NEW CLOTH MARKET : Discover the Carbon Footprint EXECUTIVE PAGES from the OCTOBER 2011 ISSUE

8/3/2019 NEW CLOTH MARKET : Discover the Carbon Footprint EXECUTIVE PAGES from the OCTOBER 2011 ISSUE

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Discover the Carbon FootprintBenninger AG at ITMA Barcelona 2011

The CO2 footprint is used to describe the complete greenhouse gas emissions which are associated with

a product.Awareness is only given whenfigures are permanently announced.For textile products Benningeris taking over globally the leading role to inform end-users about the Carbon Footprint of textiles. Thusincludes lifecycle assessments from (cradle to grave) for consumers, but also textile engineers andexperts receive detailed information about each single textile process and recipe. Both action will opennew sights and strengthen the awareness to avoid CO2 emissions.These are the triggers for new inno-vations and for a cleaner world. Any visitor at our booth at the ITMA can discover with our expertise hisown textile footprint.

Benninger has chosen several options to show carbon reductions in textile finishing. The following Car-bon Hotspots are identified:

- minimizing number of drying processes- minimizing steam and water consumption during washing processes thanks to high efficiency washing- replacing the resource intensive exhaust dyeing process by CPB dyeing

Upgrading quality standards whilst saving resource

Cotton as a natural fibre requires a huge amount of arable land and irrigation water. Cotton prices arerising since years and reached a peak in 2010. Especially long staple cotton is hardly available. As aconsequence more and more short stable cotton is used. Mercerizing is getting more and more importantin order to keep the high quality standard. The worldwide cotton shortage leads into a remarkable in-crease of man-made cellulosic fibres such as Viscose and Tencel. State of the art Viscose fibre manu-facturing plants allow to produce fibres nearly carbon neutral. Pulp is received from trees which embedCO2 and water consumption is only 1/50 compared to cotton farming.

Benninger shows on the ITMA a new mercerizing concept which is suitable for mercerizing cotton, butalso causiticizing Viscose fibres, for both woven as well as knitted fabrics. Mercerized or causticized

textiles do require less chemicals and less dyestuff during the textile processing chain. Benningers weton wet mercerizing concept does not require a resource intensive intermediated drying stage. Conse-quently carbon emissions are reduced by 40%.

High washing performance means less fresh water is consumed.

Washing on Benningers high efficiency TRIKOFLEX drum washer with mechanical supported front andback washing reduces the water consumption by more than 50% compared to classical washers. Simul-taneously the energy required to heat up the washing water (biggest Carbon polluter) is reduced and hasthe biggest impact on carbon reduction. Additionally the integrated heat recovery system and the insula-tion of the washing box reduce also the energy requirement.

60% CO2 reduction by replacement of the exhaust dyeing process

Despite the massive efforts of machine designers to reduce the liquor ratio, the finishing of knitwear in jetdyeing machines still requires large amounts of water and therefore also large amounts of energy. Bycontrast, in addition to quality benefits the continuous open width finishing process also offers savingsparticularly in terms of water and energy. In continuous mode, CO2 emissions can be reduced by nearly2/3 in comparison to exhaust dyeing processes (liquor ratio of 1:7). Benningers TRIKOFLEX bleachingand washing plants and the Benninger Ksters DyePad suit this type of application perfectly.

With the CPB dyeing process the reactive dye is fixed at room temperature. Thanks to modern CPBdyeing centres with controlled dyeing conditions and the developments in terms of the dyes themselves,this method for cellulose fibres for woven fabrics and knitwear can be used without restriction anywherein the world. Savings are made not only because the dye is set at room temperature, but also becausethe intermediate drying process after the dye application on a HOTFLUE is eliminated. The heart of a

CPB dyeing station is the padder. The Benninger Ksters DyePad is the only dyeing padder in the worldwhich features the original S-Roll Technology. This allows to run product-specific correction profiles for


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the dye application. As a result, this technique therefore not only sets the benchmark from an environ-mental and commercial point of view, but also in terms of quality. Benninger shows at the ITMA acomplete CPB dyeing center. Special highlights such as dyeing with only 2 l dye liquor during nip dyeingand just in time dyestuff solution preparation improve the process reproducibility and reliability, but re-duce another time the consumption of dyes and chemicals.

Another ITMA highlight is Benningers new remote management information system which is suitable forall type of smartphones and table PCs. Important machine and recipe figures will be available at any

Benninger Mercerizing Range

BenningerTRIKOFLEX


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Benninger Bleaching Range

Benninger Ksters DyePad


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time and any place. Beside production data and machine status information, machine efficiency andmaintenance status, the actual consumption data will also be judged and graphically shown as carbonfootprint.

Textile products which are finished on Benninger systems have an excellent impact on the environment.What particularly stands out is the low water consumption of the Benninger finishing machines forknitwear and woven fabrics.Beside this one particular highlight is the recycling of water and energy fromBenninger plants, with the aid of which it is now possible to refine textile systems to the stage where the

discharge of waste water is reduced to zero.For further information please contact:

Irene Muggler (Marketing)Benninger AG9240 Uzwil, SwitzerlandT +41 71 955 85 11 F +41 71 955 87 47 [email protected] www.benningergroup.com

Benninger Ready for the NewCarbon Footprint Regulations

Jurgen Strohle and Gerhard SchramekBenninger AG, Uzwil, Switzerland

Textile products which are finished on Benninger systems have an excellent impact on the environment.Carbon and water footprints have been evaluated for a wide range of very different products, and auniversal calculation model has been developed.What particularly stands out is the low water consump-tion of the Benninger finishing machines for knitwear and woven fabrics. This in turn results in the lowenergy consumption and the equivalent CO2 emissions. Benninger has also achieved excellent resultsin terms of the consumption of chemicals.The accurate and controlled consumption of chemicals has abeneficial effect for the environment.

The concept of the 'carbon footprint' is used to describe the complete greenhouse gas emissions which

are associated with a product, and it is quoted as a CO2 emission in grams of CO2 per kilogram of fabric.The 'water footprint' is the water equivalent to the carbon footprint and is usually quoted in litres of waterper kilogram of fabric. A wide range of very different greenhouse gas emitters are involved throughout thelifecycle of a textile product. In the case of cotton, the irrigation of the cotton plant accounts for the bulkof the water consumption within the lifecycle. By contrast, the production of synthetic fibres results inhigher CO2 emissions. During the daily use of the textiles, CO2 emissions are caused and water is usedby the home laundry wash and dry process and even the disposal of used textiles are associated withemissions. Emissions play a hugely important role within the lifecycle assessment and can be seen inFig. 1, which shows a case study for a dyed T-shirt. However, within the framework of an internal study,Benninger has restricted itself to looking at the portion of the emissions it can influence, i.e. the wetfinishing process.

Fig. 1: Lifecycle assessment for a T-Shirt (100% cotton)

Cotton Spinning Knitt ing Finishing Garmenting Transport Use Disposal

Farming Ne 30's SJ (Jet) 30xwash60C+ tumbler

CO2 Emission 10% 19% 1% 22% 2% 2% 42% 2%

Water (H2O) 82% - - 5% - - 13% -

CO2 consumers within the textile finishing process

The CO2 emissions are caused directly by the energy consumers and indirectly by the operating fluidsand auxiliaries (chemicals, lubricants etc.) which are used.


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Table 1: Energy consumers in the finishing of cotton and cotton blends

Process/consumer Primary s ource o f energy u sed CO2 emissions

Singeing Gas Low

Washing/Heating energy Steam High

Steaming/Reaction clima Steam Moderate

Drying/Evaporation energy Gas/coal/steam High

Fabric transport Electricity Low

Air conditioning technology/ Electricity LowExhaust air

Chemicals -------- Low

Fig. 2 : Breakdown of CO2 emissions in finish-ing processes cotton bottom weight trouser

Process CO2 Equivalent

Singeing & Desizing 8.5%

Bleaching 14.7%

Mercerizing 13.6%

Drying 9.1%

Dyeing (Pad-Dry) 14.1%

Dyeing ( Pad-Steam) 14.0%

Drying 8.7%

Finishing 17.3%

50% for Drying

30% for Steamers and water heating

20% for gas and chemicals

Fig. 2 shows the breakdown of CO2 emissionsfor a classic textile finishing process for a cot-ton trouser. Within the individual process steps,the individualCO2 emissions are homogeneouslydistributed throughout. If we consider the fac-tors giving rise to the emissions, we can seethat around 50% are accounted for the dryingprocesses and 30% for washing and steaming.

The remaining 20% are required by the chemi-cals used, the gas required for the singeing pro-cess and the electricity.This distribution reflectsa fully continuous finishing process. In the con-ventional finishing of knitwear by the exhaustdyeing process, the CO2 emissions are domi-nated by the heating of the water (up to 90 l/kg)which accounts for 60%.

Regional differences

Investigations in the textile finishing industryhave highlighted some clear regional differences.The CO2 emissions depend to a very large ex-tent on the type of energy source which is used.This applies both to the heating of drying equipment andalso to the generation of steam. Whereas mostly gas and light oil are used as the source of energy inEurope, coal is the preferred energy carrier in Asia. For example, the CO2 emissions associated with thedelivery of a particular energy value with natural gas are only around 50% of those produced when coalis used as the energy source.While modern boiler systems are used in the majority of cases in Europe,Asian producers generally fall back on simpler systems which are approximately 25% less energy effi-cient.There are large regional variations in the CO2 emissions associated with the generation of electric-ity - a factor which is more significant in spinning mills than in textile finishing (share of energy consump-

tion < 5%).The production of electric energy from hydroelectric power stations reflects better on the CO2balance than thermal power stations. Countries in the western EU and South America, particularly Brazil,do better in this regard than countries in Southern Asia and Eastern Asia, the Middle East, the USA and- in some cases - in Eastern Europe.

Optimisation of CO2 emissions

1. Optimising the environmental impact of existing textile processes

Benninger has a specialist team at its disposal which is on hand at any time to analyse and optimisetextile production processes and the machinery and equipment which are used, as well as to calculatethe corresponding carbon and water footprints. Based on the fishbone concept of Japanese quality

expert Kauro Ishikawa, Benninger has developed a 5M concept for assessing the environmental com-patibility of a textile production facility. Here, the methods and processes, machines, chemicals and


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auxiliary materials, the mass balance and the environmental behaviour of the personnel (man) are inde-pendently assessed and optimised in terms of their environmental relevance.

2. Elimination of intermediate drying processes

One good option is to perform the mercerizing process according to the so-called wet/wet processwithout previous intermediate drying.To do this, a high efficient squeezing unit and a waste water heatedwetting-out box is placed before the mercerizing range. The lye concentration is monitored and kept

constant with the aid of modern sensor systems and a lye management programme.This type of plantupgrade takes less than a year to pay for itself.

In the CPB dyeing process the reactive dye is set by allowing it to dwell and react at room temperature.Thanks to modern CPB dyeing centres with controlled dyeing conditions and the developments in termsof the dyes themselves, this method for cellulose fibres for woven fabrics and knitwear can be usedwithout restriction anywhere in the world. Savings are made not only because the dye is set at roomtemperature, but also because the intermediate drying process after the dye application on a hot flue iseliminated.The heart of a CPB dyeing station is the padder.The Benninger Kusters DyePad is the onlycolour padder in the world which features the original S-roller technology. This makes it possible to runproduct-specific correction profiles for the dye application. As a result, this technique therefore not onlysets the benchmark from an environmental and commercial point of view, but also in terms of quality.

Fig. 3 : CPB bleaching process

3. High washing performance means less fresh water is consumed

Washing studies which have long been published show that a combination of counterflow washing andgood liquor separation can hugely reduce water consumption. Counterflow washing is today seen as thestate-of-the-art and therefore requires no further explanation. However, despite the significant improve-ment in washing performance, the intensive liquor separation from one washing chamber to the next ishardly available from any machine builders. The additional cost and complexity of such washing com-partments in terms of machine design are often overstated. A holistic cost assessment shows that this

extra effort is more than justified. With strict liquorseparation, less dirt iscarried into the nextwashing chamber. Thismeans that using the

same washing zones withliquor separation and 4 l/kg washing water, thesame washing result canbe achieved as with 10 l/kg and no liquor separa-tion (Fig. 4).

For years Benninger hasbased its washing sys-tems on the EXTRACTAwashing principle. Liquorseparation is achieved

between the individualwashing chambers by

Fig. 4: Washing curves with different quantities of water and differentwashing principles


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which are used. Special attention has been paid to keeping the running costs and maintenance costs toa minimum.

4. Recycling of valuable materials

The best known application is the recovery of thermal energy from hot waste water. So-called water/waterheat exchangers are used here. This method can be used particularly efficiently on the continuouslyoperating Benninger plants. The required fresh water is heated up "just in time" by the overflowing wastewater using the counterflow principle. At the same time the waste water is also cooled, which wouldotherwise need to be done by other means in order to comply with applicable discharge legislation.The

amortisation period for integrated heat exchangers on Benninger plants is less than six months.

A new option for recycling resources can be opened up by recycling waste water using filtration tech-niques. Modern chemicals and temperature-resistant ceramic membranes are increasing the availabilityof these techniques in the textile industry. Benninger has been successfully active in this area since2008. A recycling rate of up to 90% of the accumulated quantity of waste water does more than just helpthe environmental balance though.The purified waste water can be used in all areas of textile production.Although membrane filtration systems are electrically operated, the overall energy balance and thereforethe carbon footprint is reduced by around 12%. Under certain circumstances it is now already pos-sible to run waste water free textile operations (so-called 'zero discharge').

5. Case studies

Although the finishing of classic woven fabrics according to the continuous process still offers hugepotential for savings in terms of water and energy consumption (some of these options have alreadybeen presented in this article), this has not been treated like a case study in the following. We havecarefully chosen examples which would introduce new methods and processes to interested readers.

Replacement of the exhaustion dyeing process with continuous processes

Despite the massive efforts of machine designers to reduce the liquor ratio, the finishing of knitwear byexhaust dyeing in jet dyeing machines still requires large amounts of water and therefore also largeamounts of energy. By contrast, in addition to quality benefits the continuous open width finishing pro-cess also offers savings particularly in terms of water and energy. In continuous mode, CO2 emissionscan be reduced by nearly 2/3 in comparison to exhaust dyeing processes (liquor ratio of 1:7). The

TRIKOFLEX bleaching and washing plants offered by Benninger and the Benninger Kusters DyePad areperfectly suited for this type of application.

Fig. 5 : EXTRACTA, liquor separation between washing chambers

means of rollers whichare pressed on pneu-matically (Fig. 5). Inaddition to huge watersavings, a low waterconsumption has avery positive effect onthe energy balance.The

amount of energy re-quired to heat up wash-ing water accounts foraround 30% on wovenfabrics and around 40%on knitwear. Reasonenough to use highlyefficient washing sys-tems and - atthe sametime - reduce CO2emissions.

The new Benninger

washing box is noweven more efficient interms of the resources


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The advantages of dyeing terry towelling using thecontinuous method follow the same patterns asknitwear. Here again, the changeover to the newtechnology has been initiated all around the world.

Large-scale international manufacturers of terrytow-elling have already invested in Benninger plants

and are now profiting not only from the low con-sumption figures, but can also report with pride thatCO2 emissions have been reduced by more than50%.

Zero-discharge textile operations

The Kyoto Protocol sets out binding targets andtime frames for emissions of greenhouse gases.The textile industry can also do its bit. Detailed andaccurate analysis of the consumers is followed byoptimisation of water and energy consumption.The

continuous dyeing and finishing processes for tex-tiles will help here, and it will be necessary to re-place exhaust dyeing processes.

Not only does Benninger have the necessary ex-pertise to calculate carbon and water footprints fordifferent finishing techniques and processes, but italso offers machines which are particularly efficientin their use of water and energy. Oneparticular high-light is the recycling of water and energy fromBenninger plants, with the aid of which it is nowpossible to refine textile systems to the stage wherethe discharge of waste water is reduced to zero.

Fig. 7 : Carbon Emission of conventional andcontinuous finishing of knitwear

For further information please contact :

Jurgen Strohle CTOBenninger AG 9240 Uzwil, SwitzerlandT +41 71 955 86 03 F +41 71 955 86 91

[email protected]

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NEW CLOTH MARKET : Discover the Carbon Footprint EXECUTIVE PAGES from the OCTOBER 2011 ISSUE

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