363 THE ANALYTICAL SANITARY COMMISSION. No. II. ON CLARET AND BURGUNDY. RESULTS OF THE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THIRTY-NINE SAMPLES OF RED WINES, INCLUDING CLARETS, BURGUNDIES, HUNGARIAN AND GREEK WINES. THE interest and importance of the subjoined analyses will be enhanced in some degree by the following quotations from the able report of Mr. Ogilvie referred to in the first portion of this article :- "The value or price of wines varies according to certain ,qualities or characteristics for which each description is pecu- liar. Thus the Burgundy and Bordeaux wines are appreciated for their fineness of flavour and bouquet; while the qualities sought in the wines of the Midi are body, colour, and strength. The proportions of all these are found to differ considerably, not only in the wines of different districts, but even in those produced at different times on the same spot and from the same plant. "The grape is always richest and most abundant in a dry, stony soil, where there is intense heat and but very little moisture. Rain fills the fruit with watery juice, which yields but a very scanty supply of sugar, and the wine made from such fruit is devoid of taste or strength, On the sunny sides of mountains, amidst the boulders and débris washed down, the vine strikes its roots through the scanty surface-soil to the depth of five or six feet, amid the crevices and fissures of the rocks, in search of moisture and aliment ; while it spreads its branches and leaves to be warmed in the noon-day heat and bathed in the dews of evening; and in proportion to the in- tensity of the sun’s heat will be the ripeness of the fruit. Agreeably to the-e laws of nature, we find that the plains in the northern and western parts of France produce light and generally inferior wines, the strength of which varies from 12 to 16 per cent. of proof spirit. The finest of the Bordeaux wines do not exceed that strength; but on the sides of the mountain ranges which run down through the east and south of France, from Dijon to the Pyrenees, and at the foot of which flow the waters of the Saone, the Rhone, and the Medi- terranean, we find the vine in the greatest abundance and luxuriance, and its fruit obtaining the greatest maturity, pro- ducing the greatest quantity of sugar, and consequently wine of the greatest strength. First in this district are the Bur- gundy wines, which are stronger than those of more northerly parts, but which, in their turn, yield in that respect to those produced further south ; and in the southern extremity of the department of the Eastern Pyrenees, where the sun pours down an almost tropical heat, and where the sea breezes come charged with moisture, all the requisites for the full develop- ment of the grape seem to be concentrated, and, as might be expected, the wines produced here are extremely strong. Such .are the natural phenomena upon which, in the first instance, the strength of wine is dependent; but the effect of these may be modified to the extent to which they are allowed to operate. In the natural process of ripening, as the formation of sugar progresses, the watery particles of the juice dry up or evapo- rate ; and therefore upon the period and stage of ripeness at which the grapes are gathered will to a great degree depend the quantity of sugar in the fruit and spirit in the wine. "The wines of Bordeaux, though far from strong, possess the peculiar property-in which they are said to differ from all other French wines-of not only withstanding the effect of the sea without deterioration, but of being actually improved by long voyages, for which reason they are highly esteemed in India, the United States, and South America. They also de- crease in strength with age, which is not the case with other .French wines." Of the justly celebrated and important wines produced at the foot and on the sides of the mountains called the " C6tes d’Or," situated in the Eastern centre of France, Mr. Ogilvie writes: " These wines, known in England under the general denomination of Burgundy, include some of the finest and most costly kinds produced in France. Their especial qualities are fine flavour, body, and strength. On some estates in this district it is the practice to add a quantity of sugar to the juice of the grapes." The wines grown in the department of the Saone and Loire, and the Rhone, among the mountains to the south of the Burgundy country, are denominated Maconnais and Beau- jolais, from the towns of Macon and Beaujeu. " These wines show a considerable strength, particularly those grown on -the mountains." Medoc and St. Emilion represent two of the qualities of the wine produced in the Bordeaux district. " These wines are more celebrated for their fine and delicate flavour and bouqueg than for their alcoholic strength." " The wines of St. Estephe have good flavour and bouquet, and keep well. They are reckoned wholesome, and are re- commended as good tonics." The St. Emilion district is situated to the east of Bordeaux. " The St. Emilion wines have been renowned from a very early period, and were well known and highly esteemed as far back as the fourteenth century." Composition of 1000 parts. CLARETS. Ist Sample. Bordeaux. -Purchased of Messrs. Brett and Co., 30, Regent- street, Piccadilly-circus. Price 14s. per dozen. Specific gravity, 996-7. Absolute alcohol, 87 54 per 1000 grains of wine. Volatile acids, chiefly acetic, 0 ’64. Fixed acids, chiefly tartaric, 10’32. Anhydrous phosphoric acid, 0’54. Grape sugar, 4’27. Cane sugar, or other matter convertible into cane sugar, none. Albuminous matter, 1’35. Total solids, 23’76. Ash, 2-57. Full body and colour, not acid, rough, astringent, and.sound. 2nd Sample. Claret.-Purchased of Messrs. Fearon and Long, 94, Holborn- hill. 12s. per dozen. Specific gravity, 996’3. Alcohol, 94-11. Acetic acid, 0’99. ’ Tartaric acid, 10 68. Phosphoric acid, 0’48 Grape sugar, 2-09. Cane sugar, or other matter convertible into grape sugar, 3’54. Albuminous matter, 1’ll. Total solids, 20’24. Ash, 2 37. Of a deep colour and rather full flavour; a little styptic, but of fair alcoholic strength. 3rd Sample. Vin Ordinaire.-Purchased of the European and Colonial Wine Company, 122, Pall-mall. 15s. per dozen. Specific gravity, 995.0. Alcohol, 98’61. Acetic acid, 1’48. Tartaric acid, 9 27. Phosphoric acid, 0 361. Grape sugar, 4’29. Cane sugar, or other matter convertible into cane sugar, 1-52. Albuminous matter, 1’08. Total solids, 22’68. Ash, 2’40. Mild, of a full body and deep colour, strong, slightly styptic, but a pleasant wine. 4th Sample. Claret. -Purchased of Messrs. Ingram and Co., 35, Bucklers- bury, E. C. 18s. per dozen. Specific gravity, 995’60. Alcohol, 89’97. Acetic acid, 1 02. Tartaric acid, 11’65. Phosphoric acid, 0’401. Grape sugar, 5’46. Cane sugar, or other matter convertible into cane sugar, 0’81. Albuminous matter, 1’26. Total solids, 18 68. Ash, 1’95. Rather deep coloured; a little sharp, but still mild, fruity, and of superior flavour. A very good and cheap wine.
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363
THE
ANALYTICAL SANITARYCOMMISSION.
No. II.
ON CLARET AND BURGUNDY.
RESULTS OF THE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THIRTY-NINESAMPLES OF RED WINES, INCLUDING CLARETS,
BURGUNDIES, HUNGARIAN ANDGREEK WINES.
THE interest and importance of the subjoined analyses willbe enhanced in some degree by the following quotations fromthe able report of Mr. Ogilvie referred to in the first portionof this article :-"The value or price of wines varies according to certain
,qualities or characteristics for which each description is pecu-liar. Thus the Burgundy and Bordeaux wines are appreciatedfor their fineness of flavour and bouquet; while the qualitiessought in the wines of the Midi are body, colour, and strength.The proportions of all these are found to differ considerably,not only in the wines of different districts, but even in thoseproduced at different times on the same spot and from thesame plant."The grape is always richest and most abundant in a dry,
stony soil, where there is intense heat and but very littlemoisture. Rain fills the fruit with watery juice, which yieldsbut a very scanty supply of sugar, and the wine made fromsuch fruit is devoid of taste or strength, On the sunny sidesof mountains, amidst the boulders and débris washed down,the vine strikes its roots through the scanty surface-soil to thedepth of five or six feet, amid the crevices and fissures of therocks, in search of moisture and aliment ; while it spreads itsbranches and leaves to be warmed in the noon-day heat andbathed in the dews of evening; and in proportion to the in-tensity of the sun’s heat will be the ripeness of the fruit.Agreeably to the-e laws of nature, we find that the plains inthe northern and western parts of France produce light andgenerally inferior wines, the strength of which varies from12 to 16 per cent. of proof spirit. The finest of the Bordeauxwines do not exceed that strength; but on the sides of themountain ranges which run down through the east and southof France, from Dijon to the Pyrenees, and at the foot ofwhich flow the waters of the Saone, the Rhone, and the Medi-terranean, we find the vine in the greatest abundance andluxuriance, and its fruit obtaining the greatest maturity, pro-ducing the greatest quantity of sugar, and consequently wineof the greatest strength. First in this district are the Bur-
gundy wines, which are stronger than those of more northerlyparts, but which, in their turn, yield in that respect to thoseproduced further south ; and in the southern extremity of thedepartment of the Eastern Pyrenees, where the sun poursdown an almost tropical heat, and where the sea breezes comecharged with moisture, all the requisites for the full develop-ment of the grape seem to be concentrated, and, as might beexpected, the wines produced here are extremely strong. Such.are the natural phenomena upon which, in the first instance,the strength of wine is dependent; but the effect of these maybe modified to the extent to which they are allowed to operate.In the natural process of ripening, as the formation of sugar progresses, the watery particles of the juice dry up or evapo-rate ; and therefore upon the period and stage of ripeness atwhich the grapes are gathered will to a great degree dependthe quantity of sugar in the fruit and spirit in the wine."The wines of Bordeaux, though far from strong, possess the
peculiar property-in which they are said to differ from allother French wines-of not only withstanding the effect of
the sea without deterioration, but of being actually improved bylong voyages, for which reason they are highly esteemed inIndia, the United States, and South America. They also de-crease in strength with age, which is not the case with other.French wines."
Of the justly celebrated and important wines produced atthe foot and on the sides of the mountains called the " C6tes
d’Or," situated in the Eastern centre of France, Mr. Ogilviewrites: " These wines, known in England under the generaldenomination of Burgundy, include some of the finest andmost costly kinds produced in France. Their especial qualitiesare fine flavour, body, and strength. On some estates in thisdistrict it is the practice to add a quantity of sugar to thejuice of the grapes."The wines grown in the department of the Saone and
Loire, and the Rhone, among the mountains to the south ofthe Burgundy country, are denominated Maconnais and Beau-jolais, from the towns of Macon and Beaujeu. " These winesshow a considerable strength, particularly those grown on -themountains." Medoc and St. Emilion represent two of the qualities of the
wine produced in the Bordeaux district. " These wines aremore celebrated for their fine and delicate flavour and bouquegthan for their alcoholic strength."
" The wines of St. Estephe have good flavour and bouquet,and keep well. They are reckoned wholesome, and are re-commended as good tonics."The St. Emilion district is situated to the east of Bordeaux.
" The St. Emilion wines have been renowned from a veryearly period, and were well known and highly esteemed as farback as the fourteenth century."
Composition of 1000 parts.CLARETS.Ist Sample.
Bordeaux. -Purchased of Messrs. Brett and Co., 30, Regent-street, Piccadilly-circus. Price 14s. per dozen.
Specific gravity, 996-7. Absolute alcohol, 87 54 per 1000grains of wine. Volatile acids, chiefly acetic, 0 ’64. Fixedacids, chiefly tartaric, 10’32. Anhydrous phosphoric acid,0’54. Grape sugar, 4’27. Cane sugar, or other matterconvertible into cane sugar, none. Albuminous matter,1’35. Total solids, 23’76. Ash, 2-57.
Full body and colour, not acid, rough, astringent, and.sound.
2nd Sample.Claret.-Purchased of Messrs. Fearon and Long, 94, Holborn-
Full-bodied, soft, and astringent; a sound and good wine.
15th Sample.Paucdeuse.-Purchased of MM. Piot Frères, 282, Regent-
street, W. 14s. per dozen.Specific gravity, 993’10. Alcohol, 101’92. Acetic acid, 2-118.
Tartaric acid, 9’0. Phosphoric acid, 0’239. Grape sugar,3’69. Cane sugar, or other matter convertible into grapesugar, 0’29. Albuminous matter, 0’796. Total solids,19’42. Ash, 2’09.
Of a light and tawny red colour, like that of old port;, thickish, as though a crust had been disturbed; acid; a’ slight aroma ; flavour peculiar, and not unlike that of
j mild old port ; of considerable alcoholic strength.
16th Sample.Ohâteau Kirwan.-Purchased of Messrs. H. R. Williams and
