Overhand Knot - Rope/WebbingWebbing Overhand Loop on a Bight
Water KnotOverhand Bight with Webbing
Figure 8 on a BightFigure 8 Follow Through
Figure 8 Stopper KnotFigure 8 Bend
Double Fishermans
Triple Wrap Prusik Hitch
Triple wrapPrusik Hitch
Butterfly Knot
Square Knot
Seat Harness
Wrap 3 Pull 2High-Strength Tie-Off
Radium Release Hitch
Break Bar Rack
Low Angle Litter tie-inBelay Line System
Main Line Lower and Raise System
Main Line System from Lower to Raise
Main Line System from Raise to Lower
Reference 1Rope Construction
Reference 2Static Rope / Hardware
Reference 3 Dynamic Rope use / Knot Strength
Reference 4Anchor Angle / Load
Reference 5Anchor Angle / Load
Reference 6Force on Anchors / Low & High Angle Risk
Reference 7Pulling Force
Reference 8Rope Fiber Chart
Characteristics
Rope Fiber Comparison Chart
Resistance to Degradation
1=Best 6+Poorest Nylon PolyesterPoly-
propylenePoly-
ethylene Kevlar Spectra
Strength 3 4 5 6 2 1
Shock force absorption 1 5 3 4 6
Abrasion resistance 3 2 4 5 6
Flexing endurance 1 2 4 5 6
Wet strength (%) 85 98 100 105 100
2
1
3
100
Floats/sinks sinks sinks floats floats sinks floats
Specific gravity 1.14 1.38 0.91 0.95 1.44 0.97
Water absorbion (%) 6 <1 0 0 0 0
Low working temp (˚F) -70 -70 -20 -100 -100 -200
Elongation at break (%) 15-28 12-15 18-22 20-24 1.5-3.6 2.7-3.5
Sticky point (F˚) 250 275 200 150 350 150
Melting point (F˚) 480 500 330 285 800 297
Creep 4 2 5 6 1 3
Sunlight UV Good Excellent Poor Fair Fair Excellent
Acids Poor Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Excellent
Alkalis Good Poor Good Good Good Excellent
Oil and gas Good Good Good Good Good Good
Elect. conductivity resist. Poor Good Good Good Good Good
Source: Compiled from Cordage Institute Information and Wellington Puritan rope and fiber comparison
Reference 9Marin County Sheriff's Search and RescueTeam Technical Rescue Protocol
SYSTEMSHigh angle evolution:• lowering – use brake bar rack• hauling – use Z-rig (pig-rig can be an option where necessary, with appropriate experience)• belay – use tandem prusiks
Low angle evolution:• litter going down – use brake bar rack• litter going up – use single prusik
COMMANDS• for a typical high angle evolution (individual situations may requires variations)
once rigging is complete1) rescue team leader: stop, safety check2) edge tender/rescue team leader: rescuer ready?3) rescuer: ready?4) edge tender: on belay?5) belayer: belay on6) edge tender: ready to lower?7) lower (station): ready8) edge tender: lower away slowly9) lower: lowering10) rescuer: stop, reached subject11) edge tender: stop12) edge tender: lock lower13) lower: lower locked14) edge tender: lock belay15) belayer: belay locked16) edge tender: rescuer ready?17) rescuer: ready18) edge tender: on belay?19) belayer: belay on20) edge tender: ready to haul?21) closest hauler: ready22) edge tender: tension haul line23) edge tender: release prusik24) prusik tender: prusik released25) edge tender: haul away slowly26) closest hauler: hauling27) edge tender: stop28) edge tender: set prusik29) prusik tender: prusik set30) edge tender: resetting31) edge tender: slack haul line slowly32) edge tender: take a bight33) repeat steps 16-2634) edge tender: rescuer(s) and subject safe (past dead line)35) rescuer: off belay36) belayer: belay off
ADDITIONAL COMMANDS:• anyone at anytime: stop (+why stop) -everyone holds position, no rope movement -after a ‘stop’ and the situation is resolved, return to step 2• anyone at anytime: rock (refers to anything falling over the edge/from above) -those below hold head level so their helmets protect them; DO NOT LOOK UP• edge tender always relays commands between rescuer and rope team when direct communication between the two is not possible• slack: feed out rope (e.g. slack haul line, slack belay, tension lower)• tension: pull on rope (e.g. tension haul line, tension belay, tension lower)• rope: rope coil thrown (e.g. over a cliff edge)• dead line: only those who are anchored go beyond this point
Reference of Illistrations and InformationRecommended Reading
On Rope North American Vertical Rope Techniquesby Bruce Smith and Allen PadgettIllustrations by Ron Buffington
Alpine Operationsby Mark V. Lonsdale
Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Editionby The Mountaineersedited by Don Graydon and Kurt Hanson
Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systemsby Michael G. Brown
Rope Rescue Manualby James A. Frank and Jerrold B. Smith
The Handbook of Knotsby Des Pawson
Technical Rescue Riggers Guideby Rick Lipke
Rope Rescue Manual CMC Field Guide 3rd Editionby CMC
The Complete Guide to Rope Technequesby Nigel Shepherd