BUS9

9

9

FRONT ST.

At Cape May Lighthouse, hike up199 steps to take in expansive views ofthe Delaware Bay and Atlantic Ocean.

Cuddle with camelids at Bay Springs

Farm Alpacas, a small family farm

specializing in the animals’ fleece.

Owner Tom King dishes out morethan a dozen homemade flavorsat King’s Ice Cream, a summerhangout since the 1970s.

The Zwaanendael Museum honors

Lewes’s Dutch roots with its replica

of the town hall in Hoorn, Netherlands.

Starthere

Driver’s route

The year-round Cape May-Lewes Ferry has carried more than 11 millionvehicles and 34 million passengers since it started service in 1964.

Tea by the Sea stocks morethan 200 varieties, including suchexotics as South African rooibos.

The Lewes Historical Society Complex featuresnine historic buildings, including a circa-1790blacksmith shop and a schoolhouse from 1898.

Bartenders mix up potent martinisat Buttery Restaurant, housed ina restored Victorian mansion.

In 1938, the U.S. Lighthouse Servicebuilt the last lightship, the Overfalls.The restored vessel is now retired onthe Lewes-Rehoboth Canal.

With its upside-down chimneys andother Stick Style adornments, the18-room Emlen Physick Estateis a standout among Cape May’smany Victorian houses.

The 80-foot-tall Great Dune atCape Henlopen State Parkis the tallest sand moundbetween Cape Hatteras, N.C.,and Cape Cod, Mass.

Since 1947, Dellas5 & 10 has suppliedbeachgoers with suchcool treats as ice creamsodas and brown (orblack) cow floats.

STEVEN STREET

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CapeMay

LewesD.C.

VA.

DELAWARE

NEWJERSEY

MARYLAND

PENNSYLVANIA

A Ferry Tale of Two Beach Towns

WHERE: Lewes, Del., to Cape May, N.J.

WHY: Beaches on two shores, Victorian flourishes and ferryingaround.

HOW FAR: About 24 miles from start to finish, including ferryride, and about 120 miles from Washington.

H ere is a tale of two cities, divided by Delaware Baybut united by the Cape May-Lewes Ferry. On theDelaware side is Lewes, the state’s first Europeansettlement, which transformed into a subdued sea-

side getaway. On the New Jersey side is Cape May, a thrivingbeach resort area dripping in Victorian architecture.

Though only 17 miles apart (80 minutes by ferry), the townshave distinct histories, characters and charms. Henry Hudson,an Englishman in the service of the Dutch, first spotted thesandy southern cape of Lewes (pronounced “LOO-iss”) in1609 and pegged it for a great whaling campsite. In 1631, thesettlement (originally named Zwaanendael, or “Swan Valley”)became the first town in America’s future first state. The smalltown still displays its Old World roots with such historic build-ings as the Dutch-inspired Zwaanendael Museum, a trove ofmaritime, military and social lore. Otherwise, the sleepy desti-nation mostly consists of well-kept storefronts along tidystreets and a smattering of vacation homes surrounded bydunes and water.

By contrast, Cape May, also a Hudson discovery, has been amajor Jersey Shore resort since the 18th century, when thearea began hosting well-to-do guests from Northeast cities andoverseas. In the 1800s, stately Victorian vacation homes start-ed popping up from downtown to the Atlantic shore. Althoughan 1878 fire destroyed many of these bespangled residences,Cape May still has the second-largest collection of Victorianstructures in the country (after San Francisco) and was desig-nated a National Historic Landmark in 1976. During high sea-son, the streets swarm with sunburned visitors, but a few milesfrom Cape May central, the bustle gives way to wild dunes,waves and a more relaxed summertime scene.

— Ben Chapman

Road Trip maps are available at www.washingtonpost.com/roadtrip, as are addresses and

hours of operation. (Be sure to check before you go.) Havean idea for a trip? E-mail roadtrip@washpost.com.

SOURCE 06-22-08 DC EE N6 CMYK

N6CMYK

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N6 Sunday, June 22, 2008 The Washington Postx

WEDNESDAY IN STYLE Escapes visits a rural retreatfeaturing classical music and gourmet food in Virginia.

MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY BEN CHAPMAN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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TITLE BASIC STORY SAMPLE GRAB GRADEWHAT YOU’LL LOVE

“I’m no economist, but if the economy is growing

and wages are not, the money must be going

somewhere, and the obvious place to look is up.

Way up. In fact, if you want to follow the money,

you’re going to have to strain your neck.”

Ehrenreich calls out the hypocrisy she sees

dominating a slew of modern-day issues

(illegal immigration, corporate union-busting,

mistreatment of the military) with a sassy wit

that’s often laugh-out-loud funny.

The sharp-tongued cultural

commentator sounds off on the

ever-growing divide between

America’s corporate-funded,

Bush-backed elites and the poor,

struggling masses on whose backs

(she argues) their fortunes are built.

This Land Is Their LandBy Barbara

Ehrenreich

Henry Holt

$24

Her blunt mini-diatribes (most of which are

only a couple of pages long) can feel tossed-off

and reductive, and a few, such as a random

skewering of low-fat-diet gurus, should have

never made the cut.

— Reviewed by Sara Cardace

B-

WHAT YOU WON’T

MediaMix A Quick Take on New Releases

“PERSEPOLIS” ILLUSTRATION BY MARJANE SATRAPI AND VINCENT PARONNAUD — SONY PICTURES CLASSICS

C

A-

B+

C

C-

A-

C-

“Most people think it’s a rare and diffi cult thing

for a person to vanish completely. They believe

that everyone turns up again eventually — alive

or dead, religiously or chemically altered.”

O’Flynn’s darkly comic effort is the rare

mystery that bears rereading, not for

puzzling out plot twists but for its

pitch-perfect evocations of childhood

and loss.

In this award-winning debut

novel, two disaffected employees of a sprawl-

ing shopping center in Birmingham, England,

fi nd themselves haunted by the 20-year-old

disappearance of a young girl.

What Was LostBy Catherine

O’Flynn

Henry Holt

$14

Readers looking for a “Da Vinci

Code”-style page turner might fi nd

themselves mystifi ed by the author’s

unhurried pace and dry satire of

consumer culture.

— Adriana Leshko

“I want him to know what I have done /

I want him to know right now”

— The only lyrics we could understand from the English-language “All Alright”

The guitar-heavy, cheery, moderately

poppy and (considering it’s mostly sung in

high-pitched Icelandic) accessible disc is

enough to charm anyone who has been on

the fence about the group.

The Icelandic imps issue their fi fth

disc and their fi rst with producer

Flood (U2, Nine Inch Nails). The album, whose

title roughly translates to “With a Buzz in Our

Ears, We Play Endlessly,” features the band’s fi rst

track sung in English.

Með suð í eyrum við spilum endalaust Sigur Rós

Beggars/XL

$11.98

For the die-hard haters, listening

to these songs will feel like being

repeatedly hit on the head by a gang of

whimsical elves. And that English-language

song is a tough, depressing slog.

— Allison Stewart

“Do you remember when /

We were on the run /

Got loaded like a shotgun”

— “Down at the Whisky”

It’s a nostalgia-soaked tribute to the band’s

salad days, blending the us-against-the-

world themes of its early albums with “Dr.

Feelgood”-era glam pop. The group shows no

inclination toward self-awareness or

maturity. Because nobody would want that.

After battling drugs, reality shows, consumer

indifference and one another, the Cruë returns

with its fi rst disc featuring its original lineup in

11 years.

Saints of Los AngelesMötley Cruë

Eleven Seven

$16.98

Even for a Cruë disc, it’s paste-eatingly dumb.

The group’s refl exive hostility toward women

(“Chicks = Trouble”? Seriously?) is like something

out of a time capsule. And some overly familiar

tracks blur the line between honoring the band’s

back catalogue and cannibalizing it.

— A.S.

“Don’t you know what can happen to

loggers when their chainsaws hit the

spikes? How do you think my Uncle

Dermit’s fi nger got chopped off?”

— Danni’s best friend, Vivian, on the consequences of Haskell’s activities

Miranda’s art effectively channels the

seductive turmoil of adolescence, and

Donner gives younger readers a nice primer

on the gray morality of eco-terrorism.

After relocating with her mom to a

small logging town, teenager Danni

crushes hard on Haskell, who would

become her stepbrother if their

parents got married and who harbors

dangerous ideas about saving

the environment.

BurnoutBy Rebecca Donner

and Inaki Miranda

Minx/DC Comics

$9.99

“Do not eat me when I save

your life!”

— Strait’s character has a tough time reasoning with a saber-toothed tiger

The main characters barely stretch beyond

cliches (newly single and desperate mom,

brooding and secretive stepbrother-to-be,

emotionally abusive alcoholic stepdad), and the

plot steers them into predictable collisions.

— Evan Narcisse

Omar Sharif’s narration

is solemnly serious fun,

and there are a few

mildly entertaining action

sequences.

At the beginning of civilization, a young

man (Steven Strait) must save his tribe

of mammoth hunters and his girlfriend

(Camilla Belle) from a warlike clan.

10,000 BCRated PG-13

Warner Bros.

$28.98

A good caveman yarn should be nasty, brutish

and short, no? What we get instead is a great big

piece of fossilized cheese.

— Greg Zinman

“Lipstick, nail polish, playing cards . . .

Iron Maiden.”

— A black marketer captures young Marji’s attention

In this animated adaptation of Marjane Satrapi’s

autobiographical graphic novels, a young girl

(voiced by Chiara Mastroianni)

in Tehran rebels against

increasingly restrictive

religious rule after the

Iranian revolution.

PersepolisRated PG-13

Sony

$29.95

There’s a story to follow

(one that is similar but

not identical to the movie’s),

but you have the freedom to go

anywhere you want to bust up

the majority of Manhattan.

Wanton destruction is what you expect

from a Hulk adventure, and that’s usually

cathartic fun, but a game that rewards

you for demolishing landmark New York

buildings puts a bad taste in our mouths.

— Christopher Healy

You’ll learn more

about Iranian history by

watching this stunning cartoon than by

reading the newspaper, and

Satrapi offers piquant

commentary.

The Incredible HulkMultiple platforms

Rated Everyone 10+

or Teen

Sega

$29.95-$59.99

»

»

»

»

»

»

»

The big green guy’s

preferred method of

travel, leaping from

rooftop to rooftop,

is well-executed

and fun to pull off.

»Hulk smash!

(Really,

that’s pretty

much the

concept.)

Thankfully, the movie is too complex to invite

easy political answers, but gripers will look

for anti-Iranian sentiment.

— G.Z.

Proofed by: duncanl Time: 13:25 - 06-20-2008 Separation: C M Y K HIGH-RES PROOF. IMAGES ARE RIPPED. FULL PROOF INTEGRITY.Product: SOURCE LayoutDesk: SOU PubDate: 06-22-08 Zone: DC Edition: EE Page: RDTRIP