Non-Conventional Non-Conventional PreservationPreservation

Tim KapsnerTim Kapsner

Senior Research ScientistSenior Research Scientist

Aveda CorporationAveda Corporation

““Classic” PreservativesClassic” Preservatives

Diazolidinyl UreaDiazolidinyl Urea Quaternium-15Quaternium-15 Sodium HydroxymethylglycinateSodium Hydroxymethylglycinate KathonKathon ParabensParabens DMDM HydantoinDMDM Hydantoin ChloroxylenolChloroxylenol

Common “Non-Conventional” Common “Non-Conventional” PreservativesPreservatives

Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Acids and saltsAcids and salts

Benzyl AlcoholBenzyl Alcohol PhenoxyethanolPhenoxyethanol

Naturally Derived Naturally Derived AntimicrobialsAntimicrobials

Grapefruit Seed ExtractGrapefruit Seed Extract

Aka carrier for Triclosan, Benzethonium Chloride, Benzalkonium Chloride

Lonicera (Honeysuckle) Lonicera (Honeysuckle) ExtractExtract

Aka carrier for Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

HinokitiolHinokitiol

Extracted from Japanese pine treeExtracted from Japanese pine tree $1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural$1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural Effective at 0.01 to 0.05%Effective at 0.01 to 0.05% Broad spectrumBroad spectrum Difficult to dissolveDifficult to dissolve OdorOdor

And Many OthersAnd Many Others

NET-DTB (Barnet)NET-DTB (Barnet) Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br)Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br) GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid

blend)blend) Polylysine (Ajinomoto)Polylysine (Ajinomoto) EthanolEthanol

Essential OilsEssential Oils

Lemongrass OilLemongrass Oil Lemon Tea Tree OilLemon Tea Tree Oil Tea Tree OilTea Tree Oil Lippia SidoidesLippia Sidoides Origanum OilOriganum Oil

Vendor Blends of Natural Vendor Blends of Natural StuffStuff

Vendor BlendsVendor Blends

Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol)cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol)

Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative)Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative) Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme, Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme,

cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, golden seal), Neopein, Suprapeingolden seal), Neopein, Suprapein

Functional Ingredients that Functional Ingredients that are also Antimicrobialare also Antimicrobial

EmulsifiersEmulsifiers

PhospholipidsPhospholipids

Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate)PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate)

Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl . . .) – Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl . . .) – more functional, more irritatingmore functional, more irritating

Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl . . .) -- Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl . . .) -- newnew

Glyceryl EstersGlyceryl Esters

Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Kabarra)Kabarra)

Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Inolex)Inolex)

Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Abitec)Abitec)

Emollients/SolventsEmollients/Solvents

PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE)PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G)Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G) Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O)Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O) GlycineGlycine Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT)Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT)

Organic AcidsOrganic Acids

Benzoic (pK 4.19)Benzoic (pK 4.19) SorbicSorbic Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne)Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne) UsnicUsnic Tartaric (pK 4.34)Tartaric (pK 4.34) Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11)Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11)

Organic AcidsOrganic Acids

pH restrictionspH restrictions pH driftpH drift IrritationIrritation

Phenoxyethanol vs. Phenethyl Phenoxyethanol vs. Phenethyl AlcoholAlcohol

Rose Ether

$3.5/kg

Synthetic $5/kg

Natural $2000/kg

Plant ExtractsPlant Extracts

Microplate MIC (Minimum Microplate MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration)Inhibitory Concentration)

Microplate MIC MethodMicroplate MIC Method

E.coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%)

100 % Growth

Blank

Germall Lippia

Microplate MIC MethodMicroplate MIC Method

E.Coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%)

Colorimetric Dye Resazurin

Blank

Blank = No Growth (Blue)

100% Growth (Red)

Germall Lippia

Plant Extract MICPlant Extract MIC

Germall II - 0.039%Germall II - 0.039% Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060%Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060% Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084%Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084% Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11%Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11% Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068%Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068%

THANK YOU !THANK YOU !