NAgina Textile

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_______________________________________-1- Prepared by: Asif Nawaz ELLCOT SPINNING MILLS LTD

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Sr.No. CONTENTS PAGE No.1 ACKNOWLEDGMENT 3

2 ELLCOT Spinning Mills LTD. 43 RAW MATERIAL COTTON 5 104 RAW MATERIAL POLYESTER 11 125 MIXING 13 166 BLOW ROOM 17 277 CARDING 28 308 COMBING 31 339 DRAW FRAME 34 4110 SIMPLEX 42 4611 RING FRAME 47 5012 AUTO CONE 51 5413 SPIN PLAN 55 5814 TESTING AND QUALITY CONTROL 59 7615 PACKING 77 7916 EXCISE DEPARTMENT 80 8217 MACHINERY LIST U1,U2 83 85


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All praises for Almighty Allah, Who guides us in darkness and helps us in difficulties and due respect for Holy Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) who enabled us to recognize our Creator. First of all I would like to thank Mr. Inam Ul Haq Sabbir G.M. Marketing from the bottom of my heart for giving me exceptional opportunity of learning the process at the mills site.

I would like to extend my heartiest thanks to Mr. Aslam Baig CMA Mr. Ch. Abdul Rauf G.M Mr. Imitiaz Ahmad MM, Mr. Nasir MM, Mr. Waheed Aslam SM, Mr. Ijaz Lab Incharge U1, Mr. Adnan Lab Incharge U2, and all the supervisors and admin staff. Thanks all of you for the help and cooperation given to me.

Corporate Profile

Established in 1991, Ellcot Spinning Mills Limited operates state of the art spinning

machinery comprising of 54,528 Spindles with related process machines. The company

produces high quality yarns of 100% cotton, synthetic, and polyester / cotton blends.

Both carded and combed Yarns for weaving and knitting application are produced in


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many blends. Ellcot Spinning Mills Limited high quality yarns are used to produce

apparel fabrics, sheeting, toweling, canvas, and Knitted products.

Products

10/1 to 60/1 polyester / cotton blend yarns both carded and combed.

30 NE to 80 NE 100% combed cotton yarns manufactured from U.S.A, Giza 86,

and contamination free cotton.

Core yarns with "Lycra ®" from Dupont. Count ranges from 30/1 to 40/1 for both

carded and combed yarns in a variety of deniers.

What is Cotton?


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Cotton, belonging to a family that includes hibiscus and okra, produces a natural

vegetable fiber used in the manufacture of cloth. Cotton produces sweet nectar that

attracts a variety of destructive insect pests, including the boll weevil,

bollworm, armyworm, and the red spider. In addition to insect pests, there is also a

very destructive fungus, called the wilt, which attacks the root system of the

cotton plant.

The English name which began to be used circa 1400, derives from the Arabic (al) qutn

.meaning cotton ,ُقGْطEن

Leading cotton-producing countries

TOP TEN COTTON


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PRODUCERS-2007

(million 480-pound bales)

People's Republic of China 35.8

India 25.3

United States 19.2

Pakistan 9.0

Brazil 7.2

Uzbekistan 5.5

Turkey 3.2

Greece 1.4

Turkmenistan 1.3

Syria 1.2

The international cotton trade:

Fiber Thickness:


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The thickness of the fiber is termed as fiber fineness which is numerically represented

as micronaire value. The lesser the value the finer would be the micronaire (mic). Fiber

fineness is one of the most important fiber properties and is expressed as

“Weight of one inch of fiber in microgram”

Typical micronaire values are:

Very fine 3.0

Fine 3.1 – 3.9

Medium 4.0 – 4.9

Coarse 5.0+

Fiber fineness influence following factors of the following:

Yarn strength

Yarn regularity

Yarn bulk

Luster

Fuzz Fiber:

The longer cotton fibers when detached from the seed are called lint. The undergrowth

of fuzz which develops at the tip of the seed is called linters. These are coarse and very

short in length.


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Staple Length:

Staple length is one of the most important characteristics of cotton. It defines the

spinability of the fiber. Staple length has been basis for trading the cotton more then a

century. In this regards, cotton is divided into three large categories:

(LONG STAPLE):

Long staple, this measures 28-34 mms

(MEDIUM STAPLE):

Medium staple reach the length of 26-28 mms

(SHORT STAPLE):

Short staple reach the length of 25 mms

Upper Half Mean Length

Below 0.99” Short

0.99 – 1.10” Medium

1.11 - 1.26” Long

Above 1.26” Extra Long

Uniformity Index:

Length uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as: -

"A ratio between the mean length and the upper half mean length of the fibers and is

expressed as a percentage".

UI = Mean Length X 100

UHML


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Uniformity Index

Below 77 Very Low

77 – 79 Low

80 – 82 Medium

83 – 85 High

Above 85 Very High

Grade:

The grade is given by the external appearance of the cotton and is determined on the

basis of the major or minor brightness of the fibers, by its more or less white color, by

the major or minor presence of particles of the leaf or other extraneous substances.

TRASH:

Trash content is assessed from scanning the cotton sample surface with a video camera

and calculating the percentage of the surface area occupied by trash particles. The

values of trash content should be within the range from 0 to 1.6%. Trash content is

highly correlated to leaf grade of the sample.

COLOR:

The color is another important element of evaluation of cotton. In fact, from the major

or minor whiteness of the cotton depend on the facility of later workings and the

possibility of obtaining good yarns. Natural colour of cotton highly influences the

chemical processing and dyability of the finished product.


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Fiber Strength :( grams/tex)

Fiber strength is measured in grams per tex (g/t) or centi-newton per tex CN/tex.

The force necessary to break the beard of fibers, clamped in two sets of jaws, (1/8 inch

apart).

The breaking strength of cotton is about 3.0-4.9 g/tex, and the breaking elongation is about 8-

10%.

Strength

20 and Below Very Weak

21 – 25 Weak

26 – 29 Medium

30 – 32 Strong

32 and above Very Strong

Fiber Elongation (%)

Below 5.0 Very Low

5.0 - 5.8 Low

5.9 - 6.7 Average

6.8 - 7.6 High

Above 7.6 Very High

PROPERTIES:

Cotton, as a natural cellulose fiber, has a lot of characteristics, such as:

• Comfortable Soft hand

• Good absorbency

• Color retention

• Prints well

• Machine-wash able

• Good strength

• Easy to handle and sew

Polyester:_______________________________________-10-

Prepared by: Asif Nawaz ELLCOT SPINNING MILLS LTD

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Ingredients:

MATERIAL OR COMPONENT %

Poly (Ethylene-Terephthalate) 99.57Textile Finish 00.13

Moisture (When packed) 00.30

Bale Stacking:

Maximum stacking limit 5 high with bales horizontally placed on an even floor and

vertically aligned.

FIRE:

It remains the most lethal Hazard to Life & Property. Hence Training supported by a

strong system of fire safely management should be in place with fire exits clearly

marked, fire extinguishers placed properly and checked periodically.

BLENDING

With Viscose

The normal blending practice is to make a sandwich blend with viscose in the blow

room. Both viscose and TERYLENE bales should be checked for moisture content on

opening, especially if there is any possibility that accidental welling might have

occurred. Each fibre should be opened out and thoroughly dried before processing.

Drying of wet fibre should not be carried out in direct sunlight.

The maximum number of bales should be used to make the sandwich blend. A

minimum of 8 bales of TERYLENE is recommended. The viscose component should


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be pre-opened before blending with TERYLENE. A sandwich stack should be prepared

near the blenders in order to avoid mixing with other fibers. If possible mixing is

allowed to condition in the open area before processing.

The maximum available number of blenders should be operated to feed the sandwich

stack instead of one blender in order to improve blend ratio.Soft waste should be

dispersed evenly throughout the sandwich stack. Re-feeding of clean waste should be

on a regular basis and at a low level.

With Cotton

The normal blending practice is to blend cotton at drawing. Both cotton and polyester

are opened and carded separately. Cotton is normally combed in order to remove any

excess of short fibers before blending with polyester. Cotton can be blended with

TERYLENE whether straight after combing or after post comber drawing. The latter

sequence is preferred in order to improve yarn quality. All the required number of

cotton strands should be blended at the 1st stage of draw frame blending followed by

two more passage of drawing. It is recommended to reed eight ends for improved

doubling and blending will be found to give satisfactory results.

MIXING

Bale Management:


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In a particular lot

Micronaire range of the cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings of

a lot

Micronaire average of the cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings

of a lot

Range of color of cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings of a lot

Average of color of cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings of a lot

It is not advisable to mix the yarn made of out of two different shipments of same

cotton. For example, the first shipment of West African cotton is in January and the

second shipment is in March, it is not advisable to mix the yarn made out of these two

different shipments. If there is no shade variation after dyeing, then it can be mixed.

Stack mixing is the best way of doing the mixing compared to using automatic bale

openers which picks up the material from 30to 40 bales depending on the length of the

machine and bale size, provided stack mixing is done perfectly. Improper stack mixing

will lead to SHADE VARIATION problem. Stack mixing with Bale opener takes care

of short term blending and two mixers in series takes care of long term blending.

Why?

Tuft sizes can be as low as 10 grams and it is the best way of opening the

material (nep creation will be less, care has to be taken to reduce recycling in

the inclined lattice)

contaminations can be removed before mixing is made

The raw material gets acclimatized to the required temp and R.H. %, since it is

allowed to stay in the room for more than 24 hours and the fibre is opened, the

fiber gets conditioned well.

Disadvantages:

more labour is required


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more space is required

mixing may not be 100% homogeneous( can be overcome by installing double

mixers)

Bale Arrangement

Let us assume that there are five different micronaires and five different colors in the

cotton, 50 bales are to be use in the mixing. 5 to 10 groups should be made by grouping

the bales in a mixing so that each group will have average micronaire and average color

as that of the overall mixing.

The position of a bale for micronaire and color should be fixed for the group and it

should repeat in the same order for all the groups.

It is easy to optimize the process parameters in blow room and cards.

Drafting faults will be less.

Dyed cloth appearance will be better because of uniform dye pickup etc.

It is advisable to use single cotton in a mixing, provided the length, strength micronaire,

maturity coefficient and trash content of the cotton will be suitable for producing the

required counts. Automatic bale opener is a must if more than two cottons are used in

the mixing, to avoid SHADE VARIATION problem.

Manual Mixing:

The cotton mixing is done by ladies and boys workers. They open the materials from

large tuft to small tufts and mix two different cottons by different ratios which ordered

by laboratory. The polyester mixing is done manually; usually five bales are mixed at a

time. The different useable wastes are mixed with cotton and polyester i.e. lap cut, card

fly, pnemafil, roving etc different proportion as advised by the laboratory incharge.

In cotton mixing seventeen to nineteen bales are stuff in the plucker and 10 Kg lab cut

and sliver added in the raw material. A worker is assigned to that plucker to operate and

manually remove the foreign material from the plucker.The plucker sends the material


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in the next room where workers further remove the foreign material and also recheck

the cotton coming from the vetal scan. After that raw material is sent in blow room

through inclined lattice.

10/S PC 52/48 (WASTE)

Useable waste coming from the process is also utilized for

making the yarn 10/s pc or cvc depending on the demand. In 10/s following useable

wastes are used

Pnemafil (Ring)

Roving (Simplex)

Polyester Sliver (Card)

Card Sliver (Card)

For example if 10/s pc 52/48 is to be made the ratio of waste told by the lab incharge to

the mixing incharge if we have

Mixing require 800 kg

Pnemafil 350 Kg

Roving 126 Kg

Total 476 Kg

The ratio of waste(pnemafil, roving) given by the lab incharge is 47% polyester 53%

cotton depending on the ratios running at that time at the unit

Polyester (47%) 476x0.47= 223.72 Kg

Cotton (53%) 476x0.53= 252.28 Kg

Mixing require 800-476= 324 Kg (lab cut cotton and polyester sliver)

Now 324 kg polyester and cotton is to be added in that 476 kg of waste (pnemafil,

roving) with 57% polyester and 43% cotton because in the waste polyester was 47%

and cotton 53% so

Polyester (57%) 324x0.57= 184.68 Kg


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Cotton (43%) 324x0.43= 139.32 Kg

Polyester (52%) 223.72 + 184.68 = 408.40 Kg

Cotton (48%) 252.28 + 139.32 = 391.60 Kg

Total Mixing = 800 Kg

Blow RoomBasic operations in the Blow Room:

Opening

Cleaning


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Micro dust removal

Foreign matter removal

Uniform feed to the carding machine

Recycling the waste

Blow room installation consists of a sequence of different machines to carry out the

above said operations. Moreover Since the tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and

smaller, the required intensities of processing necessitates different machine

configuration.

TECHNICAL POINTS IN BLOWROOM

Opening in blow room means opening into small flocks.

The larger the dirt particle, the better they can be removed.

Since almost every blow room machine can shatter particles, as far as possible a

lot of impurities should be eliminated at the start of the process. Opening should

be followed immediately by cleaning, if possible in the same machine.

The higher the degree of opening, the higher the degree of cleaning.

The cleaning efficiency is strongly dependent on the TRASH %age. It is also

affected by the size of the particle. Therefore cleaning efficiency can be different

for different cottons with the same trash %age.

If cotton is opened well in the opening process, cleaning becomes easier.

If Manual Bale openers are used, the tuft size fed to the feed lattice should be as

small as possible.

Due to machine harvesting, cotton contains more and more impurities, which

furthermore are shattered by hard ginning. Therefore cleaning is always an

important basic operation.

Traditional methods use more number of machines to open and clean natural

fibers.


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Mechanical action on fibers causes some deterioration on yarn quality,

particularly in terms of naps. Moreover it is true that the staple length of cotton

can be significantly shortened.

Air streams are often used in the latest machine sequence, to separate fibers from trash particles.

General Information of Cotton:1. Cotton used 76 bales/day

2. Bale weight 160kg

3. Method of bale opening Manual

5. Types of material used PAK Cotton

6. Moisture in bales 8.5%

7. Relative humidity in blow room 48%

8. Types of waste extract particles Seed, dust, leaf, pieces of cloth, wings, jute and PP

9. Waste mixed in blow room 10 kg/bale

10. Disposal of waste Manual

11. Disposal waste use 52% cotton, 48% polyester

11. Type of delivery from blow room i. Lap Feedii. Chute feed

12. Cleaning efficiency of blow room 50 % – 60 %

13. Waste removed 4.5%

PRODUCTION of blow room for cotton:

Production of blow room can be calculated by the production of card. Production of card= 1,688 lbs./day/card= 25,350 lbs/day/15cards

= 11,485 kg/day/15cards


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As 8% waste is removed in card so the input of cards will be, Input of carding section = 11,485+8% Production of blow room = 12,484 kg/dayInput of blow room = 12,484 x (100/100-4.5) Input of blow room = 13,072 kg/day = 13,653kg/dayNo. of bales consumed/day in blow room = 13072/160

= 81.70= 82(approx.) bales/day.

PRODUCTION of blow room for polyester:Production of card = 1,764 lbs./day/card

=24,696 lbs/day/14cards

=11,202 kg/day/14cardsAs 0.5% waste is removed in card so the input of cards will be, Input of carding section = 11,202+0.5%

Production of blow room = 11,258 kg/day

Input of blow room = 11,258 kg/day

No. of bales consumed/day in blow room = 11,258/350

= 32.16= 32(approx.) bales/day.

Total production of blow room:

= production of cotton + production of polyester

= 13,072 + 11,258

= 24,330 kg/day


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Cotton FlowChart

Auto Plucker

AutomaticBlender

B 11

Parcopine

VetalScan

ScutcherScutcher Scutcher

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Polyester FlowChart

ConveyorLattice

AutomaticBlender

B 50 B 50

AutomaticBlender

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Auto Plucker:Model A002DManufacturer ChinaWorking:

It is a machine used for the purpose of bale opening. Bale can be arranged as it is inside the machine or small tuft can put after opening the bale manually. Three motors are used in this machine. One motor for beater, second for to rotate the carriage and third one is used for lowering or lifting the carriage.

B11 (Uniclean):


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The uniclean B11 is an efficient cleaning and de-dusting machine, which is used immediately after bale opening. Cotton and other natural fibers such as flax can be cleaned and de-dusted gently.

PARCUPINE FA106A GILLING CYLINDER OPENER:

1. Application:

This machine is combined with Condenser. It's mainly used to treating C type fibres. Fibres are

carded and opened by the machine.

Vetal Scan:


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General View

Introduction:

The Cotton is scanned for the polypropylene impurities in the POLYSENSO Zone and

passes through the CAMERA Zone where it is scanned for color impurities and signals

the Nozzles to eject them by Airjets.


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Basic Principles of the Process:

The Vetal Scan - Cotton Contamination Cleaning Machine analyzes the cotton moving in the

illuminated zone by the Fluorescent tubes. The detected contamination is ejected out by the

Nozzle driven by the Electro Valve using the compressed air. The continuous running

contamination collection fan sucks the ejected material and thrown into the collection bag.

COLOR CONTAMINATION

Line Scan cameras detect the color contamination and effectively eject them WHITE /

TRANSPARENT POLYPROPYLENE CONTAMINATION

Improved detection and elimination of White / Transparent contamination has been

effectively achieved through the SONIC technology.

SCUTCHER:

Application:

This machine is used for dealing with raw cotton of various grades, staple fibre and shorter than 76mm mid fibre, comes out in laps which are to treated further by carding machine. Generally, this machine is used in combination with double Hopper feeder.

Production of Scutcher:

Production 13 oz/yard

Speed of Shell Roller 11 rpm

Shell Roller dia 9”


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Speed = 3.14 x 11 x 9

36

Speed = 8.63 yards/min

8.63 x 13 x 60 x 24 x 0.7 (Efficiency)

= ---------------------------------------------

16

= 7067.97 lbs/day

= 7067.97 x 3 lbs/day/3-scutcher

= 21203.91 lbs/day/3-scutcher

= 9618 kg/day/3-scutcher

Fine Cleaner B50:


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The Fine cleaner B 50 is suitable for all cotton provenances and man-made fibers with a

staple length of up to 65 mm. The material is conveyed with a fan into the lamella

chute, where the feeding distributes the material throughout the entire width of the

chute. Under the pressure of the fan the material is compressed into a Sheet. The air is

drawn off through the lamella and led into the filtration plant via the screening drum.


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The screening and blind drum draws the sheet towards the feeding cylinders. These grip

the sheet and lead it into the beating radius of the opening cylinder.

The opening cylinder breaks the sheet up into tufts, which are trailed over the grid

knives and combing segments. This causes the impurities to be separated from the

fibers and removed. The waste is suctioned off in intervals.

CARDING

INTRODUCTION


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"Card is the heart of the spinning mill" and "Well carded is half spun" are two

proverbs of the experts. These proverbs inform the immense significance of carding in

the spinning process. High production in carding to economies the process leads to

reduction in yarn quality. Higher the production, the more sensitive becomes the

carding operation and the greater danger of a negative influence on quality. The

technological change that has taken place in the process of carding is remarkable. Latest

machines achieve the production rate of 60 - 100 kgs / hr.

THE PURPOSE OF CARDING:

To open the flocks into individual fibers

Cleaning or elimination of impurities

Reduction of neps

Elimination of dust

Elimination of short fibers

Fiber blending

Sliver formation

Types of CARDING

There are two types of feeding to the cards

Feeding material in the form of lap

Chute feed system

Lap feeding:

Linear density of the lap is very good and it is easier to maintain (uniformity).

Auto levelers are not required, hence investment cost and maintenance cost is

less.

Transportation of lap needs more manual efforts (more labour)


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Lap run out is an additional source of fault, as it should be replaced by a new lap

More good fiber loss during lap change

More load on the taker-in, as laps are heavily compressed

Chute feeding:

High performance in carding due to high degree of openness of feed web.

Labour requirement is less due to no lap transportation and lap change in cards.

Chute feeding is the only solution for high production cards.

Linear density of the web fed to the card is not as good as lap.

Auto leveler is a must, hence investment cost and maintenance cost is more.

Trash and fly are removed from the processing elements of the machine by the card

cleaning system, and are transported from the machine by a central dust extraction

system.

Sliver weight is continuously regulated by the auto leveler system, and the completed

sliver is packaged into cans by the coiler.

An automatic can changer may be fitted.

The control system is based on a Card Controller which monitors machine operation

and provides operator control and safety interlocks.

Production parameters and other control settings are selected and monitored by means

of the Card Manager, which also displays production data.

PRODUCTION Of CARD:

Production of cotton cards:

Delivery speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 67(grains/yrd)

= ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ x efficiency


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7000 x 100

140 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 67

= -------------------------------------- X 0.80

7000 x 100

= 16.88 bags/day/card

Production of polyester cards:


= ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- x efficiency

7000 x 100

150 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70

= -------------------------------------- X 0.80

7000 x 100


COMBING

For high quality yarns the sliver is combed after carding to make the fibers more

parallel and remove the short fibers. Combing is the process which is used to upgrade

the raw material. It influences the following yarn quality

Yarn Evenness


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Yarn Strength

Yarn Cleanness

Yarn Smoothness

Visual Appearance

TECHNICAL POINTS IN COMBING:

The basic operation is to improve the mean length by removing short fibers.

Because of combing fiber parallelization increase.

Micronaire value after combing is less because the short fibers is removed.

Number of fibers per cross section increased so the strength of sliver also

increased.

Combing % is 15%-25% depending on the short fiber content.

Combed yarn needs less twist then the carded yarn.

But extra cost, machinery, staff and loss of material.

The combing machine is composed of eight heads which produce sliver. Each

combing head is composed of feeder roller which holds the web and rotate it with out

varying the structure.

The rollers rotate slowly with continuous drive and bring the web forward to the

combing unit made up of nippers which holds the fiber during the comb. The circular

comb is no doubt the most important device in the machine, it is composed of a circular

sector covered with needles and the density of the needles differ from the first lines to

the last line. The circular comb turns quickly in a positive direction, penetrating the tuft

of fiber to comb, removes the fibers that are not clasped by the nippers, and parallelized

the others. The circular comb completes around 200-250 rpm.


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The fibers which are clasped in the nipper again combed by the liner comb. This is

made up of a bar covered with very dense needles positioned vertically. The task of

liner comb is to straightened the fibers and remove the curl, letting past those

successfully combed and holding back those which will later be combed. These fibers

are later doubled by a drawing aggregate of four on top of five cylinders to make two

slivers which are taken to the collection cans.

Production

P G X (1 - 100) X NKg/H = ---------------------------------- X EFFICIENCY for (E7/4) 7 X Z

G = Feed Weight grms/mtr 59.10 P = Noil % age 18%

N = Nips / min 175


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Z = Feed Change Gear 74 T

18 59.10 X (1 - 100) X 175Kg/H = ---------------------------------- X 90 7 X 74

59.10 X (1 – 0.18) X 175Kg/H = ---------------------------------- X 90 7 X 74

59.10 X 0.82 X 175Kg/H = ---------------------------------- X 90 7 X 74

Kg/H = 14.73

Bags /Day = 7.79/comber P Feed Weight x Feed/nip x (1 - 100) x Nips/min x no.of Heads x 60Kg/H =------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ X Effi% 1000 x 1000 x 1.10

DRAW FRAME:Drawing is an operation by which slivers are blended, doubled or leveled and by

drafting reduced to proper sized sliver suitable of being fed to the simplex. Draw frame

contributes less than 5% to the production cost of yam; however its influence on quality

of yam is significant. Draw frame process considerably influences the final product, as

draw is last point of compensation for the elimination of errors produced by subsequent

m/c. the inadequacies in the sliver leaving the draw frame pass in to the yarn and are


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reinforced by the drafting after the draw frame that is why yam can never be better in

evenness than the sliver.

TASKS OF DRAW FRAME:

Through doubling the slivers are made even

Doubling results in homogenization(blending)

Through draft fibers get parallelized

Through the suction ,intensive dust removal is achieved

Auto leveler maintains absolute sliver fineness

Blending pc cvc pv etc

TECHNICAL POINTS:

Quality of the draw frame sliver determines the yarn quality.

Drawing is the final process of quality improvement in the spinning mill.

Drafting is the process of elongating a strand of fibers, with the intention of

orienting the fibers in the direction of the strand and reducing its linear density.

Drawing apart of the fibers is affected by fibers being carried along with the

roller surfaces. For this to occur, the fibers must move with the peripheral speed

of the rollers. This transfer of the roller speed to the fibers represents one of the

problems of drafting operation.

.

Roller drafting adds irregularities in the strand.

Drafting also actually reduced the strand irregularities by breaking down the

fiber groups. Drafting is accompanied by doubling on the draw frame, this

offsets the added irregularity.

Drafting arrangement is the heart of the draw frame. The drafting arrangement should

be


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Simple.

Stable design with smooth running of rollers.

Able to run at higher speeds and produce high quality product

Flexible i.e. suitable to process different materials, fiber lengths and sliver hanks.

Able to have good fiber control.

Easy to adjust. .

Drafting is affected by the following raw material factors:

No. of fibers in the cross section.

Fiber fineness.

Degree of parallelization of the fibers.

Compactness of the fiber strand.

DRAFTING WAVE:

Floating fibers are subject to two sets of forces acting in opposite directions. The more

number of fibers which are moving slowly because of the contact with the back rollers

restrain the floating fibers from accelerating. The long fibers in contact with the front

rollers tend to accelerate the floating fibers to the higher speed. As the floating fibers

move away from the back roller, the restraining force by back roller held fibers reduces,

and the front roller influence increases. At some balance point, a fiber accelerates

suddenly from low to high speed. This balance point is compounded by the laws of

Friction, static friction being higher than dynamic friction. When one floating fiber

accelerates, the neighboring short fibers suddenly feel one more element tending to

accelerate them and one fewer trying to restrain them. Thus there may be an avalanche

effect which results in drafting wave.

ADVANTAGES OF AUTOLEVELLER:

All variations are corrected

Count C.V % will be consistent and good.

Thin places in the sliver will be low

Ring frame breaks will come down, so that

o Pneumafil waste will be less


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o Fluff in the department will be less, therefore uster cuts will be less

o Fabric quality will be good because of lower number of fluff in the yarn

o Labour productivity will be more

o Machine productivity will be more

o Idle spindles will be less

RKM C.V % will be low, because of low number of thin places.

Sliver U%, hence yarn U% will be good

SETTING BLEND RATIOS:

Grains of polyester and cotton are set according to the drafting ability of the machines.

EXAMPLE PC 65/35

POLYESTER COTTON

GRAINS 71 67

NO OF CANES 5 3

SUB TOTAL 71X5= 355 67X3= 201

TOTAL GRAINS 355+201= 556


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AVERAGE OF POLYESTER 355 X 100 = 63.85%

556

AVERAGE OF COTTON 201 X 100 = 36.15%

556

EXAMPLE PC 52/48

POLYESTER COTTON

GRAINS 71 67

NO OF CANES 4 4

SUB TOTAL 71X4= 284 67X4= 268



552

AVERAGE OF COTTON 268 X 100 =48.55 %

552

EXAMPLE CVC 60/40

POLYESTER COTTON

GRAINS 71 67

NO OF CANES 3 5

SUB TOTAL 71X3= 213 67X5= 335

TOTAL GRAINS 213+335=548

AVERAGE OF POLYESTER 213 X 100 = 38.87 %

548



__________________________________________________

548

EXAMPLE CVC 80/20

POLYESTER COTTON

GRAINS 52 67

NO OF CANES 2 8

SUB TOTAL 52X2= 104 67X6= 402



506


506

PRODUCTION OF DRAWING: (BREAKER, INTER)

Draft:

“Reduction of weight per yard of sliver is called draft”

Grain feed

Draft = -------------------- x No. of doubling

Grain delivered

67

Draft = -------------------- x 8


__________________________________________________

70

Draft = 7.65

Production:

Speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.75(efficiency) = --------------------------------------------------------------------

7000

350 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.75 = ------------------------------------------

7000

= 4134 lbs/day per single hand

= 8268 lbs per two hand (1 m/c)

Production = 8268 lbs/day (1 m/c)

Drawing Reiter:


__________________________________________________

Drafting Zone:

The drafting system consists of a 4 over 3 drafting zone, equipped with:


__________________________________________________

Four top rollers Top rollers (1, 2. 3) Deflection roller (7);

Three bottom rolls back roll (4), Middle roll (5) Delivery roll (6).

One pressure bar (8).

The drafting system is suitable for:

Draft range of 4.48 ... 11.69, and

Fibers, ranging from comber nails to synthetic fibers with staple length of 80 mm.

Production of Drawing:

Draft:

Grain feed

Draft = --------------- x No. of doubling

Grain delivered

70

Draft = -------------------- x 6

70

= 6

Production:

Speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.85(efficiency) = --------------------------------------------------------------------

7000

450 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.85 = ------------------------------------------

7000

= 6023 lbs/day per single mic

=60.23 Bags/day

SIMPLEX FRAME / ROVING FRAME_______________________________________-43-

Prepared by: Asif Nawaz ELLCOT SPINNING MILLS LTD

__________________________________________________

Roving machine is complicated, liable to faults, causes defects, adds to production costs

and delivers a product that is sensitive in both winding and unwinding. This machine is

forced to use by the spinner for the following two reasons.

1) Sliver is thick, untwisted strand that tends to be hairy and to create fly. The draft

needed to convert this is around 300 to 500. Drafting arrangements of ring

frames are not capable of processing this strand in a single drafting operation to

create a yarn that meets all the normal demands on such yarns.

2) Draw frame cans represent the worst conceivable mode of transport and

presentation of feed material to the ring spinning frame.

TASKS OF ROVING FRAME:

Drafting the sliver into roving

Twisting the drafted strand

Winding the twisted roving on a bobbin

TECHNICAL POINTS

Fiber to fiber cohesion is less for combed slivers. Rollers in the creel can easily

create false drafts. Care must be taken to ensure that the slivers are passed to the

drafting arrangement without disturbance.

Bobbin and flyer are driven separately, so that winding of the twisted strand is

carried out by running the bobbin at a higher peripheral speed than the flyer.

The bobbin rail is moving up and down continuously, so that the coils must be

wound closely and parallel to one another to ensure that as much as material is

wound on the bobbin.


__________________________________________________

Since the diameter of the packages increases with each layer, the length of the

roving per coil also will increase. Therefore the speed of movement of bobbin

rail must be reduced by a small amount after each completed layer.

Length delivered by the front roller is always constant. Owing to the increase in

the diameter of the package for every up and down movement, the peripheral

speed of package should keep on changing , to maintain the same difference in

peripheral speeds between package and flyer.

Flyer inserts twist:

Each flyer rotation creates one turn in the roving. Twist per unit length of roving

depends upon the delivery rate.

Front roll delivery (inch/min) = (flyer rpm) / (TPI)

Turns per inch = (flyer rpm) / (Front roll delivery)

Higher levels of roving twist, therefore, always represent production losses in Roving

frame and possible draft problems in the ring spinning machine. But very low twist

levels will cause false drafts and roving breaks in the roving frame.

T.P.I

T.P.I depends on the following factors

Yarn Count

The finer counts require more twist because the number of fibers per cross section of

the thread is less.

Staple Length

The longer staple length of cotton requires less t.p.i as compare to the short staple

Man Made Fibers

Man made fibers require less t.p.i as compared to the natural fibers

Roving strength:


__________________________________________________

Roving strength is a major factor in determining winding limitations.

It must be high enough for the fibers to hold together in a cohesive

strand and low enough for satisfactory drafting at the spinning machine.

The factors affecting roving strength are as follows:

The length, fineness, and parallelization of fibers

The amount of twist and compactness of the roving.

The uniformity of twist and linear density.

Twist Multiplier:

T.M = T.P.I

Count

BLEND RATIOHANK

ROVINGCOUNT T.M T.P.I

PC 65/35 CDD 2.0 60 and above 0.676 0.956

PC 65/35 CMD 1.5 40-60 0.676 0.827

PC 52/48 CDD 1.10 24-40 0.757 0.794

PC 52/48 CMD 0.90 13-23 0.757 0.718

CVC 60/40 CDD 0.70 Below 13 0.777 0.650

pp 100% 0.92 10-14 0.777 0.745

PRODUCTION OF SIMPLEX

HANK ROVING = Draft x count feed

HANK ROVING = 7.73 x 0.119

HANK ROVING = 0.92


__________________________________________________

Total Draft

Count Delivered

Actual draft = ---------------------

Count Fed

0.92

Actual draft = -------------

0.119

Actual draft = 7.73

Avg. Spindle speed x 60 x No. Of Spindle x24 x Eff%

Prod. Of 20s = --------------------------------------------------------------

T.P.I x 36 x 840 x Count.

1000 x60 x120 x24 x 0.85

= -----------------------------------

0.718 x 36 x 840 x 0.90

= 7353lbs/day/frame

LENGTH OF FULL ROVING ON BOBBIN

=Weight of full bobbin x 840 x 36 x H.R

TOTAL TWIST ON BOBBIN

=Length of bobbin x T.P.I

TIME TO BUILD A BOBBIN

= total twist on bobbin

Flyer rpm


__________________________________________________

SIMPLEX FAULTS:-

1. More U %age:

More U % age or C.V. % in roving is due to more U % age in

Feeding sliver

.

2. UNEQUAL TAPER:

If taper at the both ends of package, stability will suffer.

3. STRETCHED ROVING:

Less reduction in roving make the roving finer then the actual count which increase U

% age and C.V. % age

4. SLUBS IN ROVING:

Causes

I. More waste in feeding material

II. More short fiber

IV. Fly accumulation on creel, etc.

5. MORE AND LESS TAPER TO PACKAGE

Causes:

Incorrect size of taper gear.


__________________________________________________

RING FRAME:After the roving frame yarn-manufacturing process is started. The process is

accomplished by using ring frame which performs following functions.

FUNCTIONS OF RING FRAME:

To draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved.

To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist.

To wind up the twisted strand (yarn) in a form suitable for storage, transportation

and further processing.


__________________________________________________

ADVANTAGES OF RING FRAME:

It is universally applicable, i.e. any material can be spun to any required count.

It is simple and easy to master.

The know-how is well established and accessible for everyone.

CREEL:

Creel is a simple device as design is concerned. These are mounted on several rails

arranged one behind the other and extending over the whole length of machine. There is

one holder for each spindle.

DRAFTING

Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the machine. It influences mainly

evenness and strength. If higher drafts can be used with a drafting arrangement, then

coarser roving can be used as a feeding material. This results in higher production rate

at the roving frame and thus reducing the number roving machines required, space,

personnel.

SPINDLE & THERE DRIVES:

Spindles and their drive have a great influence on power consumption and noise level in

the machine. The running characteristics of a spindle, especially imbalance and

eccentricity relative to the ring flange, also affect yarn quality and of course the number

of end breakage. Almost all yarn parameters are affected by poorly running spindles

LAPPET GUIDE:

Lappet guide performs the same sequence of movements as the ring rail, but with a

shorter stroke. This helps to control the yarn tension variation with in control, so that

ends down rate and yarn characteristics are under control.


__________________________________________________

Traveler:

Traveler imparts twist to the yarn. Traveler and spindle together help to wind the yarn

on the bobbin. Length wound up on the bobbin corresponds to the difference in

peripheral speeds of the spindle and traveler.

If traveler weight is too low, the bobbin becomes too soft. If a choice is available

between two traveler weights, then the heavier is normally selected, since it will give

greater cop weight, smoother running of the traveler and better transfer of heat out of

traveler.

When the yarn runs through the traveler, some fibers are liberated. Most of these fibers float

away as dust in to the atmosphere, but some remain caught on the traveler and they can

accumulate and form a tuft. This will increase the mass of traveler and will result in end break

because of higher yarn tension.

T.M

(Approximation)

BLEND RATIO WEAVING KNITTING

PC 65/35 3.35 3.0

PC 52/48 3.55 3.10

CVC 60/40 3.80 3.20

CVC 80/20 4.00 3.4

COTTON 100% 4.40 3.90

PP 100% 2.90 2.50


__________________________________________________

Actual draft =

Count delivered

= ---------------------------

Count fed

30

= --------------

0.92

= 32.60

Avg. Spindle speed x 60 x No. Of Spindles x 24 x Eff%

Production = -----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ounce / spindle/shift (ops)


= --------------------------------------------------------------------

T.P.I x 36 x 840 x Count

Average Count

(count1xbags)+ (count2xbags) + (count n x bags)

= -------------------------------------------------------------

Total bags

Average OPS

Total bags x 100 x 16

= ------------------------------------

3 x total spindles

COUNT OF DOUBLE YARN:


__________________________________________________

TM of double yarn is 0.7 of the single yarn

For example

30/1 CD W

TM of Single Yarn 4.50

TM of Double Yarn 4.5 x 0.7 = 3.15

Count of double yarn 15

TPI of double yarn = 3.15 15

TPI of double yarn = 12.19

TPI of double yarn = 12 - 13

If more then one counts need to be doubled

For example

30/1 and 40/1

1 1 1 1

-------- = -------- + --------- …………… --------------

Cr C1 C2 Cn

1 1 1

-------- = -------- + ---------

Cr 30 40

1 4 + 3 7

------- = ---------------------------- = -----------

Cr 120 120

1 7 120

-------- -------------- = Cr = -------- = 17.14

Cr 120 7

AUTO CONER


__________________________________________________

AUTO CONERThe winding process has become an integral part of most of the spinning.Thus the basic

function of winding machine is the transfer of yarn from number relatively small ring

bobbins on to wound big package suitable for transport and for further processing. The


__________________________________________________

winding machine also ensures the continuity of the yarn from these packages by proper

knotting or piecing. The 2nd important function of winding machine is the removal of

spinning faults, usually quite common in ring bobbins, these faults include, thick and

thin places, neps bad piecing, soft ends, loose lint and sloughing off, etc.

USUAL PASSAGE OF YARN:

In a typical winding machine the yarn passes from the supply bobbin through a

tensioning device, a slub remove, a tension bracket, over a package lever and finally on

to take up package.

Most modern winding machines are equipped with the thread detectors which detect the

presence of thread and if it is broken, it is automatically repaired by knotters or splicers.

The bobbins are placed in a magazine and when a bobbin finishes out it can be

automatically replaced a full one.

The tensioners detect whether the yarn passing through them is of the required strength

or not. If a yarn has a thin place, a bad piecing or soft ends it will not be able to tolerate

the exerted tension and will break. The faulty region is then removed and yarn is

knotted or pieced together by auto knotters or splicers. An unusually thick in the yarn

(slub) is removed by slub removers, which are of various types.

SPECIAL FEATURES OF MACHINE:

BAL-CON:

Bal-Con: The Balloon Controller.

Balloon control ring is attached to a specially designed electronic system comprises on

sensors. Balloon control ring and specially designed electronic system works as one

assembly. Both sensors sense the presence of yarn on bobbin. As sensors found no yam

in front of sensors the whole assembly slides down a little to keep the balloon length

constant. Thus balloon is kept constant from start of bobbin till end of bobbin. Hence


__________________________________________________

we are able to control yarn tension constant which causes yarn breaks. Thus breaks are

controlled. Thus enhancing the unwinding efficiency/speed.

PRE CLEARER:

It is situated after Bal-Con to control the passage of more than one thread, as some time

due to sloughing off more layers are collectively unwound that will trapped in the

clearer but it can damaged clearer.

SPLICER:

It is device used to join the two ends of yarn having same count in such away that one

can not distinguish between the parent yam and joint or in other words it splices them

together without a knot.

YARN CLEARER:

It detects thick, thin places, colored fibers, polythene and foreign matters etc.

FREQUENTLY OCCURING YARN FAULTS:

Yarn faults from staple fibers contains imperfections which can be subdivided in to the

following three categories.

Thick Places

Thin Places

Slubs

Thick and Thin places referring to those which can be classified the term

“imperfection” exceed +30% or -30% with respect to the mean value of yarn cross

section size. The type of imperfections referred as Neps can over step +100% limits. A

nep is a very short thick place in the yarn. It can be either a seed coat nep or fiber nep.

USTER SETTING:


__________________________________________________

S 150% 1.5 CM

L 40% 40 CM

T -40% 40CM

Auto cone production 30/s:

Delivery speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x60 x24 x no.spindles x eff%

Production = ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

840 x count x 100

1000 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 60 x 0.72

Production = ---------------------------------------------

840 x 30 x 100

Production = 54 bags/day/mic

Cone wt x ct x 840

Length = ---------------------------

1.0936

4.17 x 30 x 840

Length = ---------------------------

1.0936

Length = 96,090 meters

SPIN PLAN FOR 40/1 PC 52/48 CD K

Auto Cone:


__________________________________________________

Delivery speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x no.spindles x eff%

Production = ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

840 x count x 100

1000 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 60 x 0.72

Production = ---------------------------------------------

840 x 40 x 100

Production = 24.30 bags/day/auto cone

No of auto cones require = ring production/production of one auto cone

No of auto cones require = 265/24.30 = 10

Ring:


Production = ------------------------------------------------------------------

T.P.I x 36 x 840 x Count x 100

19,000x 60 x 480 x 24 x0.92

Production = ------------------------------------

19.60 x 36 x 840 x 40 x 100

= 5.09 bags/day/frame

=5.09x52= 265 bags/52 frames

SIMPLEX:

Ring consumption = 265x (100/100-waste)

Ring consumption = 265x (100/100-3)

Ring consumption = 273 bags

H.R =1.20 TM = 0.757 T.P.I = 0.829

Avg. Spindle speed x 60 x No. Of Spindle x24 x Eff%


__________________________________________________

Production = --------------------------------------------------------------


1100 x60 x120 x24 x 0.85

Production = --------------------------------------

0.829 x 36 x 840 x 1.20 x 100

Production = 53.70 bags/day/frame

No of simplex frame require = ring consumption/production of one simplex frame

No of simplex require=273/53.70

No of simplex require= 5 simplex

Finisher Drawing:

Simplex consumption: 273x (100/100-2)

Simplex consumption: 278.57bags

Production:

Speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.85(efficiency)

= --------------------------------------------------------------------

7000 x 100

400 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.85

= ------------------------------------------

7000 x 100

= 54.53bags/day/drawing

No of drawings require = simplex consumption/production of onedrawing

No of drawings require=278.57/54.53

No of simplex require= 5

Inter Drawing:


__________________________________________________

Finisher consumption: 278.57bags

Production:

Speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.75(effi) = --------------------------------------------------------------

7000 x 100

300 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.75 = ------------------------------------------

7000 x 100 = 35.43bags/day per single hand

= 70.68 bags (double delivery)

No of drawings require = finisher consumption/production of one drawing

No of drawings require=278.57/70.68

No of drawings require= 4

Polyester % = 278.57 x 0.52 = 144.85 bags

Cotton % = 278.57 x 0.48 = 133.71 bags

Card :( polyester)

Inter consumption: 144.85bags


= ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- x efficiency

7000 x 100

150 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 67

= -------------------------------------- X 0.80

7000 x 100


No of cards require = inter consumption/production of one card

No of cards =144.85/18.89

No of cards require for polyester= 8

Production of cotton cards:


__________________________________________________

Inter consumption: 133.71bags


= ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ x efficiency

7000 x 100

140 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 67

= -------------------------------------- X 0.80

7000 x 100


No of cards require = inter consumption/production of one card

No of cards =133.71/16.88

No of cards require for polyester= 8

BLOW ROOM:

Input of cotton cards = 133.71(100/100-16)

= 159.18 bags

No of bales require for cotton = 159.18 x 45.36/160

No of bales require for cotton = 45 bales

Input of polyester cards = 144.85(100/100-2)

= 147.80 bags

No of bales require for cotton = 147.80 x 45.36/350

No of bales require for polyester= 19 bales


__________________________________________________

TESTING & QUALITY CONTROL

INTRODUCTION:

The testing of fibers is always of critical importance to the spinner as the fiber

characteristics have a decisive impact on the running behaviour of the production

machines, as well as on the yam quality and manufacturing costs. The quality control

department plays an integral role in the modern spinning mills

Following are the test results obtained with HVI Spectrum.

The Result Abbreviation

Micronaire Mic.

Maturity Mat

Upper Half Mean

LengthUHML

Uniformity Index UI

Short Fiber index SFI

Strength Str

Elongation Elg

Moisture Moist.

Reflectance Rd

yellowness +b

Colour C Grade

Neps Nep


__________________________________________________

FIBER NEPS:

Fiber neps are generally defined as entanglements of several fibers. Mechanical

treatment of the cotton fibers during harvesting, ginning and opening and cleaning of

the fibers in the spinning plant generate them. Neps are reduced at carding and

combing. The amount of reduction highly depends on the machine performance, the

production level and the overall quality that the spinning mill wants to achieve.

NEPS DEVELOPMENT DURING PROCESS:

Neps do not "grow" on the plant. Seed cotton does not contain any neps. However, as

soon as the fibers are picked - and especially when they are picked mechanically neps

are introduced to the fibers. The amount of neps further increases in ginning and in

opening and cleaning of the spinning mill. The main reduction takes place during

carding and combing.


__________________________________________________

HARVESTING/ GINNING:

Neps are first created when the cotton is harvested mechanically (stripper or spindle

picked). Stripper harvesting is considered more aggressive than picker harvesting,

which can result in higher nep levels after ginning.

Also, different cotton varieties and origins are ginned by different ginning techniques:

Roller or saw ginned. Roller ginning is generally less aggressive and creates less neps.

Most long and extra long staple cottons are roller ginned since it preserves fiber length

better than saw ginning. However, roller gins have generally a much lower production

rate than saw gins. Therefore, most medium to short staple cottons are saw ginned

which results in higher nep and also higher short fiber content.

SEED COAT NEPS:

Seed coat neps are fragments of the cottonseed that still have some fibers attached.

They are created mainly in ginning when the fibers are being separated from the seed.

The amount of seed coat neps in raw cotton depends on the quality and the

aggressiveness of the ginning process.


__________________________________________________

MICRONAIRE (MIC-):

A fiber sample of constant weight is measured by pacing air through the fibers and

measuring the drop in pressure. Other factors such as fineness and maturity have an

influence on micronaire results.

Micronaire Description

Less than 3.0 Very fine

3.0 to 3.6 Fine

3.7 to 4.7 Medium

4.8 to 5.4 Coarse

5.5 and higher Very coarse

LENGTH:

Fiber length is one of the most important fiber properties. Each spinning system

requires a suitable fiber length in order to operate efficiently. In addition, the following

general rule applies for most cotton fibers:

Staple Description Inches Millimeters

Short < 1" <25.4

Medium 1 1/32" - 1 5/32" 26.2 - 29.4

Long 1 3/16" - 1 1/4" 30.2 - 31.7

Extra-Long > 1 9/32" >32.5


__________________________________________________

UNIFORMITY INDEX (UI):

The Uniformity index expresses the ratio of the Mean Length to the Upper Half Mean

length in percent.

Uniformity Index = Mean length /Upper Half Mean Length x 100.

Uniformity Index Description

Below 77 Very low77 to 80 Low81 to 84 Medium85 to 87 High87 and Higher Very High

SHORT FIBER INDEX (SFI):

The SFI is an indication of the amount of fibers (%) that arc less than 0.5 inches (12.7

mm) in length. It correlates very well to the AF1S Short Fibre Content by weight

(SFCw).

Short Fiber Index Description

Below 6 Very low

6 to 9 Low

10 to 13 Medium

14 to 17 High

18 and Higher Very High

.

STRENGTH:


__________________________________________________

The bundle strength is the breaking strength of the cotton fibers in grams per tex

Strength

(grams/Tex)Description

Lest than 21 Very weak

22 to 24 Weak

25 to 27 Medium

28 to 30 Strong

31 and Higher Very strong

ELONGATION (ELG.):

Elongation is measurement the elastic behavior of the bundle.

Elongation Description

Less than 5.0 Very low

5.0 to 5,8 LOW

5.0 to 6.7 Medium

6.8 to 7.6 High

7.7 and Higher Very High


__________________________________________________

MOISTURE (MOIST.):

Moisture is the percentage of water (H2O) that is present in the sample being nested.

Moisture in the cotton varies with time, temperature, and humidity to which the samples

have been exposed. The best level of precision and accuracy arc obtained when sample

moisture has an average of 6.5% - 8%.

Moisture Description

Below 4.5 Very low

4.5 to 6.5 Low

6.5 to 8.0 Medium

8.0 to 10.0 High

10.0 and Higher Very High

REFLECTANCE (Rd):

This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers.It is

used in conjunction with the yellowness (+b) to determine the instrument-measured

colour grade of the cotton.

YELLOWNESS (+b):

This value expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibre. The

yellowness (+b) of the sample is determined by using a yellow filter. It corresponds to

the +b value represented in the Nickerson/Hunter color chart.


__________________________________________________

USTER AFIS PRO (Advanced Fiber Instrument System)

Uster Afis Pro is the only instrument which calculates the single fiber in order to

calculate the neps in the sliver. it calculates the 3,000 fibers of the sample and

calculates the following

Mean Length by weight L (W)

Length Variation by weight L (W) cv%

Upper Quartile Length by weight UQL (W)

Short Fiber Content weight SFC (W)

Mean Length by Number L (N)

Length Variation by Number L (N) cv %

5%Length by Number L (N) 5%

Short Fiber Content Number SFC (N)

Maturity Ratio Mat

Immature Fiber Content IFC%

L (N)

“The mean length by number is the average fiber length of all fibers in the sample”

L (N) cv %

“The variation in length by number is the average fiber length of all fibers in the

sample”

L (N) 5%

“The 5% length by number is the length of longer 5% fibers in the cotton sample”

SFC (N)

“SFC by number is the %age of all the fibers in the cotton sample that are shorter then

0.5” or 12.7 mm.”

L (W)

“The mean length by weight is the average fiber length of all fibers in the sample”


__________________________________________________

L (W) cv %

“The variation in length by weight is the average fiber length of all fibers in the

sample”

SFC (W)

“SFC by weight is the %age of all the fibers with in the cotton sample that are shorter

then 0.5” or 12.7 mm.”

UQL (W)

“The upper quartile length by weight is the length which 25% of all fibers by weight

exceed in a cotton sample”

Range of Neps and Seed Coat Neps(SCN) in Raw Cotton

SHORT AND MEDIUM STAPLE

NEPS/G SCN/G DESCRIPTION

100 10 VERY LOW

101-200 11-20 LOW

201-300 21-30 MEDIUM

301-450 31-45 HIGH

451 46 VERY HIGH

LONG STAPLE


100 7 VERY LOW

101-150 8-12 LOW

151-200 13-20 MEDIUM

201-250 21-25 HIGH

251 20 VERY HIGH

SHORT FIBER CONTENT:


__________________________________________________

All the fibers have more or less the same length while still on the plant. Fiber length

reduced with any mechnical treatment during harvesting, ginning, opening and cleaning

in the spinning mill.

Short fiber content is expressed as a %age of all the fibers with in the cotton sample that

are shorter then 0.5” or 12.7 mm.”

SFC in SHORT AND MEDIUM STAPLE

SFC(N) SFC(W) DESCRIPTION

18 5 VERY LOW

19-23 6-8 LOW

24-28 9-11 MEDIUM

29-33 12-14 HIGH

34 15 VERY HIGH

SFC in LONG STAPLE


14 4 VERY LOW

14-18 4-6 LOW

19-22 6-7 MEDIUM

22-24 7-8 HIGH

24 8 VERY HIGH

MATURITY INDEX / IFC/ (MAT.):


__________________________________________________

The USTER AFIS PRO is the only instrument that measures the maturity of single

fibers, resulting in a maturity distribution within a cotton sample.

The AFIS measures maturity indirectly by measuring a two dimensional fiber shape.

The Immature Fiber Content (IFC) is the percent of all fibers within a cotton sample

that have a cell wall thickness covering less than 25% of the full area.

SHORT AND MEDIUM STAPLE

MATURITY DESCRIPTION IFC DESCRIPTION

0.7 VERY IMMATURE 6 VERY LOW

0.76-0.85 IMMATURE 6-8 LOW

0.86-0.90 MATURE 9-11 MEDIUM

0.91-0.95 MATURE 12-14 HIGH

0.96 VERY MATURE 15 VERY HIGH

LONG STAPLE

MATURITY DESCRIPTION IFC DESCRIPTION

0.8 VERY IMMATURE 6 VERY LOW

0.81-0.86 IMMATURE 6-8 LOW

0.87-0.92 MATURE 9-11 MEDIUM

0.93-0.95 MATURE 12-14 HIGH

0.96 VERY MATURE 15 VERY HIGH


__________________________________________________

Zweigle Hairiness Tester is used in the mill site to measure the hairiness in the

yarn. Hairiness is a descriptive term used to describe the larger number of fiber ends or

looped fibers projecting free from the yarn. Hairiness is expressed as

“The number of fibers projecting per unit length (mm)

METHOD OF MEASURING HAIRINESS:

The basis of the method of measurement is photometry. The projecting fibers

interrupt a light beam and creat a change in its brightness. This brightness is recorded

by phototransistors at a number of intervals that provide the test data. The yarn

is sensed by nine phototransistors simultaneously in different length zone

( 1,2,3,4,6,8,10,12,15mm) for the purpose of counting the number of projecting fibers.

Hairiness is generally regarded as undesirable because of the following reasons.

1. It adversely affects the appearance of yarns and fabrics. Hairiness in yarns leads

to fuzzy and hazy appearance of fabric. According to Uster 15% of fabric defects

and quality problems stem from hairiness.

2. Long hairs in yarn lead to more warp breaks and fabric defects like stitches and

floats.

3. Excessive lint droppings in sizing loom shed and during knitting are encountered

with hairy yarns because of shedding of hairs and broken hairs.

4. In printed goods, prints will be misty and lack sharpness if yarn is hairy.

5. In sewing breakages will be high with hairy yarns


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Is hairiness undesirable?

In spite of these drawbacks, hairiness has some beneficial effects. It adds to the textile

character of the fabric and contributes to comfort, liveliness, skin friendliness and

warmth. This will be apparent from a comparison of fabrics made from filament yarn

and staple fibre yarn of the same type of fibre and count. Fabric made from filament

yarn will have ‘plastic’ feel. Warmth found in woollen cardigans, shawls and flannel

fabrics is to some extent due to hairiness. Hairiness also adds to fullness and cover of

fabric. Further hairiness assists weft insertion in air jet looms because of grip provided

by it.

Factors influencing Hairiness:

Fibre length, short fibre content, fineness and rigidity are the most important

properties of fibre that influence hairiness.

A significant correlation is found between hairiness and fibre length and

uniformity ratio.

Yarns from shorter and variable cottons are more hairy. As a result any process

from picking to ginning to opening of cotton those results in fibre breakages will

increase hairiness in yarns.

Hairiness increases with coarseness of fibre, because of higher resistance to

twisting.

Hairiness is higher with very low and very high micronaire cottons. Hairiness is

lowest with cottons of 4.2 – 4.4 micronaire. With low micronaire cottons, fibre

breakages will be higher and sticking tendency will also be more. As a result,

hairiness will be higher. With high micronaire cottons, fibre rigidity will be more

leading to higher hairiness.

Fibre length and short fibre content have maximum influence on hairiness.


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Mode of formation:

Count and twist have considerable influence on hairiness.

Higher spindle speed is generally found to increase hairiness.

Heavier traveller up to a limit reduces hairiness because of improved flow of

twist to front roller nip.

Hairiness is found to increase over the traveller replacement cycle because of

traveller wear and tear.

Worn out ring is a major cause of hairiness, when rings are more than 3 years

old, hairiness starts increasing. Replacement of rings will bring significant

reduction in hairiness.

Disturbed spindle centering is one of the major causes for the spindle-to-spindle

variation in hairiness. On spindles where cantering is disturbed, hairiness is

found to be higher and upon accurate centering hairiness comes down

significantly.

Recommended humidity in ring frame department is 55 – 60%. At higher

humidity levels, fibres tend to stick to drafting rollers resulting in protruding

hairs and loops. At low humidity levels static generation causes repulsion of

fibres, particularly with p/v and p/c blends, leading to more hairiness.


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Modifications to Reduce Hairiness

Compact Spinning

Major cause for hairiness is the spinning triangle at front roller delivery point, which

restricts flow of twist up to nip. In compact spinning, a condensing zone is introduced

after normal drafting zone, as a result, the strand width becomes closer to yarn diameter

and the size of spinning triangle is considerably reduced. Selvedge fibres get fully

integrated into yarn and projecting fibres are markedly reduced.

Comparison of Compact and Normal spinning

Several manufacturers have developed compact spinning based on different versions of

condensing system.


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SuessenEliTe

The condensing zone consists of a lattice apron, located at the bottom and driven by the

delivery top roller. The apron runs over a profile tube, which has a slot S, at the

middle. Suction is applied through the slot. Front top roller of drafting system drives the

delivery top roller through a gear. The diameter of delivery roller is slightly higher than

front roller of drafting system, due to which the fibres in the strand are delivered in a

straightened condition. Air drawn through inclined slot causes rotation of fibres around

their axis, which contributes to better integration of short fibres into strand.

Seussenelite Compact Spinning

Rieter Comfor Spin System:


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A perforated drum replaces the front bottom roller of drafting . A stationery insert, I,

with a specially designed suction slot, in the middle over a length S, is located inside

the drum. Apart from the normal top roller a second nip roller, with weighting, is also

placed on the drum. Condensation of strand takes place in the zone between the top

roller and nip roller As a result of suction inside the drum, the fibres follow the suction

slot and get condensed. An air guide element ensures that suction operates in the slot

area. The system is suitable only cottons beyond 1.07 inch length and is therefore

applicable for finer counts. .

Rieter ComforSpin Compact Spinning


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Compact spinning has however the following limitations

The improvements in hairiness and strength are marginal with long staple

cottons with higher uniformity in fibre length. The system may not be

advantageous in combed counts as short fibre content will be low.

Power consumption will be higher as power is required to run suction motor

Maintenance and cleaning cost will be higher as the perforated aprons; slots have

to be cleaned regularly

PACKING


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Packing is the last stage in the yarn manufacturing process. Packing incharge under the

super vision of GM mills is held responsible for all the issues relating to the packing of

the yarn. There are two types of packing

Export Packing

“Cartons are used in the export packing”

Local Packing

“Poly propylene bags are used for local packing”

Each bag weight is 100 lbs or 45.36 kgs(excluding tare)

In packing department following kinds of cones are packed:

4.17 lbs(24 cones/Bag)



24 CONES EXPORT PACKINGParticulars Specifications weightCARTONS WITH SHEET 30.5X13.5X23" 1.585(Kg)PAPER CONE 5PLY 1.44(Kg)POLYTHENE BAG 15X18" 82.8(g)BAILING HOOPS 80(g)BAILING CLIPS 7(g)PACKING TAPE 72 yards 35(g)TOTAL 3.23(Kg)

40 CONES EXPORT PACKINGParticulars Specifications weightCARTONS WITH SHEET 30.5X13.5X24" 1.635(Kg)PAPER CONE 5PLY 2.4(Kg)POLYTHENE BAG 12X16" 102.56(g)BAILING HOOPS 80(g)BAILING CLIPS 7(g)PACKING TAPE 72 yards 35(g)TOTAL 4.26(Kg)

40 CONES EXPORT PACKINGParticulars Specifications weight


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CARTONS WITH SHEET 31X13.5X26" 1.685(Kg)PAPER CONE 5PLY 2.4(Kg)POLYTHENE BAG 12X16" 102.56(g)BAILING HOOPS 80(g)BAILING CLIPS 7(g)PACKING TAPE 72 yards 35(g)TOTAL 4.31(Kg)

48 CONES EXPORT PACKINGParticulars Specifications weightCARTONS WITH SHEET 33X13.5X22.5" 1.735(Kg)PAPER CONE 5PLY 2.88(Kg)POLYTHENE BAG 12X16" 123.07(g)BAILING HOOPS 80(g)BAILING CLIPS 7(g)PACKING TAPE 72 yards 35(g)TOTAL 4.86(Kg)

24 CONES LOCAL PACKINGParticulars Specifications weightPOLYPROPYLENE BAGS 33X46" 125(g)PAPER CONE 5PLY 1.44(Kg)POLYTHENE BAG 15X18" 82.8(g)JUTE STRING 5(g)TOTAL 1.65(Kg)

40 CONES LOCAL PACKINGParticulars Specifications weightPOLYPROPYLENE BAGS 36x46" 130(g)PAPER CONE 5PLY 2.4(Kg)POLYTHENE BAG 12X16" 102.56(g)JUTE STRING 5(g)TOTAL 2.63(Kg)

Pallet Packing:


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On demand of the customer wooden pallet packing is also use. It is easy to handle and transport.

Pallet Detail

Count 30/1 pc 52/48 Cone Weight 4.167 lbsNo of cones per layer 7 x 6 = 42No of layers 14Cones per pallet 42 x 14 = 588Net yarn weight per pallet kg 1.89 x = 1111.32 kg Total yarn weight net 18 x 1111.32 = 20003.76 kg

DESCRIPTION ONE PALLETKGS

18 PALLETSKGS

Wooden Pallet(45 x 52”) 26 468Corner Sheets(24 x 96”) 4.25 76.5Sheets(Plain+Hole) 38.94 700.92Rapping Film 0.9 16.2Paper Cones(588) 35 630Polythene Bags 2.20 39.60Bailing Hopes and Clip 0.15 2.7Pallet Tare 107.44 1933.92


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PROCEDURE FOR DESPATCH OF FINISHED GOODS

1.0 RESPONSIBILITY; Excise incharge under the supervision of C.M.A is responsible for all the activities of dispatch.

3.0 PROCEDURE;

3.1 PRODUCTION;

a) Every morning, the production incharge gives the detail of yarn produced during the

last 24 hours. using cones counting basis, to excise incharge.On the basis of

information received, excise incharge prepares Yarn Production Report in bags.

This report is E-mail to accounts and marketing department at head office.

b) Packing incharge arranges the packing of cones in bags with the help of palledar

team. After packing, excise incharge arranges weighment of yarn bags with the help

of palledar team and notes down the weights of these bags on Yarn Weighment

Performa.

c) After packing and weighment, the bags of yarn are labeled according to the

instructions received from the marketing department.

d) After labeling, excise incharge arranges stacking of bags in godown EB-4,

according to there count and blend, with the help of palledar team. After staking,

excise incharge prepares Daily Yarn Stock Report and Yarn Weighment Report.

This report is E-mail to accounts and marketing department at head office.

3.2 DESPATCH/CLEARANCE;

Delivery Order is issued by Manager Marketing to dispatch the Yarn for export and

local. On receipt of Delivery Order, excise Incharge and security officer check

signature with specimen available to them, to confirm its validity. The excise

incharge also checks the particulars of goods to be dispatched with the Daily Yarn

Stock Report. In case of any discrepancy, he immediately informs the C.M.A at

mills and marketing department at head office.


__________________________________________________

3.2.1 LOCAL DESPATCH/CLEARANCE

a) After receipt and verification of Delivery Order, excise incharge arranges the

transportation for consignment, if not done by the buyer.

b) On arrival of vehicle at mills gate the particulars of vehicle are verified with bilty.

Then, in the presence of security guard it is weighed on the weigh bridge located

near the mills.

c) After weighment, the vehicle particulars are recorded in the Yarn Dispatch Register

maintained at mills gate.

d) For loading of yarn , the following three officers are present in the yarn stock

godown EB-4

Excise incharge

Packing incharge

Security inspector

These three officers physically count the stock of yarn in godown EB-4 before

loading and note down on Yarn Delivery Performa.In the absence of excise

incharge, management trainee and in the absence of packing incharge assistant

spinning master arranges loading.

e) These officers then, in there presence, allow loading of yarn in the vehicle, as per

Delivery Order, these goods are loaded in the vehicle through trolleys by palledar

team.

f) During loading, on exit of every trolley, the number of bags are noted down on

Yarn Delivery Performa taken by the trolley to the vehicle.

g) The stock in the godown after loading is physically re-checked by the above said

officers to confirm that the physical stock is equal to the quantity calculated by

deducting the Delivery Order quantity from the stock physically counted before

loading.

h) The excise incharge prepares the Outward gate pass in quadruplicate. White copy

for accounts deportment at head office, blue for mills gate, yellow for customer and

pink is retained for record. The Outward gate pass is authorized by G.M and C.M.A


__________________________________________________

.In the absence of G.M, it signed by M.M and in the absence of C.M.A. the person

who is authorized to do so sign it.

i) The excise incharge also maintains Sales Tax Invoice register (Annexure-I) for

sales tax purpose. Every OGP is given a particular number from Sales Tax Invoice

register and sent to accounts department on daily basis.

j) The excise incharge gives two sets of documents to the driver. First set contains

yellow copy of gate pass and bilty(original bilty is kept for record) where as the

second set contains copy of delivery order(fax copy),white and blue copy of gate

pass. After, this he allows the vehicle to go at mills gate

k) At mills gate, driver gives the second set of documents to the security personal who

compares the delivery order and gate pass. The vehicle is reweighed on the same

weighbridge. If all the documents are in order then security inspector stamp

“DELIVERD” on the back of Delivery Order and allows the vehicle to pass the

gate. He also makes the entry in Yarn Dispatch Register .

3.2.2 EXPORT DESPATCH/CLEARANCE

a) In case of export dispatch, export manager at head office arranges the transport for

the consignment.

b) Excise incharge examines the condition of container and confirms whether it meets

the export standards, free from all kinds of harmful objects, which may deteriorate

yarn quality etc.

c) Point no 3.2.1(b) to (k) above points are as they are, except weighment of empty

and load vehicle.

3.2.3 The excise incharge also prepares Yarn Clearance Report. Yarn Clearance Report

is sent through E-mail to accounts, marketing and internal audit departments at head

office.

3.2.4 The excise incharge also maintains Third Party Stock Register.


__________________________________________________

MACHINERY LIST UNIT-1Sr# Department Name of Machine Make Modle Year Qty.1 Mixing Auto plucker China F A 00 1994 1

Auto plucker China A O 45 B 1989 2Wste opener(polyestr)

Parco pine opner China F A 106 AA 1989 1

Bale opner (cotton)

Auto plucker China F A 00 1994 1

Auto plucker China F A 002 D 2003 1Pan condencer China 1989 2

2 Blow Room Auto blender China A 000 685 1989 1Auto blender China A 000 685 1996 1Auto blender China A 000 685 2000 2B 11 Rieter Swiss B 11 2003 1Vetal scan (48 Series)

IndiaCccm 03/ S 48 S

2007 1

B 50 Reiter Swiss B 50 2003 1Scutcher China FA 141 1989 4

3 Carding Card Crossrol England MK 5 A 1992 4Card Crossrol England MK 5 A 1998 4Card Crossrol England MK 5 B 1997 4Card Crossrol England MK 5 C 1997 4Card Crossrol England MK 5 D 2000 13

4 Combing Sliver Lap Rieter Swiss E2 / 4A 1973 1Sliver Lap Rieter Swiss E2 / 4A 1982 1Sliver Lap Rieter Swiss E2 / 4A 1987 1Ribbon Lap Rieter Swiss E4 / 1A 1973 1Ribbon Lap Rieter Swiss E4 / 1A 1980 1Ribbon Lap Rieter Swiss E4 / 1A 1987 1Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1972 2Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1973 2Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1974 2Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1975 5Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1976 2Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1978 5Comber Rieter Swiss E7 / 4 1984 2

5 Drawing Drawing CheryHara DX 500 1989 7Drawing Toyoda DYH 20 1986 2Drawing Toyoda DYH 500C 1989 8Drawing Reiter RSBD 30 C 2000 7Drawing Reiter RSBD 30 2001 1


__________________________________________________

6 Simplex Simplex Toyoda FL- 16 1989 3

Simplex Toyoda FL- 16 1991 6

7 Ring Ring China FA 502 1989 42Ring China FA 502 1991 10

Auto Cone Murata Mach Coner Japan 7-2 1989 3Murata Mach Coner Japan 7-2 1987 1Murata Mach Coner Japan 7-2 1991 2Murata Mach Coner Japan 7-5 2001 6Murata Mach Coner Japan 21 C 2006 1


__________________________________________________

MACHINERY LIST UNIT-2Sr# Departme

ntName of Machine Make Modle Year Qty.

1 Blow Room Uni Flock(Reiter) Swiss A-11 2004 1Line-1 Metal Detector(Jossi) Swiss 2004 1

Uni Clean(Reiter) Swiss B-11 2004 1Uni Mix(Reiter) Swiss B-70 2004 2Uni Flex(Reiter) Swiss B-60 2004 2Vision Shield(Jossi) Swiss 2006 2

Blow Room Auto Plucker China FA002 D 1989 1 Line-2 Mixing Bale Opner Swiss B-34 2006 1

Metal Detector(Jossi) Swiss 2006 1Uni Clean(Reiter) Swiss B-11 2006 1Mixing Opner Swiss B-33 2006 1

2 Card Card(Reiter) Swiss C-51 2004 14Card(Reiter) Swiss C-51 2006 2

3 Pre Comber Drawing(Reiter) Swiss SB-2 2004 3Lap Former Uni Lap(Reiter) Swiss E5/3 1996 1Lap Former Uni Lap(Reiter) Swiss E-32 2005 1

4 Comber Comber(Reiter) Swiss E7/6 1996 4Comber(Reiter) Swiss E-65 2005 6

5 Drawing Drawing(Reiter) Swiss RSB-D35 2003 1Drawing(Reiter) Swiss RSB-D35 2004 4

6 Simplex Simplex(Toyoda) Japan FL-100 2004 3Simplex(Toyoda) Japan FL-100 2005 2Simplex China F 415 A 2003 3

7 Ring Ring(Jingwie) China F 1520 2003 17Ring Lycra Attachment China F 1520 2003 8Ring(Jingwie) China F 1520 2004 12Ring Sussen Compact China F 1520 2004 10Ring China Compact China F 1520 2008 1Ring Comfore(Reiter) Swiss K-44+ 2007 4

8 Auto Cone Murata Mach Coner Japan 21-C 2004 6Savio Italy Orion 2006 2Savio Italy Polar 2007 1

9 Packing Pallet Machine Taiwan NCML 110 Laboratory Wrapping Reel Hitachi No.6161 1

Lea Strength Asano 1206 1


__________________________________________________

Board Making Machine Asano No.6111 1Uster Tester Swiss 2007 1Zweigle Hairiness Tester German G-567 2007 1Uster Afis Pro 2 Swiss 2007 1


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