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NWPalateJanuary / February 2010

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Features

26 TheInns&DiningOuts

ofOregonsWillametteValley

34 TheNewWaveofSustainableSushi42 SkyTrain Departments14 DestinationDini

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16 IntheKitchen19 Ingredients47 PickofhtePalate

FirstCourse08 RecentOpenings20 Date

bookNorthwest66 FreshfortheNorthwest

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The Inns & Dining Outs of

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by Cole Danehower

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The Willamette Valley has long been a favored destination of thehungry and thirsty. Lured by visions of agricultural riches, nearly halfa million 19th century pioneers journeyed west. Reaching theend of the Oregon Trail, they spread across the valley to fill it withsome of the earliest farms, orchards, vineyardseven a disti lleryin the Northwest. Today, the Willamette Valley remainsa grail for travelers wanting to experience the alimentaryaffluence of one of Americas greatest agrarian regions.

The 21st century culinary tourist will find much to explore inthe Willamette Valley, from nearly 200 wineries and morethan a dozen breweries, to innumerable roadside farm stands,farmers markets, and U-pick farms. And thanks to a variety ofboth old and new visitor resources, experiencing these riches hasnever been easier or more pleasurable.

The Allison Inn & Spa, for instance, epitomizes the renascentpioneer spirit. Newly opened, The Allison offers amenitiesgalore, making it the first destination resort in the valley andan ideal launching pad for exploring the epicurean attractions.

Roaming the Heart of Oregons Wine CountryIn the Willamette Valley, you dont want to spend all oyour time indoors. This is world-famous wine country, afteall. But with nearly 200 wineries to choose from, wheredo you start? One approach is to visit a wine bar where ase le ct ion of th e regions wines can be sampled in onesitting. The brainchild of one of Oregons foundingwine families, the Ponzi Wine Bar on Highway 99 in

Dundee is both a wine industry hangout and a greaplace to take a virtual tour of surrounding wineriesWhile you enjoy small plates and carefully selected wineflights, chat with fellow visitors or the knowledgeablestaff to get ideas on where to go next. Further southin McMinnville, the new Willamette Valley VineyardsWine Center offers fascinating educational exhibitsthat add valuable context to your tast ings in thevalley. While you can only purchase Willamette ValleyVineyards wines here, the winery generously poursa rotating selection of regional samples that can get youready for visiting tasting rooms on your own. (See page

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15 for a full write-up about the wine center.) Nearby, theNW Wine Bar has an eclectic sampling of both Old andNew World wines alongside a menu of small plates,sandwiches, and pizzas to sustain you for further winetravels. The Horse Radish in Carlton is another welcomingplace to drop in and taste the areas wines; while yourethere, pick up a selection of artisan cheeses, cured meats,

and deli sandwiches for the road. When planning to visitindividual tasting rooms, strategizing a doable tasting day canbe challenging. Make it easy: tour and taste in just one ofthe Willamette Valleys six sub-appellations, so you can samplein depth the localized differences in soil and climate thatmake each appellation unique. For instance, in theDundee Hills appellation, where Pinot Noir got its start inthe Willamette Valley, there are many famous-namewineries that offer prestige wines and rich tasting roomselections. Domaine Drouhin, Archery Summit, DomaineSerene, Stoller, The Eyrie, Sokol Blosser, Argyle, and Erathare prime examples.

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More than Just Wine CountryWhile the Willamette Valley is famous as a viticultural region,you dont have to stick to wine. In Forest Grove, SakOne is theonly American-owned and -operated kura (sak brewery) inthe world. Thanks to the quality of the local water, SakOneproduces both traditional sak and new, American-inspiredstyles. They have fantastic rice wine. A visit to their shopprovides a different kind of tasting experience, and one thatcan only be had in the Willamette Valley.

Another tasty beverage made in the Willamette Valley is hardcider. The Wandering Aengus Ciderworks tasting room in theEola Hills outside of Salem illustrates just how appealingthis ancient beverage can be. Owners Mimi Casteel and NickGunn use sustainably grown cider apples (more tart than fornormal eating), many from heirloom strains, to craft a varietyof local ciders, from dry to sweet. Enjoyable on their own, theyalso make great food accompaniments.

Since the Willamette Valley is one of the worlds leadingproducers of hops, it is no wonder the area offers many locallymade beers. Mostly found in the valleys cities, craft brewersproduce multiple styles. In Corvallis, look for Oregon Trail

Brewery and Block 15 Restaurant & Brewery. Albany is homeCalapooia Brewing, and Hop Valley is in Springfield. In tSilverton area, sample tap beers from Seven Brides Brewinand in Oakridge youll find Oregons only Real Ale stEnglish pub and brewery at Brewers Union Local 180. AlsoCorvallis, Salem, Eugene, and McMinnville, you can find locamade beers at the many different McMenamins properties.

Eugene is also a destination for fine beer. Steelhead Brewioffers craft beers and food at their brewpub, while Eugene CBrewery bills itself as an artisan varietal brewery that offebrews and bites. Ninkasi Brewing has no pub (though visitoare welcome), but their fine beers are brewed here and fouaround the local scene. The beers of small Oakshire Brewiand McMinnvilles Heater Allen are also on tap at many locrestaurants and taverns.

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