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CAFFE PASCUCCI . Espresso School2

specialisti dell’espresso

3Espresso School . CAFFE PASCUCCI

This manual is a collection of useful information for thosepeople who want to enter a profession in the coffee industry.

The information contained in this manual is of no use if it isnot supported by the professional skills, training and creati-vity of the user.

The operator must continue to present a positive image tocustomers at all times so as to make them feel at ease whenmaking their purchase.

Drinking Italian espresso coffee is a custom that is sprea-ding throughout the world. Today, our methods of transfor-mation from the bean to the cup are trending in all the bestbars.

It’s true that if the rest of the world's coffee is fashionable,in Italy it is unfairly underrated. The espresso needs manyof the little touches that have made it great: from carefulextraction to creative r renewal when it comes to service.

It is our job to communicate our knowledge and inspire thebarista when it comes to the culture of coffee, of coffee-based drinks, espresso and espresso derivatives

1. The history of coffee pag. 4

2. Geographical location pag. 5

2.1 Pascucci and its pag. 6

commitment to organicgrowing and fair trade

3. The Plant and pag. 8

chemical structure

4. Cultivation and initial pag.10

processing stages

5. Classification, tasting pag.11

and evaluation

6. Loading, shipment and pag.12

arrival in Italy

7. Acceptance, roasting and pag.13

blending characteristics

8. Technology is worthless pag.18

without experience

9. Distribution pag.18

10. Extraction systems pag.20

and "espresso" coffee

11. Some secrets for a good pag.22

cup of coffee

12. Coffee and health pag.26

13. The milk, production, pag.27

structure and Cappuccino



1 - The history of coffee

Many legends are connected to the discoveryof coffee; the most widely told and also themost reliable, tells the story of how Ethiopianshepherds noticed their goats became more rest-less after eating the berries of a certain bush.The shepherds brought these strange fruits tothe Muslim monks of the Sheodet convent. Themonks, after many experiments, began to roastthe seeds of the fruit to make a drink for theirnights of prayer.The coffee certainly found a space in the Mus-lim world as an alternative to wine and alco-holic beverages.The first valid scientific descriptions, whichappeared back in 1582, were written by the I-talian botanist, Prospero Alpino. He black drinkbegan to be more widely drunk in the early 1600s.It was in Venice, the capital of world trade atthe time, that this new product began to be soldin pharmacies: small quantities, arriving on ships,leading to the opening of over 200 stores! Thehistoric Caffè Florian in St. Mark’s Square datesback to 1720.Coffee arrived in Vienna in 1683, with the in-vasion of the Turks, who, once defeated left500 bags of coffee abandoned in the camp. A Polenamed Kolschitzky, for the honours of war, re-ceived the 500 bags as a reward. Kolschitzky,who knew the Turkish way to drink coffee,worked to create a filter for the residues andsweetened the coffee with honey. Being veryclever, he had a baker named Wendler createa type of crescent-shaped cake (kipfel) and healso had another baker (Krapf) create a roundcake (which later became the doughnut orKrapfen).With Kolschitzky the coffee shops were a greatsuccess, and from here they spread all over north-ern Europe, in spite of the obstructionism of

the governments that were suspicious of the drinkthat awakened consciousness and enlightenmentin those places where revolutionary thinkerswould gather. It was not by chance that in Francethe ‘café’ was a meeting and working place forthe great writers of the era: Diderot, Voltaire,and Balzac are those who boasted of drinkingmany cups of that precious, strange drink.The first ‘roaster’ in Italy appeared in the endof 1800. Until that moment, coffee was purchasedgreen and roasted in private houses. Since then,roasters have progressively removed this bur-den in families, professionally creating blends formore consistent products that are calibrated forthe price.At the beginning of the 20th century, the longevolution of Italian coffee roasting was brave-ly joined by a dealer from a small remote vil-lage of the Apennines, Antonio Pascucci, headof a family and a company that will write animportant chapter in this history.Those were difficult times_ the ‘Montefeltro’region was a long way from the richness andthe industrial revolutions started in the cities,but coffee trading, either raw or roasted in pi-oneering tin pots, supported the optimism ofAntonio Pascucci, ideas that passed to his sonMario with a good dose of optimism and in-novation in processing and marketing of thedrink.With Mario the food company grew, he was

the first in the area to buya motor vehicle and the firstto create a permanent com-mercial network reaching asfar as the large cities of thenorth. Coffee played a lead-ing role in this stage that on-

ly the events of the Second World War broughtto a halt. It was immediately afterwards thatAlberto took over the family business.


Alberto had to reorganize and re-launch the com-pany that grew and consolidated year after year.Until the day when the big decision was final-ly made during the 1970's and 1980's.In Italy, coffee was still mainly drunk at home,while "espresso" was a low-cost and rather rudi-mentary tradition. Alberto’s intuition and de-termination, however, was to base the compa-ny on excellence through high quality, delica-cy and research into increasingly prized aro-mas, long before the styles of today. It was acourageous decision that was to prove highly suc-cessful over time.

2 - Geographical location

As already mentioned, the homelandof coffee was Ethiopia; from here, it was trans-ferred to the Arabian peninsula and Yemen.Coffee plants were taken to the Americas af-ter 1720.The coffee plant requires plentiful rainfall anda very warm climate (never below 20°C). Thisis why it can only be successfully grown betweenthe Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn.

The ideal environment for the Arabica plant isat an altitude of between 1300 and 1900 me-tres, while the Robusta plant grows best in hill-side plantations (2/300 metres).

The main production areas today are South andCentral America (Mexico, Antilles, Brazil, Cos-ta Rica, Panama, Puerto Rico, Venezuela, Pe-ru, San Salvador, etc.) Western and Eastern Africa(Ivory Coast, Uganda, Cameroon, Madagascar,Kenya, Tanzania), India, Indonesia and Viet-nam.Decades of tradition hallmarked by scrupu-lous decisions, and continual and constant as-sessment, have helped Pascucci Coffee to se-lect certain geographical reference areas whereit purchases the coffee necessary for its prod-ucts. Costa Rica, Haiti, Brazil, Columbia andIndia are among the 18 countries where Pas-cucci Coffee operates. Yet the company is al-ways ready to analyse new samples and even-tually change plantations if product assessmentsshow there is other coffee more worthy ofjoining our team!



2.1 - Pascucci and its

commitment to organic growing

and fair trade

To date. ‘Torrefazione Pascucci’ selects over18 types of green coffee from all over theworld, from national and international tradersand directly on plantations, with a particularattention to the specialty organically growncoffee that is for fair trade sale.The project was born in 2007 when the Con-golese agronomist Diane moved to Haiti for aperiod, on behalf of Pascucci, in search of fam-ilies of growers to join into a new growingproject.

Coffee is the most drunk beverage in the worldafter water, with 824 billion cups spread in thefollowing type of consumption:

50% Soluble30% Filter Coffee10% Turkish, French Press or Moka10% Espresso

The market for this drink is complex and delicate,as are the dozens of ‘actors’ that revolve aroundit. ‘Actors and markets that often increase theprices of the final product, often penalizing thosewho are at the source of this 'carousel'. Let’sanalyze the supply chain in this diagram:

This chain, called CGVC (Coffee Global Val-ue Chain), ends in a division that needs to beobserved carefully, of the 90 cents (average I-talian price) of a cup of espresso:

1.5% Farmer4% Raw coffee seller15% Roaster80% Bar/Coffee Shop

The most worrying fact is undoubtedly the first.

The opening of customs boarders and free tradeamong many coffee producing countries and con-sumers has, however, allowed the developmentof a type of trade that helps farmers, the stake-

Farmer Curing Plant Huller Cooperative

Roaster

Dealer Bar/Coffee Shop

Raw coffeeseller Broker

Trader International Market

Broker


holders at the beginning of the chain.Back to our Haitian adventure, after analysing thecoffee market, after one year of hard work, ‘Tor-refazione Pascucci’ was able to conclude tradeagreements directly with Cocano Cooperative,that today produces its high quality coffee ex-clusively for the Monte Cerignone factory, by-passing all the other stakeholders in the chain.This allows the cooperative to receive a betterprice per sack and the ‘Torrefazione’ is able tosave on costs. With the positive price differ-ence for plantation growers, it has been possi-ble to develop construction projects for schoolsand new homes, expansion of farm land, andimprovement of production quality. This meansemployment of life quality on plantation for ourfarmers and workers. This is what “Fair Trade”means to Pascucci, which has created its spe-cial brand for its Pascucci Fair trade products:Jute Bio.If we are talking about coffee and coffee cul-ture, we are talking about a natural and rawmaterial that could not grow and ripen in ex-

cessively polluted environments. Pascucci is com-mitted and wants every barista to do the same,to encourage customers to consume natural prod-ucts grown without the use of chemical pesticidesand manmade fertilizers. These are organic prod-ucts, grown that way by the Cocano Coopera-tive and favoured by Pascucci. Of the 18 typesof coffee selected from all over the world, mosthave the organic certification.Not only that but to ensure the future qualityof the product in Haiti, in 2009 15000 coffee treeswere planted and in three years, these will pro-duce their first fruits. These trees use photosyn-thesis to take the carbon dioxide from the airand convert it into oxygen. In this way, Pas-cucci has reduced its carbon footprint: an im-portant project for a more 'breathable’ future.All of the people involved in ‘’Caffè Pascuc-ci,’’ from production, to roasters, sales agents,commercial department, baristas, and naturally,our customers, are all a part of this project andwe are proud of it!



3 - The Plant and

chemical structure

In actual fact, coffee is a shrub belonging tothe Rubiaceae family, Coffea genus, which in-cludes many species - but only two are gener-ally of interest to the coffee production world:Arabica and Robusta (other species include Liber-ica and Excelsa). The shrub may grow morethan 10 metres in height (Robusta) but is gen-erally pruned to no more than 3 metres; it bearsfruits once a year and is harvested every 7/8

tracted by heat or sublimation, containing me-dicinal substances or toxic substances) natural-ly present in plants: Chocolate, Tea, Coffee, Mate.

It has a stimulant action on the central nervoussystem, acting on the synapses. It has a milddiuretic action, creates a slight vasodilatationand can irritate the mucosa in the stomach. Thepopularity of beverages containing this alkaloidmakes it the most widely consumed psycho-ac-tive substance in the world.It 'important to recognize that caffeine does not

months depending on cultivation conditions.Generally, Robusta is more able to withstandthe diseases typical of the plant and has a s-lightly higher yield per plant than Arabica (upto 2 kg of beans).

The elements contained in coffee include min-eral substances (potassium, calcium, magne-sium…) in constant quantities; caffeine (alkaloid)found in higher percentages in Robusta beans(more than double) compared with Arabica beans(since it is a very soluble substance, also inhigher percentages when coffee is extracted fora longer time, in "long" espresso coffee and Amer-ican-style coffee.Caffeine is an alkaloid or TRIMETILXANTI-NA (nitrogenous organic matter that can be ex-

replace sleep, but increases the level of atten-tion in the circadian rhythm, and its prolongeduse leads to tolerance, cancelling out the nega-tive effects but also the positive ones! It is com-pletely absorbed in the stomach and at the be-ginning of intestines in the first 45 minutes af-ter consumption and converted by liver enzymesinto three parts:

Paraxanthine: carries a higher concentrationof fatty acids in the blood

Theobromine: dilates blood vessels, the alka-loid of the cocoa

Theophylline: relaxes the mucus membranesof the bronchi, the main active in-gredient of drugs for the treatmentof asthma.

coffee plant coffee flowers unripe fruit ripe fruit


Lipids are another important element, mainlybecause they retain aromas and allow roasted cof-fee to release the perfumes we know so well.The Arabica species has 25% more lipids than theRobusta species.

Coffea Arabica60% total world production

Grown from 800 to 2200 metres above sealevel

Needs temperatures from 15 to 30°C

Blooms every 3/5 months, according to area

Harvested every 4/6 months

From 0.8% to 1.7% caffeine

18% essential oils

Grain elongated and flattened at the sides

Central cut not regular

Organoleptic: slightly astringent, bitter, sour,medium body, creamy texture and persistent-mesh, round and moderately persistentflavour.

Main characteristics: chocolate, almond,peanut, fruit pulp, citrus fruits, cereals, breadcrust (if overly fresh)

Coffea Canephora (robusta)40% total world production

Grown from 0 to 800 metres above sealevel

From 1.8% to 2.8% caffeine

8/9% essential oils

Bean flat shape with upper and lower ends,more rounded

Regular shape

Organoleptic: astringent, bitter envelopingand persistent, with little acidity, full body,creamy coarse, thick and not too persistent.The aroma is full and persistent, sometimesaggressive, not sweet.

Main characteristics: herbaceous (if fresh),earthy, woody, spicy, pure cocoa, walnut,gall, straw



4 - Cultivation and initial

processing stages

The ripe fruit resembles a red-brown cherry,with an outer skin, a layer of pulp and a parch-ment-like film containing the seeds - two grainsof coffee. Harvesting can be done by hand(more expensive and slower) or mechanical-ly by stripping all the berries from the branch-es without selection, a quicker process butdetrimental to precision and quality.

After initial cleaning, the coffee beans mustbe separated from the berry by means of oneof the two systems currently used:

▪ dry. This method involves first spreadingthe coffee over large drying areas in the sun andthen processing it in boiler dryers in order todefinitively eliminate the water content. Last-ly, the beans are mechanically separated fromthe dry "cherry". This system produces so-called natural coffees

▪ washed. With this system, the berries are firstsplit and then placed in fermentation tankswhere the pulp decomposes; simple washingthen separates the grains from the rest. Theymust then be immediately dried (in the sunor artificially). This process gives rise to cof-fee without the parchment - so-called washedcoffee.

▪ semi-washed. This is the most advancedprocedure that is rapidly gaining a footholdin Brazil, where the' excessive rainfall dur-ing the harvest period may compromise the'drying of dry processed coffee.The freshly harvested fruits are put into a ma-chine that separates the green and red fruitsfrom the black ones (the Boja) with water.The more mature red fruit passes through acylinder that has them out already shrunken

to go directly to 'drying process, while the greenones are treated with the natural system, but,being now covered by only a slight mucilageand parchment, only takes 3 days to dry againstthe 10/15 of the natural system. There is no pro-duction of acetic acid but the product is ho-mogeneous, without fermented beans and atouch more acidity than naturally dried beans.

▪ decaffeinated coffee. Decaffeinated coffeeinvolves a special process that may even be per-formed in importer countries. During this op-eration, the coffee is vaporized to swell thebeans and make the caffeine extraction processeasier; solvents are then used to dissolve thecaffeine, while a third stage recovers and e-liminates the solvent; lastly, the decaffeinat-ed coffee is dried. The solvents used can be:water (enjoys an excellent "image" but yieldis far from perfect since it also tends to re-move many other desirable substances as wellas caffeine), ethyl acetate (a natural product,found in fruit, but it has the drawback of be-ing explosive and also leaves its own odoursin the product), carbon dioxide (requires veryexpensive technology) and dichloromethane(currently the most used, thanks to its lowcost and constantly good results; it acts di-rectly on the caffeine and is volatile at just38°C).


5 - Classification, tasting

and evaluation

Every coffee has its own identity that can berecognized through various parameters, such as:Origin, which includes the production area, portof embarkation and the producer.The proportion of Defects (unripe, spoilt or bro-ken beans, foreign bodies, etc.) present in a 300g sample varies from a minimum score of 1 (with-out defects) to a maximum of 8.

Tasting involves two different approaches:

- by infusion, after slight roasting (very light), theroughly ground coffee is added to boiling wa-ter for a few minutes and the resulting drink (with-out adding sweeteners) is then assessed. Thisis a widespread system, although it does notprovide information about body and only per-mits approximate secondary taste and aroma in-dications

Grain-size is also important. This is expressedin Crivelli and is generally measured from 13to 20 c. Other characteristics are the Year ofthe harvest (old, new, current…), Colour;Species; the type of Processing (natural orwashed); the Shape of the bean (flat, bourbon(rounded and convex), caracolyte (round and s-mall) and maragogype (very large).The combination of these features makes up the"identity card" of the product at its origin andthe general characteristics that enable buyers toidentify the product most suited to their require-ments. However, including a new coffee in aperfectly balanced blend requires a further testto be performed: tasting.

- "espresso", prepared in the classic Italianstyle. The drink is tasted with or without sweet-ening, in a small cup. This method providesclear indications about the body of the productand, since it is a "concentrate" of all second-ary taste and aroma features, it ensures a morecomplete tasting result.

Assessment by means of tasting must consider thefact that sensorial qualities are involved.As these are often subjective, assessments andstandards are not always uniform. However, thereare certain common concepts that can be sum-marized as follows.After preparation, the first parameters to be



assessed are Colour (this provides indicationsabout roasting and extraction), Aroma (with pos-itive characteristics such as chocolate, roast-ing, flowers,aromatic fruit, etc. and any negative featuressuch as straw, grass, smoke, cork, rancid, jute,stagnant water etc.), Uniform Appearance andCreaminess.The drink can now be tasted and analysis in-volves three stages: First Impressions indicateswhether the drink is pleasant, together withthe intensity of taste and body. The secondstage analyses taste sensations on the tongue andpalate: bitter, sweet or acid, and consistency,such as earthy, astringent or soft. The thirdand final stage analyses aftertaste and the per-ception of all aromas and any defects in whatis the most important and longest stage.It must be emphasized that Arabica coffee usu-ally has more marked characteristics in termsof positive aromas and taste, while Robustahas characteristics such as strong body, inten-

sity and persistent taste, although there mayalso be less pleasing variants.

At this stage, all the information needed to as-sess whether the coffee is suitable for joining the“roasting team” is availableThe entire procedure is undoubtedly very de-manding and involves considerable responsi-bilities. It must be repeated frequently to en-sure that only the best coffee is selected.In this case, the human element is fundamen-tal.

Only tasters with considerable experience and– above all, passion for this job are able tograsp the imperceptible differences that mayenhance a fine espresso coffee.Only those who can grasp the soul of a cof-fee bean, behind mere facts and figures, thecolours and types sent to roasting, can proud-ly claim to work with the utmost skill.These sensorial analysis, selection and correc-tion operations at Pascucci are personally co-ordinated by Alberto and Mario Pascucci.

6 - Loading, shipment and

arrival in Italy

These are the lesser-known stages in the processfrom the plantation to the coffee cup but theyare nevertheless very important. The harvestedcoffee is packed in sacks. Depending on theirorigin, there are differences in the materials andthe size of the packaging used. The most com-mon sacks are made from jute and contain 60kg of product (they may also be in sisal, plas-tic, wood barrels, etc.). The packed coffee isloaded into containers in the ports of origin (al-ways documented) andshipped on large freighters, increasingly large


numbers of which are especially designed to car-ry coffee.The coffee may even travel for several weeksbefore arriving at the ports of destination that,in Italy, are mainly Trieste, Genoa and GioiaTauro in that order.On arrival at destination, the coffee is unloadedand goes through customs. The most importantaspect, however, concerns the scrupulous con-trol and analysis performed by specialist per-sonnel and institutes to certify the quality gradeof the coffee, that the product delivered match-es the declared freight documents and that healthand hygiene requirements have been observed.Since coffee is such a popular and important prod-uct, these operations provide assurances for boththe buyer and the consumer.Such controls are also necessary to ensure trans-parency in the unroasted coffee trade - a busi-ness that involves various stages and interme-diaries.

The unroasted coffee trade value chain begins withthe producer, followed by the exporter (that inmany producing countries is the State), the bro-ker (managing contacts between exporters and im-porters all over the world), the importer (alsoknown as the "raw coffee dealer") and - lastly- the final buyer (who roasts the coffee).

It must be pointed out that, despite involvingall these figures, the entire coffee trade chainhas minimal impact on sales prices: since cof-fee is a raw material of worldwide importance,prices are always negotiated and linked withdealings on commodity exchanges where assess-ments reflect various kinds of influences (suchas growth forecasts for the economy and weath-er phenomena in production areas). The com-modity exchanges which fix international pricesare London for Robusta coffee and New Yorkfor Arabica coffee.

Worldwide coffee Kilos perconsumption head per year

Luxembourg 16,65

Finland 12,01

Norway 9,85

Denmark 8,75

Holland 8,38

Sweden 8,19

Switzerland 7,93

Canada 6,45

Belgium 6,33

Germany 6,26

Italy 5,97

Slovenia 5,85

France 5,47

Austria 4,94

Ciprus 4,89

Estonia 4,53

Spain 4,33

Portugal 4,28

Usa 4,13

ICO, Coffe Market Report 2008

7 - Acceptance, roasting

and blending characteristics

Once coffee has been purchased, it must be roast-ed and stored. First of all, the product under-goes further analysis to check conformity withrequired characteristics and to provide the "roast-er" with all the information necessary for thefollowing and decisive "roasting" stage. In themeantime, the batch of unprocessed coffee is s-tocked in suitable warehouses offering good aircirculation and minimal temperature variationsin order to prevent the formation of mould andthe possibility that the characteristics of a natu-ral "living" product such as coffee may be al-tered through exposure to sources of extraneous



odours, gas, etc. Humidity, that is, the amountof water contained in the coffee beans, plays animportant role. If humidity is too high, deteri-oration and mould may easily occur with con-sequently difficult storage and complicated up-keep of quality standards over time; if it is too low,the beans become fragile.At this stage, the coffee is ready to be roasted.This process involves complete, very delicate con-version and a huge number of variants.Here we are at our own 'baptism of fire'. Have youever wondered why the seed of a fruit must becooked before being consumed?In the case of our grain simply to enhance itsaromatic properties.It passes from 250 aromatic components of greenbeans to 800 after roasting, and there's more ...with the 'espresso’ method, they're going to dou-ble again, if we are baristas, with a capital ‘B’.During roasting, the inside of the bean reaches20 sulphured atmospheres, like the insides of avolcano. Toasting by hand with direct flame, thedifference d 'error does not go beyond 3 sec-onds ... this man is now flanked by the ma-chines, for this task that many can do .... Butnot all!Before we look at roasting machines, there arethree key points for perfect roasting':

▪ A wise application ofheat▪ A final point of roast-ing adjusted for the d-ifferent quality roast-ed▪ A quick and appropri-ate method of coolingThere are two types ofmachinery used for the'roasting' of greencoffee:

▪ A rotating drum,used for the coffee intended for espresso,Turkish or instant coffee. Cooking time 12to 24 minutes roasting Medium Dark, Darkand Very Dark.

▪ • A fluid or fluidized bed, which is usedfor coffee consumption of Filter Coffee.Shorter cooking times from 6 to 8 minutes,browning Light City Roast, City Roast, FullCity Roast.

We analyze the first best, as we are concerneddirectly. In Italy all companies adopt this typeof roaster, consisting of a rotating drum fittedwith an internal system of paddle which ensureshomogeneous mixing and heat exposure of allthe coffee beans.Heat is all 'inside of a combustion chamber heat-ed by a burner with a fuel gas.


There are two ways to get heat to the green cof-fee to 'inside of these drums

By conduction: heat is transferred to grain con-tacting metal walls of the cylinder, heated byan underlying form of heat. This method, how-ever does not give a perfect control system ofroasting. The problem of scorching often oc-curs, which burns the coffee bean, taking off s-mall strips. The roasting is not homogeneousand the grain has two different cooking levels fromoutside to inside.Modern and still in use, is the hybrid’ system.The furnace works with gas and is placed un-der the rotating cylinder, but separated from itby refractory material. Thedrum is perforated in the rear,and the beans are roasted notjust by contact with the wallsbut also by hot air flow.

The convection or induc-tion, method used today byall major companies. Thermalenergy is directed into thedrum in the form of hot air.The heat is produced in a sep-arate combustion chamber.Roasting is therefore not by 'contact' with thecylinder. This system avoids the phenomenonof scorching and ensures homogeneous and u-niform roasting. These machines are very flexi-ble; you can control the volume of hot air, thedrum rotation speed, and the power of the burn-er, then convey the temperature gradually and'gently'.The cooking temperature varies, depending onyour choice, from 190 to 220 degrees Celsiusin times ranging from 8 to 20 minutes.

The system of fluid bed or turbo roasters is

a continuous cycle, roasting larger quantities ofcoffee in less time, which saves labour and fu-el.The cooking process is by hot air convection:the mass of beans floats above the hot air, likein a popcorn machine. This method is not suit-able for roasting blends with high aromatic qual-ity: the sheer volume of hot air and very shortroasting time lead to an increase in volume ofthe grain, resulting in loss of aroma. For thisreason, the system mentioned is used in coun-tries where roasting for light extraction is used,such as for filter coffee in the United States andnorthern Europe.

The bean comes out of the roasting machine ata temperature ranging from 190 to 220 °C, soit is necessary to initiate a rapid cooling processthat prevents it from continuing to cook by au-to-combustion.

There are two cooling methods:

• Forced fresh air: cooling via a large amountof cold air fed into the cylinder first thenin a cooling tank. This method should takethe roasted coffee to room temperature ina maximum of ¾ minute to prevent loss ofaroma. There are great advantages to this sys-



tem, with the sole problem being a negli-gible weight loss.

• Water: water is sprayed into the roastingcylinder just before it is discharged into thecooling tank. This causes the formation ofwater vapour which drastically reduces thetemperature. This delicate operation mustbe carried out as soon as possible and us-ing a quantity of water spray of no morethan 10% of the total weight of the coffee.It restores the weight lost through roastingand there is a lower risk that the beans willcontinue to cook. Degassing times to dis-charge CO2 are shortened but conversely,if the transaction is not precise and care-fully controlled, the result is excessive lossof flavour, volatile compounds and essen-tial oils which, moreover, dirty the drumand the cooling tank leading to greater main-tenance requirements.

Artisan roasters, small and medium-sized enter-prises, use air cooling. Larger roasters use bothsystems to cool consecutively larger quantitiesof coffee as soon as possible.

During the 15-20 minute roasting time, the beansundergo important modifications that can besummarized as follows:• the residual film around the beans is dried

and removed by suction,• water content is reduced from 10% to 1%;• sugars are also reduced from 10% to 2%.

They are converted into caramel and give cof-fee its typical colour and bitter-sweet flavour,depending on the degree of roasting (car-bonizing of cellulose is also involved inthis context);

• fats and proteins are somewhat reduced andconverted into particular features that char-

acterise the aroma of the coffee;• acids and volatile substances generally dis-

appear and dissolve, especially at higherroasting temperatures;

• the weight of the coffee bean drops to 20%while its mass increases by up to 60%;

• the caffeine content, that at 170° should bevolatile, actually drops as temperatures in-crease, albeit to a limited extent since atsuch temperatures the coffee bean becomesmore or less impermeable.

All these modifications clearly highlight the im-portance and care that this operation requiresand its impact on the final outcome. By way ofexample: roasting at higher temperatures exaltsfeatures such as bitterness, while more delicateroasting enhances features such as fruit, acidi-ty, "grass", etc.

Blending is a separate issue - the art of mixingcoffees of different origins and characteristicsin a complete final product. This is especiallya characteristic of traditional Italian "espresso"coffee.Blends may involve two, ten and even moretypes of different coffee. This depends on the stylerequired for the coffee served. Blending sever-al coffee varieties does not necessarily mean im-proving quality. Quality mainly depends on thetypes of coffee used and their balance and har-mony.Blending in any case is based on an importantprinciple: optimize all positive features and min-imize defects by exploiting the most importantproperties of both Robusta and Arabica coffee. Theobjective for an "espresso" blend is to combinethe strength, body and cream of Robusta withthe perfumes, delicate flavour and aroma of Ara-bica. The more this delicate equilibrium is basedon higher proportions of Arabica (which equal-ly reduces caffeine content), thus improving aro-


ma, the higher the quality of the blend.Today, blending various coffees involves two e-qually valid approaches. The first theory sug-gests that blending all or at least an initial se-lection of the coffee beans must take place dur-ing roasting,so that in this already important stage they caninteract and merge – something that undoubted-ly happens. The other approach suggests thatcoffee beans should be roasted separately and thenblended afterwards, since simultaneously roastingseveral products would risk processing certainbeans optimally but not those with different char-acteristics, thereby not achieving ideal results.In any case, all blends must be left to "rest" forseveral days so that all the various coffees usedcan “breathe” together and share their qualities.What may initially seem to be a competitivedisadvantage has actually always been one ofthe strong points of the Torrefazione Pascuccicompany: its location in Montecerignone, Mon-tefeltro (PU).It is by no means easy for a company to be so

far from major production areas. It is by nomeans easy to be so far from the most impor-tant communication routes. It is by no meanseasy since each everyday routine involves extradrawbacks, effort and costs.However, this is hugely compensated by twoother specific advantages.1 - The microclimate of Montecerignone, set inthe valley of the River Conca at an altitude of600 metres, ensures low and constant humidityall year round so that coffee processing takes placein ideal conditions all year round. The purity ofthe hillside, country air means that coffee be-ing roasted or stored is exclusively exposed tothe natural aromas of our countryside and its fruits.The climate and mineral composition of the soilin Montecerignone, where coffee ripening and pro-cessing take place, supremely enhance productquality. As the raw coffee ripens, this climate helpssweeten it and improve its natural taste charac-teristics. After roasting, very low spontaneoushumidity levels in the air mean that the beansare stable and retain all their aroma.



8 - Technology is worthless

without experience

One probe may measure the temperature of thecoffee during a roasting stage, another may mea-sure its temperature at the end of this process. The-se probes are pointless unless they are used byexperts. Probes can measure what they are askedto measure but they can never understand whenit is exactly the right time to terminate the roa-sting process.As the coffee beans roll around inside the hotroasting drum, they begin to "crackle" slightlyat just the right moment - and only a coffee ex-pert is able to perceive this "language". Every cof-fee roaster characterizes its products by the degreeof roasting and the type of blend. Correct blen-ding of different coffees is the outcome of ye-ars of experimentation.

9 - Distribution

Essentially, there are three kinds of coffee con-sumer and relative distribution channels

● home consumption, that generally prepares cof-fee in "moka" stove top coffee pots and familyespresso coffee machines. Products include clas-sic vacuum-packed ground coffee (250 g) for "mo-ka" coffee pots and 1 kg packs of roasted be-

ans for "espresso" coffee.Despite lower demand,cans and medium-sizedpacks (500 g) are alsoavailable. There is a wi-de offer and every com-pany proposes variousquality levels often iden-tified by different co-lours: red for lower qua-lity, gold for medium-

2 - the people-friendly dimension of a small town;where lifestyle and human relationships are dic-tated by a tradition of genuineness, familiarity andharmony between people and the land. The com-pany is the offshoot and expression of its localcommunity, so that positive, human values are partof the company's approach to its business relation-ships with clients, staff and suppliers.These are the real reasons that have encouragePascucci to undertake a new and demandingchallenge once again in Montecerignone: a newproduction site capable of sustaining new andgrowing requirements. New head offices withadvanced technology that nevertheless keeps faithwith our roots, background and people-friendlydimension.

high quality and black for 100% Arabica. Intruth, the type of consumption (simple equipment)and the format (ground) enable companies tosupply this channel with blends of inferior qua-lity compared with coffee bars and this is pro-portionally reflected in much lower prices. Thischannel also includes soluble products and blendswith surrogates, albeit to a minimal extent. Lar-ge-scale distribution is the dominant outlet for thistype of sale, that over time has significantly re-dimensioned the traditional retail market (local fo-od stores)

● catering (bars, restaurants) - the most highlyqualified sector in the coffee consumption worldwhich, consequently, demands higher qualityproducts. Coffee is supplied in bags of 1 or 3kg (not vacuum-packed - although at times aso-called vacuum-pack valve is included). Pri-ces are aligned to the quality of the blends whichis generally higher than in other channels. Thissector demands a very close relationship betwe-en producers and catering outlets that must worktogether day after day to convince consumers. Thisis why the company also offers a consulting ser-vice: from product promotion to equipment ve-rification and professional training. This meansthat distribution should be as direct as possibleand to this end, specialist sales agents are in-volved, as well as sales promotions.

● vending channel - this sector is experiencingcontinual expansion thanks to the versatility of thevending machines used and the ease with whichautomatic distribution reaches otherwise distantconsumers. However, low-quality coffee is ge-nerally used since the only feature required bysuch automatic preparation is compact creamand easy extraction. The major innovation inthis sector is the new market for pod machines.Even easier to manage, pod machines are pene-


trating both markets, such as workplaces andsocial centres, as well as families: the impor-tant innovation of this product is that it is mo-re similar to bar coffee than vending machinedrinks.Pascucci offers its own range of products for allsales outlets with precise and original positio-ning. Historical emphasis on excellent qualitycould by no means give way to the easy logicof mere numbers. The guideline for all produc-tion focuses on the "horeca" channel and high qua-lity blends. This means that the same three blends- Golden Sack, Mild and Classic - used in the mostimportant coffee bars are also available for mo-ka coffee pots or "espresso" machines in cansor vacuum-packs. Such a high-quality productis unlikely to be found in large-scale distribu-tion outlets but only through authorized Pascuc-ci retailers and bars.The same approach has been used for the cof-fee pod market. Distribution of this product isenjoying excellent growth - and again offers thesame three blends as for bars.Anyone drinking Pascucci products - at bars andrestaurants, at home or in the office - is assu-red of the same excellent coffee in all our ran-ges.



10 - Extraction systems and

"espresso" coffee

There are different ways of drinking coffee andthis variety indicates the versatility of this pro-duct and how it has been enjoyed in differentperiods.

• The most simple preparation system is in-fusion: a dose of ground coffee is added toboiling water in a jug. Infusion takes about3-5 minutes and the coffee is then filteredthrough a strainer.

• Turkish-style: a special pot called "ibrik"is used to boil the water and then add ve-ry fine-ground coffee and sugar. This isthen left to boil again. This method produ-ces very particular coffee: strong, denseand (despite the sugar) rather bitter.

• Neapolitan: the special coffee pot has a re-movable filter that is filled with finely groundand highly roasted coffee; the base is fil-led with water and left to boil, with the toppart (with a pouring beak) tightly closed. On-ce the water boils, the pot is turned upsi-de down so that it can flow into the other sec-tion, filtering through the coffee.

• Moka: a very popular system comprisinga stove top coffee pot in three sections: a boi-ler to boil the water, a filter with a doseof about 6 g of fairly well ground coffeeand a third section to collect the drink. Thespecial feature is that the water has no esca-pe route other than the steam pressure thatrises into the second recipient filteringthrough the coffee in about one minute.The drink has a distinct flavour and an in-tense aroma.

• Filter. Perhaps the most common systemin the world. Rough ground coffee is used- from 5/6 g of light roasted in North Ame-rica up to 10 g of medium roasted coffeein France. Boiling water is simply pouredover the coffee placed in special paper orfabric filters and then percolates by gravi-ty into a pot underneath - the resulting cof-fee is delicate and not too strong for fre-quent consumption. This system only ex-ploits about 20% of the coffee componentsin 150/200 ml cups.

• Soluble. Not widely used in Italy but po-pular abroad. Preparation is extremely ea-sy: simply dissolve the product in hot wa-ter using about 2/3 g of coffee for 150/200mlcups. Processing of this kind of coffee in-volves differences such as freeze-dried (bet-ter and more expensive) or spray-dried.

• an Italian tradition becoming increasingly po-pular abroad: "espresso" coffee: specificequipment prepares a very concentrated,fully-flavoured drink with an intense bodyand aroma.

This equipment involves an espresso-coffee ma-chine, a pump, a water softener and a grin-ding-dosing unit. The vital technical elementsfor making good espresso coffee have remai-ned unchanged for decades, despite the refi-nements and ease of use offered by certainelectronic components. These elements inclu-de high-quality materials (copper, brass, ste-el) in a series of fundamental components suchas the boiler, the heat exchanger, solenoids,infusion units and filter-holders, the pressureswitch used to set boiler pressure and the pres-sure gauge indicating pump and boiler pres-sure.


The history of espresso machine began in 1901,when an engineer from Milan, Luigi Bezzera,patented the first monumental espresso machi-ne, the basis for today’s machines, which su-blimate the soluble part of the roasted grain in-to a strong, dark hot drink and the inner partinto a short-lasting golden disc, called 'cream'.Desiderio Pavoni purchased the patent in 1906,starting to building in his garage, now a com-pany, one machine per day. It was the super-elegant ‘column’ machine with upright boiler,all encased in copper and brass. The coffee wasextracted by steam produced from water in theboiler connected to a gas cylinder. In the for-ties the design was completed by creating 'pi-ston' or 'lever' to allow the total exclusion ofsteam using only hot water powered by a springto a pressure of 14 bar.

The drink it made was revolutionary:thicker and creamier and highly aroma-tic: the mother of the modern espres-so. The famous 'Coffee Cream', fromthe patented design by Achille Gag-gia and Rosetta Scorza (who inheri-ted the patent rights from her Mila-nese engineer). However, war onceagain halted development of this gre-at invention; indeed, in Italy the sta-te imposed high duties on imports ofcoffee, but also on the production of

espresso machines, for which there was high mar-ket demand on the ‘enemy’ markets of Britain,France and the United States.After this, during the greatest period of social andeconomic recovery in our country, came a mo-del to change the way coffee is made, introdu-cing the design standard design still in use to-day. It came from the Faema factory in Milan:an invention by Ernesto Valente, Gaggia engi-neer until 1950, the E-61 and E-61 Legend,This was the first machine with a thermosy-phon circuit with heat exchangers in the boiler,which took water directly from water mainsthrough an electric motor pump set at 9 barpressure. A revolution… and one that is stillongoing!A decade earlier Pavoni, inspired by the famousdesigner Gio Ponti, had put the boiler in a ver-

Collezione Enrico Maltoni (www.espressomadeinitaly.com)



tical position to allow the bartender to interactwith the customer. The machines were placedon the bar, as beautiful decorative icons.

To make coffee, the flow of water is softenedto 2°, pumped at a pressure of 9 bar into the

heat exchangers,where it is heatedto 88/92° and - atthis pressure andtemperature - rea-chesthe infusion units incontact with a doseof 7 g of coffee andthen the cup. Infu-

sion must last 20/25 seconds and deliver thecoffee into a warm cup (but not more than65°C).

Grinding is an important stage. There are twotypes of commercial grinding-dosing units:• flat grinders are the most common and, as

their name suggests, they have flat grin-ding blades rotating at 1400 rpm. They ne-ed to be checked every 300 kg coffee;

• conical grinders with blades rotating at 4/500rpm (much more expensive). They need tobe checked every 600 kg of coffee.

The objective of both systems is to grind cof-fee beans into an even powder, suitable for in-

fusion, which is neither too fine nor too coar-se, bearing in mind the humidity that affectsyield (the distance bet-ween the blades can beset for finer or coarsergrinding as required).The operating tempera-ture of the grinding-do-sing unit must never ex-ceed 40/50° to avoid af-fecting coffee yield. This, essentially, is the dif-ference between flat and conical blade grinding-dosing units: the former rotate more rapidly andrisk overheating more quickly and are thus un-suitable for heavy-duty espresso coffee service.

The "espresso" system produces a very parti-cular drink, with a layer of cream - the foamproduced by the emulsion of particles of air andcoffee oils - a distinct body and an extraordi-narily intense aroma thanks to very efficient ex-traction; the creamy layer itself also preventsall the finer qualities of good quality coffeefrom evaporating.

11 - Some secrets for

a good cup of coffee

The previous section describes the typical waythat water and coffee combine to become Ita-lian "espresso". However, this "process" should


by no means be viewed exclusively in mecha-nical terms - it also requires care and attentionto details to make it “live” and considered spe-cialized. A great many elements must be con-trolled and taken into consideration as regards theentire process to make true and genuine Italianespresso coffee. Traditionally, the secret behindfine espresso coffee can be summed up in 5 ru-les: coffee-making machine, grinding-dosingunit, skill, maintenance and - naturally - a go-od blend. Obviously, these rules involve a gre-at deal of work. Let's try to list some of them,well aware in any case that coffee-making skillslargely depend on direct experience of coffee ma-chines and true passion.

• Coffee packs should be opened even twohours prior to use so that the coffee itselfcan adapt to the surrounding environment.

• The grinding-dosing unit should be thorou-ghly cleaned at regular intervals, since cof-fee releases oils that over time may beco-me rancid and spoil even a high-qualityproduct.

• A dose of coffee should be around 7 g (6.8-7.2) to ensure optimal infusion.

• Avoid overheating the grinding-dosing unit- at over 40/50°C, it may compromise theintegrity of the product.

• The dose of coffee should be firmly pres-sed into the filter with decisive, horizontaland regular pressure so that the infusionwater uses the entire dose within the timelimit.

• If the coffee does not pour "on time", mo-dify the grinding settings (not the compres-sion!). If the coffee pours too slowly (mo-re than 25 seconds, with the risk of remai-

ning in contact with the very hot filter-hol-der too long and thus burning), then it shouldbe more coarsely ground. On the contrary,if the coffee pours too quickly (less than20 seconds with fast and incomplete infu-sion) it should be ground more finely. Ge-nerally speaking, the grinding unit can beset 1 or 2 notches up or down as required.

• The usual cause of such changes is the de-gree of humidity in the air absorbed by thecoffee powder. It is therefore advisable togrind coffee only as required and avoid lea-ving it in contact with the air for too long.It is a good rule to finish previously groundcoffee in the evening so that in the mor-ning and during the day it is always fre-shly ground. Coffee, especially when al-ready ground, is a “live” product that brea-thes!

• Always check blade wear and replace theblades after 400 kg for flat blades and 1000kg for conical blades. The coffee must befinely ground and not crushed by blunt bla-des.

• Always use fresh, decalcified water - hard



water makes heavy, creamless coffee.

• The temperature of the water must be about120°C in the boiler and about 88° at thepouring spout; the pump should ensure apressure of 9 bar; minor variants dependon the type of machine used.

• It is of fundamental importance to keepespresso machines clean. The gaskets, pou-ring spouts (that must ensure free flow ofwater) and filters should be cleaned tho-roughly every day with a special blind fil-ter. Filters and filter-holders must also becleaned, since - like the spouts. they tendto accumulate burnt coffee (and thus spoilgood "espresso"). Deposits of milk on thesteam jets should be frequently removedto prevent them going rancid. The driptray underneath the machine should be clea-ned to avoid blockages caused by depo-sits of coffee grounds. All these rules of cle-anliness must be scrupulously and regu-larly observed, accompanied by frequentchecks of the entire system by specialistpersonnel.

• Always use warm cups; cold cups "block"espresso coffee and spoil its body, whileif they are too hot (over 65°) they over-heat and tend to "burn" it.

• Constantly verify infusion and delivery ti-mes. This short time-scale (20/25 seconds)involves a very delicate process: the boilingwater initially wets, swells and mixes withthe coffee powder, absorbing all its aro-matic properties; it then passes throughthe dose of coffee and is poured into thecup.

If the coffee is properly regulated and flowsin a thin and continual line (the so-called "mou-

Perfect Espresso Features

‘Hazelnut-reddish’ cream, sometimes with akind of ‘tiger stripe’ effect.

Good consistency with 3-4 mm thick, uni-form mesh.

Round body, perfect, perfectly balanced tasteand aroma, very persistent taste.

Why?:Dose around 7.5 - 8 gramsWater temperature 90°CWater pressure at 9 barRight fine grindingPressed at 20 kg25 cc volume in cup25/30 sec. pouring

se tail") with the colour of a "friar's habit"into the cup with concentrated perfumes and aro-mas enclosed in a thick, hazel-coloured cre-am... we can proudly say we have achievedour objective.


"Espresso" coffee is an Italian tradition, style andtaste. For decades, it has been one of the most high-ly appreciated and characteristic Italian productsabroad. This is truer today than ever before.In Italy, espresso coffee is a daily custom, an im-portant moment of pleasure, a ritual - perhapsexcessively so.Every tradition is a link between past and futureand espresso coffee must always keep pace withthe times to ensure its future. It must be kept up-to-date and made important even for generationswith different lifestyles and stimuli from those whocreated and developed the espresso coffee tradition.

Pascucci has always focused clearly on the ob-jective of capitalizing on its traditional espressocoffee, seeking solutions that will keep it "alive"even in the future.It began by developing sweeter blends, ideal forconsumers with more "educated" tastes, includ-ing women and young people, between 1970 and1980.Pascucci was the first company to develop thetypical wide cup, emphasizing extraction, opti-mizing all the aromas of coffee over a larger con-tact surface, unlike the typical pear-shaped cupsthat encouraged a thick cream but also partly dis-

Over-extracted Features

Dark cream with a lighter spot.

Low consistency and thickness, with hole inthe middle.

Hard taste, bitter and astringent, low aroma,lingering taste.

Causes:Ground coffee dose over 7 gramsWater temperature above 92°CWater pressure less than 9 barOverly fine grindingPressed at over 20 kgMore than 30 cc in cupMore than 30 sec. pouring

Under-extracted Features

Beige, very pale cream.

Low cream consistency, with large bubbles.

Cream not very persistent, fading (less than 1 min.)

Little body, watery, with little taste whichdoes not linger and little aroma.

The causes may be:Dose less than 6 gramsWater temperature less than 88°cWater pressure more than 9 barCoarser grindingExcessively light pressingLess than 25 cc in cupLess than 20 sec. pouring

art - improving arterial tone and coronary circu-lation without altering pressure. The lungs alsobenefit from coffee as it improves bronchial di-lation and helps combat asthma. It helps overco-me muscle tiredness and improves the coordinationof movements. It also stimulates vasomotor ner-ves to help and facilitate digestion (so a cup ofcoffee after a meal is always pleasurable and he-althy). Coffee stimulates the production of bilein the liver and the contraction of the gall blad-der.Yet the most important effect of a cup of coffeeis in the brain and nervous system, since it sti-mulates mental faculties, wards off sleepiness,boredom and tiredness – both physical and psycho-logical - and enhances memory capacity, learningand concentration - as well as soothing heada-ches and migraines.

Coffee especially stimulates the most importantof our senses: the zest for life…

A stimulating passionIt may seem excessive to link "passion" with"work" - but how else other than through "pas-sion" could one describe the background of sen-timents that encourage the members of the fami-ly and all the staff at Pascucci to dedicate somuch effort in all company sectors? Our bondwith coffee and our brand stimulates us to dedi-cate even more time and effort to our quest forexcellence. Pascucci has always communicated this"Passion", this enthusiasm, this desire for impro-vement to all in the industry. At Pascucci, we ha-ve learnt that there are two ways of working: thefirst is "well" and the second is "well and pas-sionately". We know that the result of these two ap-proaches is only apparently identical.Encouraging everyone to follow this "philoso-phy" is by no means easy. Fortunately, the hu-man resources at Pascucci are its mainstay.Our "added value" in the coffee field.



guised the advantages and defects of the prod-uct. These are all important and less important ideasfor valorizing a traditional product by keeping itup-to-date.Today, the challenge is even greater, since theaim is to give coffee the value of a complete per-sonal experience: it is no longer enough to drinkespresso coffee - people should enjoy a uniqueproduct, together with the best complementaryitems, in a perfect setting with ideal colours, con-venience and scents. All this is done to ensurethat drinking a Pascucci espresso in a setting inline with the spirit of Pascucci becomes a per-sonal experience of true pleasure, of total har-mony. We are determined to achieve this goal.

12 - Coffee and health

Since coffee is so popular, studies have alwaysbeen conducted into its effects on the human bo-dy. A decisive period in the medical study of cof-fee was from 1970 to 1972, when the bio-phar-macological coffee symposium was held. Duringthis three year period, scientific data and analy-ses were gathered on an international scale, swee-ping aside many of the beliefs then held to bevalid. Since then, updates in the field have per-fected scientific-medical knowledge as regardsseveral definitive aspects:Coffee is by no means essential in human nutri-tion - but many of its substances have beneficialeffects on the organism. It is considered a ner-vine product since the most active substance isan alkaloid universally known as caffeine. A cupof espresso coffee contains 60/100 mg of caffei-ne, caffeine-free coffee 2/5 mg, a 150 cc cup ofinfusion coffee 90/130 mg and soluble coffee40/100 mg. First and foremost, coffee is not ad-dictive - although excessive consumption is unad-visable.It has beneficial effects - beginning with the he-


13 - The milk, production, structure and

Cappuccino

For a barista, milk, is a key element. Themilk-coffee association has now 400 years of his-tory (which we will look at later) and is thevehicle that brought many people who do notlike to drink coffee to start. Today in Italy thetotal consumption of coffee is considered:

• 80% espresso• 20% cappuccino and coffee-milk drinks

In the other countries is exactly the opposite! Forthis we must, to be complete, study this ma-terial, establishing the real differences and learnhow to use it.A great cappuccino should change the begin-ning of the day!

StructureThe milk is a white liquid secretion of themammary gland of terrestrial and marine mam-mals. It is generated during the gestation pe-riod and serves as the basis of nutritional wean-ing of pups. The first liquid of the female breastas soon after delivery is called colostrum andis intended to give, from vitamins and other com-ponents, the physical basis of the young's im-mune system.Two days later, on average, will have formed.The species that interests us now is of coursethe cow:There are different breeds of cow that producemilk for the market:

• Friesian – 30/35 lt milk/day• Jersey – 25 lt milk/day• Dutch – 50 lt milk/day• Buffalo – 15 lt milk/day

(only for cheese)

Each of these cows produces, depending onthe area and food, a different product in termsof nutritional values.The quality of the milk supply is directly pro-portional to the animal’s diet.

Typical composition of milk from farmed animals

Type % water % proteins % lactose % fats % minerals energy

Cow 87,47 3,51 4,92 3,68 0,74 729 kcal/kg

Goat 82,70 6,10 4,60 5,80 0,80 980 kcal/kg

Sheep 85,50 4,00 5,00 4,80 0,70 790 kcal/kg



Industrial processes of milk

COOLINGThe first treatment takes place in the milkingparlour. Here the milk, which comes from theudders of cows at a temperature of 37 °C, is con-veyed in closed tanks where milk is cooledand stored at 4 °C. With this temperature, bac-teria reproduce more slowly. Then the milk istransferred to the tankers, which transport itto dairies for processing into finished prod-uct.

PASTEURIZATIONThanks to the discoveries of the French chemist,Louis Pasteur, concerning the killing of Bru-cella by heat, it is customary now pasteurizeor heat the milk to temperatures capable ofkilling microbes. The treatment reduces the bac-terial load, resulting in minimal sensorychanges. All treatments end with cooling to 4°C: at this temperature fresh milk will keepfor 4-5 days, through the cold chain (refrig-erated trucks for distribution in the city, the coldcounter in the store and finally, the home re-frigerator).

Low pasteurizationThis treatment, which is no longer in use, isonly for milk with minimum contamination risk,which is taken to 65°C for 30 minutes. Thegenetic evolution of some bacteria has led to thistreatment becoming mainly ineffective for di-rect food use.

Quick Pasteurization HTST(High Temperature Short Time)The milk, after preheating, is heated to a tem-perature of 72 °C for at least 15 seconds. Thispasteurization is made possible through a reduc-tion in a thin layer of milk that is passed be-tween heated plates (‘stassanizzazione’ in I-

talian). This process also exploits the phenom-enon of bacterial cells attracted to the surfaceof the plate which presents an uneven surface:this causes a turbulent flow of liquid. Thistemperature kills about 96% of bacteria (ofprimary importance is the reduction of bacte-rial vegetative forms represented by the bac-teria Mycobacterium tuberculosis and brucel-losis), while 5% is composed of the spores,that is, bacteria in a form that has becomevery resistant to heat.To slow the growth of bacteria remaining, themilk is immediately cooled to 4° C. Pasteur-ized milk can be stored at 4° C for six days.

UHT PROCESS(Ultra High Temperature)This is a particular sterilization technique thatconsists of treating homogenized milk preheat-ed to least 135 °C, through the use of super-heated steam for not less than one second. AUHT indirect system is where the milk is ster-ilized through heat exchangers, while directUHT sterilization of milk is when it is in di-rect contact with the heating fluid that is steamfrom water. Subsequently it cools to 15-20 °C (the direct system means that the milk is s-lightly watered down by the steam) and thenit is aseptically packaged in tetra-brik contain-ers.The UHT process does not guarantee total de-struction of the most resistant spores, UHT milkis considered a "long life" milk and you can keepit for about 3 months at room temperature.The packaging of various types of UHT ster-ilized milk must indicate the date of minimumdurability "best before ... " (day, month, year).

STERILIZATIONThis is the most energic heat treatment and guar-antees complete elimination of all bacteria, in-


cluding spores. The most used method is ul-tra-heat treatment, taking the milk to very hightemperature (140-170°C), using steam, for a fewseconds. The sterilized milk lasts for a long timeat room temperature (180 days), however, onceopen, it needs to be kept in the refrigeratorand used within a few days. In fact, it cancome into contact with the micro organismsin the environment which, finding no otherbacteria to compete with, would be free tospread.Sterilized milk is significantly safer than UHTmilk from a bacteriological viewpoint, but it haslost the majority of its nutritional value andsome doubt its suitability as a food on accountof its reduced vitamins and altered calcium.As well as its nutritional content, the flavour toois different and therefore, sterilized milk is main-ly used as an export to poor countries. Milk thatis to be sterilized must test negative for phos-phatase and peroxidase.

MICROFILTRATIONMicrofiltration of milk is a part mechanicaland part heat treatment.It separates the lipid fraction of milk with cen-trifugation because it cannot be filtered: thisis then treated at 120-140 ° C. The skimmedmilk is micro-filtered through a porous mem-brane. The two fractions are then blended andpasteurized at 72-80 ° C. The result is milkwith characteristics similar to fresh, but thatcan be stored for up to ten days after treat-ment.

OTHER PROCESSESIn addition to thermal pasteurization and ster-ilization procedures, there are other process-es, depending on the particular product need-ed. Among the many include:• skimming

• homogenization• HD milk

SkimmingThe treatment is done to decrease the percent-age of fat in milk. It is done by centrifugingthe liquid until the fat (cream) is separated.The more intense and longer the centrifuga-tion, the more fat is separated.Semi-skimmed milk, in fact, contains fat per-centage of 1.5 to 1.8%, and low-fat milk, whichis more centrifuged, has a percentage of 0.5%max.

HomogenizationAfter being pasteurized or sterilized, milk canbe homogenized. This is a process frequentlyused by the milk production centres. It is passedunder pressure through a special valve (ho-mogenized) able to reduce all the fat globulesinto particles with a diameter 20 times small-er, thus forming a stable emulsion, and alsoavoiding the problem of fats surfacing. Theproduct becomes easier to digest. It is partic-ularly suitable for infants in the weaning pe-riod, and for the elderly with digestive problems.In Italy, it is a mandatory procedure.

HD MilkThe various milk products called HD, high di-gestibility, and their different trade names, arerecommended for those who do not have the en-zyme lactase and can not break down the lac-tose in its constituents. Therefore, the lactosein milk is converted to the two simple sugarsof disaccharide: glucose and galactose, or sug-ar is removed. Intolerance to milk but not thetrue allergy, which is less frequent, is usuallycaused by lactose, which is not split and there-fore not absorbed leaving it to recall fluids inthe digestive tract via osmosis, leading to di-gestive disorders.



Now, let’s take a closer look at the composi-tion of milk:

FATSPROTEINSLACTOSEWATER

Fats: Fats are present in whole, skimmed orsemi-skimmed milk, but in different percent-ages, which is why knowing the percentage al-lows us to choose the best milk, depending onusage.

- Whole Milk: 3 - 4 % fat- Semi-skimmed: 1.5 % fat- Skimmed: 0.5 % fat

These types of milk are all good to make the‘foam’ but it should be borne in mind that ifthere is more fat, the cream will be thick andelastic, so whole milk is the best choice. Forcold drinks, skimmed or semi skimmed milk isbetter, because with cold drinks we can feel thefat in our mouth more and which builds up onthe sides, leaving an ‘annoying taste.

Proteins: without protein you cannot make foam,and without foam, there is no cappuccino.Proteins are very fragile and become ruined astemperature increases; already at 50 ° C, theybecome heavily damaged and therefore, this is theideal overheating point, although it is also truethat this is not the ideal temperature for a cap-puccino: too little time for emulsion and too cold!The compromise between maintaining the pro-tein and satisfying the customer means not ex-ceeding 80/85°C and not falling below 50/55°C.In fact, at 85/90°C, the protein breaks downand releases unpleasant-smelling gases. Thatis why, UHT Milk, which is treated at 140/150°C

MILK {does not have a pleasant smell!When foaming milk, we stop at a temperaturewhich is around 70/75°C in order to avoid thebreakdown of proteins, but not burning tongueand palate of the customer.

Lattosio: About 1 / 3 of the adult populationworldwide is allergic to lactose, with the ex-ception of Asian people that do not include intheir diet - by adults - consumption of milk if notfor the weaning period. It is easy to see whyWesterners are so intolerant to lactose as an adult,if you think that nowhere in the world is thereany kind of carnivore that feeds on milk afterweaning.More specifically: our body's digestive systemis a kind of lock for the input of certain foods.Lactose is composed of two molecules: one ofglucose and galactose:

When there is milk intolerance, it means thatthe lactose molecule is too large for the lockof the digestive organs.This is why (in HD milk) enzymes are usedthat are able to separate the lactose moleculeinto two smaller ones: one glucose and one ofgalactose.These two smaller molecules are able now topass through the lock.These types of milk appear to be slightly sweetas glucose alone is able to release most of itsproperties.In recent years, the companies producing milkare studying a milk best suited to cappuccino,some are adding more protein and fat.


Sometimes, at work, the milk, which is alwaysthe same type, never foams. Why?

The problem is usually at the base, i.e., thecow, which at certain times of the year doesnot eat certain foods. This means that the milkfat is lacking and therefore, it is added. But thesefats are not the same as the natural products fromthe cow, unfortunately.Other times may be due to a simple human er-ror, leaving the milk just one more day in thetank where separation occurs. The best cowsto produce milk for cappuccino are those ofJersey cows because of their diet.Good coffee roasters in Denmark have beendoing research for years with various milk pro-ducers to find the best level characteristics tomatch with their coffee, so that they can ad-vise their clients how to better enhance thecoffee’s characteristics, even when served inthe form, for example, of cappuccino.

Cappuccino, History, Evolutionand Composition

An urban myth (or maybe not), says that in1683, after the 'Battle of Vienna', when thePrussian Empire drove the Ottoman threat fromEurope, the monk Marco d'Aviano (now B-lessed) collected a large amount of the bags ofcoffee left by the fleeing Turks.In Europe we already knew the charm of thisdrink, that had tonic 'powers' on attention andwakefulness, but few nutritional qualities. The‘Capuchin monk’ thought to add these nutri-tional qualities with milk and thus he contributedto the birth of one of the most drunk 'cocktail-s' in the world.The name 'cappuccino' is due to several rea-sons:• The drink is the colour of a monk's tunic.

• Its invention by a Capuchin monk.• The light cream milk around with the 'halo’

of black coffee is reminiscent of the shavedtonsure of the friars.

With the birth, 200 years later, of the espres-so machine, this drink (which was basicallythe first ‘lattè’) acquired charm by using thesteam wand of the machine to heat the milk,varying the proteins to form a sort of creamon the surface. In fact, we should attribute thebirth of real cappuccino we know it today tothe birth of the espresso machine. Years after,a famous ‘caffettaro’ from Naples called PieroMerlo saw that pouring from different distancesand with different movements, the cream woulddevelop strange shapes in the cup. This wasthe birth of 'latte art', now a huge marketing tech-nique studied and represented in internationalcompetitions.

How is Cappuccino made?Today, wanting to give a correct definition ofa cappuccino, we can say that is ‘the drink servedin a large 170cc cup, with 125cc of foamed milk,steam heated to a temperature that does not goabove 75 degrees C and 25cc of espresso’Now let’s look at a few more features:

• The milk should be whole and fresh, be-cause it is closest to the original drink. Ithas a high amount of fat and protein. Pro-teins make the cream; fats keep it suppleand persistent.

• Initially, the milk must be at a temperatureof 4°C.

• To get a perfect cappuccino, we need a per-fect espresso.

• Milk must be foamed on a wand that takesits steam from the boiler, which inside has70% water and 30% steam.



• We cannot bring the milk to above 75°C;else proteins would break down, causing odourand a making the milk difficult to digest.

• The drink called Cappuccino must contain theright amount of cream and the right amountof milk (almost identical proportions).

Equipment, Foaming and the right visual

For a perfect cappuccino, you need the correctequipment.Needless to say you need an espresso machine.We have already spoken about the quality ofmilk, now we can look at the rest:

The Milk Jug:▪ Single cappuccino▪ Half Litre for 2 cappuccinos▪ ¾ Litre for 3 cappuccinos▪ 1 Litre for 4 cappuccinos

The milk jug forfoaming must havethe followingfeatures:▪ Stainless steel for fewer problems with tem-

perature control.▪ Cone-shaped to facilitate the rotation of the

milk inside.▪ The nozzle is only important for decorated

cappuccinos▪ The milk cannot be foamed more than once

since the milk proteins used have already beenopened.

As for the steam nozzle is concerned, the ide-al flow is powerful and dry, with the right an-gle and position of the holes to allow the milkto turn to break large bubbles into smaller bub-bles on the walls of pitcher.The steam needs to be tested with the hand;it should neither burn nor wet. In these cases,


holes need to be closer together.The pitcher should be filled to just halfway tohave the right dose of milk for requested cap-puccino.This is very important, because we cannot steamthe same milk twice.

How to foam the milk:

▪ First flush the steam from the wand▪ Make the wand touch the milk, open to max-

after!▪ Leave the milk to stand, while proceeding

with the preparation of the espresso in cap-puccino cups.

▪ Homogenizing the cream with the liquid ina circular motion until it becomes reflective(not too fast and not too long or it will losebody).

▪ Always clean the bottom of the cup with asponge and proceed with the preparation of

imum flow and rotate the milk around theedge of the wand, while the wand foams itwith air.

▪ Immerse the wand slightly, still rotating themilk in the jug, to warm it up (check thetemperature with your hand on the jug -around 70/75 degrees to be perfect, thereare also thermometers to help you).

▪ Once the steam is off, wipe the wand witha sponge and always flush it through right

the two cappuccinos (the first always regu-lar, filling the cup halfway, while the sec-ond can serve to practise latte art; fill thefirst with the remainder in the jug).

▪ Both cappuccinos must have the same amountof foam.

If we pour near the cup, the cream will sit onthe espresso creating a white base. If we pourfrom away from the cup, the cream will gounder the espresso creating a ‘hazelnut’ base.



Latte Art consists of playing with these two pour-ing methods.

The emulsion of milk is important. It is themain goal, because if it is carried out proper-ly, then it is “controllable”.When talking about cappuccino we mean 'tra-ditional' or a cappuccino with latte art.

For two “traditional” cappuccinos:• Foam the milk• Prepare two espresso• Emulsify the cream in the pitcher• Clean the bottom of the cup with the right

towel• Incline the first cup until the cream of the

espresso touches the edge.

• Pour well mixed foam into the centre of theespresso cream (remember that it is still atan angle) and slowly straighten the cup, whichwe will fill only halfway

• Repeat on the second cup, however, fillingit all the way.

• Choose a point on the first cappuccino andfill without moving

Remind that the cappuccino is the world’s mostpopular espresso-based drink; it must maintainits 'caffettosità', and the balance between milkand coffee is the first thing to look for.Even more professional baristas decide to pro-pose different blends and mono-origin than reg-ularly served for the cappuccino!

WWW.PASCUCCI.IT

CAFFE PASCUCCI TORREFAZIONE SPAVia Circonvallazione 16/A - 61010 Monte Cerignone (PU) Italia

tel 0541 978524 e-mail: [email protected]

WWW.PASCUCCI.IT

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