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Wild Rock Angels DustHawkes BaySyrah 2007about$24Rating:�����
Value: V V V
Hints of butterscotch andcoffee from the oak, butwith concentrated, soft,almost jammy berry fruitand a crisp, firm, tinglyfinish.
www.wildrockwine.co.nz
Taylors Jaraman
Shiraz 2005about$28Rating:�����
Value: V V V
Top of the line fromTaylors, this has all themouthfilling generosityof fruit from Clare andMcLaren Vale in SouthAustralia, with hints ofeucalyptus, spice, richdark berries, velvetytexture and longaftertaste. One of thosefine Australian shirazes,many of which are nowreaching stratosphericalprices.
www.taylorswines.com.au
SHIRAZ or syrah, depending on whether itcomes from Australia or New Zealand, canrange from lively and peppery tovoluptuously rich and velvety, some with afirm grip that can be toothsucking.
While there’s a lot of easy, goodvalueAustralian shiraz around, some of the bestwines reach stratospheric prices ascollectors vie for them.
In New Zealand, syrahs tend to beexpensive — a bit like pinot noir. It’s goodto see some very drinkable ones priced inthe low $20s, but for a real treat, try one ofthe superb ones from Hawkes Bay like theChurch Road Reserve, or Mills Reef Elspeth.
For more wines from this tasting, seewine reviews on www.odt.co.nz
Mills Reef ElspethHawkes BaySyrah 2006about$40Rating:�����
Value: V V V
Blackberries andboysenberries with ahint of black pepper, maltand mint, balanced withspicy oak and a firmfinish, make this long,concentrated winedelicious.
www.millsreef.co.nz
Vidal ReserveHawkes BaySyrah 2006about$55Rating:�����
Value: V V V
At present this ispeppery and powerfulwith raw oak and a firmgrip, cushioned by spicy,concentrated, dark berryfruit, but it shows greatpromise. Drink now ifyou like big, muscularwines, but if you cellar itfor four or five years itmay well develop into afine complex wine.
www.vidal.co.nz
Church Road Reserve HawkesBay Syrah 2007 (about $34)
Of the dozen syrahs inthis tasting, this was myfavourite, with the colourof deep velvet, pure fruitsuggestingboysenberries andcherries, but mellowedby spicy oak and hints ofnutty biscuits and toffee.Long, powerful but inelegant balance.
Rating:�����Value: V V V
www.churchroad.co.nz
WaimeaNelsonSyrah 2007about$22Rating:�����
Value: V V V
Juicy fruit suggestingraspberries andblackberries with a hintof mint, a backgroundundertone of carameland a firm, dry finish.
www.waimeaestates.co.nz
A vision forMarlboroughBy CHARMIAN SMITH
Cheers . . . Prime Minister John Key and FrankYukich unveil a monument celebrating 30vintages of Montana Marlborough sauvignonblanc at Montana’s Brancott Vineyard. PHOTO: SUPPLIED
IT takes a brave person and a leap ofimagination to plant hectares of vines in anarea where everyone tells you grapes won’tgrow, but that is what is behind the story ofMarlborough sauvignon blanc.
Most new wine areas in the country werepioneered by people planting small vineyards,but Frank Yukich, whose father, Ivan, foundedMontana Wines near Auckland, covertlybought 1620ha of Marlborough farmland toturn into vineyards in 1973.
When they planted the first vines on August24 that year, he said ‘‘Wines from here willbecome world famous’’, which turned out to beextraordinarily prescient.
Mr Yukich left the company a year later,when his relationship with Seagram, by then amajor shareholder, turned sour.
Montana (now part of the multinationalcorporation Pernod Ricard) celebrated its30th vintage of sauvignon blanc recently .Prime Minister John Key unveiled amonument with Mr Yukich’s words at theoriginal Brancott Estate vineyard. Mr Yukich,now in his 80s, told the story of his dream ofMarlborough vineyards and the struggle tofulfil it.
It was important not to rely on past successfor the future, nor to stand still, he said. At thetime, conventional wisdom in the NewZealand wine industry was that wine grapeswould not ripen in the South Island.
Viticulturist Wayne Thomas researched thearea and Mr Yukich bought 1620ha offarmland in the Brancott Valley, paying anonrefundable deposit. However, the boardof directors refused to sanction the purchase.
Mr Thomas submitted his report to ProfH.W. Berg at the University of Californiaviticulture department, who confirmed thesuitability of the region for wine growing, andthe board finally gave its approval. Planting,mostly of muller thurgau, went ahead,although of the first 1000 acres planted, only250 survived the first season’s drought, MrYukich said.
Montana planted its first sauvignon blanc in1975, and it and a few other, smaller wineproducers, including Hunter’s, grew andexported Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Bythe late 1980s, it was receiving accoladesoverseas, as wine lovers came to realise thesynergy of this variety and this place produceda wine with its own character, different fromanything else in the world.
Now, there are more than 13,800ha ofvineyard filling the Wairau and Awaterevalleys and they are still extending, and NewZealand exports some 66,850,000 litres ofsauvignon blanc. It’s apparently thebiggestselling white wine in Australia atpresent.
Some smart wines from Waipara ValleyBy CHARMIAN SMITH
Vineyards are spreading across the Waipara Valley, north of Christchurch. PHOTO: CHARMIAN SMITH
LOOKING down from the hill behind theGreystone Vineyard, you can see almost thewhole of the Waipara Valley, with vineyardsswathed in bird nets. While other parts of thecountry are hunkering down under grey skies,the warm nor’wester is blowing down thesunny valley, whisking away disease sporesand ripening the grapes.
Waipara Valley is about 30 minutes’ drivenorth of Christchurch — just the distance for along weekend visit from this part of thecountry.
Many producers have ‘‘cellar doors’’, thereare a handful of winery and other restaurants,and numerous B&Bs. There’s even a farmers’market in Amberley on Saturday mornings.
Vinegrowing started in the Waipara area inthe early 1980s, about the same time as inCentral Otago. Wineyards may not have spreadas profusely as those in Central, but there’s amore laidback feel to the area, and thecountryside is gentler. It is sheltered from thecold easterlies by the Teviotdale hills, withwarm days, cold nights and warm, dryautumns.
Waipara has about 1200 ha of vineyards and80 producers, including multinationalsPernod Ricard and Constellation,mediumsized ones like Mud House,Sherwood and Pegasus Bay, and a host ofsmall producers, some of whom are producingvery smart wine.
We don’t see a lot of Waipara wine in theSouth, loyal as we are to Central Otago wines,and many of the smaller producers sell wineon the internet, but it’s worth seeking out someof their stylish pinot noir, gewurztraminer,pinot gris, flavoursome sauvignon blancs andchardonnays, and, above all, beautifullypoised and racy riesling.
In fact Waipara is laying claim to riesling asits specialty and recently organised the second‘‘In Praise of Riesling’’, the only celebration inthe country dedicated to riesling.
Held at Pegasus Bay winery, it started withcontext — a tasting of 18 superb rieslings fromGermany, France, Austria and Australia, thenanother of rieslings from areas around NewZealand. It went on to discuss the newdrysweet scale proposed for labels to giveconsumers more information about the style ofwine, showed rieslings from Waiparaproducers and ended with a dinner designedby Pegasus Bay chef Oliver Jackson to go withvarious styles of riesling.
Riesling fascinates its admirers for its many
facets, from steely dry to intensely sweet, frommineral to tropical fruit and honey flavours,from delicate floral styles to big, mouthfillingwines that develop remarkably with age. Butthe key to a good riesling is always poise andbalance between the acidity that oftenprovides the backbone, and the richness offruit.
Many of the Waipara winemakers pay a lot ofattention to their rieslings, both in thevineyard and in the winery, and this shows inthe wines.
Some of the many that stood out at thetasting were:
The first vintage of Mountford Riesling 2008,hinting of fresh apricots and honey, with arich, steely dry finish; the fragrant, delicateCrater Rim Waipara Riesling 2008 (about $21)with a steely backbone; the textural DancingWater Oneuku Riesling 2008 (about $32),intense with hints of citrus, grapefruit and
mineral; lively, intense Weka River Riesling2007 (about $23), which is already developingrich hints of buttered toast with lime andtropical marmalade; the charming, poisedFiddler’s Green Classic Riesling 2008 (about$23); and the luscious, beautifully balancedDaniel Schuster Hull Family Vineyard LateHarvest Riesling 2006 (about $26 half bottle)with hints of mineral and white peach withbitter skin.
Rieslings will develop with a few yearsbottle age, and judging by the few older ones Itasted at ‘‘In Praise of Riesling’’, the richMuddy Water Dry Riesling 2000, and thebeautifully balanced Pegasus Bay Riesling2003, they develop a beautiful hint of butteredtoast with honey or lime marmalade.
But Waipara also produces other varieties,the best of which share the same poise andfruit purity as their best rieslings.
Waipara pinot gris is balanced, with good
variety character and texture,gewurztraminers fragrant with more of theeau de cologne character and more elegancethan blowsy rose petal ones from the north.Some of the standouts I tasted were: thegorgeously floral, luscious GreystoneGewurztraminer 2008 (about $24); PegasusBay Gewurztraminer 2007 (about $35), fragrantwith hints of eaudecologne mint and spice,with a gorgeous, bright finish; Dancing WaterTauhou Scheurebe 2008 (about $32), anuncommon variety related to riesling, this isluscious with lovely purity of fruit oozingmango and ripe peach, a lovely soft, oilytexture and a long, intense, finish; thecharming and easy Boundary Vineyard PaperLane Pinot Gris 2008 (about $23); the mouthfilling, textural Fiddlers Green Pinot Gris 2008(about $23); the rich, honeyed, texturalTerrace Edge Pinot Gris 2008 (about $20); thestylish Weka River Pinot Gris 2008 (about $28),with a hint of nuts and toffee; Bishops HeadPinot Gris 2007 (about $24), poised, texturaland slightly nutty.
Chardonnays from Waipara tend to be crisp,fragrant with hints of tropical and stone fruit,and mineral, and sauvignon blancs tend tohave a hint of mineral and mint.
At a lunch for wine writers after tastingchardonnays and sauvignons, I noted most ofus chose a glass of the lush, complex PegasusBay sauvignon blanc semillon — 2006 and 2007($28) were the favoured vintages.
While Central Otago and Martinboroughhave claimed pinot noir, Waipara makes somevery fine examples ranging from lighter winesto go with something simple like pasta and afew mushrooms, to richer, more complex onesthat call for a rich, gamey dish:
Waipara West Pinot Noir 2006 (about $35)hints of leather, mineral and dark fruits withsilky texture; the velvety textured, crisp andpoised Greystone Pinot Noir 2007 (about $36);the stylish Mountford Pinot Noir 2006 (about$65), with sweet fruit cushioning a firmstructure; and the wonderfully fragrant,complex, structured but charming DanielSchuster Omihi Selection Pinot Noir 2006(about $90).
On the web
For more information visit:www.waiparawine.co.nzwww.hurunui.com/Information/Waiparawww.inpraiseofriesling.co.nz
On the menu Charmian Smith
John Buck
First signs of autumnWHEN I went to buy fish at theOtago Farmers Market at theDunedin Railway Station onSaturday and found neither ofthe regular fish stalls there, itmade me realise just howdependent on the weather theyare.
The weather prevented TonyEdmonds taking the boat overthe bar at Taieri Mouth all lastweek, Michelle Edmonds, ofEdmonds Fishing, said.
However, they expect to be atthe market this week, as theweather is forecast to be good.
However, I saw the firstCentral Otago quinces in themarket. There are alsopumpkins at some of the stalls,and apples and pears havebeen around for a while,heralding autumn.
Freerange piecesIT’S great to see the DunedinPoultry stall at the farmersmarket now offering freerangechicken pieces.
They come from Inghamsand are bred in the Waikato,according to Chris Webber.
For those of us who avoid theintensively raised chickenbecause of its lack of flavour orfor ethical reasons, and find itinconvenient to buy a whole
freerange chicken, it meanschicken can be on the menumore often.
New wine at Te MataONE of New Zealand’s elderstatesmen of wine, John Buck,of Te Mata Estate in HawkesBay, and son Nicholas, whonow runs the company, were intown recently for their annualshowcase of their flagshipwines, including the first newone in the range in 17 years,Zara Viognier 2008. It’s namedafter John’s granddaughter,the first girl born into the Buckfamily in three generations, andmade from the white varietythis company pioneered in NewZealand in 1995.
Since Buck bought the estatein 1974, he has concentrated onproducing classical styles ofwine, from their goodvalueWoodthorpe range to theflagship Coleraine which hasled the way for Bordeauxstylereds since the remarkable 1982vintage. It’s been a longtermideal.
The familyowned estate hasa 24year plan (19892012) toreorchestrate its vineyards,improving the material plantedand getting to know thedifferent blocks, and results areshowing.
Its flagship wines, Zara
Viognier ($29), Cape CrestSauvignon Blanc ($29), ElstonChardonnay ($35), BullnoseSyrah ($45), Awatea (cabernetmerlot $35) and Coleraine(cabernet merlot $73) arefragrant, textural withexemplary fruit and impeccablybalanced.
Having just returned from theUK, John Buck was optimisticabout the upsurge of interest inHawkes Bay wines there, withhighprofile wine Britishcommentators such as StephenSpurrier, Neal Martin (one ofRobert Parker’s writers) andHugh Johnson giving positivereviews.
Since Neal Martin listed TeMata as one of New Zealand’stop five wineries in the seventhedition of Robert Parker’s WineBuyer’s Guide last October,the winery has received ordersfrom people and places allover the world.www.temata.co.nz
Tasty and convenientONE of the bettertastingbrands of convenience foodsI’ve tried recently are theEssential Cuisine pestos andchilled jus. The new olive pestois piquant, with olives,anchovies, capers andparmesan, but there’s alsobasil, sundried tomato and anAsian one with coriander and
chilli. I find hundreds of uses forpestos in the kitchen, from aquick stir through pasta or riceto create a meal out of virtuallynothing, to adding flavour tosandwiches, pizzas, nibbles,quiches, salads and vegetables.There are also chilled stocksand lamb jus and beef jus, areduction of caramelisedvegetables, stock and wine,useful for serving as a sauce.
However, a slosh of wine in thepan in which you have cookedthe meat, stirred around to mopup the tasty brownings, thensimmered until reduced, isquick and easy — and cheaperif you have leftover wine. Analternative to wine is the wateryou have cooked vegetables in.Essential Cuisine is producedby Cerebos Greggs.www.essentialcuisine.co.nz
Otago Daily Times • Wednesday, March 18, 2009 FRESH 23