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Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

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Non-Conventional Non-Conventional Preservation Preservation Tim Kapsner Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation Aveda Corporation
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Page 1: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Non-Conventional Non-Conventional PreservationPreservation

Tim KapsnerTim Kapsner

Senior Research ScientistSenior Research Scientist

Aveda CorporationAveda Corporation

Page 2: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

““Classic” PreservativesClassic” Preservatives

Diazolidinyl UreaDiazolidinyl Urea Quaternium-15Quaternium-15 Sodium HydroxymethylglycinateSodium Hydroxymethylglycinate KathonKathon ParabensParabens DMDM HydantoinDMDM Hydantoin ChloroxylenolChloroxylenol

Page 3: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Common “Non-Conventional” Common “Non-Conventional” PreservativesPreservatives

Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Acids and saltsAcids and salts

Benzyl AlcoholBenzyl Alcohol PhenoxyethanolPhenoxyethanol

Page 4: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Naturally Derived Naturally Derived AntimicrobialsAntimicrobials

Page 5: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Grapefruit Seed ExtractGrapefruit Seed Extract

Aka carrier for Triclosan, Benzethonium Chloride, Benzalkonium Chloride

Page 6: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Lonicera (Honeysuckle) Lonicera (Honeysuckle) ExtractExtract

Aka carrier for Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Page 7: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

HinokitiolHinokitiol

Extracted from Japanese pine treeExtracted from Japanese pine tree $1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural$1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural Effective at 0.01 to 0.05%Effective at 0.01 to 0.05% Broad spectrumBroad spectrum Difficult to dissolveDifficult to dissolve OdorOdor

Page 8: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

And Many OthersAnd Many Others

NET-DTB (Barnet)NET-DTB (Barnet) Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br)Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br) GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid

blend)blend) Polylysine (Ajinomoto)Polylysine (Ajinomoto) EthanolEthanol

Page 9: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Essential OilsEssential Oils

Lemongrass OilLemongrass Oil Lemon Tea Tree OilLemon Tea Tree Oil Tea Tree OilTea Tree Oil Lippia SidoidesLippia Sidoides Origanum OilOriganum Oil

Page 10: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Vendor Blends of Natural Vendor Blends of Natural StuffStuff

Page 11: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Vendor BlendsVendor Blends

Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol)cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol)

Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative)Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative) Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme, Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme,

cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, golden seal), Neopein, Suprapeingolden seal), Neopein, Suprapein

Page 12: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Functional Ingredients that Functional Ingredients that are also Antimicrobialare also Antimicrobial

Page 13: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

EmulsifiersEmulsifiers

Page 14: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

PhospholipidsPhospholipids

Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate)PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate)

Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl . . .) – Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl . . .) – more functional, more irritatingmore functional, more irritating

Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl . . .) -- Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl . . .) -- newnew

Page 15: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Glyceryl EstersGlyceryl Esters

Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Kabarra)Kabarra)

Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Inolex)Inolex)

Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Abitec)Abitec)

Page 16: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Emollients/SolventsEmollients/Solvents

PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE)PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G)Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G) Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O)Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O) GlycineGlycine Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT)Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT)

Page 17: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Organic AcidsOrganic Acids

Benzoic (pK 4.19)Benzoic (pK 4.19) SorbicSorbic Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne)Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne) UsnicUsnic Tartaric (pK 4.34)Tartaric (pK 4.34) Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11)Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11)

Page 18: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Organic AcidsOrganic Acids

pH restrictionspH restrictions pH driftpH drift IrritationIrritation

Page 19: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Phenoxyethanol vs. Phenethyl Phenoxyethanol vs. Phenethyl AlcoholAlcohol

Rose Ether

$3.5/kg

Synthetic $5/kg

Natural $2000/kg

Page 20: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Plant ExtractsPlant Extracts

Microplate MIC (Minimum Microplate MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration)Inhibitory Concentration)

Page 21: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Microplate MIC MethodMicroplate MIC Method

E.coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%)

100 % Growth

Blank

Germall Lippia

Page 22: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Microplate MIC MethodMicroplate MIC Method

E.Coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%)

Colorimetric Dye Resazurin

Blank

Blank = No Growth (Blue)

100% Growth (Red)

Germall Lippia

Page 23: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

Plant Extract MICPlant Extract MIC

Germall II - 0.039%Germall II - 0.039% Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060%Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060% Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084%Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084% Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11%Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11% Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068%Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068%

Page 24: Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation.

THANK YOU !THANK YOU !


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