NO FEAR:HOW TO FORMULATE HAIR COLOR

Self-Training Guide for Formulating Color

1. The Level System…….What is it?

Black

Brown

Blond

2. Tonal Value?

Ash

Red Gold

Neutral

Example: 10N means the level is10 and the tone is Neutral 9G = level 9 Gold tones 7R = level 7 Red tones 5 A= level 5 Ash tones

 3. The color Wheel: It is the Law

Primary colors

Yellow

RedBlue

The color Wheel Secondary colors

Green Orange

Violet

The Color Wheel

Complementary colors

Keep it simple rules:

4. What is the DRP?

5. Hair Texture

6. Color Formulation

To be able to determine color formulation and effectively color the hair, begin by answering the following questions?

a. What level of color is the client’s hair?b. What level of color does that client desire?c. What shade or color does that client prefer? (example: red, ash, neutral, or gold)d. What base color will neutralize or enhance the client’s color choice? e. Does the client have fine, medium, or coarse hair?

Example of color formulation:

Consider the following example, for lifting the natural hair color using the level system:

Client’s preferred color is a level 7.Client’s natural color is a level 4.Client’s texture is medium.Client does not want to enhance

the warm tones.

Subtract the natural color level from the level the client wishes to achieve.

Add the difference to the preferred color level. This will give you the proper color level to achieve the desired results:

Preferred level of color Level 7 Blond

Natural level of color (subtract) - Level 4 Brown Difference = 3 Levels

Preferred level of color Level 7 Blond

Difference (add) + 3 Levels

Level to use = Level 10 Blond

The level of color to be used is a level 10 blond with a blue base. The base color must be blue, or the orange (DRP) will show through and be too warm.

Review of the color formulation:

The client is a level 4 brown and wants to be a level 7 blond. The difference between the natural level of color (where the client is) and the desired level of color (where the client wants to be) is the three levels. If you use a level 7 color will the desired results be achieved?

Explanation of color choice:

No! One must use a color that will account for the difference between the client’s natural level and the client’s preferred level. A level 10 color is the correct choice, with the appropriate base color. However, using a level 10, which contains only pale yellow dyes, will not keep the orange in a level 7 from showing through. The results will be brassy. The medium texture does not change the formula.  

Practice Scenario for formulating hair color:

Consider the information learned and formulate the color to use on this client. Provide an explanation for the color choice.

Client’s preferred color is a level 8 blond.Client’s natural color is a level 6 brown.Client’s texture is medium.Client wants to be a warm red color.

Preferred level of color Level ______Natural level of color (subtract) - Level ______

Difference = ____ Levels

Preferred level of color Level -_____Difference (add) +______Level

Level to use = Level _____

 

Answer to Practice Scenario:  

Preferred level of color Level ___8___ Natural level of color (subtract) - Level ___6___ Difference = __2__ Levels Preferred level of color Level -__8___ Difference (add) +___2___Level

Level to use = Level ___10__  

Explanation for scenario:

The client is a level 6 brown and wants to be a level 8 red. The difference between the natural level of color (where the client is) and the desired level of color (where the client wants to be) is the two levels. If one uses a level 8 color, will the desired results be achieved? 

No! A color that will account for the difference between the client’s natural level and the client’s preferred level. 

A level 10 color is the correct choice, with the appropriate base color. Since you are lightening the client's hair, the warm tones will appear. Select a level 10 with a warm red base. The medium texture does not change the formula.

Post-Test Fill in the blanks below:1. _________________ is the numerical system of judging color in stages, or numbers, one level of being a measure of light or dark in the hair. 2. In the tonal value of hair color, what does each letter represent? A=________, N=_______________, G=____________, R=___________ 3. List three primary color: ___________, ___________, ___________ 4. List three secondary color: _________, ____________, ___________ 5. List the three complementary pairs: ______________, ___________, __________________ 6. What happens when you mix complementary colors together? ____ ________________________________________________________ 7. What does DRP represent in hair coloring? ________________________ ______________________________________________. 8. List the three-hair textures ___________, _____________, ___________ 9. Explain how hair texture effects hair color?________________________ __________________________________________________________ 

Answer Key to Post-test 1. Level System2. Ash, Neutral, Gold, Red3. Red, yellow, blue4. Green, orange, violet5. Blue-orange, violet-yellow, green-red6. There will be a browning out effect; the mixed colors will neutralize each other.7. Dominating Remaining Pigment8. Fine, medium, coarse9. The amount of time will vary with each texture