include geometric print shirts, Alpineand Fair isle pattered knits and paisley detailing,in a colour palette of powder blue, brick red,muted mustard, maroon and cobalt blue.—

PARKA LONDON

in-keeping with its signature design ethos, Parka London welcomes the return of a classicsilhouette mixed with modern detailing for a/w 14.This season sees a subtle nod towardsscandinavian styling, emulating clean lines andsimplistic detailing – a style that continues to bea popular trend in menswear. Attention to detailis key with detachable linings, button-off faux-furtrims and hardware and button finishes featuringthroughout. Highlights include the Noah parka(pictured); the Milo long-line parka in charcoalgrey with detachable hood and wax coating; andfinally the Eli, a textured wool blazer in navy.—

the eSSential

line-UPMarking a return to its native east london, Jacket required’s sixth edition sees its biggest line-up to

date, with a brand new extended show space and a raft of unmissable names in contemporary anddirectional menswear. here are nine brands to catch at the autumn/winter 2014 show.

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PALLADIUM

A/w 14 sees boot label Palladium draw upon itsFrench heritage and military roots to update itsmen’s collection with new silhouettes and designelements. The latest drop sees the introductionof premium upper materials to its classic styles,including patterned ballistic nylon, military blanketfelt and rich waterproof leathers. The new seasonalso welcomes the expansion of the Wintersport collection with updated designs and freshcolourways. Finally, there’s the introduction of thePampa Hi cuff, constructed from 20oz canvas,with an added leather cuff at the boot collar.—

DENHAM

According to contemporary label denham, itsa/w 14 offering takes its influence from “images ofdark stormy seas and wave-hammered industrialcoastlines”. in its menswear collection, a courier’sgreatcoat in Germany triggered the creation ofthe new Gelmok parka and technical sumakMackintosh trench. Meanwhile, shawl-collaredFeral trench coats are lightly padded, lined withtartan and built from structured twill and cottonduck canvas or thick loden wool. The brand’sdenim offer also sees two new fit programmes –the 5-pocket classic fit and the 7-point pocket.—

LIGHTNING BOLT

The focus for Us surfwear specialist LightningBolt is on durable and comfortable fabrics this season. Featuring a impressive range offabrics, the collection comprises soft fleece,ultra-light waterproof nylon for French goosedown insulated jackets, heavy and durableshetland and Melton wool fabrics for jackets and knits, cosy flannels, cashmere, Merino andlambswool and hefty canvas twills and corduroy.in terms of colour, this season’s palette takes its cue from deep coastal American earthytones, North sea blues, deep forest greens andsun-washed patinas.—

HARRY STEDMAN

since its launch in 2011, London label Harrystedman has grown quite the cult following withits vintage 50s Americana styling, especially withits classic Golden Bear collaboration varsityjackets. The a/w 14 collection draws its influencefrom the workwear found in Us shipyards, and isdesigned to serve a purpose and protect thewearer against outdoor elements. contemporaryin fit, while classic in look, the latest offeringfrom the fledging label includes chore jackets,classic peacoats, leather and donegal tweedjackets, multi-pockets overshirts, Gansey knitand American-made 5-pocket blue jeans. —

NATIC MARINE

The focus for Japanese label Natic Marine thisseason continues to be its namesake marine style.inspired by yacht fittings, navy uniforms and sea-related materials, the a/w 14 collection’spalette focuses on navy, grey melange andwhite. The brand’s outwear category featuresjackets and coats in compressed Melton,embellished with woven stripes on the sleevesand inside hem, while tops are mostlycharacterised by indigo colour and made fromcotton flannel and printed fabrics. in addition,the brand combines various materials includingcut and saw, faux fur, boa and flannel.—

RAINS

returning to the event for a/w 14, scandinavianlabel rains will showcase its comprehensivecollection of outerwear and accessories.drawing inspiration from the everyday life ofcopenhagen living, functionality of its signaturerainwear is mixed with cool and contemporarydetails. in order to expand the collection to awider market – which now caters for both themale and female shopper – the brand has addedthree interpretations of classic outerwear to itsa/w 14 offering. These include the Mac coat, theA jackets and the versatile Breaker jacket.—

DASMARCAdasmarca is a British label established in 2010 bycentral st Martins graduate and designer Bidyutdas. Focusing on classic and contemporaryheadwear, the brand is making its debut at Jacketrequired with its a/w 14 offering, entitled The NewTraditionalist. drawing inspiration from the 20s,the collection features herringbone and hounds-tooth patterns in traditional textures such astweed, wool and twill, while key styles include thetrilby, the porkpie and the French conductor cap.

FRAASMaking its show debut at this season’s Jacketrequired is scarf label Fraas. With over 125 yearsof experience in the industry, the German labelturns the focus to harmonic and contrastingcolour combinations this a/w 14 buying season.rich and varied tones of blue are key for the newrange, including azure, cobalt, midnight and steel,mixed with contrasted highlights of petrol,burgundy, ecru and chestnut. One of the key looksin the collection is the heritage herringbone,checks and plaids reworked with modern flashesof colour in wool cashmere blends.

MI PACBorn in the summer of 2012, bag specialist Mi Pacis already counted as one of the Uk’s leadingaccessory labels. With the resurgence of backpacks among the style set, the British label isentering its forth season with its mostcomprehensive collection to date. continuing topush boundaries in terms of both materials andfinishes, the new season includes additions to thebrand’s classic, premium and Gold range with fauxostrich, snakeskin and metallic designs.

TYLER & TYLERQuintessentially British label Tyler & Tyler wasfounded in 2007 by brothers richard andJonathan Tyler and has since grown into acomplete accessory offer. Making its Jacketrequired debut, the design duo is set to presenta range of classic, stylish and contemporaryfinishing touches including cufflinks, collarstiffeners, leather accessories, bow ties, ties, pocket squares,belts and socks.

KNIGHTSBRIDGE NECKWEARFollowing its successful debut for s/s 14, British accessory labelknightsbridge Neckwear returns to Jacket required with itslatest collection of ties, scarves, bow ties and pocket squares.Gaining momentum each season, this brand is now currentlyfound in some of the key Uk menswear outlets, includingPsyche in Middlesbrough, Accent in Leeds and Hoopersdepartment stores nationwide. key styles in the a/w 14offering include the ivory silk paisley aviator scarf and theMod-inspired monochrome houndstooth scarf.—


finiSh lineaccessories and add-ons are a key focus for many retailers, and with a range of new andestablished talent lining up to showcase their worth at Jacket required, MWB picked justsome of the names to check out this edition. —

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1. DASMARCA2. FRAAS3. MI PAC4. TYLER & TYLER5. KNIGHTSBRIDGE

NECKWEAR

SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED FEBRUARY 2014.

SHOWROOM APPOINTMENTS: [email protected] T: 020 7486 8916 FRAAS.COM

BOLD STYLES FOR WINTERY MONTHS.

SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.

SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED FEBRUARY 2014.

SHOWROOM APPOINTMENTS: [email protected] T: 020 7486 8916 FRAAS.COM

BOLD STYLES FOR WINTERY MONTHS.

SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.



Pick n MixMWB’s menswear insider tom Bottomley takes his pick of the bunch,highlighting six brands to take a look at this season, from heritage labels tonew kids on the block.—

LACOSTE FOOTWEAR

rené Lacoste was famed for hiseffortless elegance on and off the

court. Translating his sense of sporting eleganceto a series of urban lifestyle inspired shoes,Lacoste’s premium sneakers for a/w 14 provethat elegant can also be nimble. classic tennisand running silhouettes provide a starting pointfor high-end sneakers that are made for thestreet. combining clean lines and sporting style,there are two fresh designs coming to Jacketrequired, the Mortain and the cubera. What willalso be of interest for those looking for somethingclassic with, dare we say it, a twist, are the newbrogue styles in mixed materials and the foreverpopular EVA wedge sole. Outdoor-inspired canvasand leather come in autumnal tones of tan andkhaki. The brogue selection features the Milard,a classic style, and the Milard Hi, a modern andstylish boot. rené would approve, though hecertainly wouldn’t wear these babies on court.—

ALAN PAINE

it’s the English Explorer collection– based on the brand’s connectionswith adventurer George Mallory – thatwill be floating the boat of buyers atJacket. The Halmore men’s waxed cottonparka has been updated for a/w 14 with a Fair isle hood lining, and many of thenew garments are based on traditionalBritish knitwear, all the rage once again,and updated with new colourways andthe knitting expertise you’d expect fromone of the country’s few remainingspecialists. Long-lasting materials are thefocus, as is the great outdoors, withchunky wools and Tweed all playing apart. Then, of course, you have the vastarray of staple classic knits that only abrand like Alan Paine can really do withconviction.—

THE DUFFER OF ST GEORGE JAPAN

it’s true that all the kids are down with the dufferoffer exclusive to Jd sports but, for those in theknow, duffer Japan ( the higher tier line previouslyonly available in the Japanese market though stilldesigned by the talented Marco cairns) has moreof a design edge to it. it reminds you more ofduffer of old, but the price points are still attractive.There’s a real United states Navy influence to thea/w 14 collection, taking inspiration from both thedeck and casual outfittings of the officers ofyesteryear. There’s a lot of blues and tobaccos,with fur-collared jackets and genuine knittingtechniques, with some fine quality shirting fabrics,too. Add to that, gym-influenced apparel usinghistoric rib techniques and tinted grey marls andindigo dyes. sounds knockout.—


NATIVE YOUTH

sounding like an 80s teenage reggae band(sorry, that was Musical Youth wasn’t it?!), isno bad thing for this Manchester-born brandthat jumps on key trends quickly and executesthem finely. it’s quick turnaround, short-ordergear, though they will also be showing a/w 14at Jacket – alongside the key s/s 14 pieces.This is only their second s/s collection, but iflast year’s was anything to go by this willagain be hot stuff. Part of spring’s winners (wepresume) include the windbreaker and thefisherman jacket – paired with colour-blocktees and acid-washed indigo jersey. There arealso floral printed cottons, washed denim andBreton stripes aplenty, with Native Youth’sown ‘space dye’ jersey bringing a modern takeon the classic tracksuit.—

HENRI LLOYD

Here we have another specialist brandstriving to take itself into new waters,experimenting with styling and fabricationsall the time. For a/w 14, the solent downParka is a new multi-detail technical jacketwith taped seam construction and 550 FillPower 85/15 grey duck down providingunbeatable insulation. One for the elementsthat don’t half look good, too. Then there’sthe Elmey reversible Bomber, a real hybridwith a technical sports outer but a moretrend-led look – fully reversible with adetachable hood and removable faux furtrim. The last pick of the new outerwearoptions is the Himley Jacket, a Melton woolnumber with light wadding for additionalwarmth, and a water-resistant pack-awayhood. it’s a real Henri Lloyd piece if everthere was one, with front patch pockets anda nylon seat inspired by technical marineproducts.—

ELEVEN PARIS

Apparently “the winds of revolutionare blowing through the Eleven Parisa/w 14 collection.” Let’s hope they’reblowing in the right direction. For the new season, the Parisian brandtakes us to dublin for inspiration.Against a backdrop of post-punk andceltic music, the design team hit

the streets of the irish capital “to discover thehistory of a proud and rebellious people”. soundslike an excuse to get mullered on Guinness andJameson’s whiskey to us, but somehow the trip gavebirth to a resolutely grunge collection. The“tradition and spirit of the 90s melt together as theline between men’s and women’s wardrobesdisappears, to be redefined,” or so the press release goes. Must have been some night. Anyway,there’s tartan, irish symbols, celtic crosses andmedallions, all-over embroidered bullets, Gaeliclettering, furry knits, brushed textiles, leather andsuede inserts, studs, holes and spirals. sounds likethe old kensington Market might have been abetter place for inspiration, but we’ll grant them thedublin weekender.—

While the return of menswear essentials such as utilitarian outerwear and classic denims no longerscream newness, it is the mix of bold colourways, eye-catching patterns and innovative fabric finishes

that will inject interest into your store. MWB helps you master this season’s latest looks.—

JOrdAN: FArAH 1920 PArkA £58 020 7291 7657

JOrdAN: G sTAr JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950OriGiNAL PENGUiN JEANs £27 020 7291 7632FArAH 1920 JUMPEr £26 020 7291 7657 WEEkENd OFFENdEr sHirT (JUsT sEEN) £18.51 01332 614755 HAPPY sOcks rrP £8 020 3051 5236BOXFrEsH TrAiNErs £27 020 8297 4635 VErAs BELT £15 07969 142921

JOrdAN: LAVENHAM GiLET £51.95 01787 379535FArAH 1920 dENiM JAckET £44 020 7291 7657MErc TrOUsErs £23 020 7495 8538MErc sHOEs £35.56 020 7495 8538

cHArLiE: sUPErdrY LEATHEr JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 01242 578376OriGiNAL PENGUiN sHirT £25 020 7291 7632OriGiNAL PENGUiN JEANs £27 020 7291 7632

JOrdAN: HArrY sTEdMAN JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT020 7226 9029G sTAr JEANs PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950AiGLE sHirT £28 01608 813860VErAs BELT £15 07969 142921

cHArLiE: GLOVErALL dUFFLE cOAT PricEON rEQUEsT 01604 812812G-sTAr JEANs PricE ON rEQUEsT0800 279 4950G-sTAr sHirT (JUsT sEEN) PricE ON rEQUEsT 0800 279 4950MErc sHOEs £35.56 020 7495 8538—JOrdAN: scHOTT LEATHEr JAckET £152.1507957 247411d.i.E dENiM sHirT (JUsT sEEN) £32 07831 190418dUck & cOVEr HAT £4.90 020 8435 1668k sWiss TrAiNErs £31 020 7488 1380

cHArLiE: WEEkENd OFFENdEr JAckET £55.56 01332 614755WEEkENd OFFENdEr JUMPEr £31.48 01332 614755TOMMY HiLFiGEr dENiM sHirT £28.00 020 3144 0900AFENds BLEAcHEd JEANs £20 07889 709802

JOrdAN: LAVENHAM dUFFLE cOAT £141.30 01787 379535OriGiNAL PENGUiN JEANs (JUsT sEEN) £27 020 7291 7632

cHArLiE: sUPErdrY JAckET PricE ON rEQUEsT 01242 578376MQT JEANs PricE ON rEQUEsT 020 7436 6753AiGLE sHirT (JUsT sEEN) £28 01608 813860


cHArLiE: MErc dUFFLE cOAT £67.50 020 7495 8538ELViNE “sLiMsON” cHiNOs £28 020 7725 5700AiGLE dENiM sHirT £28 01608 813860VErAs sHOEs £48 07969 142921sTYLisT’s OWN sOcks

JOrdAN: GLOVErALL dUFFLE cOAT PricE ON rEQUEsT 01604 812812dUck & cOVEr scArF £8.75 020 8435 1668

cHArLiE: WOLsEY sPOrTs cOLLEcTiON JAckETPricE ON rEQUEsT 020 7292 7400AiGLE sHirT £28FArAH 1920 JEANs £32 020 7291 7657dUck ANd cOVEr scArF £8.75 020 8435 1668

JOrdAN: rEALM & EMPirE FiELd JAckET £66 01858 466729GABicci ViNTAGE JUMPEr £30 01442 233 700BrUTUs TriM FiT cHEckEd sHirT £21.50 020 7224 4031VOLcOM JEANs £26 0845 486 5266—cHArLiE: ELViNE JAckET £80 020 7725 5700FArAH sHirT £30 020 7291 7657dUck & cOVEr JEANs £24 020 8435 1668

cHArLiE: crO’JAck BOMBEr JAckET £65 01902 711823AFENds MUsTArd sHirT £20 07889 709802FArAH 1920 JEANs £24 020 7291 7657OHW? sHOEs £48 07779 139104sTYLisT’s OWN sOcks

CreditsPhotographs: Darren Black www.darrenblackphotography.comModels: Charlie C and Jordan S at Oxygen Models www.oxygenmodels.com Make-up artist: Amrita Dhanjal www.amritadhanjal.comStylists: Victoria Jackson and Tom BottomleyLocation: Cherry Bomb Studios, London SE16

Unless otherwise stated, all prices are wholesale


JANUARY 2014 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 88

cOllectivethe people, the places, the products.

as part of my small catalogue of doomed-to-failure new Yearresolutions, i included acquiring a dishwasher. Yes, i am now about tojoin the 20th century.

To be fair, there is a perfectly good reason why i held off for so long.As long-term readers of this column may have deduced, i have a penchantfor antiques, and this extends to my tableware. i have a collection ofcornishware; that cheerfully blue and white striped stuff that must havefilled every kitchen, pantry and larder from the 30s to the 60s. it waseverywhere. Woolworths sold it.

i began buying it in the 80s when it wasn’t very fashionable. Then awave of nostalgia enveloped it and prices went mental in the early 90s,before crashing to earth in the age of minimalism and stainless steel.Nowadays, you can pick up a dinner plate for a couple of pounds on eBay,or a caddy with “sultanas” on it for £20 or so. Quite affordable.

But my aversion to the charms of a dishwater dates back tocornishware’s glory days, to a time when i couldn’t risk my precious teaplates having their decades-old glaze stripped ruthlessly by diamondFinish tablets. Now that the values are almost ikea-esque, and i’m toldthat the tablets are much more tableware friendly, i’ve taken the plunge.

so in that hinterland between christmas and New Year i bravedsouth London’s Purley Way to visit John Lewis’ At Home store, and itsneighbour, currys.

What a contrast. As you might expect, John Lewis was the quietmurmur of the middle class at play; much oohing and ahhing over theclearance kath kidston. The friendly chap on dishwashers talked methrough the options, and didn’t make me feel like the Victorian i plainlyappeared to be with my archaic questions. He looked up all the optionsonline, and we narrowed it down to two. interestingly, there was way morechoice online than in-store, so having him there to navigate the websitewith me was most helpful.

currys was grim. There was more selection than John Lewis, but theteenager who sauntered over to “help” had about as much knowledge asa badger. When i asked why there was a £200 difference between twoseemingly identical models, his reply was, “it’s the brands, innit.”

it isn’t hard to see why John Lewis has posted stellar christmastrading figures. combining and integrating its online business sosuccessfully with its stores has been clever. Maintaining its brand valuesacross both has been genius.Simon carter is the ceO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

LiTTLE BLAck BOOkSiMOn & Me

Berlin

launched in 2008 and the brainchild of Simon freund, German menswearlabel Simon & Me has had somewhat of a makeover recently – or make-under, it seems. the brand’s store, located in the city’s fidicinstraße, isthe epitome of minimalist aesthetic.

With a stripped-down store space, simon & Me presents just five itemsfor sale – a compass, cotton tee, gentleman’s comb, copper bracelet andleather bag – with each piece designed by Freund and his partner, Alexander,and then created by craftsmen within the boundaries of Berlin.

As well as the “power-five”, the store has partnered with other localproducers to stock a range of spirits including Our/Berlin Vodka and Monkey47 Gin.

—

Plan B

neil MOrriSOwner, Veras shoes

i went to the local comprehensive school on myestate, which was not known for its success withinacademia. On the first day i saw a massive brawl andone kid head-butting anyone in their way.

i can’t remember her name, but she scared meto death. i thought to myself what a charming school.When the careers advisor interviewed me about whati wanted to do in life, he came to the conclusion thati should aim to be a labourer. What a dream for a childto have. i haven’t held a trowel since.

After school i went to college because i didn’tknow what to do next, and then i went on to aPolytechnic to do business studies, which becameuseful when i went bankrupt many years later!Looking back, i was always interested in travel andobsessed with countries and capital cities. Perhaps ishould have followed my father, who sailed the vastoceans and travelled the world many times. Onlyproblem being, i hate airports and cannot swim for ahuge fear of water.

—

siMON sAYs

JANUARY 2014 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 89

i’m a complete jacket-head. i’ve always started a buyingappointment or a collection development process withouterwear. it’s the category that makes an immediateimpact with buyers and customers, and gains instantcredibility with the consumer. since i started in themenswear industry, i’ve pretty much kept every jacket i’vebought or managed to “blag”. Loft space at home is nowcrammed with around 200 fine examples.—My Belstaff roadmaster is a firm favourite. it’s batteredand bruised, and i’ve resisted the temptation to get it

re-waxed. it’s a timeless piece and authentic to the core. At south of chester, partof the scotts portfolio where i was buying controller for 10 years, we got in earlywith Belstaff and bought it for the store when it relaunched in the Uk. it’s one of itsmore understated jackets with no big pocket branding, which was the norm at thetime as it was driven by the italian collection. —i love “function” in jackets, especially when combined with the tongue-in-cheekspark of early One true Saxon, such as the brand’s Park Picnic jacket with a built-in, drop-down picnic blanket for those “weekend manoeuvres”. it was well aheadof its time and launched when most buyers were focused on Prada sport. —i’m also particularly proud of our realm & empire peacoat – great fit, great fabricand again a timeless classic. Our collaboration with the garment archive of imperialWar Museums gave us the opportunity to learn more about the real history andauthentic detailing of this piece, and bring this into actual production. We eventrimmed the pockets and collar with British Millerain waxed cotton.

—

richard rOBinSOnBrand directOr, realM & eMPire

TOP TWEETs

sOciETY

ROBIN TABARI @ZeeTabari If only sleeping was a job. I’d be so good atit. I’d even work over time

Esquire Magazine @EsquireUK John Cooper Clarke providing thecommentary at Top Man show

Men’s Health Style @MensHealthStyle Use warm water or a hot towel to softenyour skin and open your pores, which willgive you the closest shave. #GroomingTip

ASOS Menswear�@ASOS_Menswear Holding a minute’s silence for Theo’santerior cruciate ligament.

Warren Beckett�@RobotMonsieur Can the BFC make the rain stop please?My Rodarte is getting wet #LCM

Financial Times @FT The real faultline in Britain is generational.The old are seen to have done well from thestate; young are victims

Brooks Brothers @BrooksBrothers Style Resolutions: Style immortality – somethings never go out of style. Identify thesethings, buy the best you can afford & treatthem well

Timothy Barber�@TimTomato Suppose there’s nothing surprising thesedays about £4 for a pint of London Pride,but I’m surprised nonetheless. TSK.

the PartieS and eventS frOM in and arOUnd the MenSWear indUStrY.

clOSetcOnfidential

Topman and live all-over print specialist YrStore celebratedthe launch of YrTopman with the introduction of a new range of customisable garments, accessories products andprint library at Topman Oxford Street in the PersonalShopping Suite.

The Elite Apparel press day at The Paradise with acrobaticperformance group Rollin Dices modelling the latest Waxxswimwear collection, while models (L-R) Leva Leskeviciute,Egle Videikaite, Ilona Majauskaite and Anliya Abdou Issa wearlatest collections by sister company Elite Swim.

David Gandy and Dermott O’Leary join GQ editor andchairman of London Collections: Men Dylan Jones at thelaunch of the fourth edition of the menswear event earlierthis month.



the BOttOMleY lineMWB deputy editor tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

hOW tO BUMP UP tradinGfiGUreS? clOSe YOUr chanGinGrOOMS in Sale!

You’ve really got to be quite flummoxed at thedecision-making at Marks and spencer. closingchanging rooms in the first days of the sale onlyserved to enrage its loyal customer base stillfurther, with many still smarting at the sheer lackof staff and service in stores in general, as well asoften inappropriate collections. Particularly forwomen, as we often hear, who feel the shop’s highgloss, high celebrity-count advertising doesn’tquite fit with what they’re after.

i experienced the shut changing roomshenanigans first hand at the kingston branch on28 december, having popped in to see if they hadany Moon fabric hats or scarves left, insteadfinding a half decent pair of cords (seriously theywere a great colour – just needed tapering!)reduced to £22 i wanted to try on. Like me, mostmen, on eventually finding the fitting rooms andfinding them shut off with a sign reading “To stopqueues building up that might disrupt yourshopping, the changing rooms will be closed overthe sales period”, ditched what they had in theirhands. some, with shirts and jumpers to try, simplystripped off and tried them on by the nearestmirror. Only to then find one person on a till – witha 20-deep queue to pay – so ditching the itemsanyhow. This is basic retailing gone wrong by ahigh street giant. Quite staggering really. i’vealways had quite a lot of sympathy for M&s giventhe stick it is usually subject to in the press if itgets the slightest thing wrong, but this time i’vegot to wade in with some stinging criticism myself.it just beggars belief that when high street tradingis so tense, tough and fierce you don’t let thecustomers who’ve bothered to come to the storetry anything on. Talk about shooting yourself in theproverbial retail foot.

Weller finallY GiveS US hiS OWn line

My word, he’s done some clothing collaborationsin the past, with Liam Gallagher’s Pretty Greenlabel, Fred Perry and Ben sherman all benefittingfrom his hands-on approach to design andaesthetic. But now Paul Weller is coming out with

his very own line, called real stars Are rare(rsAr), the result of a lifetime’s passion forclothes and style, for a/w 14. Expect plenty ofsharp looks from the Modfather, who we’reassured is 100 per cent behind the project, withhis money fronting it. He’s apparently even beenout to the factories to do all the fittings and, if mychats in the past about his attention to detail areanything to go by, most notably comments madefrom Ben sherman’s Mark Maidment when theygot together to do the line of candy shirts – whosaid Weller was insistent everything had to beabsolutely spot on – then this should besomething worth waiting for. Especially forWeller’s legions of fans, though he says there is“no demographic” for its appeal. There’souterwear, shirting, knitwear and tailoring, and it’sgoing to be wholesaled through kevin stone’s newindex-London agency. The brand name comesfrom a line Weller says he heard somewhere: “real

stars are rare... they only come out at night”. Hecomments, “Make of that what you will, but i likeit and there’s a lot of truth in it! For me it’s aboutquality, which i hope is reflected here.” The stylecouncil has now most certainly landed.

rUckSackS Made hard!

You’ve got to hand it to Mi Pac really. With its s/s14 new imagery for its fresh Gold Line they’reactually making rucksacks look quite hard! Thegeeks and mountaineer man’s special has beendone in different fabrics and shot with a tattoo-necked model with psychobilly haircut and denimjacket with sleeves chopped off. He’d look more athome in a clash video, but i could never quiteimagine the legendary Joe strummer walkingaround town with a rucksack on his back. For himthat would have surely been Armagideon Time.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

© Pa

ul M

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REAL STAR PAUL WELLER

MI PAC’S

GOLD LINE RUCKSACK

JANUARY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 92

BiG SizeS

caSUalWear

GarMent StandS

SteaMerS & irOnS

Unit 63 (Sixth Floor) Regent Studios8 Andrews Road, Hackney, London E8 4QNTel: 0207 254 8888 Fax: 0207 254 8889Email: [email protected]

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laSt OrderS With...Mark haddOnvictoria Jackson catches up with Mark haddon, founder of haddon Pr, and somewhatof a menswear mogul, to find out who his dream client would be to dress and whatbrands he’d like to see added to his current portfolio. —

Date of birth: 24/01/72Place of birth: LondonLives now: KentTwitter: @HaddonPRWebsite: www.haddonpr.com

how did the launch of your, now very successful,Pr company come about?i launched Haddon Pr in 2008; i was more thanready at that point to do my own thing. i first gotinto the fashion industry by working for Moneyclothing and heading up its Pr division. Fashionlabels now work closer with artists, so Pr felt likea natural progression after i spent years workingin the record industry.

You’ve worked with some amazing brands. ifthere was one label on your dream hit list towork with, who would it be and why? There are a great many brands i’ve enjoyedworking with, but Adidas, Nike and stone islandstand out; their attention to detail is outstandingand, personally, i’ve been a fan for many years.

What’s a typical day like for you? i get up at 7am, i’m in the office by 9am, then it’sfull throttle Pr till around 10pm each night.

What would you say the best part of the job is?Working alongside industry-recognisable brandsand trying to break new and up-and-coming labelsare different but equally satisfying challenges. ienjoy all aspects of my job – it’s why i started thecompany.

and the most challenging? Trying to secure front covers and editorialfeatures.

if you could dress anyone, who would it be? Having already dressed big stars such as MichealFassbender, idris Elba and Tom Hardy, i supposeryan Gosling would now be the next person onmy list…

What was your Plan B job if Pr hadn’t workedout? i would have always made it work. But secretly iwould still love to be an actor or a footballer.

in terms of your personal style, do you drawinspiration for anyone in particular? What’s yourstandard uniform?i’m a man of a thousand looks that can bedescribed using two very easy words – smartcasual.

Where can we find you shopping, and whatlabels could we find in your wardrobe?Mark Haddon-spotters will find me in selfridgesand Present London. i have far too many labels inmy wardrobe to mention.

finally, what are you wearing right now? Adidas zX850 trainers, Edwin selvedge denim, aMarshall Artist shirt and Native Youth jacket.

QUick-fire QUeStiOnS—Who is your mentor? I’ve never had a mentor, but people I’vealways listened to and who have beenwilling to give advice include GaryAspden from Adidas and WeekendOffender’s Aaron Thalmann.—What piece of advice would you havegiven to your 16-year-old self? Work even harder.—What can’t you resist? A great pair of trainers or shoes.—Growing up I always wanted to be...? A footballer.—What’s the one thing you can’t livewithout?My son.



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