e
*
CONTENTS
Page
Glossary of Sewing Terms 1A
Glossary of Sewing Machine Features 18
Machine Identification 2
Accessories 3
Detaching Extension Table 4
Connecting Foot Control 5
Changing Presser Foot 6
Changing Needle 7
Bobbin Winding 8, 9, 10
Inserting Bobbin 11
Adju sting Lower Tension 12
Upper Threading 13
Drawing Up Lower Thread 14
Adjusting Pressure on Fabric 15
Adjusting Upper & Lower Tensions 16
Fabric, Needle & Thread Table 17
Setting the Stitch Length 18
Presser Foot Lifter 19
Cloth Guide 20
Basting 21
Staystitching 21
Zigzag Stitching 22
Edge Finishing 23Interfacing Darts 23
Bartack 23
Shell Stitch Edging 23
Satin Stitch 23
Stretch Stitching 24
Rick Rack Stretch Stitch 25Topstitching 26
Seaming Knits 27Gathering Over Cord 27Lace Applications 27
Making Buttonholes 28, 29
Cutting Buttonholes 30
Corded Buttonholes 30Sewing on Buttons 31
Blind Hem Stitch 32
Zipper Sewing 33Mending/Patching 34
Mending a Rip 34
Darning 35
Lapped Seam Sewing 36Applique Work 37Embroidery 38Maintenance/Cleaning 39Oiling 40
Trouble Chart 41,42Changing Light Bulb 42
1. GLOSSARY OF SEWING TERMS
APPLIQUE Applying a material with a specific design
onto another material by using a straight
Or zg zag stitch.
BASTING To sew with a temporary stitch that can be
removed with ease. This i. possibl, by
using the longest straight stitch, setting
your top tension on “0” bnd sewing a
in, of stitches. The top stitch will be
loose and th, bottom ttltch tight; this
allows you to be able to remove the lower
thread by pullIng. It may be necessary
to cut the lower thread at different points
for easier removal.
BLIND HEM A variation of the zig zag stitch used to
finish a Item where you can control the
holding stitch.
BUTTONHOLE A means of strengthening the sides of a
hole in cloth by a zig zag stitch to hold
a button.
COUCHING To fasten down another material, like a
nbbon lace, with a fine zig zag stitch.
DARNING A method of repairIng a rip or tear by
stitching over the flew.
EMBROIDERY To decorate with stitching, using either a
straight or zig zag stitch.
FACING The addItion of another piece of material
to increase the body or edge of material.
GATHERING Forming a zig zag stitch over cord, elastic,
or any separate material.
Another term for shining.
A fold, sewn down en edge of cloth.
Using a straight stitch for tracery or zig zag
stitching to form a design.
The use of a zig zag sthrji to finish a seam
or edge of cloth, or to prevent the revelling
of a loos, weave cloth.
A triple stretch pattern used to finish seams
or stretch buttonholes.
Same as darning but covering the hole
with a piece of cloth.
QUILTING Joining several cloths together to form a
bulk cover for beds, furniture or clothing.
RICK RACK A triple stretch pattern using a basic zig zag
to give a RiCk RACK effect.
SATIN STITCH A solid line of zig zag stitching formed by
zig zag stitch sewn very close tcgetlter,
SEAM A line formed when sewing two peces of
material together.
SHELL TUCK The use of the zig zag or variation of
the zig zag stitch to give a shell effect
to the edge of material.
SlURRING To gather cloth by drawing two or more
thread* together.
STRAIGHT A forward Or reverse single line of sewing
STITCH which tidy vary from 6 to 8 stitches
per inch to ‘0’ stitches.
STRETCH A combination of stitches formed by a
STITCH forward and bedtward motion which atows
the stitches to flex and not break, used
on stretch materials, double knits, tricot.
lingerie, arc.
TACKING A series of stitches to lock thread.
TAPERING A tn. of zig zag sewing varying from
narrow toe wide range.
THREAD SHANK A space composed of thread between the
button and cloth to engage button to
buttonhole on bulky material.
TOPSTITCHING A line or series of lines of straight or zig
zag sewing which enhances a bonder givingthe stitching a raised affect.
A term used for stretch patterns, a pattern
formed by a forward, sideward and back
ward combination of stitches.
ZIG ZAG A term which describes the side to side
motion of lire needle which creates width
to straight sewing.
HEM
MONO.GRAMMING
OVERCASTING
OVERLOCKISTRETCHI
PATCHING
TRIPLESTRETCH
—1A—
2. GLOSSARY OF SEWING MACHINE FEATURES
ACCESSORY For storage of estra feet, neadles, bobbins
BOXJTRAY and acceseorlee. Also used 55 estensron
of arm for a larger work strrface.
LOWER TEN. Balances upper and tower tension threads.
SION SPRING
BOBBIN To adust the tension of bobbin case.
TENSION SCREW
BOBBIN For winding bobbin with thread.
WIND#iG SPINDLE
BOBBIN For automatically stopping bobbin at full
WINDING STOP capacity.
FACE COVER opan for changing the bulb provklea
easy accela to needle, and presser bar
asa.cnbly for oIling.
FEED DOG For feeding materiel through machine.
FOOT For activating power to the machine,
CONTROL amount of preeaur. exerted on the foot
pedal corrtrola th, speed: attached wirea
plug into machine end well socket.
HANDWH EEL For tumnetg mechanism by hand to bring
needle and take up to high poertion. This
wheel turns toward operator.
NEEDLES Used to form a todr stitch on your machine.
variations are many; example: sharp, ball,
leather, etc.
For attaching the needle to in, lower
end of the needle bar.
For fastening needle into needle clamp.
For supporting material whan sewing. This
plate is merited for several hem sizes.
A receptacle to protect a sawing machine
whar not In use,
Controls the pressure exerted on various
materials being sewn. Can be varied by
control lever.
When towered onto material it holds the
mteml& against the feed dog.
For raising or towering the presser bar
and presser foot. When raised, the tension
is released and when lowered, the tension
is engaged.
PRESSER FOOT For tastenirtg presser foot end attachments
THUMB SCREW to tire presser bar.
REVERSE For changing from forward to reverseSEWING BUTTON direction, button must be held in for
continued reverse sewing.
SOCKET Located under the face cover to changethe light bulb.
SPOOL PIN On. for sewing and for winding bobbin.
IRETRACTABLE)
For changing the length of stitch in eitherforward and reverse direction,
For drawing up the top thread to forma tight stitch.
For cutting excess thread, located on theback and into the presser bar.
Holds thread taut for even winding.
Guides thread from spool pins to’ the
tension.
STITCHLENGTH DIAL
TAKE UPLEVER
THREADCUTTER
THREAD GUIDEFORBOBBIN WINDING
THREAD GUIDEFOR UPPERTHREADING
UPPER THREADTENSION
UPPER THREADTENSION DIAL
ZiGZAGWIDTH DIAL
Use for single or two thread sewing, helps
control thread lock.
Used to change upper tension
For setting width of zigzag stitching. Zigzagwidth may be varied from 0 width to 5mm
width.
NEEDLE CLAMP
NEEDLE CLAMPTHUMB SCREW
NEEDLE PLATE
PORTABLECOVER
PRESSER BAR
PRESSER FOOT
PRESSER FOOT
UFTER
— 1 B—
Machine identification
1. Spool pin2. Bobbin winder3. Bobbin winder stop4. Stop motion knob
5. Hand wheel6. Stitch lengtl knob7. Reverse stitch button
8. Connector9. Stitch pattern knob
10. Base plate11. Thread guide12. Thread take-up13. Thread guide14. Top tension15. Bed cover16. Extension plate guide
17. Handle18. Faceplate19. Set screw for face plate20. Presser foot lifter21. Needle plate22. Feed dogs23. Needle clamp24 Needle25. Presser foot holder screw26. Presser foot27. Extension plate28. Top plate.
28 171
—
12‘ .3
473
1
614
7
9
15/6 10
18
20
yq
23242725
-2622
27
—2—
ACCESSORIES
Zigzag foot(on machine)
uttonoie foot
Button sewingfoot
Zipper foot
Bobbins(3 pcs.)
Ordinary needles 14
Oiler
Screw drivers
Accessories are stored in built-in
compartment at front of exten
sion table
—3—
BEFORE SEWING
\cLJ
Machine is stored in flat-bed style
which makes your work ea&er in
ordinary sewing.
Detaching Extension Table
Pick up and slide it off and the
machine is used as a free-arm
model.
Free-arm is convenient to sew or
embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs
of T-shirts, blouses, etc.
Do vice-versa of above steps to
attach extension table.
To open lid of accessory box, lift
it open, as illustrated.
—4--
Connecting Foot Controllerand Power Cord
Connect foot controller andpower cord CD
Before plugging in your machine,be sure that voltage is same asthat of your machine. (written ona plate at back of machine)
* Specifications vary from countryto country.
Always unplug machine whennot in use.
The more you press foot controller,the faster the machine runs.
WARNING:THE FOOT CONTROLLER, FOR WHICHATTACHED ON THE SEWINGMACHINE MODEL 221N, ISDESIGNATED FOR SEWING MACHINEMODEL 221N ONLY.FOR YOUR SAFETY, DO NOT APPLYTHIS FOOT CONTROLLER TO ANYSEWING MACHINE AND/ORAPPLIANCE OTHER THAN MODEL221N.
POLARIZED PLUGS CAUTION
This product is equipped with a polarized alternating current line plug(a plug having one blade wider than the other). This plug will fit intothe power outlet only one way. This is a safety feature. If you areunable to insert the plug fully into the outlet, try reversing the plug.If the plug should still fall to fit, contact an electrIcian to replace theobsolete outlet. Do not defeat the safety purpose of the polarizedplug.
Changing Foot
9
Raise presser foot ‘ifter D.
Set needle in the highest
position by turning handwheel
towards you .
Remove foot by loosening screw
with screwdriver.
Replace new foot and tighten
screw.
—6—
Changing Needle
Set needle in the highestposition by turning handwheeltowards you.
Loosen needle clamp screw andtake out needle.
With fiat face away from you,insert a new needle into grooveof needle bar.
Push needle until it reachesstopper ® and tighten needleclamp screw firmly.
Always use a straight needle witha sharp point.
Using defective or worn needlesnot only causes stitch skipping,breakage of needles or snappingof thread; it also can damagehook and needle plate.
straight shaft
__
l,rrIrrrf721r?Jf1 LJ
Proper needle
sharp point
I If f 11 I I I I IJ
—7—
Bobbin Winding -
Set needleposition bytowards you.
Open latchtake it out.
in the highestturning handwheel
of bobbin case and
Close latch of bobbin case andbobbin comes out easily.
Open shuttle cover.
—8—
Push back to fold handle.
Pull out spoolpin.
Put a spool on spoolpin.
Draw thread from spoolpin
through pretension device, following
numbers D
Wind thread clockwise aroundbobbin several times.Push bobbin on to spindle.
Holding handwheel with your lefthand disengage haridwheel byunscrewing stop motion knob.
—9—
Push bobbin to rightand press
down foot controller.
P.achine stops autornaticlly
when winding is full.
Push bobbin to left.
Take off bobbin from spindle
and cut thread.
touble —=
correction fjt j4’
Retighten stop motion knob.
If bobbin is wound unevenly
as shown, remove top cover and
loosen set-screw of the guide for
bobbin winding, by using screw
driver and adjust height.
—10—
Inserting Bobbin
Guide thread intO slot ® of
bobbin case.
Pulling thread to left, bring it
under tension spring then tO
delivery eye
Place bobbin in its case with
thread running in direCtiOfl of
arrow.
—11—
Adjusting Lower TensionTo test bobbin tension, hang andshake bobbin case as shown.
At proper tension bobbin casewill gradually drop a smallamount.
To adjust tension, turn adjustingscrew with small screwdriver.
Raise needle in the highestposition.
Leave end of thread of about 10cm (4”) from bobbin case.Take hold of latch and pushbobbin case into hook.Release latch when bobbin caseis fully inserted
—12—
UPPER THREADING 1. Turn the hand wheel toward
you to raise the take-up lever
to its highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the
spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the
top thread guides.
4. Down and between the tension
discs, from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the
check-spring and with a slight
tug into the hook.
6. Up and through the eye of take-
up level from right to left.
7. Lead thread down through the
thread guide at the bottom of
the threading slot, then, through
the needle bar thread guide from
the back.
8. Thread the needle FROM
FRONT TO BACK, drawing it
through about 3 or 4 inches.
Hold the end of the upper
thread loosely and turn the
hand wheel toward you until
the needle goes all the way
down and comes back up. A
thread loop will form over the
upper thread which then can be
pulled out straight. Place both
thread ends under presser foot
and draw toward the back of
the machine, leaving both
threads three or four inches
long.
—13—
Drawing Up Lower Thread
Hold end of upper thread withleft hand.
Turn handwheel slowly towardsyou until needle moves down andup again.
Pull upper thread slowly andlower thread will be brought upin a loop.
Pull out both threads to about 1 5cm (6’) and place them togetherunder presser foot on left
—14—
ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC
• GENERAL SEWING
Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on
very heavy arid bulky fabrics arid very stretchy
knit fabrics of medium and very light weight, the
center pin (B) of the pressure control be at its
lower position. For exceotioria) fabrics, refer to
below table. To reduce half the pressure, press
the outer ring (A> of the pressure control, then
press the center pin (B) down again to halfway
short.
FabricPressure on
fabric
Ordinary fabric of less elasticity:
Heavy and bulky fabrics Half
Medium weight fabrics Full
Light weight soft fabrics Full
Very stretchy fabrics and knits:
Heavy and bulky ones Full
Medium weight ones Half
Light weight and sheer ones Half
—15—
CONTROLS:ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONSSTRAIGHT STITCH: GREEN AREA
Always adjust the upper thread
tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is released when it is
raised. To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn tension
control to the right. To decrease,
turn to the left. Before adjusting
the tension be sure that the
machine is threaded properly.
It is seldom required to adjustthe bobbin thread tension,however, when necessary to changebobbin thread tension, turn smallscrew on side of the bobbin caseclockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.
When both tensions are properlybalanced, a perfect stitch will beformed with both threads interlocking in fabric (A).When the upper tension is too tight,the bobbin thread is pulled up overthe upper thread which is lying flaton the fabric (B).When the upper tension is tooloose, the upper thread forms loopsover the bobbin thread lying flat onthe fabric (C).When the upper and bobbin threadtensions are balanced but fabric ispuckered in sewing direction onsheer fabrics, both tensions are tootight. Loosen both tensions evenly.
It is recommended to adjust thetension balance under mediumstitch length. In case of satinstitching for buttonholes and embroidery slightly loosen the upperthread tension.
ZIG ZAG TENSIONS:
tC)
Zig zag stitch requires less top tension so we recommend you turn your tension dial tored area for a smoother flat appearing pattern.
—16-—
Fabric ,Thread and Needle Table
THREAD NEEDLE
Cotton European U.SSize Point REMARKS
FABRIC European Mercerized Covered
Cotton CottonPolyester, 705 15x1 StyleSilk, Nylon
VERY SHEER; lace,Silk
Loosen up.
70 6D 65—70 9 Regular
Voile. Chiffon, NetNylon per tension
SHEER; Blouse Crepe, 50—70 60Silk 65—7O 9
Lawn. Organdy. Taffeta Nylon
LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe. 30 50 Silk 75—80 1 1 -
Wool. Brocade. Velvet
MEDIUM; Wool. Silk,
Linen. Velvatten. PIque, 30 50 Silk 80—90 11—14 -
Faille. Terrycloth
HEAVY; Denim, Duck. Heavy30 C.C.Poly. 100 16
SailclothDuty
EXTRA HEAVY; Heavy CC.Poly. 120 1930
Upholstery. Canvas. Duty
Awning
(KNITS)
Silk
LIGHT-WEIGHT; Tricot 50—70 80 70 9Light
Nylon Ball
Power net
MEDIUM-WEIGHT;Silk Light
Jersey, Double Knit, 30 50 Nylon 70—80 9—10 toMedium
Power NetC.C.Poly. Ball
HEAVY-WEIGHT; DoubleSilk Medium
30 50 Nylon 80—90 11—14 to Heavy
knit, Power Nat C.C PoIy. Ball
FAKE-FURS, VELOURS 30Heavy
Ball orCCPoiy. 90—100 14—16
DutySharp
[LEATHER
VINYLS FILMS 30 50 C.CPoly. 90 14 Wedge
LIGHT-TO-MEDIUM- 30 50 C.CPoly. 90—100 14—16 Wedge
WEIGHT
HEAVY LEATHER Heavy30 Duty
C.C.PoIy. 100—110 16—f B Wedge
[DECORATIVE TOUCHES]
TOP STITCHING Silk twist 100—110 16—18 Regular
MACHINE EMBROIDERY Size 50—70 65—80 9—11 Regular
—17--
STRAIGHT STITCH:
The normal stitch length for most fabricsis between 2-4 but the length chosenshould depend on the fabric artd area ofusage. Usually, heavier fabrics requirelonger stitches, and lighter weight fabricsrequire shorter stitches. For curved seamsand bias cut areas use a shorter stitchlength. Be sure to set the stitch widthcontrol at “o” line.
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch is regulated by the stitch length control dial. Near 0is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, But the control may be set at any spotbetween marking for a variety of lengths. Turn the control dial to the right tolengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch.
STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)
Figures on indicator 0 1 2 3 4 5
Approx. Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 15 10 7 6
SEWING IN REVERSEWhen you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end
of a seam, press in the push button as far as it will go. The machine will sewbackward as long as the button is held in.
—18-—
—19—
Place fabric under foot about 1
cm (0.4”) inside the edge.
Lower presser foot lifter.
Presser Foot Lifter
In order to obtain wider gap
when using very thick materials,
firmly push presser foot lifter up
as far as it will go.
To reinforce seam, sew back
wards to the edge of fabric by
pushing down reverse sewing
button.
Release button ‘and commence
forward sewing guiding fabric by
hand as it is fed.
Never pull material.
4’
Cloth Guide
Use cloth guide when sewing along seam of regular distancefrom edge of material.Set guide in hole on arm, at rightof needle plate, and adjustdistance.Run machine with edge of fabrictouching guide.Position cloth ‘guide at an angleto sew a curved seam.
Sew reverse stitches for reinforcement at end of seam.Draw fabric to left when sewingis finished.
Cut threads with thread cutter.behind presser bar.
-20—
B astingMachine basting is very useful for
joining seams for trial fittings, mark
ing construction guide lines, and
basting pleats and hems.
Use longest stitch possible, setting
stitch length at 5. Loosen tension on
upper thread. Choose thread color to
tcontrast with your fabric so it can be
easily seen.
Basting stitches can be removed
easily by clipping upper thread, then
pulling out lower thread.
Staystitching
Staystitching prevents stretching and
acts as a guideline for clipping and
joining curved edges. Staystitch any
edge that might stretch during handl
ing before the final stitching.
Staystitch on a single layer of fabric,
always stitching in the direction of
the grain. Place stitches 1/8” away
from seamline in the seam allowance.
Use 12 stitches per inch for most
fabrics.
1I
—21—
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING
MvvAWvW
%4%WMW
/W\’W\
—22—
Be sure to use zig-zag foot.You can make any number of combinations by adjusting stitch width andstitch length. Both knobs can beturned while machine is running.However, if machine is not running,raise needle to its highest positionbefore adjusting stitch width knob.Tension on upper thread usuallyneeds to be loosened. The wider thezig-zag, the looser the tension.Stitches should lie flat against thefabric without causing any puckering.Zig-zag stitching has many uses:
Seam FinishingUse to “overcast” seam edges infabrics that fray to prevent ravelingduring wear and washing. Press seamopen and stitch each side separately.Adjust stitch width and length to suitfabric. Choose setting that will givethe most open stitch and still securethe fabric edges. Avoid harsh, over-stitched edges which become stiffand show a ridge on right side offabric.
Use one of two methods:• Trim seam edge evenly and place
stitching over raw edge of fabric- -
best for firmly woven fabrics.
• Place stitching near edge of seamallowance and trim away excessfabric after stitching . - best forfabrics which fray easily, lightweight fabrics, and knits whichroll.
1
Machine Setting
Edge FinishingUse to finish hem edges and facingedges to prevent raveling and to eliminate bulk of turned-in edges. Forfirm fabrics, stitch along edge of hemor facing. For loosely woven or softfabrics, stitch about W’ from edge,then ‘trim fabric close to stitching.
Interfacing DartsUse to reduce bulk when stitching adart in interfacing fabrics. Cut downcenter of dart to point; overlap cutedges matching dart lines. Zig-zagalong dart line from wide end of dartthrough point. Trim both raw edgesclose to stitching.
B artacksUse to reinforce points of strain suchas corners of pockets, belt loops,zipper openings, and lingerie straps.Set stitch width knàb at mediumzig-zag or wider and stitch length at5.
Use for a decorative edge treatmentfor lingerie and soft fabrics. Foldunder edge of fabric. Set stitchlength between 4 and 5. Tightenupper thread tension so stitches willpull in fabric, forming a scallopededge. Place edge of folded fabricunder presser foot from the right,so folded edge is on the left. Stitchalong folded edge.
Satin StitchClosely spaced zig-zag stitches whichform a smooth, satin-like surface arecalled satin stitches. Use for monograms, appliques and embroidery.Set stitch length knob between 0and 1. If too close to 0 machine willnot feed but.will continue sewingin one spot. Loosen tension of upperthread. The wider the stitch, thelooser the tension.
I
4.. 1sIieu Stitch Edging
1—23—
STRETCH STITCHING
When sewing knitted or stretch fabrics, use a stretch stitch which allows the
seam to stretch along with the fabric, without breaking the thread. Select
polyester or cotton covered polyester thread which has an extra amount of
give and is designed for knits and stretch fabrics. Use a ball point needle,
especially on lightweight knits.
In woven fabrics, use for stitching
seams that receive a lot of strain
when worn such as side seams, crotch
seams, and armholes in sportswear
and in children’s clothes.
Also use for topstitching when you
want a heavier row of stitching with
out using buttonhole twist thread.
Guide fabric gently, allowing
machine to make the back-and-forth
stitches that give stretch to the seam,
IRI
Machine Setting- IIIUI
STRETCH STRAIGHT STITCH
Stretch straight stitch is a triple lock
stitch. combining stretchability and
strength.
Use for stitching regular seams in
knits and stretch fabrics.
—24—
RICKRACK STRETCH STITCHMachine Setting
Foot Pattern Dial Stitch Length Tension
Rickrack stitch is a triple zig-zag thatresembles rickrack trim. It is reversible, looking the same on both theright and wrong sides.
It can be used as a heavy.duty allpurpose strtch stitch. Each zig-zagstitch consists of three threads orstitches, giving strength and perrhanence. Width of the zigzag can beadjusted from narrow to wide.
Use to overcast edges of seams, facingsand hems to prevent raveling and tokeep light weight knits from rolling.Also suitable for overcasting heavyfabrics such as woolens and terrycloth.
Use for attaching elastic. Mark elasticand garment waistline in fourths.Place elastic over fabric and pintogether at the markings. Take a fewstitches to anchor elastic to fabric,then stretch elastic between pins asyou sew.
Can also be used for decorative stitching.
I I I
4
—25—
DECORATIVE STITCHING
A great variety of decorative stitching can be created by using.ore or more
rows of a stitch pattern or by combining different stitches—top stitching,
decorative borders and trims, monograms, appliques and embroidery.
TOP STITCHING
You can accent lines of a garment
with one or more rows of topstitching
along collars, lapels, yokes, facing
edges, pockets, cuffs, seams and
hems.• Use straight stitch for a more
tailored look, sewing with button.
hole twist for added emphasis.
ii• Use stretch straight stitch for a
heavier row of stitching even with
regularthread
• Use satin stitch for wider row of
stitching, especially for borders.
Or use one of the stitches on follow.
ing page, varying the width for
special effects.
—26--
Seaming Knits
The narrow zigzag can be used
in seams of firm knits for
added strength. After sewing,
open seam and press flat.
Tinyzigzag stitches can hardly
be seen and the seam will give
when stretched.
G athering Over CordOrdinary gathering with abasting stitch often breaks
while pulling in fullness. Asmall zigzag across a cord such
as o-ochet thread or carpet
thread, gives a much strongercord for gathering fullness
into fabrics. Once the gathershave been stitched in place,the cord can be pulled out inorder to eliminate bulk.
Lace ApplicationsAttaching laces or trims adds aspecial touch to lingerie,
dresses, or linens. Pin or bastelaces in place easing or mitering
corners where necessary. Astraight edge lace or braid has aconvenient line to follow whensewing. When using a scallopededged lace follow the design ofthe lace for an almost invisible
application.
—27—
MAKING BUTTONHOLES
Determine Length
Determine Width
Determine width according to
diameter of button, its thickness,
and kind of material.
Attach buttonhole foot.
Completely push back sliding part
® of buttonhole foot.
Place material under foot so that
marking of buttonhole passes
through center of foot and arrow
® of foot indicates beginning line
of marking.
—28—
Measure diameter and thickness
of button and add 0.3cm (1/8”)
for bar tacks.
Mark buttonhole size on material.
marking
_____
3cm(i/8”J
1 diameterlength of abuttonhole
___________________I
thickness
I.
MAKING BUTTONHOLES
First, mark the beginning and end ofthe buttonhole on fabric with a bastingline or tailor’s chalk. Make one on scrapfabric (following directions below) to besure machine adjustments are correct
1. Replace presser foot with buttonholefoot which is grooved to preventpiling up of thread. Push slidingbuttonhole foot guide to the rear.
2. Set stitch width at 2 and stitchlength knob near 0.
3. Lower needle carefully into the markon fabric indicating the beginning ofbuttonhole. Stitch to the mark forthe end of the button hole, (Illustrationl),Stop machine with needle infabric at right side of stitching.
4. Lift the presser foot and using theneedle as a pivot, turn the fabricaround end for end.
5. Lower presser foot and turn handwheel just enough to raise needle outof fabric. Push sliding buttonholefoot guide to the rear. Take five orsix stitches to form bar tack (Illustration 2).
6. Turn stitch length dial to “0” position and set zigzag width to 5. Takefive or six stitches to form bar tack(Illustration 2).
7. Raise needle out of fabric, resetstitch width at 2 and return sttchlength near “0”.
6. Stitch second side of buttonhole,(Illustration 3)
9. Stitch bar tack by repeating step 6above (Illustration 4)
10. Cut the buttonhole opening with theseam ripper, being careful not to cutthe stitching.If you plan to make buttonholes onsheer or soft material, place a stabili.zer or paper, under fabric which canbe torn away after stitching.
igflS sf ft:
P p... p p Tj1 7 2—
—29—
Cutting Buttonholes
Stick a needle through bar tacks
to prevent over-cutting.
Cut buttonhole along centre with
buttonhole cutter.
Corded Buttonholes
For stretch fabrics such as knits,
a corded buttonhole is effective
to keep finished buttonhole
in shape.
Hook filler cord on top spur and
lead ends of cord under foot, pull
taut, and hook them to bottom
notches as shown.
Proceed with stitching as for
regular buttonholes.
When buttonhole is completed,
pull filler cord ends so that loop
on the other end disappears into
buttonhole stitching.
Thread ends of cord to reverse
side and tie, or cut both ends of
cord.
—30—
SEWING ON BUTTONSSet stitch length at “0”
Position a button and materialunder foot. When needle comesto left side of stitch, lower foot.Raise needle and adjust zigzagwidth so that needle comes toright hole of button.
Run machine at medium speedand sew 5-6 zigzag stitches.
Stop machine when needle is inupper position.® Set zigzag width control to 0and sew 3-4 stitches to preventunstitching.OR® Draw out work and cut offthreads.Draw thread ends through towrong side and tie a knot.
—31—
BLIND HEM STITCH STEP 1
The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem
finish that is almost invisible on garments,
drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with
straight or slightly curved hems. With a little
practice it will be a very quick and easy hem
application and the hem wilt never need re
pairing.Procedure:
(1) Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner,
such as overcast, 114 inch stitched under
pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1) STEP 2
(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2
inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Step 2)
(3) Fold hem back toward right side of fabric
leaving about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)
(4) Guide the fold of the fabric into the center
cut of the presser foot so that the zigzag bite
of the stitch comes just slightly to the left to
the center cut of the presser foot and the
zigzag wide bite should catch just barely
into the fold of the fabric at the left.
(5) When stitching is completed, remove fabric
from machine and turn to right side. Press
cnmpleted hem.STEP
When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine
basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At
an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the
seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling or,
basing thread. Press with steam, then apply hem
tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2” from taped edge,
then continue into step 3.
STEP 5
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ZIPPER SEWING
C
By using special zipper foot withsliding adjuster, zipper sewingcan be easily done withoutturning fabric.
Loosen screw ® and set foot sothat needle comes into position
®. Tighten screw.
Sew right side of zipper guidingfabric carefully so that right sideteeth of tipper are parallel withleft edge of foot.
Re-set foot so that needle comesinto position ©.Sew left side of zipper in thesame way.
—33—
MENDtNG
Patching
vvvvvvv9
iA A A A A A A A Ais siii ls,s huh
W_V V V V V V V A V
Place the patch over the worn
part.Sew along the edge of the patch
on the right side. Trim away the
worn part close to the seam on
back side.A A A A A A A A A A
V A A A
V V V V V V V V V V V V V
Mending a Rip
Set machine in the same way
as for patching.
Sew the edges of tear together
first.Then sew two more seams on
either side.
A piece of gauze can be placed
underneath to reinforce the rip.
—34—
Darning
Set stitch length at ‘O’
_q_:4_(‘t r-Thfr1
_4
Stretch fabric over the hoop ®or sew with free armcTh accordingto the part you are going to darn.
ISew over the worn-out part withcoseIy spaced. stiches guidingmaterial back and forth by hand.
By making turning points blunt,the darned part becomes softerand more flexible
—35---
LAPPED SEAM SEWING
P’ace one piece of fabric over
another according to the width
of stitch size.
® For non-fray fabrics.( For easy to fray fabrics.
Sew over fo’ded area from right
side.
—36—
APPLIQUE WORK
Draw design on material to beused as an applique and cut it out.Place cut-out on base materialand baste it.
Sew around outline with zigzagstitch adjusting stitch length andwidth according to shape andsize of cut-out and type of basematerial.
To change direction at corners.or to sew very small circles, stopmachine, positioning needle justaway from edge of cut-out, liftpresser foot and turn material.Lower presser foot and continuesewing.
Sew a few stitches at end withzigzag width at 0.This is to prevent unstitching.
—37—
Needie Thread
No. 9 120—100
No. 11 100—SO
No. 14 60—50
EMBROIDERY
Set stitch length at “0”
Remove foot, and holder screw.
To avoid lower thread being
pulled up, reduce upper thread
tension.
For good embroidery, it is
important to use correct needles
and thread.
Use thin embroidery silk for
upper thread and a thinner silk
of same kind and color for
lower thread.Trace your design on material
and center it in embroidery hoop.
Make sure material is taut.
Pull out lower thread by turning
hand wheel towards you while
holding upper thread lightly.
Lower presser foot lifter.
Hold both threads and start
sewing along outline of design
with satin stitch.
Continue sewing guiding hoop
by hand.
To finish filling, sew several
stitches with zigzag width at 0.
Lay typewriting paper underneath
when embroidering sheer fabric.
—38—
MAINTENANCE
Your machine requires regularcIeanng and oiling for satisfactory sewing performance.A machine which is used for afew hours a day needs to becleaned and oiled once a month.
Cleaning
Remove foot and needle.Remove needle plate.
Brush off all dust and lint on feeddog with cleaning brush.
Turn latches outwards.
Remove hook race cover.Remove hook. Clean hook racewith a cleaning brush and a softcloth.
—39--
Oiling
Use oil manufactured specially
for sewing machine use. Other
oils will eventually cause
mechanism to jam.:4
Apply one drop of oil to part of :
hook where friction occurs.
I
Open face cover and apply oil in
the same way.
Be careful not to apply too much
oil or it may stain your material
and cause some sewing difficulty.
After oiling, run machine for 1-2 11minutes to allow oil to penetrate
to every part.
Remove top by loosening
Apply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.
TROUBLE CHART
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Breaking lower Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin P.10, R9
thread or not drawn up Correctly
Lower thread tension too tight P.12
Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside Remove lintthe tension spring and fluff with a
cleaning brush
Skipping stitches Needle not fully inserted P. 7
Needle bent P. 7
Size or type of needle and thread not P 17suitable for the material
Incorrect upper threading P. 13
Too nuch oil on the hook P. 40
Irregular stitches Incorrect size of needle for the material P. 17
Upper thread tension too loose P. 13
Incorrect lower tension P 1 2
The material not Pattern selection dial not set correctly P. 18, 22fed correctly
Lint stuck on the feed dog P. 39
—41--
Oiling
Use oil manufactured specially
for sewing machine use. Other
oils will eventually cause
mechanism to jam.
Apply one drop of oil to part of
hook where friction occurs.
Open face cover and apply oil in
the same way.
Be careful not to apply too much
oil or it may stain your material
and cause some sewing difficulty.
After oiling, run machine for 1-2
minutes to allow oil to penetrate
to every part.
Remove top cover by loosening
screws ® and ® with large
screwdriver.
Apply one drop of oil to ‘ubricating points indicated by arrows.
—40—